This technology for arranging the beds was invented by him for reasons of extreme necessity: in a hot region in the summer there is an extremely tense situation with water and gardeners are inventing all sorts of irrigation methods or agricultural techniques, in which the need for plants in water is significantly reduced.
In central Russia (we are on the border of zones 4 and 3), the weather does not always pamper warm (it doesn’t happen year after year), however, there are no problems with water, but we also have such a technology for arranging beds:
- a thick layer of organic matter is laid, which, when overheated, releases heat, which is important in a cold region for the comfortable living of plants in the garden
- multilayer organic matter will feed the plants for several years, and the lower layer of thick wood, in general, will last for 8-10 years.
- the second drainage layer from the branches from the bottom works as a condensate accumulator, which makes it possible not only to reduce watering, but also, in general, to exclude watering as one of the stages of the technological process in growing vegetables
Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich is an eminent gardener who devoted the lion's share of his life to the issues of organic farming. One of the most useful and most exploited of his achievements was the technology of creating and operating warm beds. This article is fully devoted to the construction and use of warm beds of Rozum.
This type of beds makes it possible, with the help of certain manipulations, to turn into a fairly fertile soil even that soil that for many years did not lend itself to any processing and on which only weeds grew. The yield on this kind of garden bed is at least 30-35% higher than usual, depending on the particular type of crop you intend to grow.
Did you know? The organic layer of the bed, decomposing, will emit a lot of carbon dioxide, which is one of the most important nutrients for any plant.
Having created such a bed once, you do not need to repeat the same manipulation every year, since its service life is practically unlimited. After that, it remains only from time to time to renew the organic layer to improve nutrition processes.
The construction of such a structure is possible in almost any season. Naturally, the best result you will get when created in the spring and summer. But you can create it on the eve of winter frosts: during the cold period, the earth will have time to restore its natural balance in a natural way.
Find out how to make tall beds in the country with your own hands.
Distinctive features of the method
The main distinguishing quality of the Rozuma intensive bed is, of course, extremely fast growth and excellent yield. This effect is achieved due to the huge number of microorganisms, fungi and other ground living creatures, which produce a great variety of nutrients, while not requiring any additional chemical feeding. Which brings us to the second feature - the high environmental friendliness of such beds. 
Did you know? The process of active soil depletion began in the twentieth century due to improper and overly active treatments. It was then that such an industry as organic farming was born.
When using this technology, keep in mind that you will not have to dig new grooves every year, since you just need to renew the organic layer and green the soil in early spring - and it is ready for reuse again.
Do-it-yourself Rozuma garden
Below you can find information on how you can make Rozum's beds yourself on your site. Remember that the information provided is only a general concept and you can always improve the original technology with your innovative improvements.
Markup
The general outline of the creation of these beds implies approximately the following markings: organic components will be in the center, the width of the central part should be about 50-60 cm. On both sides of the central part there should be forage beds 30-35 cm wide, on which the necessary you cultures. On the sides of each of the feed beds there are lawn paths, the width of which should also be about 60 cm.
A properly planted lawn will serve you for a long time. It is important not only to choose the right grass for the "green fields", but also to get a lawn mower, which will help to care for the lawn, make it thicker and more beautiful.
Important! The Rozuma bed should be created on prepared soil. Preliminary preparation involves tillage of the soil (10–15 cm) and removal of weeds.
Thus, each warm bed should occupy about 1.2-1.3 m, they will be separated by lawn paths, 0.6 m wide. Having made the necessary measurements and preliminary marking, you can proceed to the direct formation of a groove for organic components.
Groove
The groove should be exactly in the center of the bed. It is usually made wedge-shaped, with a depth of about 25-30 cm. For the formation of this depression, the Fokin plane cutter is best suited. You can even use a simple hoe. 
Organic
Thick branches are laid at the bottom of the groove; in extreme cases, even solid logs or boards are suitable. Further, smaller branches are laid on a layer of large branches, everything is distributed in an even layer. 
Important! To prevent small rodents from settling in your bed, which can later harm the crop, you can cover the bottom of the groove with a fine-mesh metal mesh.
After this, you need to place a layer of organic matter, moreover, you can place both fallen leaves, grass, hay, and food waste or manure, this does not play a significant role. Then everything should be properly tamped, and you can proceed to the next stage. 
Solution
For better development of microorganisms and attracting more ground animals, any EM-preparation should be added to the organic layer: "Baikal", "Emochka", "Shining", etc. This will start the process of fast fermentation and contribute to composting. To protect against the Colorado potato beetle and other harmful insects, you can use a solution of the drug "Metarizin", although this is not a prerequisite. 
