Installation of windows in accordance with GOST: ptrue and ... not entirely true
Having made the decision to install a plastic window, you are thoughtful when choosing a company: availability own production and certified products guarantee that the window will be of high quality. But 70% of a durable window is its installation.
What is "installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST"?
Installation (installation) of a plastic window is regulated by several documents:
■ GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks made of polyvinyl chloride profiles", Art. nine;
■ GOST 30971-2012 “Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions ";
■ GOST R 52749-2007 "Window assembly seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes".
If you want to comply with the GOST requirements during installation, make sure that the contract specifies in compliance with which GOST the window will be installed. The fact is that:
1. GOST R 52749-2007 applicable only when installed using vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing strips (PSUL). If the installation of the plastic window was carried out without PSUL (and the use of PSUL is not stipulated in the contract), the application of the requirements of this GOST in a dispute is incorrect.
2. GOST 30971-2012 “Assembly seams of joints of window blocks adjoining wall openings. The document is valid, but for additional application. Better to put it this way: The document is valid regulatory ..., however, its application is optional (voluntary).In confirmation of this -Rosstandart Order No. 1983 Art. from 27.12.2007
All questions in this article will be considered on the basis of GOST 30971-2012, since GOST 30674-99 (Art. 9) contains too general instructions, and GOST R 52749-2007 was created on the basis of GOST 30971-2002, after which GOST 30971-2012 was adopted... In addition, most contractors refer specifically to GOST 30971-2012.
If the contractor claims to be installing in accordance with GOST, he is obliged to comply with the requirements of GOST, and draw up his documentation in accordance with the requirements and recommendations of GOST.
GOST 30971-2012 (hereinafter simply GOST) contains requirements, recommendations and examples. Note, however, that GOST 30971-2012 was introduced on January 1, 2014 for “ voluntaryapplication in Russian Federation as a national standard of the Russian Federation ". Voluntary means not requiring mandatory certification.
So, GOST contains:
■ Requirements for the properties of filling the assembly seam.
■ Requirements for the dimensions of the mounting gap.
■ Requirements for the dimensions of the window opening.
■ Requirements for the surfaces of the window opening.
■ Requirements for securing the window structure.
■ General requirements for the performance of work.
■ Warranty obligations contractor.
Seam filling
The GOST requirements for the assembly seam are reduced to two points:
1. The seam must be resistant to various operational influences and loads (paragraph 5.1.5.).
2. The seam must be warm, soundproof, steam and waterproof (5.1.3.).
GOST conventionally divides the seam into three layers: outer, central and inner. The outer one prevents water from entering the seam and ensures the removal of steam from the seam, the central one is heat insulating, the inner one provides vapor barrier.Note that the vapor barrier tape in this GOST is considered as one of possible options the outer seam (clause A.2.5), along with a vapor-permeable sealant (A.2.4), plaster mortars (A.2.6.). No matter how carefully you study GOST, you will not find in it requirements for the mandatory use of PSUL and vapor barrier tape. Also in this GOST it is noted that in “in cases of using tapes to seal mounting gaps building structuresdesigned for operation with increased wind loads (for example, in high-rise construction) and other loads, sealing tapes should be used in a set with protective overhead profiles (strip strips).
Outer layer (example from GOST):
Figure: one
Where 1 - polyurethane foam, 2 - PSUL.
Central layer.It makes no sense to dwell on this part of the seam, since the neat and unhurried foaming of the assembly gap ensures the required seam quality and meets all the requirements of GOST.
Inner layer.The use of a vapor barrier tape recommended by GOST (there are other methods of vapor barrier, but more on them later) makes sense and performs the functions assigned to it, but ... only when building a house.
The fact is that the materials for the inner layer, according to GOST (clause 4.3), “vapor barrier materials along the inner contour of the mounting gap must be laid continuously, without gaps, breaks and non-glued areas. In other words, changing the windows in accordance with GOST, it is necessary to achieve the appropriate surface of the window opening in the section " Technical requirements"(P. 5.2.3, p. 5.2.4 and 5.3.)
