How to do everything right, not harm the plant and protect it from low temperatures in winter - read on!
Grapes for the winter - we monitor the health of the vine in advance
Every gardener, even an amateur, knows that a weak and sick vine will never survive the winter and is doomed to die. In order for the plant not to hurt and have excellent vitality, before the onset of frost, it is necessary to take care of the most comfortable conditions for its growth and ensure proper fertilization of the root system. It is fertilizers that have the greatest effect on the strength of the vine and its readiness for wintering, since grapes accumulate starch, organic substances and sugar in themselves, which do not allow them to freeze even in the coldest frosts. If the plant has not accumulated the necessary substances, then the risk of freezing is very high.
It is necessary to pay attention to grape diseases. If powdery mildew forms on it, a fungus, mold or a vine has been attacked by a pest, it is necessary immediately, after collecting all the bunches (so as not to eat chemicals), to treat with fungicides of continuous action. Any drugs, since the main thing is to destroy all biological activity on the plant and allow it to calmly accumulate nutrients.
Vine care also includes copper sulfate treatment in the fall. For this, a solution of 5% is suitable, which must be abundantly sprayed on the plant, or even better - to dip it into the solution, if it is possible to do so. This helps to get rid of many pests and sterilize the vine so that nothing will disturb while under the snow (or under an artificial "roof").
From the first days of spring, it is necessary to ensure that the bushes are not too thick, otherwise they will have low vitality, and each shoot will not be able to absorb the required amount of minerals and salts.
Pruning grapes
Shelter of grapes for the winter is impossible without high-quality pruning for several reasons. First, it should be noted that a large amount of material and labor will be required to bury the 7-8 meter branches. It is better to shorten them to 2-3 meters, so that it is convenient to tilt them to the ground and cover them with special agrofibre or cover them with earth. Pruning is necessary not only for convenience, but also for the health of the plant itself. The stem accumulates useful substances, the outflow of which occurs from annual shoots to the productive part of the bush and roots. Thus, shoots should not be pruned immediately after fruiting, as some gardeners do.
The optimal pruning time is the first frost. It is then that the juice stops moving and the "hibernation" period begins. You can safely remove annual shoots - they will still freeze and dry up in the spring. Absolutely everything is cut off to the hardened part, you can leave at your own peril and risk 20-30 centimeters more, but not the fact that this area will overwinter. Only perennial wood is thick enough to survive icing. The winter hardiness of the bush will increase significantly if the site is protected from the wind, since it is he who affects the icing of the stem. Icing restricts oxygen access and prevents the plant from breathing, as a result of which areas die off (even perennial wood).
Choosing a vine that will overwinter is easy enough. This can be done visually. Its thickness should be at least 10-15 mm, if less, it is better not to risk it.
Then we look at the core of the vine. If it occupies from 90 to 60% of the area, then there is no chance of surviving prolonged cold weather. It is necessary that the core occupies no more than 40-50% of the volume, then we can say that all vital "organs" will be reliably hidden from the cold. The remaining thin stems can be safely cut.
How to keep grapes for the winter - the harm and benefits of feeding
Many will be sincerely surprised that fertilizers can do a lot of harm, especially for early varieties. It is known that nitrogen fertilizers have a too good effect on the development of vegetative mass, especially at ambient temperatures above +15 0 C. Thus, the weight gain can be up to 1% per day or more, and the surface of the vine does not have time to harden and remains for several months. " young". As a result, the shoots can freeze at low temperatures, and their growth stops only 1-2 months after the end of feeding with nitrogen-containing substances.
To prevent this from happening, and the stem had time to harden and form a strong bark that would protect it from low temperatures, it is necessary to finish feeding with liquid and granular fertilizers 3-4 months before the onset of cold weather. That is, immediately, as soon as the vineyard has ceased to bear fruit (or preferably a month before that), it is necessary to suspend the application of ammonium nitrate and phosphorus fertilizers.
