Do-it-yourself circular machine for little money. Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw - according to our drawings and manuals, everyone can do it

A circular machine is the tool that no home craftsman can do without. This equipment is especially relevant for country house or cottages. But work manual machine not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.

The way out of this situation can be to make this device with your own hands. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.

Making a frame for a circular machine with your own hands is very simple. For the manufacture will be needed the most ordinary lumber and quite a bit of time.

Before thinking about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subject. The main thing in the frame is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the base is a welded reinforced metal structure. But for do-it-yourself use, such a unit is not needed.

If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the frame can also be different.

First of all, you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use choose equipment where the power parameters do not exceed 850 watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or a country house, it is often necessary to cut very a large number of wood.

That is, the power of the circular is required more. But experienced craftsmen it is not advised to buy saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase the cost of electricity.

The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed for it. For professional circulars, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile. Sometimes these beds are even concreted into the floor. Since the vibration of the device can lead to danger to life.

Technical features of circular machines

Depth of the intended incision. This parameter determines the thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine. This indicator in semi-professional and professional machines fluctuates in the range of 5-8 cm. For cutting boards and thick plywood, this is quite enough.

But it will be inconvenient to work with logs on this machine. In addition, it should be taken into account that this characteristic homemade saw decreases. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if the table frame is provided with the ability to lower or raise the disc.

When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular for the procurement of building materials, then this figure may be less. If you need a clean and even cut, then the speed is needed quite high. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture.

But even in this case, there are certain nuances. For cutting plastic materials this saw does not fit. Due to very high tool revolutions disk is warming up and the plastic starts to melt.

Therefore, it is better to choose an apparatus where the rotational speed is not more than 4500 rpm, in this case the frame for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional strengthening of the table is not required.

Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel should be safe. This rule is all the more important in the case when the open part of the saw is at the bottom of the tabletop.

In this version, the panel with switches is best placed from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin the direct assembly of the table.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

The simplest version of the frame for the circular is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool itself is attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. A special slot is made for the saw in the table lid.

The dimensions for the table can be changed as it will be convenient for you to work on it. For example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110-120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. Also, according to your desire, you can change the length of the tabletop.

If you plan to work with boards that have a length of more than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, it is necessary to make changes directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.

For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard, this material is not reliable enough.

Tools and materials for assembly

For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help to cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.

It is undesirable to fix stationary guides, since later you will not be able to change their position.

To build a table, you will need the following materials:

• sheet of iron;
• plywood sheet;
• beam size 50 × 50 mm;
• board size 50 × 100 mm;
• steel corner for guides;
• two clamps;
• hand circular saw.

You also need to pre-prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:

1. Screwdriver, electric drill.
2. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
3. Measurement tools (tape measure, square, ruler).
4. Hand mill or milling machine.

When everything is prepared, you can begin to assemble the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen collect countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the structural elements with your own hands. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.

Making a tabletop for a circular machine

The assembly of the table begins with the manufacture of the countertop. plywood sheet mark so that the two edges of the lid are in size with the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The edge of the saw cut can be processed with a cutter, but this operation is optional. Since in the frame the main parameter is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.

From the bottom of the tabletop mark slot for circular circle . Why first you need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the footprint.

With help hand cutter choose bars to a depth of approximately 0.9-1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

Then, when the seat is made, try on the saw, and if necessary, correct the recess. Mark the slots for the circle and fix the fasteners. If you want the circle to rise and fall, then you need to install pendulum mechanism for table top.

In this case, the slot must be made in the form of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downwards. directly frame for lifting mechanism the best thing make from steel that are welded to each other.

Making a table frame

The markings for fixing the transverse rails and longitudinal ones, which act as stiffeners, are best installed on the wrong side of the countertop. The planks themselves are made from a bar. You will need:

• Two transverse parts, long equal to the width of the countertop minus 7-9 cm on each side.
• Two longitudinal ribs, equal in size to the length of the cover minus 7-9 cm on each side.

Then you need make nests for screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.

