The attractiveness of the flooring depends on whether irregularities and other defects remain on the base or not. If its surface is not perfectly smooth, then the floor covering will reflect all the flaws in the base: potholes, drops, roughness and other imperfections. Therefore, before laying the topcoat, it is necessary to make the base even and smooth. Today we will talk about the technology of leveling the concrete floor in the apartment.
Floor leveling methods
There are several ways to level the floor:
- using cement or concrete screed;
- using self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor);
- leveling the floor with plywood.
- Remove debris from the base.
- Fill cracks and crevices.
- Prime the surface. The primer helps the self-leveling compound adhere better to the surface and spread more evenly over the floor.
- Mix the solution according to the instructions, pouring the dry mixture into the water, and not vice versa, so that there are no lumps.
The solution retains its fluidity for half an hour. If the solution begins to harden, then it is no longer suitable for leveling the base, and water cannot be added to the finished mixture.
These include:
- Hydro level - helps to determine the unevenness of the base in large rooms. Measurement is made according to the water level in it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the working tube of the device is not filled with air, which will impair its operation. With the help of a hydro level, you can accurately measure with only small errors.
Laser level- accurate and easy to use. The error is small, only 1-2mm / m. The laser level is harmful to the eyes, so wear protective goggles before using it.
Level- is used by construction professionals because this surveying instrument requires knowledge and skills in its use.
Today we talked about the technologies for leveling the floor in the apartment, about the devices and tools needed to measure the curvature of the floor. Which technology you use will depend on the conditions, on the flaws, irregularities of your base. We hope that a smooth and beautiful floor will delight you for a long time, attracting the attention of friends and acquaintances, causing their admiring glances.
If you are making major repairs, both in the room and throughout the apartment, then you probably cannot do without the floor leveling procedure. Leveling the floor is an integral part of a major overhaul, because the floor in your apartment is unlikely to be even, especially if the house was built a long time ago. It is also illogical to install new flooring without leveling the floor. That is why we want to dwell in more detail on the issue of floor leveling.
The content of the article:
Floor leveling methods
Leveling the floor is the very first repair procedure, of course, after all the preparatory steps. Therefore, it is necessary to level the floor before leveling the ceiling and walls. There are several ways to level the floor, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages, and we will describe them so that you can choose the leveling option that is most suitable for your room.So, today there are three ways to level the floor:
- Leveling with self-leveling floor;
- Leveling by building up the floor.
Leveling the floor with beacons
This leveling option received this name in view of the fact that for leveling, beacons are initially laid and fixed on the floor - metal slats, according to the level of which the screed is leveled. Leveling the floor with beacons is the most common leveling method; it is most often used to level the floor of large rooms: a hall, a bedroom and a kitchen. The advantage of this leveling method is a high-quality, durable and even surface, which can be achieved even with large irregularities in the floor surface. The disadvantage is that the screed can dry from 10 to 30 days, everything will depend on the temperature and humidity in the room, as well as on the screed layer. If you want to make repairs as quickly as possible, then this method is not particularly suitable for you.
Leveling the floor with beacons is the best leveling method for laying laminate and linoleum, since it is precisely for laying these flooring that a perfectly flat surface is needed.
Leveling the floor surface with a leveling mortar is the easiest and fastest way to level the floor. The essence of this leveling is that with the help of a rare special cement-based mortar, you fill the floor, thanks to the specific feature of such a mixture, it will spread evenly over the floor, which ultimately creates a flat surface. Unlike the previous method, leveling with a self-leveling floor occurs faster in time: both during the leveling process and in the drying time of the screed, since its layer is several times smaller than the screed layer when leveling the floor along the beacons.
It is worth noting that the self-leveling floor layer must be at least 3 millimeters. The maximum height of the self-leveling floor layer should not exceed 35 mm. Therefore, if the level of unevenness is very large, that is, the plane of the floor slab goes to one side, and from the upper level of the floor to the lower one is more than 35mm, then in this case this method is not suitable.
The indisputable advantage of leveling the floor with the help of a self-spreading mixture is speed, since it does not take much time. This is an excellent way to level out minor irregularities in the floor surface, as well as for pouring underfloor heating. In addition, this method is the cheapest, which makes it, in fact, the most optimal. The self-leveling floor has one drawback - it cannot be used with large unevenness in the floor.
The last way to level the floor is to build it up. The essence of this method is that wooden logs are mounted on the floor, with the help of which a flat plane is created, after which boards or plywood sheets are fixed on the logs.