But do not confuse phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers with organic ones, which will only benefit the root system and stems.They both nourish the necessary substances and warm the roots as a result of chemical processes that occur during the slow decomposition of organic substances. At the end of October, it is necessary to apply up to 5-10 kg of humus under each bush, and do this so that all lateral roots do not come into direct contact with it, but have a ball of soil 5-6 centimeters from the humus. Otherwise, they may simply burn out in the spring at high temperatures. In any case, if you covered the area with organic fertilizers, in the spring you need to pour everything abundantly so that the substances are absorbed evenly into the soil and do not harm.
Construction of winter shelters and their features
When constructing winter shelters, the main thing is to understand one simple thing - the frost is not as bad as ice, which makes it impossible to breathe. Even in the most severe frosts, the raspberry tree can remain unharmed if it was in a secluded place and “breathed”. Therefore, it makes no sense to dig large trenches, it is enough just to sprinkle it on top with earth or cover the vine.
No one will tell you exactly when and how to insulate grapes for the winter, since there is no single correct solution for this problem. Everyone uses the method that is most popular in their latitudes. In many cases, they begin to cover at an average daily temperature of - 5 ° C degrees - this is the ideal period, according to 60% of surveyed gardeners. What should be considered and what should be paid attention to?
- The length of stay under winter shelter should be kept to a minimum. The more it will be underground, with fabric and other types of insulation layers, the weaker the bunches will be in the spring. Covering grapes in nature is not provided, and it needs constant access of air, in the ground it is affected by bacteria, begins to rot and simply "suffocate" over time. The sooner you dig it up and the later you bury it, the faster young shoots will develop and bunches will form.
- It is not enough to accumulate starch for the wintering period, it is necessary that it crystallizes into sugar... Only sugar syrup, which is formed during exposure to subzero temperatures on starch, can save the plant. It works like antifreeze in a car - it does not allow the entire "mechanism" to freeze even at -20 0С. What should be done? Just let it sit in the cold for a few days. After that, you can cover and bury.
- Do not cover with foil. Under no circumstances should polyethylene materials be used for wintering shelters.... The cells stop breathing and die. It is also worth considering that under the film there will be a greenhouse effect: under the sun, the buds will sprout and immediately die at night at negative temperatures. It is better to leave without shelter at all than under the film - so at least there will be chances to survive.
- You cannot cover the vine early. If it gets into warm ground, it can germinate, after which severe frosts will destroy the buds.
There are a large number of options for sheltering for the winter, from the most laborious and time consuming, to five minutes. Let's consider several ways to build wintering "houses":
- A way for the lazy. We bend the branches to the floor, cover with a polypropylene bag or agrofibre on top and press down with bricks. Actually, nothing else is needed. You can also sketch the earth along the edge.
- A way for lovers of earthworks. We dig a hole 30-40 centimeters deep and the length of the entire stem, after which we put the vine in it and bury it. Sketch another 20-25 centimeters of earth on top so that no frost will find your treasure. If you still have strength and desire, you can still throw the earth on top of the roots, so that they will be warm and cozy on cold winter nights.
- A way for lovers of modern architecture. If you were unable to make a beautiful landscape design during the warm season - you have the opportunity to do it now! We wrap the tied and erect stem in agrofiber, burlap or other breathable material. Thus, you get a beautiful "Ekibana" of impressive size! Not pretty enough? You can paint such a "structure" white or black - original. Guests will appreciate your taste, and the style will be reminiscent of European (they decorate every element in small yards, including plants prepared for winter)!
- A way for gardeners who grow a lot of green leaves. If the bush is very large and has thin stems in the fall, it is easiest to twist them into a spiral, and then tie them. Hammer 4 sticks around the bush, wrap them around with agrofiber or even mineral wool (some prefer to use fiberglass). Imagine yourself as a silkworm and make a beautiful cocoon around the bush! With a wall thickness of "cocoon" of 1-2 mm, no frost is terrible for the plant!
There are many more ways to preserve grapes in winter, but these are the most popular and proven by many gardeners. Summer residents and gardeners also use special insulation materials for shelter, but then the structure turns out to be relatively expensive (besides, it is disposable and will have to be thrown out the next year). Therefore, there is no need to consider this method. If you do everything correctly according to this guide, then next year you can confidently count on a good and tasty berry harvest!
