Sewing machine "Veritas": description, instructions and reviews. Sewing machine "Veritas": description, instructions and reviews Sewing machine veritas 8014 43 electric drive

This is a table-top electric zigzag machine with decorative stitches. The main structure of the machine is the same as the sewing machine described above. "Veritas" -8014/35.

Let's consider some malfunctions and related devices during disassembly and assembly.

Fault: the tracing lever does not return to its original position. Broken finger for switching stitch types.

Remove the zigzag block.

1. Pulling off the locking brackets from the plastic pins of the front trim strip.
2. Loosen the screw on the contact tube of the program shift knob and remove both knobs.
3. Unscrew the two axle screws on the front and rear panels.
4. Unscrew the two nuts on the right and one screw on the left, remove the needle bar frame, take out the zigzag unit.

Remove the trailing arm block from the zigzag block. Remove the return coil spring with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of 5 mm from the control lever. Bring a thin screwdriver blade under the lever and slightly bend it from the frame, lubricate with I20A oil. Put on the return coil spring. Grind the contact surfaces of the teeth of both tracer arms on a felt grinding wheel. In place of the broken finger (Fig. 150) in the stitch type selector, saw down a slot 2.6 mm wide, 2 mm deep and put a metal rod 4 with high wear resistance (for example, a handle from a drill with a diameter of 2.5 mm).

Rice. 150.
(car "Veritas" -8014/43 class.):

Electric weld on both sides (2 mm stainless steel electrodes). Finger 4 must be at 90 ° to the straight base 5 and be in the plane of the lever-plate 1 ... The finger must be sanded on the wheel, it must have a smooth mirror surface.

Put the copier block in place (in the zigzag block).

Frame swing axis (end 1 ) ( ) insert into the hole of the frame 6 from the back ( ), then skip the axis into the frame hole 5 the zigzag block, then into the hole in the rear side of the pusher 4 switch finger; then the axle goes into the hole in the front side of the frame of the traverse levers block 2 , then into the hole in the front side of the shift finger pusher 1 .

Fig. 151.

Rice. 152.
(car "Veritas" -8014-43 class):

Put into ring grooves 3 and 7 locking washers. Tighten the locking screw on the frame 5 the zigzag block from the bottom side (it stops the axis 8 swinging of the frame of the tracing levers block). Replace the zigzag needle bar drive rod. It is attached with one axle screw to the bottom hole of the shift pin pusher.

To check the operation of the block of tracing levers, it is necessary to press the pull-drive to the block and switch the knob for selecting the type of stitches. The unit should work fine. When checking, it may happen that the tracing levers (there are two of them on the zigzag unit) do not align with the corresponding track on the plastic drums.

There are two ways to correct the situation:

but) shift the swing axis of the frame of the copier block. To do this, loosen the axle locking screw (it is from the bottom) and shift the axle to one side or the other (back or forward);

b) bend the shift finger 4 ( ) in one direction or the other. And bend your finger slightly. Pay attention to its position when switched on relative to the groove walls. The finger must be located strictly parallel to the groove walls, otherwise it will jam when switching, and this is clearly unacceptable.

When installing the needle bar drive rod when zigzagging, place the washer according to Figure 153.

Fig. 153.
(car "Veritas" -8014-43 class):

Before installing the zigzag unit on the machine, install the control knobs. Set the stitch switch to the front, and set the stitch switch to position 4. Then the tracing lever will move to the fourth track of the front plastic drum and the needle will sew a straight stitch.

Place the program selector knob with the large hole in the sleeve facing up. When switching from one track to another, the traverse lever rises up to a height of 2 mm, then moves horizontally by a distance equal to the thickness of the track, and drops from a height of 2 mm to a new track, i.e. when switching the traverse lever makes three movements: up - horizontally - down. And since all these movements are performed in a split second, it seems that the lever is jumping. If he does not do them, he will catch on the ledge on the adjacent plastic disk and (or) will not switch the line or break.

