Pakhira, or, in a simpler way, a bottle tree, is grown at home by amateur flower growers because of its peculiar, bottle-like trunk and luxurious crown, which does not change its bright green color throughout the year. And if you also have a growing specimen of several plants, the trunks of which are intertwined in a spiral or in a pigtail, then neighbors and acquaintances will simply be envious. In addition to the exotic appearance, the relative unpretentiousness of the plant attracts - any novice florist can take care of Pakhira at home.
The homeland of Pakhira is considered to be the tropical regions of Central and South America. Pachira (Pachira) belongs to the Bombax family (baobabs), and in the taxonomy of England it belongs to the Malvaceae family. The leaf plates of the plant resemble chestnut leaves, for which the tree is sometimes called the giant chestnut from Guiana or the Malabar chestnut. Translated from Latin, Pakhira means fatty - the appearance of the trunk often corresponds to this name. There are other names for this unusual tree. Chinese tree and bottle tree. And in East Asia and Japan, Pakhira is called the money tree. It is grown in many businesses, farms, and private estates, as it is believed to contribute to the accumulation of capital. The Taiwanese economy exports the bottle tree to various countries of the world annually for many million dollars.
Feng Shui Pakhira
Feng Shui masters believe that Pakhira brings health, luck and material well-being to the house. Each of the five fingers on the Pakhira leaf symbolizes its natural element - metal, water, fire, earth and wood. The formation of the next leaf helps to increase family wealth. Growing this wonderful tree in your home will contribute to the formation of a special aura that enhances the effect of positive and weakening the effect of negative energies formed on the principles of feng shui.
Features of growing Pakhira
The bottle tree grows rather slowly, but under favorable conditions it can grow up to 20 meters in the wild. At home, Pakhira grows up to three meters in height and one and a half meters in crown diameter. The trunk of the tree is shaped like a bottle and expands towards the bottom. There is a cavity between the bark and the wood, in which the wood stores water. Young trees usually grow in one trunk. Only when they reach a height of two meters does branching begin. The leaves of the plant are leathery, bright green. They are palmate-complex in shape, with long petioles. As we already wrote, they are very similar to the leaves of chestnuts.
Under natural conditions, Pakhira is a tall tree with a voluminous crown.
Pakhira blooms very rarely indoors. You can only see its bloom in the wild or in greenhouses. Many narrow and long, up to 15 cm, fragrant flowers of white or yellowish color are collected in a large paniculate inflorescence, about 35 cm in length. After flowering, fruits are formed of an elongated, rounded olive color, from 10 to 25 cm in length.
Pakhira is not a poisonous plant. It can be safely grown in rooms where there are children and pets. Pakhira seeds are edible and can be eaten raw or fried.
The plant looks especially exotic and beautiful when its stems are intertwined in the form of a pigtail at a young age or a tree is grown in the form of a bonsai. Pakhira can be grown as a single tree, but then you should know that the formation of side shoots and tillering will occur several years later, when the plant grows to the ceiling. Therefore, at a young age, several specimens are planted at once in one pot, and the trunks are intertwined with each other in a kind of pigtails. In flower shops, these very copies of Pakhira are most often sold - with several intertwined stems. The process of creating such a masterpiece is quite laborious and time-consuming, therefore the cost of such plants is quite high.
Types of indoor plants Pakhira
Pakhira Water (Aquatica)
Pakhira water (Aquatika)- the most popular type of Pakhira in home cultivation. This miniature tree has a characteristic thickening of the lower part of the trunk, the size of which depends directly on the growing conditions. Thanks to this thickening, filled with nutritious moisture, Pakhira normally tolerates the lack of watering and drying out of the soil in the pot, but excessive watering is contraindicated for her. Interesting are the dark green leaves of the tree - a complex shape in the form of fingers with a wrinkled surface, shiny and leathery. The flowering period is long, from June to November. Under favorable indoor conditions, flowering can last all year round. Moreover, during flowering, the tree does not shed its leaves, as some of its relatives do.
On a long, up to 35 cm, panicle there are large flowers with many stamens. The colors of the flowers are different - white, pink or pale green. The scent of the flowers is reminiscent of the scent of vanilla. The fruits of Pakhira are large, up to 25 cm, light green berries in the form of an ellipse, which quickly lignify. After ripening, the fruit is split in the center. Inside it are seeds in an amount of 10 to 25 pieces. The seeds have a tough brown skin, which is why they are sometimes called nuts. These nuts can be eaten raw, boiled, or roasted. They can be used to grind flour and bake bread. In addition, a drink that tastes like chocolate is prepared from the nuts.
Round-leaved pakhira... This species is distinguished by long, creeping shoots with rounded leaves. Indoors it is grown as an ampelous plant.
The plant looks like Pakhira aquatic, the difference is in the leaves - they have silvery stripes.
Caring for Pakhira at home
Planting a plant in a pot and replanting
If you bought Pakhira in a store, then upon arrival home, you need to transplant the plant from the temporary container in which you bought it into your pot. For this, use a transshipment method in which the root system is minimally injured. Water the soil well in the shipping container so that the water saturates the entire clod so it will be easier for you to remove the plant. Prepare the pot (flowerpot, flowerpot) wide and not deep, 2 to 4 cm larger in diameter than the store one. Since Pakhira has a superficial root system, then when planting, try not to deepen the stem of the plant - from this it can rot. The third part of the pot should be occupied by a drainage system - expanded clay mixed with broken brick and charcoal. The soil for Pakhira is prepared from a mixture of equal proportions of sod, leafy soil and sand. It should be light, loose, slightly acidic and not too nutritious. Ready-made potting soil for palms and dracaena, which can be purchased at specialty stores, is suitable.
If you are planting a Pakhira stalk rooted in water, plant it immediately in a small pot up to 12 cm in diameter with drainage and suitable soil. In this pot it will grow during rooting.