Size requirements
First, the contractor must provide you with working drawings of the abutment nodes with the specified dimensions of the gaps. If the opening meets the requirements of the joint venture, the dimensions of the installation gap recommended by GOST are observed automatically, but ... In buildings built after 1953, you can forget about observing the depth of a quarter. What is “quarter depth” follows from the name: a quarter of a brick is equal to 60-65 mm. In real buildings, the depth of a quarter can be up to 150 mm. This means that it is not always possible to keep the dimensions of the gaps within the limits of the GOST recommendations.
Therefore, in order to comply with the requirements and recommendations of GOST, it is necessary to bring the window opening in accordance withSP 50.13330.2012 (currently in force, and not during the construction of the building): plastering, bricking, etc. Or design and approve (in competent organizations) the appropriate technical solutions for the assembly seam.
More? It is necessary to plaster.
About the surface of the opening
Once again, I note: compliance with GOST is relevant when building a new residential building. You can put three-chamber windows (without looking atSP 50.13330.2012 ), check the masonry of the opening, arrange all the necessary technical solutions, etc., but when replacing the old window with a plastic one, unfortunately, no.
It's no secret that plastic windows are most often installed when the old ones become unusable. That is, about 30-40 years after the house was commissioned. When dismantling an old window, bricks, parts facade slab (destroyed by weathering) crumble and chipped off. And according to GOST, “The edges and surfaces of external and internal slopes should not have gouges, sinks, mortar overflows and other damage with a height (depth) of more than 10 mm. Defective spots must be filled with waterproof compounds ... "And also:" When repairing objects and replacing window blocks ... the surfaces of internal and external slopes should be leveled with plaster mortar without the formation of thermal bridges. "
In addition, recall the point about the vapor barrier tape and its adhesion strength and get: after dismantling old frame it is necessary to clear the opening from old plaster, re-plaster, dry, prime, dry and, only after that, carry out the installation.
Anchoring (fixing) a plastic window
When installing a plastic window according to the recommendations of GOST, you need to carefully monitor the number and location of fasteners. For a double-leaf window (the most popular configuration is one blind sash, one swing-out sash), according to GOST, 14 anchors are required (see Fig. 2), which, in my opinion, is redundant and installed in order to neutralize mistakes and carelessness of builders and manufacturers plastic windows... In addition, it is necessary to adjust the type of fasteners used depending on the material and walls and their condition (see below: "Diagnostics of the condition of the walls").
Figure: 2.
General requirements for the performance of work
In addition to all of the above, the company that produces installation in accordance with GOST must have model instruction for the installation of window blocks (and now attention) developed for a window company by competent organizations and agreed with regional bodies construction management.
About inspection of heating and ventilation systems, condition and design features walls (necessary when carrying out work in accordance with GOST) you can not even mention, how can you not mention the compliance of the newly installed structures with the architectural design of the building.
Have you heard about organizations that test materials for the assembly seam and the seam itself, which, according to GOST, must be carried out regularly? If you know - write, I will be grateful.
And, if we talk about full compliance with GOSTs and SPs, the window must comply with the design documentation. In other words, the window configuration must correspond to the one specified in the building design, or the window sketch must be agreed with the authors of the architectural design.
Now about time ... and money
The cost of installing a double-leaf window in compliance with all the requirements and recommendations of GOST (mentioned above) cannot be less than 30 thousand rubles. This window costs about the same in european countries... Were you promised installation in accordance with GOST for only 9 thousand? ..
How to interpret and apply the requirements of GOST?
It is possible to approach GOST from several sides. You can follow the letter of GOST with the fulfillment of all requirements and the appropriate documentary support. And you can not look at GOST and mount it as it turns out (for example, fix a plastic window with foam only, without anchors - this is also the case).
But there is also an intermediate option: focus on GOST, but at the same time critically evaluate its requirements and recommendations, taking into account that 10-20 years from the moment of its development to today (and the new GOST is only a slightly modified old one) and installation technologies and the plastic windows themselves have gone far ahead, and Russia is a huge country with a wide range of climatic conditions.
