How to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips? How to repair chips after cutting?
(10+)
Please tell me how to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips?
Question:
When making furniture, you have to saw chipboard. Chipboard does not like this very much - it crumbles. Chips are formed along the edge. How to cut chipboard without chips or repair chips?
Answer:
.But if you plan to use laminated chipboard completely, then this method is not suitable. It is necessary to cut so that there are no chips. Sawing so that there are no chips, without special equipment is quite difficult. A circular saw not only crumbles the edge, but can split the laminate half a meter along the slab. And any other tool gives an edge even worse.
Rumor has it that chipboard can be cut without chipping with a hacksaw for metal with a very fine tooth, or even a jigsaw with a file for metal with a very fine tooth. But it doesn't work for me.
I cut the chipboard, if I need to get a good edge, like this: I mark - I draw the lines along which the cut will go. I put a metal ruler along the line. I secure it with clamps. I cut through the laminate with a cutter along the lines of the intended cut. The cut is made quite deep and wide (slightly wider than a hacksaw or circular disc). I run the cutter along the iron ruler several times until I cut through the entire coating. I do it from both sides. It is very important to mark up correctly so that the markings on the top and the markings on the bottom coincide. After that, I already drink, usually hand hacksaw on wood. But I already got used to getting into the slot and circular.
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How to cut wood chipboard without chips at home, let's try to briefly figure it out. Currently, cabinet furniture is very popular, which is also made from chipboard. Laminated chipboard is a finely polished chipboard covered with a paper-resin film. The coating is durable and beautiful. In addition, laminated chipboard in comparison with solid wood cheap stuff, and due to the laminated coating, there is no need to paint or varnish the finished product.
The texture and color of the surface is very varied, but the main lack of wood chipboard in the fact that with inaccurate cutting, chips of the material are possible.
How to cut wood chipboard
Chipboard can be sawn hand saw with a fine tooth, jigsaw, circular saw. The place of the cut is glued masking tape and cut along the cutting line sharp knife... The knife cuts through the laminate and the top grain of the wood underneath. Further, when the saw passes, the chipboard will not chip. Finishing the end under the C-shaped overhead edging in the manufacture of furniture, this method is quite suitable. And under the melamine self-adhesive tape, it is better to use another method.
With an electric jigsaw or a circular saw, we saw the chipboard with a margin of 2-3 mm. from the cutting line. I sawed with a jigsaw along the guide. Any flat rail or rule can be used as a guide. In my case, fiberglass with a width of 150 mm. thickness 4 mm. As described above, chips formed on the chipboard. 
Next, set the guide exactly along the cutting line and hand milling cutter edge milling cutter remove these 2-3 mm. which we left in stock. The design of the beveler has a bearing on the shank equal to the diameter of the cutter itself, resulting in a perfectly flat edge to which self-adhesive melamine tape can be easily glued. Also, when cutting curvilinear cuts, you cannot do without the use of a router. With an electric jigsaw, we make a guide with the required radii and also go through the end face with an edge mill. The chip-free sawing method is also suitable for cutting laminated plywood and MDF.
Chipboard is a particle board, a common material. Currently, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.
The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, material homogeneity (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, fungi.
Chipboard can be sawed, planed, milled, hammered into nails or screws, drilled, cut out. From it you can make various parts of almost any shape. Application possible different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. Mostly the material is used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work, after all, this is a tree. Chipboard covers the walls, decorates residential and industrial premises... But with all the advantages, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will discover how to avoid this problem and share some tips.
Preparation for work
Conditions
It must be remembered that for quality work several conditions must be met.
- Install the hob correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard plate must be fixed so that it does not "slide out" during operation.
- The tool must be in good working order.
- Need to cut Chipboard plate only with a fine-toothed saw (this is important for coated boards, since a fine-toothed saw does not chip the material).
- It is best to stick masking tape on the cutting line.
- It is necessary to strictly follow safety precautions.
Compliance with all of the above conditions will guarantee good results from the work done.
Master Tips
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When you look at the price tags of furniture made of chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for designing furniture with your own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, both on the Internet and in “paper” magazines, can now be found for every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to neatly cut the chipboard.
Of the household tools, the most suitable for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even when cutting chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow strictly in a straight line, the saw wags; 2) chips are formed.
Are there any ways to solve these problems? There is. We will tell you about them today. By the way, all these tricks apply to cutting plywood.
Tip 1: Cut the chipboard on the floor with full support
Full support cutting means that when you push the saw to the end, the chipboard you cut will not fall off immediately.
If you want a very clean and crisp cut, Particleboard is better just cut on the floor. This will give you a 100% solid, stable base. The chipboard will not move even if you pile on top of it to complete the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, split or fall.
Place 5 × 10cm blocks under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. Bars will have to be sacrificed as the saw will go through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet is, the neater the cut will be.
Tip 2: Adjust the cutting depth
The correct cutting depth affects the quality of the cut.
Adjust the depth so that no more than half of the disc teeth protrude beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). It may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the prong cuts through the material rather than chopping it, and the saw also stabilizes so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make the saw marks on the chipboard cut less noticeable.
Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, raise the guide and watch from a close distance to set the correct cutting depth. By the way, at the same time it would be good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. Another point: the saw is designed in such a way that its stroke goes upwards, so chips are most often formed on that chipboard surface, which is facing up, and the cut from the side of the surface looking down is cleaner. Therefore, position the chipboard with a good face down when cutting.
Tip 3: Use a rigid, long, straight object as a guide for ripping.
As a guide for making a straight straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16 mm thick and about 30 cm wide, which was professionally cut in a specialized workshop. All that is needed is to tighten the ends with a clamp.
The main difficulty lies in positioning it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).
Add this value to your slice width, mark both edges of the chipboard and overlay a guide board. You will also need to factor in the thickness of the saw blade in your measurements.
It is usually best to have a metal base plate circular saw rested against the edge of the guide, so maximum stability of the saw during cutting is achieved.
Tip 4: check the guide before making the cut
This is a fine tuning, so to speak. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the cut part. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the rail and cut the board into the chipboard. Make sure the saw blade starts rotating in the air before it even touches the sheet to be cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the notch to make sure you've done everything and calculated correctly. Better, as they say, measure seven times ...
Tip 5: cut at a constant speed without stopping
Cut without stopping and support constant speed... If you stop, there will be a mark on the chipboard or plywood.
Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw and blade sharpness, and the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disc passes through the chipboard sheet with little resistance, as if it were melting wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, it means that you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Cutting too fast tears the chipboard fibers and leaves noticeable marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the blade to overheat and ignite the wood.
Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. This is why it is best to cut on the floor when you are making a long cut. You can crawl on your knees directly on the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, you do not need to stretch or bend.
Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.
Tip 6: Take a disc with big amount teeth
The more teeth there are on the disc, the clearer the cut will be. And, naturally, the disc must be sharp.
In principle, all discs from the picture above are capable of making a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the downside to the 140-tooth disc is that it dulls faster than the other three. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a 40 or 56 tooth blade. Better to keep one more in reserve. A 56-tooth disc is commonly used for cutting.
Tip 7: Cross-section is best done with duct tape
The cross-cut runs perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade can chip easily. it a big problem, the best solution which, buy a disc for cutting laminate, which we wrote about above. However, you can accomplish this task using other disks. To do this, stick on both sides of the cut line. duct tape... It will prevent chipping.
It must be removed carefully, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the chipboard laminate.
And one more piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material with front side, tape the saw platform with duct tape so that it does not scratch the surface of the sheet.
In general, I have already considered this in a review article, which was devoted to without the use of a panel saw.
Today I decided to dwell in more detail on the method available to most DIYers - this is sawing with a jigsaw, since this tool very widespread. In this lesson, I used the Skill 4581LA household jigsaw, by the way, a very good machine.
For the highest quality cut, the following conditions must be met
- the file should be fine-toothed (a file for metal is optimal)
- sawing is carried out at medium speed
in addition, for greater cleanliness of the cut, we will use such a modification as "scratch" sawing. Its essence lies in the fact that the laminate is scratched to the full depth and its pieces, pulled out by the saw teeth, do not go beyond the scratch boundary. For clarity, I will give a few photos.
You need to scratch along the ruler (with any sharp object - I used a perk drill, or you can even use a self-tapping screw.) To prevent the ruler from moving during the scratching process, I additionally fixed it with a clamp - you can use a couple.
We scratch to the full depth of the laminate, that is, until sawdust appears in the scratch. 
Then we take up the jigsaw, and drive it so that the file goes as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, while not going beyond this border. 
Thus, chips are formed only on the unnecessary side, without going beyond our marking line. 
Once again the same cut after its completion. It can be seen that the minimum chips still remain, although they may be on professional equipment... But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired. 
Of course, there are unique people who can cut with a jigsaw quite smoothly. I'm not one of those. Of course, the class of the instrument itself also plays a significant role. As a rule, with inexpensive tools, the file is not as stable as in professional models... Due to this, it is taken away to the side of sawing.
All in all, this way has the right to exist, but I would not recommend putting it on the stream.