Homemade pond on the site. Do-it-yourself pond in the country (51 photos): choosing a style, place, size and suitable building materials

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To improve your site, you can build a beautiful pond in the country with your own hands on the territory, using modern landscape ideas with photo examples and design techniques. An artificial pond will bring harmony to the surrounding space and add originality to landscape design.

Natural green pond on the territory of your own summer house

Pond in the country

Sometimes an artificial pond in a suburban area is more of a necessity than an ornament. If a long stream flows through the territory or marshy soil is present, disadvantages can be turned into advantages. A do-it-yourself pond in the country will create an atmosphere of calm and relaxation.

What type of reservoir can be created in the country:

The first garden ponds appeared in the countries of the Ancient East, and only then this fashion reached Europe and Russia. Fountains and mini-waterfalls with massive stone edging began to be built near the palaces.

The pond can be:

The pond can be executed in different styles:

The improvement of a picturesque pond in the country, made by hand using landscape design ideas, is shown in the video below with photo examples and detailed instructions.

Competent planning

When arranging an artificial reservoir in the garden, it is necessary to draw up a detailed project plan and observe certain conditions.

Actions must be planned step by step:

• Location selection.
• Determination of sizes and shapes.
• Selection of the necessary materials.
• Stylistic decision.
• Plants and flowers.
• Decorative elements.

To begin with, you should walk around the territory of your dacha, carefully examining every corner and sketching on paper the shape of the future reservoir.

Place for a pond

This is an important planning stage in which several criteria should be taken into account:

• Soil features.
• Landscape relief.
• Climatic conditions.
• Illumination.
• Green vegetation.
• The presence of a natural reservoir in the territory.

In such a pond, it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep large fish or swim in hot weather, but there should be enough space to locate the structure itself and drain water. The home eco-system should resemble a mirror pond, not a swamp.

How to choose a seat:

Pond zoning:

1. Coastal part. It takes about 12-30 cm, it is used for shallow water vegetation and for arranging the entrance area.
2. Shallow part. Zone for plants and flowers - from 30 to 90 cm.
3. Deep water part. The size can be from 1 meter, it must be below the freezing level of the soil. Fish for decoration or breeding can live here.

A great idea would be to complement the beautiful lighting with musical accompaniment. This design looks spectacular and impressive.

Material

Building materials must be strong, reliable and durable. Concrete is most often used, but today lighter materials and structures have appeared, for example, polyethylene or butyl rubber.

Most popular options:

To protect the film when laying the bottom, lay a small layer of geotextile under its surface. So gravel and sharp stones will not be able to damage the film structure.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a "flexible" pond

It is easier to build a film-based pond than from concrete and more reliable than from a plastic mold. The recommended length of the film should be equal to the length and twice the depth of the reservoir itself + an additional 40-50 centimeters just in case. The desired width of the film is the width, double the depth of the pond and 40-50 centimeters for the remainder.

The main stages of arrangement:

1. Soil preparation and marking.
2. Earthworks to create a pit.
3. Bowl installation or film flooring.
4. Filling voids with river sand.

What may be required for work:

• Construction shovel.
• Irrigation hose.
• The pump for definition of pressure of the gulf of water.
• Compressor (for a fish pond to saturate the water with oxygen).
• Cleaning filter (for breeding fish).
• Cord, rope, pegs or light sand for marking the territory.
• Sterilizer for water purification.
• Construction wheelbarrow for the earth.
• Butyl rubber film.
• Adhesive for film ("Tangit", adhesive tape, etc.).

Pond making:

1. Create a sketch. Drawing on paper the form, all details, decor and location of auxiliary equipment, taking into account the size and depth of the bottom.
   
2. Transferring the mini-circuit to the soil with a garden hose or river sand. The contours must be marked with sand that differs in color from the ground. According to the applied outlines, a groove should be dug to a depth of up to 25 centimeters.
   
3. Removing the fertile layer and digging a hole. This will require a shovel (a construction excavator for a pool or a large pond with a fountain) and a cart to remove the earth from the territory. The pit is dug according to the depth of the coastal, shallow and deep water zones calculated in advance. The deepest part should be in the center and be dug last. Each time, the depth line should be fixed using markings.
   
4. Measuring the size of the pit. The walls of the pit are well compacted, and an additional 40-50 centimeters must be added to the edges to determine the future size of the covering material. The parameters are measured with a cord or rope, and then transferred to the film.
   
5. Film waterproofing. The bottom of the pit is covered with a small layer of sand and geotextiles to provide reliable protection for the film surface. When the substrate is ready, the film is carefully laid, tightly fixed to the base with glue and well pressed against all surfaces.
   
6. Filling with water. Water is poured gently and gradually with a hose, while a sharp pressure must be excluded.
7. Consolidation. The edges of the waterproofing are fixed in a pre-dug trench along the contour with a depth of 25 cm and covered with earth and rubble, after which they are well compacted.
   The edge of the reservoir is fixed with rods, stones or large boulders. This stage is suitable for placing and planting plants and flowers. Be sure to leave a small crease at the bottom so that when filling with water, the film does not tear.
8. Standing water. The finished reservoir should be left for 1-2 days so that the water settles well, after which the excess ends of the film are cut off. During this period, you can form beautiful bumpers, arrange the remaining decor and complete the landscaping work.
   

To strengthen the gently sloping shore, you can use a geogrid or geomat in combination with clay and black earth to make the pond look neat and well-groomed.

The size and shape of an artificial reservoir depends not only on the size of the site, but also on the imagination of the owners themselves. The aesthetic and decorative component undoubtedly play an important role here. If you follow all the recommendations and strictly follow the instructions, you can create the pond of your dreams in the country. How to make a pond in the garden with your own hands, using landscape ideas with photos and diagrams, is shown step by step in the video below.

Recreation in the country is an opportunity to dedicate yourself to nature, relax, forgetting at least for a while about city everyday life, and this is best done on the shore of your own pond. It all depends on your imagination and the size of the suburban area. Is it possible to make a pond in the country with your own hands? Of course. Follow the instructions below and you'll be fine.

Man-made pond in the country

Of course, I want to spend time in a well-equipped dacha, on the territory of which landscaping and complete landscaping are done - after all, resting in a dacha, which is a rickety house with a small courtyard overgrown with weeds and thistles, will definitely not contribute to peace of mind.