If, when switching, the tracing lever moves smoothly, without sharp vertical vibrations, then at the point 7 (see fig. 148) no thrust contact 6 with adjusting screw 1 - a gap has formed. It can be eliminated like this. Loosen the lock nut 4 and tighten the adjusting screw 1 , at the same time, remember that the tracer levers should exert minimal pressure on the tracks of the plastic drums. After clamping the lock nut 4 check if the needle is out of order in the slot in the needle plate and on the hook. When switching to the first track (front drum - large zigzag), check whether the tracer arm is easily and without distortions on the track. If the lever feels tight, file the wall of the zigzag block frame with a flat, simple file. There should be no interference over the entire range of motion of the frame with copier levers. If there are any, remove them by cutting or re-adjusting. Interference can be either on the frame of the zigzag block, or on the inner surfaces of the machine arm.

Reminder! If, when the machine is running, the tracer arm on its track does not touch the plastic drum, release the lock nut 4 (see fig. 148) and tighten the adjusting screw 1 , tighten the lock nut.

If there is a knock in the machine due to a large gap in the gearing (main shaft - zigzag unit), you must loosen the screws 4 and 3 ( ), turn the dial 2 counterclockwise by 5-6 ° of the central angle. Then tighten the screw 4 and check the ease of movement. If the knocking persists or the machine has a hard move, readjust. The absence of knocking and heavy running is evidence of the correct adjustment. Screw 3 clamp the wedge-shaped section, otherwise it will change its position and the gap will increase or decrease. If by turning the dial 2 the backlash in the gearing is not removed, replace the disc with foil gaskets.

Rice. 154. Zigzag gear gap adjustment unit
(car "Veritas" -8014-43 class):

This machine has a sophisticated upper thread tension regulator. It is relatively easy to disassemble it, but an ignorant person cannot assemble it correctly (without a diagram). Therefore, in the figure the diagram of the regulator device is given. The names of the parts and their numbering are arranged in the sequence in which the assembly should be performed.

Rice. 155. Upper thread tension regulator ("Veritas" -8014-43):

Fault: no material feed. The toothed rack (without moving) makes an oscillatory movement up and down. Reason: The screw that secures the stage to the car has turned off.

To eliminate the malfunction, remove the electric motor, friction screw, friction washer, flywheel. Unscrew the three screws on the right-hand end cover and remove it. The mechanism shown in the picture is now visible. .

Fig. 156.
("Veritas" -8014-43):

Fasten the screw 4 ... Check the operation of the toothed rack. Collect everything in reverse order.

Breakage of the tide on the sleeve, through which the centering pin passes and the sleeve is attached to the frame.

Repair comes down to operations:

1. Remove the sleeve from the platform.
2. Place the broken part of the tide on epoxy glue.
3. Make a bracket on the broken part of the tide and put it on two screws.
4. Make a steel bar with the size L = 30 mm in cross-section (square with a side of 15 mm).
5. Place the steel bar close to the tide.
6. Attach the sleeve to the frame with a 35xM8 screw. The screw must pass the boss and the steel bar by 12 mm.
7. Seal this repair unit with a multi-purpose epoxy adhesive.
8. In the lid, remove the part of the partition that falls on the repair unit.

When a longitudinal play of the main shaft appears, which happens when both screws are loosened on the stop ring of the main bearing, it is necessary to move the main shaft towards the flywheel, and move the stop ring to the left, close to the main bearing, and tighten both set screws on the stop ring.

Good luck with the repair!

All the best, writeto © 2010

In photo 1, sewing machine Veritas 8014/2.

Photo 1.

In photo 2, the numbers show the details of the machine:

Before setting up the machine, acquaintance with the machine's units, since my names of the units do not correspond to the passport of the given machine.

1. Platform.

The platform contains:

1. Stitch plate.
2. Access cover, to the bobbin case.
3. Switch, conveyor block heights, relative to top, throat plate.
4. The place where the class of the given car is written.
5. The Sleeve is attached to platform No. 1.

