The disadvantages of high beds are labor and financial costs for their device, and it may also be necessary to buy nutritious soil. If you use wood or slate for the walls of the beds, then the construction cost will be very small. But if you want to make brick or concrete frames, then the costs will be an order of magnitude higher. Also the arrangement of paths between the beds. You can just fill them with small pebbles, or you can lay them out with bricks, stones, pour cement. Complex and expensive options immediately increase the cost of a vegetable garden in high beds.

Diy high beds device

Self-production will not only allow you to significantly save money compared to options from stores, but also make a bed of the required shape and size. You can, by accurately defining the configuration, use the maximum area and use every suitable corner. But we must not forget that for most crops, at least 5 hours of intense lighting is needed.

High beds are very convenient to handle

The material for creating structures can be:

1. Wood.
2. Plastic.
3. Slate.
4. Brick.
5. Concrete, etc.

Wood, plastic or slate will not only require less financial investment, but also make the beds collapsible. It makes sense to equip monolithic concrete frames, walls made of brick or stone only if there is confidence that they will not need to be dismantled. However, their appearance so interesting that it is capable of decorating any site by itself. And even fruiting or flowering agricultural plants in such beds will give the garden an indescribable charm.

Council. There are many types of plastic, some of them are not suitable for use in the garden, because able to release toxins. You need to try to protect yourself from this, the ideal option would be a certificate from the manufacturer.

Preparing the site for the placement of high beds is very simple, you just need to dig up the place, removing perennials, stones, driftwood. The process of assembling the frame is different depending on the material. When installing the structure, you need to make sure that all corners are even, the walls are at the same level. It is better to install the installation in the fall, so that all layers of the soil mixture are well packed and natural processes of overheating begin. If it is necessary to mount in spring, you need to do it at least a month before planting vegetables. All this time, abundant watering is required to compact the layers of the substrate.

The efforts and funds spent on the arrangement of bulk beds will very quickly pay off. This type of farming allows you to completely eliminate digging, facilitate the care of crops and harvesting. And the quantity and quality of the fruit will pleasantly surprise you.

How to make tall beds in the garden: video

High beds: photo

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The dacha is not just a plot for growing and harvesting. For many, this is a favorite place to relax and implement ideas for. Often the way to disembark vegetable crops are relegated to the background, but this is not correct, because the appearance of the entire landscape largely depends on their interesting location and attractive appearance. This article describes how it is most simple to make beds for the lazy in the country. Photos and descriptions of the most good ideas, as well as ways to implement them should help make your site comfortable and well-groomed.

Tall structures made of boards for planting crops will be the highlight of any site

A garden bed is most often a fenced piece of land intended for growing a certain type of plant.

• Slate.

Usually, this material is used only if it is available (for example, it remained after roof repairs).

• Plastic.

The main feature of plastic is that it can be given any shape, so it is great for round or other curved fit options. In addition, it is not susceptible to precipitation and low temperatures, so it will last a long time without losing its original attractiveness.

An expensive and durable option.

• A natural stone.

It makes the most spectacular sides that will last for many years. Unlike bricks, stones have irregular shape, which will allow you to design the landscape in an eco-style. Disadvantages of stone sides: high cost and gradual withdrawal into the soil under its own weight, therefore, such a side must be periodically checked and corrected.

A high-quality DIY made from scrap materials will serve for many years, but for good harvest its correct location is also necessary.

Placing beds in the garden: how to arrange, photos, tips

From the correct location of the beds on summer cottage the quality and quantity of the crop depends, so this issue should be given special attention... First of all, you need to know the following:

• The beds located on the cardinal points (from north to south) - good decision only for low plants on a level horizontal area.
• If the parcel has a slope that cannot be leveled, the ridges must be across it regardless of orientation.
• It is desirable to make the rows of one plant the same size. This will make it easier to calculate the amount of fertilizer, the degree of watering and planting.
• If the site has slopes in different directions, choose the south side (the harvest will ripen faster on it).

In small areas, there is often a lack of free horizontal planting areas. If this is your case, try one of the following ideas:

• Create vertical structures.