It is possible to plant Pakhira in a permanent place at any time of the year. However, the periods of active plant growth are considered the best for easy plant survival - this is spring and early summer.
It is worth buying a bottle tree in the warm season so that its root system and delicate leaves do not suffer from frost during transportation.
As the Pakhira grows, they transplant it into new, looser pots. More often this is required in the first years of its active growth, once or twice a year. More mature plants require transplanting less often - once every three years.
Lighting and pot location
Pakhira is a big fan of good lighting. The better the lighting, the more intensive the growth of new leaves. But this does not mean that her pot can be placed on the windowsill, through the window of which the sun will shine all day long. For a short time, she will calmly withstand the action of direct sunlight, especially in the mornings and at sunset, but it is still better to find her a place with bright, but diffused sunlight. Let it be window sills on the east or west side of the apartment. On northern windows, with a lack of lighting, Pakhira will stretch and may lose its decorative properties. It will grow well on the southern windows only if its foliage is protected from the scorching midday sun.
You can gradually accustom her to the sun's rays, starting from three to four hours a day, leaving her in the sun. Then, in the summer, you can expose it to fresh air in the garden or on an open veranda without prejudice to your health and appearance. In winter, if you keep your beauty at a low temperature and minimal watering, it will not stretch out with a short daylight hours. If you keep it at room temperature in winter, then you will have to put Pakhir in the lightest place in the room so that it does not stretch out and lose its decorative effect. In addition, you will have to increase its watering and use a powerful backlight for lighting. Choose a place for Pakhira in the room so that the movement of air around the plant is minimal, and cold air from the window or from the air conditioner does not get on the leaves.
Temperature
The optimum temperature for growing Pakhira at home is considered to be 22 - 26 grams. Celsius. This is in the spring and summer. And in winter, the temperature should be maintained within 16 - 18 degrees. Below 15 gr. the flower will not stand - its root system will start to rot from hypothermia. Pakhira dislikes both cold drafts and the hot air of heating devices near her pot. The plant does not tolerate sudden changes in ambient temperature. It can be exposed to the open air only when the weather is warm, since the difference between day and night temperatures can provoke curling and falling of its leaves.
Watering and humidity
In summer, the plant should be watered abundantly, but not excessively. For irrigation, use settled water at room temperature. Pour water in a thin stream along the sides of the pot, try not to flood the bottom of the barrel. Bottom watering into the pallet is also possible. But, it is important not to allow stagnation of water in the sump - after some time, excess water from the sump must be drained. The next watering should be carried out no earlier than the upper part of the earthen coma dries well after the previous watering. The plant accumulates reserve water in its trunk and will calmly wait for the next watering. But frequent waterlogging can lead to decay of the roots and fall of foliage. In winter, watering must be reduced significantly.
In the heat, the crown of pakhira should be sprayed daily with clean water.
Pakhira is not demanding on the humidity of the air; it easily tolerates the low humidity of the room. Although, in hot summertime, its crown can and should be sprayed daily with clean water from a fine spray bottle, but it is advisable not to wet the stem - it is prone to decay.
Top dressing
Pakhira does not require any special nutritious soil. Top dressing is possible only during the period of its active growth - in spring and summer, once a month, with a complex mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous indoor plants.
How to create a pigtail trunk
Pakhira's young stems have excellent flexibility. This allows at an early stage of plant growth to create conditions for its future decorative appearance. If you plant two or three Pakhira cuttings of the same height in one pot at once, you can create your original plant specimen with an intertwined stem. To do this, well-rooted cuttings are curled spirally or braided, and the top is neatly pulled together with twine so as not to disrupt the movement of the juice in the stems. While the seedlings do not hold their shape well, they can be tied for a while with improvised means - with a rope or twine. When the trunks become more mature and pick up moisture well, they will begin to independently hold the view given to them - then the holding ropes can be removed. The plant continues to grow. You remove excess leaves and continue curling the trunks. This procedure must be carried out until the trunks begin to lignify. In the areas where the stems touch, the bark can be cut off, then the stems will grow together, and Pakhira will look more harmonious and decorative. We warn you that the process of creating your masterpiece will take quite a long time - at least a couple of years.
To make the crown lush and beautiful, in the spring, at home, they prune the apical shoots of Pakhira. The plant will quickly grow green mass and delight you with young bright green leaves.
Reproduction of Pakhira
Pakhira is propagated using seeds and apical cuttings.
Pachira seeds are formed inside the fruit
Pakhira seeds reproduce quite easily. They are purchased in special stores. Only fresh seeds will do. They are planted in wide containers on the surface, practically without sprinkling with soil. Spray with warm water from a spray bottle. Cover the planting with glass or polyethylene. You can use a container with a lid. Maintain a constant temperature in the range of 25 - 27 grams. The plantings are periodically ventilated and moistened as needed. Seedlings should appear within three weeks.
Pakhira stalk
Reproduction of pakhira by cuttings has its own characteristics. Cuttings should be harvested at the end of August. They are cut from the tops of the shoots of the plant. They should be lignified and have a "heel", that is, a piece of the trunk. In addition, there should be one bud with a leaf on the handle. The substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat and sand. Cuttings are planted in containers with a lid or other containers under glass or plastic wrap - in such a mini-greenhouse. Rooting temperature should be in the range of 25 - 27 grams. Celsius. Humidity should be above average. The greenhouse is regularly ventilated, if necessary - moisten the substrate, do not allow it to dry out. When roots and new sprouts appear on the cuttings, they can be planted in their own pots. This will happen in three to four weeks.
Apical cuttings can be rooted in a glass of water. Use special preparations for better root formation - Kornevin or Zircon. Cover the glass with cuttings with a bag to create a greenhouse effect, put in a warm, bright place and wait for the roots to appear.