This method of leveling the floor is best suited for the first floors of buildings, as well as for summer cottages and cottages. The advantage of this method is that when building up the floor, the empty space can be filled with heat-insulating material, which will allow the floor to be insulated. It is also a great option if you need to carry out any communications along the floor, for example, autonomous heating pipes. A method that is more painstaking even in comparison with alignment with beacons, but it will allow you to raise the floor level to the required height.
Leveling the floor when laying tiles
In addition to the listed leveling methods, mention should be made of leveling the floor when laying tiles. This method, in fact, is not a full-fledged method, which is why we did not mention it above, but it is impossible not to mention it. It is used for uneven floor surfaces, but not flat.
The essence of leveling the floor when laying tiles is that with a slight slope or unevenness of the floor surface, it can be leveled when laying the tiles by adding a larger amount of mortar to its base. To do this, you just need to find the lowest area of the floor and the highest, then you need to calculate how high the level of the tiles will need to be raised in a particular area of the floor in relation to the highest point.
Measuring the floor level and preparing for leveling
In order to choose a method for leveling the floor and calculate the required amount of material, you need to measure the floor level. In order to make a measurement, you need to dismantle the old floor covering, otherwise there will be no sense in the measurements. When the floor is ready, we check it for irregularities.It is worth noting that the floor can be uneven for two reasons: due to the unevenness of the floor slab, or if it was laid incorrectly (curved) during the construction of a house. Most often, both types of irregularities are found. That is, in most houses, the surface of the floor slab itself is uneven, and it is laid crookedly.
To measure the level of the floor, you need a long level, with which you need to check the level of all sections of the floor. First, check for irregularities on the plate itself, then its plane. Mark the highest point of the floor level and the lowest.
If the slope of the slab or its surface has slight irregularities, the maximum amplitude of the drops or slope of which does not exceed 35 mm, then we recommend leveling the floor with a self-leveling floor. If the irregularities are significant or the slab strongly "leaves" to one side, then the only way that will help solve the problem is alignment with the beacons. When you have determined to what height the floor level will be raised, check if this is possible, since as a result, the balcony or door to the room may not open, or it will be necessary to raise the radiator of the battery. Therefore, before taking any action to level the floor, think over and decide all the nuances.
In some cases, if the floor plane itself is even, but there are, say, irregularities in the joints of the floor slabs due to the fact that the seam is not sealed neatly, then the irregularities can be knocked down with a perforator and then this part can be smoothed with cement.
As a mixture for leveling the floor, you can use both ordinary cement, mixing it in the right proportions with sand, and special mixtures that are specifically designed for leveling floors.
How to level a concrete floor
How to align the floor with the beaconsBefore leveling the floor, it must be thoroughly swept, and then treated with a layer of primer. In order to level the floor along the beacons, we need metal perforated corners. Lighthouses are laid along the room. The first lighthouse is laid at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, the next - at a distance of 100 cm from each other. The last beacon should also be installed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall. To fix the beacons, we need a cement or plaster mortar.
So, lay the beacons along the room, adjust them to size if necessary. Then, hardly with "slap" movements, we apply the solution in parts, with a step of 20-25 cm. Beacons are placed on the solution and leveled. As soon as the lighthouses have grabbed a little, the voids between the floor and the lighthouses are also filled with mortar. When the beacons are leveled, we let them firmly fix and then proceed to leveling the floor.
To level the concrete floor, you need to prepare a cement-based mortar, it is necessary to dilute the mixture to the so-called sour cream thickness, keep in mind that the mixture should not be too thin, since it will be difficult to level it, and it will also take even longer to dry. It is also unnecessary to do too thick mixture, since it will be very difficult for you to smooth the surface of the screed - it will be loose.
We start leveling the floor from the far corner, moving towards the exit. We fill it from the first and second rows at the same time, since the first row is only 30 cm, and at the end we do the same with the last and penultimate sectors. The finished part of the mixture spreads over the sector, and is evenly distributed with a trowel in order to exclude the formation of voids inside the screed. After that, using the rule, placing it with an edge, leading along the beacons, we align the part of the sector filled with a solution. First, we move the rule towards ourselves, from side to side, and when you have achieved a flat surface, then the last time we carry out the rule along the lighthouses exactly. Continue leveling the concrete floor in the same way. It is important to note that each subsequent pouring should be done very carefully, since, due to the different consistency of the cement mortar, irregularities can form in the places of sagging, this must be monitored.
When the floor is leveled, let the screed dry, and we can proceed with further repair work. You can turn on the heater to help the floor dry faster in winter. In general, this procedure is best done in the summer, the screed will dry completely in a couple of days.