The first fastener must be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 ​​cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached from the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the tree.

First fix the transverse ribs. To make the table cover as strong as possible, the edges of the rail must first smear with carpenter's glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.

The tabletop is allowed to dry completely. After that, the longitudinal rails are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together with two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.

Mounting legs (supports)

Table legs are made from timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the worktop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg descends from below to an angle. So, the area of ​​the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of ​​the top.

It is best to secure the legs with steel corners. They need to be slightly pressed so that the base of the machine is in the "strut". This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners, they are fastened with caps outward. Otherwise, during operation, you can be injured on the protruding parts of the fasteners.

The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are pulled together with diagonal rails. They are attached in pairs from each side of the machine.

Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet for coating, which is mounted on self-tapping screws. At the very end, on the prepared place, the tool is attached directly.

On the table top additional markup, it will help to cut wood evenly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on outside machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the legs of the table. That's all, the circular saw with your own hands is ready.

All photos from the article

Processing wood often involves removing a certain layer from it. This can be done manually, but it is best to use a special mechanism. If you like to make from wood blanks various products, you just need to purchase or design a household wood planer. Today we will deal with the second case.

Equipment Capabilities

What can be done with a planer:

• different furniture for summer cottages and apartments;
• fence;
• ladder; (See also the article.)
• prepare the cladding;
• renew old wood that has darkened from time to time.

In the photo - one of the options for a multifunctional woodworking machine with a cantilevered placement of the engine from the side of the circular saw

We make a planer on our own

Like any equipment that uses rotating parts and consists of several components, it is quite complex to manufacture. It is very good if you have some experience working on it, which will be very useful in the design and implementation of the plan.

In fact, we will design a mini-complex where wood can be:

• saw along and across the fibers, for which you need a circular saw;
• plan;
• grind and;
• sharpen;
• drill.

The equipment will consist of 2 machines:

1. A circular saw with jointer.
2. Turning and drilling.

In this case, the first will be a kind of support for the second. We are more interested in the first, so the article below will focus on it.

Scheme

1. An aggregate layout will be used - a circular saw and jointer knives are placed on the same rotor shaft.
2. It will be possible to simplify the equipment as much as possible and increase its functionality.
3. In this case, the placement of the main components and assemblies is as rational as possible.

Alas, it will not work to make a machine only from do-it-yourself parts, so you will have to involve professionals with their machine park. This mainly concerns the main shaft and bearing seats.

But, no one forbids you to adapt the parts available on the farm to it, when they belonged to other mechanisms, for example, a frame from sewing machine. Moreover, it is often possible to do this without any special alteration of the latter.

Consider the hardware details:

Tip: the nut on the rotor must be with a right-hand thread, then during operation it will be self-tightening.

Drive unit

1. For normal operation such equipment, it is necessary to purchase a three-phase 380 V electric motor with a power of at least 3 kW.
2. The work of the main shaft will be carried out using a two-ribbed wedge-shaped belt.
3. You can attach the engine cantilever, fixing it inside the frame, which will solve the problem of the necessary belt tension. You should also consider the stationary method, but then you need to make a slide to adjust it.

1. The higher the speed of the working shaft, the cleaner the wood processing will be. Therefore, two pulleys of different diameters should be used, and the larger one should be on the engine.
2. Power the motor through a 4-wire cable, having carried out all the measures for grounding the equipment. Turning on the machine should be carried out using an automatic machine, which, in the event of a short circuit or overload, will instantly turn it off.

1. It is necessary to periodically carry out preventive maintenance of the equipment:

• extrude bearings;
• check the reliability of fastening of knives;
• evaluate the condition of the teeth of a circular saw;
• inspect belts;
• check the power cable.

1. Do not forget that this equipment is dangerous during operation due to rotating parts, so they should be covered with a casing.
2. During work, be extremely careful and follow the safety rules.
3. In the process of planing and cutting, do not use excessive force to speed up the process.

1. Install above the workplace good lighting, and do not litter the space near the machine with unnecessary things.
2. Pay attention to the floor surface - it should not be slippery.