On the sleeve are:

1. Stitch length regulator.
2. Adjuster, zigzag width.
3. Knob, line selection.
4. Tension regulator, upper thread.
5. Front cover.
6. Top cover.
7. Flywheel.
8. Clutch screw.

Photo 2.

In photo 3, the inscription on the bend of the sleeve.

Photo 3.

In photo 4, the top cover is removed.

The whole mechanism is divided into five sections:

1. Main shaft drive mechanism.
2. Transfer mechanisms - at the bottom of the platform.
3. The zigzag mechanism is divided into two sections:

1. Needle switch mechanism:

1. to the left, relative to the center of the foot.
2. in the center of the foot.
3. to the right of the center of the foot.

1. Zigzag mechanism.

1. Crank mechanism.
2. Frontal part.

Photo 4.

1. Main shaft drive mechanism.

   Malfunctions of this unit, found on different machines and how to fix them:

1. On screw number 3, grooves are worn out, for a screwdriver- such a screw must be drilled with a thin drill.
2. Screw no. 3 turned out, but screw no. 2 (clutch screw) - insert a rod made of non-ferrous metal into hole No. 3 (as deep as possible), and hit not at the butt end, but along the cross of the rod, to unscrew the clutch screw! The main thing is not to damage the thread!
3. After lubrication and correct assembly, when sewing thick material, the flywheel slips - The antennae are worn out! It is necessary to fuse 1 - 2 mm of tin on the tops of the "antennae". Such a washer will work for another 1 - 3 years! Then the surfacing operation can be repeated.
4. A thread is wound between the flywheel and the hub.- The thread needs to be cut off - with a fragment of a hacksaw blade for metal and pulled out with pliers. Only after that, you can try to unscrew the clutch screw as described in point No. 2.

In photo 5, clutch screw.

The clutch screw is the screw that presses the flywheel to the largest diameter of the bushing. On which the flywheel either rotates - independently, or rotates in place with a curly sleeve

1. Flywheel.
2. Clutch screw.
3. Limiting screw, clutch screw.

Before unscrewing the clutch screw No. 2, it is necessary to loosen by 3 - 4 turns, screw No. 3! And only after that - you can unscrew the large screw number 2 - completely.

Photo 5.

In photo 6, the screw of the friction clutch is unscrewed, under it is the washer.

1. Remove the washer!
2. Pull the flywheel off the bushing - (put on the main shaft and pinned).
3. Remove the old grease from the bushing surface by wiping the outer surface of the bushing with sandpaper.
4. On the surface of the bushing and inside the bushing - 1 - 2 drops of oil And 18 A. Oil for sewing machines!

If, when assembling the washer, put the antennae in the bottom, the machine will skid!

If, having assembled this knot, you have nowhere to screw in a small screw, this is not a problem. Disassemble, once again and unfold the ring with "ears" 180 degrees. I do it, too, every other time.

Photo 6.

In photo 7, washer with "ears" and "antennae".

Photo 7.

1. Transfer mechanisms - at the bottom of the platform.

In photo 8, movement transmission mechanism, bottom of the platform.

The numbers show the details - of this mechanism:

1. The right bushing is the main shaft.

All bushings of the sewing machine are sleeve bearings!

1. Main shaft.

The main shaft, on all machines, transmits the rotational motion to the crank!

1. Eccentric on the main shaft.

Main shaft eccentric - converts rotary motion into oscillatory!

1. Upper part - rods with a fork.

Traction with a fork - transfers oscillatory movements, to the bottom of the platform, to advance the material - with a conveyor block.

1. The head is a tie rod with a clamp.

Clamp rod - transfers oscillatory movements, to the bottom of the platform, to raise and lower the material - with a conveyor block.

1. Belt with braces.

Brace strap - transfers rotational movements- to the shuttle.

Eccentric bushing adjustment:

Happens on all sewing machines due to vibration and lack of lubrication, fastening screws Eccentric bushings, turn away... It starts like this:

1. When sewing, thin fabrics pull together.
2. It stops promoting. The needle is marking time.
3. The stitch length is 4 mm, then 1 mm.

