Shed roof insulation technology. Correct installation of the ceiling under a pitched roof: the best technological solutions Insulation of a pitched roof

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When choosing a simple structure for the roof of a residential, utility or any other object, as well as an extension to the main building, a lean-to one is the most advantageous. It is being erected quite simply, it is undemanding to the type of foundation due to its low load, and it will also easily fit into the estimate of any budget project. A do-it-yourself shed roof is erected step by step in the shortest possible time, even by one person, without the involvement of additional equipment or people. The design has increased functionality and reliability.

The most common area of ​​application of pitched roofs is baths and outbuildings.

In order to understand whether it is worth making a choice in favor of a pitched roof, it is worth assessing what advantages will be obtained and minimizing the influence of disadvantages. The advantages include the following criteria:

• Profitability in terms of financial costs not only for building materials, but also for strengthening the walls to increase their resistance to compressive and tensile stresses.
• The simplicity of design will allow even non-specialists to build roofs of this type and at the same time get the optimal terms of their operation, as well as the absence of any maintenance requirements.
• Possibility with panoramic views.
• Reduced windage of the roof in the presence of predominantly directed winds and choosing the correct location of the slope of the slope.
• High maintainability due to the simplicity of the structure of the rafter system and lathing.
• It is allowed to use any roofing materials when choosing the correct angles of inclination.

The do-it-yourself single-pitched roof constructed step by step also has a number of disadvantages: it does not withstand significant loads during heavy snowfalls, does not have a very aesthetic appearance, and also does not hold the roofing material in case of strong gusts of wind from the side opposite to the slope angle of the slope. In fact, for competent designers, these disadvantages are not so significant and, if necessary, they can be easily turned into advantages. So, for example, so that the roof does not break off, it is enough to plant trees on the site or build a building next to it higher. To improve the aesthetics of the perception of a pitched roof, it is enough to go for a trick and implement a project with multi-level slopes of the slopes on two opposite sides of the house.

Useful information! A pitched roof does not allow equipping an attic space. This fact must be taken into account when planning the roof.

Preparatory work

A do-it-yourself shed roof is erected step by step only after the preparatory work has been carried out. The service life of the structure completely depends on their thoughtfulness. First of all, this concerns the correct planning of the roof and the selection of materials.

How to make a pitched roof?

For a pitched roof, the angle of inclination is the main criterion for its reliability. On the one hand, the larger the angle, the more efficiently precipitation is removed, and on the other, it is the main element that must withstand gusts of wind. During severe winters with significant rainfall, a thick layer of ice and snow forms on the roof, which can create loads that exceed the permissible ones, as a result of which the roof can deform and break. That is, the angle of inclination of the slope according to this criterion should be based on the characteristics of the climate.

Attention! The angle of inclination of the roof should be directed towards the greatest wind flows in order to reduce the resistance of the structure to them.

Another factor affecting roof slope is the roofing material, which can vary in roughness or strength. Qualitatively, its applicability for the roof can be divided according to the angles of inclination:

• When the slope is tilted up to 10 0, it is allowed to use only roll materials that have a flat and relatively smooth surface. These include roofing material, shingles, etc.
• With a slope from 10 0 to 20 0, it is possible to use corrugated materials such as slate, metal profile or ondulin.
• When the slope is inclined 28 0 - 35 0, smooth metal roofing sheets are used, joined in a folded manner.
• Angles of inclination 25 0 -35 0 are suitable for laying metal or ceramic tiles.

Important information! Larger angles of inclination than 35 0 are not recommended due to increased resistance to air currents and deterioration of streamlining, which is fraught with tearing of the roofing material.

Device and structure of a pitched roof

The device of pitched roofs is quite simple and includes the following units:

• Rafter system. Designed to absorb the main load of the roof and distribute it evenly along the entire area of ​​the walls of the object. Usually it is made of wooden beams with a cross section of 50x100 mm, depending on the roof area and the number of supporting elements.
• Insulating layers. They are laid between the rafters and fixed to the lathing and sheathing from the inside of the building. Their role is to ensure maximum protection of the object and load-bearing structural elements from moisture or freezing.
• Sheathing. Designed to anchor the roofing material and provide sufficient load-bearing capacity to support its own weight and various expected loads. The material for its manufacture can be MDF panels, edged and unedged boards. The choice is made in accordance with the type of roofing material.
• Roofing material. Allows to provide excellent aesthetic properties of the roof, as well as protect it from precipitation.

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Types of roof supports

The support for the roof is selected based on the weight of the structure and the characteristics of the roofing material. There are the following types of supports:

• Forced. They are additional structural elements that are installed evenly along the length of the slope in the inner part of the roof.

• Hanging. The simplest fixing scheme, based on only two supports located above the walls of the building.

• Sliding. Fastening to the walls is carried out on a special structure supported by a Mauerlat (strapping).

Is it necessary to provide ventilation of the roof space?

In some structures, the requirements of the roofing material and the object being erected itself, due to the peculiarities of its operating conditions, create the need to ensure ventilation of the roof. A striking example is the bathhouse, where the temperature difference between the interior and the external environment is more than 100 ° C. The main goal is to get rid of the formation of condensation and deterioration of the main elements. For the roof, it is necessary to provide for a gap on the gables between the covering, the roof and the rafter system.

Drawing creation

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to measure the wall trim, if this has not been done earlier. After that, taking into account the specific features of the object, as well as the selected design parameters, the optimal parameters of the slope angle should be calculated.

The optimal distance between the rafters should be 1-1.5 m. The pitch of the lathing is selected based on the requirements for laying the roofing material. Taking into account all the data, a drawing is created, and then the amount of building materials that will need to be purchased is calculated. Additionally, it is recommended to make a stock of materials in the amount of 10-15% of the total.

List of required tools

Carrying out construction work will require the use of a number of tools that must be prepared in advance so as not to interrupt the installation. Therefore, before making the main structural elements and building a pitched roof, you need to prepare the following tools:

• screwdriver for a comfortable connection of structural elements;
• pencil or marker for marking;
• building level for adjusting the position of parts of the roof;
• stapler for fastening waterproofing;
• hammer for driving nails;
• saw for sawing rafters and battens to the required dimensions;
• tape measure for taking measurements;
• plumb line to control the vertical position.

