Secrets of using PVC edges at the edge banding stage. Furniture edges: types, photos

Anyone who has ever encountered chipboard knows that a board made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a mixture of wood chips with glue. In order to give the parts sawn from such a plate a marketable appearance, a process such as edging chipboard was invented. It is the gluing on the ends of parts of a decorative strip - "edge", which can be either in color with the chipboard decor or differ from it.

Today, two main types of edges are used:

PVC edge
melamine edging

PVC edge it is used in the factory production of furniture, it is more reliable, strong, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite laborious. In furniture workshops, special edging machines are used. Thickness PVC edges there are 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also fluctuates depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.

Melamine edging it is less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to stick and it is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to its low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I mainly glue melamine edging to drawers. Hot melt glue is always applied on the reverse side of the melamine edge, and it itself has sufficient resistance to high temperatures, therefore, it is enough to glue it simple iron... It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never seen wider than 20 mm.

Since our site is dedicated to to a greater extent work at home, for a start, let's figure out how.

So, for work we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vice (optional), fine sandpaper on a bar.

The very technique of edgebanding is as simple as a nail:

Now let's figure out how to glue correctly PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine... This edge will last much longer than melamine edge, besides 2 mm and will look "richer". It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be either already with an adhesive layer (hot melt adhesive) or without it. In the first case, the edging takes place with the help of a building hair dryer, and in the second case, it is necessary to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, since it is more cost effective.

Let's start with gluing 0.4 mm PVC edges. It is best to use contact glue for fixing it, for example 3M ™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or "88". It should be noted that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions on the package.

Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. This will require glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.

For work, we need a roller for pressing the edge (it can be successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a planer to remove excess edges, a sanding block with fine sandpaper ...

The edge in the furniture industry is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapors.

You will learn about the types of edges, as well as the methods of gluing them and how to glue the edge with an iron and a hairdryer from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

The most common type is melamine edging with glue on paper backing ... It is used for finishing the interior of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the most quality option... Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into the slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. You will need a milling machine for installation.
PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of the furniture from damage, is durable, resistant to moisture. To glue the PVC piping, you will need an edging machine, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
ABS plastic is an eco-friendly chlorine-free option. Prized for its resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.

Average cost of a profile for one running meter:

PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, products from by Rehau which offers big choice color solutions, and different width tapes from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that calculate how much materials are required for gluing the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue step by step at home

For work you will need:

iron or hair dryer,
and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
hard roller,
newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the glue sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.

The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
Next, the iron is again heated through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it adheres along its entire length.

Bonding with a hot air gun... Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the glue side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end the desired area, pinch and gently smooth.
Bonding with Moment glue... This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the end is checked manually, sawdust, debris, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the section is rolled so that the glue sets faster.

VIDEO

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the site and the profile is clamped using a roller or manually.

Since usually the width of PVC edges is taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess at the edges. To do this, use an ordinary clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge is left that coincides in width with the section.

Completion of work

After everything is stuck, it remains to process the irregularities sandpaper.

How to glue an edge on a chipboard - description

Melamine edging is the best option for home use when refurbishment needs to be done old furniture with minimal cost... If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high quality material.

Consider how to glue the edge on a chipboard worktop at home.

EXCELLENT VIDEO ON THE TOPIC

For work, you will need the following materials:

skin,
sharpened jamb knife,
wallpaper roller,
melamine edging,
construction hair dryer or iron.

Algorithm of actions:

select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensure proper melting of the glue,
sand the edges of the chipboard for gluing, eliminate irregularities,
measure the profile,
heat it up with an iron and press it tightly against the area with a roller (if there is no glue layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to trim at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it will remain to process the edges with a sandpaper so that there are no burrs and irregularities left.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, a stain will help to correct the difference.

In the case when the part has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by a complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.

