How to cut chipboard without chips
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to roll out another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing chipboard without chips .
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on one axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through and through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). FOR THE AMATEUR IS NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE.
Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the shop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU HAVE STUFFED IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but we have to cut it.
This article aims to answer this question. An overview of the options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I ask you to forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with text ????
Method 1 - Scratch
The old-fashioned way. Previously used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now it is rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line for the thickness of the decorative coating.
After that, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth hit exactly the scratch and not a step past. You can saw with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.
In principle, in the photo on the right, you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.
Detailed tutorial on this method 
The cut is significantly cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chipping occurs. It is difficult to keep the instrument in line. Very slow.
Cuts of acceptable quality, short in length, can be carried out with a simple jigsaw. For this, several conditions must be met. 
First, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and new. At the same time, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be practically clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively little.
Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turns are not set to maximum (slightly above average.
The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to withstand the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.
Method 3 - circular saw
To work with circulars, we need a "clean" saw blade (again, with small tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top), as a rule, is clean. Chips off pieces from the opposite side (bottom)).
You can cut like a free-sawing saw (it is quite difficult to lead exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of hassle with the markup. 
So it is with a saw fixed in the table. When using guides, it is much more convenient to cut. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.
Even with a clean disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.
Method 4 - Sawing with undercut
This is a modification of working with a circular saw. Ideally, it will require plunge saw... but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured is a simple circular with a homemade tire). 
The whole trick is to, by analogy with a panel saw, make two cuts strictly along one line.
This will help us cut on the tire (long ruler). The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, undercutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing out its pieces. 
If you enlarge the photo, you get something like this
The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, chips are not formed at the point of entry of the tooth into the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut and there is nothing to prick.
Not a bad way to trim misplaced parts, but you can't cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (he also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). Lots of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.
Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece, the quality does not differ at all from the formatting tool, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, suitable size). The milling cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing. 
Very clean cut. Possibility of holding curved cuts, that is, making the set radius parts... including several exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, placing a template or tire under the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.
http://ruki-zolotye.ru
We recently bought coffee table, the price is inexpensive, but there is a "but". The height of the table for our interior is too big. It would be nice to reduce the height by 10 centimeters. As they say, we are not looking for easy ways, I decided that
i can do it myself.
I remembered that on our site there is an asoleg specialist who did it, of course, I'm far from him, but some recommendations can help. I contacted him, explained the problem and he kindly shared his secret. With his permission, I publish his cutting technology furniture chipboard no chips.
Everything turned out to be corny and simple. We mark the cutting line. Then with a clerical knife, along a ruler, cut through the top layer of chipboard. Just run the knife several times with a little effort along the cutting line. (I recommend practicing on the unnecessary part of the wood particle board) If you press very hard, then the decorative layer will begin to swell and turn out not very beautiful.
Further, retreating 1-2 millimeters from the marked line towards the rough part, we cut it with a jigsaw or a suitable file with teeth directed towards the saw handle. We make a wash down on the opposite side of the cut so that no chipping occurs when the cut is completed. And we saw through to the end. You need to cut carefully, slowly. Then, with a medium grain sandpaper, fixed on a bar, we clean the end of the part. If necessary, remove the millimeter that we retreated. My cut turned out to be almost perfect, after processing with sandpaper there were no scuffs at all. The photo shows the difference between the left and right side of the cut. Well, and, accordingly, if both parts of the chipboard are needed, we cut it with a knife on both sides of the cut. We measure the thickness of the cut of a jigsaw or file and add 2 millimeters. It turned out the distance that should be between the slots made with a clerical knife. Cut exactly between these lines. Then there will be no scoring on the other side. Naturally, you need to use a sharp instrument, I use an instrument.
Everything worked out great. On the finished table, my wife did not find the place where I cut.
Thanks for the assistance and help asoleg.
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If you love doing something with your own hands, read the article.
With a saw, the tool should be set to the cutting line. The guide is squeezed with the platform side. After that, they start cutting.
The tool moves forward smoothly and the platform is carefully controlled. The platform and the rail must move towards each other so that nothing moves. The cut off part must be carefully held with a few centimeters left to the end. Then the part will not break off.
What to do if you have problems with accuracy
- The main requirement is the reliable fixing of the material for which processing is required. In addition, cutting should be convenient for the person himself.
- It is better to use guides if there is great doubt that the person will be able to do the job. For instance, wooden block will be an excellent guide when cutting straight. It is simply fixed along the marking. It is much more difficult when the shape of the future product is rather complex. Then the use of patterns is recommended. Otherwise, the speed of work will have to be reduced to make the result more accurate.
- Saw problems are one of the most common problems when sawing. There is a possibility of chips, dullness. It is better to inspect if it is noticeable that the instrument is strongly retracted to the side.
- If there are jerks, there is a possibility that the cut will go to the side. Other failures in the instrument also lead to a drop in accuracy. It is recommended to start fixing such problems immediately, on the spot.