Do-it-yourself shed roof step by step - description of the stages of work

After carrying out a number of preparatory work, you need to proceed with the installation. The installation steps are as follows: installation of rafters, laying of battens, flooring of insulating materials and the main roof. Each stage must be thought out in advance: all the necessary tools and some of the materials are raised to the roof for easy access to them. With this approach, there will be no downtime and delays, which will guarantee the completion of the work on time.

Installing the rafter system

The device of the shed roof rafter system is relatively simple and does not require experience in this type of work or special knowledge. However, it is important to follow the sequence of installation steps.

In accordance with the drawing, on the ground, we cut wooden beams 150x150 mm to the required dimensions before lifting them to the roof. Then, be sure to treat them with antiseptics and apply a protective layer. If this is not done, then insects or other pests may start in the wood, which will destroy the strength of the structure and will have to be replaced.

Important! All wooden beams and planks must be naturally dried and have a moisture level of no more than 10%. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the supporting structure with all the ensuing consequences.

On the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope, we install support posts, which are otherwise called pediment. At the same stage, additional supports should be installed, if they are provided for by the design. They are in most cases conventional spacers. The interval between them for the installation of tiles is more than 3 m, and for profile sheets - more than 6 m.

Attention! When installing a shed roof with your own hands, it is imperative to check the verticality of the racks, since even the minimum angle of their inclination can reduce the strength of the structure to a level below the minimum calculated, which will lead to unpredictable consequences.

We install the prepared beams on a wooden strapping or Mauerlat with fastening "in a paw", "in a bowl" or on steel pins. For the first two options, you will need to make the corresponding cuts of the Mauerlat and rafters at the points of their touch. To do this, mark the point of contact with a marker, and then saw off the corner with a saw to a depth of no more than 30% of the height of the rafter. Additionally, it is necessary to install special steel brackets to increase the strength of the rafters or anchor.

The installation interval of the rafters is determined by the weight of the roofing material. You should focus on the following values:

• for lightweight roll roofing materials, the optimal distance between the rafters is 1.5-3 m;
• for sheet materials and tiles, the interval should be 0.7-1 m.

Useful information! All rafters must be laid in one plane without distortions to ensure reliable contact with the battens.

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Laying insulating layers

Do-it-yourself installation of insulation during the installation of a pitched roof is mandatory step by step for those buildings that are planned to be operated in the winter, in order to increase their energy efficiency. To fix the thermal insulation from the side of the premises, you will have to cover the rafters with MDF boards or boards with a thickness of 10 mm butt. In some cases, it is allowed to lay plasterboard sheets with a vapor barrier film to protect it from condensation.

The vapor barrier layer is laid with an overlap at a distance of 15-20 cm with the obligatory gluing of the joint seams with special tape. In the places where they are adjacent to the extreme rafters, they are laid on a vertical surface to ensure maximum protection against moisture.

At the next stage, the insulation material is laid. Step by step, performing the installation of a shed roof with your own hands, it is recommended to use mineral wool materials, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene as insulation. An important point when laying them is to ensure tight contact with the rafters without the slightest gap. A slit with dimensions of 1 mm and a length of 10 cm is capable of providing heat loss of several kilowatts, depending on the ambient temperature.

Useful information! A pitched roof can be insulated with any heat-insulating material. The choice should be made based on its effectiveness, cost and ease of installation.

On top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay a waterproofing film. The way of its installation is similar to the installation of a vapor barrier. However, there is a significant nuance - the joining seams must necessarily fall on the rafters, and fastening is carried out on steel brackets using a construction stapler with a step of 10-15 cm.

1 - rafter; 2 - counter rail; 3 - waterproofing film; 4 - vertical crate; 5 - horizontal purlins; 7 - vapor barrier film; 8 - waterproofing seam.

Installation of battens and roofing material

When performing a step-by-step installation of a shed roof with your own hands under soft and roll roofing materials, the sheathing should be installed in the form of a continuous layer. In all other cases, boards are laid under the crate with an interval of 50-80 cm. The thickness of the boards should be more than 20 mm, and the width from 10 cm. Fastening is carried out on nails or screws to the rafter system. Then, wind boards are installed, which will serve as a guide when laying the roofing material in terms of leveling it. However, this does not mean that you do not need to control the laying of the row using a level. For convenience, two bars are stuffed from the two end parts of the slope at a distance of about 0.5 m from the wall and the thread is pulled over them. This will be the zero level at which you need to level the row.

The roofing material is laid according to the appropriate technology. Installation begins from one of the corners of the slope and the entire roof is laid in order. The fastening method is determined by the selected material.

Useful information! For rigid sheet materials, it is recommended to place fasteners at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner in order to prevent damage or deformation.

At the final stage, sheathing of the end parts of the roof is carried out at the slopes of the slope.

Single slope roofs are very advantageous in terms of heat retention, as the loft of this design provides less space for the movement of cold air masses.

A pitched roof really has this obvious advantage, but only on one condition: the correct performance of insulation work.

Previously, roofs with one slope were insulated with adobe concrete or cement-bonded slag. These two materials are not very beneficial in terms of heat retention.

Currently, combined materials are widely used on the basis of insulation boards, basalt mats, glass wool or fiberglass blocks. Such insulation has proven itself from the best side, moreover, it is economically very profitable.

Basic material requirements

High-quality insulation material must have some necessary qualities:

1. It should be lightweight so as not to exert significant stress on the roofing base. To determine the weight of the material when choosing it, first of all, you should pay attention to the density.

2. The insulation must be moisture resistant. If it allows moisture to pass through, it will become saturated with it over time, and the entire structure may collapse. In addition, when exposed to moisture, the material loses more than half of its technical characteristics and simply becomes ineffective.

3. It is necessary to take into account the coefficient of thermal conductivity: the indicator should be low - about about, about5 W per sq. meter.