Types of edge glue

What glue to choose for the edge

Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edgebanding... They are convenient in the event that the production will be put on stream, and it is required both high quality result and fast speed.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means they become very elastic when heated and harden quickly when cooled. Responsible for these properties is the ethylene-vinyl acetate polymer included in the adhesive. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or manual guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

V living conditions often use PVC glue, which adheres well paper materials to different surfaces... Homogeneous without lumps light color the mass adheres well to surfaces, but is afraid of moisture. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for use by non-professional craftsmen.
Fit universal adhesives Moment and 88-Lux, which will reliably glue the material to the chipboard and PVC surfaces. After 3-4 hours, the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe, and affordable.
Among the professional furniture glue for edging, it is worth noting the products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot-melt adhesives for cladding, for soft-forming material (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

Often, due to errors in the design of furniture or for other reasons, it is necessary to glue the edge on the chipboard. It is practically impossible to glue a traditional plastic edging at home, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves, since there are enough colors. Let's take a look at how melamine edging is applied and what it is all about.

Without going into details of what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which the adhesive is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so just glue it will not work. At the same time, thanks to thermal glue, it adheres well to chipboard.

Fig. 1.

Before proceeding to the description of the process of gluing melamine edging, a few words about necessary tool and preparation of the chipboard end face. For melamine edging, you need a construction hairdryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.

Fig. 2.

The end face of the chipboard must be clean and even, free of sawdust and loose parts. Otherwise, the edge will not stick to the chipboard, but it will be bad to stick to them. The best end is obtained after milling or sawing on a machine. Further, the photo will show the butt of poor quality, it's just that nothing better was at hand anymore.

Fig. 3.

The melamine edgebanding begins by cutting off the main strip of the desired length or slightly longer than required. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. This can be done with ordinary scissors.

Next, an edge is applied to the end of the chipboard. It should be said that the melamine edging is produced in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than the chipboard plate. Therefore, at this stage, it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.

Fig. 4.

Pay attention, on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future, it must be cut off.

Fig. 5.

Next, a hairdryer comes into play. A temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient for gluing melamine edging. A hairdryer heats up the edge, thereby melting the glue. A characteristic sign indicating that the glue has melted is the moment when the edge loses its curved shape, after being in the roll, and becomes straight. Further, she simply presses herself against the end of the chipboard with her hands. It is necessary to do this with gloves, because the edge is hot.

There are several features that should be mentioned.

Apply the edging in a warm room., this will allow the glue to harden more slowly. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the position.

The melamine edge should not be warmed up along the entire length, but 20-30 cm... It is easier to work this way, and the glue does not have time to harden until the edge is pressed against the chipboard end. So, on average, a 60 cm long end is glued in 3 approaches. The first one - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.

Do not forget that the air temperature from the hair dryer is about 250 degrees, so you need to work carefully and do not point the hair dryer at hands or other objects.

Fig. 6.

On the Internet, there are many options for how to glue the edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheating, the glue flows out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways... It is also not advisable, because at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down until the glue hardens in a few seconds, and, in my opinion, it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.

The last step is trimming the melamine edging.

Fig. 7.

In this case, I cut it with the usual kitchen knife, it was just that there was nothing more at hand. The result is not the best. A sharp knife with a thick blade, like a boot knife, gives a good result. The knife should be positioned at an angle to the edge of the order of 30-45 degrees from the bottom. The best result is obtained with a special melamine edging tool, but I personally have not been able to get one.

In conclusion, I will say one more interesting feature... As you can see in the photo, the edge cut is white, which does not look very good against the cherry-colored background. This can be eliminated by using wood stain on water based... You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, remove the excess. For example, a mahogany stain is well suited for cherry-colored chipboard.

Chipboard - the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high quality inexpensive furniture... In order to hide the not too aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed from the end side - the installation of special decorative panels melamine, PVC or others available species synthetic plastics.

Why else are they edging furniture?

In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several more equally important tasks:

Where to trim

Furniture manufacturers often trim only visible parts of end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this looks quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can turn into certain problems - a protective edge should be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of chipboard.

If you have purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can do their own edging at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with an ordinary iron.

Do not be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will analyze in detail how to glue correctly edging tape do it yourself.

