Any home craftsman sooner or later faces the need to cut chipboard. It can be making furniture with your own hands or wall cladding. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, cutting chipboard is not difficult, but making the cut even and without chips is not an easy task.

Do it yourself or order?

Custom cut will be smoother

High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to big size sheets. Dimensions standard plate 2440x1200 is not the limit. However, if you often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:

• Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tools;
• Order cutting chipboard in a specialized workshop.

What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.

Cutting panels at home

You can also cut with a jigsaw

It is quite possible to cut a sheet of chipboard or chipboard manually. True, in this case, you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.

There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:

• sheets must be cut on a level hard surface. For sawing large panels, two large tables can be adapted (their height must be the same!);
• in order to prevent the appearance of chips, stick adhesive tape or a good masking tape along the cut line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
• for sawing with a hand saw, select a blade with a grinding tooth. The saw teeth should be well sharpened. You need to drive the saw with a little pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
• to cut chipboard and chipboard with a jigsaw, the cut line should be scratched or even cut. It is best to use a sharp knife to cut through the tough laminate layer;
• install a file with a small back tooth;
• select top speed jigsaw work, turn off the "pendulum";
• fix a flat rail along the saw line and guide the jigsaw strictly along it;
• the jigsaw should be firmly pressed against the sawn surface.

All these recommendations help to properly cut and cut chipboard, but chips, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, straight line cut, without chips and traces of a saw, you should contact specialized workshops, where for a moderate fee any figure will be cut out of a chipboard sheet.

Accuracy and quality

Accurate cutting is the key to success

Panel saws for sawing chipboard and chipboard have high quality cut, which allows to reduce subsequent costs for processing cuts (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why on such machines it is possible to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in the production of furniture. Fantasy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer tables, figured through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades– all this is possible with the use of machines.

There are two types of panel cutting machines:

• vertical, which is a strong rigid vibration-resistant welded frame (frame), installed vertically with a back deflection of 50 °, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90°, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The cutting precision is amazing. For sawing laminated chipboard, as well as hard, corrugated or porous boards, a special scoring unit is used. The rotational speed of the saw reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
• horizontal, consisting of a table for a plate, a carriage for moving the saw along the saw mechanism and the actual saw mechanism, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main and scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw deeply cuts through the chipboard, and the scoring saw accurately and clearly cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45°.

The miter saw is a "domesticated" and greatly reduced copy of a horizontal machine. It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or chipboard on it, but with small details she'll be fine.

Sawing other types of panels

MDF panels also need to be cut exactly

Cutting MDF is different from cutting chipboard panels. high density material quickly blunts the teeth of the saw, so it often has to be sharpened or completely changed. It is possible to cut untreated MDF on a conventional machine, but laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw.

Sawing panels from chipboard and other materials

This is especially important when sawing boards with a double-sided finish.

Cutting fiberboard can be done at home using an electric or manual jigsaw. Of course, the file must be sharp, with small tooth, on the jigsaw it is necessary to set the maximum speed. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure with clamps if necessary.

The electric jigsaw should be held with both hands, pressing firmly against the surface, moving smoothly, strictly along the marking line, without jerking and pressing.

The same applies to working with a manual jigsaw.

In the case when it is necessary to cut many sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact specialized firm. This will save you time and effort.

Video on cutting chipboard with a circular saw

Cutting chipboard beautifully and without chips is not always easy. See how to do it right:

How to cut chipboard without chips

So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chips.

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly cut chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then quietly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU FUCKED UP IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but I need to cut.

This article aims to answer this question. The overview of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I ask you to forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this lack of text????

Method 1 - Scratch

The grandfather's way. It used to be used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.

After that, we cut along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not a step past. You can cut with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.

In principle, the photo on the right shows that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, but they did not go beyond the scratched line.

Detailed tutorial on this method

The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly in line. So slow.

Small cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple electric jigsaw. For this, several conditions must be met.

First, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and a new one. At the same time, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.

Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turnovers set not maximum (slightly above average.

The disadvantage of the method is that it is quite difficult to maintain a strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

Method 3 - Circular Saw

To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, chips are formed much more (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. It breaks off pieces from the opposite side (bottom)).

You can cut like a free saw (it is quite difficult to drive exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of trouble with markings.

So is the saw fixed in the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.