Leveling with self-leveling floor
Leveling the floor with a self-leveling mixture begins with cleaning its surface. When the concrete base is cleaned, you need to thoroughly prime the floor surface using a special primer used for self-leveling floors.
Then we dilute the self-leveling mixture in such proportions as indicated on the package. Despite the fact that the consistency of the mixture allows it to spread independently on the floor, it must be rolled with a needle roller in order to remove possible air bubbles inside the mixture. The height of the needles of this roller should be greater than the height of the leveling compound layer. The filled space must be carefully rolled with a roller in different directions. After that, let the floor dry, as a rule, it takes several hours.
Leveling with floor extensions
If you want to insulate the floor, or raise its level, then the best option is to build the floor using wooden logs, it is also called leveling the floor with plywood. The advantage of this method is obvious, since this is the only easy way to raise the level of the floor, in which you can insulate its base, as well as conduct communications inside it.
In order to level the floor using this method, you must first inspect its surface. If there are any gaps or holes, for example in corners, then they must be repaired. Then you need to prime the floor surface. After the primer is dry, proceed with laying the vapor barrier film, which must be laid with an allowance to the wall with a height equal to the height of the extended floor. The sheets of film must be glued together with adhesive tape. After that, proceed to laying the log.
To lay the log, you need to know the level of the floor deviation, and also determine to what height the floor will be raised. The lags can be attached both to the anchor and to special metal plates - the method of fastening is up to you. To fix the level of the logs and so that they do not bend, it is necessary to put wooden or plastic wedges under them, to which the logs are fixed with self-tapping screws. Lay the logs along the room, at a distance of 5 cm from the wall, with a step of 50 cm. Once the logs are laid, they must be secured to the floor.
The next stage of work is the laying of insulation in the sectors between the logs. Use glass wool sheets as insulation. Glass wool sheets must be cut to the size of the sectors, leaving a few extra centimeters of allowance so that they closely enter the sector. After that, either wooden boards or plywood are placed on top, fixing them on self-tapping screws.
In the first video, you can visually familiarize yourself with the floor leveling procedure using beacon leveling.
If you want to level the floor with a self-leveling mixture, then this method is disclosed in this video.
And finally, the third way to level the floor, by building it up. This method is somewhat different from the one proposed by us and is more suitable for leveling the balcony floor, but you can borrow some of the main points for yourself.
It is equally relevant for apartment owners in old buildings and for residents of new buildings. The former are looking for an answer because the base coating in their living quarters is in a deplorable state due to the already quite long service life (yes, perhaps, it has never been good, even in the years of its "youth"), but the latter need to know this by the reason is that, despite the use of new technologies, the quality of finishing even in newly commissioned buildings is still far from ideal. While modern floor coverings sometimes require an almost flat surface. How to create acceptable conditions for them? What to do? How to level the concrete floor and how best to do it? You will find the answer to all these questions in our review.
We evaluate the existing surface and select a new floor covering
It should be noted that the alignment procedure can sometimes be quite expensive and time-consuming. That is why, in order to reduce material and time costs, you need to be able to correctly assess the situation. That is, carefully examine the existing base and decide which floor covering will be used. As for the first. The base surface can be different. Sometimes it is in quite good condition, with the exception of some cracked places. Or there are only small protrusions and depressions on it. In such cases, you can get by with a little blood, leveling the floor locally, as they say, according to indications. If there are significant defects on the base coat, as well as huge differences in height, it will naturally have to be leveled from corner to corner. Now with regard to finishing materials. Some floor coverings are very demanding on the substrate. Take the same laminate. Even a slight drop in some five millimeters can nullify all the finishing work. A laminate laid on such a base can simply deform and crack at the seams in a year. While such minor defects are not terrible for linoleum. So it is precisely from the choice of the finishing floor covering and the very state of the base base itself that you need to build on, being in search of an answer to the question of how and with what to level the concrete floor.
Irregularities that require elimination
So which concrete floor should be leveled? It is imperative to put in order a foundation that has:
- Roughness, chips, various cracks.
- All kinds of protrusions or pits that are noticeable during visual inspection.
- Slope or differences in height.
Depending on the existing defects, the leveling method and the material required for the work are selected.
Alignment types
If the floor does not have any special differences in height, but has some defects such as cracks, then they are sealed using a self-made compound or epoxy concrete, while carrying out some preliminary work to prepare the base. Local protrusions and pits are sealed in the same way. Height differences are eliminated by dry screed, leveling along beacons or using a bulk compound.