Edging materials

Edging of exposed furniture surfaces can be done with various decorative elements that differ in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.

How to glue the edge with an iron

Edging in production is done with a tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation when high temperature, ensuring the formation of a thin even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove the remnants of glue and base material and grind the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.

You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with already applied adhesive composition... Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in the same way:

You can find out more about the process of gluing the edge on chipboard in the video below:

It is somewhat easier to glue the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard. We have already discussed this method earlier. Such an edge is much stronger than melamine, it bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.

The presence of micro-gaps between the edge of the U-profile and the front chipboard surface does not allow it to be glued in the kitchen or bathroom, therefore, it is mainly used for edging with this material for office furniture.

Chipboard edging, of course, is best done in the factory. In production, you can order a tape from any material, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Machine edging for perfect evenness and precision decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to keep within a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine the acceptable quality and the minimum price.

We glue the edge on the chipboard

For a 0.4 mm edge, a knife or ruler is sufficient (similar to melamine). For a 2 mm edge, an edge router is required.

Curly () cutter, walking along the edge with a bearing, cuts off its protruding part.

The result is a slightly rough cut that needs to be polished.

To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the edge with a piece of felt. Warming up, it evens out roughness.

As a result, such an even edge turns out to be no worse than on professional equipment.

Although more expensive and longer. The technique, of course, is handicraft, but it has the right to life.

Posted in: Practical part.
Tagged: chipboard end

Decoration, processing, sealing of chipboard edges. Edging, edge, butt, finishing. Close up, arrange, process, finish

How to beautifully seal the edge of the chipboard? Finishing the end face of a polished board, processing a laminated edge. Chipboard edgebanding techniques. (10+)

Chipboard end decoration

Chipboard edging is necessary in the manufacture of furniture. We bring to your attention materials for making furniture with your own hands.

Chipboard edge structure

Chipboard consists of sawdust mixed with glue and compressed. Moreover, the process of pressing and drying the glue is organized in such a way as to obtain dense surfaces and a rather rotten middle. This is done so that the chipboard is springy and does not break. If the entire array of a sheet is made dense, then the sheet will be pricked from a very slight deformation.

We usually do not contact the internal structure chipboard sheet... It is fenced off from us by dense surfaces and a laminated coating (if the chipboard is laminated). But the butt reveals this charm to us. Our goal is to close it from the eyes of those who will admire our product.

In addition to aesthetic, there are several more reasons why it is necessary to close the chipboard end, even in places that are inaccessible to the eye. Moisture. Particleboard is very sensitive to moisture, even to a small amount of moisture absorbed from the air. The surfaces of laminated chipboard do not allow moisture to pass through, the surface of polished chipboard is usually painted and also does not allow moisture to pass through. The edge should also be moisture-proof. Mushrooms. Microorganisms and insects that decompose wood can penetrate through the end of the slab. Harmful substances. The harmful substances contained in the glue and the sawdust themselves, from which the chipboard is made, do not penetrate the laminated or painted surface, but enter the room through the end.

Edging options, chipboard edge decoration

The options for processing the end (edging) depend, first of all, on how the sheet itself will be finished. If the sheet is laminated, and it is planned to use its laminated surface cleanly, that is, not to paint or cover with anything, then on the visible edges it is necessary to stick an edge tape corresponding in appearance laminated surface, and the hidden edges are filled and sealed with a construction bandage. If the sheet is laminated or sanded, and it is planned to paint it, then the sheet itself must be primed, its edges must be puttied, sealed with a construction bandage going into the plane of the sheet, the bandage must be putty and painted.

End face of laminated chipboard

Visible end

When cutting such a chipboard, you need to be very careful, use a sawing tool that leaves an even edge. Laminating chipboard when cutting is very fond of crumbling and chipping. If this happens, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. I don't know how to beautifully fix such a chip. We'll either have to put up with it, or saw off a new workpiece. Next, I recommend filling the edge. Many people glue the edging tape immediately to the sawn edge, but I tried this and refused it. The tape does not adhere well to such a surface. I putty the edge with acrylic universal filler. After drying, skin with medium grain sandpaper. I do this very carefully so as not to chip the laminate with chipboard. Then I stick the tape on the leveled surface.