4. You should choose environmentally friendly materials, especially when insulating the roof of residential buildings.

5. It is necessary to take into account such qualities as fire safety, flammability, self-extinguishing.

6. Insulation must be completed in such a way that it fits snugly to the surface.

7. A very important quality is resistance to temperature changes and sharp temperature fluctuations. The duration of the operational period largely depends on it.

8. The service life is determined by several factors, including the quality of the installation and the specific type of material.

• Fiberglass, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, extruded polystyrene foam, basalt wool are suitable for insulating a pitched roof.

They meet all the basic requirements for the quality of insulation.

• Sometimes natural materials are used: straw, linen insulation, seaweed, etc.

However, they do not differ in durability, in addition, some varieties are very expensive.

Insulation of a pitched roof

As you know, a pitched roof is the easiest to install, operate, and further maintain. It is based on a frame system based on wooden beams of a specific section, which are supported by a Mauerlat.

It is necessary to take care of roof insulation already at the stage of its installation. In this case, the insulation becomes an integral part of the roofing pie and reliably protects the interior from the penetration of cold in winter and overheating in hot weather. It also prevents condensation from forming during sudden changes in temperature and humidity levels.

Materials and tools

Required for work:

• insulation that meets the requirements;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• construction buttons, nails;
• tools (carpentry);
• adhesive tape.

Work order

As a rule, a step of about 60 cm is maintained between wooden rafters, since the standard width of insulation in mats or rolls is 61 cm. The purpose of the technological margin is to fit the web tightly into the free space between the beams and prevent the formation of gaps.

• First, a vapor barrier layer is fixed on the inside between the rafters. To do this, use construction buttons or brackets.
• The vapor barrier layers must be absolutely sealed. For this purpose, all joints must be glued with adhesive tape. From the inside, the vapor barrier layer is completely protected by any type of finish: fiberboard, clapboard, finishing panels, plasterboard.
• From the outside, the insulation material (mineral wool, fiberglass, etc.) is laid at least 15 cm thick. If the material needs to be cut, a special construction knife is used for this. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the material fit very tightly.
• The edges of the layer of thermal insulation material and the vertical surface of the outer part of the walls must match. To limit the insulation, a board is used: it must be nailed between the rafters. To protect the insulation on all sides, the top edge of the board should be flush with the rafters.

Features of insulation technology

If the base of the roof is reinforced concrete slabs (they are used, for example, when erecting a garage roof), the thermal insulation must be done from the outside. For this, foam is used, and a concrete screed is laid on top.

The technology requires preliminary implementation of the necessary preparatory work. Plates should be cleaned of dirt, dust, various sagging.

The joints located between the slabs are sealed with high strength polyurethane foam or caulk with fiberglass. The surface prepared in this way is covered with high-strength foam. The thermal insulation material is laid in two layers with an overlap. It is better to fix the insulation boards to each other with a construction film.

On top of the insulation layer, waterproofing is laid. An ordinary roofing felt or a roofing film is perfect for this, both in terms of quality characteristics and in terms of price. A concrete screed with special plastic additives or reinforcement is installed on the finished layer. In order to avoid further cracking of the coating, it is necessary to add special frost-resistant mortars to the concrete composition.

Internal insulation technology

In order to properly insulate the roof from the inside, it is necessary to lay three layers:

• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier.

Such a "pie" should be created both in the case when the base is reinforced concrete slabs, and in the presence of a timber beam structure.

To perform the hydro-barrier, a special material is used, which is laid over the rafter legs.

This is necessary when the height of the rafter leg is greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation.

If the thickness of the material for thermal insulation and the height of the rafter leg are equal, the film is laid on the top of the bars used to extend the rafters.

Installation of waterproofing is carried out across the slopes, with an overlap of 10 cm. There is at least a 50 mm gap between the roof and the waterproofing layer. For this purpose, bars with a cross section of 50 x 50 mm should be prepared in advance.

After unpacking the thermal insulation mats, they must be left for a while (15 to 25 minutes) to restore their size. To speed up the process, you can shake the insulation material.

In the case when the required width of the insulation is previously known, it must be taken into account at the stage of project development. 1.2m mats can be laid in two layers with 0.6m rafter spacing. In all other cases, they must be cut.
After restoring the dimensions of the insulation, it is cut and, in accordance with the drawn up project, is placed between the rafters.

It must be borne in mind that the material must be installed in a spacer. Its width should exceed the distance between adjacent rafters by 3 cm.

In the event that the mats were not cut in accordance with the length of the slope, to ensure reliable insulation of the horizontally located areas, the length of the overlap will be from 20 to 30 cm.

There must be a gap between the waterproofing film and the insulation layer. For this, bar-based conductors are used.

The last stage in the construction of a heat-insulating layer is the installation of a vapor barrier. It is necessary to prevent the penetration of condensate and moisture into hygroscopic insulation, which can lead to dampness of the material and loss of its quality characteristics.

The vapor barrier is located at the bottom of the rafter legs and is secured with staples or galvanized nails with flat heads. The vapor barrier should be installed with a 10 cm overlap. To ensure the tightness of the web, the connection is made using adhesive tape.

In some cases, the underside of the insulation material is equipped with a vapor barrier. In this case, there is no need to install additional layers.

Installation of waterproofing is carried out over a layer of thermal insulation, if polypropylene or polyethylene film is used, which do not allow water vapor to pass through.

Installation for thermal insulation is carried out when breathable membranes are used.

Ventilation of the insulation system is provided with 1 or 2 gaps.

One hole is made between the waterproofing layer and the roof. It serves to remove atmospheric moisture that can enter the under-roof space as a result of condensation or leaks.

The second hole is located between the layers of thermal and waterproofing. Its purpose is to remove vapors coming through an insufficiently tight vapor barrier from the interior.

Review of some materials for insulation

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation material consisting of long fibers of inorganic origin, melted.

It is produced in the form of heat-insulating mats and slabs.

