Soil for seedlings with their own hands is quite easy to do if it is known in advance what land on the site. And the study of the soil - the occupation is not only useful, but also interesting, because it is surprisingly different. First of all, gardeners should know the two most important characteristics: acidity and structure. Then the nutritional land for seedlings can be quite easy to make it yourself.
Soil for seedlings do it yourself: a little theory and practice
Before you familiarize yourself with the peculiarities of cooking for seedlings of various vegetable crops, let's understand the acidity and the structure of the soil of your site.
Soil acidity
Soil in the garden
Soil acidity is easiest to determine with the help of live indicators. We are talking about weeds that are in every garden. Sour soils often occupy mocities, horse sornery, heather, buttercup, plantain, horsetail, green and sphagnum mosses. Where the listed plants grow, the soil is too acidic, and it is completely not suitable for apricots, peaches, walnut or dogwood. These trees will be bad fruit, often root and can even die.
On the weakly acidic soils and soils with neutral acidity, they love to grow rares creeping, nettle, mother-and-stepmother, chamomile fragile, clover, shepherd bag, donel. These soils are suitable for most wood and shrub fruit crops.
On alkaline soils, poppies, mustard field, bindweed and drema white, but a lingonberry and rhododendrons never come in them.
Soil for indoor plants
Those who are going to grow in the cultivation of indoor plants on the windowsill, it is worth learn a few secrets relative to the acidity of the soil. When buying a soil in the store there is no problems, as it is already indicated on the packaging. Here you can also find recommendations on what kinds this substrate is intended. Today the universal soil is also sold, but it is not suitable for all plants, despite the name.
Another thing is land taken from the garden. Its acidity will have to be measured independently. For this purpose, there is a special device (pH-meter), but it is expensive, so not every amateur of flowers can afford it. In order not to spend extra money, you can use the Dedovsky method - to hold the so-called acetable test.
With the help of vinegar, our ancestors were determined which soil in them on a plot, acid or alkaline. To do this, a little soil was poured into the container and poured it with vinegar. If stormy bubbles appeared on the surface, it means that the soil is alkaline. In it, you can also grow indoor plants, but at first it was calcined in the old way on fire or in the oven so that the earth would get rid of harmful microorganisms and pests. But it is better to shed it with uh preparations or phytoosporin-M from fungi, and from pests - phytodeterm.
There is an alternative way - freezing. It is done in a conventional freezer. The earth falls asleep in a dense polyethylene package, closed tightly and sent to the cold. This is a kind of winter imitation. In the cold, keep the prepared soil mixture is better than in the apartment, also because the houses are hot and the ground can dry.
Structure of soil
Just like acidity, the structure of the soil is also different. Each natural soil or artificial substrate has its own color, size and texture of components. For example, the bark is used for orchids. In nature, these beauties grow straight on the tree bark, and his trunk serves as a support. The structure of such soil is very loose, so that the roots of the plants can breathe.
Sand soil is light like dust, she simply scatters. It is also easy to breathe roots in it, but there is nothing to eat - all nutrients are washed away.
Chernozem is a soil on which many plants grow perfectly. Its composition has clay particles and a sufficient amount of sand. Roots in such a soil breathe and get good food.
Clay is a heavyweight structure in which plants are very difficult to live. Although food in it and abound, but the breathing of the roots is impossible. In clay, only those plants that have no need to breathe roots are growing.
Forest soil - crumbly, lightweight, with an admixture of dry needles or residues of foliage. In it plants feel great. That is why the taste of forest berries is much risen than many garden.
Peat - air and crumbly soil. The respiration of the root system in it is easy, but it does not provide the plant empty and nutrients. Peat is more suitable for their transportation and sale, and not for cultivation. Therefore, a new flower purchased in the store must be transplant to a more nutritional mixture.
Tip: For growing any plants (and garden, and indoor) it is better to mix the soil of different structures. Thus, all necessary conditions for growth, respiration and nutrition are ensured.
How to make land with your own hands:
- The easiest way is to take garden land, mature compost and large sand in equal shares. If the ground in the garden is acidic, be sure to add wood ash or ground egg shell into it. The usual rate is 1 cup on the earth's bucket;
- If the land on the site is too dense, clay, and at hand there is no mature compost, then it is possible to use a purchased peat or coconut substrate ("Nutnin" and the like) to dispelrusion of the substrate. Also in equal shares, we prepare a mixture of garden land, peat and large sand;
- In the sandy soil from the site you do not need to put sand, and you should add clay. It takes half a share, then add compost;
- Those who have a cottage on peatlands, to the ground from the site in the same proportions you need to add compost, clay and sand. If necessary, deoxide the substrate wood ash, dolomite flour or ground eggshell.
In all listed mixtures, sand can be replaced with vermiculitis or perlite - they not only improve air access to roots, but also absorb excess moisture, gradually giving it down if necessary.