At the same time, a green, well-groomed lawn and neat trees, flower beds and artificial reservoirs will turn the territory of the cottage into a real earthly paradise. And ornamental ponds will take not the last place in it. Own pond in the country can be of almost any size - from a couple of square meters to a pond of a large area.

First of all, you need to understand the very purpose of an ornamental pond: unlike pools, the water in which must be subjected to special treatment (chlorination, ozonation, etc.), a garden pond will require the creation of a certain biological balance. Otherwise, the water in it will bloom and become cloudy, the plants will wither and they will take a fancy to it, except that midges and frogs are a dubious pleasure for the owner of the pond.

Types of garden ponds

Garden ponds having a geometrically regular shape - rectangular, round, diamond-shaped, etc. - look especially good in suburban areas, landscaped in the correct geometry (smooth lines, ideal shapes). As a rule, such decorative reservoirs are edged along the edges with tiled stone (artificial or natural), they are arranged near buildings, thereby emphasizing straight lines.

Ponds with the correct geometry can be made above ground level: this type of pond minimizes earthwork during their construction, simplifies their care, and reduces the risk of small children falling into it. The sides of such a pond protruding above the ground are suitable for a flower garden, you can install seats on them, and arrange a fountain in the pond itself.

Artificial ponds imitating natural reservoirs - they are characterized by rounded shapes and an arbitrary coastline. Plants that are natural for marsh flora are planted along their banks. A gentle slope under water, covered with medium-sized cobblestones or pebbles - landscape designers usually place this type of ponds in the far part of the garden, near the lawn. Such natural ponds are especially successful in arbitrary garden improvement.

Choosing the size and location of the garden pond

Of course, the size of an artificial pond directly depends on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage. If we talk about building a pond ecosystem, then large ponds are more convenient for this. Balancing vegetation and aquatic life in a large body of water is easier than in a small one, and larger ponds are easier to maintain. The smaller the artificial reservoir, the more often it will have to be cleaned - the lack of space for the inhabitants of the reservoir will not allow establishing a full-fledged ecological balance.

The place for the future pond is chosen from the point of view of aesthetics, the placement of an artificial reservoir near the main building is especially successful - it will be possible to observe the water surface from the windows or sitting in an armchair on the terrace.

The best place for a pond would be an open space that is not subject to strong winds - a strong wind will prevent the development of tall plants on the shore of the reservoir. It is necessary to calculate the illumination of the pond: the direct rays of the sun should not illuminate the reservoir for more than 10 hours (6 hours of illumination is optimal). With greater illumination in stagnant water conditions, the active development of aquatic bacteria and green algae (for example, mud) will begin. At the same time, in those parts of the pond where the illumination is insufficient (shading), the growth and development of aquatic plants will slow down.

The proximity of an artificial reservoir to the crowns of trees will lead to its pollution during seasonal leaf fall, in addition, the root system of trees can damage the pond bed, breaking through the underlying film or displacing the edges of the bath.

Owners who plan to provide lighting for a pond at night, or a pump for a waterfall cascade or fountain, should consider the location of the pond from the standpoint of power supply.

Artificial Pond - Materials

A man-made reservoir can be made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or butyl rubber film, use a ready-made container made of reinforced plastic or fiberglass, or create a reinforced concrete pond bowl.

In terms of the speed of creation, the first place is occupied by purchased containers made of fiberglass - all that is required is to dig a deep enough pit for them and place the container in it on a prepared and compacted sand cushion (it resembles a plastic basin of large size and, often, a bizarre shape).

True, it will not be possible to arrange a large fiberglass pond - serial production tanks, as a rule, have a small quadrature (usually an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 4 m 2, depth - 500-800 mm). Larger fiberglass tanks are intended more for swimming pools (above 10 m2) and are therefore more expensive. However, a small pond made of plastic or fiberglass for small suburban areas is quite suitable. The cost depends on the volume, shape and color.

A large pond and a “free” (i.e., not tied to any standard forms) layout can be arranged using a film (PVC or butyl rubber) - the film is needed to waterproof the reservoir. The cost of such material is low, in retail outlets it is widely represented both in terms of quality and manufacturers.

Do not use ordinary polyethylene in creating an artificial reservoir, it will serve you for a maximum of 2 years, then its density will be broken under the influence of physical and temperature influences.

PVC film or butyl rubber is suitable for creating a garden pond. The first material has sufficient strength and elasticity, has a high-quality structure - the reservoir formed by it will last at least 15 years. However, the undoubted leader in the field of waterproofing materials for artificial ponds is butyl rubber - it has high resistance to sunlight, high and low temperatures, and is not prone to cracking. Among other materials, butyl rubber has only one drawback - it is not cheap, but its service life exceeds 50 years.

If we are talking about complete reliability and durability, then there is only one material left - reinforced concrete. Unlike pond bowls formed by film or cast materials, you can walk along the bottom of a concrete reservoir without fear - it is difficult to damage such a bottom. However, it is more difficult to work with concrete, full compliance with the technology (welding of reinforcement, manufacturing of formwork), double waterproofing (on both sides of the concrete casting, both outside and inside) will be required - to protect against groundwater, i.e. the cost of such work will be the highest. It is possible to use special grade concrete that is not exposed to water, but it will cost even more and its use will require strict adherence to casting technologies.

Let's summarize the characteristics of materials for artificial ponds

The main advantages of film waterproofing: the ability to form the required shape, change the shape of the reservoir bowl in the future, ease of repair (if the film breaks). Minus: in winter, water from the reservoir will have to be poured out, if it freezes and expands, it will inevitably tear the film.

Advantages of reinforced concrete: high reliability, independence from external climatic factors (subject to the concreting technology), resistance to physical influences (stone falling, rodents, etc.). Cons: high labor intensity, extremely difficult rework. As a rule, the creation of artificial ponds from concrete is not popular, since the film is much easier to use. But if it is planned to build bridges over a reservoir and sculptural compositions on its banks, reinforced concrete would be the best choice.

When creating garden ponds, it is necessary to make sure that the materials chosen are completely non-toxic, otherwise the fish and plants in the pond will not survive.

Pond in the garden based on a finished (rigid) container

When choosing a rigid container for creating a pond with a total area of ​​​​up to 4 m 2, it is worth stopping at a fiberglass or plastic bath. The minimum depth of such a tank should be about 800 mm - the water in such a pond will warm up evenly in summer, and in winter it will not freeze to the bottom.