Examination:

Turning the handwheel, lower the needle bar to the lowest point. In this case, the conveyor block should also drop below the needle plate to the lowest point.

Preparing to set up:

1. Raise the foot.
2. Remove the needle.
3. Take out the material.
4. Pull out the upper thread.
5. Lever - regulator - stitch length, put in position: as far away as possible.
6. Turning the flywheel, with the hand on ourselves, we observe the actions of the needle and the conveyor block.
7. Turning the handwheel, we raise the needle bar to the highest point. In this case, the conveyor block must also rise, above the stitch plate, to the highest point. If this did not happen then:

Setting:

1. We loosen the screws, fasteners, eccentric bush more.
2. Turning the handwheel, we raise the needle bar to the highest point.
3. Keep the flywheel free from turning! We turn the Eccentric bushing, in the fork, around the main, crankshaft. So that - the top of the teeth, the conveyor block, rises higher, the stitch plate, to its highest position. When a little more and they start, they go down.
4. In this position, tighten the fastening screws, onEccentric bushing.

In practice, this is done like this:

1. Turn out one screw completely.
2. Instead of a screw, screw in a pin, or a longer screw.
3. And use this screw as a lever to turn eccentric bush, around the axis, the main crankshaft.
4. As soon as you put up the semi-unscrewed screw, tighten it!
5. Turn the flywheel, and replace the stud screwed in by us with a screw!

Examination:

Rotating the handwheel, Raise the needle bar rod to the highest point. In this case, the conveyor block must also rise, above the stitch plate, to the highest point.

Photo 8.

1. Zigzag mechanism.

1. Needle switching mechanism - consists of:

1. Shift Knob - Needle Position - Relative to the center of the hole in the throat plate.
2. Cam.
3. Cam lock.
4. Shaft - axis, shift knobs No. 1.
5. The cam is a prototype of the tracing disc.
6. Copier of a copy disk.

Principle of operation:

Rotating to the right or left the handle for switching the positions of the needle No. 1, the shaft or axis No. 4 rotates. On this axis, under No. 2, the cam is fixed by the latch No. 3. That is, Copier No. 6, reads the position of the cam No. 5 (dropping or rising) transmits movement to the needle bar frame. (top of the needle bar frame, shown in photo 13 ). At each position of cam # 5, the needle bar moves to a new position.

In photo 9, Needle switch mechanism.

See photo 35.

Photo 9.

On the photo 9-1, knob for switching the position of the needle relative to the needle plate. The handle is now set to L-1.

Photo 9-1.

On the photo 9-2, the needle to the left, relative to the center of the stitch plate.

Photo 9-2

On the photo 9-3, handle in position M - 2.

Photo 9-3.

On the photo 9-4, The needle corresponds to the axis of the hole in the throat plate.

Photo 9-4.

On the photo 9-5, handle in position R - 3.

Photo 9-5.

On the photo 9-6, the needle goes down and up, in the extreme right position.

Photo 9-6.

In photo 9-7, - "Needle switch knob", in position M - 4.

On the photo 9-8, in positions M - 2 and R - 4, the needle again, in the middle of the needle hole.

Photo 9-8.

1. Zigzag mechanism.

In photo 10, zigzag mechanism.

1. Zigzag width handle.
2. Axis - on which are located:

1. Rod with a clamp.
2. Video clip.
3. Crackers.

1. Crackers.
2. Fork with clamp.
3. Rod connecting the zigzag block with the needle bar frame.
4. Worm wheel.
5. Main shaft.

Photo 10.

In photo 11, zigzag mechanism.

1. Zigzag width handle axis.
2. Pull - connects the handle to the zigzag frame.
3. Zigzag frame cheek.
4. The place where the croutons move.

Photo 11.

In photo 12, zigzag mechanism.