Proper preparation of grapes for winter will protect them from cold and pests. Despite the fact that most of the varieties are obtained as a result of selection, you should not rely 100% on the ability of sweet berries to resist the influence of external negative factors. Proper preparation of grapes for wintering includes several stages. The first one begins in the fall. The specific period is determined by the gardener, taking into account the climatic zone and characteristics of the variety. The optimal time is mid-September - early November. In the middle lane, preparations begin in October.
The first step is to gently bend the vine to the ground before the onset of cold weather. The next step is the introduction of nutrients. The grower should remember to feed after fruiting. It is not worth saving, otherwise there will be no active vegetation in the spring. Phosphorus and potassium are often used. In those cases when mineral fertilizers are used in the garden, then superphosphate is added to the soil in a volume of up to 30 g per 1 m2. If the stake is made on potash fertilizers, then potassium sulfate is added to the soil in a volume of up to 20 g per 1 m2.
Regardless of the type of fertilizer, the focus is on wet. With its help, nutrients will reach their goal faster. For each plant, 10 liters of water are spent, in which fertilizers are dissolved. In summer cottages, the owners of which prefer organic fertilizers, use wood ash as a top dressing. For each plant spend up to 200 g. It is brought in dry form during digging or in dissolved form. In regions with a harsh climate, slightly rotted humus or compost is additionally used. Each plant needs to be processed with 15 kg of substances.
Mandatory application of fungicides
Among the tips on how to prepare grape bushes for winter in the middle lane, not the least is the recommendation to use one of the fungicides. The first place among the popular substances is iron sulfate. It contains substances that prevent the development of bacterial flora. Even with jumps in temperature, the berries are not threatened. When processing seedlings, the following recommendations are followed:
- spraying can be done before pruning, but this procedure will require 50% more solution;
- processing is carried out with a 3% solution (if the berries are not sick) and 5% solution if the grapes are ill;
- for every 10 liters of water, take 500 g of the substance;
- young plantings are allowed to be treated with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate - for every 10 liters of water, 100 g of the substance is taken;
- after processing, the vine will darken a little and this is not scary;
- urea (100 g for every 5 l) added to the solution will help to improve the quality of spraying.
Despite the fact that urea contains nitrogen, in small quantities it destroys the larvae of pests. Spraying is carried out only after all the leaves have fallen. The second condition is that all the buds are closed on the bush.
Carrying out pruning of bushes
Proper preparation for winter begins with the removal of individual elements. Every action needs to be verified, so don't rush. Immediate and subsequent pruning for the winter includes harvesting cuttings. They will be used for berry propagation. You can start working immediately after all the leaves fall off. It doesn't matter if the bushes grow only for the first year or for several years, the recommended procedure is as follows:
- the first pruning is carried out in mid-September;
- the second pruning is carried out 3 weeks after the harvest in October;
- during the 1st pruning, diseased and dry bushes are removed (no more than 15% of the total number of bushes);
- it is allowed to cut off only those processes that are localized on the main trunk 60 cm above the upper wire.
Gardeners who want to know how should always keep in mind the variety of berries and the climatic characteristics of the region. Both factors shift the trimming time up or down. In order for the grapes to feel good in winter, the summer resident pays more attention to the II pruning in October:
- the shoot is to be trimmed from the outside of the sleeve;
- up to 3 kidneys are left on it;
- up to 2 shoots are left on the inside to form a fruit arrow;
- you need to leave such a number of eyes, which coincides with the diameter of the vine + about 2 buds.
In low-bearing grape varieties, an additional 3 buds must be left.
Compliance with watering rules
As soon as the pruning is completed, the plants need to be watered. The first rule is that watering is carried out before the soil freezes, otherwise it does not make sense. The optimal time is the end of autumn. The more moisture is applied, the less likely it is to get a small crop. Gardeners' reviews indicate that a vine soaked in water quickly enters the growing season in spring. Late fall preparation includes the following recommendations:
- recommended for sandy soil - 60 liters for each bush;
- for loams, the indicator is 30 liters for each bush;
- before watering, a small depression is made around the main trunk - up to 10 cm.