I will dwell on the types of ribbons - edges. Usually it is paper (in the generalized sense of the word 'paper') tape and plastic. The paper tape is sold with hot melt adhesive already applied. It is glued with an iron. I will not dwell on this process in detail, there are enough materials on this topic on the Internet. You need to pay attention to the quality of the tape and glue. If the tape subsequently lags behind, then it can be glued with ordinary glue, this will not be noticeable. The plastic tape is glued with glue. The adhesive may already have been applied to plastic tape and covered with paper protective strip... it bad case... Such glue adheres very poorly. Do not buy plastic edging with adhesive already applied.

What kind of glue to glue? It is better to use the adhesive recommended by the edgebanding manufacturer. But, note, it is worth making sure that there is a solvent for this glue that allows you to remove excess glue and not damage the plastic border and the coating of the chipboard sheet itself. Then it will be convenient for you.

How to glue the edge on chipboard and PVC

According to the instructions for the glue, you will glue the edge, and remove the protruding glue with a swab moistened with the specified solvent. Difficulties can arise if the adhesive dissolves only with those solvents that dissolve the plastic. It is impossible to remove excess glue with such a solvent, such glue is not suitable for us.

Decoration of the invisible end

We put it on. Skin with medium grain size. Carefully so as not to chip, as in the previous case. In principle, we can stop at this. but better with glue PVA glue a strip of construction bandage to the filled end face. It (bandage) will prevent the putty from splitting and spilling. Usually the bandage is slightly wider than the edge. We glue the bandage so that the edge is in the middle of it. When the glue is dry sharp knife, carefully, so as not to damage the laminated chipboard, remove the excess bandage.

Chipboard end for painting

In this case, the cut can be carried out without much fear, since chips and defects can be easily corrected with a putty. If we work with laminated chipboard, but still we want to paint it, then we apply a primer to the whole product. Soil GF-021 or Otex from Tikkurila is suitable. If polished chipboard is used, then priming is not necessary, although it is desirable. We putty the butt. I use a fine filler acrylic filler. Skins. We should get a smooth rectangular edge. Sometimes this requires several iterations of sanding - putty. When the edge suits us, it needs to be fixed, otherwise it will break off or crack. Putty - the material is not very durable and reliable. We glue the edge with a construction bandage 4 - 5 cm wider than the butt end. We use PVA glue. We bend the bandage so that it sticks to the end of the chipboard and goes onto the upper and lower planes. See picture. After the glue has dried, we putty the building bandage with a fine acrylic putty... Usually one putty is used for all these jobs. We especially pay attention to the strip where the bandage ends and the chipboard itself begins. Here it is necessary to putty especially carefully so that after sanding and painting the transition is absolutely not noticeable. We dry the putty, skin with fine sandpaper, paint.

Despite the monstrous view on the diagram on an enlarged scale, in reality, the presence of a bandage and putty on the end of the chipboard, if everything is done correctly, is completely invisible.

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PVC furniture edge

Furniture PVC edge - a narrow strip of polyvinyl chloride, which is used for pasting laminated chipboard ends. It not only protects chipboard from damage, but is also a decorative element.

Melamine edging is also widely used in furniture production. But since it is made from paper impregnated with saline solution, it has a number of disadvantages. Among them are small thickness, fragility and susceptibility to mechanical damage. That is why many furniture and home furnishing manufacturers prefer PVC tape.

PVC edgebanding has the following advantages:

high level of strength;
reliable protection against chips, moisture, which allows you to increase the service life of products;
high resistance to chemical compositions, ultraviolet radiation, ignition;
relatively low cost.