Even when using a finishing disc, there will be many chips on one side.

Method 4 - Undercut Sawing

This is a modification of working with circular saw. Ideally, it will require plunge saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured is a simple circular with a homemade tire).

The whole point is, by analogy with a panel saw, to make two cuts strictly along the same line.

This will help us cut on the tire (long ruler). The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm.

At the same time, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it.

If you enlarge the photo, it will look something like this

The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the place where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.

Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copy, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. Possibility of holding curved cuts, that is, the production of a set radius parts. including several that are exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.

It is believed that without professional tool high-quality wood cut or sheet materials do not execute. Today we will talk about ways to make a clean, even cut without chips, on our own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.

Tools for cutting and the mechanics of their work

If you do not take into account stationary machines for cutting, alternatives for handmade not so much. Of the available tools, you can offer circular and pendulum saws, commonly referred to as miter saws and electric jigsaws. It is also possible to perform a sufficiently high-quality cut using an angle grinder, on which a saw blade for wood with victorious teeth is installed. But this is not the most effective and, moreover, far from safe option.

In the process of cutting with any type of power tool, the working bodies move at a very high speed, and therefore the mechanics of processing remain, as it were, behind the scenes. However, understanding it is the key to getting a clean, chip-free edge. The simplest principle underlies the operation of pendulum saws. The cut is carried out at direct movement saw blades, while the size of the removed fragments depends entirely on the size of the tooth and its wiring.

Chips appear due to the inhomogeneity of the material being processed, in particular due to the hard crust of laminated sheet materials or because the fibers solid wood have different densities. Chips can form on different sides of the product, depending on the shape of the tooth, the feed force and the speed of movement of the working body. When working with a jigsaw, the appearance of chips is due either to the fact that the teeth pull out large fragments from the wrong side, or due to the pushing of the upper layer, in which it is not cut off, but broken out in large fragments.

The work of the teeth of a circular disk is in many ways similar to a jigsaw, with the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move at a very high speed. Also a significant factor is the direction (angle) of the applied force: if the jigsaw saw moves strictly perpendicular to the surface, then the circular saw cuts at an arbitrary angle, depending on both the diameter of the disk and the thickness of the part. This can play into the hands: oblique immersion of the tooth contributes to a more accurate cutting of chips, but on the reverse side, due to the movement of the cutting edges along the tangent, rather large fragments can break out. Of course, only a straight cut can be made with a circular saw.

Choice of saw blades and blades

When cutting, cleanliness and processing speed are inversely dependent quantities. It is worth noting that chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is to reduce their size to such a value that they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The size of the chips will be the smaller, the smaller the size of the tooth and the closer to right angle, under which cutting edge touches the surface of the material. For choosing a circular saw blade, these are the two most important factors out of three.

The third can be called the amount of wiring - the displacement of adjacent teeth, which is quite simple to determine by attaching a ruler to them. To ensure a clean cut, the wiring should be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when you try to cut a thick board or a sheet of plywood, the disk may simply clamp or the end will burn from strong friction.

Saw blades for jigsaws are more diverse. For cutting without chips, a series of saw blades are used, for example, BOSCH has a line of blades called CleanWood. Their main difference is the small size and the absence of a pronounced direction of the teeth. They, as a rule, have the shape of an isosceles triangle and carry out a cut in both directions of movement.

Also saws for a clean cut differ in almost total absence wiring and opposite direction sharpening adjacent teeth. In order to ensure the possibility of small wiring curly cut, the files have a very small width, which is why they become quite fragile.

For finishing cutting of sheet materials, blades designed to work with metal products. These saws have smallest size teeth from known ones, so the cut is slow, but with the highest quality indicator. Due to the significant width of metal sheets, a fine figured cut can only be carried out with a significant bending radius, on average about 60-80 cm.

Also note that the blunting of the teeth, which is typical for low-quality files with a “mileage” of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not be stingy when purchasing consumables if the quality of processing is really important to you.

Zero Gap Technique

Masters of carpentry most often use the principle of refining the sole of the cutting tool, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the pressure pad. This is almost guaranteed to eliminate the "breaking" effect of the crust in the top layer of the material.

Zero clearance is achieved by fixing the overlay plate on the support sole of the tool. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot) that fits snugly against the cutting body. Because of this, even with a large feed force, the teeth are guaranteed to cut off small chips, and not turn out the chips in the top layer of the part.