Mulching
The final stage of preparation is mulching the organic layer. To do this, over the contents of the central groove, it is worth applying a layer of 7-10 cm of organic (sawdust, needles, humus, hay) or inorganic mulch. 
Such a warm "blanket" is designed to significantly accelerate the natural decomposition of organic matter, which, in turn, will contribute to the best yield of your crops. 
Features of planting crops
The only unquestioningly followed rule of how to plant Rozum in the beds is planting in the forage areas. You can not plant plants in the central part, as this will contribute to the rapid depletion of the stock of fertile properties. 
In the first year after the creation of the beds, it is recommended to sow them with crops that require hilling. Such a structure of the stern will allow the groove to deepen and bring it to a state that is most useful for subsequent plantings.
In the following years, it is possible to plant crops such as zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, pumpkin and cabbage. If, for some reason, you did not renew the organic layer before any of the seasons, the garden bed can still serve to grow crops that are undemanding to nutrients, such as greens or peas.
The use of warm beds of Rozum is able to turn loamy unproductive soils into pure black soil in 2 years and give an increase in yield by 30–35%. Therefore, it is not worth putting on the back burner of this great productivity-enhancing method. Good luck to you and your site!How to arrange the beds on the site, how to fill them, to what height to raise and how much fertilizer to apply? Your harvest directly depends on the answers to these questions, but what should you choose in order not to lose it?
While someone has the beds in the garden in the old fashioned way, the inquisitive minds of summer residents all over the world are working on solving an important question - what kind of arrangement of beds will contribute to an increase in yield and facilitate the work of a gardener? Practitioners and theorists of gardening art from the USA, Russia, Ukraine and other countries offer their options, and you just have to choose the best one.
The oldest unusual ridges can be safely considered the Mittlider beds - they appeared more than 40 years ago and became a real "bomb" in gardening. Since then, this method has been tried almost all over the world, and managed to identify both its advantages and quite obvious disadvantages.
How to make Mittlider beds
The sizes of the beds are strictly defined - their width is 45 cm, along the edges there are earthen bumpers 10 cm high, and the passages between the ridges should be 90-100 cm wide.The arrangement of the beds also does not tolerate variations - only from east to west, strictly in a sunny place, otherwise the result will be far from ideal.
However, making such ridges is still half the battle - placing vegetables on them is also important. Each culture according to the Mittlider method has a strictly verified planting pattern. So, onions and other compact crops are planted in 4 rows, squash and tomato bushes in 1 row along one of the sides, vegetables and medium-sized roots - in 2 rows.
Finally, the most important step is the regular application of mineral fertilizers to the soil. Before planting, light soils are saturated with calcium and boron at the rate of 100 g per 1 running meter, and for heavy soils this rate is doubled. Then, every 7-10 days, the ridges are fertilized with a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and molybdenum (60 g per 1 running meter). Mineral substances are scattered dry into the aisles, after which the ridges are thoroughly and abundantly watered.
You can buy the nutrient mixture ready-made, or you can make it yourself. To do this, you have to mix 420 g of azofoska, 280 g of kalimag, 190 g of carbamide, 110 g of superphosphate and 2 g of molybdenum and boric acid each.
Pros and cons of Mittlider beds
Over the decades of Mittlider's theory of gardening, millions of people tried it on their site, but most of them returned to other options after a few seasons. This is due to the fact that, despite the high yield, not everyone is able to follow the advice of the author.
Firstly, the huge amount of mineral fertilizers can scare off the supporters of natural farming. Secondly, their frequent introduction requires time and a certain pedantry - each culture needs its own mineral complexes, and everything must be calculated with an accuracy of the gram. Thirdly, such an intensive use of fertilizers leads to an increase in the cost of final products, and not all summer residents can afford it. And finally, the formation of narrow ridges with wide aisles simply contradicts our mentality, when every centimeter of land should be occupied with useful crops, and not just rest.
The beds of Lyadov
Lyadov's beds (as the author himself admits) were the result of a reworking of Mittlider's ideas. True, in the process they have changed so much that the resemblance to the "progenitor" is not striking. They will be an excellent option for those who have a damp area that is regularly heated in spring, or a site with close groundwater.
How to make beds according to Lyadov
The width of the beds remains the same as in the previous case, but the paths between the beds are pretty narrow and now reach only half a meter in width. The ridges themselves rise by 15-25 cm and are enclosed in high boxes. Of course, it is impossible to collect the required volume of soil from the passages, so plant residues, sawdust, straw, foliage are sent to the boxes. All this is watered with EM preparations (ready-made or home-made) and covered with a layer of earth from the rows. In autumn, after harvesting, green manures are sown on the ridges and plant remains are re-laid. The author of the technique suggests sowing the row spacing with grass or covering it with sawdust.