Diseases and other difficulties in growing Pakhira
In case of violations of the rules of plant care, most often, Pakhira suffers from the root system and the lower part of the trunk. The stem loses its elasticity and becomes soft. The disease develops at low ambient temperatures and excessive watering. It is not necessary to spray the plant in a cool room in winter. It is not necessary to fill the lower part of the trunk when watering. Do not water the plant with cold tap water. Do not allow water to stagnate in the sump. If the surface of the stem nevertheless begins to rot, then the place of decay can be carefully cut out with a sharp, clean instrument to healthy tissue. Sprinkle the wound with crushed charcoal or activated charcoal. In the event of a large-scale damage to the trunk, the plant cannot be saved. We recommend cutting off the top of the plant and trying to root it using the methods described above.
- With a chronic lack of moisture, Pakhira can shed its leaves.
- With too dry indoor air and insufficient watering in the hot season, the tips of the leaves of the plant turn brown. Adjust the watering of the flower and regularly spray the crown with clean warm water (do not wet the stem).
- At low temperatures in the room or at a sharp drop in night and day temperatures, the leaves of the plant curl and fall off. Find a warmer place for the plant with a constant temperature of 25 - 27 degrees.
- With a lack of lighting, the stems of the plant stretch out, the leaves become smaller and become faded, and the characteristic thickening at the bottom of the stem disappears - the tree loses its decorative effect. Move the pot towards the light or arrange artificial lighting for the flower.
- If direct sunlight hits a young plant that is not accustomed to the sun, dry light spots may appear on its leaves - sunburn. Protection from the midday sun is essential.
- If Pakhira has a pot that is too large or too deep, there is a danger of water stagnation in it. Excess soil moisture leads to decay of plant stems, they become soft, the leaves turn black. The root system will start to rot. The plant grows slowly, its leaves turn yellow and fall off.
- The leaves of Pakhira turn yellow and dry even when the soil in the pot is clearly insufficient in nutritional value. The plant will begin to save nutrients and shed extra leaves, from its point of view, although it is evergreen. Feed the tree, or better, transplant it into a new, more nutritious substrate.
- It is necessary to regularly inspect the Pakhira stem. It must be firm and firm to the touch at all times. Squeezing and softness indicate waterlogging and decay of the root system. The plant must be removed from the pot, cut off the damaged roots. Places of cuts should be sprinkled with ash or crushed coal. After that, Pakhira is kept in a shaded place for several hours, after which it is planted in a new substrate and is not watered for a week.
- The appearance of dark spots on the leaves is possible from drafts or when watering with cold water. Remove the pot from the draft and water with warmer, settled water.
Pakhira's pests
Very often, small white worms - pests - start in the soil under the plant. For this reason, Pakhira may turn yellow, its leaves will dry and fall off. They can be seen on the surface of the substrate. To remove these insects, it is necessary to water the soil with a weak solution of manganese, and then sprinkle the surface of the substrate with hot pepper or tobacco powder.
Caring for Pakhira at home has its own characteristics that are important to know and follow. We hope that with the help of this article, you will be able to grow this unusual exotic tree at home, and it will become a decoration of your home for many years to come.
Among those capable of accumulating water in the trunk of plants, aquatic pakhira has always occupied a special, honorable place. And it's not just that the plant is called the bottle tree (by merit). This beauty, unlike competitors, can rather boast of her classic appearance. Large pakhira leaves with a strict silhouette and unusual, but revealing its true beauty only near the trunk and tree-like silhouette made this plant a legend. But the main advantage of this non-standard caudex is its rather large size. Able to compete with trees and shrubs, water pakhira tolerates room conditions well and requires, albeit specific, but completely uncomplicated care.
Pakhira water (Pachira aquatica). © MP3SILVER Content:
Pakhira aquatic - tree-like caudex with elegant simplicity of leaves
Pakhira aquatic does not at all look like an exotic plant and, unlike its caudex colleagues, at first glance does not give the impression of an unprecedented exotic. In spirit and character, it is more akin to classic indoor woody plants, it gives the impression of a traditional and even relict plant. Austere, neat, with simple but elegant shapes, pakhira is easily misleading. Despite its understated appearance, it requires the same care as any other caudex plant.
Pakhira came to us from the tropical forests of South America, where it can be found in swampy areas. In its homeland, it is also known as the Guiana or Malabar chestnut, and in the West as the Chinese and money tree. In our country, aquatic pakhira is most often called the bottle tree, although it shares this name with several other caudex cultures.
Pakhira water (Pachira aquatica) conquers with its tree-like silhouette and structure. It is difficult to guess from a distance about the unusualness of pakhira: it seems just a classic, strict and even somewhat prim tree. And only at close range you can appreciate all the advantages of this beauty. Most often, pakhirs on sale are represented by specimens with artificially intertwined trunks, which seem to be a bizarre work of art.
But pakhirs with a simple trunk are also very beautiful (especially since with age they will begin to bush and release side shoots). The interweaving of the trunks of several different young plants into a kind of pigtail is very effective, but it also has its drawbacks: over time, sooner or later, some of the plants intertwined with each other die off and die, and only the strongest survive. But this happens slowly and for many years you can admire the intricate ligature of the trunks.
The height of the trunks increases with time: in young plants they are practically invisible, but the “stem” gradually lengthens and rises upward. The height of pakhira water in room culture is limited to 1-1.5 m. The trunk is thickened downwards, it stores water between bark and wood. Branches with luxurious leaves only adorn the original trunks of the plant.
Even the foliage of the aquatic pakhira is deceiving. From a distance, it seems that the plant produces classic large oval-lanceolate leaves with a flawless silhouette, but it's not so simple. In fact, ideal dark leaves are just a fraction of five-fingered compound leaves spread out like a palm. The dark, rich color favorably emphasizes the classic beauty of the greenery of this plant. The palm-shaped leaves of the aquatic pakhira seem both massive and graceful at the same time. And even if there are not so many of them, they create a full-fledged crown.
