With the help of bleaching, you can not only soften the natural tone of the wood, but also remove unwanted stains. There are several ways to do this.
Tools and materials:
- bleaching powder
- crystalline soda
- caustic soda
- perhydrol (30% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution)
Attention! This work should be done with gloves.
Process:
Choosing a bleaching method and preparing a special solution.
1. Mix 8 parts of bleach with 1 part of salt, and then add 35 parts of water to it. We mix. Let the solution brew. We process wood.
2. Make a sodium hydroxide solution by mixing 48 g of this chemical with 100 g of water. We apply a solution of sodium hydroxide to the surface of the tree. We dry it.
3. We process the tree with perhydrol. We dry it. If the whitening seemed insufficient, we repeat the procedure. To neutralize this area, rinse it with 4% acetic acid solution. We dry it.
4. Add hydrogen peroxide to a 15% aqueous solution ammonia- in such quantity that the composition has a strong smell of ammonia. We moisten the wood with this solution and leave it for several days. In this case, the tree will become completely white.
How to bleach wood? Wood bleach (video):
The paint can not always cover the uneven color of the wood.
Even healthy wood can have multi-colored spots - this is a sign of an uneven distribution of natural pigment. And what about wood that has been stored for years and darkened under the influence of air. Sometimes it is necessary to bleach wood in order to give it a perfect White color... Bleaching is carried out immediately before dyeing the wood.
Whitening agents include hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid, bleach and titanium peroxide, and compared to others, hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid and all-purpose fabric bleach are the most effective and affordable.
Each solution is prepared at the rate of 50 ml per 1 m2 of surface. But they all must have a certain consistency.
A 10-12% solution of hydrogen peroxide is suitable for bleaching wood. It is not necessary to increase the proportion of overhydrol - this can destroy the upper layers of the wood. It is better to add ammonia in the proportion: for 10 parts of the solution 1 part of alcohol. In order for the surface to evenly discolor, apply the solution to the wood 3-4 times with a cotton swab or a regular brush every 10-15 minutes. The effect will not be noticeable immediately, but only after a day or two. After the wood acquires the desired color, the solution is washed off with warm water.
Oxalic acid is more toxic than hydrogen peroxide, so it is used only in the form of an aqueous 5-10% solution. The oxalic acid bleaching process includes several stages. First, a 10% solution of oxalic acid and a 20% solution of sodium hydrosulfite are prepared. The surface is treated with a salt solution, after which oxalic acid is immediately applied, mixing the two components on the surface. After no more than 5 minutes, the solutions are removed by rinsing the product with warm water.
Oak is practically not amenable to bleaching with hydrogen peroxide. With prolonged exposure to this substance, its wood only acquires a greenish tint. This reagent is effectively used for bleaching such breeds as Walnut, birch and beech. Before applying a 30% solution of hydrogen peroxide, the veneer or solid wood is moistened with warm water, slightly dried and treated with a 10% solution of ammonia. A mixture of 20% solutions of hydrogen peroxide and a miak in a ratio of 1:10 is recommended for bleaching ash and birch.
Light wood species - linden, birch, maple, poplar - are bleached with a solution of oxalic acid (1.5-6 ml per 100 ml of boiled water). To neutralize the acid remaining on the product, the following composition is used: 15 g of bleach, 3 g soda ash, 100 ml of water. First in hot water dissolve the soda, and after the resulting solution has cooled, bleach is added to it. Treatment with this composition contributes not only to bleaching the wood, but also to raising the pile.
After applying all the solutions, the part is thoroughly washed with water and dried.
Oxalic acid is used to bleach oak veneer, less often a 5% solution of citric or acetic acid. Accelerated bleaching can be done with an aqueous solution that contains 2% sulfuric acid, 1.5% oxalic acid and 2.5% sodium peroxide.
Sometimes, when bleaching, the wood of some species takes on rather unexpected shades. So, walnut, which has a contrasting texture, becomes grayish-blue or pink, and oak - greenish.
I am deeply saddened to inform you that you have arrived at a page with a blue one. And this blue must be urgently removed from the timber of your log house - how to whiten logs! Unfortunately, our warm, beautiful, natural wood(more precisely, wood) is subject to decay and can deteriorate under the influence of fungi and mold. Blueness on a bar or log, on boards or lining is the result of improper storage or preservation of wood products.
Aside from the topic of direct bleaching of wood, let me remind you that this business must be stopped at all stages of processing the wooden parts of a house made of wood. Immediately after the preparation of the trunks (transport preservation), during storage (temporary preservation) and after the manufacture of crowns or the installation of walls (antiseptic treatment and finishing painting)
How to bleach wood, depends on what kind of defeat the details of the log house received. Usually, blue is thrown over fresh, wet wood even before the stage finishing details. It is during storage with poor ventilation that the fungus begins to spread as quickly as possible. They can only help.