A ready-made container as a basis for a garden pond will allow you not to engage in cutting and fixing (activities performed when installing the film base of the pond), there is no need to build a general configuration - everything has already been done, the container is equipped with terraces for planting aquatic plants. The choice should be taken carefully - it will not be possible to change it.

Ready-made bathtubs for the pond are sufficiently durable, they are not afraid of winter frosts. And yet, when transporting the pond tank to the site, it must be handled carefully and not stepped on. The wall thickness of such a tank is 3 mm, and in case of mechanical damage, cracks will appear, which will be difficult to seal.

Cheap plastic bathtubs have the shortest service life - they are gradually destroyed by sunlight, and the surface of such containers cracks when bent. Unlike them, tanks made of reinforced plastic are more resistant to ultraviolet radiation, have a greater margin of safety (they are more plastic) - the service life of such tanks for ponds is up to 20 years.

The best and therefore the most expensive are fiberglass tanks with a rubber backing. A reservoir based on them will last more than 30 years and, unlike plastic containers, they can be repaired without compromising general characteristics. Fiberglass is the most resistant to low / high temperatures and exposure to sunlight, it has high environmental performance and is completely safe for the flora and fauna of an artificial reservoir.

In addition to quality characteristics, fiberglass containers also have an aesthetic appeal: they can be of three colors - black, brown and green; a decorative coating imitating natural materials is applied to their edges, which makes it easier to give the artificial pond a natural look.

Fiberglass bathtubs are made not only for ponds, but also for streams. Containers for imitating a stream have an outwardly “stone” texture and easily fit into the overall landscape, and a multi-stage shape allows you to conveniently plant aquatic plants. The bed of such a stream is fenced on the sides with protrusions that protect the roots of plants from washing out.

Artificial reservoir with film waterproofing

The laying of flexible coatings is carried out both in a prepared pit and between erected walls raised above ground level. Such a decision in creating a pond in the country is justified if the estimated size of the future reservoir is larger than the parameters of the rigid shells offered by specialized stores. The film coating is also used when creating reservoirs of complex shape - the use of a waterproofing film will greatly facilitate this task.

To create a reservoir, you can use polyethylene (thickness 500 microns), laid in two layers, among other film coatings, its cost is the lowest. Although the characteristics of polyethylene are more than minimal: it is easy to tear (by sharp stones, animal claws, etc.), it becomes brittle under the influence of the sun, and if damaged, it is practically impossible to repair. Polyethylene coating will provide waterproofing of the reservoir for no more than 5 years (on average - 3 years). This is rather a temporary solution for those summer residents who do not like constancy - after three years there is an excellent reason to change the place of the pond.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coating will cost more than polyethylene, but it will also last longer - on average, about 8-10 years. Manufacturers offer two types of PVC coating: the usual two-layer and reinforced, in which a woven mesh is laid between the layers of the film (for strength). In general, such a coating has all the disadvantages of polyethylene. Solar ultraviolet damages the strength of the PVC film, it is easy to perforate. But, unlike polyethylene film, damage to PVC film can be repaired using a special repair kit. In addition, this film stretches better - after filling the reservoir with water, most of the folds will stretch and even out.

The best pond film is made from butyl rubber - this material is durable (service life of about 50 years), strong and indestructible by ultraviolet light. Butyl rubber film comes in three colors: black, stone-like and charcoal-like. If the soil in your area contains a large number of stones, or the construction of a reservoir with a high load on the base (great depth and considerable width of the pond) is planned, choose a butyl rubber coating and you will not be mistaken.

Characteristics of butyl rubber coating: high plasticity, ease of installation, regardless of the season and air temperature. Low temperatures do not affect this coating, so it is not necessary to drain water from the reservoir for the winter.

Film for the pond - which color is better

The color of the film will seriously affect the overall appearance of the reservoir. The black bottom will turn the reservoir into a kind of mirror, reflections of the sky and clouds, plants planted along the coastline will be clearly visible in it. A film of black or brown color will serve as a good imitation of natural bottom soil. A cream or blue bottom will look unnatural, but colorful fish look great against such a background. If you choose a grayish or bluish tint, the pond will look like a swimming pool. Choose the color of the film depending on the functions of the reservoir: if it is a pond - black or brown, if the pool - white or blue.

Create a decorative pond using a film

We draw the contour of the future pond at the selected place and determine the required film size. The calculation of the film coating is done as follows: the width and length of the canvas will be equal to the sum consisting of the size of the width (in the second case, the length) of the future reservoir, twice the size of the depth and 600 mm allowance for fixing the film along the edges of the pond.

It must be taken into account that the standard parameters of a roll of butyl rubber film are as follows: width from 4.5 to 15.25 m (more precisely, then 4.5; 6.1; 9.15; 12.20 and 15.25 m) , length - 20-25 linear meters. Sometimes it is easier to make adjustments to the parameters of the future pond than to glue pieces of film together. If there is a need to glue a film for a pond, this is quite possible, only special adhesives and adhesive tape produced by the same manufacturer as the selected film will be required. To obtain a high-quality seam when gluing a butyl rubber film, use mastic followed by hot vulcanization.

In addition to the waterproofing film, when forming the bowl of the reservoir, geotextiles will be required (optimal density - 350 g / m 2) - for the insulating coating, it will act as a protective layer (from the roots of trees, teeth and claws of animals, sharp stones, etc.).

To create a reservoir with your own hands, you will need: sand (for the underlying layer), a spirit level (building level), a coil of cord (or twine for marking), wooden pegs, a garden hose, shovels.

We create a pit of a reservoir

First of all, evaluate the future shape of the reservoir, for this with a hose of sufficient length and pegs - change the position of the hose fragments until the shape of the reservoir bowl suits you. When planning a free-form pond, try to get rounded lines without sharp corners - such a pond will look better. In the process of planning the pond, mark out terraces for pond plants along its edges, they are performed at a depth of 300 mm.

Having decided on the shape of the reservoir and completing the markup, proceed to work on the pit. First, three-hundred-millimeter terraces come off (after filling the reservoir, the distance from the terrace to the water level will be about 200 mm). The banks of the future pond should have a slope of approximately 45o. In the process of creating a pit, try to remove all plant roots and stones that come across to you. Having completed work on the terraces, check the horizontality of the banks using a board with a spirit level laid on it.

