One of the popular materials used for the manufacture of knives is alloy steel high-speed(abbreviated as quick cut).
Considering characteristics high-speed steels, it should be noted:
- high heat resistance at temperatures below 600 0 С;
- high hardness up to 70HRC;
- increased wear resistance at high temperatures;
- resistance to deformation (destruction).
High speed steel of different grades for hunting knives
The indispensable tools of a hunter, applicable for protection against an attack of an animal, skinning during cutting, paving a path in the wild forest, are Hunter knives... Length, shape of the blade, as well as the material for these knives depend not only on the type of hunting, but also on individual preferences. The most common are HSS knives P18.
Steel R18 - instrumental high-speed, where R denotes tungsten and 18 - the percentage of tungsten in become... It is used for the manufacture of tools that retain their properties when heated during operation up to 600 0 С and blades of hunting knives. Knife models Bizon, Varan, Hussar, Mongoose are produced with blades from high-speed become P18, hardness 64 HRC. Blade length - 145mm, butt thickness - 4mm. The handle is made of various materials - wenge ebony, ebonite, leather.
Popular and steel knives quick cut P12, they are easy to grind, have excellent cutting properties due to the plasticity and increased toughness of steel, they include:
- Hunter knives model Berkut, from quick cut P12, have a blade length of 155mm, a thickness of 4mm, the handle is made of black hornbeam with grooves for fingers;
- knife East, steelР12М, hardness 67 HRC, blade length 155mm, butt thickness 3.2mm, the handle is made of hornbeam;
- knife Beaver, steel R12M, blade length 135mm, butt thickness 4mm, the handle is made of wenge, the shape of the blade with a lowered point is suitable for cutting carcasses and facilitates skin removal.
Hunter knives with blades from quick cut P6M5 have high hardness 67-68 HRC, high toughness, cutting edge knife keeps sharpening for a long time and does not need to be edited. Popular models:
- hunting knife Zimardak - blade length 120mm; knife Hunter - blade 109mm long;
- Oksky knife - blade 147mm long;
- Bison knife - blade 180 - 190mm long, butt thickness 3-5mm, handles are made of hard African bubinga, burl, walnut, black hornbeam, wenge wood and cupronickel.
Knives steel P18 in comparison with knives, P6M5 steel has greater hardness, superior in cutting properties and keep sharpening longer, but have lower toughness and strength.
Basic folding knife models
Folding knives are practical and convenient, you can always take them with you, while placing them in almost any pocket. Such knives perform various functions and differ in the following types:
- classic folding knives with a hollow handle without a locking mechanism;
- folding knives with a locking mechanism, open with two hands, are inconvenient in extreme situations;
- tactical knives open quickly and easily, which can be dangerous for the owner;
- automatic folding knives open by pressing a button or a lever, are compact and convenient to use, have a high cost.
Quick-cut folding knives are in no way inferior to hunting in quality.
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Hello everyone, I present to your attention a knife sharp as a blade from a fast cutter P6M5, which you can make with your own hands. This steel is actively used in the manufacture of various cutting tools, including metalworking tools. Drills, various cutters, saw blades and so on are made from it.
This steel is quite durable, it is enough for long-term hard work. This steel does not lose its strength even under high temperature loads. The only drawback of such a metal is that it is very difficult to harden it with your own hands. Hardening requires repeated heating, tempering, and special chemicals such as saltpeter for cooling. But if you process the metal carefully, without overheating, then you will not need to harden it. So, let's take a closer look at how to make a knife from R6M5 steel.
Materials and tools used by the author:
List of materials:
- steel R6M5 (hacksaw blade);
- a piece of wood for the handle;
- epoxy adhesive;
- a piece of brass for the handle;
- oil or varnish for impregnating the handle.
Tool list:
- grinder;
- vice;
- grinder;
- orbital grinder or machine;
- drill;
- clamp (the author has a homemade one made of wood);
- marker;
- sandpaper;
- jigsaw.