GOST in real conditions
Let's start with the window requirements. According toSP 50.13330.2012 "Thermal protection of buildings" (hereinafter simply SP), in climatic conditions Siberia, it is possible to use window structures from a five-chamber (and higher) window profile... Three-chamber windows (even with the use of low-emission glass and with filling the chambers of the double-glazed unit with argon) do not pass in terms of thermophysical characteristics. It would seem, what does this have to do with it? But for a five-chamber window, the mounting width is greater and this causes certain difficulties when installing the mounting seam.
If you are installing a high-quality energy-efficient plastic window (with a profile width of 70 mm or more), assembly seam will differ from the GOST example (see Fig. 3): when foaming, non-foamed cavities (3) will form in the corner zone near the PSUL (1) (it is impossible to control their foaming), and this violates thermal insulation properties assembly seam and leads to its freezing, and in extreme cases - and to blowing.
Attempt to pave large quantity foam into this space causes the PSUL foam to squeeze out. Vapor-permeable putties will not be considered, since in our climate (temperature range from -45 to +40, and on the frame - up to +60), significant thermal changes in the size of the window block are observed, the putty is chipped and crumbled.
Figure: 3.
One possible alternative installation method
1. Filling the assembly seam.
The requirements of GOST (if not literally, but in essence) can be expressed as follows: the seam must be warm, moisture must not get into it, both outside and from the room (expansion of water when freezing destroys the foam) and the moisture there must have the ability to leave the seam. Based on this conclusion, the following seam pattern is possible (see Fig. 4).
Figure: 4.
In this case, the seam filling technology is as follows. After fixing the structure, the first layer of foam is laid (1). After the completion of foaming, the first layer of the entire perimeter is applied to the second layer of foam (2). The next stage is foaming the gap between the quarter and the PVC window (3), after which the seam is closed from the outside with the outer plastic corner (4). This allows you to achieve dense foaming of the seam with a uniform fine-pored foam structure (i.e. avoid large bubbles, which is inevitable when foaming in one pass).
Such installation of plastic windows allows achieving the basic requirements of GOST: outside corner (4) prevents water from entering the seam, but leaves the possibility of steam release from the seam. The sandwich panel is vapor-tight and prevents moisture from entering the seam from the side of the room. In addition, the frame of the plastic window is separated from the wall by a layer of foam on all sides, which makes it possible to fully realize the heat-saving functions of the profile.
2. Dimensions of the mounting gap.
If the quarters are made in accordance with the joint venture, the gaps recommended by GOST are observed automatically, but:
■ Firstly, the depth of a quarter is found out only after dismantling the old window, while the PVC window has already been made.
■ Secondly, it is undesirable to put a plastic window frame deeper than 30 mm into a quarter - places on exterior decoration no assembly seam remains.
■ Third, minimum size (according to GOST it is 20 mm) the mounting gap cannot be foamed with high quality. In addition, the foam should damp (soften, level) temperature changes in the frame dimensions, and this gap does not allow this.
■ Finally, GOST (p. 5.3.1) allows you to increase the size of the mounting gap. True, with filling it with "... inserts of rigid insulation ..." However, no one will allow registering such a seam design.
I mentioned above about the size of the “quarter” in our houses.
Thus, when measuring windows, the craftsmen almost always start from the depth of the frame in a quarter (and the experience gained from their mistakes). And if the gap exceeds the recommended GOST, it is the fault of the builders, “the circumstances, which can be found out when measuring, without dismantling old construction, impossible. " In addition, with proper fastening (you need to choose the appropriate anchor) and foaming the plastic window, an increase in the installation gap to 80-85 mm does not affect the quality of the seam. sash and high wind loads. In addition, it should be remembered that in brick houses fastening from above is made into a lintel and the more holes there are, the more likely it will be destroyed ...