When using overlays, it is extremely important that they do not scratch or damage the surface of the part. Therefore, most often they are made from a material that is inferior in hardness to the processed one, for example, MDF or drywall. Unfortunately, such a lining is not enough for a long time, which is why it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of cut.

More durable pads can be made from sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the pad surface must be carefully polished and soft metals such as aluminum or duralumin should be used to reduce vibration.

Use of adhesive tapes

By the same principle, you can protect the back side of the cut material. A tape should be glued along the cut line, which will protect against pulling out large fragments. Pasting surfaces is one of the few ways to ensure the cleanliness of the figured cut with an electric jigsaw. Unfortunately, masking tape is not the best for this because of its low strength.

The best quality cut can be obtained by gluing an aluminum or fiberglass reinforced tape. It should be wide enough to cover 15-20 mm on each side of the cut line. The density of the sticker is also important: the tape must be pressed down well with a dry rag swab and wrinkling must be avoided by any means.

Tapes with very tenacious glue should be avoided. In the process of tearing, they can entrain small fibers and fragments. laminated surface, dissected by microcracks that form during cutting. Also pay attention to how easily the glue marks are removed and whether the adhesive has enough adhesion to work with rough materials such as unsanded plywood or OSB.

Providing a perfectly clean cut

For most parts, it is enough to reduce the chip size to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities of the cut edge are not striking, if desired, they can be easily eliminated by chamfering with an emery bar or smearing it with a wax corrector pencil. It is also possible to grind the end face with sandpaper if a sufficient allowance was given when cutting.

However, even at home, it is realistic to achieve a cut quality comparable to that of a panel saw with two high-speed discs. This is possible only when the tool moves along the guide rail, in extreme cases - along the temporary stop bar.

First you need to make two notches about 0.5 mm deep on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. Along the edges of the cut line, you need to scratch two furrows under an even ruler. This is done either with a segment or oblique shoe knife (for chipboard and uncoated wood), or with a sharply honed drill or a chisel (for laminated materials).

The depth of the furrows should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, which is heterogeneous with respect to the main body of material. This method requires high precision comparison of furrows and cut lines, but this is the only way to ensure a perfectly even cut end that does not require additional processing.

Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to cut chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a guide and without a guide with a conventional circular saw.

We will show using the example of a hand-held circular saw, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get a similar cut quality on a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.

What influences the quality of cutting chipboard?

In this case, we will saw chipboard, this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, quite delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, it has a rigid adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.

Saw disc. How to choose it?

When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be resistant, because the glue is very close to glass in its properties and quickly dulls the tool itself. Therefore, in the process of sawing chipboard, you need to choose good enough discs to cut them without losing quality for a long time.

What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?

If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of scuffs, because it is almost impossible to drive the saw evenly in the cut “on the hands”.

On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disc has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard blank and leave traces on it.

It is important to place the workpiece face down. Why?

The disk rotates from bottom to top, it cuts the pile of the workpiece up to the base. Thus, from below front side, we always have a clean surface. Problems start to form at the top where the teeth come out of the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, pile are obtained.

How can they be minimized or avoided altogether? There are several simple tricks and we will talk about them now.

Reception 1. Cutting along the guide

We install a guide (tire) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and perform a cut. As you can see for yourself, even outside there are no chips, no explosions in our workpiece from chipboard. He himself drank even without signs of scuffing or side waves. Why such difference?

What is the merit of a leader?

When we saw with a disc, we inevitably move the saw, we get the so-called "movement of the iron." That is, when we move our hand, we move the saw all the time to the right, to the left. The guide, which has a hard edge, avoids this.

Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself runs smoothly without changing its position. It turns out an ideal line parallel to the guide.

What to do if there is no manual circular saw and guide?

You need to make your own guide. We find a regular profile, you can take the rule, any flat rail, the main thing is that its geometry is even.

We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We fasten the guide to the workpiece with any clamp and start cutting.

The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always lead the saw towards the homemade tire.

After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We made a very high quality cut, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. Except for a small pile on the back of the workpiece.

Where did this pile come from, because we worked with a guide (tire)?

A commercially available cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape does not allow the pile to rise and the saw cuts it. In this case, we did not have this tape, so we got this pile on the surface.