• It has a low thermal conductivity, a high level of strength in relation to mechanical stress, and high water-repellency.
• The presence of randomly spaced fibers provides excellent sound insulation properties.
• Mineral wool does not deform when exposed to cold or heat.
• Possesses chemical and biological resistance, environmentally friendly.
• Excellent thermal insulation properties are provided by the presence of many air channels and pores. Belongs to the class of non-combustible materials.
• Qualitative characteristics are maintained for more than 10 years.

Ursa

This material has excellent thermal insulation properties.

• Due to the high level of sound insulation, it is excellent for insulating noisy types of roofs - for example, from metal tiles.
• The elasticity of the material allows you to achieve its tight fit to the surface, which provides ideal thermal insulation.
• The material is not very dense, so, if necessary, it can be cut with ordinary scissors.
• Its use as a heater makes it possible to significantly reduce the financial costs of heating.

Expanded polystyrene

This material occupies a special place among modern heaters due to its unique heat-insulating and sound-absorbing qualities. However, due to its vapor-tightness and flammability, it is not recommended to use it in the case of a flat soft roof. The choice of extruded polystyrene foam ensures excellent ventilation of the room.

The material is fixed from the inside. Plates are laid in one layer directly on the waterproofing. Care must be taken to ensure that the edges fit snugly. The joints are filled with polyurethane foam, and reinforced tape is glued on top.

During the installation process, it is important to monitor the tightness of the edges. The joints of the plates should be filled with polyurethane foam, on top of which reinforced tape is glued.

CONCLUSIONS:

• By virtue of its characteristics, a pitched roof allows you to retain the maximum amount of heat.
• To reduce heat loss, the roof must be insulated according to all the rules.
• The main requirements for the material for insulation are lightness, high thermal insulation qualities, moisture resistance.
• For insulation of a pitched roof, glass wool, mineral wool, fiberglass, etc. are used.
• To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials in advance.
• The work must be carried out in strict sequence.
• Internal thermal insulation is made in the following order: waterproofing - thermal insulation - vapor barrier.
• A device for ventilation gaps is also required.
• The modern market provides a wide selection of insulation for a pitched roof.

For more information on the features of the pitched roof insulation, see the video.

Are you dreaming of building a house with a trendy pitched roof, but you don't know what to do with it later? Should the ceiling be tilted, or should it be lowered to the horizontal? Do you need ventilation, what can be sheathed? What kind of roofing cake?

And how do you generally work with finishing materials that will have to be fastened at an angle? In this article, we will reveal to you all the secrets of what a pitched roof ceiling should be and how to make it practical and durable.

Let's first figure out what the roofing cake of a typical pitched roof is. All pitched roofs are divided into ventilated and non-ventilated. In residential buildings, and in most technical closed rooms, such a roof is made with ventilation, if there is insulation in it.

The fact is that in any living room there is water vapor (from the kitchen, people's breathing and the presence of moisture in containers), which rise up and, despite the vapor barrier, are able to penetrate the insulation. If the insulation at the same time adheres tightly to the ceiling, then the moisture has nowhere to go, and gradually the heat-insulating layer begins to damp and overgrow with mold.

Therefore, there should be a little space right above the insulation through which air from the street will pass and take away excess moisture. But in technical rooms, a pitched roof is often not insulated at all, and therefore no one thinks about its ventilation.

Now let's figure out the concepts. So, the ceiling at a pitched roof is made suspended or hemmed:

• Suspended ceiling. Here, between the ceiling and the suspended ceiling, 8-10 cm of empty space is left, where insulation is placed or ventilation is organized.
• The false ceiling is attached directly to the roof, and with only one purpose - to improve its aesthetic appearance from the inside of the room. False ceilings are good, first of all, because they do not "eat up" the height of the ceiling at all.

The ceiling of a pitched roof does not have to be done at the same angle as the roof - we can easily implement the horizontal option. And the first method will suit you only if the ceiling itself is very low, and every vertical centimeter is important to you, or if you plan to create a unique interior design.

Choosing a material for lining the ceiling

So, now is the time to decide on the material for the roof sheathing.

Wood: from simplicity to sophistication

Wood for filing the ceiling of a pitched roof is the best and most practical option. Affordable, durable and heat-retaining. This material always gives the room a special home comfort and pleasant smell. And for your roof, you do not have to take a simple pine - for your home, get a cedar or mahogany. Nice and stylish!

And dealing with the boards will be as easy as shelling pears: nail them perpendicular to the beams with the most common nails - and that's it.

Lining: style and environmental friendliness

The frame for this sheathing is easiest to make from bars or a metal profile. Just fix the guides always perpendicular to the direction of the lining:

Plywood: for outbuildings

You will have to tinker with plywood, and its appearance is not so hot. This option is more acceptable for a garage or small outbuilding.

So, if you got non-laminated plywood, be sure to treat it with antiseptic agents. And in addition, you will have to make a frame of bars - so that all the edges fall just on the wood. Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, and putty the seams. After all this, be sure to paint the ceiling.

OSB, fiberboard and MDF boards: durability

Today, a lot of finishing materials are produced from woodworking waste. They are affordable, and at the same time they are quite pleasing in quality. But the most valuable thing about them is that such a ceiling, thanks to its lamination, is easy to care for. And the aesthetic appearance does not suffer - the imitation of natural wood turns out to be quite good, and you can't really see it from a distance.

Installation is also quite simple - do everything using the same technology as with plywood.

Plastic: resistance to moisture

This is a low-cost, but inexpensive and convenient material. The ceiling turns out to be smooth, even and quite aesthetic, because plastic is produced today in the most incredible colors and textures. And most importantly, this material is the lightest of the listed, and at the same time has the highest resistance to mold. And this is already a valuable moment for outbuildings.

Plastic for filing the ceiling is produced in the form of narrow strips, which are easily and quickly assembled on their own. You can easily hold such a strip in your hands alone, and just as easily nail it onto a frame made of a bar with the help of self-tapping screws. Take a step of 50 cm, and then fix the decorative plinth at the edges.

Stretch ceiling

This type of finish is ideal for pitched roofs. It can be mounted at any angle without any problems! Moreover, such a ceiling easily hides behind itself all the irregularities of the rough finish and communications. Serves up to 50 years.