Mature garden compost can be replaced with biohumus or humus. Although the first one is dear, and helmintes can be in the manure. Therefore, we prefer compost, and for seedlings 1 bucket from the fall, lowered in the underground - soil microbes are perfectly winter. When you cook the soil for seedlings with your own hands, all ingredients must be wet (but not wet).
Features of the preparation of soil for seedlings of various vegetable crops
We prepared the foundation for the seaside soil. But for each vegetable culture, additives are important. And this is understandable, some plants grow well in weakly alkaline soil, and others prefer neutral. Someone needs fresh manure, while others from excess nitrogen will stop blossoming and fron. So go to the nuances:
- Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, patissons, pumpkin) before fruiting you need to grow a large green mass, so you can add a korlard to the ground or any other immature manure. And in order to smooth out the acidity of unhealthy organicity, it is extremely necessary to add deoxidizers (wood ashes, dolomite flour or ground eggshell);
- Soil for the seedlings of tomatoes to prepare with their own hands is simple, no special additives of this culture are required. And in order to avoid the appearance of a black leg (the fungus loves a sour Wednesday), you can throw several bowls or garlic husks to the bottom of the landing cup. Moss SFAGNUM also well protects seedlings from fusariosis;
- Peppers are responsive to potassium. Therefore, for the seedlings of peppers into the ground, prepared with their own hands, you need to add a double portion of ashes, or to prepare dried banana crusts, and add to the substrate in a grinding form;
- Cabbage also loves potassium and is growing best in a neutral medium, besides, severe stuffing of the soil will save it from such a dangerous disease as Kila. So she is best suited for a double portion of ash. If there are no ash under hand, then generously pour the ground banana crusts with a shell.
- In the soil for strawberries, prepared with their own hands, it is advisable to add ash, and if there is an opportunity, to increase the dose of compost - berries will not be simple, but also fragrant.
A good crop is always several components. All of them are important: the quality of seeds, their correct preparation for sowing, the choice of varieties, conditions and care. But there is one parameter whose influence is most important. This is the quality composition of the soil in which the seedlings are grown. The crop of all seaside crops (and in our climate, most of the seedlings are grown by most vegetables) depends to a considerable extent from the correctly composed of the seedliness.
One universal soil that satisfies the needs of all plants does not exist. Each garden culture requires an individual approach. Any plant places its requirements for soil. But there are general rules that allow you to create a basic soil so that then with minimal labor costs to optimize it under one or other culture.
Original requirements for ramp
Depending on the type of plants that are grown by a seedler, the soil can be composed of different components mixed in certain proportions. But in all cases it is necessary to comply with the initial requirements for confined substrates.
- Fertility. In the soil there must be in sufficient amounts of all substances necessary spacins for fast and successful development.
- Nutrition. This means that the content of all components is balanced, organic elements are present in the ground and the mineral component is located, and in the form and connections available to plants.
Components of soil
In the land intended for sowing seeds, components of organic and inorganic origin must be present.
Organic components:
- the soil is a ferry, leaf, garden;
- compost vegetable;
- overworked manual cattle;
- peat - lowline and riding;
- sphagnum, coconut fiber, husk seeds, bark, sawdust;
- wood ash.
Peat - one of the popular components of the seedlings
It is not necessary that absolutely all components from the list are present in the soil, but most - yes. The soil is better mixed from three different soils: a garden, which can be taken directly from the ridge (if, of course, patients or insect-affected plants grew there; leafy (from leaves, overwhelmed with land); The turf (which is obtained by cutting the turf). The soil is the basic element of the seedlist.
Compost - pumping plants - necessarily mixed with overworked manure, which is called humus. This is a supplier of essential substances.
Tip! Do not seit vegetables seeds, in humus, compost or low-hand peat. Too large amounts of organic makes the sprouts excessively increasing the leaf mass to the detriment of the root formation. As a result, the seedlings will be bad for landing on a garden or to the greenhouse soil.
Peat will be sure to, it is he who makes the soil fertile. The nyline contains about 70% of organic substances, riding, consisting of sphagnum, makes the soil structure with loose.
Peat is contained in most soils for seedlings. It is extracted from the swamps. It cannot be said that this is a non-renewable resource. From the decomposing organic components under the influence of natural processes, it is formed in the swamps, but very slowly - for millennia. In addition, peat is part of the natural ecosystem - if you remove it from the marshes completely or at least create a serious deficit, the ecological balance will be broken.
That is why scientists have tried to find a replacement of Torf over the past decades. And finally found. More and more manufacturers of earth mixes for seedlings passes today for use.
Benefits of coconut fibers.
- This is a one hundred percent organic or chemical impurities.
- They know how to absorb and delay water, working as a sponge, keeping moisture plants and not deriving useful substances from the soil.