It is necessary to water so that the water gets into the groove. This way, you can save moisture and make sure each shrub gets enough moisture.
The benefits of catarovka
Before winters, you need to remove small roots, which are located at a depth of 25 cm. You should not ignore the recommendation. These roots are too close to the surface. During winter standing, when watering and fertilizing are rare, they will die off, drawing strength from the grapes. The scheme for removing surface roots looks like this:
- carefully dig up the soil around the trunk to a depth of 25 cm;
- roots are removed with pruning shears;
- the sections are treated with a solution (3%) of copper sulfate;
- wrap the cut site with 3 layers of foil and tie it with twine;
- the hole is covered with earth.
It is necessary to carry out katarovka for those who grow grapes on a farm or on an industrial scale.
Shelter grapes for the winter
Step-by-step autumn processing of grapes implies a preliminary assessment of the condition of the vine. If winter is already on the doorstep, and the vine is not ripe, then it is worth temporarily stopping watering and feeding. These procedures will be enough to accelerate maturation. Next stage - . It all depends on the amount of snow that falls in the region. The smaller it is, the denser the fabric should be. Work begins with carefully removing the manhole from the supports and tying the branches. Then they are carefully laid on the ground.
In the middle lane, the vineyard is covered with spruce branches. We are talking about spruce or pine branches. Under such a blanket, a microclimate is formed that will not allow the grapes to suffer. A good advice on how to care for grapes in the fall and prepare them for winter is the recommendation to cover the plantings with more film. Just leave small gaps for air circulation.
Whatever one may say, but grapes in the conditions of the Almaty region are a sheltering culture, like garden blackberries. There are, of course, old varieties that keep frosts without removing the vine, but these are mostly wine varieties, and less care is taken about them. And grapes with their frenzied growth force are not clear to everyone, so beginners are a little afraid of it. Let's try to give a simplified method of preparing grapes for winter - shelter and pruning of the vineyard for the winter, as they say, “for dummies”.
Grapes: preparation for winter (pruning, shelter, moisture charging and feeding)
Preparing grapes for winter is not only about pruning and warming them. It is also necessary to carry out moisture-charging irrigation and fill the vineyard with potassium. In summer, from mid-July, the grapes are usually not watered. This is necessary in order for the vines to redirect the growth force of the shoots to the ripening of the crop. But dry land quickly freezes and the roots are damaged, so the grapes must be shed well in October. It is better to water the grapes with a slump, as sprinkling increases the spread of mildew.
Autumn fertilization of grapes with potassium is filling the vineyard with wood ash. Potassium, like nothing else, increases the winter hardiness of the vine and, most importantly, the eyes, which will release flowering shoots next year. The vineyard is watered with an ash solution the next day after charging. A day before feeding, dissolve 1 glass of ash per bucket. Pour a bucket of such a solution under each bush.
In addition, poured ½ bucket of dry ash under each bush. Why is it better to do it in autumn? Yes, because ash has a very strong alkaline reaction and this has a detrimental effect on the growth of thin roots. In autumn, the thin roots of grapes die off and transfer nutrients to the thicker roots. That is, they are no longer afraid of any alkali - this time. And the second - in late autumn, winter and with the beginning of spring, the ash will be saturated with organic acids and become available for grapes.
How to prune grapes for the winter
Perhaps a beginner is able to determine where the grapes have shoots of this year. It is from the buds of these one-year-old shoots that wake up next year that flowering (\u003d fruiting) shoots will begin to develop. But there are too many of them on the grapes, and only two of them should be left. Now we will not dwell in detail on the formation of grapes, and how many sleeves a bush should have - there will be another article about this.