4. Documentary registration of works.
Most often, it is limited to sketches of structures with a list of works, a work contract and an act of work performed. And this is explained quite simply. To take responsibility for the dimensions of the structure, installation features by signing the approval act, you, as a customer, will not agree, as you will not agree to limit warranty cases by signing acts hidden works... There can be no question of coordinating the configuration of the window with the architects either, because you need a plastic window that is convenient for you, and not what the architect came up with 30-50 years ago, but in a plastic version.
5. About the guarantee.
A small incident: according to GOST 30674-99, the guarantee for plastic windows must be at least 3 years from the date of shipment of products; according to GOST 30971-2012, the guarantee for the seam is at least 5 years.
But the installed plastic window is a window complex with an assembly seam. And the warranty is established most often on the window, that is, 3 years from the date of completion of the installation. After all, a window without a seam can exist, but vice versa - in no way. In addition, in three years, all installation defects will have time to manifest themselves, and for the appearance of defects due to builders' mistakes (changing the size or configuration of the opening, etc.) this time is not enough. True, here you need to ensure that the guarantee in the contract applies not only to the structures, but also to the assembly seam (installation work).
And at the end of the article I want to say that no matter what slogans your contractor uses, the quality and durability of installation depends on 90% of the hands that make this installation ...
P.S. This article is analytical. It is based on the analysis and synthesis of industry-specific regulatory documents (GOST and SP) and its author's own practical experience in resolving disputes regarding the quality of installation (installation) of plastic windows. The article does not claim to be the ultimate truth.
If you have any questions, comments, remarks or you are ready to tell us about controversial points from your practice, please send them by e-mail: ... We will be happy to discuss this with you.
Head of Sales Department
lOKA S.V. Salnikov.
Copying and reproduction of this material without notifying the copyright holder is permissible only when placing an active link on your site on
Thus, the insulation must somehow be protected from the penetration of direct moisture or water vapor into it, and for the moisture that has nevertheless got into the insulation, it must be ensured that it can evaporate outside so that none of the described problems threaten the assembly seam. For this, special vapor barrier and waterproof vapor-permeable materials have been created, which we produce. The first ones are installed from inside the room and prevent the penetration of moisture contained in the room air into the installation seam, that is, to the insulation. The latter are installed outside. These materials protect the insulation from direct moisture (water) from the outside. And also, which is very important, being vapor-permeable, they ventilate the inner part of the assembly seam, allowing it to breathe. Thus, condensed water is removed from the joint, or water vapor that has got there from the inside of the wall - (from its condensate plane). Stagnant processes inside the insulation are eliminated, figuratively speaking, it "breathes out". This mechanism of action special materials to protect the main element of the assembly seam - insulation from the harmful effects of moisture.
However, moisture is not all that insulation and the entire assembly seam can suffer from. Let's dwell on two factors that have the most critical impact after humidity.
In second place is ultraviolet solar radiation... This radiation destroys the insulation (polyurethane foam, used in almost 100% of window installations) in a very short period of time. So, in southern regions In Russia, the process of almost complete destruction of polyurethane foam can occur in a couple of months. IN middle lane it will take a year and a half, depending on the cardinal direction, where the window structure is facing.
Conclusion - the insulation must be protected from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. The problem is successfully solved by the same vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, which protects the insulation from direct impact water from the street.
In third place is the linear expansion (movement) of the window structure due to temperature fluctuations (thermal expansion). And such movements are significant and can reach from 5 to 10, and in some cases even 15 percent of the width of the assembly seam itself! At the same time, the insulation does not suffer, since it is well resistant to deformation loads and, moreover, is glued to the wall and window frame. It is clear that the means of its protection must be resistant to such colossal deformations.
Imagine if you apply plaster mortar or solid sealant - at what point will it collapse, or will it come off the smooth plane of the plastic window frame? (GOST allows the use of certain types of acrylic sealants to protect the outer contour. These must be elastic (not drying to the end), vapor-permeable materials with good adhesive properties). Here again the same vapor-permeable waterproofing tape successfully solves the problem, since it is not afraid of 15 and even 30 percent shifts.