Causes of blue wooden products :
Conclusion: in order not to bleach the wood of the wooden parts of a bathhouse or a house in the future, it is necessary to apply construction chemicals at every stage of construction.
Bleach for wood
In the old days, so as not to bleach the wood, they sometimes added salt! This delayed the appearance of a fungal infection for some time.
One of the oldest ways to bleach wood with household chemicals- the use of products for bleaching linen. Alas, there is no difference - where this mold settles, so the methods of struggle are the same. "Whiteness" is a housewife's remedy. But she can save on initial stage defeat of the upper layers of a board or log. If the blue begins to turn into black, then one pass of the brush cannot be dispensed with here.
For more effective bleaching of wood, it is necessary to prepare it for this process, namely: to make the smooth surface loose, so that the agent for destroying mold and fungi gets as deep as possible. Therefore, many masters recommend using Sagus before bleaching. Chlorine wood bleach « Sagus ", according to the manufacturer's assurances, cope with any lightening and restore natural color... But where is the line that separates the natural color of the tree from the dead whiteness ?! To be precise, chemical bleaches don't really remove color from wood. As a result of the reaction with the chemicals that make up the blue stain, the bleach forms another substance, the color of which is no longer blue or black. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that there are no parts of any kind on the surface. protective coatings in the form of paints, varnishes, emulsions, fats, etc. Translucent azure “translates” the blue well even through itself. Therefore, it is impossible to simply cover a blackened log with paint: 1) it will still be visible through the varnish, 2) it is fraught with deep damage to the log house or timber.
Some "kulibins" recommend such a brutal way how to whiten a log and get the original appearance of the tree - treat the surface hypochlorite. They argue that all other drugs of modern chemistry contain this substance. Personally, I don't like such methods - they can lead to the fact that the wood can get a chemical burn and lose its aesthetic properties... In concentrates created in factories, stabilizers are added to prevent the destructive effects of chemical compounds. Limit the depth of their penetration and stop activity after a certain time of exposure.
I would not discount and such complex method bleaching a log or bar as a grinding, which removes the damaged layer deep enough. But this method is the most expensive, it does not guarantee cleaning from mildew and mold in the corners, where grinding wheel won't be able to get there. recommended for very deep lesions of wood, when chemically it is not possible to remove all foci of blackening and blue discoloration
Factory-bottled wood bleaches - they know how to bleach the timber of your log house.
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"White" |
Detergent for laundry Folk remedy when nothing is at hand |
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"Sagus" ( LLC "Sagus") |
Bleach for wood |
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No comments. Folk remedy Test before use! |
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Wood regenerator. it is necessary to dilute the drug with water in a ratio of 1: 1 |
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Bleach TM "Neomid" After application, a plaque remains in the form of salt crystals, which must be washed off with water |
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BioShield |
Means of protection of wood from decay and in combination - Bleach |
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Senezh EFFO or Senezh NEO |
For fast deep or superficial lightening of wood surfaces darkened by fungal stains |
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Concentrate for the production of water-based whitening compounds |
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WoodMaster Hoarfrost |
Whitening and protective compound. Whitening and protective composition for wood. Removes blue stain, rot, mold |
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All of the chemicals in wood bleach usually contain substances that are not safe for health and can be dangerous if used improperly. Be sure to take steps to protect yourself from contact with such substances and try not to inhale their vapors. Wear gloves and goggles. Use a gas mask (not a respirator) if necessary
Before bleaching - consult a specialist in How to bleach a bar.
The best bleaches are those that do not destroy lignin - the basis of wood.
It is better to bleach the entire wall surface so that individual wall logs do not look like black sheep in the design.
Excessive concentration of chemicals can "kill" wood texture and tints, making them look like plastic sticks.
The air temperature during bleaching is not lower than 5 degrees Celsius, so that the reaction is intense.
Wood bleaching is widely used when it is necessary to soften the natural tone of the wood, remove unwanted stains, and make the wood look attractive. There are several methods of bleaching.
Wood bleaches act one at a time general principle: in fact, wood bleaching is an oxidation process that leads to discoloration of the pigment colors of lignin, as well as the destruction and discoloration of the cells of wood-coloring fungi.
Conventionally, wood bleaching compounds can be divided into chlorine-containing bleaches and chlorine-free bleaches.
The former include bleaches containing sodium or potassium hypochlorite (NaClO or KClO), bleach Ca (OH) ClO, chlorine dioxide ClO2, etc.