• Use unused items for planting plants (for example, a wheelbarrow, a barrel, and so on).
• Attach the bed to the recreation area.

How best to make the beds in the garden - options

The beds are classified by design features, while distinguishing the following types:

• Traditional (flush with the rest of the site, dimensions make it easy to reach the center from either side (right or left)).

• High (30-40 cm above ground level, contribute to the fastest ripening of the crop).

• Deep (during the device, a trench 20-30 cm deep is dug, due to which the earth most often does not freeze, and the landing can be carried out earlier).
• Narrow (for example, according to the Mittlider method, detailed in the next chapter).
• Vertical ( perfect solution for small areas, however, not all plants can be planted in this way).

Related article:

How to make beds of boards with your own hands

Now let's look at how to properly make the beds in the garden of wood. This material is the most common when arranging beds. Plank constructions have the following advantages:

• Reliability.

The tree perfectly retains moisture within the row, and also does not deform for a long time.

• Low cost.

This material often remains after construction. If it was not there, you can buy boards at a fairly low price.

• Ease of installation.

The main thing is high-quality wood processing, if this is not done, insects and moisture will quickly destroy the structure.

• Attractive appearance.

Wood is an ideal material for eco-style beds.

The only drawback of board structures is fragility (in comparison, for example, with plastic or brick). However, the ability to quickly and with least cost change them more than it covers.

How to make a bed of boards with your own hands: photos, sizes, installation sequence

If you decide to make a wooden structure, the first step is to choose the type of wood:

• Oak or ash – hard rocks, the boards of which are perfect in this case, but their price is quite high.
• Pine - cheap, but short-lived. It is possible to extend the life of such a fence with the help of periodic chemical treatment.
• Cedar or larch - the best price-quality ratio. Due to the presence of resin in the data conifers, there is no need to process them.
• Acacia - also great option for the device of beds.

What are the optimal sizes beds of boards? First, you need to decide on the height of the structure, which depends on the following factors:

• Features of the planted culture.

Some vegetables require a certain depth (for example, for potatoes, the planting depth should be at least 40 cm).

• Soil fertility.

If the soil is fertile, the sides can be made 10-15 cm high. If the filling of fertile soil is required - 30 cm or more.

• Garden type.

For example, for warm ones, a height of 50 cm is characteristic.

The length of the row can be any, but it is not recommended to make it too long for two reasons: it will be an obstacle to moving around the garden, the wooden structure will have to be additionally strengthened with oblique or vertical pegs.

Most important parameter when arranging beds in the country, their width, since ease of use largely depends on it. If you make it too wide, it will be problematic to reach its center. Therefore, the maximum width is considered to be 100 cm.

In most cases (if the planned structure is not too complex) it will not be difficult to make a bed of boards with your own hands. The size of the boards depends on the size of the future bed, however, if you only have material of insufficient length at your disposal, it doesn't matter, several boards can always be spliced \u200b\u200balong the length.

Procedure for constructing a wooden structure:

• Site preparation.

At this stage, it is necessary to level and dig in the site for the structure.

For a rectangular structure, it is necessary to connect 4 boards and attach support bars to them, which should be 20-30 cm longer than the future sides. They need to be slightly sharpened with an ax from the free side (to simplify entry into the ground).

• Installation of the structure.

We hammer the structure into the ground, while it is important to use a level to achieve maximum evenness of the structure.

• Surface treatment of boards.

First of all, the surface is primed (to protect against moisture and pests), then covered oil paint (optional, you can leave the color of the tree).

• Backfill.

The composition depends on the type of construction and the chosen culture. But in all cases drainage should be the first layer.

Most often, they try to plant only one culture on one site, but sometimes they practice joint landing vegetables in the garden. However, it is worth remembering that not all plants get along with each other. Therefore, the following is a table of compatibility of vegetables in the beds.

Related article:

Interesting ideas come to mind of many summer residents and owners of private houses. In the article, we will consider original photo examples and several instructions for creating such beauty.

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: examples, photos

More and more summer residents are interested in obtaining not only a large harvest, but also an environmentally friendly one. Therefore, the question arises, how to achieve a high-quality harvest without resorting to chemicals?