- Land layer in a pot or container with a substrate, which includes coconut fiber, remains dry, which prevents the appearance of soil fungi.
- In coconut fiber, the pH level is about 6, and therefore it normalizes the total acidity of the entire substrate.
- In the fiber there is phosphorus, potassium, as well as other plants required substances in significant quantities.
Coconut Fiber Prices
coconut fiber
Also, for breaking the soil, the shelter of seeds of the sunflower, bark of trees, diverting sawdust, dry moss and other rippers are used. Wood ash is added to normalize soil acidity.
Tip! Do not add to the soil nutrient elements more than the norm - the abundance of the feeding is appropriate in the process of vegetation, seeds, inside which the germs of the plant have a sufficient supply of substances to form and release a full-fledged sprout. Enhanced food seed is not required.
Inorganic components:
- river (as a last resort, career) sand;
- perlite;
- vermiculite;
- ceramzit;
- mineral additives.
Tip! Do not grind strongly components of the soil and do not sieve a mixture through a sieve with small cells - a small phrase substrate will scatter and "swim" after each watering.
It is an excellent component of a seaside soil mixture. This substance has a number of significant advantages.
- Sterility - disputes of fungal diseases and causative agents of infectious diseases in the perlite will not be treated.
- The absence of insects - they simply do not come in substance.
- The absence of seeds of weed plants - they do not take root in soils with perlite and do not spare.
- Preservation in the initial condition for a long time - perlite does not rot.
- A small weight - perlite very light.
Vermikulitis - Porous, eco-friendly material, which contains a record number of necessary sponsors already at the initial stages of the life of magnesium, potassium and calcium.
Drains the soil by performing the role of organic bass and helping to improve the structure and moisture content of the soil.
- Polymer compound, which, at the expense of its properties, also serves to maintain high moisture in the soil.
Tip! To simplify the procedure for watering and maintaining the necessary humidity, add hydrogel to the finished soil in front of the sowing operations.
Prices for hydrogel
hydrogel
In addition to mandatory components, the following elements are also included in the soil:
- ash;
- urea;
- potassium sulfate;
- chloride and sulfate potassium;
- ammonia Selitra;
- superphosphate.
What in the soil should not be
This small, but important item often remainsless. Lovers gardeners neglect them, as a result, all efforts to prepare the correct soil disappear in vain.
The following components should not get into the soil:
- clay;
- fresh manure;
- not overwhelming plant residues;
- tea brewing, coffee thickness and other similar waste;
- salted sea sand.
The clay will make the soil of severe, not transmitting moisture and air, dense. Not overwhelming organic and coffee / tea will cause rotting processes - can begin to decompose, increasing the temperature of the substrate, which will be destructive for many seeds and shoots. Also, the decomposition of the organic will entail the allocation of nitrogen, which will destroy, depleting the substrate.
Soil for different crops
The table is presented in the table of the soil for each vegetable culture from the most frequently grown.
Table. Composition of soils for common vegetable crops.
| Culture | Components of soil and their proportions |
|---|---|
| About 2 kg of garden land, 1 - humus, ½ kg of sawdust (weeding), fine-sided wood bark or coconut fiber. By 6 kg of the finished substrate - 40 g of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea. |
| 5 kg of ferrous soil, 5 kg of the rigoric peat, 2.5 kg of sand, 2 kg. HOUSE, 1/4 kg of lime, 1/2 kg of ash or dolomite flour. |
| 6 kg of peat or 3 kg of leaf land and coconut fiber, 2 kg of turf soil, 1 kg. Horing, 1 kg of sand, ¼ kg lime. |
| 4 kg of peat, 2 kg of turf soil, 1 kg of overworked sawdust or coconut fiber, 1 kg. |
| 2 kg of peat, 2 kg of ferrous soil, 2 kg. Pouring, 1 kg of coconut fiber or overworked sawdust, 1 kg of sand. By 6 liters of the mixture - 40 g of ashes and 15 g of potassium sulphate and superphosphate. |
| 8 kg of peat, 2 kg of turf, 1 kg of river sand, cowboat or humus, or 2 kg of vegetable compost, 1 kg of sawdust or coconut substrate. By 6 kg of mixture - 10 g of ammonia nitrate and potassium chloride, 20 g of superphosphate and 45 g of ashes. |
| 2 kg of sheet soil, 2 kg. Pouring, 2 kg of peat or coconut substrate, 1 kg of sand. By 6 kg of the mixture - 50 g of ash, 15 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate. |
How to cook soil
In the process of cooking the soil for sowing seedlings, it is recommended to adhere to the instructions and perform step-by-step recommendations. Start the workpiece of components is necessary from autumn. Also in the fall, their mixing is carried out. Then the finished soil is sent to the march, which will serve as additional sterilization.
Important! At the mixing stage of the soil components, do not bring nutritious mineral additives. Nutrient additives are entered into the soil in the spring, after the main sterilization, before planting seeds, in the form of solutions.
