Sheets and polycarbonate profiles are easy to cut. For better cutting, you need use high-speed circular saws with emphasis... The blades for such saws must have fine, undivided teeth and be reinforced with hard alloys. When cutting polycarbonate panels, the profiles must be supported securely to avoid vibration. Cutting is also possible with a band saw.
After the panels are cut, it is necessary to remove shavings.
Drilling holes
Sealing the ends of the honeycomb polycarbonate panel
Important close the ends of the panels correctly... When oblique or vertical arrangement sheets, the upper ends must be sealed with a solid aluminum self-adhesive tape. The lower ends should be closed with a special perforated tape, which will prevent the penetration of dust and ensure the drainage of condensate. If the structure has arched view, then both ends must be closed with perforated tape.
We strongly recommend using similar colored polycarbonate end profiles. They are quite aesthetic, reliable and very comfortable. The design of such profiles provides for a fairly tight fixation at the ends of the panels and does not require additional fasteners.
To ensure the drainage of condensate, it is necessary drill several holes in the end profile.
It is forbidden butts cellular polycarbonate leave open, glue them with ordinary tape, and also tightly close the lower ends of the panels.
Orientation of polycarbonate panels during design and installation
In cellular polycarbonate, internal stiffening ribs are located along the length of the sheet (typical dimensions are 3m, 6 or 12m). The panel must be oriented in such a way that the condensation that will form inside the panel can drain through it. internal channels and displayed outside.
If the glazing has a vertical orientation, then the stiffening ribs should be located vertically, in pitched structure respectively along the slope. If the frame is arched, then the stiffeners should go in an arc, and not parallel to the ground. These conditions must be taken into account even at the design stage of the structure when calculating the number of sheets of cellular polycarbonate and their correct cutting.
For outdoor use, it is advisable to use cellular polycarbonate coated with a special protective UV stabilizing layer, which is applied to the outer surface of the panel. On this side, the polycarbonate sheet has protective film with special markings. We recommend assembling the panels without removing this film, but only after finishing the work.
It is forbidden bend panels along a smaller radius than indicated by the manufacturer for a specific thickness and structure of polycarbonate. Also, you can not violate the rules for the orientation of sheets.
Point fixing of panels
Point fastening of sheets of cellular polycarbonate to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws and special thermal washers.
Thermal washer Consists of a plastic washer with a foot, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the panel, a sealing washer and a snap-on cover. Such a device makes it possible to securely and hermetically fasten polycarbonate panels, as well as to eliminate the "cold bridges" created by self-tapping screws. In addition, the leg of the heat washer will rest against the frame of the structure and thereby prevent the material from crushing.
In order to compensate for the thermal expansion of cellular polycarbonate, the holes in the panels must be made 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the foot of the thermal washer. And if the panel is long, it is recommended to make the holes elongated along the sheet. The recommended spacing for point fixing is 300-400 mm.
Cellular polycarbonate panels it is forbidden fasten too tightly by overtightening the screws, use rivets, nails and unsuitable washers for fastening.
Panel connection and fastening
To connect the sheets of cellular polycarbonate to each other, one-piece and detachable polycarbonate profiles are used, which can also be transparent and colored.
Installation with one-piece profiles.
The panels are inserted into the grooves of the profile corresponding to the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate sheets. Then, using self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers, this profile is attached to the longitudinal supports of the frame.
Also, the panels can be mounted using split polycarbonate profiles... They consist of two parts: the lower part is the "base", the upper one is a snap-on cover.
Installation procedure:
- In the "base" holes are drilled, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The step is approximately 300 mm.
- Attach the "base" with self-tapping screws to the longitudinal support of the frame, and then lay polycarbonate sheets on both sides, leaving a "thermal gap" of about 3-5 mm.
- Using a wooden mallet, snap the profile “cover” along its entire length. Then close the ends of the profile with special plugs.
What needs to be considered when designing a structure frame for cellular polycarbonate
When designing a cellular polycarbonate cover, it is important to consider:
- standard sizes of sheets of material and their economical cutting;
- impact of snow and wind loads;
- thermal expansion of polycarbonate panels, for example, with a seasonal temperature change from -40 to + 40 ° C, each meter of a sheet of cellular polycarbonate will undergo a change of approximately 5.2 mm;
- when creating arched structures, the permissible bending radii of the panels;
- the need to complete cellular polycarbonate with mounting elements (self-tapping screws, thermal washers, connecting and end profiles, self-adhesive tapes).