Perfect solution - mixed fit vegetables. After all, some cultures have a beneficial effect on each other. However, in this issue you should be extremely careful, since not all plants love any kind of neighborhood at all.

Thanks to the science of "allelopathy", a table of the neighborhood of vegetables in the garden has been compiled, using which, you can significantly reduce the use chemicals for pest control and fertilization.

Neighborhood vegetables in the beds - compatibility table

The table below reflects the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Planting using this information will provide a quality crop with minimum investment funds.

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: examples with photos and tips

Each friendly or unfriendly neighborhood of vegetables in the garden has its own rationale. For example, strawberries and onions are great neighbors. The onion protects the berry from rot and disease, and if parsley is also planted nearby, it eliminates the appearance of slugs.

Onions are also an excellent companion for most crops in the country, as they protect them from pests. The most interesting neighborhood of this plant is with carrots. Both crops have their own pest - onion and carrot fly, and the first one does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and the second one - onions.

Garlic is great for pest control, so it is a good companion for most crops. However, it is not recommended to plant it next to plants of the legume family, since the latter are leaders in the fence nutrients, and garlic needs a lot of them.

Growing crops together in the garden can be detrimental to other vegetables as well. For example, tomatoes cannot be planted with cucumbers, as they require varying degrees glaze. Thus, the proximity of these two crops will create difficulties in processing (there will be a need for spot irrigation, which will take much more time and effort).

In addition to the properties of plants, it is necessary to pay attention to their size. For example, when alternating between cabbage and radish, the second crop will not receive enough sunlight, which will significantly deteriorate the quality of the crop.

So, you have developed an ideal layout for all vegetables in your summer cottage, but every year the harvest is getting worse. What to do? It is necessary to ensure crop rotation.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds

Crop rotation is the organization of crop rotation on the bed. Ideally, this process should be continuous and annual. However, in real conditions, achieving this is very problematic for the following reasons:

• There is not enough information about soil contamination and the presence of pests in it.
• No time for accurate calculations ideal option landing.

Why is crop rotation a must for a good harvest? Every culture has unique features in the matter of obtaining nutrients. Someone looks for them in the surface layers of the soil (for example, a cucumber), someone, in search of water, lowers the roots several meters deep (for example, a watermelon). In addition, for the growth of each plant, (in to a greater extent) different elements (for example, for tomato - phosphorus, for cabbage - nitrogen).

Now imagine that from year to year a certain layer of soil is depleted, and the content of precisely those substances that are necessary for a given culture decreases.To make it easier for you to decide how to alternate vegetables, below is a table of crop rotation of vegetables in the garden.

Important! The main thing is that the culture does not return to its former place for 3-4 years. During this time, the soil will have time to recover and accumulate required amount nutrients.

How to make a garden for cucumbers in the open field: photos, methods

Cucumbers are a rather capricious crop that requires special care. Many believe that it can only be planted seedling method, however, thanks to many years of selection, there are currently several varieties that can be planted immediately in open ground.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the beds for cucumbers in the spring:

• Correctly choose the direction of the rows - from north to south.
• Fertilize the soil ( best solutions - cow dung or chicken droppings, if they are not there, any mineral fertilizer will do).
• Put the sides (preferably at least 25 cm).

The main secrets of growing cucumbers in open ground - choosing the right planting time (from May to mid-June, depending on the region) and choosing the right variety.

How to make cucumber beds - general features

In the case when seedlings are not used, grow a quality crop in the usual way (on standard beds) will not work. You must use one of the other methods of growing cucumbers outdoors:

• The device of a bed with a bookmark.
• Installation of a warm bed (including a raised structure).

These methods are non-standard, therefore they are described below in detail to prevent errors during the arrangement.

How to make cucumber beds with a bookmark in the garden

To arrange a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark, you need to dig a trench 30 cm deep and consistently fill it with the following layers:

No stagnation of water.

Warm beds for cucumbers in the open field

How to make a warm bed for cucumbers on the ground? To do this, you need to build a box (for example, from boards or bricks) and fill it with the following layers:

• Sand.
• Organic waste (leaves, bark, etc.).
• Straw.
• Fertilizer (manure works best).
• Earth and humus.