Knife making process:
Step one. Cut out the main profile
First, we need to figure out how our knife will look like. Draw the profile of the knife on the workpiece using a marker. Well, then you can start cutting. We cut the workpiece using a grinder, but there is one nuance when cutting P6M5. This steel is quite brittle, it breaks when it is strongly bent. All we need to do is make small cuts with a grinder in those areas that we need to remove. Well, then we break them off with pliers, like glass.
Step two. Modifying the profile
Now our rough profile needs to be finalized. For this we need a grinding machine. We just go through the contour and remove the excess metal. This metal is grinded off quite easily. We process the shank in the same way, you can make small grooves on it so that the handle sticks well to it.
Step three. Bevels and sanding
We form bevels on the blade. For these purposes, the author adapted a circle made of sandpaper on a grinding machine. The blade must be fixed in a special device that can be made from a corner. Well, then slowly slowly form bevels. Try not to overheat the metal, as carbon may burn out and the steel will no longer be as hard as it was originally. We dip the blade periodically into the water
We make symmetrical bevels on both sides or only one if desired. At the same step, you can carry out the primary sharpening of the blade.
Then you can start grinding, we work on the same machine. We grind the metal until we have removed all the paint, rust, and so on. If the original material is of high quality, it can be brought to a mirror finish.
The final processing is carried out by hand using fine sandpaper dipped in water. Well, at the very end, the blade can be polished on the machine using GOI paste or another paste.
Step four. Brass insert
There is a brass insert in the front of the handle. We select the desired piece of brass and drill a number of holes in it. Then these holes are bored with a flat file so that the blade shank can enter. At the same step, you can immediately give the workpiece an oval shape on a sharpener. The author immediately polished the part on the machine, since then it will be much more difficult to do this.
Step five. Blank for handle
The author makes a pen from a piece of a branch, it is important that the material is dry. We drill a hole in the wood for the shank. The author drilled it in order to get a beautiful pattern in the form of rings on the back of the handle. For convenience, the workpiece can be made rectangular on a circular.
Now you can glue the workpiece, for this we dilute the epoxy glue, carefully hammer the shank into the wood with glue, not forgetting to put on the brass insert. Next, the entire structure must be tightened with a clamp. The author has a self-made clamp, made of three blocks, as well as threaded rods and washers. We leave the whole thing to dry, the epoxy is guaranteed to dry for at least 24 hours.
Step six. Final revision of the knife
When the glue dries, we take out our knife and draw the desired handle profile with a pencil. Next, we cut off the excess with a jigsaw, the fastest way to do this is with a jigsaw. We grind the handle to get the desired profile, rough processing can be done on a grinder or grinder. Well, the finer processing is carried out manually using sandpaper. We make the handle absolutely smooth.
When the handle is finished, we saturate it with oil, and stain can be applied to add color. Also, the handle can still be polished with beeswax, then it will look great. The author's pen turned out to be of a rather interesting shape with a beautiful pattern.
That's all, the knife is ready, now you just have to sharpen it to the state of the blade. The author's knife is so sharp that it can easily cut paper.
I hope you enjoyed the project and found useful information for yourself. Good luck and creative inspiration if you want to repeat
Such a gift was given to me by my father, or rather, I bought it for 10 iron rubles, a bargain.
At first I was skeptical about the idea of making this knife, but when I took the finished product in my hands, I realized that it was mine. The handle is made of ash, it fits comfortably in the hand. The knife turned out to be very light, the hand does not get tired when working. Blade length 14 cm, handle 11.5 cm.
The knife required some modifications. First, it was necessary to process the tree. I entrusted this to my friend, a passionate knife lover, Kosaty. The handle was treated with shelf oil and stained. I was pleased with the work of the master, for which many thanks to him. I started to like the knife more and more.
The next step is to dress him. The scabbard was made for me by an "old" taiga, a lauren and just an excellent person, Alexander Bolotsky, for which he also thanks a lot. The scabbard is made of wood, covered with leather. The knife sits tightly, it will never fall out of them. Verified by personal experience. All my knives are sheathed in its sheaths.
Skin color matched to the handle.
The last stage, sharpening. It was made by the author of the knife, and now I am the happy owner of a homemade knife from a "quick cut". Dad immediately warned me that the metal is fragile, but he should keep the sharpening well.