Conditions required for pakhira aquatic
One of the main advantages of pakhira water is its simplicity. She does not need a cool winter, but she can put up with it, does not impose special requirements on other growing conditions and, with sufficient lighting, practically does not cause problems. This plant is suitable even for novice flower growers and those who do not have enough time for meticulous care: watering for pakhira is rarely carried out, which allows you to significantly unload the schedule for caring for her collections.
Of course, she does not add to the list of the best indoor Spartans, but it is still a very friendly plant. The high price of pakhira is associated with the difficulties of its cultivation and formation, long-term growth to achieve an attractive shape.
Lighting for pakhira aquatic
In fact, the only strict requirements of pakhira aquatic are precisely the lighting. This plant requires either a sunny location or diffused bright light. Direct midday rays leave burns on the leaves, but morning and evening rays are not afraid of pakhirs. Even in light partial shade, pakhira is not grown.
The photophilous beauty is able to put up with some reduction in the intensity of light in winter, but if it is possible to compensate for it, this will only have a positive effect on the attractiveness of the crown. It is necessary to change the lighting in winter gradually, stretching its movement to a new place in several stages.
Finding a place for pakhira is not easy. Only young plants fit on the windowsill without any problems, while adults need to be moved into the interior, and there it is difficult to recreate bright lighting. The eastern and western windowsills are considered ideal places for the intensity of illumination.
Comfortable temperature
The bottle tree feels good in any living room. Normal room temperatures from 18 to 23 degrees are suitable for him, but the plant will be able to adapt to a hotter environment, provided the air humidity rises, and to colder temperatures, if the indicators do not fall below 12 degrees Celsius. Changing the conditions in winter for this plant is not necessary, but if there is a natural drop in air temperature, the pakhira will not suffer. In the heat of winter, provided that there are no measures to compensate for the reduction in light, the pakhira can begin to stretch.
Resistant to temperature extremes, pakhira feels great outdoors in summer. But you can display it not in the garden, but on a terrace or balcony protected from wind and rain.
Air humidity for pakhira
The humidity of the air for pakhira, if possible, should be high. It does not require constant measures and a tropical environment, but if you can increase the rates to 60% or more, then the plant will respond to such care with more active growth.
Caring for pakhira water at home
Watering pakhira
Due to the ability to accumulate water in the trunk, pakhira can significantly simplify the maintenance regimen. This plant is drought-resistant, does not tolerate waterlogging and abundant watering. Subsequent procedures are carried out carefully, with a small amount of water, after the top layer of the substrate has dried. If pakhira needs more intensive watering, it signals this with its sluggish leaves.
In winter, watering for pakhira should be reduced, allowing both the upper and middle layers of the substrate to dry out, maintaining only light soil moisture. Any waterlogging at this time of the year can cause stem rot. For pakhira, unlike many caudex ones, bottom watering is unacceptable. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the water: it should be not only soft, but also warm (several degrees warmer than the air temperature).
Pakhira is content with spraying as well, he feels good when installing pallets and bowls with damp materials.
Only the crown, but not the trunk, can be sprayed on the pakhira. Spraying procedures become mandatory only when the air temperature rises above 23 degrees Celsius. Too dry air during heating systems operation and in summer can cause loss of leaves.
Feeding for pakhira water
Pakhira does not like an excess of nutrients in the soil, as well as excessively intense watering. Fertilizers for the plant are applied quite rarely, with a frequency of 1 time per month even in the phase of active growth, but from November to February, feeding is not carried out at all.
For pakhira, it is better to choose special fertilizers for succulents, but universal mixtures are also suitable if their dosage is halved.
Pakhira water (Pachira aquatica). © Traijin Pruning pakhira aquatic
Pakhira shaping is optional, but desirable. The plant develops quite rapidly, and if it loses its compactness, attractiveness, looks sloppy, then it can be cut off at will, removing excess shoots or shortening the branches stretching upward, in order to thicken the crown and give it a spherical shape.
The trunk of the pakhira must not be touched. Moreover, it is only by trimming that the height of the barrel and its thickness can be adjusted. Pruning can only be carried out in the first half of the warm season, from late February to mid-summer.
Transplant and substrate
Even at a very young age, it is better to transplant pakhira only as needed. The transplant is carried out at the usual time - in the second half of February or March.
The containers for pakhira water are increased by 4-5 cm in diameter. Particular attention should be paid to the ratio of height and width: for pakhira, the diameter of the pot should be larger than its depth, since the rhizome develops mainly in breadth.
The substrate is selected from among loose, slightly acidic mixtures. High nutritional value of the soil for pakhira is undesirable. You can select ready-made soil mixtures, as for palms or dracaena, or you can independently compose the soil from equal parts of sod, leafy soil and sand without humus with the addition of half a dose of brick chips.
To prevent problems with dampness and compaction of the substrate, a high drainage layer must be laid on the bottom of the container during transplantation. In this case, the planting depth for pakhira must be left the same.
Diseases and pests of aquatic pachyra
Pakhira cannot be called a persistent plant. It is often affected by spider mites and thrips. It is possible to effectively control pests only by correcting care in combination with spraying with insecticides.
Common problems in growing aquatic pakhira:
- falling leaves with extreme dry air;
- rotting of the stem when the soil is damp or soaking during watering;
- stretching branches and trunk with poor lighting;
- the appearance of spots on the leaves when exposed to direct sunlight;
- rolling leaves at low temperatures;
- the appearance of a brown edge of the leaves or drying of the tips in drafts and in very dry air.
Propagation of the bottle tree
Pakhira water can be obtained from seeds and cuttings.