Tip: use rubber mats or a conveyor belt to prevent accidents.

1. It is advisable to work together if you have to plan long workpieces - one at the feed, the second at the reception.
2. If you have to cut a large layer, remove the chips from the table more often or use a dust extractor.

Making a jointer on a wooden frame

The instructions below will tell you everything step by step:

1. Prepare the motor and main shaft.

   

2. Draw the model on the computer or freehand.

   

3. Draw the details of the equipment to scale.

   

4. Prepare a place for the rotor bearings.

   

5. Install the motor and rotor on the frame and connect them with a belt.

   

6. Make a mechanism for the infeed table that can be raised and lowered.

   

7. Install a birch plywood serving table.

   

8. Attach steel plates on top.

   

9. The machine is ready.

Conclusion

It is best to make a planer multifunctional so that you can not only planer workpieces, but also cut them, drill, chisel, and also polish. The main element - the main shaft, should be ordered by a professional turner. The power of the electric motor should be approximately 3 kW at 1500 rpm, and for better processing of parts, pulleys should be installed on the motor and rotor of different diameters.

The frame of the machine must be massive and reliable, for which use channel No. 5 with a wall thickness of 8-10 mm, although it can also be wood. Be sure all rotating elements must be covered with a casing. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find Additional information on the above topic.

For anyone home master, the presence of its own stationary sawing machine This is time saving and work safety.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles, more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with elementary locksmith skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions that are not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, it’s enough strong table with slot for saw blade. Such options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.

In some of these "models" there is a shaft for fixing the knives of a planer or jointer. As a rule, a bed is cooked from a corner or a channel, an electric motor is fixed on it from a decommissioned factory ventilation, and with the help of a pulley, the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

Another thing is if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, it is necessary coordinate table with guides that are fixed under different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can work with small workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the operator. It is desirable to provide for the adjustment of the rotation speed and the possibility of easy change of discs with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk, and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the stop button is placed in an accessible place and is made large.

Don't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, keeping a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Consider the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from metal corner(channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the funds, contact the metal rolling warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes by connecting them with corners.

A good option homemade bed from rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, because due to vibration, such a mount will unwind.

Electricity must be used. Be sure to step up corner connections jib. top the bed (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must be with steel rims and have locks. The higher the mass of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

First, let me tell you about my hobby. I like to make things: to create with my own hands the things necessary in the house that increase comfort and decorate the home. I especially like working with wood - carpentry, carpentry. The desire to have an "assistant" in its use that speeds up work and improves its quality served as the main motive for creating the presented combined machine for producing joinery blanks, or, one might say, a woodworking mini-complex.

My practical, albeit limited, experience with industrial machines, both woodworking and metal-cutting, turned out to be very useful in the design and manufacture of this mini-complex. Now with its help it is possible to produce a variety of processing: sawing (both in the longitudinal and transverse directions of the fibers); planing; grinding and polishing, turning and drilling (and you never know what else - it's hard to list everything) wood products, and some operations even from metal.

The mini-complex consists of two, in general, independent, machines (except that the first serves as a base or support for the second). The first is a circular saw with an electric jointer. The second is a lathe-drilling machine.

Today we will talk about the first one. Consider its device in more detail. But first of all, I note that it was designed, so to speak, according to the aggregate scheme (joiner knives and Circular Saw have a common drive and are fixed on one working shaft - the rotor). This solution allowed me to make the design more simple and technological, which undoubtedly affected the rational placement of the main components and assemblies. This machine has nodes like industrial production, and ordered to professionals and, of course, made with my own hands. There are even unusual details, For example, bearing part machine - frame, nothing more than "legs" from the old sewing machine. And she successfully fit into the overall design with virtually no alterations, or rather, the width of the planer table was adjusted to its appropriate size. The main parts of the bed (side rails, crossbars, spacers) were made from channel No. 5. Both designs: frame and bed are welded.