Step-by-step instruction of the preparation of soil
Step 1. Prepare all the necessary components that you plan to add to the substrate. They should be dry and be in different tanks.
Step 2. Estate on the floor in the utility room the oilcloth or another suitable litter, or take a large container (basic, trough, bath, pallet) in which you will mix the components of the soil.
Step 3. Take the dimensional capacity (glass, mug, other) or prepare the scales. Prepare the tools - the blade, small robberies - and put on the gloves.
Step 4. Squeeze the desired number of required components, place it in the container or pour on the loop, mix thoroughly.
Step 5. The finished substrate pour into small bags (ideally no more than 20 liters). If the packages are polyethylene, do up several small holes to the soil "breathing".
Step 6. Set the bags with the soil in the barn, the utility room, where the minus temperature will be kept in the winter.
If we talk about the middle lane, then watermelons here (as well as some other cultures - for example, melon) is preferable to grow through seedlings. In fact, there is nothing complicated in this process, the main thing is to know, and how to do it.
Defair procedure
Harmful microorganisms contained in garden, sheet, turf, peat, sand, humid and other mandatory components of a seed substrate can harm seeds by making an infection and reduce their germination. So that this does not happen, the substrate must be disinfected. This is a very important procedure to neglect which one should not if you want to get a strong healthy seedlings and yields.
There are four ways to disinfect substrate:
- marching;
- steaming;
- calcination;
- drytention.
One way can be limited to one way, but it is better to combine any of the first three with subsequent drank.
Important! Frozening is carried out during the winter. All other ways begin to apply in January - February, when it comes to cook the ground to sowing.
Farming
The disinfection method by marking is that the bag with the soil is left in the room where the minus temperature is maintained in the winter. If there is no such room, closer to the spring, the soil is put in frost and leave for a week at a temperature of about -10 ° C ... 15 ° C. Then the frozen soil is returned to the heat and week give it to knowy. During this time, all the germs of weeds and pests will be awake in it, which were not destroyed by the first marker. After that, the soil is sent to the frost again. And so two or three times.
Seedling develops and increasing the vegetative mass in a limited substrate. And this volume should satisfy the needs of plants in nutrients and provide normal root growth conditions.
Among the gardeners, the concept of "universal composition of the soil" is common. Such universality is conditional, since each, even from nearby, the plant places specific requirements for the composition and parameters of the soil mixture.
To give the soil the desired properties, add different components in a certain proportion. Components are divided into organic and mineral. The basis is, of course, the soil: hard or garden.
In priority, hard land, since it does not contain spores of mushroom diseases and toxins. Garden land requires solid disinfection. The soil cannot be completely replaced with compost or humus. Under conditions of excess nitrogen, seedlings will stretch and form a weak root system.
Below are components that are used to prepare the soil under seedlings.
| Organic: | Mineral: |
| sheet land (rewinding leaves from the forest) | river sand (not small construction!) |
| compost | perlit |
| humus | vermikulitis |
| nizinal peat (preferably with a high degree of decomposition) | ceramzit |
| moss Sfagnum | mineral wool |
| luzga sunflower seeds | coconut fiber |
| wood sawdust | hydrogel |
| eggshell | crumbs of foamflast |
| rice husk | wood ash |
Organic components - a source of nutrients, and mineral - use to improve the structure, breather and moisture intensity. Each substance has its own specific properties that determine its advantages and disadvantages.
On a note! Sand before use is washed several times to remove iron and manganese.
Finished soils are charged with complex fertilizers and, at elevated acidity, is neutralized by dolomite flour, chalk or lime.
Parameters of high quality soil
To determine how the finished soil is suitable for growing seedlings, it is estimated according to the following parameters:
- nutrient content;
- air permeability (light and loose structure);
- moisture intensity (ability to absorb and hold water);
- the reaction of the soil solution, pH (is checked by a special device or a lactium strip, should be neutral or weakly acid);
- phytosanitary state (lack of pathogenic microorganisms and seeds of weighing plants, the presence of useful microflora).
The soil should not contain toxins, heavy metal ions and radionuclides, so organic components are taken in an environmentally friendly area. It is not allowed to add fresh organic organics (manure, dry leaves, straw), since the active process of rotting leads to an increase in temperature in the soil. Overheating - strong stress for roots.
The soil mixture cannot be perceived as a disinfected stable substrate. This is a lively dynamic system in which complex biochemical processes involving useful microorganisms. In sterile soil, the normal development of seedlings is impossible.
Soil compositions depending on the culture
The composition of the soil is determined by the biological and physiological characteristics of the culture. It is prepared by an individual recipe. This does not mean that the seedlings will die on the "universal" soil. But they will develop worse and do not implement their potential yield.
