Shed roof insulation technology. Proper arrangement of the ceiling under a shed roof: the best technological solutions Insulation of a shed roof

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When choosing a simple structure for the roof of a residential, utility or any other object, as well as an extension to the main building, the most advantageous is a shed. It is built quite simply, undemanding to the type of foundation due to the small load, and will also easily fit into the estimate of any budget project. Do-it-yourself shed roof is built step by step in the shortest possible time even by one person without involving additional equipment or people. The design has increased functionality and reliability.

The most common scope of shed roofs is baths and outbuildings.

In order to understand whether it is worth making a choice in favor of a shed roof, it is worth evaluating what advantages will be obtained and minimizing the impact of disadvantages. Benefits include the following criteria:

• Profitability in terms of financial costs not only for building materials, but also for strengthening the walls to increase their resistance to compressive and tensile stresses.
• Simplicity of design will allow even non-specialists to build roofs of this type and at the same time receive optimal terms of their operation, as well as the absence of any maintenance requirements.
• Possibility with panoramic view.
• Reduced windage of the roof in the presence of predominantly directed winds and the choice of the correct location of the slope of the slope.
• High maintainability due to the simplicity of the design of the truss system and battens.
• It is allowed to use any roofing materials when choosing the right angles of inclination.

A do-it-yourself shed roof built step by step also has a number of disadvantages: it does not withstand significant loads during heavy snowfalls, it does not have an entirely aesthetic appearance, and it also does not hold the roofing material during strong gusts of wind from the side opposite the angle of inclination of the slope. In fact, for competent designers, these shortcomings are not so significant and, if necessary, they can easily be turned into advantages. So, for example, so that the roof does not fall off, it is enough to plant trees on the site or build a higher building next to it. To improve the aesthetics of the perception of a shed roof, it is enough to go for a trick and implement a project with multi-level slopes of the slopes on two opposite sides of the house.

Helpful information! Shed roof does not allow to equip the attic. This fact must be taken into account when planning the roof.

Preparatory work

Do-it-yourself pitched roof is erected step by step only after preparatory work has been carried out. The service life of the structure depends entirely on their thoughtfulness. First of all, this concerns the correct planning of the roof and the selection of materials.

How to make a shed roof?

For a shed roof, the angle of inclination is the main criterion for its reliability. On the one hand, the larger the angle, the more efficiently the precipitation is removed, and on the other hand, it is the main element that must withstand gusts of wind. During severe winters with a significant amount of precipitation, a thick layer of ice and snow forms on the roof, which can create loads that exceed the allowable ones, as a result of which the roof can deform and break through. That is, the angle of inclination of the slope according to this criterion should be based on the characteristics of the climate.

Attention! The angle of inclination of the roof should be directed towards the largest wind flows in order to reduce the resistance of the structure to them.

Another factor that influences the slope of a roof is the roofing material, which can vary in roughness or strength. Qualitatively, its applicability for roofing can be divided by the angles of inclination:

• When the slope is up to 10 0, only rolled materials that have a flat and relatively smooth surface can be used. These include roofing material, shingles, etc.
• With a slope of 10 0 to 20 0, it is possible to use corrugated materials, such as slate, metal profile or ondulin.
• With a slope of 28 0 - 35 0, smooth metal roofing sheets are used, joined in a folded way.
• Tilt angles 25 0 -35 0 are suitable for laying metal or ceramic tiles.

Important information! Larger angles of inclination than 35 0 are not recommended due to increased resistance to air flow and deterioration of streamlining, which is fraught with a breakdown of the roofing material.

The device and construction of a shed roof

The device of shed roofs is quite simple and includes the following nodes:

• Rafter system. Designed to take the main load of the roof and distribute it evenly along the entire area of ​​the walls of the object. Usually it is made of wooden beams with a cross section of 50x100 mm, depending on the roof area and the number of supporting elements.
• insulating layers. They are laid between the rafters and fixed to the crate and sheathing on the inside of the building. Their role is to ensure maximum protection of the object and load-bearing structural elements from moisture or freezing.
• Lathing. Designed to secure the roofing material and provide sufficient bearing capacity to support its own weight and various anticipated loads. The material for its manufacture can be MDF panels, edged and unedged boards. The choice is made in accordance with the type of roofing material.
• Roofing material. Allows you to provide excellent aesthetic properties of the roof, as well as protect it from precipitation.

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Types of roof supports

The support for the roof is selected based on the mass of the structure and the characteristics of the roofing material. There are the following types of supports:

• Layered. They are additional structural elements that are installed evenly along the length of the slope in the inner part of the roof.

• Hanging. The simplest fastening scheme, based on only two supports located above the walls of the building.

• Sliding. Fastening to the walls is carried out on a special structure based on the Mauerlat (strapping).

Is it necessary to provide ventilation of the under-roof space?

In some structures, the requirements of the roofing material and the object under construction, due to the peculiarities of its operating conditions, create the need to ensure ventilation of the roof. A striking example is the bath, where the temperature difference between the interior and the external environment is more than 100 ° C. The main goal is to get rid of the formation of condensate and damage to the main elements. For the roof, it is necessary to provide a gap on the gables between the coating, the roof and the truss system.

Creating a drawing

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to measure the wall framing, if this has not been done before. After that, taking into account the specific features of the object, as well as the selected design parameters, it is necessary to calculate the optimal parameters of the slope angle.

The optimal distance between the rafters should be 1-1.5 m. The lathing step is selected based on the requirements for laying roofing material. Taking into account all the data, a drawing is created, and then the number of building materials that need to be purchased is calculated. Additionally, it is recommended to make a stock of materials in the amount of 10-15% of the total.

List of required tools

Carrying out construction work will require the use of a number of tools that must be prepared in advance so as not to interrupt the installation. Therefore, before making the main structural elements and building a pitched roof, you need to prepare the following tools:

• screwdriver for comfortable connection of structural elements;
• pencil or marker for marking;
• building level to adjust the position of parts of the roof;
• stapler for attaching waterproofing;
• hammer for driving nails;
• saw for sawing rafters and battens to the required dimensions;
• measuring tape;
• plumb line to control the vertical position.