Lyadov uses mainly organic fertilizers (herbal infusions, humus, manure and dung). True, in case of a shortage of this or that mineral in plants, you should not give up the point use of special means.
Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov
The beds made according to Lyadov's method are perfect for damp areas, but on arid ones they will require continuous watering and will pretty much exhaust the owner by constantly drying out the plant roots. In addition, an excess of plant residues in the ridges can contribute to the development of numerous diseases, active reproduction and excellent wintering of harmful insects.
To understand whether such beds are right for you, it is better to start 1-2 small ones and check how the plants feel in them and whether it makes sense to put together boxes for all crops.
Rozum's beds
The ridges offered by the Ukrainian gardener are complex in execution and not too easy to maintain. They show themselves well in a fertile and sunny climate, but in central Russia or in the northern regions they can fail.
How to make beds according to Rozum
Harvest beds according to Rozum are ridges 30 cm wide, located every 60 cm. On one side of the ridge, a groove is dug deep into the bayonet of a shovel, filled with plant residues, and on the other, a siderat path is sown.
As the green manure grows back, you need to mow, plow in and sow new ones. The grooves need to be supplemented with fresh plant residues as soon as they begin to sag. Caring for Rozum's beds is reduced to removing weeds and watering, preferably root.
Pros and cons of Rozum beds
The pluses of the miracle beds include, perhaps, the availability of space for the disposal of plant and food waste, and the unusual external waters. But it is worth dwelling on the minuses in more detail: the ridges require complex, painstaking care, there is little space for the vegetables themselves, the ridges of the earth often crumble or sag.
Such a garden bed can become more of an experimental entertainment, but it is not recommended to transfer the entire site to the Rozum system, unless, of course, you live on the site continuously and are ready to devote all days to gardening.
Kurdyumov's beds
Beds for the lazy - this is what is most often called - the planting option proposed by Kurdyumov. In order to make them, you need to put together high boxes and lay the layers inside in a special way.
How to make beds according to Kurdyumov
There are two options for Kurdyumov ridges - boxes and trenches. The former are good in regions with damp or cold climates, the latter are good in hot, arid areas. For bed-boxes, special plank boxes with a width of 50 cm and a height of 30 to 60 cm are erected, and for bed-trenches, respectively, trenches 30-40 cm deep and 60 cm wide are dug.
If there are no high-quality boards at hand, you can build boxes from slabs, slate, galvanized metal, etc.
At the bottom of the trench or box, large pieces of wood and branches are laid, then a layer of earth, a layer of organic waste, and on top of it they pour EM preparations to activate the decomposition processes. Then several (2-3) layers of organic matter are alternated with the ground, they are again watered with EM preparations and covered with a thick (5-8 cm) layer of mulch. As a mulching material, you can use husk, mown withered grass, agrofibre, etc.
The passages between the ridges are mowed and covered with mulch, boards, cardboard or other materials. You can also lay paving slabs or gravel between the ridges, then the garden will look even neater.
Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov
Kurdyumov's beds are an excellent option that works for several years without refueling. Continuous decomposition of plant residues in the lower layers of the garden warms the soil, protects plant roots from frost, saturates the soil with nutrients and attracts beneficial insects and soil bacteria. High boards protect plantings from weeds, and gardeners from working in an incline. True, such beds dry out quickly, so it is necessary either to place them next to a water source, or to organize drip irrigation.
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What, already n O lito? .. Then I have a toast.
May everyone who has thought of this grow stronger and prosperous!
Chapter 6
Viviparous combs of Vladimir Rozum
Vladimir Nikitich Rozum is a resident of the Ternopil region. His soil is light yellow loam, which turns into concrete in summer. There is no black soil even in the upper layer. Droughts are common. There is little water for irrigation. Well, what can you grow here ?! Rozum grows everything. And so are his students. And the harvests are excellent.
It's all about the magic beds. They are similar to the beds of Oleg Telepov, and work on a similar principle. But there are major differences. Each second path for the accumulation and decay of organic matter, Vladimir Nikitich, wedge-shaped deepens on a bayonet - a composting ditch 55-60 cm wide is obtained. On the sides he makes two ridges-ridges 30-35 cm wide. double. Such is the bed: "comb - compost - comb" (Fig. 35). Between the beds - passages of 50-60 cm, covered with live grass turf.