What to do with the pile in this case?

There are two options:

1. Take ordinary masking tape. It is glued to the place of the cut, marking is made on it and sawn along with masking tape. The adhesive tape holds the ingrown in place and when we cut it, we get everything clean.

2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same with a slower feed, then there will be much less chips.

Reception 2. "Reverse cut".

The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates in the course of feeding the workpiece. We set the minimum cutting depth, turn on the saw and move not forward, but backward.

If you have ordinary saw, then simply fix the saw with a minimum reach beyond the base. The meaning of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only clings to our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.

Having made the first - undercut cut, you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (back). The surface is perfect!

Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - feed forward. We will get two cuts for one workpiece. No wave cuts, no arson, nothing - perfect quality!

Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chips

How to cut chipboard without chips

So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the theme is sawing chipboard without chips .

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly cut chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters each) in the workshop, and then assemble it quietly. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU FUCKED UP IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but I need to cut.

This article aims to answer this question. The overview of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I ask you to forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this lack of text????

Method 1 - Scratch

The grandfather's way. It used to be used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.

After that, we cut along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not a step past. You can cut with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.

In principle, the photo on the right shows that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, but they did not go beyond the scratched line.

Detailed tutorial on this method

The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly in line. So slow.

Small cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple electric jigsaw. For this, several conditions must be met.

Firstly, the file must be with a minimum tooth size (that is, for metal) and new. At the same time, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.

Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turnovers set not maximum (slightly above average.

The disadvantage of the method is that it is quite difficult to maintain a strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

Method 3 - Circular Saw

To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, chips are formed much more (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. It breaks off pieces from the opposite side (bottom)).

You can cut like a free saw (it is quite difficult to drive exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of trouble with markings.

So is the saw fixed in the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.

Even when using a finishing disc, there will be many chips on one side.

Method 4 - Undercut Sawing

This is a modification of working with a circular saw. Ideally, it will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured is a simple circular with a homemade tire).

The whole point is, by analogy with a panel saw, to make two cuts strictly along the same line.

This will help us cut on the tire (long ruler). The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. At the same time, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it.

If you enlarge the photo, it will look something like this

The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the place where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.

Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copy, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of carrying out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many radius parts. including several that are exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.

http://ruki-zolotye.ru

Everyone knows that laminated chipboard is our chipboard, which is covered with a paper-resin film. The lamination process takes place under special conditions: pressure 25-28 MPa, temperature 140-210 °C. The surface is strong, smooth, beautiful. The laminated chipboard coating is very resistant to mechanical stress and thermal. Because of these qualities, chipboard has become simply necessary for furniture production and for interior decoration.

Some craftsmen like to make furniture on their own. They acquire chipboard good quality from manufacturers or in special hardware stores. Since the color range of laminated chipboard is very rich, you can easily choose desired material. The surface of the laminated chipboard also has the most diverse structure, since it can be smooth, imitate wood different breeds or stone.

To make special furniture or unique interior with your own hands, it’s not enough just to buy chipboard and draw it into details. The coating of chipboard is very thin, its structure is fragile. If you cut the chipboard roughly and incorrectly, the cut will turn out to be ugly, torn, and shells will form on the edges. To be able to cut the chipboard correctly and not get chips and cracks, you need to know some little “tricks” of work.

Rules for sawing chipboard

For cutting chipboard at home use hand saw with fine teeth, a circular saw or an electric jigsaw. To perform the work without problems, you need to do the following:

1. Fasten tightly adhesive tape exactly along the cut line. The tape will not allow the saw teeth to damage the coating film.
2. With a sharp knife, cut through the coating and the layer under it along the cut line. In this case, the saw will cut only the inner layer of chipboard, and touch the coating only tangentially.
3. The hand saw, when operated, must be placed at an angle (very sharp) to the surface of the plate.
4. For sawing with a power tool, you need to use the minimum feed.
5. When the part is cut out, cut the edge of the coating at an angle of 45° with a sharp knife.
6. The cut is ground with a small file, the cut is processed to the center from the edges.

The edge of the sawn chipboard should be closed with a special overlay so that in the future it does not get any chips or cracks. To protect the cut, you can use a self-adhesive melamine tape, or a C-shaped patch or a T-shaped edge.