And the most important advantage of this finish is the almost invisible ceiling. Maximum - 2 cm!

And at the same time, the ceiling is not afraid of dampness or mold, it is easy to install and additionally protects against accidental leaks.

Aquapanels

Working with this finishing material is as easy as working with drywall. It is not necessary for him to do waterproofing, because such a finish is not afraid of dampness and even direct contact with water.

Siding: unusual solutions

Siding is an exclusively outdoor material for finishing a house, and therefore they are only allowed to hem the ceiling on the roof of a non-residential premises. For example, a warehouse or workshop. But it will serve you longer than all other options.

You can use both vinyl and modern metal siding for ceiling filing. Vinyl is more flexible and affordable, is lightweight and has a proprietary mounting profile. But the metal one is heavier and will only be needed if the roof itself is extremely unreliable and suffers from leaks, and for some reason you cannot change it.

Drywall: for living quarters

This is the most popular ceiling filing option. This material is so environmentally friendly that it is actively used both in residential premises and in warehouses.

But cheap drywall has serious disadvantages - low moisture resistance, warpage from moisture and dampness. You can, of course, purchase more expensive sheets that are designed specifically for a difficult microclimate.

The good thing is that hanging drywall sheets can be easily attached directly to the frame.

We make a frame for fastening

So, once you have decided on the material for the ceiling sheathing, it's time to move on to making a frame for filing.

Option # 1 - metal slats

Attaching any cladding material to such a frame is as easy as shelling pears: fireproof, lightweight, specially designed for fastening. Today, metal slats for cladding are made mainly from two types of metal - steel and aluminum, as well as a special alloy "like metal".

Assembling a rack and pinion structure is easier than a children's toy, and as a result it turns out to be almost weightless:

But there are also significant disadvantages: corrosion from the slightest scratches and a complete lack of sound and heat insulation. And also all the wooden elements that are located above such a frame quickly deteriorate.

Option # 2 - wooden slats

By its design, the wooden lathing for the ceiling of a pitched roof is similar to a metal one. The only difference is that wood, as a living material, is able to expand and contract more intensively depending on the humidity and temperature of the air. In addition, the wood deforms from moisture. Be sure to treat the bars that you use for the construction of wooden slats with fire protection.

In general, there are no contraindications to the use of wood when arranging the ceiling of such a roof. Unless it is better to give preference to metal structures if you are decorating a sauna or bath.

You will need bars with a section from 20x40 to 80x40. In addition, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic and antifungal agent.

We select the right insulation

Now, before you start installing your ceiling, check your roofing pie.

And first, answer this question for yourself: does your roof need insulation? The fact is that a gable roof differs from a gable roof in that there is much less heat loss through it, which is why many leave it with a simple filing.

For example, it all depends on what kind of material the roof is made of: if these are sip panels, for example, then they do not need any insulation, everything was thought out in advance, and if it is a simple crate with a metal profile as a roof covering, then heat insulation a layer is needed.

For the rest, be guided by what kind of building the shed roof will be on - residential or not. In a residential building, the air temperature is always higher than outside, and in winter, heating is also on. And, if the roof is not insulated, then the surface of its roofing will heat up, and the snow lying on it will melt. Then it will "creep" to a colder cornice, where it will again take on an ice crust. The result: destroyed gutters, huge icicles and gradual damage to the roof itself. But premises such as a garage or a shed, which are not heated, do not promise such problems. Although there it will not be superfluous:

More recently, it was recommended to insulate single-pitched roofs with clay concrete or cement-bonded slag. True, such insulation was in itself not sufficient, not to mention the fact that it could not withstand rain and snow. But the modern construction market offers a lot of options!

These are insulation boards, processed cellulose, and even polyurethane foam. It is easy to work with them, and the very principle of insulation does not differ from the thermal insulation of a more traditional gable roof. The only difference is that there is no usual ridge here - only the connection of the roof to the walls, where one corner is obtuse and the other is sharp. With which, by the way, you have to tinker a little.

But the main task when insulating a pitched roof is to provide ventilation of the insulation. After all, the water vapor of a residential building always rises up, and none of the vapor barrier films is capable of retaining condensate or steam by 100%. The maximum is 70-80%, and therefore it is important to make sure that the droplets of moisture accidentally caught in the insulation are immediately weathered away. For this purpose, you can equip both natural and forced ventilation of the ceiling space. By the way, many modern heaters are already produced with metal foil on the inside, which additionally serves as a vapor barrier.

And the easiest way is to insulate the ceiling of a pitched roof with expanded polystyrene. You will need to either glue these plates or fasten them to metal slats. And what's good, you can easily use the same slats for interior cladding. Comfortable!

In general, the pie of a pitched roof should be like this, starting from the top and going to the bottom: roofing, lathing, waterproofing, insulation, vapor barrier, filing. As you can see, absolutely nothing complicated, the main thing is just not to confuse anything.

Step-by-step instruction on the installation of the ceiling

The only thing that you will have to suffer a little with is the sharp angle of connection of the lean-to roof with the wall. It is almost impossible to insert plates into it so that there are no cold bridges left. Therefore, we recommend that you squeeze out the foam inside the corner, or push in more scraps of the insulation that you are using. As an option - sawdust, which has been caked for a year (only not fresh), or the same ecowool, which is specially treated with boron in the factory.

Stage 1. Preparation

Clean the inside of the roof sheathing from cobwebs or dirt. If you are using wooden slats, bring them into the room 2-3 days before starting work. This is an important point in the acclimatization of wood to temperature and humidity conditions.

Stage 2. Calculation

All wood or metal bars will need to be fixed to the ceiling surface at regular intervals. Here it just needs to be calculated in advance. In addition, it is at this stage that you need to decide which slope you will do.

Now find the lowest point of the existing draft ceiling, step back down to the height of the thickness of the bars, communications and thermal insulation, and put a mark there. So you have found that reference point by which you will level the entire ceiling, or rather, orient it. Using marks or a laser level, draw a line along the entire perimeter of the walls, and be sure to check its horizontalness.