Rice. 35
These beds, of course, need to be dug up and filled with organic matter. But labor is the same as just digging up a garden bed. And organic matter is refueled for a very long time: below - thick branches and poles, above - weeds and grass-foliage, and then green manure and tops (Fig. 36). Once laid, the basic organic matter includes humification for many years. Literally in the second year, the soil turns black, and in the third year it gives excellent yields. Of course, neither the beds nor the aisles are ever bare, and by autumn it is a continuous carpet of siderata (Fig. 37).
Rice. 36
Rice. 37
An important plus of the Rozumov beds is the shallowness and wedge-like shape of the composting ditch. In such a ditch, organic matter does not sour, does not wander without air - everything happens here with the help of aerobic microbes and fungi, which ensure the process of fertility. The heat from the condensation of morning moisture and from the decay of organic matter is given to the soil in the root zone - it is not lost. There is always moisture under the compost and foliage layer and is used without loss. The roots of plants feed on both sides all summer long at a feast of worms and microbes.
Convex ridges accommodate almost double the number of plants - there is space, there is enough light. Everything grows according to I.E. Ovsinsky: the plants, feeling crowded in the roots, tend to spread out into free space - and they have it. Edge effect everywhere.
Rice. 38
Hence, new opportunities to combine landings. In fig. 38 is a piece of just one comb. How good vegetables are here can be seen from the beets.
Chapter 7
You can tighten the fit
Everything is everything.
Wisdom!
The main thing: if you already know how to grow good vegetables and are satisfied with your result, you do not have to combine something at all. It is hardly necessary for those who are not inclined to invention: finding a successful way of combining is not an easy task. You have to think, plan, keep records. In general, not for everybody.
I see a lot of sense in combining. First, you can manage to squeeze two beds into one. Harvesting carrots in a narrow bed is good. But to grow here a trellis of cucumbers, albeit with an average harvest, is even better. Most of Russian summer cottages are 4–6 acres. One will involuntarily think about it! Secondly, plants can protect each other from pests. In a combined bed, the pest is not so comfortable. "Combined" allows you to do practically without poisons - this is very important if you are trying to turn a site into a sustainable ecosystem. Thirdly, the combination gives a more permanent and dense vegetation cover, which is better for the soil. Finally, it's fun to experiment! In general, this is a very reasonable path, full of pleasant finds.
Combining plants successfully is much easier in theory than in practice. Here I have already "messed up a lot of firewood." The hardest part is figuring out when to sow what. It is necessary to ensure that the plants do not jam each other. For example, if you plant cabbage and cucumber seedlings at the same time, the cucumbers will hopelessly lag behind - the cabbage will crush them. Among the plants there are "sprinters" who take the lead. There are also "invaders" who are rapidly occupying the area. But they also behave differently under different weather conditions and on different soils. You can find out all this only on your own experience.
Here is the basic fact of combination: you will get the most luxurious and productive plant if nothing else grows on a whole square meter! Therefore, reconciliation is essentially a compromise between plant freedom, land scarcity and our unwillingness to work hard. And only for thinking gardeners - the art of making the most of the sun and soil.
In general, cultivated plants do not tolerate very close proximity. Once in the ring of neighbors, they are greatly inhibited in growth, and the more light-loving they are, the more they lag behind. However, having escaped into the light, many quickly gain power. These are pumpkin seeds, salads, tall tomatoes, cabbage. Cucumbers and climbing beans retain their vigor if they have time to stick the tops out of the thickets. In general, in order for all plants to receive, and then give their own, they have to divide between them not so much space as time.
The simplest and most sensible is to combine vegetables in narrow beds, growing them in two rows. It is also possible in three rows, the middle of which is a trellis. But there are good options for wide ridges. I came to the conclusion that it is much more convenient to combine rows or stripes than individual plants. It is even easier to combine "spots", plots of different vegetables in the size of one and a half square meters. In the south, the “amphitheater” method works well. There are other observations as well. I offer them to you.
Conclusions on "square foot"
This method of placement, or rather, a way of understanding the placement of plants in a small area, was invented by the American Mel Bartholomew. His book "This Extraordinary Square" has been translated into many languages.
Mel proposed an extremely simple model of a combined bed - a 30 by 30 cm (square foot) square. It is very easy to place several plants of different heights on it, see the result and understand how they get along. For example, there is a pepper bush in the center, four carrots in the corners, and four parsley bushes between them.
I took a square half-meter closer to us. You can fit more here. For example, in the center - a tall tomato, a couple of cucumbers or four bushes of beans on one vertical stand, the stems of which are exposed from below as quickly as possible; in the corners - four beets or four nests of three carrots; and between them along the edge of the square - three or four bushes of parsley, cilantro, watercress or radish.