Plant seeds are sown in any universal substrate, leveled and watered several hours before sowing. Seeds of pakhira water must be spread over the soil without covering them with soil or covering them with the thinnest layer of substrate. After sowing, the seeds are additionally sprayed with warm water. Germination is carried out under a film or glass, with daily ventilation and maintaining the temperature from 25 to 30 degrees. Pakhira sprouts within 3 weeks, but the freshness of the seeds is of decisive importance (the percentage of germination rapidly decreases over time).
To obtain new plants, apical cuttings are cut from pakhira using young branches with a "heel". Cuttings are carried out in spring or June. Cuttings are rooted only in a sand-peat mixture under a hood. Temperatures are similar to those for growing from seed. The humidity should be constantly high.
(Pachira aquatica) with trunks woven into a spectacular braid and a beautiful lush crown consisting of large, bright green palmate leaves on long petioles, it is considered a plant with good energy and loved by followers of Feng Shui.Among its many popular names, such as the Malabar chestnut or the saba nut, one stands out - the Money tree. Legend has it that once a beggar farmer prayed for help. Soon a new plant grew in the field, which he brought home and noticed that things were getting better. Whether this old story is true or not, it is generally accepted that pakhira brings prosperity and good luck, and stems are braided into a pigtail to keep them.
A small plant can be placed on the desktop, and a large specimen will serve as a decoration for a large room. In good conditions, pakhira is a durable indoor or office plant. Caring for her is simple, but it requires compliance with certain conditions.
Lighting. Pakhira prefers to grow in bright, diffused light. If the leaves are starting to turn yellow, look for a sunnier spot for it, but not in direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves.
Indoors, change location throughout the year as needed. Remember to turn the pot 45 degrees regularly so that the crown grows evenly.
Pakhira grows well under bright artificial light, which is very good for an office plant.
Temperature. Pakhira can grow in the range from +10 to +32 o C, but it is optimal to maintain the temperature + 20 ... + 24 o C in summer, and in winter, with a lack of light, reduce it to +16 o C. The plant can withstand a temperature drop to +7 o C without any serious damage, but in colder conditions, leaf fall will begin, and at temperatures below 0, death will occur.
Watering. The plant loves abundant watering, but may suffer from waterlogging. In its natural environment, pakhira grows in places that receive large amounts of water, but then dry out. When caring for a plant, it is best to mimic these conditions. Water liberally so that the entire lump is well moistened, and then let the soil dry almost to the bottom. You usually need to water about two to three times a month, sometimes weekly watering may be required. Occasionally, you can give the plant a warm shower, combining it with watering.
In winter, when resting, reduce watering. The stems of the plant have an extension at the bottom, which stores moisture for a possible drought period, so do not worry about it drying out too much. Excessive watering will lead to the appearance of brown spots on the leaves and leaf fall.
Air humidity. Pakhira prefers high humidity (50% and more). If the air at home or in the office is dry, spray the plant several times a day; in winter, with the heating devices on, install a humidifier in the room, but not next to the plant, so as not to cause frostbite of the leaves with cold steam.
Soil and transplant. Pakhira has one basic requirement for the quality of the soil - it must be well-drained, capable of quickly passing water. The plant can tolerate both acidic and alkaline substrates, but prefers soil pH in the range of 6.0-7.5. For planting pakhira, ready-made universal slightly acidic peat soil for indoor plants is well suited, adding about ¼ of the volume of perlite to it will provide a quick drain of water. Add this mixture at the next transfer to the bottom of the pot and on the sides of the coma.
After purchasing pakhira, an urgent transplant is not required, the plant can stay in this pot for at least another year. Pakhira prefers a little cramped pots, and the next transplant is carried out only after good development of the roots of the previous volume, preferably in the spring, every few years.
When transplanting, a new pot should be only 2-4 cm wider in diameter than the previous one (from 12 cm - 14 cm, from 21 cm - 25 cm). All transplants are carried out only by the method of careful transshipment, without replacing the soil, which greatly injures the roots. Pour some fresh soil with perlite on the bottom of a new container, carefully remove the lump from the pot and place in the center. Fill up, lightly tamping, the soil on the sides, pour abundantly, and after the soil settles, add the missing amount.
In order not to provoke waterlogging, do the transfer on the eve of watering, without waiting for the substrate to dry completely so that it does not crumble during transplantation.
Top dressing carried out only during the period of active growth, from spring to autumn. In the winter months, when the pakhira is resting, all feeding must be canceled. Use ready-made universal complex fertilizers with microelements in a half dosage. You can divide the monthly dose (already reduced by 2 times from the instructions) by the approximate number of waterings per month and add this part with each watering. Pre-spill the soil with about half the volume of water, and then apply top dressing with the rest of the water.
Pruning and shaping. Plants with stems already woven into a braid and docked from above are most often sold for sale, they can only form a crown. Pruning in the spring, shortening shoots that are too elongated, they can be used for reproduction. The shoots that appear on the trunk are usually removed. If you can root the cuttings and then plant them together, then you can weave the pigtail yourself. Only very young plants with flexible stems are suitable for weaving. Do not try to braid the entire braid in one go, fix the intermediate stages with a rope, and after a while you can continue braiding.
Reproduction... Pakhira is propagated by rooting cuttings or air layers. These procedures are carried out according to standard techniques. Cuttings about 15 cm long, with 3-5 well-developed leaves, it is better to root in a soil consisting of a mixture of peat / coconut substrate and perlite / coarse sand in a 1: 1 ratio, always in a greenhouse with high air humidity and using root formers. The roots appear in about 4-6 weeks, and if you plant the cuttings in transparent disposable cups (100 ml is enough), the roots will be clearly visible through their walls.
For sowing, it is advisable to use fresh seeds recently extracted from the fruit.