We need to figure out how to prune grapes for the winter so that they will bear fruit next year. And we go from simple to complex. On any of the sleeves, select from the bottom two matured lashes as shown in the picture below:
Cut off the entire lash over the second shoot (step 1). And we shorten the lower shoot (step 2), leaving 2 buds (sometimes 3 buds are left, and in the spring they break out the extra shoot, or shorten it). A long shoot before sheltering for the winter also needs to be shortened, but 10-15 buds should be left on it (step 3). So we got a fruit link, which is left for the winter.
The long vine will have a harvest in summer, and the replacement shoots will come from the short twig. They will develop more strongly, because there are only two of them (if there are more, it will be necessary to break them). From them, we will again make a fruit link next fall - we will leave a short twig at the bottom and a long shoot for fruiting. And we cut off all the fertile lash under a knot. And every autumn this is how the grapes are pruned for the winter.
How to cover grapes for the winter
Shelter grapes for the winter is carried out immediately after pruning. It doesn't matter if you grow grapes on a trellis or a gazebo - the principles are general. You can remove, cut and wrap the whips by pinning them to the ground with staples. Or you can cover them and tie them to a trellis or arbor vertically. The main thing is that the covering material must be free so that the plant can breathe.
If you cover the removed bushes not with a cloth, but with spruce branches or other plant materials, then the bushes of grapes can damage the mice in winter. Then you need to find elderberry leaves and twigs, and first throw them, and then other twigs. Elderberry perfectly scares away rodents.
These are the general principles of preparing a vineyard for winter. Carry out moisture charging in late autumn, feed the bushes with potassium. Well, do not be afraid of grape bushes, they are easy to prepare for winter - pruning and sheltering a vineyard for beginners is within their power, believe me, after all, everyone started with something.
When preparing a grape planting for the winter, it is very important to correctly carry out all the activities in the fall, which will help preserve the berry culture without losses until spring, and will also allow you to get a rich and high-quality harvest next year.
Features of preparing grapes for winter in the Middle Lane: how to cover, cut, process
Proper care in the fall is especially important for young planting of grapes. Saplings, as well as young bushes of this berry culture, regardless of the cultivar, have sufficient winter hardiness, therefore, with a frosty winter with little snow, the risk of freezing out of the vine and grape leaves sharply increases. A newly planted seedling of this garden culture is especially susceptible to freezing.
The best covering materials
Today, gardeners practice several methods of sheltering grapes for the winter.
| Shelter method | Execution technology | Application features |
| hilling | Creating a mound above the plant with a height of 10 cm to 25 cm | Suitable for protecting the first year of life |
| half-shelter | Create cover for sleeves, bush head and shoot base from straw or agrofibre | Protection of the part of the crown of the grape bush located closest to the soil surface |
| full cover of bushes | Remove the vine from the trellis and defoliation with formative pruning. Bend the plant to the ground, and then cover it with natural fabric and insulation film | In warm winter, ventilation should be provided in insulated structures to prevent steaming of the plant and premature opening of the buds. |
Winter pruning rules
Podwinter pruning is recommended in regions of sheltering viticulture and contributes to a more effective shelter of the plant before the onset of winter cold weather:- no more than four eyes should be left on the replacement knots;
- it is advisable to leave more than ten eyes on fertile vines;
- the cuts should be facing the inside of the plant;
- all bends left must be strong and healthy;
- it is recommended to remove non-fruiting arrows;
- replacement knots should be as close as possible to the trunk;
- the cut area is desirable to process.
When pruning vines, it is advisable to leave small stumps that will not allow the wounds to heal for too long. The optimal pruning time depends on the weather, soil and climatic conditions in the region where the grapes are grown. All affected by diseases and too old shoots are subject to mandatory removal during this period.
Top dressing, watering and other care in the fall
In the fall, water-charging irrigation is very important, which should be done in trenches that remain after the plants are covered with soil and with the help of special drainage holes. If the soil remains dry, the winter frosts can penetrate deeply into the soil, as a result of which rupture and death of the root system is often observed. In rainy autumn with well-dug and loose soil, there is no need for water-charging irrigation.