The next stage of work is the formation of the main bowl of the reservoir, its deep part. Remember: the minimum required depth of the reservoir is 600 mm. Such a reservoir will not freeze completely in winter, and in summer pond fish will be able to find shelter at such a depth from the scorching rays of the sun. Then, along the coastline, it is necessary to dig a ledge with a depth of 60-70 mm, for the subsequent laying of a blind area of ​​tiles, bricks, natural stone or laying turf.

We form a drainage layer and waterproofing

Having completed work on the pit, it is necessary to pour washed sand over its entire area with a layer of 30-50 mm - the sand is placed on the bottom, banks and terraces, carefully rammed. After making sure that the sand drainage is done well enough (there are no bumps), place a geotextile on top to isolate the film coating from damage.

The next step will be laying the prepared sheet of film. Do not try to align the film along the contours of the reservoir - let it sag over it - lay it loosely. Align the sheet of film along the banks, securing the edges with a sufficient number of bricks (stones).

Connect a garden hose to a water source and feed it in the center of the film laid over the pit - it will gradually sit down, taking the shape of a reservoir. Watch for drawdown by moving holding stones along the banks. After the artificial reservoir is completely filled, you need to wait a day, then cut off the excess film, leaving a margin of 250-300 mm along its edges (a blind area will be laid on them). Secure the edges around the perimeter of the pond using wooden wedges or wire arcs.

The next step is laying the blind area. Its width must be at least 600 mm, it is made of tiles, bricks or natural stone. The blind area must be laid on a cement mortar - if it is laid only on a pillow of sand, a person who steps on the tile can move down into the pond with it.

Summer residents planning a waterfall or fountain in an artificial reservoir need to lay and close the blind area with a water supply hose before laying the tiles on the cement mortar. The same should be done if there is a need for power supply to the pond (underwater floodlights, water pumps), passing a plastic or copper tube for the subsequent pulling of an electric cable.

Creation of a reservoir raised above ground level

For such a reservoir, at least one retaining wall is required. The foundation for such a reservoir is required, otherwise the pond bowl may be distorted.

The construction of a reservoir above ground level is carried out in the same way as the construction of an ordinary garden wall: the place and parameters of the future pond are determined, trenches are dug out for laying the foundation. After casting, the foundation must harden within two full days.

When creating a body of water that is half buried in the ground, dig a pit in the deepest part, then form terraces for planting (roughly at the level of the concrete foundation). Then carefully remove all the stones and lay a pillow of sand on the bottom of the pit.

Build retaining walls around the perimeter of the pond, carefully tracking the position of each row. Before laying the waterproofing film, wait 48 hours - the wall mortar must completely harden.

Lay the film in such a way that its edges protrude evenly from all sides of the supporting wall. If your future pond is rectangular or square, form folds from the film in the form of a neat accordion at the inner corners. The film panel must be temporarily pressed on top of the supporting walls with bricks.

Gradually fill the film hanging over the pond with water by moving or removing the pressing stones on the supporting walls, aligning the corner folds. After the reservoir is completely filled, cut off the excess film along the edges, keeping the indentation at half the size of the supporting wall (it will be covered with stones when forming the ridge). Remove water from the reservoir. To protect the edges of the film, we install ridge stones. The pond is ready - fill it with water, place plants and fish.

Decorating a country pond

In itself, a garden pond is not bad - you can put a gazebo near the water and relax on a hot afternoon in the shade and coolness, watching the game of fish in its depths. But you can turn it into something enchanting and colorful - fountains created by a system of pumps and underwater lighting will help here.

Pond pumps are produced in two versions: surface and underwater. Let's say you want a two-meter jet of water to come out of the pond - you need an underwater pump. If a two-meter fountain is not enough, choose a surface pump and you will be provided with a really high column of water.

The underwater pump is mounted at the bottom of the pond: first, a stone plinth is placed, the pump is placed on it and closed on top with a ceramic casing made to look like natural stone. A complete set (pump, plinth and casing) can be purchased from one retailer.

How an underwater pump works: it draws water from the bottom of the reservoir and sweeps it over the water surface with the help of special nozzles. If a fountain or waterfall is installed separately from a reservoir, water is supplied through supply pipes. Some models of pumps can supply water for both a waterfall and a fountain at the same time. The pump is powered by an electrical cable with waterproof insulation.

The surface pump is installed in a disguised brick chamber on the shore of a reservoir, not far from a fountain or waterfall. Water is supplied to the pump from the reservoir through a pipe with a mandatory filter at the inlet. The surface pump needs more technical equipment than the underwater pump - a drain system, filters (on the suction pipe), a suction system. Otherwise it will overheat.

The greatest effect from the work of fountains is achieved in reservoirs of the correct form. Fountains are placed in the center of the reservoir in such a way that the water thrown out by them does not fall on coastal plants.

The type of fountain and the height of the jet ejection depend on the type of nozzle installed on the submersible pump. The jet of water itself, depending on the installed nozzle, may have the shape of, say, a bell or a beating key. A boring fountain tube can be decorated with fiberglass, stone, bronze or ceramic cladding. If a cladding is used, then the water nozzle is attached to the brass connector with which the cladding is equipped. The cladding body is exposed either to the bottom of the reservoir, or to a special stand.

Lighting will help create a magical atmosphere in the evening and at night. Lighting equipment for private reservoirs is designed for power supply at 12 V. The power of halogen lamps in lamps can be from 5 to 75 W - it is enough for bright lighting, because the luminous flux of such lamps is 3 times higher than household ones.

Mini spotlights are installed on a special support or on a fountain nozzle, highlighting the scattered spray of water. There are floating lanterns, they consist of a light bulb placed in a sealed ball of glass. They can be lowered to a certain depth in a reservoir, suspended on a load, or installed at the bottom. Thanks to the equipping of the spotlights with colored light filters and rotary devices, the night pond will take on a simply stunning look.

How to take care of the pond

The natural balance of the reservoir will be formed quite quickly. To maintain it, it is necessary to remove all wind-blown debris and fallen leaves before this mass falls to the bottom and begins to decompose. It is possible that the bottom of the reservoir will have to be cleaned with a net every autumn, eliminating bottom debris.