A three-knife rotor installed on the machine with double-sided (double-edged) jointer knives, saw blades with carbide tips, various kinds of devices allow you to get products from lumber High Quality. In planing (planing) mode, the width of the machined surface is 260 mm, and the depth of cut is up to 2 mm.

Jointer and circular saw drive

Tables (inlet and outlet) jointer and control panel (in the foreground)

Woodworking jointer and "circular" (click to enlarge): 1 - frame (from a foot sewing machine, stamped steel channel 50x50x50, 4 pcs.; 2 - hinged sub-engine platform; 3 - additional frame stand for mounting the "circular" lifting table "(corner 50x50, 2 pcs.; 4 - tray (duralumin sheet s1.5); 5 - longitudinal side (rolling channel No. 5.2 pcs.; 6 - under-table remote substrate (rolling channel No. 5, 4 pcs.; 7 - circular saw (Ø300x32); 8 - control panel; 9 - subframe of the "circular" lifting table (corner No. 5); 10 - mechanism for lifting the "circular" table (jack); 11 - transverse drawer (rolling channel No. 5, 2 pcs. .; 12 - jointer; 13 - driven pulley; 14 - V-belt (2 pcs.; 15 - V-belt drive pulley; 16 - electric motor (N=3 kW, n=1500 rpm, U=380 V); 17 - cross connection (steel profile, 4 pcs.; 18 - jointer discharge table; 19 - planer intake table; 20 - "circular" lifting table; 21 - guide trimming facilities (pipe Ø17); 22 - bearing housing of the working shaft (2 pcs

The rotor (or working shaft) is the most important, complex and critical part of the machine. In addition, it is common to jointer and circular. I made it (or rather, I ordered a turner, and then a milling machine) according to the drawings published in the article "Small, yes universal" by V. Avtukh from the Belarusian city of Grodno in the magazine "Modeler-Constructor" No. 11 for 2003. But since this detail is very important, and the publication was quite a long time ago, I will give a drawing of the rotor again, especially since I made my own changes to it: for example, I lengthened the knives, and, accordingly, the rotor, seats(pins) for other bearings, etc.

In the same issue of the magazine, I "peeped" the lifting mechanism of the "circular" table - by adjusting its height on the machine, replacing the circular saw with a suitable cutter (or with the same saw in one or more passes), you can select grooves, "quarters" and folds different sizes.

The saw blade has a diameter of 300 mm and allows for a maximum cutting height (or groove depth) of up to 80 mm in one pass. Cutting the edges of the board at different angles is helped by a device mounted on the edge of the desktop of a circular saw. This sliding mechanism(I'll call it a sled) is very convenient when processing the end edges of the board.

The reliability of this machine was tested in the process of creating another machine - a lathe. Working on its bed, for three hours in a row I cut longitudinal guide oblong holes (grooves) on the upper shelves of its channels using cutting wheels installed in place saw blade and then polished them.

Jointer table: 1 - longitudinal element of the strapping (corner 45x45, 2 pcs.; 2 - rear strapping element (corner 45x45); 3 - front strapping element (corner 45x45); 4 - tabletop (steel sheet s5)

Under-engine platform frame: 1 - longitudinal piping element (stamped steel channel No. 5, 2 pcs.; 2 - transverse piping element (stamped steel channel No. 5.2 pcs.; 3 - frame suspension eye (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 4 - cross-link of the frame; 5 - lug cross connection(steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 6 - frame suspension axis (steel, circle 20); 7 - cotter pin

Jointer and circular saw rotor (click to enlarge): 1 - M8 screw with spring washer; 2 - pressure washer O35x25 (steel, sheet s4); 3 - driven two-strand pulley; 4 - bearing housing cover (2 pcs.; 5-bearing 18037 (2 pcs.; 6 - bearing housing (2 pcs.; 7 - rotor (steel 45); 8 - thrust washer; 9 - saw blade; 10 clamping washer; 11 - nut M20; 12-clamping plate of the knife (3 pcs.; 13-joiner knife, 3 pcs.; 14 - spacer (M6 screw, 12 pcs.