You can stretch the square in time. First, grow radishes from below - 30-40 bushes, in five rows, after about 5 cm in a row. Then plant cucumber seedlings, sow carrots or beets. And after removing the root vegetables, in September, sow the radish or salad again (Fig. 39).
Rice. 39
I tried to make a 1 by 4 meter garden out of such squares and failed: the plants that fell in the middle lagged behind and did not develop at all. The narrow bed has won! Now I can tell you something to those who liked the idea of squares.
1. Fact: a square fenced in and covered with humus works best when it is alone, by itself, and the circle is empty. Then all the plants are well developed. Conclusion: there is no need to combine vegetable squares into large arrays. But you can make a strip of them one square wide. The central, high row in the strip will no longer be compacted by other plants. We got a narrow bed.
2. Plants on the north side of the square will be underdeveloped due to the shade of the central, taller plant. This means that tall plants need to be planted from the northern groan of the square. This is already a small "amphitheater".
3. If a wide bed is made of squares, it is better to plant only the shortest vegetables and stunted flowers. Zucchini, pumpkin, Swiss chard and all cabbages, except kohlrabi, are not suitable for compacting: they crush everyone with their "burdocks".
4. Squares with branchy plants growing for a long time should also be staggered. If a flower garden is broken into squares, it is better to turn it into a "chessboard", the light squares of which are rugs of bent grass, stonecrops or other unassuming cover plants.
5. A box with squares, and especially a flower bed, is better to immediately decorate with beautiful light slats. It is more convenient to plant in such a "net", and you can see better what you are doing. But the main thing is the elegant look!
The squares method is good for experimentation and better understanding of alignment. Suitable for conservatories, loggias and patios. It is also very good for small rectangular wall-to-wall flower beds, where mostly the most compact plants are planted. In an ordinary garden, it is hardly applicable. A strip of squares is applicable - a narrow bed.
Triangles are better
This is about how to more efficiently fill the area.
Our machinery can only sow, plant and cultivate in right angles. That is why the "square" fit is more familiar to us. But it is not the most rational one. There are no squares in nature, but there are hexagons: they use space more rationally. In our country, agronomists Vladimir Petrovich Ushakov and Pyotr Matveyevich Ponomarev studied this. Biointensives have long been compacting crops by placing vegetables in the corners of the hexagons.
Sitting in the corners of a square, the bush tending to roundness is under pressure from its neighbors from four sides. It is enough to shift the rows relative to each other by about half the interval, and the bushes appear in hexagons - we saw this in Fig. 28. The space of each bush increases, the pressure of neighbors decreases, and there are fewer unoccupied spaces. In narrow beds, it is recommended to plant bulky plants - cabbage, peppers and eggplants, zucchini. And it is harmless to plant the rest of the vegetables this way. And seedlings. On a large area, for example for potatoes, the effect can be significant: on the same area, under the same conditions, almost 20% more plants fit. So much less space is left for weeds - also good!
Separate rows of plants are also better done not with a line, but with an "accordion" - a two-row winding strip. If the strip of plants is open in both directions, then you can move the accordion more, almost to right angles between the plants (as in Fig. 29). In free space (say, along paths) it is always more rational to plant in two offset lines than in one.
Vertical alignment
Doctor! Give pills for greed. Yes, more, more !!!
Theoretically, it is possible to fill not only the area, but also the maximum volume - both above the garden bed and on the sides. So much air, and wasted! It is so tempting that I continue to experiment all the time.
In a narrow bed, you can combine two or three crops. On the sides, with a shift, sit cabbages, beets, carrots, Peking, lettuce, peppers, bush beans. And along the central line, cucumbers, tomatoes, climbing beans, vigna, or sweet corn grows on the trellis. Three crops in a narrow bed are better at repelling pests than two. For example, on one side of the trellis - dill, and on the other - carrots. The main thing here is, without sparing, to quickly remove the lower shoots and leaves of the vines. Otherwise, no combination will work: the vines will crush everything on the sides.
In practice, greens most often sprout by self-seeding, and the garden bed itself becomes a variegated salad carpet (Fig. 40).
If the bed is stretched from north to south, trellis plants should be planted one and a half times less often than usual. Light must pass freely through them, otherwise each row of low vegetables will be in the shade for half a day. If the bed is stretched to the east-west, the trellis should be placed along the northern edge. And this is already an "amphitheater".
Rice. 40
The main problem: the central trellis is thermophilic, and the side rows are often cold-resistant. Therefore, early vegetables, planted on the sides in March-April, often stun the later-planted climbing "southerners". And finding themselves under the canopy of a cabbage leaf or in a bush of peas, a cucumber or beans just freeze and hopelessly lag behind. Even among the carrot tops, cucumbers sit quietly, waiting for freedom. Tomatoes are a little more hardy - they still knock out to the top, but they are greatly delayed in growth.