Do-it-yourself shed roof step by step - description of the stages of work

After carrying out a number of preparatory work, you need to proceed with the installation. The installation steps are as follows: installation of rafters, lathing, laying of insulation materials and the main roof. Each stage must be thought out in advance: all the necessary tools and some of the materials are raised to the roof for easy access to them. With this approach, there will be no downtime and delays, which will guarantee the completion of work on time.

Installation of the truss system

The device of the shed roof truss system is relatively simple and does not require experience in this type of work or special knowledge. However, it is important to follow the sequence of installation steps.

In accordance with the drawing, on the ground we saw wooden beams 150x150 mm to the required dimensions before raising them to the roof. Then be sure to treat them with antiseptics and apply a protective layer. If this is not done, then insects or other pests can start in the wood, which will violate the strength of the structure and will have to be replaced.

Important! All wooden beams and boards must be dried naturally and have a moisture level of no more than 10%. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the supporting structure with all the ensuing consequences.

From the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope, we install support posts, which are otherwise called gable. At the same stage, additional supports should be installed, if they are provided for by the design. They are in most cases ordinary spacers. The interval between them for the installation of tiles is more than 3 m, and for profile sheets - more than 6 m.

Attention! When installing a shed roof step by step with your own hands, it is imperative to check the verticality of the racks, since even the minimum angle of their inclination can reduce the strength of the structure to a level below the minimum calculated one, which will lead to unpredictable consequences.

We install the prepared beams on a wooden strapping or Mauerlat with fastening "in the paw", "in the bowl" or on steel pins. For the first two options, you will need to make the corresponding cuts of the Mauerlat and rafters at the points of their contact. To do this, mark the point of contact with a marker, and then saw off the corner with a saw to a depth of no more than 30% of the height of the rafter. Additionally, it is necessary to install special steel brackets to increase the strength of the rafters or anchor.

The installation interval of the rafters is determined by the weight of the roofing material. You should focus on the following values:

• for light roll roofing materials, the optimal distance between the rafters is 1.5-3 m;
• for sheet materials and tiles, the interval should be 0.7-1 m.

Helpful information! All rafters must be laid in the same plane without distortions to ensure reliable contact of the crate with them.

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Laying insulating layers

Do-it-yourself insulation during the installation of a shed roof is mandatory step by step for those buildings that are planned to be operated in the winter, in order to increase their energy efficiency. To fix the thermal insulation from the side of the premises, it will be necessary to sheath the rafters with MDF boards or boards with a thickness of 10 mm or more butt. In some cases, it is allowed to lay drywall sheets with a vapor barrier film to protect it from condensate.

The vapor barrier layer is overlapped at a distance of 15-20 cm with the obligatory gluing of the butt joints with special adhesive tape. At the points of contact with the extreme rafters, they are laid on a vertical surface to ensure maximum protection against moisture.

The next step is the laying of thermal insulation material. Do-it-yourself installation of a shed roof step by step, it is recommended to use mineral wool materials, polystyrene foam or polystyrene as a heater. An important point when laying them is to ensure tight contact with the rafters without the slightest gaps. A gap of 1 mm in size and 10 cm long is capable of providing heat losses of several kilowatts, depending on the ambient temperature.

Helpful information! Shed roof can be insulated with any heat-insulating material. The choice should be made on the basis of its effectiveness, cost and ease of installation.

On top of the insulation, laying a waterproofing film is required. The method of its installation is similar to the installation of a vapor barrier. However, there is a significant nuance - the connecting seams must necessarily fall on the rafters, and the fastening should be carried out on steel brackets using a construction stapler in increments of 10-15 cm.

1 - rafter; 2 - counter rail; 3 - waterproofing film; 4 - vertical crate; 5 - horizontal obreshetina; 7 - vapor barrier film; 8 - waterproofing seam.

Installation of batten and roofing material

With a step-by-step installation of a shed roof with your own hands under soft and rolled roofing materials, the crate should be installed in the form of a continuous layer. In all other cases, boards are laid under the crate with an interval of 50-80 cm. The thickness of the boards should be more than 20 mm, and the width should be from 10 cm. Fastening is carried out on nails or self-tapping screws to the rafter system. Then wind boards are installed, which will serve as a guide when laying the roofing material in terms of its alignment. However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to control the stacking of the row using a level. For convenience, two bars are stuffed from the two end parts of the slope at a distance of about 0.5 m from the wall and a thread is pulled over them. This will be the zero level at which you need to align the series.

Roofing material is laid according to the appropriate technology. Installation starts from one of the corners of the slope and the entire roof is laid in order. The method of fastening is determined by the selected material.

Helpful information! For rigid sheet materials, fasteners are recommended to be placed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner in order to prevent damage or deformation.

At the final stage, the end parts of the roof are sheathed in places where the slope is sloped.

Roofs with one slope are very advantageous in terms of heat retention, since the attic of this design gives less space for the movement of cold air masses.

Shed roofing really has this obvious plus, but only on one condition: the correct performance of insulation work.

Previously, roofs with one slope were insulated with clay concrete or cement-bonded slag. These two materials are not very beneficial in terms of heat retention.

Currently, combined materials based on insulating boards, basalt mats, glass wool or fiberglass blocks are widely used. Such insulation has proven itself from the best side, moreover, it is economically very profitable.

Basic material requirements

High-quality material for insulation should have some necessary qualities:

1. It should be light so as not to exert a significant load on the roofing base. To determine the weight of the material when choosing it, first of all, you should pay attention to the density.

2. The insulation must be moisture resistant. If it allows moisture to pass through, it will become saturated with it over time, and the entire structure may collapse. In addition, when exposed to moisture, the material loses more than half of its technical characteristics and simply becomes ineffective.

3. It is necessary to take into account the coefficient of thermal conductivity: the indicator should be low - about 0.05 W per square meter. meter.

