(Laminated chipboard) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is laminated chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when the part is cut. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make her out of different materials, accordingly, it has different properties and prices.
Edging paper or melamine
Most cheap option- edges made of melamine impregnated paper. The paper is taken with a higher density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued onto papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamine coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to cut the parts, an adhesive is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you only need to slightly warm this composition and press it well to the end.
Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing furniture ends.
Thickness of paper edging tapes small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no thicker sense to do, and it will be expensive.
This type of edge differs in that it bends very well, does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge wears out quickly. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.
PVC
Received in recent times widespread use of polyvinyl chloride is also used in the production of furniture edges. From the mass dyed in a certain color, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it's easy to find the right one.
PVC furniture edge is the most popular material which is used by both DIYers and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
PVC furniture edge is produced different thickness and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (not less than 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, is - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging has its drawbacks: not very wide temperature regime: from -5 ° C to + 45 ° C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.
Made of ABS (ABS) plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals and is highly durable and durable. The disadvantage can be considered high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edging can be matte, glossy, semi-glossy. There are also options that mimic various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.
Veneer edging
Veneer is a thin cut of wood, dyed and shaped like a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production for pasting veneer sections. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edging or 3D
Made from clear acrylic. A drawing is applied on the reverse side of the strip. The polymer layer on top gives it bulk, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.
Furniture edge profiles
You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically attached. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
A groove is milled for the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are trimmed at 45 ° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to an ideal state with fine sandpaper. This type of profile is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width, they are under laminated chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work with such material less.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They coat the edge with it, then put on a plastic profile, press it well and fix it. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are worse to bend and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.
If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile bend, it is heated with a construction hairdryer, then given the desired shape and fixed masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue the furniture edge with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edging tape. The first is for those who have glue on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a hair dryer. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edging well against the cut.
A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, generally do not need to be glued, but basically they try to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges of drawers are also processed (not facades).
It is better to use PVC 2 mm for the front ends of the facade and drawers, and PVC 1 mm for the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or "in contrast".
How to glue a piping with glue yourself
The adhesive is applied to the melamine edge, sometimes it is on PVC. If you have chosen PVC, it is easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine is glued simply.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a thick cotton cloth will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A construction hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We put the iron on about "two", while it heats up, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. Warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both with a sharp and a blunt side. Someone uses an ordinary metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.
So, take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if there is one. This guarantees a good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, preliminarily go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dust, degrease. Only then can you glue.
Edging with PVC tape (without glue on the back)
With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need a universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, we carry out all the actions according to the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply and distribute the composition to the surface, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To tightly press the edge against the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction float, and fasten felt on its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up the dense fabric in several layers and thus press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all weight, pressing it against chipboard surface... The movements are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue "seizes". Then you can start processing the edge.
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G ipsokarton is an indispensable material for the renovation of residential premises. It is used to install interior partitions, insulation of walls and ceilings, sealing of the underfloor base. When working with this material, there are often no problems, since it is elastic and easy to cut. However, during repairs, many do not take into account such a detail as an edge. Due to ignorance of the nuances while working with this material, people often have a question: "Is it necessary to cut the edge of the drywall?" So, if it is not cut beforehand before installation, then soon after the repair, the walls will be covered with cracks and begin to deform. Let's look at where drywall is used, why cut it and how to carry out the procedure.
What does a drywall edge look like?
As a consequence unique characteristics this material is irreplaceable in a number of repair and construction works. So, drywall sheets are used for the following manipulations:
- Installation of interior partitions;
- Alignment of ceilings, walls;
- House insulation;
- The second technology for cutting drywall is performed using assembly knife... Mark the line that you will cut on the sheet, lay the material on a flat, horizontal surface. If you are performing the procedure on a table, the notch line should extend beyond the table top so that it is not damaged. After positioning the sheet, cut the sheet along the line that you drew previously. To permanently tear the cut pieces of drywall apart from each other, carefully take one side along the fracture line and tap on it. To make the edge look neat, it should be finished with an electric plane after trimming.
Anyone who has ever encountered chipboard knows that a board made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a mixture of wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a marketable appearance, a process such as edging chipboard was invented. It is the gluing on the ends of parts of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or differ from it.
Today, two main types of edges are used:
- PVC edge
- melamine edging
PVC edge it is used in the factory production of furniture, it is more reliable, strong, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. In furniture workshops, special edging machines are used. The thickness of the PVC edge is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also fluctuates depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.
Melamine edging it is less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and it is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to its low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I mainly glue melamine edging on drawers... Hot melt glue is always applied on the reverse side of the melamine edge, and it itself has sufficient resistance to high temperatures, therefore, it is enough to glue it simple iron... It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never seen wider than 20 mm.
Since our site is dedicated to to a greater extent work at home, for a start, let's figure out how.
So, for work we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vise (optional), small sandpaper on a bar.
The very technique of edgebanding is as simple as a nail:
Now let's figure out how to glue correctly PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine... This edge will last much longer than melamine edge, besides 2 mm and will look "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, the edging takes place with the help of a building hair dryer, and in the second case, it is necessary to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, since it is more cost effective.