Getting rid of cracks
Such defects can appear both on the old foundation, and on the recently filled one, if the stages or requirements of the technological process have been violated. Therefore, every master needs to know how to get rid of cracks on a concrete floor. So, you can't just cover them up from above. First, you need to carefully tap the entire surface of the crack, and in a very peculiar way - you need to drive the chisel into the defect as deep as possible with a hammer. Thanks to this procedure, firstly, you will be able to detect chips hidden under the defect, and secondly, create the necessary gap for the mixture. After the preparatory work has been carried out, you need to carefully remove all pieces of concrete, clean the cavities from dirt and dust, fill with water. After drying, the entire surface must be primed. The composition of Grund is ideal for these purposes. Then you need to mix cement with the M400 brand with water. The solution should have the consistency of liquid sour cream. And then you should add liquid glass or PVA glue to it. The amount of additional ingredient should be equal to the volume of the prepared mixture. Then you need to fill the cracks with the resulting solution, wait for it to dry and grind the surface. You can not widen very small cracks, but simply seal them with tile glue of any brand, without forgetting to prime them first.
Close up the pits
If the floor surface is sufficiently flat, then it is not necessary to complete the screed completely. It is enough just to get rid of the pits. To do this, their walls and bottom must be processed with a grinder to remove chips and fragile layers. After that, the pit must be cleaned of pieces of concrete, dirt and dust, filled with water, and primed after drying. At the bottom, you need to pour dry fine-grained crushed stone in a sufficiently thin layer, and then seal the defect with epoxy concrete. The domestic composition "Kleypol" is perfect for these purposes. We fill a hole with it so that the solution does not reach the top of a centimeter by two. After drying (after about an hour), compare the surface with a special concrete putty. Experts recommend paying attention to the Elakor-ED brand.
As for the bumps, it is enough to grind them with a grinder, clean, prime, and then level the surface using the same "Elakor".
Dry screed
How and how can a concrete floor be leveled if you have little time at your disposal and you don't really want to mess around with mortars? Make a dry screed. This procedure is quite simple, so almost any home craftsman can handle it. The principle is as follows. The base base is thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust. Then a waterproofing film is laid on it (you can use ordinary thick polyethylene). Then a dry leveling mixture is poured over the entire surface in a layer five centimeters thick. It can be made of expanded clay, granulate, quartz sand or even expanded polystyrene. And on top they are already laid on logs and fastened with self-tapping screws either plywood, or fiberboard sheets, or moisture-resistant drywall. But it is best to use a special sheet material called "Superfloor" for this purpose. After the dry screed, the finishing floor can be installed almost immediately. It is for home craftsmen that experts recommend first of all to consider this method, since you can level the concrete floor with your own hands using this method without any problems.
Beacon screed
Since it is almost impossible to level the floors at times using less costly methods, you will have to consider such a method as pouring a new floor using beacons. As for the financial side of the issue, it is not so terrible, but the time-consuming procedure will require significant. In addition, in this case, you need to have at least minimal skills in working with lighthouses and cement mortar. What should be done? First of all, clean and prime the substrate. Then carry out the markings, preferably using a laser level, and stretch between the walls in the direction from the window to the door, the guide lines for the beacons. And then install perforated guides on them on the floor, using a cement (gypsum) solution for fixing. The step between each beacon should not be more than one meter. After that, you need to prepare a mortar of M400 cement (the amount of water will be indicated on the package), pour it between the installed profiles and level it with the rule, moving backwards in the direction from the window to the door. Such a screed dries for a long time, in addition, it must be moistened with water for the first three days. However, it is this method that is quite budgetary and allows you to get a really even and durable coating. Therefore, if you have enough time and do not know, for example, how to level a concrete floor under a laminate, take this method into service.
As for the lighthouses, some masters leave them inside. However, experts recommend that you still get the profile, and seal the voids with tile glue. The budgetary, but therefore no less durable composition "Lux" is perfect for these purposes.
Self-leveling floor
If the difference in height is no more than five centimeters, and there are available funds, a leveling mixture for a concrete floor is perfect for arranging the base surface. It is quite expensive, but easy to work with, in addition, the alignment procedure does not take much time. As for the technology, you need to start, as always, with preparation. The base base needs to be cleaned and primed. Then you need to carry out the markup using a laser level, drawing lines on the walls along which the upper boundaries of the new floor will pass. After that, you need to mix the solution according to the instructions on the package. The best mixtures for leveling, according to experts, are self-leveling Ceresit CN 69 and Ceresit CN 68, Vetonit 3000, EK FT03 FINISH. Many masters also praise more budgetary domestic mixtures produced under the Prospector brand. So, we start leveling from the far corner, pouring the solution onto the floor and leveling the coating (according to the markings applied), first with the rule, and then with a special roller with needles.