The main thing is to carefully tamp each layer, otherwise the soil will turn out to be too loose, and you should not expect a good harvest.

Advantages of warm cucumber beds:

• Lack of dirt from the beds due to the presence of sides.
• High productivity.
• Aesthetic appearance (you can make beautiful identical beds).

Raised beds for cucumbers in the open field

In an unfavorable climate, it is advisable to arrange raised (or high) beds with a height of 40-50 cm (for convenience, it can be made higher). In this case, the sequence of layers remains the same as in conventional warm constructions on the surface of the earth. Such designs have the following advantages:

• The soil warms up even faster, which means that the harvest will appear earlier.
• Convenience (no need to bend over to care for cucumbers).

  

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It would seem that something new can be invented to increase yields, because agriculture as a science has existed for more than one hundred years. During this time, many methods and technologies have been tested. Some of them are more successful, some less, but the traditional approach to growing vegetables involves the formation of a bed in which the plants receive enough light and water.

Land work is always tiring, especially when the site is large. It must be prepared, sown, it requires daily care in summer. Plants are attacked by pests, diseases and weeds. The growing seedlings and the pouring fruits ask for additional feeding, and from time to time there is a desire to sow this whole vegetable garden with lawn grass or lay with paving slabs.

If this idea comes to you regularly, then it's time to think about how to make your work easier. No, it comes not about buying expensive cultivators, irrigation systems, electric soil cultivators and petrol-powered weed mowers.

A unique technology will help you to increase yields while significantly reducing labor costs - “ high beds". Its uniqueness is, first of all, in its simplicity.

A high bed is not formed. It is being built. A high bed is a fixed structure, so it is important to initially plan the site correctly. In order not to reinvent the wheel, it would be most logical to equip new beds in the place of the old, time-tested ones.

So what is a tall bed? Simply put, this is a box of arbitrary sizes, into which various components of the nutrient soil are poured in a certain order. The size of the bed should be such that it is convenient for you to work. Some gardeners build beds so high that they can not bend over at all during sowing, weeding and watering. The optimal height is 40 cm. The length of the beds is arbitrary, the width should provide free access to the plants. Usually it is 120-150 cm.

A high bed can be arranged directly on the surface of the earth, or it can be deepened. In any case, the design of a high bed should be strong and stable.

For the manufacture of a box, lumber with a thickness of at least 4 cm or round logs with a diameter of 8 cm. You can use a brick or other construction materialat hand. The inner walls are sheathed with a moisture insulating material - film or oilcloth. They lay on the bottom grid - it will protect against mice and moles. To strengthen the structure are required vertical postsso that the walls do not bend.

The height of the structure to be created is determined individually, the main thing is that it is comfortable to work while standing or even sitting. Bed width - no more than 130 cm, otherwise it will be difficult to water and care for the plants. The length is arbitrary, depending on your desire, the available areas and the amount of filling material.

When setting up a high bed without deepening, directly on the surface of the earth, it is filled in as follows:

• The first, lowest layer is drainage (3).
• The next layer is geotextile (2). Geotextile is a non-woven material made of polypropylene fibers resistant to various chemical compounds (alkalis, acids). It is not subject to decay, fungi and mold, roots do not grow through it.
• The main layer is fertile soil mixed with hydrogel (1). Hydrogel is a material that has unique ability absorb and retain moisture. Non-toxic, retains its properties at high and low temperatures in the soil for five years.

Now about the material... Many people refuse to set up high beds because of the initial cost. Of course, the brick bed is good. But it is expensive, but for large area the costs will be significant. For starters, you can build a bed from a board.

Usually on the site there is always something from which you can build a simple structure and a fence for the garden. These can be the remains of slate or finishing plastic. These tall beds won't last long, but you won't have to dig anything for several years.

Convinced of the effectiveness of the technology, gradually it will be possible to build capital beds.

To extend the life of a wooden bed from the inside, it will be useful pave dense plastic wrap or others polymer material... In small areas, you can build multi-level beds.