4. You should choose environmentally friendly materials, especially when insulating the roof of residential buildings.

5. It is necessary to take into account such qualities as fire safety, flammability, self-extinguishing.

6. The insulation must be completed in such a way that it fits snugly to the surface.

7. A very important quality is resistance to temperature changes and sudden temperature fluctuations. The duration of the operational period largely depends on it.

8. The service life is determined by several factors, including the quality of installation and the specific type of material.

• Fiberglass, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, extruded polystyrene foam, basalt wool are suitable for insulating a shed roof.

They meet all the basic requirements for the quality of insulation.

• Sometimes natural materials are used: straw, linen insulation, seaweed, etc.

However, they do not differ in durability, besides, some varieties are very expensive.

Shed roof insulation

As you know, a shed roof is the easiest to install, operate, and further maintain. It is based on a frame system based on wooden beams of a specific section, which are based on a Mauerlat.

Roof insulation must be taken care of already at the stage of its installation. In this case, the insulation becomes an integral part of the roofing pie and reliably protects the interior from the penetration of cold in winter and overheating in hot weather. It also prevents the formation of condensation during sudden changes in temperature and humidity levels.

Materials and tools

Required for work:

• insulation that meets the requirements;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• building buttons, nails;
• tools (carpentry);
• adhesive tape.

Work order

As a rule, a step of about 60 cm is maintained between the wooden rafters, since the standard width of the insulation in mats or rolls is 61 cm.

• First, a layer of vapor barrier is fixed on the inside between the rafters. To do this, use building buttons or brackets.
• The vapor barrier layers must be absolutely sealed. To this end, all joints must be glued with adhesive tape. From the inside, the vapor barrier layer is completely protected by any type of finish: fiberboard, clapboard, finishing panels, drywall.
• From the outside, insulation material (mineral wool, fiberglass, etc.) is laid at least 15 cm thick. If the material needs to be cut, a special construction knife is used for this. During laying, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the material fit very tightly.
• The edges of the layer of heat-insulating material and the vertical surface of the outer part of the walls must match. To limit the insulation, a board is used: it must be nailed between the rafters. To protect the thermal insulation on all sides, the top edge of the board must be flush with the rafters.

Features of insulation technology

If the base of the roof is reinforced concrete slabs (they are used, for example, when building a garage roof), thermal insulation must be made from the outside. For this, foam is used, and a concrete screed is laid on top.

The technology requires preliminary carrying out the necessary preparatory work. Plates should be cleaned of dirt, dust, various influxes.

The joints located between the plates are sealed with high-strength mounting foam or caulked with fiberglass. The surface prepared in this way is covered with high-strength foam. The heat-insulating material is laid in two layers apart with an overlap. Insulation boards are best fixed together with a construction film.

Waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation layer. An ordinary roofing felt or roofing film is perfect for this - both in terms of quality characteristics and in terms of price. A concrete screed with special plastic additives or reinforcement is installed on the finished layer. In order to avoid cracking of the coating in the future, it is necessary to add special frost-resistant solutions to the concrete composition.

Internal insulation technology

To qualitatively insulate the roof from the inside, it is necessary to lay three layers:

• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier.

Such a “pie” should be created both in the case when the base is reinforced concrete slabs, and in the presence of a wooden beam structure.

To make a hydro-barrier, a special material is used, which is laid on top of the rafter legs.

This is necessary in the case when the height of the rafter leg is greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation.

If the thickness of the material for thermal insulation and the height of the rafter leg are equal, the film is laid on the top of the bars used to extend the rafters.

The installation of waterproofing is carried out across the slopes, while the overlap is 10 cm. At least a 50-mm gap is maintained between the roof and the waterproofing layer. For this purpose, bars with a section of 50 x 50 mm should be prepared in advance.

After unpacking the thermal insulation mats, they must be left for some time (15 to 25 minutes) to restore their dimensions. To speed up the process, you can shake the insulation material.

In the event that the required width of the insulation is preliminarily known, it must be taken into account even at the stage of project development. Mats measuring 1.2 meters can be laid in two layers with a distance between rafters of 0.6 meters. In all other cases, they must be cut.
After restoring the dimensions of the insulation, it is cut and, in accordance with the draft, is placed between the rafters.

It must be borne in mind that the material must be installed in the spacer. Its width should exceed the distance between adjacent rafters by 3 cm.

In the event that the mats were not cut in accordance with the length of the slope, to ensure reliable insulation of horizontal sections, the length of the overlap will be from 20 to 30 cm.

There should be a gap between the waterproofing film and the insulation layer. For this, conductors based on bars are used.

The last stage of the device of the heat-insulating layer is the installation of a vapor barrier. It is necessary to prevent the penetration of condensate and moisture into the hygroscopic insulation, which can lead to dampening of the material and loss of its quality characteristics.

The vapor barrier is located at the bottom of the rafter legs and is fixed with construction stapler staples or galvanized flat-head nails. The vapor barrier should be laid with a 10 cm overlap. To ensure the tightness of the canvas, the connection is made with an adhesive tape.

In some cases, the underside of the insulation material is equipped with a vapor barrier. In this case, the need for mounting additional layers is eliminated.

Installation of waterproofing is carried out above a layer of thermal insulation if a polypropylene or polyethylene film is used, which do not allow water vapor to pass through.

Thermal insulation installation is carried out when breathable membranes are used.

Ventilation of the insulation system is provided with 1 or 2 gaps.

One hole is made between the waterproofing layer and the roof. It serves to remove atmospheric moisture, which can enter the under-roof space as a result of condensation or leaks.

The second hole is located between the layers of heat and waterproofing. Its purpose is to remove vapors entering through an insufficiently sealed vapor barrier from the interior.

Overview of some insulation materials

Mineral wool

Material for thermal insulation, consisting of long fibers of inorganic origin, subjected to melting.

It is produced in the form of heat-insulating mats and plates.