If you arrange the ceiling at the same angle as the pitched roof itself, then measure the distance from this point that you found to the roof itself, but do not draw anything around the perimeter. Go to the opposite wall and there measure the same distance from the overlap. Naturally, the second point will be much higher than the first. Now you can draw a line around the perimeter, starting from these two points, and it will no longer be horizontal, but repeating the line of the lean-to roof itself.

Stage 3. Markup

Divide the wooden blocks into 2 parts: one will go to the perimeter of the ceiling, and the rest will go to create the inner lathing. And now everything will depend on what kind of material you will sheathe the ceiling with. If these are sheets of plywood or drywall, their joints will have to fall strictly on the parts of the crate, in the middle of the bars.

With clapboard and wooden planks - the same, but in any case, the distance between the two rows of battens should not exceed 60 cm. In addition, make the direction of the battens so that they are perpendicular to the direction of the attached hem. Another important requirement: all slats must be parallel to each other, regardless of the slope of the ceiling itself.

Now mark the ceiling (if possible) for the places of the future slats. Check: you should have straight, long lines that are parallel to each other.

Stage 4. Waterproofing

If even during the construction phase of a pitched roof you did not install a waterproofing film, now is the time! You can fix it on construction tape or a stapler. Just overlap the strips and be sure to glue all the joints.

We advise you not to use cheap films for these purposes, as for greenhouses - they are of little use. Today on sale you can find much more sensible waterproofing, anti-condensation and perforated, which removes excess moisture.

Stage 5. Installation of rails

First of all, we mount the slats, which are located along the perimeter of the ceiling. At the same time, attach the bars directly to the ceiling if you have a hemming system without insulation, and to the walls if suspended.

Use for fastening dowels with nails, if the walls are made of concrete or brick, or self-tapping screws, if we are talking about wooden walls, or if you fasten the battens directly to the roof. The optimal fastener pitch is 40-60 cm, and no more than 20 cm from the walls.

Now proceed to the installation of the internal rails. To do this, between opposite walls, at the level of the perimeter bars, pull a thread or wire, 2-3 pieces in different places. It will serve as a beacon for you to align all the other bars with. This will make the ceiling lathing perfectly flat.

If any rail protrudes, warm it up, or tighten the locking rods more tightly.

Stage 6. Filling - communications and isolation

Now that the "skeleton" of the pitched roof ceiling is ready, it's time to fill it. So, in the ceiling, you first need to hide the wiring by enclosing the cables in special non-combustible channels.

If necessary, put insulation, resting it on bars or metal slats. After that, be sure to attach a vapor barrier from the outside - a special film that will protect the inner contents of the ceiling from water vapor.

Step 7. Sheathing

That's all! Now let's move on to the cladding. The choice is yours!

When building a residential building, pitched roofs are rarely used. Such types of roofs are popular in the construction of buildings such as baths, garages, utility blocks, verandas and many other adjacent structures. However, there is an opinion among architects that this approach is not correct. They believe that developers in vain neglect the construction and insulation of pitched roofs, because they have a number of characteristic advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of pitched roofs

Heaters made from natural materials such as flax, straw, algae, etc. are used much less often than modern heaters.

The disadvantages of these heaters are their high cost and rather short service life.

Types of thermal insulation materials

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is one of the most commonly used thermal insulation materials. In terms of its properties, such a material is similar to polystyrene, which is why these two materials are often confused with each other: the material is light in weight, low in cost, and also has high environmental qualities.

Installing polystyrene foam on a surface to be insulated is quite simple, you can do it yourself without the involvement of professionals or the use of special equipment. Due to its structure with a large number of air chambers, polystyrene foam will effectively protect the house from heat loss.

Among the most popular producers of expanded polystyrene are Penoplex and Technonikol.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not inferior in popularity to expanded polystyrene, it is often used both for insulation of residential buildings and for thermal insulation of backyard structures. Despite its excellent thermal insulation qualities, mineral wool has a significant drawback - it is susceptible to moisture accumulation. In addition, the weight of mineral wool is greater than the weight of polystyrene foam. It is quite simple to mount it, it is enough to lay the sheets between the wooden floor rafters.

Ecowool

Ecowool, or cellulose wool, is often used in the west, in Russia it is rarely used. In terms of its insulating qualities, ecowool is similar to mineral wool. It is produced from the processing of cellulose and waste paper. There are two types of material on sale: in bulk or in the form of a sprayed insulation. In addition to high thermal insulation properties, lightness, accessibility and ease of installation, ecowool has noise and vibration isolation functions. In addition, the service life of ecowool is quite long.

Penoizol

Penoizol is practically analogous to expanded polystyrene. The advantages include its incombustibility, waterproofness and the fact that it does not melt under the influence of high temperatures.

Installing insulation on a pitched roof with your own hands

The way in which it is necessary to install the insulation directly depends on the thermal insulation material. Most of the insulation is installed on the roof quite simply, without the help of specialists or professional equipment.

In the event that you have chosen ecowool as a heater, you need to take a special pump with an air blower to spray it on the insulated coating. In order to make the work more economical, such equipment can be rented.

In order to fix the material in the form of slabs on the surface, clamps with a large area are required. Using them, you will securely fix the insulation. In this way, mineral wool is mounted.

Installation of thermal insulation can be started both from the inside and from the outside of the roof. The waterproofing layer is laid outside:

• The first step in performing thermal insulation work will be the installation of waterproofing. How long and effectively the insulation will serve directly depends on high-quality waterproofing materials. Lay the waterproofing on the entire surface to be insulated. Membrane sheets should overlap each other by about 100-150 mm.

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

Ask an expert

Important! Before you start installing the insulation itself directly, pay attention to its packaging. Before starting work, it must be opened. For example, be careful when using mineral wool. In the construction market, mineral wool layers are supplied in packages in a compressed form, after opening the mineral wool it increases in size. With this method of packaging, its insulating properties are better preserved.