After active growth and a productive phase, the grapes need to replenish the expended energy, which will allow them to prepare themselves in the best quality for winter, as well as for the next fruiting season. In autumn, you should adhere to the following recommendations for feeding berry crops:
- in early September, the first feeding accelerates the ripening of the vine and prepares the plant for winter;
- for the first top dressing, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt are used for each square meter of the vineyard;
- a good result is given by adding 1-2.5 g of boric acid to the first feeding, 2 g of zinc sulfate and 2-2.5 g of manganese sulfate;
- in the presence of sandy soil, 1 g of potassium iodine is introduced;
- in the late autumn period, feeding is carried out by introducing 25 g of potassium and 25 g of phosphorus for each square meter of the planting area.
All top dressing must be accompanied by the most abundant watering.
Protection of vines from diseases and pests
Processing the vineyard in the autumn allows you to maintain the health of the berry culture and is carried out according to the following scheme:
- conduct a visual inspection of the aerial part of the plant to detect mildew damage;
- if necessary, remove diseased shoots and treat the vineyard with chemicals;
- for spraying, you can use "Amistar", "Mikal", "Efal", "Delan", "Ditan-M45", "Strobi", "Novozir", "Utan", "Penkoceb", "Acrobat", "Ridomil-gold "," Kuproksatom "," Kartotsidom "," Sandofan "," Copper oxychloride "," Oxyhom "," Agiba-Peak "," Polyram "," Avixil "or" Folpan ";
- if the vineyard is found to be damaged by powdery mildew, then the plant is treated with sulfur preparations;
- with oidium, it is advisable to spray the above-ground part of the grape bush with "Gray Colloid", "Mikal", "Fundazol", "Amistar", "Vectra", "Topaz", "Cumulus", "Strobi", "Kartotsid", "Tiovit-Jet" , "Falcon" or "Impact";
- similar preparations can be used to protect the vineyard from damage by phomopsis and anthracnose;
- the grape leafworm will scare off infusions based on tobacco and chamomile or the drug "Rovikurt";
- for the prevention of cercosporosis, drugs "Fundazol" or "Polyhom" are used.
It is very important to make timely minting and pinching to kill ticks on the vine. It is recommended that cut grape bushes be treated with a 3-5% solution based on copper or iron sulfate before wrapping for the winter.
How to cover grapes for the winter (video)
Late planting in the suburbs, in the Ukraine, in Bashkiria
Landing technology:
- the site should be open, well protected from cold winds and drafts;
- planting grapes should not be located near tall fruit plantations of garden trees;
- a high-quality seedling has a well-developed annual green shoot 40-50 cm high with a stem thickness of 7-8 mm;
- a well-developed grape seedling should have three or more light brown roots, 10-15 cm long and more than 2-3 mm thick;
- shoots should have well-ripened buds, and immediately before planting, they must be shortened by four eyes;
- it is recommended to immerse the root system after refreshing pruning in a solution based on heteroauxin before planting;
- a landing pit with dimensions of 50x50x60 should be prepared in advance, providing high-quality drainage based on rubble or brick battle;
- it is recommended to install a pipe in the center of the planting pit for liquid feeding and watering the plant;
- the pit should be filled with fertile soil with the addition of nitroammofoska, wood ash and humus.
After planting, it is necessary to carry out abundant irrigation measures. Autumn planting involves the obligatory high hilling of the plant with soil, as well as mulching with needles, sawdust or shavings.
Variety selection
In the autumn, it makes sense to plant only the most unpretentious, the most frost-resistant varieties that can take root well before the onset of winter frosts. Currently, there are several such varieties, and all of them quite reasonably deserve the attention of amateur gardeners.