The PVC edge is a narrow tape made of PVC. Edging tape is an elegant addition to laminated chipboard furniture structures. It protects products from physical, chemical and biological damage, while adding elegance to furniture, whether it be a tabletop, a cabinet or any other product. It is enough to paste over the ends of the furniture to make it look finished. PVC edgeband can work wonders even with ordinary furniture, endowing it with notes of sophistication and sophistication. There is a huge variety of colors, shades, decor and textures, so you can use this decorative element to any furniture. In addition, the edging material will add furniture performance characteristics protecting furniture from moisture and reducing resin evaporation.

Furniture edge is an easy-to-use and very practical decorative element that facilitates the use of laminated chipboard furniture.

High quality edging tape gives furniture products durability, reliability and strength. The tape is easy to clean as it is moisture resistant. The PVC Facing Edge is additionally coated with acrylic resin so that it is not exposed to any stress.

Several types of tapes are used in the production of furniture and components on an industrial scale, including ABS, adhesive-based edging tape and PVC. If it comes about exclusive designer furniture or furniture of the "Premium" class, then they use original edging materials, including aluminum edging, high gloss, 3D edging, etc.

One of the best edging tapes is rightfully considered PVC products made in China. This edging material is distinguished by its special aesthetics and functionality, as well as a long service life.

China PVC edgebands are produced according to recent advances and according to all sanitary and hygienic standards. Furniture edge China is considered the best option for furniture made of chipboard and decoration of an office or home.

Our company offers a wide range of edging PVC different textures and colors. Based on your choice, we will offer you the glue that most reliably attaches the edging material to the furniture. Of course, the issue of the accuracy of furniture decoration will directly depend on the quality of the equipment and the qualifications of the staff. If you want to choose a unique stone surface or a classic wood texture, we will help you choose the required edge banding option.

Pasting with a plastic edge on the ends of a chipboard.

You just have to specify the texture, decor and color of the material, in accordance with your taste preferences. You can literally transform the furniture in your home with the edge banding tape. The products, like the technology of their production, meet the highest standards of quality, safety and environmental friendliness.

We offer you PVC edgebanding wide range at an attractive cost.

Having pasted the edge of the chipboard with melamine edge, do not doubt that the processed surface will look worse than pasting the edge on a low-quality machine - if you glue the edge correctly, in accordance with the algorithm, the result is brilliant.

What is the edge glued to?

To parts in contact with the floor.
Elements that will be subjected to mechanical stress in the future.
To internal parts such as parts drawers chest of drawers or bedside tables, laminated plates.

What you need for edgebanding

Iron.
Cutter knife or stationery knife, necessary thing, can be used both when collecting furniture and when assembling various elements, for example a mosquito net.
A piece of felt or a damp piece of cloth - a cloth.
Sandpaper, or even better - a bar covered with sandpaper, will be more convenient to work with.
Parts holder or vise.
The edge itself.

How is the preparation for pasting the edge

So that the final result of your work looks impeccable and looks quite aesthetically pleasing when gluing the edge, a good iron should be used, preferably Teflon as the basis of the surface. Make sure that the ironing surface of the iron is clean - if there is any dirt, it must be removed. If you picked up this tool you can start pasting for the example of the shelves of the wardrobe.

For the most convenient work, do not use ordinary knives, a cutter is ideal. If you do not have such a knife, then you need to find an old knife blade and construct a cutter from it yourself.

You can make a block yourself - you need to take even an ordinary piece of chipboard and paste over it with sandpaper on one side.

A melamine edging with an already prepared layer of glue on it is for sale, but if you are "lucky" to purchase an edging without adhesive coating, you must independently apply glue to it.

The holder can also be easily constructed independently from the remnants of chipboard, for this you need to take two small pieces of material and stuff them at a short distance from each other perpendicular to the base.

The process of pasting the edgebanding is carried out in stages.