• To determine what width of insulation to use, measure the distance between adjacent floor rafters. It is recommended to lay the insulation to a width greater than the rafter pitch by 30 mm. Thus, you protect the surface from the formation of voids and cracks, and also fix the material more tightly.
• The last step will be the installation of the vapor barrier layer. This layer will protect the insulation from moisture penetration. Otherwise, if you skip the vapor barrier layer, moisture rising from the inside of the house will accumulate in the insulation. This, in turn, leads to a deterioration in its thermal insulation qualities. It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside of a residential building, because it is from below that water vapor rises to the top. The sheets of the vapor barrier membrane must be overlapped, fixing the joints and points of contact with the surface using construction tape.

Removing damaged roofing

The most effective way would be to replace the material in the damaged area, regardless of the type of roof (slate, soft tiles, profiled sheet or other types). However, such work is difficult to do quickly and without assistance, so you can resort to laying new material over the damaged or sealing the damaged area. Places where there are holes from the use of nails or other minor damage can also be sealed, for example, by soldering a small piece of "Bikroelast".

Insulation of a concrete roof

In the event that reinforced concrete slabs act as the base of the roofs (in garages or boiler rooms), then it is recommended to lay the insulation on the outside of the structure. In this case, the thermal insulation material can be a foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm, on top of which a concrete screed is mounted.

In carrying out such work, some preparatory work should be done. The concrete surface must be treated, cleaned of various kinds of dirt and dust. The gaps between the concrete slabs are covered with polyurethane foam or fiberglass is used. After completing all the preparatory work, a heat-insulating material is laid - polystyrene. It is recommended to lay the insulation in two layers in such a way that the joints of the upper and lower ones do not coincide, and the foam plates are overlapped. To fix the foam, use a construction film.

The last layer of the "roofing pie" is a waterproofing membrane, which is stretched over the insulation. The best option for waterproofing in terms of price and practicality is a welded roof.

Let's summarize

One of the most important criteria for the effectiveness of thermal insulation is its competent installation. Most of the losses of thermal energy of all kinds of buildings and structures occur precisely through the roof, therefore, it is necessary to be puzzled by the issue of its thermal insulation in the first place. Otherwise, in case of violation of technological instructions during work, during operation, the roofing itself may deteriorate, which will lead to its dismantling and huge monetary costs.

Step-by-step video on how to insulate a flat roof

The issue of insulating various pitched roofs is especially relevant today. The rise in energy prices is forcing the owners of private houses to reconsider the approach to the construction of the roof. After all, it is through it that up to 30% of the heat leaves. And even a well-conducted thermal insulation of the floor is not a guarantee that heat loss has been completely eliminated. Particular attention is paid to the thermal insulation of mansard roofs, where the roof structure additionally performs the functions of a protective structure, that is, walls.

Thermal insulation of the attic roof from the inside with mineral wool

Roof insulation

It is necessary to start dealing with the insulation of pitched roofs with heat-insulating materials. They are presented on the market with a fairly wide range, but only four are used for roofs:

• mineral wool slabs are mineral wool pressed into mats;
• expanded polystyrene plates;
• polyurethane foam;
• ecowool.

What insulation to choose

Mineral wool slabs

It is a rock material that is heated, melted and pulled into threads. The latter are in a chaotic state in the material itself.

As for the technical characteristics:

• thermal conductivity - 0.042 W / m K;
• density - from 50 to 200 kg / m 3;
• one hundred percent environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation by hand;
• service life is 50 years;
• flammability class - NG (non-flammable).

Mineral wool mats

Expanded polystyrene plates

It is expanded polystyrene with a structure of closed balls filled with air. At the same time, air occupies 90% of the volume, which reduces the weight of the insulation and its thermal conductivity.

Specifications:

• thermal conductivity - 0.034-0.044 W / m K;
• density - 25-45 kg / m 3;
• flammability class - G3 (burns and supports combustion);
• environmental friendliness is high;
• installation method - manual;
• service life - 20 years.

It should be noted that the higher the density of the insulation, the higher its thermal conductivity.

Expanded polystyrene boards

Polyurethane foam

It is a foamed mass that hardens in air, turning into a durable, seamless coating. In fact, this is polyurethane foam, only modified. The insulation itself of this type is a two-component material. Its ingredients are mixed in a special container and supplied under pressure through a hose and a nozzle to insulated surfaces.

Specifications:

• thermal conductivity - 0.019-0.028 W / m K;
• density - 55 kg / m 3;
• flammability class - G2;
• service life - 80 years;
• environmental friendliness is high;
• installation method - special equipment is required.

Polyurethane foam is applied to the attic roof

Ecowool

This insulation is pure cellulose made from wood. It looks like cotton wool. Here are its characteristics:

• thermal conductivity - 0.038 W / m K;
• density - 40-45 kg / m 3;
• flammability class - G1 (slightly flammable);
• service life - 100 years;
• laying method - with the help of equipment;
• environmental friendliness - 100%.

Ecowool - one hundred percent natural insulation

Comparative analysis

It is incorrect to make such an analysis of insulation materials for roofs (different pitched roofs). Each material has its own pros and cons. In addition, the price is different, and the installation method varies greatly. For example, polyurethane foam is better than others in terms of its heat engineering characteristics. But it cannot be applied to the roof without special equipment. And this increases its already high price.

In this regard, mineral wool and polystyrene foam plates are the best option. They are easier to install and inexpensive. But their service life is short.

Price comparison:

And one more criterion by which insulation materials can be compared is the thickness of the layer to be laid. Here are the positions:

• mineral wool - 214 mm;
• foamed polystyrene - 120-150 mm;
• foamed polyurethane - 50-100 mm;
• ecowool - 150-200 mm.

Comparison of building materials by thickness and heat engineering characteristics

Pitched roof thermal insulation technology

Insulation of mansard gable roofs is very different from the thermal insulation of single-pitched roofs. Because the latter have a small attic space, hence the difficulties of carrying out work from the inside. They are carried to the outside from the side of the roof covering. In this case, we immediately denote that polyurethane foam is not used in a single-slope structure.