How to level a concrete floor under a laminate
Laminate is perhaps the most capricious floor covering, requiring an almost perfectly flat base. What is the best way to level the concrete floor under it? By and large, in this case, any of the three methods described above will do. However, there is another option. You can try to level the concrete floor with plywood. Unlike the same tiles, the laminate does not require the use of mortar when laying, so the presence of wooden sheets under this coating will not affect the quality of the base base in any way. And the alignment method itself is quite simple and fast. The concrete base is cleaned of dirt, primed, after which sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid on it without any fasteners (10 mm thick will be enough), and according to the same principle as the laminate (so that the seams of the elements do not coincide, but are staggered) ... After that, another layer is laid, but so that its joints do not coincide with those of the lower layer. This plywood is already attached to the bottom sheets with self-tapping screws. After installation, you need to walk along the seams with a sander in order to finally level the subfloor.
A few words about the loggia
On the loggia, you can also use all the methods described above. However, many experts consider it very attractive to level the concrete floor in this room using the same plywood, but on logs. How do they determine their choice? The fact that thanks to this method, you can additionally insulate the floor of the loggia by laying the appropriate material between the logs. Let's say polystyrene, mineral wool. Or professional, but more expensive insulation "TechnoNIKOL".
... about the garage
It is quite understandable that nobody is laying laminate or parquet in this room. The floor here is usually made of concrete. The basic requirements for the base are that it is even. And naturally durable. How to level it It is best to do and then cover it with a special layer of hardener - the so-called topping - which will protect the surface from damage. The best compositions are the mixtures Caparol-Disbon, Neodur (Korodur), MasterTop (BASF) and domestic Herkulit and Reflor.
... and about ceramics
If you plan to lay ceramic tiles on concrete and at the same time the base itself is not particularly crooked, you can level the floor in the process by adding more or less tile adhesive under level control. True, this method is applicable only if the differences are no more than three centimeters. In addition, if you decide to resort to this method, you need to buy only high-quality, with improved characteristics, for example, designed for "Ceresit" is ideal for these purposes.
Conclusion
We tried to tell you in sufficient detail how and what is the best way to level the concrete floor in this or that case. In addition, they touched upon the issues of leveling technology, named the brands of the best materials used in this type of work. We hope that now you can easily find the right option for your particular case. After all, you already know as well as any professional how and how to level a concrete floor.
Leveling the floor- an obligatory stage in the course of renovation and finishing work, followed by the installation of the floor covering. Why Mandatory? The fact is that floors over time lose their original shape - they form bulges, cracks and cracks.
If you want to update the look of the room and lay, for example, laminate or carpet, this initially not so noticeable defect becomes a serious obstacle to the realization of the cherished goal. The only way out of this situation is alignment, which you can carry out on your own.
Floor leveling mixtures
Leveling compounds form a screed that has many advantages. First of all, these are:
- the ability to install any flooring (linoleum, tiles, parquet boards, etc.);
- perfect adhesion to the substrate;
- high strength;
- environmental friendliness;
- low abrasion;
- ease of installation;
- no shrinkage;
- unpretentiousness in subsequent care (there is no need for daily watering);
- set of fortress for several days.
Classification of mixtures
Leveling mixtures are divided into leveling and self-leveling. The first - you need to level it by hand. High viscosity values allow you to get a thick screed and equip slopes. The second - due to their high fluidity, they create a flat horizontal surface practically without any active human participation. By the way, they can be called in different ways: equalizers, self-leveling floors, self-leveling floors, self-leveling solutions - the imagination of the inhabitants knows no barriers.
Distinguish between self-leveling mixtures for the initial and final application. The difference is in the size of the factions. Solutions for primary application consist of large particles, which means that there is no need to talk about a smooth surface. Finishing mixtures include fines and provide an opportunity to obtain an even horizontal screed.
Conditions required for application
Not everyone knows that when working with leveling compounds, several important rules should be observed, on which the quality of the coating depends. First of all, you need to close the windows and doors. Air movement during work and during the next 24 hours above the floor surface should not be felt.
The temperature of the base, as well as the temperature in the room, should vary from +5 to +25 degrees. No more. As for the relative humidity, the maximum allowable mark is 90%.