We have collected proven recipes for the preparation of soil mixtures, which are based on many years of experience in the practitioners and studies of scientists. The table below can be printed and use as a memo.
| Culture | The composition of the soil mixture | Additives (in recalculation by 10 l mixtures) |
| Tomato | 1. Cherry land + peat + humid (1: 2: 1) | 3 tbsp. l. Superphosphate and 0.5 l of wood ash |
| 2. Cherry Earth + Compost + Sand (1: 1: 1) | 10 g of ammonia nitrate, 20 g of potash salt and 50 g of superphosphate | |
| 3. Sheet land + humid + peat + coconut fiber (1: 1: 1: 1) | 1 tsp. urea, 1 tbsp. l. Potassium sulfate, 3 tbsp. l. Superphosphate, 150 - 200 ml of wood ash | |
| Cucumber | 1. Peat + humus + overwhelming sawdust (2: 2: 1) | 100 ml of wood ash and 1 tsp. Urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate |
| 2. Cherry Earth + leaf land + compost + vermiculite (3: 3: 3: 1) | ||
| Pepper | 1. Cherry land + peat + sand (1: 2: 1) | 30 g of ammonia nitrate, 40 g of sulfur of potassium, 60 g of superphosphate |
| 2. Cherry land + humid + perlite (1: 2: 1/2) | ||
| Eggplant | 1. Cherry land + humid + peat (3: 5: 2) | 100 ml of wood ash |
| 2. Compost + Sheet Land + Peat + Swimming Speakers (1: 1: 1: 1/2) | ||
| Cabbage | 1. Peat + humid + wood sawdust (3: 1: 1) | 10 g of ammonia nitrate, lime-puffer (500 g per 1 sq..) |
| 2. Cherry Earth + Compost + Sand (1: 1: 1/2) | lime Pushonka (for the prevention of damage to black leg and kayla) | |
| 3. Cherry land + ash + sand (5: 1: 1/4) | lime Pushonka (added in the same quantity as sand) | |
| Strawberry Sadovaya | 1. Sheet land + compost + Wood ash (3: 3: 1/2) | |
| 2. Peat + sand + vermiculite (3: 3: 4) | ||
| Annolete flowers | 1. Cherry Earth + Sand + Peat (3: 1: 1) | 1 tbsp. egg shell and 50 g of charcoal |
| 2. Peat + compost + Cherry Earth + Sand (3: 2: 2: 1) | ||
| Petunia | Peat (siene) + turf land (sifted) + sand (vermiculite) + coconut fiber (2: 1: 1: 1/2) | |
| Marigold | Humile + peat + sand (1: 1: 1) |
To prepare the mixture, the components are thoroughly mixed to a homogeneous substrate. For seedlings of vegetable crops, it is not recommended to sift the soil to a finely dispersed fraction.
Rules for the preparation of soil soil before sowing seeds
In the fall, experienced gardeners are recommended to stock organic components and sand in the desired volume. When stored in heated room, the soil dries up, but low temperatures are not harmful to it. Before the seaside season, the material is entered into a warm room and in 4 days begin to prepare it.
Ready soil disinfect 4 ways.
Farming
Long, from 30 days, the effects of temperatures are lower than minus 20 degrees effectively against mushroom diseases and the wintering stages of pests. The soil is protected from precipitation and do not allow shelters with snow. This method is used in the northern regions.
Steaming
Ferry processing can be carried out with 2 methods:
- the mixture in the bag is located on the grille over a container with boiling water and process for an hour;
- pour the soil in the pelvis in the holes and shed boiling water.
After the processing is completed, the soil dried, scattering by a thin layer on newspaper paper.
Calcination
Wet soil scatter on a baking sheet of 5 cm and placed in the oven for half an hour. Processing temperature - 60 degrees. The method is considered aggressive, although grandmothers still recognize only it.
Drancing
It is used as a cringers (3 g per 10 liters of water) or a solution of biofungicides. A sparing method - watering biopreparations (phytoosporin, Baikal Em-1, Triphodermin, etc.). They contain a beneficial microflora, which suppresses the development of pathogens. You can also use them after calcining and steaming to restore the useful microflora.
How to choose a finished soil in the store?
With all the benefits of the cooked soil mixture, many gardeners prefer to buy a finished primer for seedlings. It's easier. And this can not disagree. But in order to get a decent seedlier, you need to be able to distinguish a multicomponent mixture, filled with a complex of fertilizers, from sour peat.
Before making a purchase, learn the composition of the mixture and the level of acidity. There must be 2 and more organic components and one mineral (sand, vermiculite or perlite), as well as trace elements and complex fertilizers. Combating producers for the normalization of acidity are added dolomite flour, ground limestone or chalk.
You can go difficult to: buy a universal soil for seedlings and independently improve it depending on the requirements of the culture.
To improve the structure, add vermiculite or river sand, to increase the moisture intensity to make some hydrogel, neutralize wood ash or chalk, increase the feeder with complex fertilizers.