Plant large pakhira seeds in individual small pots or cups in peat soil mixed with perlite or sand in a ratio of 5: 3. When planting, place the seed at a depth of about 1 cm so that the light spot ("eye") is directed to the side, water and cover with foil or glass on top. For germination, the seeds must be provided with a temperature of + 25 ... + 27 ° C and bright diffused light, water as the top layer dries.
Bloom the pakhirs are very impressive. Fragrant flowers with a diameter of about 10-15 cm, with white-yellow curled petals, with a large number of bright pink protruding stamens, collected in large paniculate inflorescences. But, unfortunately, the plant almost never blooms at home.
Virulence... Pakhira is not considered a poisonous plant. Its seeds are used for food.
Pests. In dry air, pakhira is attacked by ticks, its leaves are covered with small whitish dots - places where ticks are punctured. Increase the humidity in the room, arrange a regularly warm shower (combine with watering time to avoid waterlogging, or carefully protect the soil with a film from getting wet), if necessary, treat with acaricides. Pakhira can be affected by mealybugs (white formations are visible on the leaves, in their axils, on the stems, similar to pieces of cotton wool) and scale insects (similar to droplets of wax on leaves and stems), as well as aphids. If pests are found, treat with systemic insecticides (Aktrara, Confidor).
Possible problems, diseases of pachira aquatic
- Yellowing of leaves often caused by dry indoor air. Another reason is lack of nutrients. Correct conditions and care.
- Whitish color of leaves- the plant may be heavily affected by spider mites. Plaque on the underside of the leaves, similar to dusting with flour, a thin cobweb, discolored small dots are a sign of tick damage (see Pests).
- White dry spots on the leaves may cause sunburn if the plant is in direct sunlight.
- Brown and crispy leaves- a sign of poor watering. Water rarely, but abundantly, so that the entire lump is well moistened.
- Dropped green leaves that have lost their turgor are usually a sign of too much water. Reduce watering frequency.
- Brown spots on the leaves may be a sign of anthracnose. Keep pakhira leaves dry, remove damaged ones, treat with a broad spectrum fungicide.
- Large white fleecy spots on the leaves- fungal disease, powdery mildew. Often occurs in hot summer conditions or when there is a lack of light in winter in a warm room. Treat with fungicides (Skor, Topaz).
- Leaf fall may be caused by too cold conditions.
- Withering, yellowing and loss of leaves often a consequence of root disease, root rot. The reason is excessive watering, when the soil is constantly damp. The disease is difficult to treat, but it is easy to prevent it by observing the watering regime, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. If there are signs of root disease, do not rush to transplant, change the soil. You will have a better chance of a gradual recovery if you just reduce the watering.
Pachira (Pachira) is a plant of the baobab family originally from Mexico, its second name is Guiana chestnut or saba nut. From Latin Pachira translates as "plump", because it has a solid hollow trunk expanding towards the roots, capable of retaining moisture. The top of the trunk is narrow, framed by a crown of smooth green leaves.
The size of the plant varies depending on the conditions of stay, so - at home, pakhira develops slowly and its maximum length is no more than three meters.
In its natural environment, pakhira can reach a height of up to 20 meters, and also produces flowers with multiple long stamens, after which greenish edible fruits ripen. In a home environment, the plant does not bloom or bear fruit, but its life expectancy with proper care can be about ten years.
Pakhira is grown not only as an ornamental plant. Its bark is used in folk medicine to relieve sore throat and stomach pain. The fruits of this plant are used in cooking - they are fried, bread is baked from ground "nuts", and hot drinks are prepared. In addition, pakhira is a symbol of abundance in the home. It is believed that with the growth of this plant, prosperity and good luck come to the family.
| High growth rate. | |
| In a home environment, the plant does not bloom. | |
| The plant is easy to grow. |
| Perennial. |
Pakhira care at home. Briefly
Pakhira at home is not particularly difficult to care for. It is enough to maintain the following conditions of detention:
| Temperature regime | In autumn and winter not lower than 16 degrees Celsius, in summer - not higher than 23 degrees |
| Air humidity | Avoid dry air, maintain humidity at 60 percent |
| Lighting | Indirect sunlight, preferably located in the southern, south-western part of the room, while avoiding overheating. |
| Watering | In hot weather - 2-3 times a week with warm water. In winter - rare watering in order to prevent the surface layer of the soil from drying out. |
| Priming | A mixture of sod, leafy soil is used with the addition of sand in an equal ratio. It is important to provide good drainage. |
| Top dressing and fertilization | From early spring to the end of autumn, it is advisable to feed the tree with complex mineral fertilizer once every three weeks. |
| Transfer | It is carried out annually for a young plant, for an old one - every 2 years. |
| Reproduction of pakhira | It is carried out by seed method in the spring, or by cuttings closer to autumn. |
| Growing features | It is worth paying special attention to the degree of soil moisture, while avoiding an excess of moisture in the plant. In addition, it is important to control the degree of illumination of the flower. The pakhira, being in the shadows, fades and slows down in development. |
Pakhira care at home. In detail
The pakhira flower will add a touch of beauty and comfort to your home. Home care does not present any particular difficulties, but nevertheless, some of the nuances are worth considering in more detail.
Pakhira bloom
Pakhira flowers are very beautiful, have a delicate vanilla aroma, but they can be observed only in natural conditions or in a greenhouse. As a rule, active flowering occurs during the period from early summer to late autumn. The inflorescences are a collection of many long, bright yellow or red stamens surrounded by pinkish, greenish or creamy petals.
The diameter of the flowers is 10-15 centimeters, 30-35 cm long. Later, fruits are formed from the inflorescences, which, after ripening, split into two halves, revealing up to 20 rounded “nuts” inside.
Temperature regime
In hot weather, pakhira should be protected from overheating and prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. The maximum allowable temperature in the room is 23-25 degrees. In winter, drafts should not be allowed, as well as temperatures below 16 degrees.
In addition, the plant should not be near heating appliances and radiators.
Spraying
Due to the fact that pakhira is a tropical plant, it is very important to maintain the natural level of moisture for the flower. If the air in the room is too dry, you can correct the situation by regularly spraying the leaves. When spraying, moisture should not come into contact with the crown growth source to avoid decay. It should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature.
Lighting
But at the same time, prolonged exposure to the sun has a detrimental effect on the leaves, spots-"burns" may appear, therefore the best option would be to provide the plant with diffused soft light, as well as some shading of the flower with too intense sunlight.
Watering
In the hot season, homemade pakhira needs regular watering. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the degree of soil moisture. If the surface of the soil is wet, watering should be postponed until the top layer dries a little. In winter, watering is rarely carried out and only when the soil of the plant has dried out about 3-4 cm from the surface. Otherwise, the plant will start to rot.
Water should be watered with standing water or rainwater, without using pallet irrigation.
Pachira pot
The pot, in this case, is selected depending on the size of the flower and its root system. So, a young plant with a minimum number of roots does not need a deep container, a rather small but wide container with a diameter of at least 29 cm.
A pot that is too small will inhibit the growth of pakhira. And in too deep - part of the land will not be used by the plant, which can lead to a change in the properties of the soil, its further acidification.
Soil for pakhira
Successful cultivation of pakhira requires a "breathing" soil that is not too rich in nutrients. A mixture of sod and leafy soil is suitable, with an admixture of sand, brick chips in equal proportions. Including pakhira favorable for the growth and universal land for palms, dracaena. The main condition is that the soil must become permeable, with good drainage.
Top dressing and fertilization
Feeding pakhira is best done in the spring and summer months, with a frequency of every two weeks. As fertilizers, you can use either specialized mineral additives for non-flowering decorative deciduous plants, or feed the tree by spraying the leaves with antistress drugs.
In the first case, 50 percent of the recommended concentration of the additive for decorative leafy varieties should be used. When spraying leaves, it is better to use the dosage indicated by the manufacturers.
Pachira transplant
A pakhir flower at home will decorate any home for a long time with its appearance, if it is transplanted in time and thereby prolong the period of active growth. It is better to transplant a young flower every spring. Perennial specimens are transplanted every two years, also in the spring months. In both cases, the transplant is carried out with a complete replacement of the soil and the whole process is as follows:
- the plant is removed, while the root system is slightly straightened;
- the roots are placed in a container with water for no more than 15 minutes;
- the remnants of the earth are removed from the roots, while dead, damaged and decaying areas are also removed;
- shorten the remaining healthy roots if desired;
- we fill the pot with a mixture for transplanting in the form of a slide;
- on top we place the root system of the pakhira, evenly distributing the processes over the entire volume of the pot;
- fill in the remaining volume of the flower container.
How to trim pakhira
Pakhira at home does not need to be circumcised. This is only necessary if the plant has lost its decorative appearance. In this case, formative pruning is done in early spring. In places of cut, the flower branches and the crown becomes more lush, spherical. Simply dead, dried leaves and stems can be removed at any time.
Reproduction of pakhira
Reproduction of this plant is possible in two ways - vegetative and seed.
Propagation of pakhira by cuttings
The vegetative way of propagation of pakhira is propagation by cuttings. For this purpose, a cutting up to 10 cm in size is taken, having a formed structure with two leaf nodes.
Rooting is carried out as follows:
- the lower edges of the cuttings are treated with a rooting activator
- a soil mixture is compiled from identical parts of sifted sand, charcoal, leaf humus and half of sphagnum
- the resulting mixture is sterilized
- cuttings are planted in containers, or plastic cups with a mandatory hole for drainage
- the lower parts of the cuttings are immersed in the soil by 30 mm, followed by watering.
The rooting period is about 3 weeks. Under favorable conditions, namely: diffused light, temperature 20-22 degrees, humidity level about 80 percent - this process can be carried out in water.
For this, the treated cuttings are placed in a container with water and, after the roots appear, they are transplanted into the soil mixture. This is a rather stressful moment for a young pakhira, therefore, during such a period, the flower must be provided with optimal conditions for germination.
Growing pakhira from seeds
Propagation by seeds is carried out in the following way: pre-soaked and squeezed sphagnum is placed in a sealed bag in a layer of 2-3 cm. On top we put a flower seed, which is covered with another layer of moss on top. Since the germination rate of pakhira seeds is approximately 30-40 percent, it is worth preparing 4-5 such packages in order to guarantee the desired result.
Conditions for germination of pakhira seeds:
- air temperature 25 degrees
- diffused light
- wet and not wet sphagnum moss
- indoor humidity - 80 percent
- airing several times a day.
Sprouted specimens, together with moss, are planted in the soil and the first week of germination for the plant a high level of air humidity is maintained. In a month, in the presence of active development, you can carry out the first feeding of pakhira.
Diseases and pests
Types of pakhira home with photos and names
Pakhira aquatica
Belongs to the mallow family, has smooth green leaves on oblong petioles and inflorescences 30 cm long, reminiscent of a panicle. The flower gives a vanilla aroma and later a greenish fruit is formed from the ovary, inside which there are up to 20 edible nuts, covered with a dense skin. These seeds, as well as the leaves and bark of the tree, are used in cooking and in the treatment of certain diseases.
The rarest plant species. A distinctive feature is the unusually round structure of the leaves. The shoots of this flower in the wild spread along the ground, so at home it can be grown in hanging pots and flowerpots.
It differs from the most popular water pakhira, only in the original pattern on the leaves in the form of many silvery stripes-threads.
The pakhira genus includes 24 species, three of which have edible fruits, and among them there is the Malabar chestnut and aquatic pakhira, which, in fact, are grown when nursing at home.
