Many home craftsmen dream of conducting independent cutting of lumber. This is a simple matter, but without suitable equipment it is almost impossible. So why not adapt a hand-held circular saw for this and assemble a table with the possibility of a longitudinal and transverse cut with your own hands?
In the four corners of the shoe, make one hole with a diameter of 10 mm. Drilling locations are arbitrary. Place the saw blade in the slot on the tabletop and align the shoe with the markings. Mark the centers of the holes made on the plywood and transfer them to the back side with a thin drill.
If there is not enough space in the support shoe to drill such large holes, use two steel plates with welded 6 mm studs, attach them to the base of the saw with wing nuts with star washers. In this case, remove the saw to handmade and return it to its place without additional adjustment will be a matter of five minutes. The plates, in turn, have one large hole each for secure mounting and initial adjustment of the position of the saw.
To fasten the saw to the tabletop, you need to use M8 ploughshare bolts with a countersunk cone head. under them with front side a hole of 8 mm is drilled and a countersink is made for the cap, which in the loose state should protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface. On the reverse side, the bolts pass into the holes of the support shoe (or steel plates) and are tightened under a wide and spring washer, or a nut with a plastic grower.
If the fitting was successful, the countertop must be fixed to the box. In the four corners of the plywood board, you need to drill one hole the same as for attaching the saw. The distance from the edges is half the side of the bar used plus the wall thickness of the box, in our case it is 30 mm. A 10 mm hole is drilled in the center of each bar, a steel screw M8x18 mm is screwed inside.
Once the tabletop is secured, turn the table on its side so that you have access to both the blade and the saw mounts at the same time. After removing the protective cover for a while, set the saw blade along the longitudinal axis of the table using a rail and square. After adjusting the disc, tighten the fastening nuts well. Using a ruler or level attached to the disc, mark the edges of the table and draw a line of the cut plane along them. Draw along the line several times with an awl, leaving a shallow groove, such a marking will definitely not be erased after long use.
Start button and electrical
The standard power button must be shunted, and if this is not possible, clamp it with a clothespin or harness. Instead of a button on the handle, a small electrical network will be used, laid inside the box.
On the outer front side of the box, install a double button "Start / Stop" with fixation. Its normally open contact is connected to a break in the power cable. The ends of the wire are connected to socket screwed with inside.
After the saw is connected and tested in operation, it is necessary to pull a triple-folded nylon stocking onto the air intake grille.
Cross cut guide
Trimming of parts is conveniently carried out in the presence of a thrust beam that moves along guides along the cut line. You can make this from ordinary 9 mm plywood.
All you need is a few boards:
- 150x250 mm 2 pcs.
- 100x820 mm 2 pcs.
- 150x820 mm 1 pc.
- 142x300 mm 1 pc.
As before, sawing plywood on precision equipment is preferable. Three long boards must be assembled in the form of a channel 150 mm wide and with shelves of 100 mm. Since the self-tapping screws will face the countertop, you need to pre-drill the plywood under them and recess the fasteners, and then process the traces with emery cloth. It is more reliable to use confirmations instead of self-tapping screws.
Boards 150x250 mm are screwed like channel plugs, the free ends are directed downwards. The remaining bar is screwed between the shelves exactly in the center. If this beam is placed on a table, the side boards will drop down the sides of the box with a gap of about 10 mm on each side.
Use furniture guides full extension on the ball bearings. First attach them to the beam, and then try on and screw them to the body. The fastening holes are oblong, use them to adjust the beam: it should slide over the tabletop with a very small gap and at right angles to the cutting plane. Pass the beam once with the saw running to make a cut at the bottom. For fast withdrawal and installation of the beam, it is recommended to snap off the plastic clips on the guides in advance.
Adjustable rip fence
It is much easier to dissolve the forest if there is a longitudinal stop. You can make it from an ordinary aluminum cornice or other light profile with perfectly even edge and stiffening ribs. You will need a cut along the length of the table, that is, 800 mm.
At 150 cm from the edges, make two holes of 8 mm and insert into them along the M8 bolt, orienting the thread down. Screw on the nut without the washer and tighten firmly. At the same distance from the edges of the table, draw two lines. At their intersection with the centerline of the tabletop, drill holes of 12 mm. One more hole is drilled on the same lines with an indent of 30 cm. Using a milling cutter or a jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is advisable to cut as evenly as possible.
The stop profile is inserted with bolts into these slots; after adjustment, it can be pressed with lambs with a wide washer from the inside. If the cutting width needs to be changed frequently, supply the table body with door hinges for easy opening. To make the adjustment of the stop faster, fasten the cut tape from the tape measure to the ends of the table.