• It has a low thermal conductivity, a high level of strength in relation to mechanical loads, high water repellency.
• The presence of randomly arranged fibers provides excellent soundproofing qualities.
• Mineral wool does not deform under the influence of cold or heat.
• Possesses chemical and biological firmness, it is ecologically safe.
• Excellent thermal insulation qualities are provided by the presence of many air channels and pores. Belongs to the class of non-combustible materials.
• Qualitative characteristics are preserved for more than 10 years.

ursa

This material has excellent thermal insulation qualities.

• Due to the high level of sound insulation, it is excellent for insulating noisy types of roofs - for example, from metal tiles.
• The elasticity of the material makes it possible to achieve its snug fit to the surface, which provides ideal thermal insulation.
• The material is not very dense, so that if necessary, it can be cut with ordinary scissors.
• Its use as a heater makes it possible to significantly reduce the financial costs of heating.

Styrofoam

This material occupies a special place among modern heaters due to its unique heat-insulating and sound-absorbing qualities. However, due to its vapor impermeability and combustibility, it is not recommended for use in the case of a flat soft roof. The choice of extruded polystyrene foam ensures excellent ventilation of the room.

The material is fixed from the inside. Laying of plates is carried out in one layer directly on the waterproofing. Care must be taken to ensure that the edges fit snugly. The joints are filled with mounting foam, and reinforced adhesive tape is glued on top.

During installation, it is important to monitor the tightness of the edges. The joints of the plates should be filled with mounting foam, on top of which reinforced adhesive tape is glued.

CONCLUSIONS:

• Due to its features, a shed roof allows you to save the maximum amount of heat.
• To reduce heat loss, the roof must be insulated according to all the rules.
• The main requirements for the material for insulation are lightness, high thermal insulation qualities, and moisture resistance.
• To insulate a shed roof, glass wool, mineral wool, fiberglass, etc. are used.
• To perform the work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials in advance.
• Work must be carried out in strict sequence.
• Internal thermal insulation is carried out in the following order: waterproofing - thermal insulation - vapor barrier.
• Ventilation gaps are also required.
• The modern market provides a wide selection of heaters for a shed roof.

For more on the features of pitched roof insulation, see the video.

Do you dream of building a house with a fashionable shed roof, but do not know what to do with it later? Should the ceiling be left at an angle, or should it be lowered to the horizontal? Do I need ventilation, what can I sheathe? What roofing pie?

And how do you work with finishing materials that will have to be fixed at an angle? In this article, we will reveal to you all the secrets of what a shed roof ceiling should be like and how to make it practical and durable.

Let's first figure out what the roofing pie of a typical pitched roof is all about. All shed roofs are divided into ventilated and non-ventilated. In residential buildings, and in most technical enclosed spaces, such a roof is made with ventilation if it has insulation.

The fact is that in any residential area there is water vapor (from the kitchen, people's breathing and the presence of moisture in containers), which rise up and, despite the vapor barrier, are able to penetrate the insulation. If the insulation at the same time fits snugly against the ceiling, then the moisture has nowhere to go, and gradually the heat-insulating layer begins to dampen and grow moldy.

Therefore, right above the insulation there should be a little space through which air from the street will pass and take away excess moisture. But in technical rooms, often a shed roof is not insulated at all, and therefore no one thinks about its ventilation.

And now let's deal with the concepts. So, the ceiling at the shed roof is made suspended or hemmed:

• Suspended ceiling. Here, 8-10 cm of empty space is left between the ceiling and the false ceiling, where insulation is placed or ventilation is organized.
• The false ceiling is attached directly to the roof, and with only one purpose - to improve its aesthetic appearance from inside the room. False ceilings are good, first of all, because they do not “eat up” the ceiling in height at all.

The ceiling of a shed roof does not have to be made at the same angle as the roof - the horizontal version is also easily implemented. And the first method is suitable for you only if the ceiling itself is very low, and every vertical centimeter is important to you, or if you plan to create a unique interior design.

Choosing the material for filing the ceiling

So, now is the time to decide on the material for sheathing the ceiling of a pitched roof.

Wood: from simplicity to sophistication

Wood for filing the ceiling of a shed roof is the best and most practical option. Affordable, durable and able to retain heat. This material always gives the room a special home comfort and a pleasant smell. Moreover, for your roof, you do not have to take a simple pine - get a cedar or mahogany for your home. Beautiful and stylish!

And it will be easier to deal with the boards: nail them perpendicular to the beams with the most common nails - that's all.

Lining: style and environmental friendliness

The frame for this sheathing is easiest to make from bars or a metal profile. Just fix the guides necessarily perpendicular to the lining direction:

Plywood: for outbuildings

You will have to tinker with plywood, and its appearance is not so hot. This option is more acceptable for a garage or a small outbuilding.

So, if you got plywood unlaminated, be sure to treat it with antiseptics. And in addition, you will have to make a frame of bars - so that all the edges fall just on the wood. Fix the sheets with self-tapping screws, and putty the seams. After all this, be sure to paint the ceiling.

OSB, fiberboard and MDF boards: durability

Today, a lot of finishing materials are produced from woodworking waste. They are affordable, and at the same time quite pleased with the quality. But the most valuable thing about them is that, thanks to its lamination, it is easy to care for such a ceiling. And the aesthetic appearance does not suffer - the imitation of natural wood turns out to be quite good, but it is not particularly visible from a distance.

Installation is also quite simple - do everything using the same technology as with plywood.

Plastic: moisture resistant

This low-cost, but inexpensive and convenient material. The ceiling turns out to be smooth, even and quite aesthetic, because plastic is produced today in the most incredible colors and textures. And most importantly, this material is the lightest of the listed, and at the same time has the greatest resistance to mold. And this is already a valuable moment for outbuildings.

Plastic is produced for filing the ceiling in the form of narrow strips, which are easily and quickly assembled independently. You can easily hold such a strip in your hands alone, and also easily nail it onto a frame made of timber using self-tapping screws. Take a step of 50 cm, and then fix a decorative plinth around the edges.

Stretch ceiling

This type of finish is ideal for a pitched roof. It can be mounted at any angle without any problems! Moreover, such a ceiling easily hides all the irregularities of the rough finish and communication. It serves up to 50 years.