Breeding rules
Pours warm water into the prepared container. Not hot - otherwise the mixture will quickly set and achieve a smooth surface will no longer work. Add the dry mixture in small portions, stir with a drill with a special nozzle operating at low speeds.
There should be as much water as indicated on the package. Self-activity is fraught and leads to foaming, poor hardening, delamination of the screed. Breeding should be started only after the final preparation of the base. Please note that the active participation of the assistant is a must. While you apply the solution, your handyman prepares a new batch.
Floor leveling methods
There are several types of alignment, the choice of one method or another depends on the time allotted for work, floor level differences, and the characteristics of the soundproofing device. So, let's take a look at the most popular alignment options.
- cement-sand screed- the easiest way to prepare a sub-floor. If the budget is limited, then you should give preference to a polymer-based screed (cement, sand, PVA). The screed is made along the beacons, after it hardens, a thin layer of glue or a self-leveling mixture is applied on top;
- dry screed- has recently become a more popular method of floor preparation. The basis is far from a new bulk principle. A dry floor screed has many advantages, among which, first of all, it is necessary to highlight the speed of installation, high thermal insulation properties, the possibility of laying cable, film electric heaters and low weight.
The laying technology does not present any difficulties, the only condition is to follow the sequence.
1. Flooring of a steam and moisture insulator (polyethylene film or glassine). It must be laid with an overlap (20 cm), along the edges the material rises by about 5-6 cm. To ensure sound insulation, gaps (10 mm) should be left along the perimeter of the walls, which are glued with a special tape.
2. We spread the free-flowing component (expanded clay, sand, fine-grained slag). The thickness of the backfill layer is about 4 cm, with significant irregularities - up to 6 cm.
3. Align the backfill. Then we spread chipboard, gypsum fiber board, waterproof plywood on the tamped surface. Sheets are attached with glue and self-tapping screws.
- Self-leveling floors- the optimal solution to the problem of preparing the rough surface. They are durable, easy to perform and will be a real salvation for those who decide to level the floor under the laminate or linoleum with their own hands. So, the features of the technology.
1. Clean the floor and degrease it with a cleaning agent, dismantle the skirting boards, close the cracks with bars.
2. Fill potholes with mortar and level.
3. Along the length of the room, in accordance with the length of the rule, draw lines and, along these marks, screw in the self-tapping screws in increments of 30 cm.
4. Using a laser level, determine the highest point on the base, flatten the thickness of the self-leveling floor to it and screw in the screws perpendicular to the marks made. For lighthouses, place alabaster next to each screw.
5. According to the instructions, stir the mixture with water and after the homogeneity test - boldly pour the solution onto an area of no more than 2 m2.
6. As a rule, level the mixture over the beacons. Roll over the surface with a needle roller.
Leveling the wood floor
The wooden floor quickly surrenders to the crushing power of time - it bends and loses its original shape. But even in the most difficult case, when the floor is drying up right before our eyes, you can find a way out - the correct method of leveling. Let's consider the options for eliminating defects in more detail.
1. Loop- a time consuming but effective way of leveling a plank floor. It is advisable if only varnishing is planned, without floor covering. Scraping is carried out manually or mechanically. In fairness, it should be noted that the manual method is less effective, therefore it is better to arm yourself with a cycling installation.
- preparing the room - covering the furniture with foil, removing the curtains, taking out unnecessary interior items;
- we examine the surface for the detection of nails, carpet buttons and other fasteners. If we find them, we either remove or sink the caps below the floor level;
- put on protective clothing (remember about gloves and headphones) and get to work;
- we begin to cycle from the corner, moving around the room with a snake. After the top layer is removed, we cover the holes with putty and take a break - we are waiting for its complete polymerization;
- we process hard-to-reach areas with a manual scraper;
- after completion of work, we remove dust and sawdust with an industrial vacuum cleaner. It remains to wipe the floor with a lint-free cloth dipped in white alcohol and apply varnish.
2. Leveling with self-leveling mixtures it becomes necessary if a covering is required to be laid on a warped, old floor.
- we prepare the surface again (we sink the hats, fix the spring boards with self-tapping screws). We sand the floor. If voids are found, fill them with acrylic-based putty;
- we apply a moisture-proof primer, which will ensure the necessary adhesion of wood and mortar;
- we clean the walls around the perimeter with insulating material. Do not forget about creating an expansion joint from expanded polystyrene;
- the water level determines the level of the future self-leveling floor. We install a wooden beam in the doorway;
- we attach a reinforced mesh to the floor with an overlap of 6 cm;
- according to the instructions, prepare the mixture, let it settle, mix. Pour the solution onto the mesh, remove the bubbles with a rubber roller and level the surface (as a rule, with a rubber spatula or mop);
- the drying time depends on the composition of the mixture. Information on this can be found on the packaging.