The lowest high bed will be from South, and gradually the height of the beds should increase. Then all the plants will receive enough light, since they will not shade each other.

On the plot marked for the garden bed, the upper fertile layer of the earth is selected and laid aside. If the depth turned out to be insufficient for laying the foundation of the walls of the bed, it is brought to the required level, 25-30 cm will be quite enough.

We lay high beds

High beds have been built, now you can start working on them bookmark... In areas with rainy summers, it is worth taking care of drainage... Don't be afraid of this word, you won't have to build anything. Just cover the bottom layer with debris that has accumulated in the area. So you will put things in order and prevent stagnation of water in the garden. Branches after trimming the garden, waste paper, rags - everything that will rot for a long time will also go here.

If rodents have been seen on the site, it will be useful to put a metal plaster mesh with a fine mesh under the drainage layer. Moles and mice will not pass through such an obstacle.

Per layer of long-compostable material put leaves, grass, of course, the one without seeds. Such a layer will crush quickly, moreover, in the process of composting, heat will be released, which will significantly shift the timing of the ripening of the crop. Now water the high bed with water and cover it with a layer of fertile soil that you previously set aside.

During the season, a high bed is several will settle, then you will pour compost into it, which will now ripen in a secluded corner of the garden. You will no longer burn fallen leaves or take them to a landfill, but start collecting all organic matter for compost. This is another advantage of tall beds. The use of chemical fertilizers is not required here, because on limited area beds you can always prepare a bucket or two of organic fertilizer.

Benefits of tall beds

So what did we end up with? It is not necessary to dig a bed, and even more so, paths around it. Sometimes it is a miracle when you see how gardeners dig up the entire plot, and then trample the paths. A reasonable question arises: why?

Even if there is no high bed, there is no need to dig where they walk. Unless to help the weeds to break through the layer of trampled earth. Before planting seedlings or sowing seeds, the soil in the garden is simply loosened. Thanks to the presence of compost, such soil is light and fertile.

On high beds you can grow two crops a year. These do not apply to cabbage and carrots, but it is quite possible to grow and have time to harvest radishes or salad before the main sowing. The fact is that high beds warm up well not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Energy of the decaying drainage material enough to start sowing early vegetables much ahead of time... A tall bed is an ideal blank for a greenhouse. Having installed a greenhouse in early March, you will be able to harvest fortified greens on your site throughout April and early May.

You don't need any additional heating... By the time the time comes to plant tomato, pepper and eggplant seedlings, you will have time to harvest the first crop. Likewise, you can use the garden bed after the main crops have already been removed from the garden. Behaves well in a high bed daikon, onions, cilantro and other crops with short terms aging.

High bed requires more waterthan usual, so in areas with dry summers, drainage can be dispensed with, and the height of the beds should be low. The bumpers protruding 15-20 cm will be just right. In high beds, thickened plantings are allowed, and in hot summers they must be mulched.

Try equipping one small garden, and you will be able to fully appreciate all its benefits yourself.

We make high beds - boxes

How to make tall beds: 100 useful ideas

You will be surprised at your past doubts - whether to make high beds in the country ... Your back will be grateful to you - you just bend over slightly to care for the bed. Your knees will thank you - you can just sit on the edge of the garden and do your garden. Your plants will thank you - no more competition from weeds or nearby fruit trees. Your land will be grateful to you - you do not trample it and ennoble it with humus. Your tall-bed garden can look beautiful, comfortable, and reward you generously.

How to make high beds with your own hands.

1. First, we must mark the place for the beds. The usual bed width is 1.2 m, the length can be any. Marking rectangles the right size on the ground with sand.

2. We collect high beds. The high bed has no bottom and consists of pillars with grooves on all four sides and boards with corresponding grooves. You can buy ready-made garden fences or make them yourself. For fences, it is better to take hardwood, because Conifers release resin, which can unnecessarily affect the composition of the soil. Check the horizontal level of the garden box.

3. We lengthen the high beds. Because the design of our beds is modular, we can extend our bed from either side with one more module.