Homeowners pay a lot of attention to the appearance of the home, trying to distinguish it from neighboring structures. Agree, to live in a beautiful, harmoniously finished house, however, when the economic crisis is on the verge, you involuntarily begin to look for ways to make decoration cheaper. Particularly noteworthy is the issue of choosing a material for sheathing gables, since it is literally the face of the house. However, it is not only the aesthetic appeal of this façade element that is important, but also its performance. This article will tell you how to choose the right cladding method and perform installation.
Pediment functions
The fronton is the part of the facade of the house, enclosed between the roof slopes.... It has a triangular, pentagonal and or trapezoidal shape and is made of material that is the same or different from the material of the main wall. The gable of the roof, in addition to the aesthetic function, performs the following tasks:
- Protects from the wind. The gable structure is exposed to wind load, so it must be strong enough.
- Supports roof slopes. Reliable gables are an additional measure of support for the slopes, which is especially important for roofs made of heavy roofing materials, for example, slate or roof tiles.
- Keep warm. The pediment is a protective barrier between warm attic rooms and cold atmospheric air... Therefore, the thicker the lining, the fewer gaps in it, the warmer it is in the house.
- Protection against atmospheric precipitation. The wall between the slopes should be sewn up to protect the finish of the under-roof space from moisture ingress.
- Improves appearance facade. The facade of the house will look beautiful if, with clapboard or other decorative materials.
Note! In the matter of choosing the cladding, experienced builders offer two ways: to sheathe the gable of the roof with a material similar in color and structure to the main wall decoration, or to highlight this area with a contrasting shade. A well-made stitching masks small imperfections in the masonry, irregularities or an unsightly appearance of the wall.
Sheathing of the pediment with clapboard
If you have limited financial resources, no better option in order to sheathe the pediment than the clapboard. This material has a rich texture natural wood and a pleasant color. It is fixed on a wooden frame made of bars using self-tapping screws or nails. Wood finishing has its own characteristics:
- Wood - natural material which is susceptible to microorganisms that cause mold and mildew. Therefore, the cladding of a house made of this material is destroyed without additional protection.
- The lining suffers from excess moisture. Decorating a house from lining needs processing paintwork repelling water.
- If you sheathe a gable wall of a house with wood material, you need to take into account the fire hazard of this material. The fire quickly absorbs the lining and spreads to the rest of the roof.
- Complexity of service. Protective coatings, necessary to protect the lining from fire, moisture and microorganisms, require reapplication every 1-2 seasons.
Mounting wood trim speeds up the construction process thanks to the convenient tongue-and-groove fastening. Such a system of connecting elements greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the gable wall trim. The lining is painted in any color or covered with a glaze antiseptic so that it is harmoniously combined with the shade of the roof and facade.
Note! If you decide to sheathe the roof gable with clapboard in order to save money, then keep in mind that such savings will be momentary. The service life of wood trim without treatment protective compounds is 5 years, after which the pediment loses its neat appearance and collapses. If you use an antiseptic, paint and fire retardant, you can extend the life of the lining up to 15-20 years. However, processing has to be repeated almost every season, so the total cost of this type of sheathing exceeds the price of more practical options.
Siding decoration
Professional builders are called the most inexpensive and practical material, with which you can sheathe the pediment - siding. Siding is called decorative panels made of polyvinyl chloride, metal or asbestos cement. They are equipped with hook locks along their entire length. To install the siding, a frame is mounted on the pediment from metal profile... This finishing method has the following advantages:
Important! The peculiarity of polyvinyl chloride is that when the temperature changes, the dimensions of the panels change slightly. Due to thermal expansion, they deform, burst, and unpleasant gaps form between the elements.
When choosing which material to use for decorating the pediment, think first of all about its durability and practicality. After all, house cladding, which requires notice after three seasons, is a dubious saving.
Video instruction
The most common way of finishing the ends of cabinet furniture parts from laminated chipboard consists in gluing or other type of edge with subsequent processing. Along with this, there is another common way of finishing the ends - inserting or gluing PVC edging. Kant is used, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture during its operation, high humidity as well as for design reasons.
Types of PVC edging.
Unlike the edge, in which the surplus is cut off during the edging process, the edging is produced immediately for the specific thickness of the slab (the most common are 16 and 32 mm), cutting the PVC edging along the length is not provided for by the technology. Also, it is not provided for joining the PVC edge at the corners. For edging of two adjacent ends, it is necessary to provide a smooth transition - to round the corner. The smallest possible radius of rounding is selected empirically for each edging individually, since it strongly depends on the rigidity of the edging, the size of the sides, and the features of the top (decorative) coating.