And the most important advantage of such a finish is an almost invisible ceiling. Maximum - 2 cm!

And at the same time, the ceiling is not afraid of either dampness or mold, it is easy to install and additionally protects against accidental leaks.

Aquapanels

Working with this finishing material is as easy as with drywall. For him, it is not necessary to make waterproofing, because such a finish is not afraid of dampness and even direct contact with water.

Siding: unusual solutions

Siding is an exclusively outdoor material for finishing a house, and therefore they are only allowed to hem the ceiling to the roof of non-residential premises. For example, warehouse or workshop. But it will serve you longer than all other options.

You can apply both vinyl and modern metal siding for filing the ceiling. Vinyl is more flexible and affordable, is light in weight and has a branded clip-on profile. But the metal one is heavier and will be needed only if the roof itself is extremely unreliable and leaks, and for some reason you cannot change it.

Drywall: for residential premises

This is the most popular option for filing the ceiling. This material is so environmentally friendly that it is actively used both in residential premises and in warehouses.

But cheap drywall has serious disadvantages - low moisture resistance, warping from moisture and dampness. Of course, you can purchase more expensive sheets that are designed specifically for difficult microclimates.

What is good, suspended drywall sheets are easily attached directly to the frame.

We make a frame for fastening

So, once you have decided on the material of the ceiling sheathing, it's time to move on to making the frame for the filing.

Option #1 - metal slats

Attaching any facing material to such a frame is as easy as shelling pears: fireproof, lightweight, designed specifically for mounting. Today, metal slats for sheathing are made mainly from two types of metal - steel and aluminum, as well as a special “metal-like” alloy.

The rack structure is assembled easier than a children's toy, and in the end it turns out almost weightless:

But there are also significant drawbacks: corrosion from the slightest scratches and a complete lack of sound and heat insulation. And also all the wooden elements that are located above such a frame quickly deteriorate.

Option #2 - wooden slats

In its design, the wooden crate for the ceiling of a shed roof is similar to metal. The only difference is that wood, as a living material, is able to expand and contract more intensively depending on humidity and air temperature. In addition, the wood is deformed from moisture. Be sure to treat the bars that you use for the installation of wooden slats with fire protection.

In general, there are no contraindications to the use of wood in the arrangement of the ceiling of such a roof. Is it better to give preference to metal structures if you are finishing a sauna or bath.

You will need bars with a section from 20x40 to 80x40. In addition, the wood must also be treated with an antiseptic and an antifungal agent.

Choosing the right insulation

Now, before you start installing the ceiling, check your roofing cake.

And to begin with, answer this question for yourself: does your roof need insulation? The fact is that a shed roof just differs from a gable one in that there is much less heat loss through it, which is why many people leave it with a simple filing.

Let's say here it all depends on what material the roof is made of: if these are sip panels, for example, then they do not need any insulation, everything was thought out in advance, and if it is a simple crate with a metal profile as a roofing, then heat-insulating layer is needed.

For the rest, focus on which building will have a shed roof - residential or not. In a residential building, the air temperature is always higher than on the street, and in winter the heating also works. And, if the roof is not insulated, then the surface of its roofing will heat up, and the snow lying on it will begin to thaw. After that, it “creeps” to a colder cornice, where it will again be taken by an ice crust. Outcome: destroyed drains, huge icicles and gradual damage to the roof itself. But rooms such as a garage or a barn that are not heated do not promise such problems. Although there it will not be superfluous:

More recently, shed roofs were recommended to be insulated with clay concrete or cement-bonded slag. True, such insulation was not sufficient in itself, not to mention the fact that it could not resist rain and snow. But the modern construction market offers a lot of options!

These are insulation boards, processed cellulose, and even polyurethane foam. Working with them is simple, and the principle of insulation itself does not differ from the thermal insulation of a more traditional gable roof. The only difference is that there is no usual ridge here - only the connection of the roof with the walls, where one corner is obtuse and the other is sharp. With which, by the way, you have to tinker a little.

But the main task when insulating a pitched roof is to ensure ventilation of the insulation. After all, the water vapor of a residential building always rises, and not one of the vapor barrier films is able to retain condensate or steam at 100%. The maximum is 70-80%, and therefore it is important to make sure that droplets of moisture that accidentally fall into the insulation are immediately weathered. For this purpose, you can equip both natural and forced ventilation of the ceiling space. By the way, many modern heaters are already produced with metal foil on the inside, which additionally serves as a vapor barrier.

And the easiest way is to insulate the ceiling of a shed roof with polystyrene foam. You will need to either sit these plates on glue or mount them on metal slats. And what's good, you can easily use the same slats for interior cladding. Conveniently!

In general, the shed roof pie should be like this, starting from the top and going to the bottom: roofing, lathing, waterproofing, insulation, vapor barrier, filing. As you can see, absolutely nothing complicated, the main thing is not to confuse anything.

Ceiling installation step by step

The only thing you have to suffer a little with is the sharp angle of the shed roof to the wall. It is almost impossible to insert plates into it so that there are no cold bridges left. Therefore, we recommend that you squeeze out the foam inside the corner, or push in more scraps of the insulation that you use. As an option - sawdust that has been caked for a year (but not fresh), or the same ecowool, which is specially treated with boron in the factory.

Stage 1. Preparation

Clean the roof sheathing from the inside of cobwebs or dirt. If you use wooden slats, bring them into the room 2-3 days before the start of work. This is an important point in the acclimatization of wood to the temperature and humidity conditions.

Stage 2. Calculation

All wooden or metal bars you will need to fix on the ceiling surface at a certain interval. This is exactly what needs to be calculated in advance. In addition, it is at this stage that you need to decide what kind of slope you will do.

Now find the lowest point of the existing draft ceiling, step back down to the height of the thickness of the bars, communications and thermal insulation, and put a mark there. So you have found that starting point, according to which you will level the entire ceiling, or rather, orient it. Using marks or a laser level, draw a line along the entire perimeter of the walls, and be sure to check its horizontalness.