What do we have to do? 1) First, sow the "ephemeral dwarfs": radishes, watercress, cilantro. Then plant seedlings of vines. And sow the side rows even later, when the central plants have already climbed onto the trellis. 2) Make sure that the side rows are as far as possible from the trellis. In a narrow bed it is 20–25 cm in each direction. 3) Plant high-quality potted seedlings with intact roots in the center so that they do not stand idle. 4) Thin the side rows on time and carefully so as not to delay the growth of the plants.
Conclusion: the easiest way is to combine climbing vegetables with those that can be sown all summer, or it is not recommended to sow very early because of the bloom. These are beets, radishes, bush beans, Chinese cabbage, daikon, carrots, salads, kohlrabi, turnips, peas, Swiss chard, herbs.
It is especially necessary to say about onions: as it turned out, it does not tolerate any shading neighborhood at all. But we found a neighbor for him too: after the onion had begun, we sow carrots in the aisles. The onions are soon selected for food - the carrots remain. But garlic gets along well with any trellis - it is shade-tolerant, it hardly shades itself, and it leaves early (Fig. 41).
Rice. 41
Provided that the trellis confidently ahead of the side rows, spread cucumbers, zucchini, squash, zucchini, broccoli, and bush tomatoes are also suitable as lower crops. Bush beans are especially good under the trellis of tomatoes. Having twisted, I managed to grow a radish between them (Fig. 42).
Rice. 42
It is very convenient to sow side crops in June, when the early harvest of greenery around the edges is harvested, the central vines are already without lower leaves, and the bed is essentially free. Here you can sow all early ripening vegetables that grow normally in summer - they are listed above. You just need to achieve good shoots with frequent watering, and then mulch the soil.
The alignment of longitudinal rows in a wide bed is much more difficult than in a narrow one. The main thing: no matter how the bed is located, the row spacing should not be less than 15–20 cm. For example, on a bed 120 cm wide, you can fit three rows (stripes) on each side of the center line. The rows closest to the trellis are dill, basil, marjoram: they can be plucked mercilessly so as not to interfere with the extreme rows.
Planting peppers or carrots here is useless: sandwiched in the middle, they do not give a crop. Their place is in the extreme, lateral rows.
Vegetable "amphitheater"
It is even more difficult to combine three crops in a wide bed. The only simple way is stepwise: a) the bed is stretched to the east-west, that is, it is illuminated "in the face"; b) the trellis stands on the northern side of the bed; c) vegetables vary greatly in height. The garden bed resembles a stadium tribune.
The main "rule of the amphitheater": the higher, "back" rows should outpace the growth of the lower "front" neighbors (Fig. 43). In fig. 44 cucumbers are just sitting from the north - in a week they will crawl out onto the trellis. First, seedlings are planted for the trellis - "balcony". When it grows, an average crop is planted or sown - the “amphitheater”. The last, ten days later, is sown "parterre". In its place, radishes, watercress or coriander have just ripened - they are removed.
Only peppers (sweet and bitter), eggplants, bush tomatoes on stakes and herbs: basil, catnip, dill are suitable as medium crops for the amphitheater. They are planted when a curly stalk is allowed to grow in cucumbers or beans. Tomatoes planted with beans are first jammed. Peppers do not suppress. Vigna and some varieties of climbing beans are so thermophilic that they begin to grow only in the June heat, although they sprout together with bush beans. Tomatoes and cabbages grow more powerful and earlier than anyone else.
It is better to separate the rows of vegetables in the amphitheater from each other by 30–40 cm. The high, rear row is at the very edge: there is no need to leave space for the weeds. After 30–40 cm - the middle row. Further, after 20 cm, there may be rows of carrots, beets. Bush beans can only grow from the edge - their bushes require a lot of free space and always fall apart on the path. The bow is also on the edge, it needs light.
Rice. 43
Rice. 44
The amphitheater yield is definitely no more than monoculture. And yet this is a pretty productive bed. And beautiful, too. Best of all, the "amphitheater" looks near the house. The tiled semicircle, open to the south, is quite beautiful.
The simplest thing is spots!
In fact, to plant all the beds accurately, of course, is not enough patience. And all the methods mentioned are applied from case to case, as the land is freed from earlier cultures. I would like to somehow easier: waved his hand once or twice - and so that everything is in the right places!