One of the most important stages in the annual work of the gardener is preparation of soil to landing seedlings. How to prepare the soil, which components and in what proportions are mixed - about this in our current article on the site for.
To get a strong and healthy seedlings, it is necessary properly prepared soil. What does it mean? The substrate should be light, homogeneous, air and moisture permeable, nutritious and non-acid. Many gardeners learned how to create the right ground. Multiple proven recipes we will share today.
Soil preparation for seedlings - agriculture methods
1. Direct meals. Growing plants on mineral fertilizers gives a quick result, but the taste of such vegetables and utility becomes below. Mineral ions are instantly absorbed by the roots of the roots, but do not protect plants from diseases. In the future, it is necessary to repeatedly apply pesticides.
2. Mediation food. Through bacteria and mushrooms, which processes the elements in comfortable to the absorption of plants. Such natural agriculture costs without pesticides. Plants do not hurt, since mushrooms and bacteria isolated substances that prevent diseases.
3. Related food. Applied as direct nutrition elements (mineral fertilizers) and intermediary nutrition (through living organisms).
Mineral fertilizers do not protect seedlings from diseases Preparation of soil for seedling - method 1
If you want to get a truly useful and delicious harvest of vegetables, take advantage of this recipe for the preparation of the seedlings. It is created on the principle of natural agriculture, without the use of high-powered nutritional additives.
Take the small-scale soil from the garden, having in its composition mushrooms and bacteria necessary for the processing of nutrients. Preparation under the seeds of seed implies his sifting.
Gardening soil has useful bacteria and mushrooms To increase the proportion of nutrients, add the fifth part of the biohumus to the ground. This is the waste of worms, valuable by its composition. In the process of passing through the digestive tract, the soil is processed by bacteria that protect the plants from diseases.
Add to the composition of the ash hardwood trees or from herbs. You can burn old hay or beveled grass. On the bucket of the soil - half a cup of ash. It contains all batteries that were in plants. Especially a wide variety of valuable substances in the disintegration.
For the cultivation of seedlings in the preparation of the soil it is useful to add ash Preparation of soil for seedlings - method 2
The second recipe proposed by gardeners is based on the principle of mixed agriculture. In other words, it combines direct nutrition and intermediary. In this case, many components participate in the creation of soil for seedlings. For all crops, you can prepare the same mixture.
High-quality nutrition to young plants will provide:
Copraels - 0.5 l;
biohumus - 0.5 l;
Bioneks - handful;
Farmertic chicken litter - handful;
fermented bran - handful;
Liquid biocoset from mineral fertilizers ("Ecoperin", "HB", "East", etc.).
Soil for seedlings should be loose and nutritious First of all, we mix all the dry components, thoroughly rub the soil in your hands. Next, we produce moisturizing with the preservation of the loud structure. For this you need not to pour, but spray composition on the soil, stirring in your hands. To prepare a solution, it is impossible to use chlorinated water - it is better to take rain, talua or resistant.
The ideal humidity that needs to be achieved in the preparation of soil for planting seedlings is determined as follows: when compressed, a lump should be formed, which is easily split when moving.
Moisturized nutritional soil should be inserted into a dark package and firmly tied. The minimum for the preparation of the soil should be waiting for 2 weeks, maximum - 2-3 months.
The preparation of the soil to landing seedlings takes at least 2 weeks Preparation of soil for seedlings - Method 3
Consider another recipe for the preparation of the soil for seedlings from experienced dacities. In this case, take a peat or an old humid (at least 2 years), dried by turf land in a state of small lumps and coconut shavings. All in the same quantity.
For the disinfection of the Earth, you can use the method of drilling in the oven or watering with a solution of manganese. But in this case, the result will be dead earth. It is better to use biopreparations: "Phytosporin", "Baikal", "Azofit".
Coconut chips - affordable soil breakdown for seedlings Vermiculite or perlite will suit the bundles. A simpler and affordable variant - boking chips. On the bucket should be taken 7-8 liters. It turns out a loose mass. For the month of microorganisms will make their job, there will be no pathogens in the soil, it will become like fluff. When preparing in the ground, it should also add ash - 1 cup on a bucket - and 1 tsp. Fertilizers "Ava".
Preparation of soil to growing seedlings - Method 4
The last way we consider does not imply the use of mineral feeding. As a basis, you can take the cheapest of the existing soil. It consists of peat from different layers: the rigging (indecomposited to the end) and the lowered (fully decomposed). It should not have any more additives.
To improve the composition in the soil for seedlings, add sand (in the volume of the identical volume of peat or a little less). It is air, and the water permeable, makes the soil less dense, crumbly. Sand quickly heats up, which is good for the roots of seedlings. In addition, he is heavy and serves as a counterweight for high seedlings, preventing falling pot. Sand soil loves almost all seedlings.