Leveling a wooden floor with a self-leveling compound will increase the level of the floor. This fact should be taken into account when carrying out construction activities.
3. Leveling the wooden floor with plywood guarantees an even sub-floor. The method is most justified when it is necessary to lay the laminate. Plywood is purchased with a thickness of 12 mm, class 4/4 and higher.
- install beacons (screws). Then we begin to lay logs 30 cm wide, cover the voids with a piece of plywood. We fix them with glue or self-tapping screws;
- preparing plywood sheets - we divide the standard sheet into 4 parts. Sawing must be done carefully - there should be no delamination or chips;
- we lay plywood with an offset to avoid crossing the seams at one point. We cut the sheets, paying due attention to the shape of the floor in the places of arches and ledges;
- we fasten the plywood with self-tapping screws with a countersunk head and countersink the fasteners.
Ready. If it was planned to level the wooden floor under the laminate, then you can start arranging the substrate, if under the linoleum - to sanding and varnishing.
Leveling the wooden floor: video
Leveling a concrete floor without the help of hired specialists is not so difficult if you approach it with "armed" certain knowledge. Let's figure out how you can complete this process yourself.
Why do you need to level the floors?
Concrete flooring can be seen today in commercial premises, industrial facilities and living rooms. It has a lot of useful characteristics, but they can be used only when the concrete bases are well leveled. The most common defects in concrete floors are the following:
- small "waves" called chilliness that appear after the rule;
- smooth repetitive changes in floor level - wave drops;
- rises (local) floor level - influxes.
With prolonged operation of poorly equipped concrete foundations, cracks are often formed on them, as well as caverns and lenses - lowering (local) floor level. Sometimes protruding pieces of crushed stone filler appear on its surface, which indicate the destruction of the coating. All voiced defects lead to unevenness on the floor, which can cause injury to a person, the impossibility of reliable installation of equipment used in everyday life and in the kitchen, furniture.
And from an aesthetic point of view, uneven flooring, you see, does not add beauty to the room. To avoid these inconveniences, do it yourself competently leveling the floor. Such a procedure, carried out with high quality, will also make it possible to achieve a high level of noise, hydro and thermal insulation of the floor covering. The leveling of the concrete base is carried out by arranging the screed, which can be done wet or dry.
In the first case, it is imperative to use a special leveling compound with the addition of water. With the dry method, dry mixtures are used for. The choice of the optimal technology for each particular case is based on the condition of the initial floor covering and the height differences present on the floor of the room. Usually cement-sand compositions, "dry" compositions and self-leveling mixtures are used for screeds. We will talk about them further.
Cement-sand composition - the classic leveling
A screed based on sand and cement is considered a classic and very effective way of giving the floor the desired "evenness". It is recommended for rooms where the difference in the level of the concrete base is five or more centimeters. The technology of cement-sand screed is characterized by certain difficulties and high labor intensity of the process.
But on the other hand, it can be done independently in any living room - in the bedroom, corridor, in the kitchen, and be confident in the strength and excellent reliability of the resulting coating. It is only important to remember that the thickness of the prepared mixture must be at least three centimeters. With a smaller thickness, the strength indicators of the completed screed will be unsatisfactory. We will tell you how to level a concrete floor using a mixture of sand, cement and water.
First you need to remove all dirt and accumulated dust from it, wipe off stains from oil solutions that were used when performing construction or repair work. Then a waterproofing material is laid on the floor - it can be anything. At this stage, it is important to glue the joints of the waterproofing well, and leave allowances near the walls. Further, using the level, beacons are installed. For their installation, metal profiles are used, fixed to the floor by means of gypsum hardening solutions.
Between the guides of the executed "frame" the distance is taken up to one meter, no more. At a greater distance, pouring the mixture and leveling it will be difficult. Sand-cement mixture is prepared from M-300 cement, ordinary sand and water. Now no one makes such a solution on their own. At times it is more convenient to buy dry ready-made mixtures and add water to them in the proportions recommended by the material manufacturer.
Stir the composition very carefully. This is best done with a construction mixer. The finished solution should not spread, but at the same time, on a flat surface, it must slightly blur. Please note - the mixture is applied after stirring for 60–90 minutes (otherwise it will simply harden). Moreover, it must be prepared immediately for the entire area of the room.