A circular saw is used to cut wood along an array. Its cutting base is a disk-shaped plane with a serrated outer edge. Such saws are not only manual, but fixed on the table. How to do universal table for a circular so that you can install this cutting tool? Below are several ways to make a table for circular saw with your own hands.
DIY circular saw table
How to make a circular table from chipboard? To make such a table for a circular, you need:
- a sheet of laminated plywood 9-11 mm thick (800x800 mm);
- 4 sheets Chipboard thickness 16 mm (400x784 mm);
- several bars 40x40 mm;
- several bolts and screws;
- aluminum cornice.
On such a table, you can fix any manual circular saw with a big disk. Table drawings for this type of circular table can be easily found on the Internet.
Such a saw is made in several stages:
Guides for circular saws are made of timber or aluminum cornice.
The second version of the table for the circular. Photo manufacturing technology
A do-it-yourself saw table is made from boards, as the most available material, often. To make this table you will need:
- plywood sheet (thickness 20 mm and above);
- boards 50 by 100 mm;
- bars 50 by 50 mm;
- several screws;
- wood glue;
- one of the types of wood varnish.
A blank with a hole is cut out of a plywood sheet with a jigsaw - a tabletop in which the saw will be placed. When marking the holes, they are guided by the dimensions of the sole of the saw. Stiffeners are made from the boards, which will be attached to the countertop with self-tapping screws. In the process of fastening, the boards are pulled together with clamps. A start button is later installed on the front stiffener. For the manufacture of legs, boards about a meter long are used. They are attached from the outside to the stiffeners with bolts.
Video circular table from hand circular saw
Examples of finished tables for a circular saw
Do-it-yourself circular table is not always advisable. It can be too bulky and clumsy, and difficult to adapt to precise wood cutting. So if you don't mind spending some financial resources, it is better to purchase factory-made tables. They are made of durable and comfortable materials, safe when turned on. electric current and also have a factory warranty against breakage.
The Jet JBTS-10 circular saw has a retractable table on each side, which increases the area suitable for work. Thanks to the belt wire, the cut is noiseless, and the service life of the electric motor is also increased. The presence of an eccentric clamp eliminates the displacement of the machine during operation, which makes it convenient to use in any conditions.
Using table saw Caliber EPN-1100 there is the possibility of sawing wooden materials in the longitudinal and transverse direction, as well as under different angles. The tilt level of the saw can be selected and fixed.
IN sawing machine Encor Corvette-10M 90101 are used side and parallel stop which greatly simplifies the work. The saw blade can be tilted up to 45 degrees when cutting. An industrial vacuum cleaner can be connected to the machine to remove wood dust. At the same time, the device is characterized by lightness and small dimensions.
The use of a stationary circular saw Einhell TC(TH)-TS 820 allows you to work with lumber in conditions mass production. It is a suitable tool for processing not only wood, but also fiberboard blanks. The design of this model provides a hole into which devices are connected that produce wet and dry cleaning of the machine. At the same time, the equipment is so compact that it can be installed on any workbench.
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If you study the section on FORUMHOUSE " Homemade machines, tools and mechanisms”, then you can find “1000 and 1 option” fixtures for a self-builder, which you can’t buy in a store. It can be a stand for a "grinder", for accurate and fast cutting metal profile, a mini-lathe, as well as all kinds of armature and pipe benders and planers for aerated concrete. An interesting multifunctional and inexpensive sawing table, which was created by a portal member with the nickname id215711128.
id215711128
- How to make a saw table for a circular saw.
- What materials and details are needed for this.
Universal saw table for circular saw
So, at id215711128 There is a powerful circular, which is already more than 20 years old. Saw cutting depth 65 mm. During its operation, it turned out that it is difficult to achieve high-quality sawing of wood with its help. Reasons: the settings for the angle of inclination of the disk and the depth of cut are constantly lost. The sole of the saw is made of thin metal, as a result, it bends, and the geometry is not maintained when cutting the workpiece.
First, the user went the standard way - he began to modify the saw. He made devices for maintaining the perpendicularity of the cut. I put wedges to maintain the depth of the cut. I built the saw into the table as it is, but the frail M4 thread on the circular racks weakened and each new pass had to be adjusted again. Despite the difficulty of sawing, id215711128 made 5 casing boxes. "Accident", which gave impetus to the construction of a multifunctional saw table, happened when the craftsman was making sidewalls for casing the door.
id215711128
I sawed a two-meter beam. I already chose quarters, cut locks, it remains to choose longitudinal groove designed to fix the product on the wall. I made several cuts with a saw, and when the workpiece was almost ready, the circular lost its depth. I almost sawed the beam in half, completely ruining the part. That's it, I realized that I had enough of these "dances with a tambourine", and I needed a normal sawing table.
First the user bought in construction hypermarket plywood for countertops. Then developed technical task what requirements the table should meet. So:
- The maximum possible overhang of the saw blade is required.
- The saw blade must have an adjustable tilt angle - 90-45 degrees and a reach of 0 - max with reliable fixation of the specified parameters.
- Parts of a large section should be placed on the table, so the dimensions of the table are 1.22 x1 m.
- You need an adjustable and securely fixed parallel stop, as well as adjustable horizontal and vertical clamps for workpieces.
- The table should be multifunctional, with the possibility of further installation of a router and an electric jigsaw.
On the topic "universal carpentry fixtures" we recommend reading the articles: and.
Having defined the requirements id215711128 I thought about what to make the mechanism for raising and lowering the saw. The choice fell on a car screw rhombic jack.
But, having gone to the store for bolts, studs and nuts, the user forgot to buy it there. Because I didn’t want to go back, the do-it-yourselfer decided to replace the jack with a clamp, from which he cut off everything that was superfluous and welded the necessary one.
The design of the lift turned out to be simple and reliable.
Next came the turn of the circular upgrade. From it, the user removed the sole, the cover of the saw blade, because. it interfered, and disk protection. The disassembly of the saw was carried out with the expectation that, if necessary, it could be reassembled. The saw was installed on a lift.
The tilt of the saw is carried out using a homemade rotary mechanism made of hairpins and boards.
According to the do-it-yourselfer, because of the metric thread, the handles have to be rotated by a large number of revolutions, but with infrequent reconfigurations of the machine, this is not critical.
The parallel stop has a length of 1220 mm. To prevent shifting of the far edge of the workpiece when sawing it, the stop is equipped with an additional lock.
All parts are well matched to each other and precisely fixed on the table, because the geometry at the exit of the sawn workpiece depends on this.
id215711128
Tests of the machine showed that everything works as it should. The angles of inclination and the depth of the cut do not go astray.
At this stage, the user took time out and thought about how to upgrade the machine for sawing large workpieces. It came to mind to make a carriage, but it will “eat” about 1 cm of the cut depth. This can be critical, because casing parts are made of timber and have dimensions of 1.5-2 m, with a section of 10x20 cm. In addition, such a timber weighs a lot, and it is inconvenient to push it on the table. Exit - the workpiece stands still, and the saw itself moves.
id215711128
I remembered that when they sawed plywood for me in a construction hypermarket, they did it with such a “cunning” machine, saw blade which travels from top to bottom and from left to right. On reflection, I decided to make a cart with rollers and straighteners along which the saw would move.
To make the fixture, the user bought casters for a furniture trolley and a 5x5 cm corner. First id215711128 I decided to put only the lower and horizontal rollers. But, because due to the application of effort when moving the trolley, a distortion may result, the master put additional rollers on the trolley that rest against the lower surface of the tabletop.
Those. the trolley is fixed in three directions. This provides high precision her movements.
During the "break-in" of the table, it was necessary to adjust the alignment of the direction of the cut and the direction of movement of the trolley.
To do this, washers were placed under the fastening of the guide corners.
Having adjusted the machine, the do-it-yourselfer tested it by sawing a board with a section of 20x5 cm.
With a blade stroke of 260 mm, this was enough for precise sawing of the workpiece.
d215711128
Taking a simple circular as a basis, I managed to make a sawing and trimming machine with the possibility of longitudinal and cross cut. You can cut either by rigidly fixing the circular saw, moving the workpiece, or by moving the saw, with the workpiece clamped by clamps with adjustable depth and inclination of the disk. I plan to further refine the machine to make it even more functional and more convenient. For this you need to put:
- Quick-release fixed stop with a protractor for trimming workpieces at any desired angle when moving the saw.
- Movable protractor for handling small wooden products with a fixed circular.
The user has also set eccentric clamp for fixing the carriage in any of the positions of the saw.
The circular machine is the tool that no one can do without. House master. This equipment is especially relevant for country house or cottages. But work manual machine not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.
The way out of this situation can be to make this device with your own hands. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.
Build a frame for circular machine do it yourself very easy. For the manufacture will be needed the most ordinary lumber and quite a bit of time.
Before thinking about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subject. The main thing in the frame is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the base is a welded reinforced metal structure. But for do-it-yourself use, such a unit is not needed.
If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the frame can also be different.
First of all, you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use choose equipment where the power parameters do not exceed 850 watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or a country house, it is often necessary to saw a very large amount of wood.
That is, the power of the circular is required more. But experienced craftsmen it is not advised to buy saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase the cost of electricity.
The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed for it. For professional circulars, as a rule, establish the basis, welded from steel profile. Sometimes these beds are even concreted into the floor. Since the vibration of the device can lead to danger to life.
Technical features of circular machines
Depth of the intended incision. This parameter determines the thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine. This indicator in semi-professional and professional machines ranges from 5-8 cm. This is quite enough for cutting boards and thick plywood.
But it will be inconvenient to work with logs on this machine. In addition, it should be taken into account that this characteristic homemade saw decreases. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if the table frame is provided with the ability to lower or raise the disc.
When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular for the procurement of building materials, then this figure may be less. If you need a clean and even cut, then the speed is needed quite high. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture.
But even in this case, there are certain nuances. For cutting plastic materials this saw does not fit. Due to very high tool revolutions disk is warming up and the plastic starts to melt.
Therefore, it is better to choose an apparatus where the rotational speed is not more than 4500 rpm, in this case the frame for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional strengthening of the table is not required.
Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel should be safe. This rule is all the more important in the case when the open part of the saw is at the bottom of the table top.
In this version, the panel with switches is best placed from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin the direct assembly of the table.
Making a circular saw with your own hands
The simplest version of the frame for the circular is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool itself is attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. A special slot is made for the saw in the table lid.
The dimensions for the table can be changed as it will be convenient for you to work on it. For example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110-120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. Also, according to your desire, you can change the length of the tabletop.
If you plan to work with boards that have a length of more than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, it is necessary to make changes directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.
For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard, this material is not reliable enough.
Tools and materials for assembly
For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help to cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.
It is undesirable to fix stationary guides, since later you will not be able to change their position.
To build a table, you will need the following materials:
- sheet of iron;
- plywood sheet;
- beam size 50 × 50 mm;
- board size 50 × 100 mm;
- steel corner for guides;
- two clamps;
- hand circular saw.
You also need to pre-prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:
- Screwdriver, electric drill.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
- Measurement tools (tape measure, square, ruler).
- Hand mill or milling machine.
When everything is prepared, you can begin to assemble the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen collect countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the structural elements with your own hands. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.
Making a tabletop for a circular machine
The assembly of the table begins with the manufacture of the countertop. plywood sheet mark so that the two edges of the lid are in size with the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
The edge of the saw cut can be processed with a cutter, but this operation is optional. Since in the frame the main parameter is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.
From the bottom of the tabletop mark slot for circular circle . Why first you need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the footprint.
With help hand cutter choose bars to a depth of approximately 0.9-1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.
Then, when the seat is made, try on the saw and, if necessary, correct the recess. Mark the slots for the circle and fix the fasteners. If you want the circle to rise and fall, then you need to install pendulum mechanism for table top.
In this case, the slot must be made in the form of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downwards. directly frame for lifting mechanism the best thing make from steel that are welded to each other.
Making a table frame
The markings for fixing the transverse rails and longitudinal ones, which act as stiffeners, are best installed on the wrong side of the tabletop. The planks themselves are made from a bar. You will need:
- Two transverse parts, long equal to the width of the countertop minus 7-9 cm on each side.
- Two longitudinal ribs, equal in size to the length of the cover minus 7-9 cm on each side.
Then you need make nests for screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.
The first fastener must be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached from the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the tree.
First fix the transverse ribs. To make the table cover as strong as possible, the edges of the rail must first smear with carpenter's glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.
The tabletop is allowed to dry completely. After that, the longitudinal rails are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together with two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.
Mounting legs (supports)
Table legs are made from timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the worktop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg descends from below to an angle. So, the area of the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of the top.
It is best to secure the legs with steel corners. They need to be slightly pressed so that the base of the machine is in the "strut". This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners, they are fastened with caps outward. Otherwise, during operation, you can be injured on the protruding parts of the fasteners.
The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are pulled together with diagonal rails. They are attached in pairs from each side of the machine.
Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet for coating, which is mounted on self-tapping screws. At the very end, on the prepared place, the tool is attached directly.
On the table top additional markup, it will help to cut wood evenly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on outside machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the legs of the table. That's all, the circular saw with your own hands is ready.