4. How to protect a high bed from rodents. Even if you have not encountered moles and other underground pests of the garden at your summer cottage, it is better to provide for the protection of your garden right now than to unsuccessfully fight this rodents later. We put on the bottom of each box metal mesh so that it goes slightly over the edges of the fences.

5. How to protect the soil on a high bed from leaching into the main soil. To do this, we use regular packing cardboard in two layers so that it covers the entire bottom of our garden box. If there are not enough whole pieces, we use cardboard scraps - we fasten them with a stapler to the main piece so that the cardboard at the bottom of the box does not move when pouring soil.

6. The soil for tall beds should be light, crumbly and fluffy. You can easily check its quality by poking your finger into the ground - if it goes down to the third joint, this is the norm. Peat or compost can be added to improve the soil composition. We put the soil in the garden box, check its horizontal level, water it to compact it a little. During the season, we will need to add some soil.

7. Irrigation system for high beds. It is planned to fix the contour of the high beds garden hose with irrigation nozzles: we need 90 and 180 degree dividers.

8. Trellis for high beds. Because the ground in a high bed is loose, then it will not be possible to install the trellis in it, therefore we fix the trellis from pvc pipes into the ground next to garden box... We pull the nets onto the trellises for climbing plants - cucumbers and beans. For tomatoes, we install lightweight supports from a steel bar.

What you need to know when arranging a high bed.

1. Try to protect tall beds from strong wind and heat, creating partial shade for them with trellises of flowers or tall bushes.

2. The long side of the bed should face south - this way the plants will be evenly illuminated, otherwise, more tall plants others will shade.

3. The density of planting on a high bed is twice that on a regular bed. So plants fight weeds and create a humid microclimate for foliage.

4. High beds with bumpers will allow older people or people with a problem back to take care of the garden.

5. High bed - warm bed. Such a bed warms up faster in spring, and if you make a mini greenhouse on its basis, it will surprise you with an early and generous harvest.

6. Divide the long, tall bed with cross-braces into square segments to reduce soil pressure on the side walls of the bed.

Fences for high beds.

1. Most often, wooden fences are used for clear beds. There are several points here - do not use boo wood, especially sleepers, which may contain harmful chemical substances... Do not treat fresh wood with protective products if you are not sure of their complete environmental safety.

2. A wattle fence as a fence for a high bed. For all its environmental friendliness, such a fence has three significant drawbacks - the soil in the garden bed dries quickly from the wind, proper thermal insulation of the bed is not provided, the soil can spill out through the cracks. Everything is fixable - use a layer of double cardboard around the inner perimeter of the fence. Environmentally friendly, air gap between the sheets serves as thermal insulation, the earth no longer spills out.

3. As a fence for a high bed, you can use a metal profile, including from old roof or fence.

5. You can make fences for a high bed with your own hands from brick or concrete. This is a very good option, but you need to take into account that concrete within 2-3 years will affect the acidity of the soil in the garden.

6. The best fences for high beds - plastic. They do not emit anything of their own into the soil, excellent thermal insulation, long service life and the ability to set any shape of the beds, in contrast to standard rectangles of beds with wooden fences.

7. Fences for a high bed made of scrap materials. You can make the sides of the beds from bottles laid like bricks on concrete mortar.

Why are high beds needed?

High beds allow you to increase the area for the garden because uncomfortable slopes or poor or clogged soil can be used. High beds allow in an environmentally friendly way fight weeds and soil erosion.

Such beds warm up faster and give more early harvest... They allow more economical use of moisture for irrigation.

Various types of high beds.

In addition to the traditional high beds with high sides, there are several other types of high beds.

1. High circular bed. Consists of a round frame with a path to the center of the bed. This form of a high bed is also called a "keyhole".

Branches, roots, paper, compost are placed at the bottom of the bed. In the middle of the garden there is a tunnel for fresh organic waste and water.

This design of the bed provides the necessary moisture and constant soil enrichment.

2. A high bed without fences. When arranging such a bed, the trunks of trees (not conifers), branches, roots, snags are laid in the first layer into the ground at a shallow depth; the second layer is the sod removed from the place where you make a bed, laid with grass down; the third layer of 20-30 cm of main soil mixed with humus.