A ten-day trip to the north of the region was planned ahead, a good reason to test it.
During the trip I used only this knife, once I only took out the "Mora". In the kitchen, he was the knife on duty, he coped with all the camp affairs at five. I cut and cleaned the fish without any problems, chopped branches for bedding, opened the stew. In general, he was not an irreplaceable assistant. I have not yet cut carcasses for them, but as a "camp" knife I have recommended from the good side.
Upon arrival, I decided to test its cutting properties after 10 days of intensive use.
I cooked a couple of dishes at home using this knife.
The meat had to be cut into thin steaks for baking and into goulash. Best of all, these pieces are obtained when the meat is slightly frozen. I decided to complicate it, the meat was completely thawed. The knife coped with the task perfectly.
The family of high-speed steels has a sufficient number of grades suitable for the manufacture of knives.
Some of them can be bought at the nearest construction market in the form of disc mills for metal, mechanical blades, cut-off turning tools, for owners of a forge there are also useful things like reamers, countersinks and large drills.
On sale you can find a circle calibrated and hot-rolled with a diameter from 5 mm to 270 mm in diameter and a hot-rolled square from 8 to 200 mm. You can also purchase a cold-rolled calibrated circle (the so-called silver) from 6 to 42 mm in diameter.
Fur canvases can be purchased in various widths and thicknesses. Long fur fabrics are somewhere around 400 mm, width from 25 to 60 mm (wide fabrics are rare, usually 40 mm wide), thicknesses are found from 1.8 to 2.3 mm. Cloths are usually found from such steels as R6M5, R18, R9, 11R3AM3F2, less often than other steel grades. Also, the canvas can be stamped with the letters HSS. This means High speed steel, high speed steel, without specifying a specific grade.
Blades are an excellent material for blades, although they are laborious in processing. The metal is usually hardened to 62:64 HRC or more, so no further heat treatment is needed.
To release high-speed steel, it is necessary to carry out 4 cycles of 3 hours at a temperature of 850 degrees.
So, they are afraid to let go of the steel during processing, it is not necessary on the same emery. You can burn metal, which, however, can only be done with fanaticism, out of ignorance and laziness to cool the workpiece. The canvases are well processed with a grinder, with a cutting disc it is also not scary to ruin the metal, it is difficult to radically spoil it and you have to try.
The statements about the increased fragility of the canvases are somewhat exaggerated. Naturally, you don't need to make a machete out of canvases, it will break all the same, but the knives come out in beautiful skillful hands. You shouldn't dig the hatches from the sewer either, the knives are not intended for that:
I personally conducted an experiment to study the fragility of canvases, with all my foolishness I threw canvases flat on a concrete slab, one walk broke:
High-speed cutters make excellent knives and chisels for woodcarving. Excellent sharpening and long-lasting dullness. Also, the advantage of knives from a quick cut is the ability to sharpen the RK to a total angle of 10 .. 15 degrees with a minimum thickness of the convergence of the descents. (see above link for knives for wood carving.) without loss of strength.
High-speed steels are not used for welded structures. Burst next to the weld.
Density of steels from 7900 (Steel 11R3AM3F2) to 8800 kg / m ^ 3 (Steel R18)
Forging temperature from 850 to 1220 degrees C.
The list of steels, and for what purposes they are used, is below:
Steel 11R3AM3F2 GOST 19265-73
Simple tools for machining carbon and low alloy steels.
Steel R10F5K5 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of finishing and semi-finishing tools (cutters, mills, countersinks, reamers, etc.) when processing various difficult-to-machine materials (stainless and high-strength steels with increased hardness, heat-resistant alloys, etc.). Has lower grindability and cutting properties in comparison with steel R12F4K5.