When preparing the soil costs to add sand Sand can be taken at the construction site, it should be gray or white. Best - river. The main thing is not to take red sand, which contains iron oxide. He should not be too small.
Peat grounds usually deoxide at the production stage, but this is often not enough. Therefore, gardeners advise additional deoxidation - 1 tsp. chalk per liter of soil. Bioguumus is added to the nutritionality of the soil - by 10 l 1 liters. A good biohumus succeeded, sinky, without major fractions. It is necessary to mix very well composition, smashed by hand. Two weeks you can start growing seedlings.
Peat soil usually needs additional deoxidation We reviewed 4 ways to prepare the soil to landing seedlings. How to prepare the soil you can also learn from the video.
Each dacket, preparing for a new sowing season, worry, above all, about the future crop. And in order for the plants to bear wealth and abundant in the fall, it is necessary to take care of them from spring. How much the seedlings will be assessed in the end, it depends on how strong and strong will be seedlings transplanted into open ground. And to a great extent, it depends on where and how the seedlings were held the first weeks as they grew. What they fed and how correctly the Earth was chosen for their shoot and growth.
What you should know by choosing soil
Fortunately, there was a time when the earth had to be harvested in advance, to disintegrate from the larvae of pests, enrich the nutrient elements and fertilize from outside. In stores now a great set of soils that are specifically selected and enriched with all the necessary elements. How not to get lost in all this variety and make a really right choice?
What kind of soil to buy for seedlings at home?
What should I need to choose the material and what kind of soil to buy for a seedling?
First of all, you need to remember that the "shop" land is divided into 2 types:
- Soils;
- Torphogruntes.
Soils are used for seedlings of vegetable crops. They contain sufficient nutrient content that will help germinate and grow up with young shoots. In addition, they can be pouring into a hole when transplanting a seedling for a permanent place.
Torphogruntes are not as rich in vitamins and minerals, as soils and are used for already sprouted seedlings, as well as as fillers for the landing place and when forming a bed.
However, with all the seeming simplicity, it also needs to have certain knowledge of the finished soil. After all, not all of them can be independently used as a soil for seedlings: some need to additionally focus not with renduing biodoxes, but some, on the contrary, themselves are a concentrated mixture to dilute the poor on the fertilizer of the land.
So, here are some tips on what kind of soil stop your choice:
1. What to choose: universal or special?
Any experienced gardener will say at once: "Each culture has its own land!". And this land is now sold for everything separately: "Soil for tomatoes", "Soil for cucumbers", "Soil for flowers" etc. And the reason is not at all in the desire to inflate the unrelated buyers with a clever advertising move. Just for each culture is really necessary, with different content of micro and macroelements. Saturated with those or other vitamins. Therefore, it is more likely that an inexperienced gardener will buy a universal soil, while experienced is already aware that such a soil most of all needs an additional enrichment of bio-fobties.
2. What will tell the packaging?
Packaging without labels should not even look. The branded primer always contains the name and address of the manufacturer, the composition of the product, the party number, whether the soil matches the dates and storage time.
Attention should be paid to the acidity of the soil, because the necessary pH in all cultures are different. Therefore, the soil with high acidity can be destroyed for some species seedlings, and buying such an earth, it will be necessary to deoxide with the help of dolomite flour or lime.
3. What will tell the composition?
In the "composition" of most stores, as a rule, no more than 3-4 components. Ideally, it would be nice if there were 1-2 peat varieties, vermiculitis (or some other soil breakdler), montmorillonite alumina. Because grow a good seedlings from the soil, with the composition of peat + compost is unlikely to succeed.
Also, one should not be called by the content of such substances such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. If their content in the ground is equal to or more than 300-400 ml. per 1 liter (ml / l), then use it better as an additive to poorer land, and not as an independent soil.
4. Take advantage of the choice.
At the time when the shelves fall from the abundance of the types of soil, not to take advantage of this is a sin. Therefore, it is better to take 1 package of different soil, and then, if necessary, mix one with others to improve the composition, rather than buy 10 packs of one brand, and then buy not getting elements. But even when buying an already familiar soil, which turned out to be quite good in the past year, it is not necessary to immediately buy a lot of packs. After all, no one has canceled such a thing as "fake". Therefore, buying a big party, it is better to buy one package to start, to open it in place, inspect and evaluate visually, and only later, when satisfying the result, buy the remaining number of packages.
5. What to do after buying?
But even after the Earth is chosen and purchased, you should not immediately use it under seedlings. Many daches even the store land are additionally disinfected from fungi and larvae. To do this, first it is better to sift it and stir. And then each has its own way of disinfection: you can simply take it on the frost, and you can hide it on fire. It is possible to shed boiling water, but it is possible to infect the manganese. But it should be remembered that killing harmful bacteria, together with them and useful, so it is necessary to disinfect the soil in advance so that the soil has the opportunity to stand and restore the lost microflora.