Circular saw lifting table with workpiece trimming mechanism

In the middle of the frame (half the length), a working shaft is installed, the bearing units of which are fixed to it with the help of M20x1.5 bolts 70 mm long. The shaft is driven from the left side. If you look from the side of the worker's place, then the left part is the knife part of the planer head. On the right side there is a shaft neck with a diameter of 32 mm. Depending on the operation performed, it can be equipped with: a circular saw, milling cutter, emery, grinding or cutting wheel. Important! The tool mounting nut on the shaft has a right-hand thread. The working surface of the machine is formed from three steel plates (tables). Two plates are located on the sides of the planing rotor (shaft). The first is the receiving table, located closer to the carpenter, the second table is the outgoing one. Both tables are the same size. Special height adjustment mechanism regarding cutting tool the take-off table does not, and this operation is carried out as needed with the help of steel spacers.

Table tops are made of 5 mm thick steel sheet in the form of inverted trays (or gutters) set into frames of 45x45 angles and welded to them.

The table of a circular saw, on the contrary, can be easily adjusted in height relative to the saw blade during operation using the built-in lifting mechanism. On the right side of the "circular" table, on a longitudinal guide, there is a mechanism with an angle setting scale, with which you can trim the ends of the boards, not only at a right angle, but also at any other angle. The corresponding device for a hand saw is taken as the basis of this mechanism.

I note that the described device is easily removed: removed or lowered down. The longitudinal guide is made of steel pipe with a diameter of 17 mm, its fastening is carried out with the help of eye brackets on the edges of the table of a circular saw.

On the same side of the same table, by means of clamping bars, a guide bar made of a 50x50 mm steel rolling angle is attached to the table with M10 bolts. The distance between the saw blade and the bar determines the width of the workpiece to be cut. And the bar itself helps to maintain a given width along the entire length of the workpiece without marking the latter.

The lifting mechanism of the "circular" table and fastening to the table of the guide bar (click to enlarge): 1 - frame, 2 - thrust cross member of the frame (corner 50x50); 3 - jack (M20x2 screw); 4 - thrust cross member of the lifting table (corner 45x45); 5 - lifting table stopper (special screw M12x1.5.2 pcs.; 6 - circular saw; 7 - guide bar; 8 - drawer side (40x40 corner, 4 pcs.; 9 - lifting table stand (40x40 corner, 2 pcs.; 10 - brace (corner 40x40, 2 pcs.; 11 - tabletop; 12 - additional frame stand; 13 - clamping bar (steel, 2 pcs.; 14 - half-stud-locker with M10 nut (2 sets; 15 - special screw M10, 2 pcs

The mechanism for trimming blanks (items pos. 3,4,6 are used from a device for hand saw) (click to enlarge): 1 - base (board s15); 2 - emphasis (board s18); 3 - rack (steel); 4 - plate with a scale (steel); 5 - fixing the plate to the base (M8 bolt, 2 pcs.; 6 - stopper (special knurled nut M8); 7 - fastening the bushings to the base (M8 nut, 2 pcs.; 8 - lifting table "circular"; 9 - bracket fastening the guide to the table (steel sheet s5, 2 pcs.; 10 - guide rod (pipe Ø17); 11 - backing plate (steel, sheet s5); 12 - bushing (steel, 2 pcs.; 13 - fastening the guide rod (screw M12, 2 pcs

The rotor drive - the working (tool) shaft - is carried out by a two-strand V-belt transmission (although in practice I use only one belt) from a three-phase (380 V) 3 kW electric motor with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm. The engine is located at the very bottom inside the frame and is hinged on a suspended cantilever subframe, which made it possible to solve the problem of belt tension without an additional roller. To ensure high-quality processing of the material, the rotational speed of the working shaft was increased due to the accelerating V-belt transmission. At the drive, the diameter of the motor pulley is one and a half times larger than the diameter of the working shaft pulley, therefore, the knife rotor and the circular saw rotate at an angular speed of about 2250 rpm. The electric motor is powered through a four-wire cable, the wiring is made in accordance with all safety standards, the frame is grounded. In the event of a short circuit or overload, the starting machine is able to almost instantly turn off the power in automatic mode. After work, the machine should be de-energized, cleaned of sawdust and dust.