| Variety | Category | Features: | Frost resistance |
| "Riesling" | Technical (wine) grade | Unpretentiousness to growing conditions | down to -26 ° C. |
| "Augustine" | Hybrid form | Increased resistance to various diseases | down to -26 ° C. |
| "Alpha" | Complex hybrid shape | Resistant to gray mold and grape moth attack | down to -29 ° С |
| "Isabel" | Hybrid table-technical grade | Characterized by a strong and vigorous vine | up to -32 ° С |
| "Marinovsky" | Hybrid view | Low sugar content of ripe berries | down to -29 ° С |
| "Amursky" | A variety of European-Amur origin. | Needs seasonal yield rationing | down to -29 ° С |
Storage of grape cuttings until spring
Cuttings (shanks) of grapes are kept quite well until spring at home. As a rule, long-term storage of cuttings in the form of a blank of planting material for spring planting is carried out in the cellar or in the refrigerator according to the following recommendations:
- cuttings tied in bundles should be placed in a plastic bag, sprinkled with moistened sawdust. It is impossible to tie the bag tightly, as this can disrupt air exchange and breathing of the planting material. The package with cuttings should be placed for long-term storage in a cellar at a temperature of 2-4 ° C;
- long-term storage of planting material can be carried out in special trenches 50 cm deep with an arbitrary length and width. In this case, cut cuttings should be tied into bundles, laid on the bottom of the sandy bottom of the trench, sprinkled with a layer of wet sand and soil.
You can also keep the planting material fresh in a regular household refrigerator. The cut cuttings should be wrapped in a damp and clean cloth, then placed in plastic bags and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
How to keep grapes fresh for longer
When harvesting a crop, gardeners ask themselves how to keep the berries and leaves of the cultivated crop longer with minimal losses. Of course, the most mature, late-ripening varieties are stored for the longest time, but certain rules should be adhered to during their storage.
Berry storage
Long-term storage of grape berries involves a certain preparation of the storage and the implementation of the correct harvest:
- there must be constant ventilation in the storage room for grapes;
- in winter, the temperature indicators in the storage should not fall below the 2 ° C mark, and the optimal indicators can vary within 0-5 ° C;
- the store must be completely free of pests and molds, so the visit should be pre-treated.
Ripe bunches can be laid out on shelves, stored in wooden tubs or wicker baskets, or hung from the ceiling.
Leaf storage
Grape leaves for making dolma can be stored in several ways:
- freezing leaves;
- pickling canning;
- dry canning;
- salting and dry salting.
Most often, washed and dried leaves are stacked in stacks of up to thirty pieces and wrapped in cling film. Such a workpiece is perfectly stored in a household freezer.
How to prune grapes before leaving to winter (video)
Nowadays grapes are in demand in the same way as thousands of years ago. The berries and leaves of this culture are eaten fresh, and serve as an excellent basis for harvesting. It is not too difficult to grow this valuable and popular plant in home gardening conditions, it is enough to follow the technology and adhere to all the recommendations listed above.
Reviews and comments
Svetlana 10/25/2015
You must be careful with straw when hiding grapes, especially if it contains spikelets with grain: mice can breed in it and arrange nests. Then they will nibble the whole vine. So it was with me when I just started to deal with grapes. And before the shelter, I sprinkle the vine with red pepper: mice don't like this.
Elena 08/30/2018
In the fall, we cover the grapes in two ways, or we dig trenches along the grapes, put the vines there and sprinkle them with earth, or just bend the vines to the ground, fix them with brackets, cover them with oilcloth on top and fix it with brackets too. As far as I know grapes are not so afraid of cold as icing.
Add a commentAfter all, you will need to take into account a lot of important nuances, among which pruning and shelter mean a lot. It depends on how the shoots will feel in the spring and their yield.
Why grapes need to be protected in winter
Frost, piercing cold, sharp fluctuations in temperature are very dangerous for grapes. A plant without proper preparation for winter in some regions may die. The cold season is most dangerous for bushes planted in open ground, and not in a school. Before harsh winters, seedlings should be properly hidden in order to enjoy the rich harvest of berries and juicy, healthy leaves from which you can make delicious dolma the next year.
It is important to remember that you need to cover:
- unstable berry varieties;
- hybrid forms;
- young seedlings;
- complex-resistant bushes.
Some grape varieties are frost resistant. However, they also need to be properly prepared for winter, taking into account some of the climate features in the regions.