The latter include bleaches based on hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 2H2O.), In combination with ammonia NH4NO3 or alkalis and salts (NaOH, Ca (OH) 2), oxalic acid (H2C2O4), etc. 
For all of the above substances, the process of wood bleaching is reduced to discoloration of colors of various natures with active oxygen radicals.
In bleaches based on hydrogen peroxide, the bleaching process occurs due to the oxidation of colors by the peroxy group -O-O- and partly due to the oxygen that is formed during the decomposition of peroxide compounds: 2H2O = 2H2O + O2
What kind of wood can be bleached
During the construction period, wood untreated with antiseptics darkens from exposure external factors and mushroom colors (mold, blue). 
Darkened wood can still be bleached, but not in all cases. Only superficial wood lesions are bleached. The bleaching depth of wood is determined by the penetration depth of the bleach, which rarely exceeds 3 mm. If the lesion is too deep, then attempts to bleach the wood may be in vain. through the translucent bleached layer of wood, "blue" can be seen.
The wood must be bleached if the wood grain will decorate the interior or exterior of any building.
But the wood may not be bleached at all if there are no special requirements for the appearance of the wood, or the wood is planned to be painted over with a covering coating, sheathed with another material. 
It is important to understand that bleaching of moldy and blue stained wood is a much more time-consuming and very expensive process than antiseptic treatment.
To prevent damage to wood by mold and staining fungi, it is treated with a difficult-to-wash antiseptic ZELEST STAGON. The antiseptic is made in accordance with modern environmental requirements, it does not emit odor and does not change. The product is supplied as a liquid concentrate. The working solution of the antiseptic is easy to prepare; for this, the concentrate is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 9.
Wood bleaching methods
Bleach for wood, boards, logs, houses
What is the process of bleaching wood wood? How to restore natural, natural light color wood logs? What is the best wood bleach to bleach boards, lumber, beams and logs?
We answer:
Wood-coloring fungi give wood a bluish-gray color, called "blue" or "blackness", but there are fungi that color the wood brown, yellow, green or pink tones... You should know that the defeat of blue has not only an optical defect, and at first glance does not seem to destroy the wood. However, we must not forget that it is "blue" and "blackness" that creates a breeding ground for the growth of fungi that destroy the tree, which directly affects the strength and durability. wooden structure at home or bath.
Changed, as a result of improper storage, the original color of the wood can be bleached using a special wood bleaching compound. The quality of such bleaches on the market varies and depends on chemical composition... One of the real bleaches for wood - logs, boards and lumber, the quality of which is time-tested for Russian market, is the composition of "Sagus", "Mikaut", Neomid 500, Septol 50 and "League Bioshield". 
These bleaching compounds are designed to return wood affected by woody blue and mildew to its original decorative properties, to give wood surfaces that have darkened with time, the original color and texture of fresh wood.
To make a wooden product made of pine, spruce, linden or poplar pure white without losing its texture, use a solution of colorless any of these bleaches.
Processing and bleaching of wood, namely bleaching of sawn timber and boards, should be carried out in well-ventilated rooms or outdoors at temperatures above zero.
The consumption of preparations for bleaching wood depends on the nature of the lumber and is 150-300 grams per 1 square meter.
In some cases, when the depth of penetration of wood-coloring fungi into the wood of the tree is more than 3 mm, it is necessary to carry out two or three processing of the wood.
When bleaching wood - boards, beams, logs and lumber, it is extremely important to decide and purchase a quality wood bleach
How to bleach wood properly?
If you want the paint to lay flat on the wood and not change its color after drying, then you need to bleach the wood. And any stains on the surface of the wood can be masked with bleaching. So let's figure out how to bleach wood. 
First you need to decide on the most suitable whitening product. After all, wood can be bleached with hydrogen peroxide, titanium peroxide, bleach and oxalic acid. You will be interested in vertical.
If you decide to bleach with oxalic acid, then first treat the surface of the wood with a solution of sodium hydrosulfite, and after a day, apply oxalic acid to the surface and rinse it off with water after five minutes.
After bleaching, you can remove the resin with a bleach solution. To prepare it, you need 30 g of soda ash, pour 100 g warm water, and then cool the water and add 15 g of bleach. Treat wood with this solution, and then rinse it off with water.
You can qualitatively discolor wood using a 30% hydrogen peroxide solution. But be sure to blot the wood before applying the peroxide. hot water, dry and treat with ammonia.
Deciduous is very good to bleach with milk of lime. To prepare it, dilute 10 grams of baking soda with 350 grams of water, and then add 80 grams of bleach.