If you are arranging the ceiling at the same angle as the shed roof itself, then measure the distance from this point that you found to the roof itself, but do not draw anything along the perimeter. Go to the opposite wall and there measure the same distance from the ceiling. Naturally, the second point will be much higher than the first. Now you can draw a line around the perimeter, starting from these two points, and it will no longer be horizontal, but repeating the line of the shed roof itself.

Stage 3. Markup

Divide the wooden bars into 2 parts: one will go to the perimeter of the ceiling, and the rest to create the inner crate. And now everything will depend on what kind of material you will sheathe the ceiling. If these are sheets of plywood or drywall, their joints will have to fall strictly on parts of the crate, in the middle of the bars.

With lining and wooden boards - the same thing, but in any case, the distance between two rows of slats should not exceed 60 cm. In addition, make the direction of the slats so that they are perpendicular to the direction of the attached file. Another important requirement: all slats must be parallel to each other, regardless of the slope of the ceiling itself.

Now mark the ceiling (if possible) for the places of future rails. Check: you should get even long lines that are parallel to each other.

Stage 4. Waterproofing

If you didn’t lay a waterproofing film at the construction stage of a shed roof, now is the time! You can fix it on construction tape or a stapler. Just lay its strips overlapping and be sure to glue all the joints.

We advise you not to use cheap films for these purposes, as for greenhouses - they are of little use. Today on sale you can find much more intelligent waterproofing, anti-condensation and perforated, which removes excess moisture.

Stage 5. Installation of rails

First of all, we mount the rails, which are located along the perimeter of the ceiling. At the same time, fasten the bars directly to the ceiling if you have a hemming system without insulation, and to the walls if it is suspended.

Use dowels with nails for fastening if the walls are made of concrete or brick, or self-tapping screws if we are talking about wooden walls, or you are attaching the crate directly to the roof. The optimal fastening step is 40-60 cm, and no more than 20 cm from the walls.

Now proceed to the installation of internal rails. To do this, between opposite walls, at the level of the perimeter bars, pull a thread or wire, 2-3 pieces in different places. It will serve as a beacon for you, by which you will align all the other bars. So the crate of the ceiling will turn out perfectly flat.

If any rail protrudes, re-tighten it, or tighten the fixing rods more tightly.

Stage 6. Filling - communications and isolation

Now, when the "skeleton" of the shed roof ceiling is ready, it's time to fill it. So, in the ceiling, you must first hide the wiring by enclosing the cables in special non-combustible channels.

If necessary, we put a heater, resting it on bars or metal slats. After that, we must fix the vapor barrier on the outside - a special film that will protect the internal contents of the ceiling from water vapor.

Stage 7. Sheathing

That's all! Now let's move on to the trim. The choice is yours!

In the construction of a residential building, shed roofs are used infrequently. Such types of roofs are popular in the construction of buildings such as baths, garages, utility blocks, verandas and many other house adjoining structures. However, among architects there is an opinion that this approach is not correct. They believe that developers in vain neglect the construction and insulation of shed roofs, because they have a number of characteristic advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of pitched roofs

Much less often than modern heaters, heaters made from natural materials such as flax, straw, algae, etc. are used.

The disadvantages of these heaters are their high cost and rather short service life.

Types of thermal insulation materials

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is one of the most commonly used thermal insulation materials. In terms of its properties, such a material is similar to polystyrene, which is why these two materials are often confused with each other: the material has a low weight, low cost, and high environmental qualities.

Installing polystyrene foam on a surface to be insulated is quite simple, you can do it yourself without the involvement of professionals or the use of special equipment. Due to its structure with a large number of air chambers, expanded polystyrene will effectively protect the house from heat loss.

Among the most popular manufacturers of expanded polystyrene are Penoplex and TechnoNIKOL.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not inferior in popularity to expanded polystyrene, it is often used both for insulation of residential buildings and for thermal insulation of household structures. Despite the excellent thermal insulation qualities, mineral wool has a significant drawback - it is subject to moisture accumulation. In addition, the weight of mineral wool is greater than the weight of expanded polystyrene. Mounting it is quite simple, just lay the sheets between the wooden rafters of the ceiling.

Ecowool

Ecowool, or cellulose wadding, is often used in the West, in Russia it is rarely used. In terms of its insulating qualities, ecowool is similar to mineral wool. It is produced from the processing of cellulose and waste paper. There are two types of material on sale: in bulk form or in the form of sprayed insulation. In addition to high thermal insulation properties, lightness, accessibility and ease of installation, ecowool has noise and vibration insulation functions. In addition, the service life of ecowool is quite large.

Penoizol

Penoizol is practically an analogue of expanded polystyrene. The advantages include its incombustibility, impermeability and the fact that it does not melt under the influence of high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself installation of insulation on a pitched roof

The way in which it is necessary to mount the insulation directly depends on the heat-insulating material. Most heaters are installed on the roof quite simply, without the help of specialists or professional equipment.

In the event that you have chosen ecowool as a heater, it is necessary to take a special pump with an air blower to spray it on the insulated coating. In order to make the work more economical, such equipment can be rented.

In order to fix the material in the form of plates on the surface, clamps with a large area are needed. Using them, you securely fix the insulation. In this way, mineral wool is mounted.

You can start the installation of thermal insulation both from the inside and from the outside of the roof. The waterproofing layer is laid outside:

• The first step in performing thermal insulation work will be the installation of waterproofing. How long and effectively the insulation will serve directly depends on high-quality waterproofing materials. Waterproofing should be laid on the entire surface to be insulated. Membrane sheets must be laid overlapping each other by approximately 100-150 mm.

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

Ask an expert

Important! Before you start installing the insulation itself directly, pay attention to its packaging. Before starting work, it must be opened. For example, when using mineral wool, you should be more careful. On the construction market, mineral wool layers are supplied in compressed form in packages, after opening the mineral wool increases in size. With this method of packaging, its insulating properties are better preserved.