To protect the water area of ​​the pond from falling leaves, you can use a fine-mesh net - it should be stretched over the mirror of the pond before autumn leaf fall and removed closer to winter. Or use a skimmer - a special pump for collecting floating debris.

To clean the bottom, a bottom vacuum cleaner is useful - its design resembles a conventional one, but there is no filter in it. Water from the bottom of the pond is sucked into the device, as the chamber fills up, the device automatically turns off and the container with mud must be emptied into the drainage system.

If you have settled fish in your decorative pond, then they will need oxygen. If it is lacking, use aerator pumps - they resemble aquarium ones, only larger and more powerful.

The main problem facing the owners of reservoirs with the beginning of the warm season is that the water in it turns green, which is caused by the active reproduction of protozoan algae. Most often, this problem is faced by owners of small reservoirs with a shallow depth and therefore quickly warmed up by the sun's rays. Water overheating can be prevented by using aquatic plants with large floating leaves (water lilies and capsules), as well as by planting oxygen generators - plants that fill pond water with oxygen (Canadian elodea, hornwort, swamp).

In early spring, when the plants have not yet had time to develop sufficiently, the use of chemical control agents (algicides) is required. However, these drugs are harmful to both humans and aquatic life - so they should be treated only as a last resort.

The danger for fish in the pond can be birds and cats, for them the fish is a subject of hunting. To protect pond fish from birds (for example, herons), you need to tighten the space above the shallow areas of the pond with a net or black threads (the latter solution is especially successful - black threads are practically invisible against the background of the water surface). An obstacle for cats will be a decorative wire fence (at least 150 mm high), usually used to fence flower beds.

The main threat to aquatic life in areas prone to frequent frosts is ice. The ice shell, which steadily covers the reservoir for more than a day, will lead to the accumulation of poisonous gases formed by the decaying remains of vegetation and, as a result, the partial or complete death of fish. It is necessary that part of the pond is always free of ice, a special small heater is the best solution. You should not try to break the ice using force - hitting the ice shell can stun and even kill the fish.

If your artificial reservoir has a great depth, use a pump to bring warm water from the depth to the water surface - this measure will prevent the formation of ice. As a last resort, in the absence of other methods and means, arrange an exhaust hole in the ice shell - with wormwood, for this, put a pot of boiling water on the ice (after the formation of the wormwood, do not forget to remove the pan!).

How to green up a pond

Aquatic plants perform an important task - they are a kind of water filters. The biological balance will be established when at least a third of the artificial reservoir is devoted to plants. Moreover, each type of aquatic plants requires planting at a certain depth.

So, the reservoir is finished, filled with water - it needs to be allowed to settle for 10 days and only then proceed to planting. The best time to plant aquatic plants is early summer.

You can plant plants in the laid soil at the bottom of the reservoir, but it is best to place them in mesh baskets, setting the latter to the bottom. It is easier to take care of plants in baskets - move them to a warm room for wintering and reproduce. The soil in the baskets is ordinary soil from the garden, its enrichment with manure, fertilizers or peat is not required. To keep the soil layer in the baskets from being washed away by water, a clean burlap or other coarse fabric laid on top will help. Place medium-sized gravel over the cloth to protect the roots from pond fish.

Before planting, remove especially long roots and old leaves from plants. After planting, compact the soil around the stem of the plant so that the distance between the soil and the edge of the basket is 40 mm.

Some types of pond plants do not require planting - they float freely on the surface of the reservoir, keeping themselves afloat. Representatives of such plants are water lilies and lotus. Such plants need to be closely monitored, because in favorable conditions they will multiply quickly and occupy the entire pond - periodically some of them must be removed. The main plant problem for any closed reservoir is duckweed, which reproduces rapidly and tends to capture the entire area of ​​​​the reservoir - do not plant it on purpose!

When buying aquatic plants, be sure to ask the seller at what depth they should be planted. When planting, stick to the measure - plants need light, and dense thickets on the water surface do not look attractive.

During the winter season, aquatic plants, whose natural habitat is a temperate climate, remain in the reservoir. If you have planted exotic plants from warm countries in the pond, then they should spend the winter outside the pond. Take them out and place them in a body of water indoors - an aquarium or a bath, before doing this, pruning especially overgrown plants.

An important point: when transferring plants for wintering indoors, do not forget to provide them with sufficient lighting.

Pond fish care

For the full existence of fish in a country pond, its depth should be no less than 1200 mm. At shallower depths, fish need to spend the winter outside the pond, otherwise they will die. Just bought fish should not be placed in the pond, give it time to acclimatize - it should get used to the temperature of the water in the pond. Let the container with the fish swim in the pond - this measure will avoid the shock state of the fish.

If you did not purchase fish from specialized stores, then you should not immediately release them into a garden pond. Place them in an aquarium by filling it with pond water. The time of such quarantine should be at least seven days - so you find out if the fish is sick.

Now about fish nutrition. In principle, there should be enough food for them in the pond: duckweed, algae, mosquito larvae and other insects living at the bottom of the reservoir. However, if there is not enough food or the number of fish increases, it needs to be fed. Purchase fish food in specialized stores - it contains everything necessary for pond fauna, in addition, such food is enriched with oxygen and will not become a source of pollution for the pond, it will float on the surface for some time. Give the fish as much food as they will eat in 10 minutes, otherwise it will still sink and rot.

A special need for vitamins occurs in fish in the spring, during this season increase the number of feedings. In autumn, when the temperature in the reservoir drops below 10 ° C, stop the feed supply completely.

Constantly monitor the condition of the fish, do not overfeed them, control their numbers (optimally: for 50 liters of water - one fish 100-150 mm long. Keep in mind that the fish is growing!).

A sick fish can be identified by its behavior: as a rule, it swims in circles and at the same time “staggers”, rubs its sides against objects in the reservoir, lies on its side on the surface. The presence of diseases is evidenced by “glued” fins, white coating on the eyes, snout, fins or gills. Having found a sick individual, immediately isolate it from the rest and place it in an aquarium. Then visit the pet store, describe the signs of the disease to the specialist and buy the necessary medicines.