Well, you can quickly discolor the surface of the wood with a solution of acetic or citric acid.
Choosing a quality wood bleach.
SENEZH NEO - Means for gently bleaching wood and removing surface lesions
SENEZH NEO is intended for gentle surface lightening of wood that has darkened as a result of fungal staining, exposure to atmospheric and temporary factors, solar UV radiation, as well as removal of surface bio-damage of various nature.
Application area
SENEZH NEO is used on planed, sawn and chopped wooden surfaces not previously processed paints and varnishes, indoors and outdoors. The product is not used to remove blue stains in the thickness of the wood. It is allowed to use the agent on concrete, tiles, stone, tiles, bricks and other materials to remove mold, moss, algae and lichens.
Key Benefits
Gently bleaches wood with a mild oxidizing agent
Does not have bad smell, does not emit toxic compounds 
Especially suitable for internal works, does not require special precautions
Improves significantly appearance affected wood
Does not destroy the structure of wood, does not damage the surface
Effectively removes superficial bio-lesions
Retains the natural smell and breath of wood
Increases the grade of affected lumber
Does not affect the strength, adhesion and coloration of wood
Fire-, explosion- safe material
Mode of application
The working solution of SENEZH NEO is prepared immediately before use by mixing Components A and B in a ratio of 1: 4; Apply generously to the affected areas with a brush, brush or sponge in several steps with an interval of 20-40 minutes. Use the ready-made working solution within 2-3 hours. Work vertical surfaces from bottom to top. Before painting, rinse the treated surfaces with water, rinse vertical surfaces from top to bottom. Large surfaces are usually whitened completely over the entire area.
The actual consumption of the working solution depends on the degree of damage to the wood and is usually 200 - 400 g / m2.
Product type
A two-pack, on-site formulation based on active oxygen.
Method of exposure
The bleaching mechanism of SENEZH NEO is based on the reaction of free-radical activation of an oxidizing agent with the release of active oxygen, which, without damaging the wood, oxidizes darkened fragments of lignin and fungal stains, brightening and disinfecting the surface.
Security measures
Work in goggles, gloves. Avoid contact with open parts of the body, getting inside. In case of contact with eyes and mouth, rinse with water. Hazard class IV (low hazard) according to GOST 12.1.007. Approved for use by Rospotrebnadzor of the Russian Federation. Fire and explosion safe. Dispose of as household waste... Do not mix with other formulations! Avoid contact with metals!
Storage and transportation
Store and transport SENEZH NEO in a sealed manufacturer's container in a cool place out of the reach of children, separately from food products... Protect from direct sunlight! Avoid heating! Expiration date - 12 months. It is allowed to use after the expiration date with an increase in the consumption rate.
Package
Component A and Component B of SENEZH NEO products are packed in polyethylene canisters with a net weight of 4 kg + 20 kg, respectively.
Certificates
Russian certificates
Belarus Certificates
Ukraine Certificates
Bleaching wood with Neomid 500 impregnation.
What to do? Trouble! My log house has turned black wooden house! Everything was covered with blue - blue, stained with fungus and inside in the log house there is a terrible mold! What to do? Help!
This is often the beginning of a conversation with an inexperienced builder of a log house of a wooden house or a wooden bathhouse.
They also ask: how to whiten and remove mold and wood-staining fungus? I heard that there is an impregnation agent for these purposes - wood bleach, but I don’t know where to buy it and what is the price of this wood bleach?
The honored builder of log cabins, builder of country wooden and bathhouses V.Yu. Yudin answers the question. 
In my experience, bleaching wood is required if it is infected with wood-staining fungus and blue (white) mold. Wood bleach also helps in the fight against the most dangerous - house fungus and blue mold. In my practice of making log cabins and construction wooden houses from a bar very often wood suffers from this misfortune. Moreover, it would be okay for the wood to turn black, turn blue and become stained and retain its physical qualities. But this is not the case here. Wood from harmful fungus and mold very quickly begins to deteriorate and lose its physical and chemical properties, in short, if you do not apply intensive bleaching of wood, intensive decay and destruction of wood begins. All this can happen very quickly. Therefore, if you find signs of fungus - dark (or blue) spots on wood, then you should immediately buy the most effective wood bleach Neomid 500 and immediately apply it for its intended purpose - bleaching wood (wood) logs wooden frame- a wooden house from a bar. Wood bleach Neomid 500, in addition to bleaching, will help you disinfect logs and timber from fungus and, with a guarantee, destroy fungus spores and mold spores.