• To determine what width of insulation to use, measure the distance between adjacent floor rafters. It is recommended to lay the insulation to a width greater than the pitch of the rafters by 30 mm. Thus, you protect the surface from the formation of voids and cracks, as well as fix the material more tightly.
• The last step will be the installation of a vapor barrier layer. This layer will protect the insulation from moisture penetration. Otherwise, if you skip the vapor barrier layer, the moisture rising from the inside of the house will accumulate in the insulation. This, in turn, leads to a deterioration in its thermal insulation qualities. It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside of a residential building, because it is from below that water vapor rises to the top. The sheets of the vapor barrier membrane must be overlapped, fixing the joints and points of contact with the surface using construction tape.

Repair of damaged roofing

The most effective way would be to replace the material in the damaged area, regardless of the type of roof (slate, soft tiles, corrugated board or other types). However, it is difficult to perform such work quickly and without outside help, so you can resort to laying new material on top of the damaged one or sealing the damaged area. Places where there are holes from the use of nails or other minor damage can also be sealed, for example, by soldering a small piece of Bicroelast.

Concrete roof insulation

In the event that reinforced concrete slabs act as the base of the roofs (in garages or boiler rooms), then it is recommended to lay the insulation on the outside of the structure. In this case, a foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm can be a heat-insulating material, on top of which a concrete screed is mounted.

In doing this, some preparatory work should be carried out. The concrete surface must be treated, cleaned of various kinds of dirt and dust. The gaps between concrete slabs are covered with mounting foam or fiberglass is used. After all the preparatory work has been completed, heat-insulating material - foam plastic is laid. It is recommended to lay the insulation in two layers so that the joints of the upper and lower do not coincide, and the foam plates are overlapped. To fix the foam, use a construction film.

The last layer of the "roofing pie" is a waterproofing membrane, which is stretched over the insulation. The best option for waterproofing in terms of price and practicality is built-up roofing.

Summing up

One of the most important criteria for the effectiveness of thermal insulation is its competent installation. Most of the losses of thermal energy of various buildings and structures occur precisely through the roof, so it is necessary to be puzzled by the issue of its thermal insulation in the very first place. Otherwise, if technological requirements are violated during work, during operation the roofing itself may deteriorate, which will lead to its dismantling and huge financial costs.

Step by step video on how to insulate a flat roof

The issue of insulating various pitched roofs today is especially relevant. Rising energy prices are forcing private home owners to reconsider their approach to roof construction. After all, it is through it that up to 30% of heat escapes. And even well-conducted thermal insulation of the floor is not a guarantee that heat losses are completely eliminated. Particular attention is paid to the thermal insulation of mansard roofs, where the roof structure additionally performs the functions of a protective structure, that is, walls.

Thermal insulation of the attic roof from the inside with mineral wool

Roof insulation

It is necessary to start dealing with the insulation of pitched roofs with heat-insulating materials. They are represented on the market by a fairly wide range, but only four are used for roofs:

• mineral wool boards are mineral wool pressed into mats;
• polystyrene boards;
• polyurethane foam;
• ecowool.

Which heater to choose

Mineral wool boards

This is a material made from rocks that are heated, melted and pulled into threads. The latter in the material itself are in a chaotic state.

As for the specifications:

• thermal conductivity - 0.042 W / m K;
• density - from 50 to 200 kg / m 3;
• 100% environmental friendliness;
• ease of laying by hand;
• service life of 50 years;
• combustibility class - NG (non-combustible).

Mineral wool mats

Styrofoam boards

This is expanded polystyrene, whose structure is closed balls filled with air. At the same time, air occupies 90% of the volume, which reduces the weight of the insulation and its thermal conductivity.

Specifications:

• thermal conductivity - 0.034-0.044 W / m K;
• density - 25-45 kg / m 3;
• combustibility class - G3 (burns and supports combustion);
• environmental friendliness is high;
• installation method - manual;
• service life - 20 years.

It should be noted that the higher the density of the insulation, the higher its thermal conductivity.

Expanded polystyrene boards

polyurethane foam

This is a foamed mass that hardens in air, turning into a durable seamless coating. In fact, this is mounting foam, only modified. The insulation itself of this type is a two-component material. Its ingredients are mixed in a special container and supplied under pressure through a hose and a nozzle to insulated surfaces.

Specifications:

• thermal conductivity - 0.019-0.028 W / m K;
• density - 55 kg / m 3;
• flammability class - G2;
• service life - 80 years;
• environmental friendliness is high;
• installation method - requires special equipment.

Polyurethane foam is applied to the attic roof

Ecowool

This insulation is pure cellulose made from wood. Looks like cotton wool. Here are its characteristics:

• thermal conductivity - 0.038 W / m K;
• density - 40-45 kg / m 3;
• combustibility class - G1 (low combustible);
• service life - 100 years;
• laying method - using equipment;
• environmental friendliness - 100%.

Ecowool - 100% natural insulation

Comparative analysis

It is incorrect to do such an analysis of insulation for roofs (different pitched roofs). Each material has its pros and cons. In addition, the price is different, and the method of installation varies greatly. For example, polyurethane foam is better than others in terms of its thermal characteristics. But it cannot be applied to the roof without special equipment. And this increases the already high price.

In this regard, mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards are the best option. They are easier to install and are inexpensive. But their service life is short.

Price comparison:

And another criterion by which insulation can be compared is the thickness of the layer being laid. Here are the positions:

• mineral wool - 214 mm;
• foamed polystyrene - 120-150 mm;
• foamed polyurethane - 50-100 mm;
• ecowool - 150-200 mm.

Comparison of building materials in terms of thickness and thermal characteristics

Pitched roof insulation technology

The insulation of mansard gable roofs is very different from the thermal insulation of single-pitched roofs. Because the latter have a small attic space, hence the difficulties of carrying out work from the inside. They are transferred outside from the side of the roofing. At the same time, we immediately indicate that polyurethane foam is not used in a single-pitched structure.