The closest to this simplicity is sowing with "spots" in wide boxes. This applies to "little things": greens and salads, root vegetables, onions, bush beans. The bed is sown in sections with transverse rows, as in fig. 45. A meter of radishes, half a meter of salad - and you can sow something else on the vacated places. Ten rows of beets, ten - carrots, six rows of onions, three rows of parsley - and very simple, and colorful enough for pests. You just need to make sure that one does not crush the other: leave space on the border of the "spots" and use more of the edges of the beds. In this mode, perennials along the edges of the beds get along well.
Rice. 45
Quite easy alignment
"He waved his hand," like Vasilisa the Wise in a fairy tale - the dream of a lazy person! And I did it. There are very few weeds on the compost beds, but I agree to weed thoroughly once. In the spring, at the end of March, I cut the bed with a rake and cover it with a film. After a week or two, I cut the carpet of young weeds with a flat cutter. After a couple of days, I take the seeds of radish, watercress, cilantro and lettuce - and just scatter them around the garden as I have to. I close it up with a rake, spill it, cover it with a film. After a couple of weeks, I sit down on the board, slowly weeding and tearing through everything that is superfluous. It remains to regularly choose young greens on the table - primarily from the central strip, where cucumbers or tomatoes are soon planted.
Do they want to live together?
Relatives are people who are not connected with each other, who periodically gather to be counted and eat tasty meals on the occasion of a change in their number.
A. Knyshev
The more diverse a community is, the more sustainable it is. It is difficult for pests to work in a diverse environment: it is more difficult to find their plant, there are many unpleasant and frightening odors, and there are many enemies. However, the plants themselves strongly influence each other: they shade, produce aggressive volatiles and root exudates.
Let us recall the experiments of L. Moser. He clearly showed that some plants stimulate the growth of grapes, while others suppress it, regardless of their size and with a guaranteed excess of food and water. An already proven fact: plants actively communicate chemically and by means of electromagnetic signals. There is even science about this - allelopathy. However, there is such a mass of data, moreover often contradictory, that it is difficult to apply anything in the case. I tried to collect the data available to me in one bag, shook and squeezed a little. Here's what happened as a result.
1. Do not get along together: a) plants of the same height and burliness, if planted very closely; b) representatives of the same family, that is, relatives. This is natural: you want the same thing, and similar things are thrown out. It's the same with us: often relatives are the worst friends. Umbrella ones quarrel especially strongly with each other: dill, parsley, celery, parsnips, lovage, cilantro. Only carrots are quite loyal.
2. Fennel and wormwood oppress everyone without exception.
3. Onions and garlic are aggressive towards legumes and cabbages.
4. Carrots, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes - basically all the same.
5. Lettuce and spinach release substances that activate the roots of other plants and shade the soil. General helpers and breadwinners!
6. Protect everyone from pests: beans, parsley and herbs from the labiate family: lemon balm, basil, savory, thyme, catnip, hyssop, marjoram. And also spicy flowers decorating the garden: calendula, nasturtium, marigolds, chrysanthemums, zinnia, cosmea. Onions and garlic inhibit fungal diseases.
7. Corn, Jerusalem artichoke, sorghum and millet shade everyone, protect from the wind and create a good microclimate. A sunflower, on the contrary, can be aggressive towards many vegetables, and it is better to move it to the edges of the garden.
T. Yu. Ugarova cites some couples who are good at helping each other to resist pests. These crops can be placed in adjacent rows. Carrots and onions protect each other from carrot and onion flies. Celery scares away white flies from different types of cabbage. It is planted between the cabbage and grows after the cabbage is harvested. Spread cucumbers and dill get along well in one place - provided that there is not so much dill. Basil and tomatoes work well together. Kohlrabi and salad coexist quite well in the same row: the latter is removed earlier than kohlrabi. Cucumbers, weaving on corn or sunflowers, feel great and bear fruit before the cold weather. Beans on poles get along well next to low cucumbers and tomatoes. It is good to sow radishes where zucchini, zucchini and other late vegetables will later be. But this is already a matter of alignment in time.
Using various methods of preparing organic beds on my site, this year I made another discovery for myself - Rozum garden a, and was pleasantly surprised by the result. After reviewing several webinars in the winter B.A. Bagel on this topic, I was eager to create such a bed at home, taking into account all the features of my site (loamy soil, lack of opportunity for additional irrigation - the source of water is exclusively snow and rain) and the presence there of a sufficient amount of plant residues, including the cut down old willow since last year. That is, you don't need to go anywhere and, even, you don't need to carry anything in a wheelbarrow - everything is at hand.
So, what is the essence and difference of such a bed from the usual or even familiar and beloved by all of us " warm beds»?
First, it can be done right in the spring, just before sowing.
Secondly, to create it, you do not need any additional structures in the form of boxes or other frames.