Let's start with gluing 0.4 mm PVC edges. It is best to use contact glue for fixing it, for example 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions on the package.
Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. This will require glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.
For work, we need a roller for pressing the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with fine sandpaper ...
This describes the process of pasting the ends of the chipboard with a regular paper edge using an ordinary iron.
For pasting, an ordinary Soviet-made iron with a temperature controller is most suitable.
In most cases and for most edges, the optimal temperature regime is set almost to the third division.
On short parts up to 40 cm long, the whole length at once.
On long sections of 40-45 cm.
An indicator of a well-heated edge is the sagging of the edge under the iron. the adhesive layer is melted.
An insufficiently heated edge will poorly adhere to the end and subsequently, if not immediately, will begin to break off.
However, overheating of the edge is also not desirable. since the glue will simply fade and the edge will not stick.
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Immediately after we have warmed up the edge section, smooth it to the end with a cloth (felt, etc.). The edge cools down quickly enough, so it is not worth ironing for a particularly long time. Lutshe immediately go to another section of it, thereby avoiding the trail of the transition. For the same reasons, when warming up the edge of the iron along the edge, we "carry" without holding it in one place for too long. That is, we simply perform the same actions as when ironing clothes. The principle is the same. |
Now we move on to trimming excess edges. First, we cut at the ends.
Then along the plane.
We hold the knife as shown in the photo. It is advisable to direct the cutting movements towards the part, and not outward. Because not all edges are of the same level of moisture and quality, therefore, on drier edges, when the knife moves "outward", ugly seizures of the face layer can form, which will be difficult to remove even by subsequent grouting with sandpaper.
Also, with the help of an iron, you can remove the previously glued edge.
1.heat the edge section, pry it off and separate it from the part ...
Everyone knows a fact that often occurs during edgebanding - this is the melting of the PVC edge, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.
There is the problem of wavy formation on the 2 mm thick edges after scraping, edge delamination from the part, 0.4 mm roughness of the edges, whiteness of the edges and many more problems.
It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case deeper than to blame everything on the quality of the edges.
So, first you should consider edgebanding process, namely, the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, it comes on the use of exclusively PVC edges.
The process consists of several stages:
Gluing
Facing
Overhang milling
Cycling
Polishing
Bonding PVC edges.
Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is performed using glue - hot melt.
The likelihood of a marriage at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:
Make the most suitable settings by trial and experiment
Choose a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature
Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (moisture, looseness)
The edge melts when glued.
If you also use a feed rate of 2 - 5 m / min, you should apply an edge that is more heat-resistant, and it must be borne in mind that permissible temperatures Suppliers' declared edgebands are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. Recommend to change working temperature glue bath.
After gluing the edges of 0.4 mm, the surface tuberosity appears:
A very common problem that is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the wrong selection of glue - hot melt.
The fact is that the density of chipboard strongly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right glue - melt. Bumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of particle board with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.
The problem can be corrected by applying the filled adhesive at an increased consumption. In this case, not only tuberosity will disappear, but also the strength of the gluing of surfaces will increase.
When gluing, it forms uneven surface due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:
This problem can be easily solved. Just slide out the extra pinch rollers.
Too noticeable seam between the edge and the end face of the part.
When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use unfilled melt glue, then the seam will be as thin and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the glue seam of the edge and chipboard.
The edge is melted on curved parts.
This problem is also worth looking at in terms of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.
So, for example, for machine tools manual type When the part moves around the stationary adhesive, it is recommended to use hot melts with a wide temperature range.
For equipment with automatic feeding when the workpiece moves around the glue unit with constant speed 10 - 30 m / min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edging tape.
Overhang milling, scraping.
After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.
This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) are dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.
Increase the rotational speed of the cutter and decrease the feed rate of the edge. The same can happen when scraping: a "wave" on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.
Chips have formed at the edges of the edge.
Chips on the PVC edge after milling do not indicate that the edge material is very hard or that the chalk content is very high.
They may indicate that the rotational speed of the cutter is not set correctly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both at the same time.
Polishing.
In order for the edge of the edge to be well polished, to remove all the remnants of chips, glue, etc., we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel, applying a separating liquid to the surface of the chipboard.
Conclusion:
Based on the above, we recommend that you do not immediately write off a bad edgebanding when changing a supplier.
In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use in several modes / machines, check if the temperature and feed rate are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.
Of course, the quality of the edges primarily affects the wrapping process, based on many years of experience in the supply of edgebands, we recommend that you base your choice of materials not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.
So, in order not to spoil the product / part at the edge banding stage, it is necessary:
Choose a reliable partner for edgebanding supplies
Pay attention to how long the importer is on the market
How many suppliers / factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).
We offer to solve your problems at the edge banding stage.
You will be able, without reconfiguring the equipment, to use the "LUX" edge, save without loss in quality, using the "STANDARD" PVC edge. ().
We are happy to solve all arising problems, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program / in production, we accept the return in full.
We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edging materials, but a reliable partner who seeks to help develop your business.