Thermal insulation of a pitched roof

So, how to properly insulate a shed roof:

1. Along the rafters, along the ends, at the lower edges, the so-called cranial slats are stuffed along.
2. Between the rafter legs, boards or any durable slab or sheet material are laid on the slats: plywood, chipboard, OSB, etc. The legs are fastened with self-tapping screws. Niches are formed.
3. A vapor barrier membrane is laid on the rafter system. Installation is carried out in strips with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joint is closed with a self-adhesive tape. Laying should be carried out so that the film covers the niches, emphasizing their shape.
4. Insulation is being installed in niches.
5. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the rafters in the same way as a vapor barrier, only stretched without sagging. Fastening to the rafters with staples from a stapler.
6. Lathing installation.
7. Installation of roofing material.

As you can see, warming a pitched roof is not the most difficult process, so it’s realistic to do it yourself even for a person who is far from the construction industry.

Shed roof construction with insulation

Gable roof insulation

There are two possible situations here:

1. The roof is already covered with roofing material.
2. Not yet covered.

Let's start with the second case because it's easier.

1. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the rafter legs in strips. Laying method - overlap with additional fastening of the joint with adhesive tape. The laying direction is horizontal from the eaves to the ridge. It is not necessary to pull strongly, a slight sag will provide thermal expansion or contraction of the material.
2. A counter-lattice is stuffed along the waterproofing - these are bars laid along the rafters (along). They create a ventilation gap between the roofing and the insulation cake.
3. The crate is stuffed.
4. Roofing material is being installed.
5. The rest of the processes are transferred to the attic (attic).
6. A slab insulation is laid between the elements of the truss system. The layer (thickness) of the latter should be equal to the width of the rafters.
7. The entire pitched plane is covered with a vapor barrier membrane in the same way as with a waterproofing film on top.
8. Panel or sheet finishing is mounted: plywood, drywall, lining, etc.

Laying waterproofing on rafters

If polyurethane foam is chosen as the heat-insulating material, then all work from the inside of the attic comes down to applying foam to the pitched plane of the roof structure. The main task is the uniformity of the applied material.

If ecowool is chosen as thermal insulation, then first a vapor barrier layer is installed from the side of the attic along the rafter system. Then holes are made in it, where a hose is inserted, supplying insulation into the space between the rafters. Thus, all areas between the rafter legs are filled. Subsequently, the holes made are sealed with tape.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the installation of ecowool is carried out using wet and dry technology. The first is when water is added to the material. In the case of pitched roof insulation, dry technology is used.

Backfilling of ecowool in the space between two films

If the roof is already covered with roofing material

Here, the technology of thermal insulation differs little from the previous one. The peculiarity lies in the fact that all work is carried out from the inside of the attic. And the main distinguishing feature is waterproofing, which is applied in strips along the rafter legs with the film recessed into the formed niches. To make it clear what is at stake, look at the photo, which shows how waterproofing should be laid and fastened.

Waterproofing membrane laid from the inside of the attic on the roof slope

All other operations are carried out according to the technology described above. That is:

1. The slab insulation is being laid.
2. Installation of vapor barrier film.
3. Interior decoration of the attic.

If polyurethane foam is used, then it is simply applied to the rafter legs covered with a film. If ecowool is used, then a vapor barrier layer is laid, and the space between the two protective layers is filled with insulation.

Thermal insulation technology of a hipped roof

The process of warming a four-slope hip roof or hipped roof does not differ in any way from the thermal insulation of a gable roof. These are all the same slopes, only there are not two, but four. It just increases the amount of work being done.

The only negative point regarding plate heat insulators is a large amount of their waste. It's all in the shape of the slopes. It is trapezoid and triangular at the hip roof, and only triangular at the hip roof. This means that in places where the structure is narrowed, thermal insulation materials will have to be cut.

This does not apply to polyurethane foam and ecowool. Here, the flow rate does not change, and it corresponds to the area of ​​​​the insulated pitched areas.

What are the points to pay attention to

Despite the seeming simplicity of the operations, there are many nuances in them, on which the quality of the final result depends. And for those who decide to conduct insulation on their own, it is recommended not to miss these important points:

• Before starting work, all wooden components and parts must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. First, the first is applied, after drying the second. The antiseptic composition is a protection against biological influences (microorganisms: mold, fungi). Flame retardant - protection against fire. That is, if a fire starts, the wood will not immediately catch fire, it will take several minutes.

Treatment of rafters with an antiseptic

• The roofing material is waterproofed. Its purpose is to prevent leaks, if any, to penetrate into the insulation pie. The second purpose is to prevent moisture from passing through itself, which has formed in the layer of heat-insulating material.
• A vapor barrier membrane is still the same film, similar to a waterproofing one. But it is denser and does not let steam (moist air vapor). Therefore, its main task is to close the insulation layer with itself so that moisture coming from the interior of the building and passing through the ceiling cannot penetrate into it. But even with very careful installation, small gaps remain in the vapor barrier layer through which steam enters the insulation. To prevent it from remaining there, waterproofing is laid on top. It is important not to confuse the two materials with each other. Otherwise, the heat-insulating cake will quickly lose its properties. This mainly applies to ecowool and some models of mineral wool.
• If you decide to use polyurethane foam as a heater, and do the whole process yourself, then it is recommended to purchase a mini-installation consisting of two cylinders into which components are pumped under pressure. When leaving the tanks, they are mixed in a special mixer of small sizes. And already through a hose with a nozzle, the foam is fed out. Manufacturers today offer installations with different volumes of cylinders, with different speeds of work. This equipment is reusable, just after the ingredients are used up, they are poured into containers. And you can continue to work.
• If expanded polystyrene boards were used as a heater, then they can not be covered with a vapor barrier film. This insulation is not afraid of even a large amount of water.
• Ideally, fill the space between the rafter legs completely, both in width and in depth.

If a decision is made to insulate the roof of your own house, then this process should not be shelved. The main thing is to decide on the choice of thermal insulation. And the operation itself is simple. Strictly follow the steps, and the high quality of the final result will be guaranteed.