The idea to dig a pond on my site came to me a few years ago. But, since this work is time-consuming and not easy in terms of a creative approach, its start was postponed for a long time. Finally, during another vacation, I decided to get down to business and follow step by step all the steps necessary to create a pond. It was decided to make the pond film, with a geotextile lining. Plant it with plants and get fish. Install an aerator for fish. Water circulation is also planned due to a small waterfall with three cascades. It was made initially, even before digging a foundation pit for a pond, from a pile of stones laid on a man-made clay hill. Water will be circulated in a closed circle from the pond to the waterfall using an inexpensive bottom pump.

That's all the original data. Now I will proceed directly to the story of the construction of the pond, trying not to miss the details.

First of all, I took a shovel and dug a pit with dimensions in terms of 3x4 m. I tried to make the shape natural, rounded, without sharp corners. Indeed, in nature, coastlines are always smooth, without straight lines, such must be followed when creating an artificial pond. At its deepest point, the pit reached 1.6 m below ground level. It could be done less, but in my case it is supposed to breed wintering fish, which requires a minimum of 1.5-1.6 m.

On the rise of the pit, 3 terraces were made. The first (shallow) - at a depth of 0.3 m, the second - 0.7 m, the third - 1 m. All are 40 cm wide so that it is possible to install pots with plants on them. Terracing is performed for a more natural look of the water surface. And also for the placement of aquatic plants, the number of terraces and their depth will depend on the type of which. You need to think about this in advance. For planting cattail, for example, you need a depth of 0.1-0.4 m, for nymphs - 0.8-1.5 m.

The pit for the pond should be multi-level, with several terraces

Stage # 2 - laying geotextiles

The pit was dug, stones and roots were taken from the bottom and walls. Of course, you can immediately start laying the film, but this option seemed too risky to me. Firstly, seasonal ground movements can cause the pebbles that were in the thickness of the soil to change their position and break through the film with sharp edges. The same will happen if the roots of trees or shrubs growing nearby reach the film. And the last factor - there are mice on our site that dig underground passages and, if desired, can easily get to the film. Need protection. Namely, geotextiles. It just will not allow rodents, roots and other unpleasant factors to damage the film.

I bought geotextile 150 g / m 2, carefully laid it out and brought the edges a little to the shore (about 10-15 cm - as it turned out). Temporarily fixed with stones.

The geotextile is laid with the edges on the shore

Stage #3 - waterproofing

Perhaps the most important stage is the creation of waterproofing. They can be neglected if the hydrogeological conditions of your site allow you to create natural reservoirs. But such cases are very rare and it is better not to take risks, so that later you do not have to redo everything.

So, waterproofing is needed. In my case, this is a dense butyl rubber film specially designed for ponds and reservoirs.

Initially, I want to dissuade you from using plastic films sold in ordinary hardware stores and used for upholstery of greenhouses. Especially if your pond is big enough. Such isolation will lie for 1-2 years, then, most likely, it will leak and you will have to redo everything. An extra headache and spending are provided. You need a special film, for ponds - PVC or butyl rubber. The last option is the highest quality, the strength of the butyl rubber film is enough for 40-50 years for sure, and maybe even more. The advantage of rubber waterproofing is that it stretches perfectly. The pressure of the water in the pond will sooner or later lead to subsidence of the soil. The film in this case is stretched. PVC may crack or come apart at the seams. Butyl rubber will simply stretch like rubber, it can withstand significant stretching without consequences.

I calculated the dimensions of the film needed for my pond as follows: the length is equal to the length of the pond (4 m) + double the maximum depth (2.8 m) + 0.5 m. The width is determined in the same way.

I spread the film over the geotextile, bringing the edges 30 cm to the shore. I tried to smooth out the folds on the bottom and walls, but I didn’t really succeed in this. Decided to leave it as it is. Moreover, the folds will compensate for temperature changes and it is not necessary to pull it too tightly.

A pit lined with butyl rubber will hold water in the pond

After laying out, it is necessary to fix the edges of the film. It is impossible to leave them open on the ground, since water will get between the film and the walls of the pit. Inevitably, the appearance of water bubbles, due to which the film will have to be removed. And this is very difficult, especially with large pond sizes.

I decided to dig in the edges of the film and thus firmly fix them. At a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the pond, I dug a groove, 15 cm deep. I laid the edges of the film inside and covered them with earth. From above he overlaid the whole thing with sod. It turned out to be a real coastline overgrown with grass!

Stage # 4 - running water

Now you can run water. I threw a hose into the pit and pumped water from the well with a pump. Water was collected for several hours. As the folds of the film were filled, they were knocked down, they had to be straightened. But in the end, the stretch turned out to be quite uniform.

A pond filled with water must settle for some time to establish a biobalance

There is one more important detail worth mentioning. Together with clean water from the well, I poured a bucket of water from a natural reservoir into the pond. This is necessary to accelerate the formation of biobalance. In other words, water from a reservoir with an already existing biosphere will help to quickly establish the same in a new pond. There will be no balance, the water will become cloudy and green in a matter of days. And soon it will not resemble a pond, but a swamp with a greenish slurry. Plants planted in the water at the bottom will also contribute to the activation of the biosystem.

I immersed the pump to a depth of 0.5 m, it supplies water to the upper cascade of the waterfall and to a small garden fountain. Separation of water is regulated directly on the pump.

The circulation of water in the pond occurs due to the fountain and waterfall

Stage #5 - planting plants and launching fish

Plants are a separate issue. I wanted to plant a lot of things so that the pond immediately, from the first days, created the appearance of a natural, natural reservoir. So I went to the market and picked up marsh irises, callas, water hyacinths, a few nymphs. For landscaping the coast, I took a couple of bushes of lobelia, loosestrife, and white calla lilies.

Upon arrival, this seemed not enough to me, so I made a trip to the nearest pond (from which I drew water for biobalance) and dug out several young cattail bushes. It will grow and purify the water. It is a pity that there is nothing more suitable in this pond. And then you wouldn't have to buy anything. Perhaps you will be more lucky and in the nearby pond you will find all the plants for planting your own pond. After all, almost all aquatic plants grow in our natural reservoirs. With some luck, you can find and pick sedge, cattail, yellow irises, calamus, derbeinik, yellow egg capsules and much more.

On the upper terrace I placed balcony boxes and baskets planted with cattails, callas, water hyacinths, marsh irises. I planted it in heavy fertile soil, covered it with pebbles on top so that the fish would not drag the soil and tear out the roots.