The edges of the edging can be either with sides (with girths, approaches to the plane of the material), and without them. Traditionally, edging with sides is used more widely for several reasons: it allows you to hide small chips of the laminate near the end of the part, protect the end from direct moisture penetration, is less demanding on accuracy technological process and the stability of the thickness of the material.
Furniture edging can be divided into two groups: mortise edging with a tenon (T-edging), an overhead edging without a tenon (C-edging). The cut-in edging is available with or without bumpers. There is no applied piping without collars. The technologies for finishing the end of the part with both types of edging differ radically, but (subject to the technology), in terms of operational reliability and consumer qualities, the C- and T-edging practically do not differ.
Examples of cut-in edge profiles: without sides for 32 mm chipboard (photo on the left), with sides for 16 mm chipboard (photo on the right).
The dimensions are approximate, depending on the edge manufacturer.
Cut-in edging.
Cut-in piping is the most common type of PVC piping. Since the T-edging has a thorn, for this, a groove (groove) of a certain width and depth must be made in the end of the chipboard, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the edging spike). The main tool required for the installation of the cutting edge is manual frezer with edge cutter, or its stationary version - a milling machine.If no special requirements are imposed on the milling cutter, a device of low power from 1 KW is sufficient, then the milling cutter must be selected according to a number of parameters. Firstly, the cutter must leave behind a groove of a certain width, namely 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the edging tenon. So how are u different manufacturers edging the thickness of the spike is different, then, ideally, to insert the edging into a 16-mm chipboard, you need to have two cutters with tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and for inserting a 32-mm edging - a separate cutter, or even two. However, in practice, in order to save money, it is sufficient to have only one cutter with a tooth height of 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of beats of the cutter and the shaft (collet chuck) of the milling cutter, such a tooth height can be considered universal, suitable for inserting the vast majority of T-edges of 16 mm. To make a groove of a much wider width, milling is performed in several passes, with a change in the cutter overhang. If beating of the tooling and / or tool is detected, it is necessary to choose a cutter with a lower tooth height, since beating can lead to a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter must leave a groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the edge spike, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, to be able to use the edge of any manufacturer (with any length of the tenon), you need a cutter that provides a groove depth of 10 mm. It is unreasonable to choose a cutter with an unreasonably high milling depth, as this reduces the resource of the cutter and leads to an increase in the load on the cutter. The sequence of operations when finishing the chipboard end face with mortise PVC piping shown below.
An example of measuring the thickness of the edge of the thorn for chipboard 32 mm.
Italian edging has a thicker spike and b O Greater rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
An example of measuring the thickness of the edge of the spike for a chipboard 16 mm.
Italian edging has a thicker thorn, b O Greater rigidity and height of the sides (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
Examples of measurements of the inner edge width
for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
The dimensions are approximate, depending on the edge manufacturer.
Cut-in edge cutter.
Groove depth W depends on bearing diameter d1, cutter diameter D
and is found by the formula W = (D-d1) / 2.
Step 1. Positions the cutter in the center of the end face with an accuracy not worse than +/- 0.5 mm.
Step 2. We grind (grind) the edges of the chipboard so that when the edging is stuffed with the sides, the laminate does not chip.
Step 3. We mill the groove.
The edge groove is ready.
Step 4.
Step 4. Trimming the ends of the piping (photo on the left), flush grinding (photo on the right).
Ready.
The adjacent end can be pasted over with an edge by capturing the edging(photo on the right).
Application of a garden pruner.
It is convenient to cut the PVC edging with a garden pruner, which has one persistent (not sharp) cutter, the second is a working, sharpened one. The abutment cutter is thick and rounded enough not to injure in the first place decorative surface edging, and secondly, it is good to repeat its semicircular shape. The working cutter has one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, this allows you to tightly press the cutter to the end of the chipboard and trim the edge flush in one motion, without subsequent sanding with sandpaper.
Small garden pruner for edging 16 mm. Choose a larger model for wider 32mm piping.
The persistent cutter is firmly pressed against the semicircular surface of the edging, the working blade is pressed with a finger to the end of the chipboard, and we trim.
High quality trimming in one motion. With a certain skill and a sharply sharpened blade, very narrow strips of edging can be cut with a pruner.
Applied piping.
Installation of an overhead edge does not require the use of an electric tool, the work is not dusty and can be done even at home, all you need is a knife and glue.It is necessary to prepare the inner surface of the edging, namely to apply deep multidirectional scratches in order to improve the adhesion of the glue. Any sharp object is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, a hacksaw blade, etc. After the surface is scratched, it is necessary to apply glue to the inner surface of the edging, for example, the well-proven "liquid nails". If there is a need for maximum protection against water penetration under the edging, then instead of glue, silicone sealant should be used, applying it in excess.After applying glue, the edging is sequentially put on the end of the part, leaving small allowances at the ends. Any glue that has escaped must be removed immediately. If necessary, paper (masking) tape will help to temporarily fix the edging (for example, near curved sections). After the glue has dried (for " liquid nails»- day), trim the edge allowances flush. The need to wait for the glue to dry is the main inconvenience of using an overhead edge, as compared to a cut-in edge.
Step 1. Scratching the inside of the edging.
Step 2. We apply glue "liquid nails".
Step 3. We put the edging on the edge of the chipboard, remove the squeezed out excess glue.
Ready. The chipboard end is trimmed with an applied PVC piping.
The ends are trimmed after the glue has dried.
Some subtleties of working with edgingPvc.
- Priority in the choice should be given to edging, in which the color of the base is as close as possible to the color of the decor - the outer coating. This will make possible small damages (scratches) of the edging invisible.
- The size of the edges of the edging is different. Preference should be given to an edging with a higher side height, this will allow you to close very large laminate chips.
- The stiffer the edging, the stronger it is, the better it withstands impacts. As a rule, more expensive edges have more stiffness.
- Edge stiffness depends on the room temperature. It is recommended to stuff the piping at room temperature. Work at low temperatures requires special attention behind the edge of the edging, it becomes stiff and can pick up (chip off) the edge of the laminate.
- Adhesives such as "Liquid nails" and some others are critical to storage and curing temperatures. The recommendations of the adhesive manufacturer must be strictly followed.
The ends of cabinet furniture trimmed with PVC edging acquire excellent operational, strength and decorative characteristics... Edging with sides, mounted using sealing compounds, is reliable and probably the cheapest decorative means protecting the ends of parts from water penetration, which avoids swelling of the chipboard.
After sawing chipboard or chipboard on the part, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed for the following reasons:
- to give an aesthetic look to the workpiece (details);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
- to protect the end surfaces of the workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
-Protect the end surfaces from moisture ingress into the slabs.
There are also edges that act as cushioning (SOFT edges) used for the manufacture of children's furniture.
Let us consider some methods of embedding the end surfaces of the chipboard and arrange them according to the rigidity of the end surface. The toughest surface will come first.
INSERT EDGE (PVC)
In the cutaways, we see several different edging.
To install them, you need a hand router
make a groove along the entire length of the end, the required width and depth.
The groove width is formed by the cutter,
after passing which, it should be 0.5 ... 0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the thorn. The depth of the groove can be 6 ... 10mm, depending on the length of the tenon.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. Let us grind (grind) the edges of the chipboard end face with fine-grain emery cloth.
2. We will select a milling cutter required thickness and diameter, set it in the center of the spike.
3. We mill the groove of the required size.
4. We glue PVA or "liquid nails", cover the outer surface of the thorn.
5. Gently fill the edging with a rubber hammer until it fits snugly against the end surface.
6. Cut off the ends on both sides and finally align with the end surfaces.
ONLINE edging
Overhead plastic profile does not require the use of an expensive tool. There is no noise and dust during operation.
We will use glue and a knife to install the profile.
1. Grind the end faces.
2. Lubricate the inner surface with liquid nail glue or silicone sealant.
3. Put the profile on the chipboard end.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant, wait until the glue is completely dry.
5. Cut the ends and align them with the end surfaces.
On curved sections, the profile must be fixed, pressed against the end surface. This can be done with masking tape.
FURNITURE EDGE
Paper or plastic tape, which is glued to the open end of the chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4 ... 5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher it is strength characteristics, therefore, the ends in hard-to-reach places are pasted over with a thin edge, and on the contrary, the ends in easily accessible places are pasted over with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the slab, plus a machining allowance of 2 ... 3 mm.
1. Let's check the uniformity of the glue application on the inner surface.
2. Press it to the end and heat it with a hair dryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light streaks form, they can be repaired. furniture wax, stain or potassium permanganate solution.
Material classification:
-melamine edge (paper strip impregnated with urea (melamine) resins and varnished);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (ABS) (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).
We know how to choose a material, construction fasteners, how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can proceed to self-production furniture that you yourself have invented and designed.
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