For irrigation of bulk high beds, an irrigation irrigation system is used, when water comes from a ditch between the beds - a good option for vegetable gardens flooded in spring, or you can use the drip irrigation option, when water enters the garden from mini terraces.

The paths between the beds are covered with straw or large sawdust. Never step on the ground in a high bed, as this will compact it and make it more difficult for plants to get moisture and nutrients.

Tall beds of this type can be used not only for a vegetable garden, but also for growing shrubs and fruit trees, if you have problem soil for them in your summer cottage. The service life of such a bed (until the first tree layer with the trunks completely decays) is 20-25 years - this period will be enough for any fruit tree.

Do not spare space for paths between high beds - so you can always call in there with a garden wheelbarrow, both for harvesting and with a new portion of humus. Have pity on your back - use a wheelbarrow.

If your tall beds are located next to fruit trees, you may need to install a root barrier before breaking up the beds - dig a trench, cut the root on the way to the beds, install a metal sheet into a trench that will prevent the root from growing in that direction and cover the trench with soil.

Learn more about tall beds through your own experiences. There are many interesting finds, experiments and new discoveries in this topic for every gardener.

Video with 100 inspiring examples of the use of tall beds in the country.

Raised beds are ideal for growing vegetables, fruits, berries, flowers and herbs. They have incomparably more advantages when compared with ordinary beds:

• you no longer depend on soil deficiencies on the site, since ideally balanced purchased soil can be used for bulk ridges;
• good drainage guaranteed;
• the thickness of the fertile soil can be easily adjusted depending on the root system of the planted plants;
• with purchased soil, you will save plants from weeds, fungal diseases and rotting;
• a high vegetable garden is much more convenient to dig, weed, fertilize, not to mention more convenient harvesting from such beds;
• warm, tall beds make it easier to grow plants in regions with cold and short summer;
• you can break high beds at any place of the site convenient for you;

Since wood is a short-lived material, many recommend pre-treating it with antiseptics. Others reasonably believe that such processing is incompatible with the concept of organic vegetables, and it is better to use wood that is less susceptible to decay, for example, oak planks... Ultradizz recommends using treated wood only when creating flower beds or, as a last resort, use a dense plastic film from inside the garden to prevent soil contact with the treated wood.


Required tools and materials:



• bayonet shovel;


• boards pre-sawn to the required length;


• roulette;


• building level;


• drill, screwdriver or screwdriver;


• self-tapping screws for wood;


• construction sand-concrete mix;


• master OK;


• hard brush;


• crushed stone for drainage;


• priming;


• bark mulch.



How to make tall wooden beds on your lawn

Stage 1. Arrangement of the first row




First, the sod is removed in strips, the width of which is sufficient for installation wooden board on the ground. Sod is removed along the perimeter of the garden.




Then you should install the boards on the ground, carefully checking that they are on the same level. Planks can be placed under the lower boards to level the structure.










Then you should check that the diagonal dimensions match. If the bed is skewed, level it and check the diagonals and levels again.





Knock the boards together with a rubber mallet so that there are no gaps, make sure again that the horizontal and vertical levels are correct. You can remove some of the soil under the boards if necessary.







For easier fastening of the boards with self-tapping screws, you can initially drill a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the fasteners, and then screw in the self-tapping screws that firmly connect the adjacent boards.










Stage 2. Extending the beds to the desired height




The subsequent one or more rows of boards are fixed so that they overlap the joints of the lower row to ensure high strength constructions. The photo clearly shows how this should be done correctly. After checking the levels, fix the boards to each other.










Stage 3. Filling the beds

You can immediately fill the garden with drainage, but it is even better to pre-lay geotextiles on the bottom to prevent weeds from germinating, as well as to protect bulk bed from the danger of infection with fungal and other diseases from the underlying soil. For drainage, you can use crushed stone and pebbles, fragments of stones and ceramics.






Then they fill a high bed with weed-free soil or purchased ready-made soil so that its height is about 3 cm below the upper edge. Seedlings are planted in a garden bed, then the intervals are covered with deciduous wood mulch, especially if a high bed is made in the country. Thanks to mulch, you can keep the soil moist longer and protect the roots of the seedlings from frost.