I planted nymphs in baskets - I have 4 of them. He also covered the top with pebbles. I placed the baskets on the middle terrace, the one that is 0.7 m deep. Then, as the stem grows, I will lower the basket lower until I set it permanently 1-1.5 m above the water level.

In shallow water, aquatic plants are planted in baskets and boxes

Nymphaeum flowers last only a few days, then close and fall under water.

Lobelia and loosestrife were seated along the coastline. I also dug calla bulbs there. The loosestrife very quickly began to lower its branches directly into the pond. Soon the film on the rise will not be visible! Everything will be overgrown with grass, loosestrife, calla and other planted plants.

At first, the water in the pond was clear as a tear. Thought it would be like that. But, after 3 days, I noticed that the water had become cloudy, the bottom was no longer visible. And then, a week later, she became clean again - a biological balance was established. I waited another two weeks and decided that it was time to release the fish - all the conditions for her living were created.

I went to the bird market and bought several suitable specimens of comets (almost a goldfish) and crucians - gold and silver. Only 40 fish! Released everyone. Now they frolic near the fountain.

The pond with running fish looks magical!

For a comfortable stay of the fish, an aerator was connected. The compressor is 6 W, so it works constantly, it is not expensive in terms of electricity consumption. In winter, an aerator is especially useful. Saturation of water with oxygen and polynyas will be provided.

This master class can be completed. I think it turned out very well. The most important indicator of this is clean water. As such, I don't have mechanical filtration. The balance is regulated by many plants, an aerator, water circulation through a waterfall and a fountain using a pump.

In terms of finances, most of the funds went to butyl rubber film. I dug the foundation pit myself, if you have to pay an excavator or a team of diggers, then the hole will be dug out quickly. Plants are not too expensive (and if they are taken from a natural pond, then they are generally free), fish are too.

So everything is real. If you are not afraid of significant labor costs (especially for digging a pit) and the need for a creative approach - go ahead. As a last resort, if you are unlucky with a designer vein, look through photographs of ponds in magazines or on the pages of specialized sites. Find something you like and try to make something similar for yourself. And then - enjoy the result and your own reservoir on the site.

Ivan Petrovich

Benefits of a basin pond:

• arrangement takes a minimum of time;
• fits perfectly into the design of any site;
• if necessary, the pond in the basin can be easily transferred to another part of the yard;
• needs minimal care;
• is a budget option, practically does not require financial costs.

Artificial reservoir from a basin make it very easy. An old metal or plastic basin is taken, dug into the ground. If the basin is full of holes, then its bottom is covered with a construction film. It is desirable that it be thick and durable. Optionally, the bottom of the basin can be decorated with stones and shells. A pond already filled with water is decorated with live or artificial plants, and the “shores” of the reservoir are lined with natural stone or pebbles. You can lay out paving slabs.

A mini-pond from a basin will be much stronger if the bottom and walls of the basin coat with cement mortar. In addition, if you plan to put frogs in the pond, it will be much easier for them to get to the surface on a cement surface than on a slippery film.

The solution is prepared as follows: mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 and dilute with water. Stir well until the density of sour cream, so that there are no lumps left, and coat the basin. Layer thickness - 2 cm. Until the solution at the bottom of the basin has frozen, various compositions of stones can be made in it. A basin covered with cement is left to dry for at least a day. After that, it can be painted with black water-repellent paint. When the basin is filled with water, the black color will give the surface of the water the effect of a mirror.

For mini-reservoirs with aquatic plants, it is better to use basins with a depth of more than 15 cm. In shallow basins, the water will quickly heat up in summer, and in frosts it will freeze to the bottom and the plants will die.

Device

In order for the decorative pond to please the eye, first of all, it is necessary to choose the right place for the reservoir.

Basic selection rules:

1. Choose a place in partial shade, so the water will bloom less, and aquatic plants will not wither in the sun.
2. Avoid open and well-ventilated places.
3. You should not place a pond under the trees, otherwise you will constantly have to remove foliage from the water, and the water will become clogged.

The pond should be located so that it can be clearly seen from everywhere. Choose a place so that the reflections in the pond are interesting and varied. For example, it can be clouds, trees, a house.

As a visual aid when choosing a place for a pond from a basin, you can use ordinary plastic wrap. Put it in the place of the planned reservoir, and take a walk, see: will the pond be visible from the main viewpoints of your site?

Mounting

How to make a small decorative pond from a basin in the country? The basin has been made, the place has been chosen, now we are starting to build a mini-pond with our own hands.

Tools and materials:

1. Shovel.
2. Pump (if a fountain is planned).
3. Clay or sand for the layer.
4. A small amount of cement mortar.
5. Natural stone of different sizes.
6. Pebbles for soil or gravel with non-sharp edges (if the basin is covered with a film).

Stages of work:

1. Dig a hole slightly larger than your pelvis. The edges of the basin should rise above the ground by 5 cm.
2. Make a layer of clay or sand under the bottom of the basin and between the walls of the basin and the pit. Such a “cushion” will allow you to install the basin more evenly, and the water in it will not heat up quickly.
3. The dug-in basin along the edges is poured with cement mortar. This is necessary in order for the reservoir to hold on tighter, and so that during rain the earth does not wash out from under the edges.
4. Soil is laid at the bottom of the basin, aquatic plants are planted in it (duckweed, vodokras, urut aquatic). You can decorate the pond with artificial flowers.
5. Fill the basin with water.
6. The area around the reservoir is decorated with pebbles or stones. It will look better when large stones are laid out first, and then medium and small ones.
7. Moisture-loving plants, such as ferns or callas, can be planted near the reservoir, and the adjacent area can be planted with lawn grass.

If the water in the pond is from the water supply, it must first be allowed to settle. The best option is water from the nearest natural reservoir, but rainwater can also be used.

Photo of finished ponds from a basin.

Basin Pond Care

In order for a miniature water garden to be clean and well-groomed, it needs change water regularly. Water is scooped out of the pond with a jar or bucket. If there are no planted plants at the bottom, pebbles are selected and washed with water. If the soil is shallow and difficult to choose, then pour a small amount of water and mix the soil with your hand, and then remove the water with a rag. This is repeated several times.

Walls and bottom of the basin wash with a sponge or cloth. It is worth doing this about once a month, otherwise the water will begin to “bloom” and microorganisms will start in it.

In nature, the role of natural orderlies of reservoirs is performed by snails. Therefore, you can populate your mini-pond with them so that they clean both plants and the pond itself from algae.