And thirdly: there is no extra labor costs for digging and digging a deep ditch with throwing the soil back and forth in order to "bury" the embedded organic matter, as in warm bed... All organic matter lies on the surface with oxygen access according to the principle of forest litter and begins to decompose immediately into biologically active substances with the release of carbon dioxide, directly feeding the plants during their growth, without rotting and unnecessary combustion-overheating with the release of harmful gases.
Almost the entire area beds V. Rozuma permanently covered with a "blanket" that traps underground dew and the heat released during its condensation. Even during the hottest and drought periods this summer, it was humid and cool, and the plants did not retard their growth, in contrast to the control plot, where I specifically did not put organic matter in order to check and compare the effect Rozum's beds with normal conditions in the usual beds.
How I did Rozum's Bed.
So to say, for the "purity of the experiment", I chose an untreated area, almost turf, the vegetation of which was mainly burdocks, dandelions, timothy grass, wheatgrass, thistle and annual shoots of hogweed. By May 20, it all turned green and grew up together. She mowed, raked to the side and outlined the dimensions of the future bed 1.2m (30cm + 60cm + 30cm) X 4m.
Further, in no case digging and no shovel !!! We take our beloved reinforced hoe, roughly deepening by 4 cm, chop off pieces of turf, shake off our little land with worms from it, and put the remaining "loofahs" to the side. By the way, this bunch of roots was immediately transferred to the next garden bed, where the seedlings of zucchini and cucumbers were planted and grew right into the turf under the trimmed 5-liter bottles.
So, I processed the entire area hoe(burdocks and cow parsnip were simply chopped down - the plants are biennial, they will not grow, the remaining roots rot right in the garden bed, do not germinate). Further along the width of the future ridges, rabbit droppings with sawdust were scattered, about 2 buckets per 4 legs. meters. poured Shining-3 and I carefully removed the top most fertile layer of the aisle with a pick-up shovel and laid it without turning (!) onto the layer of droppings, forming ridges.
With a chopper she formed a V-shaped moat. The preparation of the bed is ready, it remains only to fill the moat with organic matter. And here's the fun part! A layer of woody organic matter is laid on the bottom - branches up to 2 cm in diameter with leaves (in my case they were dry after winter), then hay and straw and a layer of fresh green mass. All this was sprinkled in layers with an EM-preparation Shining-3.
What does it do? - providing the roots of plants and beneficial aerobic microorganisms with air, i.e. fresh organic matter does not cake from above, does not block air access, and bacteria work in the entire layer equally and quickly, providing nutrition to our plants.
In the "classic" the bed of Rozuma 3 crops are sown on the boletus: Beets + onions + carrots. As a longtime admirer and experimenter of mixed plantings and catch crops, I decided to leave this scheme and supplement it. In the very edge of the boletus, beets were sown in grooves on one side (deliberately thickened - after 5 cm), on the other - carrots. Middle - onion - sowing + dill. Radishes were sown between onions and beets and onions and carrots (it did not interfere with anything - at the moment when beets and carrots had 1-2 true leaves, the radishes were already harvested). In addition, seedlings were planted on the garden bed: basil, low-growing marigolds, strawberry seedlings (and even yielded a crop) and Savoy cabbage on the ends.
Sprayed 3 times during the summer bio cocktail... There were practically no weeds. I was trying to mulch, but because of the density of plantings, there was simply nowhere ... the whole area is occupied.
According to the results: The harvest of radish, dill has already been harvested (just a record: both greens (and dried, and in preparation), basil: all summer - leaves from the palm of your hand and continues to grow, cabbage - leaves on cabbage rolls and green borscht, berries with large-fruited strawberries - and the new mustache takes root perfectly among the beets and carrots.
The onion crop is not very large, but the salad sweet is a bucket. Marigolds bloom beautifully! And this is only an intermediate "harvest - the main one is still in the garden, but the fact that I already see beets in August of quite impressive size makes me happy and makes me draw conclusions.
I have previously used mulching with mown grass on my site and the effect made me happy - I saw the result: it is always wet under the mulch, weeds do not grow, my plants are comfortable, neither cold nor heat is afraid. One good shelter was enough from early summer to autumn.
But what I discovered this season for the first time using EM technology and EM drugs, I was simply shocked and inspired. First laid organic on Rozuma's bed with the drug Shining-3 it was enough for two weeks - it just melted before our eyes - the woody skeleton of the first layer could be seen. I had to report it constantly - and the volume is not small ... But, is it not a joy when everything that you give this season immediately works for the harvest and increases the fertility and humus content in your soil!
Natalya Valerievna Shtypulyak "Fertility", Yaroslavl