- The skill of the performer himself also affects the accuracy of the final work.
Professional secrets
It is imperative to check how firmly the canvas is fixed.
This mechanism can have its own characteristics, depending on the manufacturer.
For working with any cutting tools, it is really important to attach the blade, its general position.
A useful device will be responsible for the removal of sawdust. Its working principle is very simple. There is a flow of air from the fan cooling the motor.
It is used to remove garbage. The retract system makes the cut line more visible to the foreman.
The drill can be easily replaced when making holes using a technique called pocket. To do this, it is enough to tilt the jigsaw forward, then the tips with a rounded shape will rest on the cut surface.
Above the line of the future cut, the blade must be positioned with maximum accuracy. Lower the control saw horizontally and then continue practicing.
For such work, first marks are made inside the material, and then, already along them, the instrument itself is found. With a square or rectangular shape, the canvas is pulled back a little before the wizard guides the tool to the next side. And so all four are processed.
The use of plunge sawing is permissible if it is impossible to create holes of the required dimensions. For this, the jigsaw tilts forward until the file reaches the workpiece. Gradually, a through hole appears during this process.
What else you need to know about working with a jigsaw
At its core, this device is regular saw, only equipped with an electric motor. It is recommended to take it for carpentry work when it is necessary to cut surfaces with wide, even sides.
In this case, the tool itself remains in place. The movement is organized only by the material that needs processing.
The cut is performed from the back side, then its characteristics will please.
- Machine oil for lubrication is needed if work is carried out with metal, tiles.
- Cold water should cool the cut line when processing metal.
- Personal protection cannot be provided without glasses and gloves.
- With an electric jigsaw, plastic is processed only from the rear, otherwise it is impossible to get an even cut.
A special plate is attached to the support sole of the jigsaw, it allows for greater accuracy. This makes the movement of the saw blades smoother over the surface. Any will be cut exactly.
About the varieties of the instrument
First of all, they can be professional or household. Professional means the fixture will have a lot of power. It is usually 580-720 watts. But for household appliances it is less, only 320 watts. But this is quite enough for a small amount of work at home.
The higher the power of the tool, the thicker material it handles without problems.
Any type of tool can handle holes up to 15 mm. But we must take into account that jigsaws, in which 1000 rpm is equal to the lowest speed, will not cope even with plastic.
Jigsaws are sometimes divided into groups depending on how the saw is attached to them. For example, for a bore shank, smooth or cruciform. The latter two have become the most common since they are best suited to household tools.
Design and its features
Each jigsaw has a so-called support sole. It always rests on the part that needs to be cut. Thanks to this, the accuracy of work is significantly increased.
The sole can be easily rotated to make bevel cuts. Some manufacturers produce in which the main tool is fixed only at a certain angle.
The file acts as the main cutting tool... Tooth breeding, sharpening method, size, shape, materials - they literally have their own for each model. 75, 85 and 100 millimeters are the most suitable lengths if you need to cut low density materials. Saw step size is also becoming a fairly important parameter.
- Metal requires a pitch of 12 millimeters.
- Have wooden products he is from 2.5 to 4.
About additional accessories
No special effort is required to obtain maximum results. The tool can be operated as a stand-alone fixture without any additions. But there are parts that can increase the working capacity of a conventional jigsaw.
You can learn how to saw with a jigsaw without chips from the video:
In general, I have already considered this in a review article, which was devoted to without the use of a panel saw.
Today I decided to dwell in more detail on the method available to most homemade people - this is sawing with a jigsaw, since this tool is very widespread. In this lesson, I used a Skill 4581LA household jigsaw, by the way, a very good machine.
For the highest quality cut, the following conditions must be met
- the file should be fine-toothed (a file for metal is optimal)
- sawing is carried out at medium speed
in addition, for greater cleanliness of the cut, we will use such a modification as "scratch" sawing. Its essence lies in the fact that the laminate is scratched to the full depth and its pieces, pulled out by the saw teeth, do not go beyond the scratch boundary. For clarity, I will give a few photos.
You need to scratch along the ruler (with any sharp object - I used a perk drill, or you can even use a self-tapping screw.) To prevent the ruler from moving during the scratching process, I additionally fixed it with a clamp - you can use a couple.
We scratch to the full depth of the laminate, that is, until sawdust appears in the scratch. 
Then we take up the jigsaw, and we lead it so that the file goes as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, while not going beyond this border. 
Thus, chips are formed only on the unnecessary side, without going beyond our marking line. 
Once again the same cut upon its completion. It can be seen that minimal chips still remain, although they can be found on professional equipment. But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired. 
Of course, there are unique people who can cut with a jigsaw quite smoothly. I'm not one of those. Of course, the class of the instrument itself also plays a significant role. As a rule, with inexpensive tools, the file is not as stable as in professional models. Due to this, it is taken away to the side of sawing.
Generally, this way has the right to exist, but I would not recommend putting it on the stream.