In hot weather, the water from the water garden evaporates very quickly, and you need to constantly ensure that its level is sufficient. Add water you need in small portions and slowly, so as not to damage the plants and decorative compositions at the bottom of the pond. If necessary, the pond in the heat can be protected with an awning or a canopy.

A miniature pond from a basin can be made on any site, and there are a great many ways to decorate it, it all depends on the author's imagination.

Subject to all the simple rules for the arrangement and maintenance of such a mini-pond, an artificial water garden will become a real decoration of the country landscape and the pride of the owners.

The time has passed when summer cottages were associated only with a shovel and potatoes. Today, it is primarily a place of rest from the bustle of the city, an opportunity to relax and have a good time in contact with nature.

It helps to achieve the desired relaxation by having your own lake, the creation of which is quite possible with your own hands, which will be discussed in this article.

A bit of history

Before undertaking installation work, let's turn to the origins of this engineering miracle.

The fashion for arranging our own reservoirs came to us from the East, while three different styles can be distinguished:

1. Near East . These are places where water is of particular value in light of its scarcity. Therefore, the extravagance of creating an entire artificial lake is inappropriate here. Instead, strict geometric forms of small sizes with built-in fountains are used.

1. China. Here the art of creating reservoirs resulted in a whole philosophy. It is customary to fit their features into the surrounding landscape so that they blend harmoniously with nature. The usual attributes are a lonely "dream island" in the middle of the water surface.

1. Japan. The lack of space instilled in the Japanese a craving for asceticism and the rational use of every inch of land. In this regard, the artificial reservoirs adopted by them are created in the form of a small vessel with water - tsukubai, which has a stylized stream flowing from bamboo pipes and dwarf trees planted along the coast.

From the East, the considered decorative element of the garden plot successfully migrated to the West and was reflected in the following two directions:

1. England. The local design of reservoirs, as well as in China, is in harmony with nature and fits perfectly into the surrounding landscape.

1. France. The so-called regular style is used, characterized by accurate zoning, the use of regular geometric shapes and reservoirs rising above the ground.

Creating your own reservoir

Making a country pond with your own hands is not easy, but it is quite possible. Let's go through all the steps in order.

Deciding on style

The design of the reservoir in the country should match its surroundings and please you. These are the two most important criteria.

So, if you place it in the depths of the garden, then you can follow the Chinese and British by disguising an artificial pond as a natural one. If you are planning to locate the tank near the house, then the regular style or geometric shapes of the Middle East will look more appropriate.

Choosing a place, dimensions and suitable building materials

Once you have decided on the overall concept, you need to make other equally important decisions:

1. Location . An artificial pond in the country should be illuminated for about five hours a day and be open from the southwest side.

This will provide two main, albeit conflicting, conditions:

• It will limit the intensity of algae reproduction, which will protect the water from rapid seasonal "blooming".

• It will ensure the normal development of ornamental plants decorating the pond.

1. Dimensions . Ideally, it is assumed that the home lake will occupy 3% of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. But not every gardener will dare to allocate 18 square meters of his standard six acres for decorative arrangement. In addition, the larger the pond, the higher the price of its creation.

Therefore, be guided by the choice of suitable sizes:

• With their material resources.
• Compatibility with existing buildings.
• Personal preference.

As for depth, the reservoir is usually divided into three stages:

Tip: in order for the fish to have a place to spend the winter, it is enough to dig a hole of the appropriate depth in the middle of the tank, and not make the whole pond like that. This will save the population and save your material costs.

1. Material . There are three possible options that differ in their reliability, cost and complexity of implementation:

Name	Application features
Concrete	Installation of formwork and reinforcement, mixing or buying ready-made mortar - all this leads to considerable costs and difficulties. Of course, the strength of such a design will be at a high level, so it is recommended to use such a laborious method for large multifunctional objects.
Plastic	The finished container made of polypropylene is much easier to install. In addition, manufacturers offer a wide range of its shapes and sizes. But even though the project will eventually come out cheaper than concreting, it still remains quite expensive and limits the flight of design imagination.
Film	As the saying goes: "cheap and cheerful." The low cost of the material, the ease of its installation and the ability to create a bowl of any shape make this option the most rational for a summer cottage.

Installation work

Now consider how to make a pond in the country on your own:

1. It all starts with a sketch. Try to depict everything on it in as much detail as possible and taking into account the scale. Also consider what will be the "highlight" of your composition: an unusually shaped stone, a decorative tree, or even a sculpture.

1. We apply sand marking the proposed contour at the selected location. At the same time, we check the level of the banks with the help of a spirit level, which should be done periodically during the entire period of construction work.

1. We carry out earthworks:

• We remove the first ball of earth with a depth equal to the height of the upper step.
• Then we draw the contour of the next deepening and dig it already.
• The last step in the center is to create a hole for wintering fish.

1. We measure the dimensions of the resulting pit, adding 50 cm of allowance, and according to the data obtained, we buy a dense plastic film.
2. We lay sheets of old roofing material or linoleum in a bowl to protect the polyethylene of the base layer.
3. Lay a film on top.

Tip: it is advisable to put polyethylene on a hot sunny day. This will give the material greater elasticity and allow it to go around all dangerous sharp areas without damage.

1. We dig a small trench around the perimeter, tuck the edges of the film into it and fill it with gravel.
2. We strengthen the edge with stone blocks to prevent soil shedding. We lay it out with a decorative stone.

1. Prepared plants are placed in plastic containers and installed on curtains.
2. We lay out the bottom with gravel.
3. We fill the tank with water. At the same time, measure the volume of liquid used for this on the counter, so that it is easier to calculate the required amount of chemicals and select the appropriate pumping equipment.
4. To prevent stagnation of H 2 O in the pond, we bring the source above the level of the bowl and connect to it the hose of the submersible pump, which is previously located at the bottom of the tank. We decorate the mouth of the received stream with stones and plants.

Conclusion

Having your own pond in your summer cottage is everyone's dream. But the apparent complexity and high cost of this undertaking can stop many.

We considered a way to build a reservoir on our own and without significant financial costs. Patience, accuracy, compliance with the above recommendations and creative imagination will allow you to achieve the desired result.

The video in this article will provide you with additional information that is directly related to the materials presented ().

Make your dreams come true!