Before moving on to issues directly related to the installation of windows, it is necessary to clearly define what regulatory documents govern the implementation of these types of work.
The following documents contain the most detailed description of the installation of windows and the requirements for them:
- GOST 30674-99. Contains general information about "Blocks of PVC window profiles" and the requirements for them. Almost nothing is said directly about the installation.
- GOST R52749-2007. Contains information on the installation of window blocks using PSUL (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape).
- GOST 30971-2012. A revised and modernized standard, introduced on 1.01.2014, instead of the outdated GOST 30971-2002, which in most cases was guided earlier.
At the end of the normative part, the following should be noted. The listed regulations, like most others, not directly related to security, are valid, but not binding. However, following the GOST rules when installing window structures with your own hands, or when purchasing with installation, will allow you to achieve the quality of the work performed.
GOST 30971-2012 describes in sufficient detail the requirements for the device and filling of seams, the size window openings and clearances for installation, as well as types of fastening structures. In addition, the general requirements to the execution of work, registration necessary documentation and minimum warranties.
DIY installation instructions
Measurements
The width and height of the existing window opening is measured. The window dimensions are determined as follows:
- Width is the measured width of the opening minus double the width of the mounting gap;
- The height is calculated in the same way. The minimum gap width in accordance with GOST is 20 mm. In calculations, 25-30 mm are usually taken.
Quite often, in brick houses, the window opening is arranged using an outer quarter. In this case, the measurement is performed on the outside.
- The width is equal to the obtained width between quarters plus the size of the frame factory by a quarter (according to GOST - from 25 to 40 mm.);
- The height is equal to the measured distance from the low tide to the upper quarter with the addition of the size of the plant on the upper quarter (according to GOST also from 25 to 40 mm.)
Mounting method (according to GOST)
- Directly through the frame in the mounting plane. The most frequently used option, which requires preliminary dismantling of double-glazed windows from fixed doors and prefabricated swing doors.
- With the use of fittings built into the frame during manufacture. The structure is assembled entirely, which requires skills and qualifications due to the considerable mass.
Preparing for installation
After the manufacture and delivery of window structures, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, namely:
- clear space in front of the window;
- remove furniture;
- walls, floors and everything available designs cover with foil or thick cloth;
- if necessary, dismantle the sashes from the frame (when installing through the frame);
- fill (preferably, a day before installation) with heat-insulating foam the inner cavity of the support profile. This process, not mentioned in GOST and often not performed by builders, is performed to prevent the formation of a cold bridge in the place where the profile is attached to the frame.
Installation of a window from a PFC profile
- Lay wooden blocks or plastic substrates from below on the end of the window opening.
- Install a frame or the entire prefabricated structure on them (depending on the type of attachment). The supports remain part of structures for its greater reliability and stability.
- Pegs are driven in from the upper side between the window and the wall. They secure the frame from the sides.
- Then you need to check the horizontal structure. If required, execute required alignment addition of substrates.
- Check the verticality of the structure, make adjustments if necessary.
- Secure the frame in one of two ways:
- drilling through the holes prepared in the frame in advance, with a punch, mounting holes in the wall, followed by inserting and securing the anchors. It must be remembered that you first need to drill the lower holes, securing the lower part of the structure; then drill and bait the middle and upper part fastening. At the end, check the structure for verticality and horizontalness and secure it completely;
- bending the fastening ears to fit them as tightly as possible to the wall, drill an anchor hole in the wall and fix the anchor. Also start at the bottom of the attachment structures, then move up. Whenever possible, check the correct position of the window structures as often as possible.
Plumbing installation
Usually, from the outside of the window structure, there is a groove for installing a drainage system. According to the requirements of GOST, it must be necessarily foamed during installation, it is also allowed to additionally fasten it with screws to create greater structural reliability.
Checking and assembling the window
After finishing the installation of anchors and draining, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical position of the installation once again. Then you need to assemble the structures (if necessary), which is performed in the reverse order of disassembly, with the installation of all fittings, handles, stops, etc.