Steel R12 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of various cutting tools (cutters, broaches, chisels, shavers, taps, reamers, etc.) when processing structural steels instead of grade P18
Steel R12M3K5F2-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters, drills, reamers, countersinks, taps, broaches, cutters (worm, disk, end, special), chisels, shavers for processing high-strength steels, heat-resistant steels and alloys. (CI 103-MP)
Steel R12MF5-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters for machining medium alloy steels. Taps, broaches, cutters for finishing medium-alloyed, alloyed, corrosion-resistant and high-strength steels. (CI 70-MP)
Steel R12F3 GOST 19265-73
For finishing tools in tough austenitic steels and abrasive materials. Special properties - reduced tendency to overheat during quenching.
Steel R14F4 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of tools of a simple shape that do not require large volumes of grinding operations (cutters, countersinks, reamers, etc.) of finishing tools of a simple shape when processing alloy steels and alloys. Steel has a reduced grindability in comparison with the grades R6M5F3 and R12F3.
Steel R18 GOST 19265-73
Cutters, drills, cutters, thread mills, chisels, reamers, countersinks, taps, broaches for processing structural steels with strength up to 1000 MPa, which are required to maintain cutting properties when heated during operation to 600 ° C.
Steel R18K5F2 GOST 19265-73
For roughing and semi-finishing tools when machining high-strength, stainless and heat-resistant steels and alloys. Special properties - reduced tendency to overheat during quenching.
Steel R18F2 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of finishing and semi-finishing cutting tools (cutters, mills, reamers, drills, etc.) when processing medium-alloy structural steels, as well as some grades of stainless steels and heat-resistant alloys.
Steel R18F2K5 GOST19265-73
For cutting tools when machining hardened alloy steels as well as stainless steels. Special properties - increased tendency to decarburization and overheating during quenching.
Steel R6M3 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of finishing and semi-finishing tools of small sizes (mainly drills and countersinks, as well as disk cutters and other tools, the workpiece of which is a sheet and a strip) when processing structural materials with a strength of up to 90 kgf / mm ^ 2 (has a reduced grindability).
Steel R6M5 GOST 19265-73
All kinds of cutting tools when machining common materials of construction, and also preferred for making threading tools with impact loads.
Steel R6M5K5 GOST 19265-73
For processing high-strength stainless and heat-resistant steels and alloys in conditions of increased heating of the cutting edge. It is recommended instead of steel R18K5F, as more economical and instead of steel R9K5, as having higher (by 25-30%) cutting properties.
Steel R6M5K5-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters, drills, reamers, countersinks, cutters, chisels, shavers, for processing
medium-alloyed, corrosion-resistant steels, heat-resistant steels and alloys. (CI 101-MP)
Steel R6M5F3 GOST 19265-73
For finishing and semi-finishing tools (shaped cutters, reamers, broaches, cutters, etc.) when processing low-alloy and alloy structural steels. Special properties -
increased tendency to decarburization.
Steel R6M5F3-MP GOST 28393-89
Shaped cutters, drills, reamers, countersinks, taps, broaches, cutters, chisels. Shavers for processing low and medium alloy steels. Tools for cold and semi-hot extrusion of alloy steels and alloys. (CI 99-MP)
Steel R9 GOST 19265-73
For the manufacture of simple tools that do not require a large amount of grinding, for the processing of conventional materials of construction.
Steel R9K10 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of rough and semi-finished tools (cutters, hob bits, countersinks, etc.), when processing at high cutting conditions for carbon and alloy structural steels, as well as for processing stainless, high-strength steels and some heat-resistant alloys. It has lower toughness and cutting properties compared to R9M4K8 steel.
Steel R9K6 GOST 19265-73
They are used for the manufacture of rough and semi-finishing cutting tools (cutters, chisels, taps, etc.) intended for processing carbon and alloy structural steels at high cutting conditions, as well as for processing various difficult-to-machine materials. Has a lower durability (up to 20-30%) in comparison with steels R6M5K5 and 10R6M5K5.
Steel R9M4K8 GOST 19265-73
For processing high-strength stainless heat-resistant steels and alloys in conditions of increased heating of the cutting edge - gear cutting tools, milling cutters, shaped cutters, countersinks, taps. It is advisable to use for the manufacture of high-performance gear cutting tools in cases where the use of steels R6M5K5 and R9K10 is not effective enough. (EP688)