Proper preparation of grapes for wintering: basic recommendations
Harvesting vines for the winter period has several features and conditions. You need to spend it in the fall. The main thing to do is prune the plant correctly. Bushes will need to be bent to ground level and cover the grapes thoroughly. Pruning is also acceptable in the spring months.
Note! Pruning the seedlings in the fall is the most rational, as this time allows the planting to be reduced in size and helps to make bending to the ground easier.
In spring, sap can come out of the cut vines, which in turn will cause a weakening of the crop and a decrease in the level of yield.
Preparation of culture in the Urals
In the Urals, there are some subtleties of preparing grapes for harsh winters. In these regions, pruning with a fruit arrow and a replacement knot is not allowed, since the climatic conditions have a lot of peculiarities. Already in March, there are sharp jumps in temperature, which leads to a cessation of the development of the first buds.
Here you need to remove all the stepsons and shoots up to the part that is lignified. A maximum of 12 buds can be left. It is not recommended to cut the bushes in the first year. Keep 4 arms, however, as the cultivation of this crop in the area can be unpredictable due to the harsh conditions.
Preparing grapes for winter in the Urals
Autumn work with vines in the middle lane and in the Moscow region
In the middle lane with sufficient mild winters, the vines are prepared for cold weather a couple of weeks after leaf fall. However, waiting for frost is not recommended. In these regions it is necessary:
- completely cut off young shoots;
- remove all stepsons;
- leave stems up to 12 eyes, if they are fruit.
On a note! In other cases, the lower branches should be cut off, leaving no more than 4 eyes.
In the middle regions, it is worth removing the plant from the supports and bending to the ground. From above, a shelter is created from dry leaves, special material, slate, straw.
Growing and caring for grapes in the suburbs involves the correct bending of the vines to the ground. It is very important that they do not come into close contact with the ground. Planks of wood are usually laid on the soil, which will avoid the formation of condensation, the appearance of mold, and decay of seedlings.
Additionally, you can treat the plant with copper sulfate to protect it from harmful microorganisms.
Abundant cover is not required for some crops. These varieties include:
- Northern early;
- Jubilee Novgorod;
- Moscow sustainable.
A small amount of spruce branches will be enough for them.
How to prune grapes for the winter
In order to preserve grapes well in winter, it is very important to prune them correctly in the fall. In the process, parts that have stopped bearing fruit are removed from the vines. You only need to leave the replacement knot and the fruit arrow. It is equally important to remove:
- old sleeves;
- damaged parts;
- diseased vines;
- unripe areas.
The procedure should be divided into 2 approaches. The first time it needs to be done after harvesting to remove dried and weak branches.
Correctly prune grapes for the winter
The main stage can begin after the bush has dropped all the leaves. It is very important to have time to complete the work before the first frost, at an air temperature of at least -3. All shoots above 1.5 meters are removed in the first days of September. Bushes that exceed the second support wire must be cut by 30 cm. The main thing is not to exceed the shoot removal by more than 10%. All stepchildren are necessarily cut off. The bottom of the plant should be the basis for the replacement knot. For this, no more than 4 eyes are left. When forming a fruit arrow, 5-12 eyes should be left.
How to shelter grapes for the winter
Before covering the grapes before mild winters, the culture must be treated with iron or copper sulfate. In regions with warm winters, the plant may not be covered. However, all varieties should be protected from death if the temperature is -21 ° C and below.
Before the shelter, the vines are bent to the ground and pinned to it. From above, they are buried in moistened soil from the aisles.
Note! You cannot use the soil from under the grapes, as the roots will freeze.
The best way to cover the vines is the air-dry method. A plastic burlap should be thrown over the bundles of shoots or wire arcs. You can use a dark film. Then the plant is buried in earth. Periodically, the growth will need to be ventilated, dried and cooled, for which the shelter is simply opened for a short time.
Shelter grapes for the winter
This method allows you to use:
- leaves;
- straw;
- sawdust.
However, a film is always laid on top, the edges of which are necessarily pressed.
On a note! In the south, the plant is buried in soil with a layer of 20-25 cm.