Stage 4. Arrangement of blind area around the garden




The blind area is laid on the sides where you mow lawn grass... Remove the sod and soil around the ridge to a depth of the thickness of the brick or tile plus 2.5 cm. The width should correspond to the length of the brick. Use bricks to mark the area with pegs and a cord.









Cement-sand mortar they are laid on the bottom of the trench with a layer of 2.5 cm, and bricks are laid on top with a small gap.









Using a spirit level and a rubber mallet, place all bricks level with the lawn soil.









Fill with dry cement-sand mixture in the gaps between the bricks, seal it with a trowel, and sweep away the excess with a stiff brush.









As a result, you will get a neat high bed for garden or ornamental plants.




Arrange high beds with your own hands on a paved or concrete site even easier, since you do not need to make a blind area. If you want to create warm beds, we recommend raising the sides to a height of 50 cm in order to place the compost between the drainage and the ground.

How to arrange beautiful beds for the lazy, the beds are tall and smart - this is what a gardener needs to know, who wants to make his life as independent as possible from garden worries. If you wish, you just need to master the method of decorating lazy beds, which you can see in the following photos. A garden bed of this type will allow you to enjoy a well-deserved rest in the country and will not require weeding every time. In addition, it is not only convenient, but also increases the productivity of crops.

Everyone knows how much time and effort must be devoted to each planted crop, which, however, sometimes does not even justify the result: the seedlings may not germinate or do not end up with a normal amount of harvest. In this case, you should pay attention to the technology of lazy beds on your site!

Nice and comfortable

Lazy bed - completely new approach to caring for the garden, which will allow the seedlings to grow by themselves and will give several times more yield. It is based on the rule that it is impossible to dig and weed the ground, except for its preparation and planting itself. Even though it is possible to remove weeds and fluff the soil with constant weeding, sooner or later it will dry out and will not be able to provide sufficient moisture for crops.

In this approach, the very preparation for future planting is very important - it is advisable to do this even in the fall, when it is possible to collect material for mulching the soil (you need to cover it with straw, sawdust, cones, etc.), which, in turn, will prevent weeds germinate in an area with such a cover.

1. Install yourself a watering system. You don't have to choose the most expensive systems available in stores. In the case of such gardens, those from which you just need to press a button are quite suitable - and there will be no need to water with your own hands. Watering will allow you to create beautiful beds: green and lush. It is also worth noting: watering can be carried out infrequently, but abundantly, giving the plants the necessary moisture until your next visit.
2. A tool for working in the garden is the key to saving time. Therefore, it is worth choosing one inventory for many years. It can include not only the usual shovel and buckets, but also various little thingsthat will make your work easier. Also find a place for the inventory in advance.
3. At the beginning of the planting season, dig up the ground once, prepare it for future seedlings or seeds. Plant some plants and don't disturb the earth any more: mulching will do its job and keep weeds out. All that is left for you before the harvest is to water the beds in the country on time.

It is interesting and effective method, which is suitable for both lazy gardeners and experienced gardeners who know their business. A bed of this type will justify the effort and can bring a lot of amenities.

A tall bed as a way to get an intensive harvest

Even if this is a very laborious process at first - the construction of the frame itself and watering the beds, but it is she who will allow you to forget about the bad climate and low yields.

The high bed is always under the rays of the sun, which contributes to the warming of the earth layer, so it can be planted in April without fear of freezing, and the lower net will prevent the invasion of moles and mice. A not too wide frame (within 150 cm) will allow you to care for the garden from both sides. If you divide it into two strips 80 cm wide, you can even do it yourself greenhouseby passing the film over both landings. It is worth noting that it is the high beds that give the earliest harvest, first of salads, and then picky vegetables. The only problem is more frequent watering, since water does not stay in such land for a long time.

Despite all the difficulties at the beginning, the planting justifies the efforts put into it and serves for a long time, without bringing much trouble, and the bed has a beautiful appearance.



Digging into a smart bed for fragrant herbs is needed only once, before planting seedlings. Then she requires a minimum of attention and care.