The machine has been in operation for six years. I carry out routine maintenance: I inject bearing assemblies, check the serviceability of fastening the jointer knives, the condition of the teeth of the saw blade, inspect the drive V-belts and power cables of the machine.

It would not be superfluous to recall that the machine belongs to the mechanisms of increased danger. Rotating parts and unused cutting tools must be covered with fixed covers. Working on the machine requires the utmost concentration of attention, compliance with safety regulations. Do not rush, do not apply force to speed up the process, work for your own pleasure. The carpenter's workplace should be well lit, the space around the machine should be sufficiently free, and the floor covering should not be slippery.

Planing equipment is an indispensable component of a full-fledged woodworking process. Factory products are quite expensive, so homemade is quite suitable for home use. planer.

The purpose of this tool is the longitudinal alignment of a piece of wood or chipboard (materials that are painted or contain adhesive can dull the cutting elements of the equipment). After planing on a jointer, the machined side of the workpiece becomes smooth and even, which is necessary for subsequent calibration on thicknesser or milling.

Industrial options differ in size and significant weight, which ensures the suppression of vibration arising from rapidly rotating machine parts (up to 12,000 rpm). The total length of the working surface of such equipment is 2–2.5 m. The width of the table, which determines the maximum width of the workpiece to be processed, is in the range of 400–600 mm.

Simpler jointing machines that you can make yourself at home have less weight, dimensions and, accordingly, a shaft speed (no more than 6000 rpm). The total length of countertops on such equipment is 1–1.5 m with a width of 200–300 mm.

The main components of the jointer

• Bed. A massive element that provides structural rigidity, chip removal, and placement of the electric drive.
• Working tables (serving and receiving).
• Stubborn line. For cutting at an angle.
• Shaft with cutting elements (knives).
• Electric drive. Provides rotation of the shaft through a belt drive and pulleys.
• Protective mechanism rack or fan type.

The main components of the jointer

Additionally, your jointer can be equipped with a workpiece feed mechanism and suction system chip removal.

Self-made jointer

Before starting any do-it-yourself machine manufacturing activities, you will need three things: a project, materials and tools. All of them are interconnected, since the project directly depends on what materials are available and what tools are available. If there is no welding machine and skills to work with it, it makes no sense to consider a project involving a welded structure.

The metal structure can also be assembled using bolted connections. This option will have some positive qualities: The bolt planer can be dismantled if necessary without much effort.

For the carpenter the most convenient option – wooden structure, but it is inferior to metal in rigidity and in the life of some elements of the machine. In addition, certain nodes cannot be made from a tree.

Part of the components will have to be bought or ordered. These are parts like:

• shaft with knives, fixing wedges, a set of bearings, yokes;
• electric motor;
• pulleys;
• belt;
• starting device.

To draw up a project, you need to decide what functions the device will perform. The following options are possible:

• Jointing machine. A device whose purpose is to plan a part on one side without calibration.
• A two-operation machine that performs a function and a jointer.
• multi-operation machine. Such devices can be used for sawing, planing, grooving and milling, like a thicknessing machine.

The jointer is the easiest to manufacture, it requires less tools, material and skills.

Bed manufacturing

The main element of the planer, it will have work tables, a shaft with knives and a stop ruler. A drive will be installed in the body of the bed, and chip removal will also be implemented. To make the design rigid, you will need the appropriate material.

• for the upper part, on which the tabletops are located, it is suitable for a height of 100 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm;
• legs and bottom platform can be made from a metal corner (50 mm);
• the structure is fastened by welding or bolting.

Assembly diagram of the machine bed

Shaft with knives

This unit must be purchased as a set. The kit should include:

• knives;
• bearings with housings (yokes);
• wedges with which knives are fixed.