Filling the gaps
The process takes place with tightly closed doors and is performed almost always polyurethane foam made of polyurethane. It should be remembered that expanded polyurethane foam is a proven material with a long history of use, however, it also has certain disadvantages. In particular, it is not sufficiently resistant to exposure to open ultraviolet radiation and the external environment.
Therefore, in order to avoid the possible gradual destruction of the insulation and the subsequent freezing and fogging of the windows, GOST prescribes the obligatory insulation of the seam from all sides. For this you need:
- from the inside, stick along the perimeter of the window (from the sides and top) a waterproofing self-adhesive tape, which is vapor-tight and used specifically for plastic windows. A foil strip is glued below, which will subsequently be located under the window sill;
- with outside also around the perimeter should be glued membrane moisture-resistant and vapor-permeable adhesive strip (PSUL) capable of releasing steam outside.
The above-mentioned materials in a sufficient range are offered on the market building materials... Their use will practically not increase the cost of work, but significantly increase their quality, as well as the service life of the structure being mounted.
Directly the gap is filled on the pre-moistened surface from the inside after bending back the self-adhesive strips. For application, a regular gun and foam designed for year-round use are used. GOST allows the use of ordinary foam, but such windows can be used at temperatures up to -30 degrees. Naturally, in almost all regions of Russia, windows with such insulation of the seam cannot be used.
Window sill installation
A fairly simple process, which consists in fitting (if necessary, trimming) the window sill for its exact fit under window frame with emphasis on the lining profile. GOST provides for its entry to the walls - from 50 to 100 mm. Then the pegs are attached to the level at which it should be located, and the cavity under it is sealed with mortar or polyurethane foam.
If earlier you or your friends used the services of firms for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that the installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more information about the norms, see GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! The manufacturers do not give a guarantee in the event that the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.
Nevertheless, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.
Stage 1. Measurements
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! The quarter is a 6 cm wide inner frame (or ¼ brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on the anchors, and the foam will be covered with special cover strips. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
- First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster to make the result more accurate.
- Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).
Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.
To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm for the bend to the already existing drainage. This also takes into account the width of the insulation and cladding (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. With regards to departure, then it should overlap the heating radiator by a third.
Note! are measured at the end of the installation.
Stage 2. Order
After measurements finished drawing should be referred to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the bag out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has its disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is put assembled, then it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.
Stage 3. Preparation
This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First released workplace, all furniture is covered plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pry off with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal ones. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the awnings. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.
Note! Mullions are special jumpers intended for dividing the sashes.
Then you need to make a markup for the anchors and make holes along it - two from the bottom / top and three on each side. This requires anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then the fasteners are made using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled in the day before installation. So the element will not freeze.
Stage 4. Dismantling work
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before the installation of a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the mount, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.
Step 1. First, the sealant and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is peeled off.
Step 4. The adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. The polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.
Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to align the structure), only after that it is attached to the wall. The underlays can be left to serve as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct position of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window in three planes is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels they are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, therefore it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window has risen evenly, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled with a perforator through pre-prepared holes in the structure (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will "skew".
Stage 6. Drainage
Outside, an outflow is attached to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.
The edges of the low tide are recessed into the walls by several centimeters, having previously made recesses using a perforator.
Note! The bottom slot is also closed before installation.
Step 7. Assembling the window
After fixing the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
Step 2. The leaves are opened, their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening / closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is installed level.
Step 3. An assembly seam is closed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and will prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will "lead". If done correctly, the foam will come out a few centimeters after drying.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.
Stage 8. Installation of the window sill
Step 1. The sill is trimmed so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Video - Installation instructions for plastic windows
findings
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already "set").
The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are also some nuances - such, for example, as installing a parapet to create a partition.
Installation of PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from moisture. How to install a plastic window in accordance with GOST, and what materials to use for this, you can find out by reading our article.