Pouring a cement-sand screed - we work carefully
The prepared solution is poured from the far corner of the room between the beacons. It is necessary to immediately level the composition after applying each individual portion, using the rule. We move it towards ourselves, and not away from ourselves. Also, the rule should be to "scatter" the mixture on the sides (some level it exclusively along the guides, which is wrong) in order to achieve a good compaction of the screed layer and fill the existing voids.
Professionals also advise to pierce the applied composition with a small diameter metal bar. This simple action will avoid the risk of air voids in the screed. If the mixture of sand and cement is made of great thickness, it is advisable to strengthen the screed with reinforcement from a convenient (available at hand) material. In addition, it is recommended to cut special seams in it (they are called shrinkage seams) every 250–300 cm. Long breaks when laying a cement-sand composition should be avoided.
If you hesitate, "cold seams" are guaranteed to appear on the surface. They will significantly reduce the strength characteristics of the finished layer. For this reason, do-it-yourself floor leveling should be done not alone, but with an assistant. Having laid all the cement-sand mortar, it is left for 24 hours, and then thoroughly moistened with a spray gun or paint roller. After 48-60 hours, you will need to check how well it has set.
After that, the screed is moistened again and a plastic wrap is placed on it. It protects the floor from rapid drying, which can lead to cracks. During the next 7–8 days, once a day, it is required to moisten the screed with water. And then the film is removed and the floor is left to dry naturally for another 1-2 weeks. On the completed screed in the kitchen or in another room, you can safely lay the floor covering that you have chosen. But first, make sure that the screed is made with good quality.
If everything was done correctly, the floor surface has a uniform gray color, and when tapped with a block of wood, it emits the same sound in all parts of the room. We hope we have explained quite clearly how to level a concrete floor using a wet mix of sand and cement. This technique can be used in all areas of the home, including in the kitchen and even outdoors (on open verandas, terraces). We add that the finished surface can be additionally sanded. It makes no sense to carry out such a procedure if the coating was done on the street. But for living rooms, it will not be superfluous.
Grinding is carried out with a special unit (machine), which quickly and efficiently smoothes out all minor irregularities.
Dry screed - how to level floors without water?
A more "clean" leveling of the floor with your own hands is carried out using mixtures consisting of granulate, quartz sand, expanded clay or expanded polystyrene, and fiberboard, chipboard, gypsum fiber moisture-resistant sheet materials or ordinary plywood. Such a screed additionally insulates and insulates the room, therefore it is used in the kitchen or living room in apartments of multi-storey buildings. It is not difficult to independently make such an alignment even for a person who is very far from building wisdom.
Advantages of dry screed:
- quick performance of work and the ability to lay the selected floor covering immediately after the end of the leveling operations;
- no need to use water to mix the solution;
- installation of engineering communications inside the screed is allowed;
- work can be performed without assistants, performing them gradually on small separate areas of the room.
In addition, a dry screed makes it possible not to worry about the need for additional arrangement of sound and heat insulation systems for the floor.
The scheme of how to level a concrete floor using this technology is as follows:
- the base is thoroughly cleaned;
- a waterproofing material is laid - a 50-micron polyethylene film (it is advisable to prime the surface before that);
- scatter the dry mixture over the film and distribute it evenly;
- plywood, sheets of gypsum fiber or chipboard are laid, fastening them together with glue and self-tapping screws;
- the resulting screed is primed and the excess film is removed (its protruding parts are cut off).
The work is done quickly enough. You may only have a problem with the fact that it is forbidden to move the sheets over the layer of the leveling dry material. This means that you need to put them in the planned place the first time.
Self-leveling floors - an affordable and convenient leveling method
If in your kitchen or in another room the difference in floor levels is relatively small - up to three centimeters, it is recommended to level them with special mixtures, which themselves diverge along the surface. Such formulations are very popular these days. They are made on the basis of cement, to which modifier additives are added, which increase the fluidity of the solution.
Such self-leveling coatings cannot be operated "naked" - without laying ceramic tiles, PVC materials, linoleum, cork or carpet on them. If you decide to use, for example, in the kitchen, be sure to finish them with the specified materials. Otherwise, they will actively absorb oils and various liquids.
How to level the floor with your own hands using a self-leveling compound? It's not difficult at all. Stick to this scheme:
- prepare the base - remove dirt from it, vacuum, seal up even the smallest holes and cracks;
- clean the surface with a primer (special primer);
- prepare a small portion of the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions (it becomes unusable within 15–20 minutes);
- Apply self-leveling mortar to the floor in strips 30-50 cm wide and spread with a trowel.
Now just wait until the mixture is completely solid (6 to 24 hours).