After unwinding the coil, attach it to the end of the part, leaving a little edge for trimming.
How to glue PVC edge on chipboard at home

In the standard, the width of the edge is 2.1 cm, and the chipboard, as a rule, has a width of 1.6-1.8 cm, so there will also be a margin for trimming and rubbing the edges. In order not to do unnecessary work and not to cut the edge lengthwise from two edges, it is better to align it on one side, and then cut off the excess only on the other side.
After attaching the edge to the front, start heating and ironing it with an iron. Special attention it is worth paying to the edges of the ends - there it is necessary to iron it most carefully.
Details of small length are ironed entirely and immediately, while longer sections should be heated and ironed in parts - in sections of 40 centimeters. The end is cooled with felt or a damp cloth.
Based on the quality of the tape used, the heating temperature of the iron is selected and regulated. If everything is set correctly, then the iron glides directly over the surface, does not cling to anything or scratch the edge. If the heating is correct, then the adhesive under the edge will spread evenly. And if you overdo it too much and overheat the edge, then bubbles will go and the edge will have to be removed and thrown away.
If you nevertheless spoil some area, then in order to remove the spoiled material, you need to heat it up again and remove it with a knife. After cleaning the surface, you can start gluing again.
If the edge is of high quality, then it will stick only after it has completely cooled down. Having found that the edge has completely cooled down, you can start trimming the excess. You can cut correctly by bending the edge, rubbing it with a bar until the chamfer is visible. white... Having seen the backing, you can already cut off unnecessary material.
After trimming, all edges are carefully and thoroughly rubbed with a bar with sandpaper. At this stage, the gluing of the melamine edgebanding is finished. And you can safely start installing the handles.

Today I tried again to glue a 0.4 mm PVC edge with an iron. My previous attempts have failed (the edge melted before the glue, wrinkled even at the lowest heat levels. In general, nothing worked). Based on these experiments, I concluded that this is not possible at all. I confess I was wrong - thanks to the guys - they convinced me. He picked up another iron - a newer one and again took up experiments.

Since I don't have a glue-applicator, I decided to use the technique of applying glue from the melamine edge directly to the workpiece, which I also read about somewhere in the vastness of the cobweb. For work, I needed an iron (more precisely two - see below), a sanding block (best of all, not with an abrasive, but with felt - it will also flash in the following photos), a melamine edge - any color, a PVC edge (which we will glue) and a metal ruler Or such a square I will give both types of edges in a larger manner (the photo shows that PVC is without glue, while melamine has a hot-melt layer applied).

To begin with, we fix the workpiece on a workbench, preferably vertically.

Then we apply a piece of melamine edge to it and smooth it with a hot iron (set the heating control to the second position).

Having ironed it in one direction, we begin the movement of the iron in the other, tearing off the edge until the glue has cooled down.

We can see that the glue remains on the workpiece.

Another photo, more descriptive. It can be seen that there is almost no glue left on the melamine tape, while it is present on the blank.

Now we cut off a piece PVC tapes the desired length (with a small traditional margin)

At first I tried to glue it again with my old iron (letting it cool beforehand), the result is deplorable. The hem immediately shriveled.

Then I took up the next generation iron (which I squeezed out of my mother-in-law) and set it to the very minimum.

He moved the edging tape to the right so that the deformed piece did not lie on the surface to be treated and began to smooth it with an iron. The case is progressing more slowly than with.

Warming up in one direction, we begin to move with the iron in the return line, smoothing the edging tape after it with the palm of your hand.

Excess from the ends lends itself well to simple scissors.

The cut is perfectly flat and does not require additional finishing. (but if necessary, you can shuffle it a couple of times with a block of fine abrasive).

To trim the overhangs on the edges, it is advisable to put the part horizontally .. Personally, this is much more convenient for me. They, as in the case of melamine, lend themselves well to the metal ruler, led at an angle shown in the photo.

The cut is a little rough. It should be polished.
This is done with a felt bar, with which we make several movements along the edge at an angle.

Turning the workpiece over, I found a non-adhesive zone. Not pleasant, but not fatal.

We again grab the iron and press the unplugged area for 20-30 seconds.
Then we change the iron to a felt block, with which we also press it until the glue cools.

The result is such a PVC-sealed butt end.
This technique is quite suitable for large parts especially when the melamine edging is not suitable and the edging is not available for some reason. But in time, it is quite costly.