For high-quality and fast work, you will need the following set of tools:
- Perforator.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Drill screwdriver.
- The nail puller.
- Sledgehammer.
- Level.
- Yardstick.
- Pencil.
- "Bulgarian".
- Silicone gun.
- Square.
- Metal scissors.
- Putty knife.
- Slick.
- Rubber hammer.
- Pliers.
- Brush.
- PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape. PSUL has different thicknesses and widths and is designed to hide the outer foam seam.
- Vapor barrier tapes - needed to hide the foam seam inside the room. There are metallized and fabric-based tapes. Metallized tapes are used for "dry" finishing of a window opening ( plastic slopes, drywall or PVC panels). A fabric-based vapor barrier tape designed for finishing materials on water based (plaster, plaster and so on).
- Diffusion tape - is necessary as a lining under the window cornice. This tape has the ability to let air through, but not to let water through.
- Window sill substrate - is a tape on a metallized base, with a layer of insulation, serves as a heat and vapor barrier.
- Anchor plates - window mounts connecting the frame with window opening... Anchor plates allow you to fix the window in the opening without through holes in the frame.
- Self-tapping screws - attach the anchor plates to the window.
- Dowel screws - connect the anchor plates to the window opening.
- Priming compound - designed for surface treatment at the place of gluing vapor barrier tapes.
- Wooden wedges - are needed for intermediate fixing of the window in the opening and setting the level.
- Base profile - is attached from the bottom of the frame and serves as a window stand and a mount for the cornice and window sill.
- Plastic window sill - comes complete with a window, but, if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.
- Draining - rarely in basic set plastic window, usually ordered separately.
- Polyurethane foam - used for filling joints and as an additional fastening element.
Depending on the type of window opening and window model, you may need additional tools not included in the list.
In addition to tools, to install a plastic window, you must have the following consumables:
Preparatory work
Dismantling
If it is necessary to dismantle the old window, do the following:
- Remove all leaves from their hinges.
- Remove the glazing beads and remove the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
- Detach the trims, drain and sill from the frame.
- Remove the mortar and foam between the frame and the window opening.
- Using the grinder, cut off all frame fasteners.
- Pull the frame out of the opening.
- Remove the remaining foam and mortar at the location of the frame.
Window preparation
Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to make a number preparatory work:
- Remove the window sashes from the hinges by knocking out the awning rods with a hammer and screwdriver.
- Remove the glass units from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the fastening grooves, this can be done with a rubber hammer and a wide chisel, or a spatula.
- Attach the stand profile to the bottom crossbar of the frame. When connecting the profile and the frame, use - PSUL as a gasket between them.
- Install anchor tapes around the perimeter of the window. The straps are screwed to the frame and base profile with screws. For ease of installation, bring the ends of the anchor strips inside the room. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
- Glue PSUL on the top and side posts of the frame, so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with polyurethane foam.
- Stick the diffusion tape onto the base profile with outside window.
- For protection inside seams, glue to the frame vapor barrier tape.
Window installation in the opening
After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:
- Secure the frame to the opening with wedges.
- Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a spirit level.
- With the frame in the correct position, through the holes in the anchor strips, mark the places for the dowel screws.
- After drilling holes with a punch, fix the frame in window opening on anchor tapes.
- Using a brush and a primer, treat the bonding points of the vapor barrier tapes and PSUL.
- Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with low expansion foam.
- After the foam dries, trim off the excess.
- Glue PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.
Installation of drain and window sill
- Spread out the diffuser tape and place the drain on it.
- Attach the drain to the support profile using self-tapping screws.
- Cut the window sill to fit the slopes of the window opening.
- In the place where the window sill will be located, lay a metallized tape with insulation.
- Insert the window sill into the support profile and fix it with screws.
- Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and windowsill with silicone sealant.
Final work
- Insert double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
- Install the flaps in their places.
- Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.
The plastic window is installed, it remains to finish the slopes of the opening and then remove the protective film.
Look detailed instructions for installing a plastic window using GOST standards, you can also in the video: