How to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house inside so that it is beautiful, practical and environmentally friendly is not an easy question. Not all types of finishes are combined with wood - a material with a pronounced natural origin. When choosing, you need to focus on the design direction and texture of the walls. If this is a rustic style, then beams and imitation of logs will go, a smooth texture is more appropriate for a luxurious living room, new technologies - tension and suspended structures - fit into the modern interior.
The construction of the ceiling of a house made of wood has its own specifics. Due to the relatively light beam floor to which the ceiling elements are attached, the timber walls bear much less stress. A heat-insulating ball and a vapor barrier are laid between the beams, a rough ceiling is mounted under the insulation, and a half of the attic or upper floor is mounted on top.
Ceiling decoration from slats and beams
Draft ceiling - the basis for decor
The initial stage of finishing the ceiling in a wooden house involves the construction of a rough floor. For its manufacture, a bar is used, which is installed on the edge. By reducing the installation pitch, this method strengthens the entire ceiling structure.
With the help of nails, the cranial bars are fixed to the sides of the beams. They will be the basis for the surface of the rough ceiling. For covering, it is necessary to prepare boards by cutting them to the required size. Their length should be slightly less than the distance between the beams. Finished boards need to be laid out so that a perfectly even coating is obtained.
Before hemming the ceiling on wooden beams, you need to perform treatment with antiseptics that protect the wood from pests, the appearance of fungus, and mold.
Draft ceiling
The device and the choice of material for vapor barrier
In order to limit the penetration of steam from the room into the insulation, a vapor barrier ball is mounted. The lack of moisture prevents mold and mildew from growing in the wooden part of the ceiling.
There are different types of vapor barrier films:
- Polyethylene standard vapor barrier film. Serves to prevent the formation of condensation.
- Foil vapor barrier with improved insulating properties and heat reflective properties. This film is best used in high humidity conditions.
- The membrane film controls the amount of moist air exiting the room.
- Membrane film with variable vapor permeability. The higher the humidity in the room, the greater the insulation capacity.
Vapor barrier in the ceiling cake
The vapor barrier film is first rolled out on the surface, after which it is wrapped and its edges are fixed. The ends of the material should be overlapped. If the film rests against ceiling or other elements, it cannot be cut. In this case, bend and fastening are made.
Thermal insulation layer to save resources
It is imperative to insulate the ceilings in a wooden house. It has been proven that up to 30% of heat loss occurs precisely through the cracks in the ceilings. For this purpose, you can use different thermal insulation materials:
- Mineral wool. This versatile fiber material is made from mineral raw materials. Its advantage is that it does not burn.
- Ecowool. Insulation made of cellulose and other non-volatile substances. Does not rot, does not support combustion, has good insulating properties.
- Granular insulation. Its components are sawdust, antiseptic and glue. With good thermal insulation properties, it is inferior in terms of sound insulation.
- Styrofoam. Inexpensive and lightweight material that can be assembled quickly and easily. The disadvantage is that it supports combustion, mice often start in it, and over time, the foam can crumble.
- Expanded clay. It is made from clay. This porous material has high fire resistance and increased sound insulation.
Ceiling insulation
The heat-insulating ball is mounted on top of the vapor barrier film. Insulation should tightly fill all the space between the beams. To do this, the insulation in the slabs is cut, but not in size, but 2-4 cm more than the interblock distance. The mineral wool is laid end-to-end, and a small gap is left between the foam balls, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.
Methods for cladding ceilings for finishing
After carrying out work on the construction of the rough ceiling, vapor barrier and insulation, you can proceed to the cladding. An unequivocal answer to the question of which ceiling is better in a wooden house is difficult to give - there are a lot of finishing options. The final choice depends on the style of interior decoration of the house itself. The main types of ceilings are hemmed and suspended. But recently, there has been a tendency for the owners of wooden houses to tend to stretch types of ceilings made of film and fabric.
With the help of false and false ceilings, you can quickly, beautifully and reliably give the interior a finished look. Mostly wood is used for this purpose in a wooden house. But other materials also have a right to life.
The circuit is pretty simple. First, the frame is assembled, on which the coating parts are attached, which make up a solid pattern. The designs differ only in the presence of a suspension. The hemming option provides for the use of a frame that is rigidly attached to the rough slab.
Laminate ceiling
Sheathing with a board or clapboard - design options and installation technology
Before making a ceiling in a private house, please note that for its cladding in a wooden structure, it is better to choose a board, lining, wooden or MDF. Plastic panels in this case will be inappropriate. For an original design, you can choose a laminate, and a block house looks great in a log house.
The attractiveness of the choice of wood finishes
Advantages:
- Environmental friendliness. The panels, as well as the board on the ceiling in the house, are made of wood material without the use of resins and harmful phenol.
- Design. The color, texture and width of the cladding can be selected for each specific interior.
- Water resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, which makes it possible to install it in bathrooms, saunas, and kitchens.
- Easy care. To clean the lining, it is enough to wipe it with a damp cloth without using any cleaning agents.
- Functionality. All the necessary communications are easily placed inside the structure of such a ceiling.
Finishing option
DIY installation instructions
Technologically, the installation process practically does not differ and includes several stages:
- The last plank must be cut not only in length, but also in width, while not forgetting to leave gaps from the walls. In addition, it must be fixed by analogy with the first.
- Holes for spotlights can be made before or after installing the panels on the ceiling.
- Finishing work includes the installation of lamps and baseboards, the function of which is to embellish the interior of the room, as well as hide the seams between the ceiling and the wall. If desired, the material can be coated with a colorless varnish.
Lining ceiling
Plywood sheathing - an economical choice
The question: what can be used to make ceilings in a house can be solved by using ordinary or waterproof plywood as a filing material.
Plywood looks decent
Advantages of plywood for ceiling decoration
This product has several advantages:
- Naturalness. Natural components of plywood create a favorable indoor climate, filling it with the aroma of wood.
- Low weight. The sheets will not create stress on the base.
- Moisture resistance. Treated plywood works well in high humidity conditions.
- Price. Plywood ceilings in a wooden house are an order of magnitude lower than most other options.
- Strength. Due to the multi-layer, plywood has a greater degree of strength.
Plywood is based on wood
Of the obvious shortcomings, only two can be distinguished: the material supports combustion and is afraid of water.
Two technologies for installing plywood sheathing
Installation of plywood on the ceiling in a wooden house is done on a wooden lathing made of bars. For cladding, sheets with a thickness of 4-8 mm are used. Thin sheets can be installed on glue, thicker ones are nailed to the frame or screwed with self-tapping screws.
FK plywood is considered the most environmentally friendly. It has practically no harmful substances, and carbamide glue serves as a binder between the layers. Consider both options for attaching plywood sheets to the base.
Mechanical installation:
- During the initial fixation, the slab is placed in the middle of the bar and fixed in one place.
- After that, the plywood is aligned with other bars and finally fixed.
- For installation, nails are used, the length of which is twice the thickness of the sheet.
- If self-tapping screws are used, holes must be drilled under them before screwing into the panel.
- Fasteners are carried out in increments of 15-25 cm, and in the middle of the sheet - 25-45 cm.In this case, you need to retreat from the edge by at least 1 cm.
- An expansion gap of 2-3 mm must be left between adjacent sheets, as well as at the walls.
View before finishing
Plywood gluing:
- Sheets are cut into 2-3 pieces
- Glue is applied to the plywood, which is leveled with a notched trowel.
- After that, the panels are fixed to the base and pressed firmly for 1 min.
- It is important not to forget about the expansion gap.
- For gluing to a wooden base, you can use PVA glue.
Plywood ceiling
Before hemming the ceiling in a private house, plywood must be kept indoors for at least two days. A jigsaw, circular hand saw, or fine-toothed hacksaw is suitable for cutting plywood.
Finishing - installation of the plinth between the ceiling and the wall, as well as hiding the gaps between the sheets with the help of wooden slats, if they are very noticeable. The ceiling can be varnished.
Ceiling "pie" scheme
Practical and quick plasterboard cladding
Plasterboard ceilings are most relevant when it is necessary to level very uneven surfaces. There are two main ways of fixing drywall in a wooden house: on a wooden base made of bars and on a traditional metal frame.
Plasterboard in a house from a bar
Features of mounting on a wooden frame
A wooden frame for drywall is more suitable if the task is to make a simple single-level ceiling. At the same time, all kinds of flaws are perfectly hidden without losing the height of the room. But it must be remembered that only well-dried high quality wood can be used for such a frame.
Procedure:
- At the beginning of the work, you should determine the lowest point of the base, step back 5 cm from it and, using a level, draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.
- After that, along this horizontal in a circle, fix the slats and bars along the length of the room with a step of 80 cm.
- To them with a step of 50 cm, perpendicularly attach supporting strips, which will become the basis for drywall.
Metal carcass
Cladding technology on a metal frame
The metal frame for fastening drywall is more reliable. Its design includes guide profiles that hold the ceiling frame, and rack profiles, to which the plasterboard is mounted.
Installation procedure:
- By analogy with a wooden frame, the level of the ceiling is set and guide profiles are fixed along the perimeter using self-tapping screws or dowels.
- A guide profile is attached to them with a step of 40 cm.
- The whole structure is fastened with self-tapping screws.
- To increase rigidity, you need to use suspensions.
- If in the future it is planned to install a chandelier or plafond to illuminate the room, it is advisable to mount mortgages that will hold the lamp. For this purpose, several rack profiles must be attached to the frame in place of the lighting fixture.
Combination of drywall and wood
Installation of drywall sheets begins with the layout of the drywall according to the size of the room and its cutting. Plates are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws every 25 cm. At the same time, their heads are slightly recessed into the panel. A serpyanka mesh is glued to the joints between the sheets, after which a primer, putty and drywall painting are performed.
Modern design
Trendy and stylish beamed ceiling
Beamed ceilings in a private home help to decorate the interior with clear lines. This type of cladding can be carried out using beams made of natural wood or decorative beams, or, as they are also called, false beams. Both options have a number of advantages - ease of installation, natural origin, and attractive appearance.
A hint of country
At the initial stage of installation, a tracing cord is stretched, with the help of which the degree of horizontalness of the ceiling and frame is checked. The build quality of the finished ceiling depends on this.
As for the installation itself, in the case of wooden beams, everything is quite simple: they are nailed or screwed with long screws to an already finished base.
The combination of beams with clapboard
Raised beams are a little more complicated. First, a frame is made. For this, you can use a metal profile or a wooden beam. The second option simplifies the fastening of the false beam a little. Decorative beams can already be attached to the finished frame.
They are screwed to metal profiles with self-tapping screws, and to wooden beams they are nailed with finishing nails. If the timber does not adhere tightly to the ceiling, wedges can be placed under it, and fastening with longer self-tapping screws.
Raised beam ceiling
Modern stretch ceilings
The problem - the better to hem the ceiling in a private house, can be solved with the help of stretch ceilings. They come in film and fabric, look good, fit perfectly with a wooden interior, are easy to install and easy to clean. In addition, the film and fabric do not deform when shrinking at home. It is easy to hide communications above them, they are environmentally friendly, and in the version with the fabric there is a "breathing" effect.
Stretch ceiling in a wooden house
Practical foil decor
The installation of the tension foil should be started with the installation of the fastening profile. To do this, using a level, you need to apply markings around the entire perimeter of the room. The profile or baguette is glued along the marked line to the wall. When the glue hardens, it is recommended to additionally fix the fastener with self-tapping screws. Immediately, the marking of the locations of the lamps and communications is carried out.
Stretch ceiling system
Installation of a glossy film involves the use of a heat gun. At the initial stage, the canvas must be fixed in the corners of the room, after which the temperature in the room must be raised with a gun to 40-50º. After that, gradually moving along the entire material with a heat gun, place the edges of the film in a baguette and fix it securely. When the ceiling is already stretched, it needs time to cool and take shape, then cut off the extra corners.
Glossy surface makes the room look taller
A matte stretch ceiling is pulled manually and fixed in a baguette in the direction from the center of the walls to the corners. After that, excess material is removed. The final stage is the installation of the luminaires according to the markings carried out earlier.
Ceiling textiles
Textile ceilings for the elite
In contrast to PVC film, textiles have the ability to "breathe". In addition, the fabrics are very durable and retain their shape very well. Another advantage is the width of fabric panels, they are much wider than film competitors, which allows you to make a seamless covering in large rooms.
The installation process is similar to the installation method for matte film. The differences are that the fabric is initially fixed in the baguette in the center and further towards the corners every 50-60 cm, after which, to avoid wrinkles, it is evenly stretched over the edges. The corners in the profile are fixed last.
Regardless of whether you choose a wooden ceiling or a ceiling made of another material, the main thing is that it blends harmoniously with the interior and becomes a real decoration of your home.
The popularity of low-rise construction is growing every year. Most of the houses built belong to wooden buildings. When in a wooden house virtually all the walls are immediately ready for final finishing, the ceilings in such cases require additional work in order for the ceiling finish to be of high quality and beautiful.
It is possible to sheathe the ceiling both in multi-storey buildings and in wooden houses in different ways. You can choose which options are better only by comparing all the factors that directly affect the finishing of the ceiling.
These factors include:
- The ratio of the level of natural lighting to the planned artificial;
- Future layout and design of the room;
- The expected degree of humidity in the room;
- The functional purpose of the room;
- Ceiling height in the room;
- The presence of a second floor;
- The presence of a ladder.
With all the variety of interior proposals, log ceilings can be designed in any direction. At the same time, it is possible to emphasize environmental friendliness and naturalness not only in a rustic style with the help of wood trim.
Interesting ideas for decorating a living room in a private house can be found in the article:
4 ways to make a ceiling in a wooden house
The arrangement of the ceiling covering requires a detailed study. It is always more profitable and more economical to make quality repairs in the long term, especially in a new house. You can correctly hem the ceiling, for this it is worth knowing the basic classification of ceiling structures.
Ceilings can be:
- Suspended;
- Hemming;
- Stretched;
- Combined.
The height of the rooms should be taken into account. To prevent the sheathing from concealing centimeters at low ceilings, you should avoid suspended ceiling systems that are attached to an additional frame.
Ceiling arrangement in a wooden country house
To correctly arrange the ceiling in a log house, you need to study in detail the device and the covering of the ceiling system. For this, it is important to have an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe design of the draft ceiling.
The ceiling system in timber structures consists of (in order from bottom to top):
- Interior decoration;
- Boards;
- Beams;
- Vapor barrier film;
- Thermal insulation material;
- Waterproofing agent;
- Wooden logs;
- Flooring or flooring of the next floor.
Several factors affect the device of ceilings in a log house: waterproofing, thermal insulation, as well as the functionality of the room above the ceiling. The last point is conditional, if the room above the ceiling is not used, then the flooring is not spread. If the ceiling on the outside is a roof, then instead of flooring, the roofing material will be the last layer of the structure.
The most suitable material for the ceiling in a wooden house
A large number of materials are suitable for the inner side of the ceiling. But there are also limitations. For example, it is not recommended to cover the ceiling inside with plastic material. Firstly, the natural atmosphere of the log house is lost, and secondly, the plastic can burn.
You can cover the ceiling:
- Natural wood material;
- Tensile structure with non-flammable PVC film;
- Plasterboard;
- Veneered panels;
The design of the ceiling should be consistent with the overall interior of the house. Therefore, materials are selected taking into account the wall decoration and floor design. If the task is to make the cladding with your own hands, then the structures are selected based on the complexity of the installation.
White can increase the space and raise the height of the room. Before painting, the entire plasterboard must be treated with putty, so that in the future it will be possible to change the color of the coating.
Wooden materials for the ceiling in the house
The most harmonious finish for the ceiling in a felling is cladding with natural wood. Wood unites the basic structures of the house and makes the interior complete and natural.
Wood cladding includes:
- Wooden lining (lining board);
- Wooden panels;
- Veneer panels and MDF boards.
A private house provides more opportunities for interior decoration of the ceiling. And the natural desire to make this finish from natural material is always welcome. And in order to protect the wood material from the possibility of fire, a protective solution is applied to it.
Plywood ceiling in a wooden modern house
Beautiful photos of ceiling decor with beams only confirm the popularity of wooden buildings. At the same time, it is not for nothing that modern trends are aimed at eco-friendly houses.
Correct thermal insulation of the ceiling
Both in the old house and in the new one, the question of additional insulation of the ceiling can be acute, even if the house was built with stove heating. The issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling in a log house is very extensive, therefore it must be considered in detail and in detail.
There are such methods of insulation of the ceiling surface:
- Outer;
- From the inside.
Each of the methods will be most effective in certain conditions and with certain insulation materials. For example, laying vapor-proof materials is used for the outdoor method, and vapor-permeable materials for the indoor one.
The thermal insulation structure also depends on the way the ceiling is insulated.
Conditional thermal insulation scheme:
- Floor beams;
- Suitable insulation;
- Vapor barrier film;
- Lathing.
Insulation is chosen taking into account many factors. To fill the insulation tightly and without voids, you can use ecowool. The filing of such material will be quick.
I advise you to fill the ceiling with polyurethane foam in the absence of rodents that eat this insulation. Each insulation material is special. And the time it takes to learn these features is worth it, because a warm house is a guarantee of comfort.
Wooden ceilings in interior design (video)
The construction of sustainable wooden houses is not only a tribute to fashion, but also an awareness of the benefits and value of natural materials. And if such houses are built with a careful study of all the details, taking into account the rules of eco-houses, then the maximum efficiency is expressed both in financial savings and a favorable internal microclimate in the house.
Examples of how to sheathe the ceiling in a wooden house inside (photo)
The structure of the ceiling in a wooden house is most often a kind of "pie" of two outer layers of cladding, fixed on the beams of the attic floor, between which one of the types of insulation is laid. Topics not less, in addition to this system, there are other ceiling designs.
How to make a ceiling in a wooden house correctly in order to avoid heat leakage from the premises and prevent cold air from entering from the attic? This question arises before every owner of such buildings. In addition, an equally important point is the interior decoration of the ceiling, since the appearance of the entire interior will depend on its appearance. Therefore, you need to consider whether the surface will be additionally sheathed with decorative material.
But first, you need to consider in detail the basic structure, its installation, as well as all the materials necessary for it.
Attic floor and ceiling construction
Any wooden structure is covered with beams, which are the basis for covering the ceiling and floor of the attic or the second floor of the building. There are three main ceiling designs - hemmed, panel and floor.
False ceiling
The scheme of the hemmed structure is as follows:
1 - hemmed ceiling boards;
2 - floor beam;
3 - knurled sheathing;
4 - insulation material;
5 - vapor barrier film.
- It is most convenient to carry out installation, starting with fixing the vapor barrier film on the floor beams from the side of the premises. It is stretched and nailed to the beams with staples using a stapler. The vapor barrier canvases overlap each other by 100 ÷ 150 mm and, after fixing on the beams, are glued together using waterproof construction tape.
The vapor barrier can also be laid after the bottom filing is completed, then the film will cover not only the boards fixed from the bottom, but also the floor beams. This is especially convenient if fine-grained expanded clay will be used as a heater. If this option is chosen for insulation flooring, then it is carried out from the side of the attic.
- On top of the film, ceiling boards are mounted. Often, instead of boards, particle boards (chipboard or better - OSB) or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm are used.
The filing is chosen depending on what kind of decorative ceiling covering should be fixed on top of it. It should be noted that when choosing a decorative finish in the form of a wooden lining, it is also used for hemming the ceiling, without preliminary installation of sheet material or boards.
- Further, the work is carried out from the side of the attic, but before carrying out them, you need to take care of safety. Since it is in no case possible to step on the filing boards, you need to lay a temporary boardwalk perpendicular to the floor beams and you can walk only on it during work, periodically shifting it to the required distance.
- Between the floor beams, insulation is laid or poured onto a vapor barrier film. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
- If a roll insulation made in mats or backfill is chosen, then it is recommended to also cover it from above with a waterproofing film, which can be used as dense polyethylene or roofing material. It is fixed with brackets to the floor beams.
- On top of the insulation and waterproofing, rolling sheathing is laid, which will serve as the floor of the attic.
Another way of installing all the components is to carry out the entire process from the attic, but it is not only uncomfortable, but also extremely dangerous, since To If this method of work is chosen, then a temporary boardwalk of durable thick boards that can withstand the weight of the master must also be laid.
Deck ceiling
A false ceiling differs from a hemmed ceiling when installing the floor beams of a room. If the rooms are small, no more than 2500 mm wide, and each of them will overlap separately, then such a ceiling design is quite suitable for its device.
- In this case, the ceiling boards are fixed on the load-bearing walls of the building or on a bar nailed to the walls along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 120 ÷ 150 mm from their top.
- Planks for a flat ceiling must be chosen thick enough - at least 50 mm, since insulation and parts that form the attic floor will be mounted on them.
It should be borne in mind that if the boards will be installed on a timber, then it is recommended to lay it on brackets driven into the wall, made of reinforcing rods, and additionally fix it with nails or self-tapping screws.
It is advisable to choose a lining for the flooring, which is connected using special grooves.
- Further, from the side of the attic, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier.
- Insulating material is laid on top of the film, which is closed with a waterproofing film, fixed to the walls with brackets.
- Then, on another row of the fixed timber or on the load-bearing walls, the boardwalk is laid - the attic floor.
Panel ceiling
This ceiling consists of individual panels that are combined into one structure. Most often, panels made on the floor are lifted and stacked on load-bearing beams, and then connected to each other.
Each of the panels consists of the following elements:
- A box or shield made of two beams and planks.
The beam is installed as a lag, at such a distance from each other that the internal distance between them is 600 mm. This width is considered optimal, since most of the insulation made in mats have it.
- Then a vapor barrier film is laid in the resulting box.
- Insulation is laid on top of it, which is covered with waterproofing on top. It is fixed to the side bars.
In this form, the panel rises onto the floor beams. If the finished blocks are made of a small size, then it will be easy to raise them to a height, and there it will already be combined into an integral structure with an upper plank sheathing.
- When fastening individual panels from the side of the beams, an insulating material should be laid between them to close the "bridges" of cold penetration.
It should be noted that some craftsmen prefer to assemble panels at a height, immediately along the entire length or width of the room, since it is not possible to lift it entirely due to the rather large weight.
Do you want to know more about the ceiling construction?
Thermal insulation materials for ceiling insulation
It is very important to choose the right insulation material, since not only the warmth in the house, but also the safety of the residents will depend on this. If the wood can be processed by yourself impregnated fire retardants, then, when choosing a heater, you need to immediately pay attention to the marking according to its flammability class, which should be placed on the package.
Criterias of choice
When purchasing insulation material, you need to focus on the following criteria:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Moderate density.
- Low hygroscopicity, i.e. the material should absorb moisture as little as possible.
- Minimum flammability, which is indicated on the package in letters and numbers:
- NG - non-combustible material;
- G 1 - low flammability;
- G 2 - moderate flammability;
- G 3 - medium flammability;
- G 4 - strong flammability.
- It is equally important to pay attention to the ability to smoke formation when the insulation is smoldering, as smoke can be as dangerous as fire. This parameter is designated from D1 to D3, respectively - low, medium and high smoke formation.
- Another parameter related to fire safety is flame spread. RP 1 ÷ RP4. The speed of propagation of fire is classified according to the same principle as the first two parameters - from low (1) to high (4).
- The ecological purity of the insulation - it should not immediately or over time release fumes that are dangerous to humans into the environment.
- Ease and speed of installation.
The durability of the material without losing its performance.
Soundproof properties - ability suppress external noises (for example, the sounds of heavy rain or hail knocking on the roof), keep the house quiet.
The table shows the main physical and technical parameters of the most used heaters:
| Materials (edit) | Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / m × ° С | Thickness in mm corresponding to R = 1.2 m² × ° C / W | Density kg / m³ | Working temperature, ° С | Vapor permeability Mg / (m × h × Pa) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane foam | 0,025 | 30 | 40 ÷ 60 | -100 to +150 | 0.04 ÷ 0.05 |
| 0,07 | 36 | 30 ÷ -45 | From - 50 to +75 | 0,14 | |
| Polyethylene foam | 0,045 | 56 | 35 | -60 to +90 | 0,1 |
| Styrofoam | 0.03 | 60 | 40 ÷ 125 | -50 to +75 | 0.23 |
| Stone wool | 0,047 | 56 | 35 ÷ 150 | -60 to +180 | 0.53 |
| Glass wool | 0,056 | 67 | 15 ÷ 100 | -60 to +480 | 0.53 |
It makes sense in the article to consider additional characteristics, the most popular of the heaters presented in the table.
Types of mineral wool
One of the most popular heaters, and I must say that deservedly, is mineral wool. Under this term, several materials are broken that are made from various natural raw materials, therefore, technical characteristics may vary somewhat:
Table of comparative characteristics of varieties of mineral wool.
| Parameter name | Stone wool | Slag | Glass wool |
|---|---|---|---|
| Limiting temperature of application, ° С | up to 1000 | up to 250-300 | from -60 to +450 |
| Average fiber diameter, μm | from 4 to 12 | from 4 to 12 | from 5 to 15 |
| Material hygroscopicity in 24 hours (no more)% | 0,95 | 1.9 | 1.7 |
| Taunt | No | Yes | Yes |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m-K) | 0,035-0,042 | 0,46-0,48 | 0,038 -0,046 |
| Sound absorption coefficient | from 0.75 to 95 | from 0.75 to 0.82 | from 0.8 to 92 |
| The presence of a binder,% | from 2.5 to 10 | from 2.5 to 10 | from 2.5 to 10 |
| Flammability of the material | NG - non-flammable | NG - non-flammable | NG - non-flammable |
| Release of harmful substances during combustion | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Heat capacity, J / kg * K | 1050 | 1000 | 1050 |
| Vibration resistance | No | No | No |
| Elasticity,% | 75 | there is no data | there is no data |
| Sintering temperature, ° С | 600 | 250-300 | 450-500 |
| Fiber length, mm | 16 | 16 | 15-50 |
Stone wool
Stone wool is made from rocks gabbro-basalt groups and marls. Such material has low thermal conductivity, therefore it perfectly retains heat inside the premises. The fibrous structure of the insulation, in principle, can withstand heating at 900 ÷ 1000 degrees, but at a temperature of 600 degrees, the material is sintered and loses its heat-insulating properties.
Stone (basalt) wool is the most convenient material to work with A very important quality for the installation of this type of cotton wool is the absence of prickly brittle fibers - the material is practically safe for the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract and eyes, for the skin.
This type of insulation can be called "breathable", so the air in the premises will not be heavy and stagnant.
Stone wool does not emit toxic substances, therefore it is safe for humans.
It is produced in various forms, convenient for installation work, and recently a material has appeared that has an additional foil coating, which helps to reflect heat rising to the ceiling into the room.
Glass wool
Glass wool is made from broken glass and sand, by melting them at high temperatures, reaching 1500 degrees. As a result of this technological process, fibers with a length of up to 50 mm and a thickness of 4 ÷ 15 microns are obtained, which make the material strong and elastic.
Glass wool - the performance is not bad, but when laying, increased precautions are required Installation carried out in accordance with all the rules will allow you to preserve the insulation without losing its qualities for many years. Glass wool is not susceptible to damage by fungal formations, they do not build rodent nests in it, it has low thermal conductivity and can withstand low and high temperatures.
The disadvantages of this type of mineral wool include the fact that its installation makes it difficult for the brittleness of fibers, which have rather sharp edges. Their fragments tend to penetrate the fabric of clothing, stick into the skin, enter the respiratory tract and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore, when starting the installation work, you need to protect yourself by wearing protective uniforms, which, after the completion of the warming process, must be packaged and disposed of.
Slag
This type of insulation is made from blast-furnace slag, but is capable of withstanding temperatures reaching only up to 300 degrees without loss of quality, while glass and stone wool can withstand higher heating. When this temperature is exceeded, the slag fibers are sintered, respectively, losing their insulation functions.
Slag wool - the quality is lower, and during installation, personal protective equipment for hands, eyes, and respiratory organs is also required Slag wool is hygroscopic, and when the humidity in the environment rises, it easily absorbs it, which leads to a decrease in insulation and sound insulation qualities.
The installation of slag wool must also be carried out extremely carefully, since its fibers are also splits and can harm the skin and mucous membranes. Therefore, prepare suitable work clothing and protective equipment for the eyes and respiratory tract before installation.
Styrofoam types
Many owners prefer to save money, and that is why they insulate their houses with expanded polystyrene known to all (more often it is called polystyrene). However, before purchasing it, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the characteristics, since the material has an abundance of significant drawbacks.
There are two types of expanded polystyrene - extruded and regular. Although they are, in principle, made from the same starting polymer, they have slightly different characteristics.
Plain foam
Ordinary foamed polystyrene (foam) has a rather porous structure, since it consists mainly of air, and only 2 ÷ 3% falls on the polymer component.
The positive qualities of this type of insulation include:
- Foam plastic has low thermal conductivity, the coefficient of which is only 0.03-0.04 W / m × ° C.
- The material has good sound insulation properties.
- Polyfoam almost does not absorb moisture, which means it is protected from the occurrence of fungus and other forms of microbiological life.
- The insulation is easy to install, as it is easy to process, fit, and fasten. In addition, the material is produced in large panels that can immediately cover a large area of the insulated surface.
- Polyfoam is not afraid of the effects of gypsum and lime, cement and salts, as well as water-based coloring compositions.
- The negative qualities of regular and extruded foam are quite similar, so they can be combined.
Extruded polystyrene foam
The extruded foam is marked with the letters EPPS and XPS. It has a denser and more homogeneous structure, therefore its thermal conductivity is slightly higher than that of expanded polystyrene. The advantages of this material include the following qualities:
- Very low hygroscopicity, even bordering on hydrophobicity.
- Quite low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.05 ÷ 0.07 W / m × ° C.
- Ease of installation on interfloor ceilings due to its low weight. In addition, most of the manufactured panels have a special locking part, which makes it possible to easily combine them into a single coating with seams blocked from cold bridges.
- Resistance to deformation - the material is so strong that it is used for underground insulation of foundations or laid under a concrete screed.
- Resistant to inorganic chemicals.
- Durability in operation with proper installation and subsequent lining of insulation.
- If the extruded polystyrene foam has received good external protection, then it is non-toxic, so how does it not decompose and does not emit harmful substances.
The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene inherent in both types include:
- Sufficiently high flammability of the material. Both types are marked G4 or G 3. Often there is no marking on the packaging that gives information about its characteristics, and it is recommended to immediately refuse to buy such a material - it is possible that it has not undergone appropriate processing and may ignite from a lower heat than the manufactured one in the factory.
- The material does not like high temperatures - already at + 75 - 80 ° WITH the beginning of thermal deformation is not excluded.
- When ignited, expanded polystyrene begins to melt, acquires fluidity, thereby spreading fire to neighboring materials. This is especially dangerous when installing it on the ceiling.
- The smoke of burning foam is extremely dangerous not only for health, but also for human life, as it contains highly toxic substances that can cause extensive chemical burns of the respiratory system, lead to damage to the central nervous system.
- After a certain time, low-quality polystyrene foam itself begins to decompose, emitting harmful toxic substances that can penetrate the decorative cladding and even through the brickwork of the walls.
- Expanded polystyrene is extremely unstable when exposed to ultraviolet rays, so it cannot be kept in the open sun for a long time or without external finishing.
- This insulation dissolves on contact with organic compounds such as ethyl alcohol, turpentine, gasoline, acetone and others.
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is made from clay of fusible rocks - it is molded and fired at very high temperatures, more than 1000 degrees. The main advantage of this insulation is its environmental friendliness, since no foreign impurities are used in its production.
One of the most popular heaters is expanded clay. Expanded clay is used to insulate different parts of the house, including the ceiling. It is often used in combination with other insulation materials to enhance the heat preservation effect and protect living quarters from external noise.
Expanded clay is produced in different fractions - it can be granules of 20 ÷ 40, 10 ÷ 20 mm in size, finer gravel or even sand. Rejected granules, which cracked during firing, are usually ground into sand.
In addition to environmental friendliness, expanded clay has other positive qualities that can be indispensable for insulating a ceiling in a wooden house:
Its complete incombustibility will make the insulation safe, low thermal conductivity and porous structure will create reliable protection against cold and external noise penetration into the house. Although expanded clay is somewhat hygroscopic, it will not absorb moisture unless exposed to spilled water. This means that even high atmospheric humidity will not be able to reduce its thermal insulation qualities.
Due to the same qualities, the material is durable, its service life is practically unlimited. And one more important advantage - insects will never settle in this material.
The porous structure makes the insulation light in weight - it is easy to lift it to the attic floor. In addition, it is extremely easy to install - you just need to sprinkle it on the prepared surface and distribute it evenly over it. The preparation of the overlap for backfill is also simple - it is covered with a vapor barrier film or well coated with clay or lime mortar. When the solution is dry, you can start backfilling expanded clay.
If the winter temperatures of the region where the insulated building is located are very low, then mineral wool mats can be additionally laid on the expanded clay poured between the ceiling beams.
Video: how to insulate the ceiling on your own
After completing the installation of the ceiling, and reliably insulating it, you can proceed to the decorative design of the very front surface of the ceiling.
Ceiling decoration
A wooden ceiling can be decorated with a wide variety of materials. The finishing process facilitates the pliability of the wood - any brackets for installing panels or drywall can be fixed on it without any problems, as well as shingles for applying, for example, a clay layer, and then plaster.
Clapboard sheathing
Some home owners prefer to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard in a complex with walls. Such cladding can be made of natural wood, or the same from polymers or composites - PVC, laminated panels based on fiberboard, etc.
The ceiling cladding should not be too heavy, therefore, if a wooden lining is chosen, then a thickness of no more than 10 ÷ 15 mm, intended specifically for the ceiling. It is recommended to cover the panels before installation, and after installation - with water-based varnish or water-based paint.
The plastic lining itself is lightweight, and is designed for installation on the ceiling, so you only have to choose the color of the material.
Laminated panels are also lightweight and will not create problems during installation. They are produced with various patterns that can imitate the textured pattern of wood or stone.
Lining made of laminated fiberboard (MDF) - The assembly of these materials takes place, in principle, according to the same technology. The only question to be solved is how the finishing material will be mounted: directly on the ceiling boards or on the fixed crate.
The latter option is usually chosen in cases where the goal is set - additionally or to level its surface.
- The lathing can also be mounted in different ways - it is screwed directly to the ceiling surface or lowered by 100 ÷ 150 mm, fixing guides made of beams or metal profiles to the suspensions for fixing drywall.
Parallel lathing guides are fixed with a step of 500 ÷ 600 mm. After completing their installation, proceed to the installation of the lining.
- On the wooden lathing, the finish is fixed with the help of special clamps, which are put on the lining spikes, and then attached to the guides with studs or thin self-tapping screws.
- Installation of lining panels begins from the wall, and it is very important to set the first one as evenly as possible, since both the fit and the appearance of the entire resulting coating depend on it.
- If not a timber is used for the lathing, but a metal profile, then the panels are attached to it using self-tapping screws screwed through the clamps or directly through the lining spike.
After finishing the walls and ceilings, at the junction of the finishing materials, which will give the entire cladding completeness.
Sheathing with sheet material
Plasterboard and plywood (or OSB) can be attributed to the sheet material that enhances the surface of the ceiling. They, like the lining, can be fixed to the lathing or directly to the hemmed ceiling.
Both plywood and drywall are mounted for additional finishing:
- Plywood is first putty at the joints - for this, a special wood putty is selected (if for painting, then it is better -) - and let it dry. Then primed and coated with water-based paint or varnish.
Sometimes, for decorative purposes, real or false beams are mounted below the plywood ceiling. For them, light, well-dried wood or hollow polymer elements are selected.
Decorative plastic hollow "bars" for false beams - Drywall after fixing also spattered at the joints and in the places where the screws are screwed in, but for this, a gypsum-based mixture is used. Then the seams are cleaned, the surface is primed and painted, pasted over with ordinary or liquid wallpaper.
The use of these materials in a suspended structure allows you to make two- and even three-tiered, and not only with regular rectangular details, , but also with smooth curved shapes.
Video: how a wooden ceiling is sheathed with plasterboard
Facing ceiling tiles
- Decorated with a wooden ceiling and polystyrene foam tiles, which are glued to a special polymer glue applied along the edges pointwise. This type of tiles is very lightweight, and they easily stick to a flat ceiling.
Installation of plastic tiles on the surface of a plywood ceiling Plates are produced in a variety of ways - with a smooth white surface, with a relief pattern or applied to a texture that imitates a particular material (wood or finishing stone), and can also have a relief that repeats the ceiling stucco molding.
Video, finishing the ceiling with expanded polystyrene tiles
- In addition, ceiling tiles are made of PVC - they are also mounted on polymer glue. This finish is also lightweight and easy to install.
- Wooden finishing panels are quite expensive. But if they are the ones who are able to transform the interior, then it is worth installing them, especially since options with a variety of embossed patterns and shades are on sale. Wooden slabs are fixed with self-tapping screws, the head of which is recessed into the thickness of the material, and the holes are then sealed with masking chops, matched to the color.
Wooden decorative panels give the ceiling an exceptionally "rich" look Today, there are no special problems with the acquisition of any vending material for finishing the ceiling of a wooden house. It is important to compose correctly sketch of the interior that I would like to receive, indicate on it where and what kind of finishing material will be located. Then, it remains to visit a specialized store, inquire about the assortment and pick up everything, relying on a personally drawn up project. After that, you can proceed to, which will allow you to hide small flaws made during the installation of the ceiling structure itself.
Today, wooden houses have gained particular popularity, this is due to their high environmental friendliness. And during the construction of this house, sooner or later the question may arise: what kind of materials is suitable for finishing ceilings? Currently, this issue is completely understandable and this is due to a large type of finishing building materials that can be used for cladding wooden ceilings. In these modern conditions of a wide variety of finishing building materials, when finishing the ceiling in wooden houses, there will be no special difficulties. Although, log cabins can be left in their original form, with lumber and, home owners prefer to finish them with modern building materials.
Ceiling decoration in a wooden house
Rack ceiling in a private house When choosing a tree, it is most important to give preference to traditional standard species: poplar, elm, aspen, this will save on purchasing building material.
Before installing the slatted ceilings, make sure that the wood and special fire-resistant compounds, and also, in the case of a poor-quality slat, carry out its preliminary grinding. The slats are attached to with nails and screws, or when installing wooden beams in the grooves of all guides. The slatted ceiling is being processed.
Alfrey ceiling decoration in the house
Alfrey painting Painting ceilings made of wood or alfrey finish are currently practically not used, experts do not advise neglecting this method of decorating a wooden ceiling. Using this finishing method, you can radically change the appearance of the house at a low cost. And it is not necessary to paint on the entire area of the ceiling - you can simply apply a drawing on insignificant areas to transform the room.
When repairing ceilings in a wooden house, you can also decorate with alfrey-type finishes.
Modern methods of finishing wooden ceilings
Over the past decade, popularity has grown, and in this regard, it is difficult to imagine now modern renovation without finishing of this type. The characteristic advantages of a suspended ceiling in a house will justify all the funds that you will spend on its installation and installation.
Advantages of stretch ceilings in a private house:
Stretch ceiling in a frame house - When compared with either a plastered surface, suspended ceilings have a perfectly flat external texture;
- The use of a suspended ceiling will make it possible to bring to life original design ideas, for example, multi-level ceilings or zoning of rooms;
- Creation of different textures is possible with the help of suspended ceilings. In wooden houses, the ideal option would be to create a suspended ceiling with a wood imitation;
- Resistant to various deformations and shrinkage of the log house;
The disadvantages of a suspended ceiling in a wooden house:
- The installation of the suspended ceiling is carried out only a couple of years after the end of the construction, which is also associated with a certain shrinkage of the log house, in which they can be done immediately;
- This ceiling is not always able to fit into the overall style of the room.
Wooden lining on the ceiling
In order to preserve the ideal appearance of the structure, different builders give their preference to building material for the ceiling in a wooden house.
Lacquered lining on the ceiling Among the advantages of the lining are such indicators as:
- High level and;
- Perfect combination with the general style of the room;
- The ability to hide defects that arise during the construction of a building;
- When, the ceiling does not need preliminary processing, and there is also no need for grinding and leveling the entire surface;
- To increase the service life of the lining, it is necessary to process it with modern special ones;
Cons of wooden lining for the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands:
- Increased fire hazard, it can be reduced by treating the entire surface with special fireproof impregnations;
- Complex treatment is required to prevent its damage by fungi and various insects;
- Reduced resistance to changes in temperature and humidity, which leads to deformation.
Lining ceiling with square beams - Air permeability, allows you not to worry about condensation and provides a certain level of humidity in the room;
- Using drywall, you can hide all the cons of the ceiling;
- Various engineering communications can be hidden under the sheets.
The disadvantages of drywall include the impossibility of installing it on the wooden ceiling of a frame house, before installing it, you need to install a metal frame;
- Additional finishing required;
- Plasterboard structures can deform over time.
Preparatory measures for finishing the ceiling
Preparatory measures are quite versatile and involve a special entire surface. If the basis of the future structure is part of the roof that has been processed during roofing work, then you can proceed to the next stage of work.
How the ceiling is arranged in a frame house Due to the large distance between the wooden beams, it is rather difficult to install a metal frame on them, and this is due to the need to install a lathing, for the production of which a wooden beam with a cross section of 40 × 30 mm is used. The installation of the timber is carried out in a perpendicular direction relative to the wooden beams, in increments of 40 cm.
Before installing the lathing, it is necessary to insulate the load-bearing floor beams, while the vapor barrier and thermal insulation are attached to the beams using a construction stapler.
To ensure the reliability of the plasterboard ceiling, all wooden structures must be firmly fixed. The gap between the wall and the frame should be at least 10 mm, this provides compensation for various deformation processes of the entire floor. To avoid the not aesthetics of the resulting gaps, they must be covered with decorative skirting boards.
Ceiling insulation under plasterboard The process of installing drywall to the ceiling beams, you need to perform the following procedure:
- Purchase suspensions and self-tapping screws;
- Buy ceiling and guide profile;
- Purchase drywall and fasteners;
- Install a metal frame;
- Fasten the drywall to the metal frame.
Experts are confident that the installation of floor beams and their cross-section exclude excessive deflection of the structure. Although, a slight deflection of the structure can be easily compensated for simply by performing sheets
Fashionable and environmentally friendly wooden houses are especially in demand today: with the greatest variety of design proposals and finishing materials, log cabins are sheathed in any desired style. But finishing the ceiling of a wooden house with plasterboard significantly expands the possibilities and guarantees its beauty and durability.
The walls of wooden houses are often still left in their original form - logs and squared... Moreover, the obligatory finishing of the ceiling in a wooden house must certainly be in harmony with these wooden walls and the general architectural concept of the house.
Finishing materials
Plaster
You can make a light, classic, even and white ceiling in different ways, and there are now plenty of materials for such an effect. Previously, plastering was done: a special mesh made of shingles was stuffed onto a timber beam ceiling (these are thin wooden slats 3 mm thick).
Then plaster was applied to the resulting relief mesh, which adhered firmly to the shingles and did not lag behind, did not even crack.
This method is often used today, and in modern homes. But much more efficient and faster technologies have appeared, giving much better results than simple and time-consuming plastering.
Drywall
The highest quality and most advanced method is plasterboard ceiling sheathing
Advantages:
- This material is practically irreplaceable when it is necessary to make a ceiling in two or more levels, as well as to implement a beautiful but complex design project with intricate structures.
- The unique property of drywall when wet is pliable, like clay, and when dry, becomes absolutely durable - this is a real godsend for designers.
- The lathing is screwed onto the metal, which does not depend on the deformations of the base made of wood.
- With the correct observance of the technology, our ceiling will stand for many years and will only require periodic touch-up at our request.
Note!
It would be a mistake to screw drywall sheets directly to the rough ceiling or to the beams: plasterboard sheathing requires a special suspended metal structure, just like a suspended ceiling.
Wood
It is logical to finish the ceiling in a wooden house with wood - the most suitable material
The wood paneling of the ceilings is very natural for the interior of the house: it gives the room completeness and unites all its details.
The choice of specific materials for finishing is quite large and depends on the desired result. Among them are wooden "lining", panels made of solid wood or veneer. By the way, the latter outwardly do not differ at all from valuable wood species.
Lining
Lining - traditional decoration of ceilings in log cabins, time-tested
This is a processed board with a groove and tongue. Euro lining and its varieties are also available in different sizes, but with a different lock design - there are deeper grooves for connection than a simple lining.
Advantages:
- The most suitable option: the timber supporting structure and the clad ceiling are ideally combined.
- According to professionals, only it fully meets the requirements of strength, durability, sound insulation, heat transfer and aesthetics.
- A wooden house, finished with clapboard, has a valuable property: the sheathed surface "breathes", and the euro-lining on the back side has special ventilation grooves that easily remove condensation.
Veneered panels
Experts advise how to decorate the ceiling in a wooden house: with unique veneer panels.
- They cost a little more than lining, but are easy to install and cause well-deserved admiration.
- Panels covered with veneer imitate any valuable wood species.
- Their selection is rich in color and size.
- A house made of logs or beams with such a ceiling will always look significant and rich.
- A lock connection, like a lining, will allow us to independently and quickly sheathe the ceiling, even without having special skills.
Solid ceiling
Advantages:
- These expensive prestigious panels are distinguished by their beauty, high quality material, excellent characteristics (strength, durability).
- They are made from the finest deciduous trees, ideally suited to the construction requirements.
- Their installation is easy and fast enough - it is a simple hemming of the rough ceiling.
Embossed hemmed ceiling
Advantages:
- We attach the embossed hemmed ceiling directly to the foundations, and not to special structures.
This greatly simplifies the fastening process: chipped beams, which have a peculiar wood structure and are processed by hand, are mounted directly on the old ceiling. - The overall impression of such a ceiling is admiration, especially if we use wooden blocks of different species and different tones. This will create a unique ornament on the ceiling.
The beams, sanded on the machine and varnished, look beautiful.
Finishing options
The ceiling finishes are countless:
- A modern, comfortable and easy to clean plastic ceiling with an abundance of colors and textures will harmoniously fit into any style.
- You can simply paint the existing wooden ceiling with varnish or paint. First, you must carefully process it with sandpaper.
- If it is very difficult to grind the installed ones for finishing, we will simply sew them up, but we will attach an amazing imitation to the surface - lightweight false beams made of polyurethane foam. They are indistinguishable from the real ones.
The contrast of colors is extremely effective: against a bright light background - expressive dark beams
- An original and compromise solution: leave uncovered wooden beams around the perimeter of the plasterboard ceiling.
Plasterboard suspended ceilings can be decorated with decorative beams not only made of wood, but also of plastic - a high-quality imitation of logs.
- A stretch ceiling for a new log house, which inevitably shrinks during the year, which does not allow any finishing all this time, is certainly the best universal option.
Only a stretch ceiling will allow you to move into the house immediately after construction.
Numerous examples of the arrangement of original and comfortable ceilings in a wooden house, where everything is subordinated to a unique style and comfort, are widely presented in the video. The choice is up to the owners of wonderful wooden mansions!