General information
The pachira plant in modern times belongs to the bombax family or also called the baobab plant. But in the taxonomy of England, this genus belongs to the Malvaceae family.
The plant is characterized by slow growth, but it can reach up to 3 meters in height if it is provided with favorable conditions. In shape, it is a typical bottle tree, which is stored with water in the cavity between the wood and the crown.
It is possible to grow indoor pakhira as a single plant, but it should be borne in mind that the formation of side shoots and tillering occurs only a few years later, when the plant reaches the ceiling.
On the shelves in flower shops, it is quite common to find a pakhira with several trunks, which are intertwined with each other. Often, the cultivation of these plants is a very time-consuming process, and not one plant, but several at once, for this reason, they are quite expensive on sale.
Judge for yourself, young plants of successful seedlings are gradually beginning to intertwine and form a presentation, but all this does not happen in one year. Also, this plant is well used in the bonsai culture.
This plant is native to the tropics of South America. Popularly, this plant, for the shape of its leaves, receives several more names, such as Malabar or Guiana chestnut. It has a characteristic thickening of the lower part of the stem, the condition and size of which directly depends on the growing conditions. This thickening makes it possible to accumulate water, which the plant uses in the absence of watering, for this reason the pakhira normally tolerates the overdrying of an earthen coma, but at the same time it is very difficult to tolerate excessive watering.
When nursing at home, it grows rather slowly, but reaches up to 2.5-3 meters in height with a crown diameter of about 1.5 meters. Young specimens usually grow into one trunk, branching begins only when they reach 2 meters in height. The leaves of the plant are leathery, palmate-complex in shape with a dark green color.
Indoor flowering is very rare. But if the plant does bloom, white or yellowish flowers appear, collected in a large paniculate inflorescence, about 35 centimeters in length. Fruits, lignified, elongated-rounded, having an olive color, reach from 10 to 25 centimeters in length, contain round-shaped seeds that can be eaten raw or fried.
Pakhira home care
The plant must be provided with good lighting, otherwise the stem is pulled out and the pakhira loses its decorative effect. Prefers bright diffused lighting, although it can tolerate short-term exposure to direct sunlight. Feels great on western and eastern windows.
If the plant is located on a south-facing window, then it needs to be shaded in the hot midday hours. During the summer, the plant can be taken out into the garden by placing it in a place where it cannot be affected by wind, rain and direct sunlight.
If there were few bright days in the fall and winter, in the spring, with an increase in sunlight, the plant can get burned, so that this does not happen, the pakhira must be gradually accustomed to good lighting, it can be especially dangerous for specimens not accustomed to direct sunlight.
In the spring-summer period, the palm tree prefers a moderate temperature regime from 20 to 25 degrees. And in winter, the optimal temperature of the content will be the limit from 14 to 16 degrees, with this care the plant will not stretch. It is not recommended to place the tree near the central heating battery. It is also necessary to monitor the draft, especially in winter, from which the pakhira can get sick.
Pakhira watering and air humidity
Watering the pakhira plant must be carried out along the diameter of the pot, preventing water from entering the base of the trunks. In the spring and summer, moderate watering is observed, and the topsoil is allowed to dry before the next watering.
In the period from October to February, rare watering is carried out, preventing the earthen coma from drying out for a long time. Only warm and soft water is used for irrigation. With insufficient watering, the pakhira leaves hang and lose turgor, and with an excess of moisture, the stem can rot.
Air humidity is not particularly demanding. Feels good enough with dry air in the room, but responds gratefully to frequent spraying with a frequency of 1-2 times a day, with settled soft water, while it is necessary to ensure that too much moisture does not fall on the stem. Frequent waterlogging of the trunks can provoke their decay.
Soil for pakhira transplantation and fertilization
Young plants need an annual transplant in the spring, but already formed pakhirs need to be transplanted every two or three years. The container is not required deep, but wider than the previous one by 4-5 centimeters in diameter. Plants planted in deep dishes most often get sick and grow poorly, this is due to the not deep location of the pakhira roots.
The composition of the soil for growing a palm tree must be made up of leaf and sod land, as well as sand in equal quantities, adding charcoal and brick chips to it. You can also use a universal primer for palms and dracaena. Good drainage is a must.
From April to August, the plant needs feeding, once every 3-4 weeks, it is necessary to apply a complex mineral fertilizer in the dose recommended by the manufacturer. In autumn and winter, they do without feeding.
Pachira pruning
In the spring, pakhira can be trimmed by carefully cutting off the branches that stretch to the top. In those places where there were cuts, the crown of the pakhira becomes thick, usually they try to give it the shape of an oval or a ball.
Pakhira propagation by cuttings and seeds
The plant is easy enough to propagate by seeds, providing soil heating with a temperature of 25-27 degrees. Seed germination decreases during long-term storage, for this reason it is necessary to take only fresh seeds.
They are sown in a wide bowl, practically not sprinkled with soil, and sprayed with warm water. Then cover with a plastic bag or glass, periodically airing and wiping from the resulting water droplets. Seedlings appear within three weeks.
Pakhira can also be propagated by cuttings, which must be cut at the end of the summer period and always with a heel. Cuttings take root at high humidity in the warmth.
Possible difficulties
- Decay of roots and trunk occurs with improper or excessive watering, especially at low temperatures.
- Leaf edges or tips are brown this may be due to insufficient watering, cold drafts, or too dry air.
- The leaves are soft, curled brown at the edges , the reason may be the temperature regime, which is below normal. Perhaps it is warm during the daytime, and at night the temperature drops below normal.
- Light dry spots form on the leaves may be due to intense lighting or sunburn. It is necessary to provide the plant with shading from direct sunlight at the height of daylight hours, summer period.
- In low light, if you place the plant far from the window, the stem is pulled out, and the thickening practically disappears .
- Pakhira can be damaged by scabbard and spider mites .