Thermal insulation of a pitched roof

So, how to properly insulate a pitched roof:

1. Along the rafters, at the ends, at the lower edges, the so-called cranial slats are stuffed along.
2. Between the rafter legs, boards or any durable plate or sheet material are laid on the rails: plywood, chipboard, OSB, and so on. The legs are fastened with self-tapping screws. Niches are formed.
3. A vapor barrier membrane is laid along the rafter system. Installation is carried out in strips with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joint is closed with self-adhesive tape. Laying should be carried out so that the film covers the niches, emphasizing their shape.
4. Insulation is being installed in niches.
5. On top of the rafters, a waterproofing film is laid in the same way as a vapor barrier, only tightly without sagging. Fastening to the rafter legs with staples from a stapler.
6. Installation of the lathing.
7. Installation of roofing material.

As you can see, insulating a pitched roof is not the most difficult process, so even a person who is far from the construction industry can do it with his own hands.

Shed roof construction with insulation

Insulation of a gable roof

There are two possible situations:

1. The roof is already covered with roofing material.
2. Not covered yet.

Let's start with the second case, because it's simpler.

1. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the rafter legs in strips. Laying method - overlap with additional fastening of the joint with adhesive tape. Laying direction - horizontal from the eaves to the ridge. It is not necessary to tighten too much, a slight slack will provide thermal expansion or contraction of the material.
2. A counter-lattice is stuffed along the waterproofing - these are bars laid along the rafters (along). They create a ventilation gap between the roof covering and the insulation cake.
3. The crate is stuffed.
4. Installation of roofing material is in progress.
5. The rest of the processes are transferred to the attic room (attic).
6. A slab insulation is laid between the elements of the rafter system. The layer (thickness) of the latter should be equal to the width of the rafters.
7. Cover the entire pitched plane with a vapor barrier membrane in the same way as with a waterproofing film from above.
8. Panel or sheet finishing is mounted: plywood, drywall, lining, etc.

Laying waterproofing on rafters

If polyurethane foam is chosen as the thermal insulation material, then all work from the inside of the attic is reduced to applying foam to the pitched plane of the roofing structure. The main task is the uniformity of the applied material.

If ecowool is chosen as thermal insulation, then a vapor barrier layer is first installed from the attic side along the rafter system. Then holes are made in it, where a hose is inserted, which supplies insulation into the space between the rafters. Thus, all areas between the rafter legs are filled. Subsequently, the holes made are sealed with tape.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that ecowool is installed using wet and dry technology. The first is when water is added to the material. When insulating pitched roofs, dry technology is used.

Backfilling of ecowool into the space between two films

If the roof is already covered with roofing material

Here, the technology of thermal insulation differs little from the previous one. The peculiarity lies in the fact that all work is carried out from inside the attic space. And the main distinguishing feature is waterproofing, which is applied in strips along the rafter legs with the recessed film into the formed niches. To make it clear what is at stake, look at the photo, which shows how the waterproofing should be laid and fixed.

Waterproofing membrane installed from the inside of the attic on the roof slope

All other operations are carried out according to the technology described above. That is:

1. The laying of the slab insulation is in progress.
2. Installation of vapor barrier film.
3. Interior decoration of the attic.

If polyurethane foam is used, then it is simply applied to the rafter legs covered with a film. If ecowool is used, then a vapor barrier layer is laid, and the space between the two protective layers is filled with insulation.

Thermal insulation technology for a four-pitched roof

The process of insulating a hipped roof or hip roof is no different from the thermal insulation of a gable roof. These are all the same slopes, only they are not two, but four. The volume of work being done is simply increasing.

The only negative point regarding plate heat insulators is a large amount of their waste. It's all about the shape of the stingrays. It is trapezoidal and triangular at the hip roof, and only triangular at the hip roof. This means that in places of narrowing of the structure, thermal insulation materials will have to be cut.

This does not apply to polyurethane foam and ecowool. Here the consumption does not change, and it corresponds to the area of ​​the insulated pitched areas.

What points should you pay attention to

Despite the seeming simplicity of the operations performed, there are many nuances in them, on which the quality of the final result depends. And for those who decide to carry out the insulation on their own, it is recommended not to miss these important points:

• Before starting work, all wooden units and parts must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. First, the first is applied, after drying the second. The antiseptic composition is protection against biological effects (microorganisms: mold, fungi). Fire retardant composition - protection against fire. That is, if a fire starts, the wood will not immediately catch fire, it will take several minutes.

Antiseptic treatment of rafters

• Waterproofing is installed at the roofing material. Its purpose is to prevent leaks, if such leaks suddenly arise, to penetrate the insulating cake. The second purpose is not to let through the moisture that has formed in the layer of heat-insulating material.
• A vapor barrier membrane is still the same film, similar to a waterproof one. But it is denser and does not allow steam (humid air vapor) to pass through. Therefore, its main task is to close the insulation layer with itself so that moisture emanating from the interior of the building and passing through the ceiling cannot penetrate into it. But even with very careful installation, small gaps remain in the vapor barrier layer through which steam enters the insulation. So that he does not stay there, they lay on top of the waterproofing. It is important not to confuse the two materials with each other. Otherwise, the thermal insulation cake will quickly lose its properties. This mainly applies to ecowool and some models of mineral wool.
• If it is decided to use polyurethane foam as insulation and do the whole process with your own hands, then it is recommended to purchase a mini-installation consisting of two cylinders into which the components are pumped under pressure. When leaving the containers, they are mixed in a special mixer of small dimensions. And already through the hose with a nozzle, the foam is supplied to the outside. Manufacturers today offer installations with different volumes of cylinders, with different speeds of work. This equipment is reusable, just after the ingredients are used up, they are poured into containers. And you can continue to work.
• If foamed polystyrene plates were used as a heater, then they can not be covered with a vapor barrier film. This insulation is not afraid of even a large amount of water.
• Ideally, fill the space between the rafter legs completely, both in width and depth.

If a decision is made - to insulate the roof of your own house, then this process should not be postponed indefinitely. The main thing is to decide on the choice of thermal insulation. And the operation itself is simple. Strictly follow the steps and the high quality of the final result will be guaranteed.