The quality of the material and the balancing of such elements made in the factory are much higher than home-made specimens.

This unit can be ordered from a turner, providing him with drawings and specifying the details. It is good if the turner works at the enterprise and he has access to balancing equipment.

Work tables

Industrial jointers are equipped with massive cast tabletops with stiffeners to prevent deformations during operation. With the manufacture of their own hands, this is unattainable. Therefore, as optimal solution to equip the planer platform, it is better to use sheet material. Ideally, this should be a flat metal plate 10 mm thick, in the most extreme case - a sheet of plywood.

Plywood must be of sufficient thickness (at least 10 mm), in addition, you need to pay attention to the quality of the surface - the plane must be even. It is advisable to use sanded waterproof plywood, without small tubercles or loose knots. To increase service life plywood countertop, on its working surface you can attach a sheet of galvanized metal with your own hands.

The serving table is made 2 times longer than the receiving one. This makes it easier to level the workpiece when jointing.

electric motor

The main parameters to consider when choosing an electric drive for your planer:

• power;
• number of turns;
• operating voltage of the power supply network (220, 380 V).

The longer and larger in diameter the cutting tool, the more powerful the engine will need. It is possible to use a low-power drive, compensating for the lack of power with pulleys, but in this case it will not be possible to achieve the speed necessary for a clean cut.

As an example, consider a shaft with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 300 mm. For stable continuous operation at a speed of about 6000 per minute, you will need a drive with a power of at least 3 kW. If you change the length in the input to 200 mm, you can use a motor with a minimum power of 2 kW.

As for the engine speed: it is more rational to use a drive that has at least 3000 rpm. Otherwise, pulleys will have to be used to obtain sufficient revolutions of the cutting tool.

The operating voltage of the drive depends on the voltage electrical network in a workshop. An engine that runs on 380 V will be more powerful and more reliable than an engine with the same rated power, but designed to work on a 220 V network. But in a home workshop, 380 V is a rarity, and the connection costs so much that these funds can buy an inexpensive factory jointer.

It should be remembered that this homemade jointer for domestic use, and it does not need to be mercilessly loaded, strict for the entire width of the knives, 5 mm per pass. Not every industrial unit (especially a modern one) can withstand such loads.

The shaft with cutting elements is attached to the top of the bed in the middle, the exact location depends on the size of the work tables between which it must be located. The shaft and tabletop must be located in the same plane so that the top point of the cutting tool knives coincides with the top surface of the receiving table.

The feed table is mounted in the same plane as the receiving table, but 1–2 mm lower. This distance determines the thickness of the chip removed in one pass. The quality of planing depends on how exactly the planes of the surfaces will coincide, namely, how even the planed workpiece will be.

Machine Assembly Scheme

There are options adjustable height feed plane by means of eccentrics or a screw mechanism.

When assembling a planer with your own hands at home, it is very difficult to qualitatively implement such a mechanism. It could be considered incredible achievement if this equipment will plane evenly with fixed tops.

The electric drive is mounted on the bottom platform of the frame. It is advisable to use an adjustable platform to install the engine in order to provide a more convenient belt tension. The tension mechanism can be implemented using a technological hole in the platform and a screw with a nut as regulating elements.

Connecting mechanisms

Rotation is transmitted from the engine to the shaft by means of a belt drive, through pulleys. The pulleys are sized according to the power and RPM of the engine.

For a drive with a rotation of 3000 rpm, a ratio of 1 to 2 can be considered normal. For example, the diameter of the cutting tool pulley is 100 mm, on the drive it is 200 mm. Optimal ratio when assembling with your own hands, it can be obtained experimentally and largely depends on the quality and balancing of the rotating parts of the planer.

The drive is connected to the mains by means of starting device according to the instructions for the motor.

Alternative option

More simple and fast way to make a do-it-yourself planing machine is to use a manual electric planer, having previously upgraded it a little. Every self-respecting home carpenter must have such a tool available. All that needs to be done is to make a device for fixing it.

The easiest option for making a machine with your own hands is to use sheet material as the basis.