Many people ask the question whether there are others, except for the Neomid 500 wood bleach, with a stronger spectrum of action. I can say with confidence that another such effective means does not exist in Russia. Wood bleach Neomid 500 is the most effective and radical composition on a chlorine basis. Not one of the types of wood-destroying fungi (fungi) can resist against its action. Bleach Neomid 500 destroys everything known species wood pests.
Therefore, my summary is this - if you find suspicious black, yellow, green or blue spots on the surface of a log house (on logs, beams or lumber) - you should know that your wood has started to become infected with a wood-coloring fungus (fungus). There is only one remedy against this - wood bleach Neomid 500!
They often ask: how many times a log house needs to be processed - wooden house for the final destruction of fungus or mold. My opinion is that in this case it is best to bleach wood two or three times with an interval of 24 hours.
Helpful hints: when bleaching wood after a fungus has infected its wood, keep in mind that the effect of bleaching wood from blue and black colors (wood-coloring fungi) will be much stronger if it is twice dried with an intermediate interval of 24 hours. Survivors after primary processing- bleaching wood wood wood-coloring mushrooms and their spores will be re-bleached - finally destroyed!
With the help of bleaching, you can not only soften the natural tone of the wood, but also remove unwanted stains. , depending on the breed, turns white after 2-8 hours. To make a wooden product made of linden, pine, spruce or poplar pure white without losing its texture (darker veins and borders of wood layers), an aqueous solution of colorless bleach is usually used.
There are several ways to bleach wood.
Tools and materials: 
1. Bleach
2. Crystalline soda
3. Water
4. Caustic sodium
5. Perhydrol (30% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution)
Attention! This work should be done with gloves.
Choosing a bleaching method and preparing a special solution.
1. Mix 8 parts of bleach with 1 part of salt, and then add 35 parts of water to it. We mix. Let the solution brew. We process wood. Repeat 3-4 times, then rinse with water and dry. Bleach destroys almost all coloring matter, while simultaneously removing all resinous and tannins from the tree.
2. Make a sodium hydroxide solution by mixing 48 g of this chemical with 100 g of water. We apply a solution of sodium hydroxide to the surface of the tree. We dry it.
3. We process the tree with perhydrol. We dry it. If the whitening seemed insufficient, we repeat the procedure. To neutralize this area, rinse it with 4% acetic acid solution. We dry it.
4. Add ammonia to a 15% aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide - in such an amount that the composition has a strong smell of ammonia. We moisten the wood with this solution and leave it for several days. In this case, the tree will become completely white.
Bleaching wood means changing its color to a lighter one as a result of exposure to chemical substances(see video). It is known that the natural color of different tree species is different. For example, in maple it is gray, in cedar it is brown, in linden it is white, in apple tree it is reddish, in pine it is yellow or red, in alder it is brown, etc.
Over time, the color becomes even more saturated and darkens (see photo). In such cases, it is very difficult to color it in bright hues... Therefore, the wood is pre-bleached. You can do this with your own hands at home.
DIY wood bleaching methods at home
Bleach
There are several ways to bleach wood with bleach (see video). According to the first of them, bleach is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and left for some time. After the liquid has infused a little, you can moisten the surface of the selected material with it, after which it is wiped with acetic acid after about 5 minutes. The lightening of the tree should come within 15 minutes after the manipulation. If the wood is very dark, then the procedure will have to be repeated several times.
According to the second method of bleaching, bleach is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:20. After a little settling, the liquid is poured into a large container, into which it is subsequently immersed. required material... After about 3 minutes, about 75 ml per 1 liter of acetic acid is added to the container. In such a solution, the tree should be whitened in about 40 minutes.
Calcium hypochlorite
For whitening at home with the presented solution, it is diluted with water in a ratio of 8: 100. The resulting mixture is wiped on the surface of the material, and after about 5 minutes it is additionally rubbed with a solution of acetic acid.
Hydrogen peroxide
For whitening with your own hands, the selected surface is moistened with hydrogen peroxide, which is left untouched for a while (see video). Then the treated surface is wetted with ammonia. The wood should lighten in 15 minutes. If this does not happen, the manipulation must be repeated.
Immersion in porcelain or enamel dishes
To lighten the material by this method, water, hydrogen peroxide and ammonia are mixed in proportions of 10: 10: 5. Do-it-yourself material is immersed in the created solution, previously poured into an enamel or porcelain container (see photo), and left in it for about an hour and a half, after which it is removed and dried in a well-ventilated room.
Oxalic acid
At home, whitening can also be done with oxalic acid. For this, oxalic acid is diluted with water in a ratio of 4: 100. The resulting liquid moistens the surface of the material, after which, after about 10 minutes, it should brighten, as in the photo. After that, the tree is moistened with water and left to dry in a well-ventilated area.