Important! Find out the acidity of the soil is very easy, just pouring it onto a wetting surface and watering from above 9% solution of cutlery. If it was strong, then the soil is alkaline, if there are not much foam, then neutral, if the foam is generally no sour.
What can I say, summing up?
Shopping Soil does not guarantee a good germination of seedlings and a rich harvest with plants. Perhaps in some cases it would be wiser to take advantage of the accumulated methods of the workpiece of the Earth: to collect the soil from the greenhouse from under cucumbers or from the beds where legumes grew up. Everyone has its own method of harvesting soil. However, the purchase of the soil is still intended to relieve the work and life of the gardener, and at least somehow help on the way to achieve a rich harvest. And what to choose - everyone decides himself.
Earth for seedlings with their own hands
When conducting the seed planting process, the preparation of high-quality land for seedlings is of great importance. It can be bought or cook with your own hands.
How to make a soil yourself for seedlings?
The soil for seedling must have such properties: be balanced and fertile, loose, light, porous. It must have an average level of acidity, possess good moisture absorbability, contain microflora.
For the preparation of the soil, the ground is used, in advance prepared from autumn, organic and inorganic components. The land should not be too overproed or wet, it should not be clay in its composition. It is purified from weeds, larvae and worms and sieved. The land is definitely subject to disinfecting, for which one of these methods is used: marching, marking or calcining. Almost for any seedlings, such a composition of the soil is suitable: 2 parts of the Earth, 2 parts of the organicists and 1 part of the drainage. Soil acidity is lowered with lime or ash.
But at the same time, the composition of the soil is individually prepared for different garden crops. So, for eggplants, cucumbers, pepper and onions will suit the composition: 25% of the Earth, 25% of sand and 30% peat. If you want to grow cabbage, the stake of sand should be increased to 40%. If you are wondering: how to make a soil for tomato seedlings, it is recommended to increase the share of the Earth to 70%.
How to make land for seedlings of flowers?
Alone prepared soil for seedlings of colors must contain such components: 1 part of sand, 2 parts of the compost, 2 pieces of the turf, 3 parts of the peat.
Before driving seeds, the prepared soil mixture should be disinfected. The soil is watered with a weak solution of manganese and dried. Planting seeds is recommended to the temperature-cold 20-22ºС Earth.
Thus, deciding which vegetable or floral cultures you will grow, you will understand how to make land for seedlings.
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It's time to sow seedlings. What soil is suitable for these purposes?
To seed out well, we need prepared seeds and a good excavation mixture. The best will not be the one that is near the house, but prepared from specially selected parts.
Correct seedlings. Preparation of soil and containers for seedlings
To do this, use turfs, peat, sand, humid, sawdust, manure. The ratio of components may be different, only there are 2 conditions that should be observed. First: the soil for seedlings must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients; The second is its loyalty to subsequently, during irrigation, it does not stick into one piece.
In the first case, the mixture can be fertilized, to feed, but if the second condition is not respected, then all the efforts to grow seedlings can be in vain, since the viscous mlin-like soil does not give nutrition to roots, and the plant simply lacks the air, it does not develop. And fix it almost fails. Therefore, the second condition is very important.
The following compositions of the soils are considered to be the most favorable for growing seedlings: 60-70% peat, 10-15% delicate (field) land, 15-20% humus, 5-10% cow. You can add other components such as sawdust, coarse sand.
Still use such mixes for seedlings:
1. Peat - 6 parts, field (stern) Earth - 1 part, humus - 2 parts, sand - 1 part.
2. Peat - 3 parts, a korlar - 0.5 parts, sawdust - 1 part.
3. Underwear - 1 part, low-door peat - 1 part.
What are the above components?
Peat occupies the main part in the soil, as it has a high absorption capacity. The turf (field) land has nutrients and a good structure due to the decomposition of the turf. Humile (decomposed manure) is rich in useful microflora, nutrients, has a loose structure. Sawdust and sand are additives that prevent land seals.
In the rapid grounds of Parenic, well add more: 300g of wood ash, 30g superphosphate. In the soil for seedlings, the cabbage is added: 400g ash, 20g urea, 20g superphosphate. In the pumpkin soil for seedling: 500g ash, 20g superphosphate.
There are still soil fertilizer methods (based on 10 kg of mixture):
- for grated - 10 g of ammonium sulfate, 32 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium chloride;
- for cabbage seedlings - 15 g of ammonium sulfate, 17 g of superphosphate, 6 g of potassium chloride;
- For cucumber seedlings - 8 g of ammonium sulfate, 10 g of superphosphate, 5 g of potassium chloride.
In this way, the soil can no longer fertilize or do it 1 time.
In any compounds of the soil it is useful to add ash - 1-2 glasses.