1. Worm.
2. Worm wheel.
3. Eccentric - worm wheel.
4. The frame is a zigzag.
5. Cheek.
6. Video clip.
7. Earring - connects the zigzag width handle to the axis of the crouton.
8. Fork with clamp.
9. Pull - connects the handle to the zigzag frame.

Principle of operation:

When switching the handle - the width of the zigzag, the rod No. 9 through the shackle No. 7, lowers the cracker.

When the main shaft rotates, the worm No. 1 rotates. The worm transfers the rotary motion to the eccentric No. 3. The eccentric converts the rotary motion into translational motion. Transferring this movement to the ZigZag Frame. The lower part of the frame is like "cheeks" between which the eccentric rotates. From the touch, the eccentric protrusions - the cheeks, the frame sways.

The lower the crouton, the wider the zigzag width. The closer to the cheeks, the greater the range of motion, from side to side - more. This movement is through the # 8 fork put on the # 6 roller and is transferred to the needle bar frame.

Photo 12.

1. Crank mechanism.

In photo 13, crank mechanism.

1. Connecting rod - connects the zigzag unit to the needle bar frame.
2. Needle bar frame - top view.
3. The crank is the left end of the main shaft.
4. Connecting shackle - thread take-up.
5. Thread take-up support bracket.
6. Thread take-up.
7. The groove in which the Thread take-up moves.

All screws on the crank must be tightened! And in the holes of the parts, drop a drop of oil. This mechanism never breaks down!

Photo 13.

In photo 14, Front part with open lid.

Photo 14.

1. Frontal mechanism.

In photo 15, front part mechanism.

1. Needle bar frame.
2. Clamp with needle bar screw.
3. The fixing screw is the lower needle bar bushing.
4. The rod is the needle bar.
5. Needle holder.
6. Needle.
7. Foot.
8. Foot fixing screw.
9. The stem is the paws.
10. Bottom bushing, pins-pins.
11. Lever for raising and lowering the rod - legs.
12. Clamp with rod screw - feet.
13. Pressure spring - pressing on the clamp of the foot bar.
14. Pressing bracket - presses when lifting the lever No. 11 on the rod - the pusher РНВН.
15. Pin - pusher, Upper Thread Tension Regulator.

Photo 15.

In photo 16, needle holder.

The arrow points to the screw that secures the needle. The slots are torn off on it - replacement is required.

In photo 17, Platform Bottom Mechanism.

I divide into two parts:

1. Material promotion,
2. Shuttle rotation.

1. Receiving mechanisms of movements:

1. Lifting and lowering the conveyor block.
2. Material promotion,
3. Shuttle rotation.

photo 17.

1. Intermediate mechanisms of movements, the bottom of the platform.

In photo 18, Intermediate mechanisms of movements, the bottom of the platform.

1. Bottom traction with fork.
2. The bottom of the pull rod with a clamp.
3. Belt with braces.

A shaft is a rod that rotates 360 degrees. A rod that rotates at a smaller angle is called a bracket. In our case, the rods have a cylindrical shape, that is, the shafts. But they turn at angles no more than 180 degrees. Therefore, they are called: shaft - bracket.

1. Shaft transmitting rotary motion to gears - shuttle.
2. Shaft - bracket, transmits movement from the lifting lever of the conveyor shoe - finger in photo 19.
3. Nylon bracket.
4. Clamp fixing screw - tie rods with a fork.
5. Clamp fixing screw - tie rods with clamp.

If your feed shoe hits the back of the groove in the throat plate, then this setting is for you! See Photo 18-1.

Photo 18.

In photo 18-1, Malfunction: With a stitch length of 4 mm, the back of the feed shoe hits the back of the groove in the throat plate.

The procedure for an exhibition, a conveyor block, for the promotion of material.

1. With the stitch plate in place, place the machine on the back of the sleeve.
2. Knob, stitch length, set to zero.
3. Using the flywheel, lift the needle bar up. The transport block will also take the upper position.
4. By photo 18, loosen the screw on the bracket № 9 ... He is under a screwdriver.
5. Rotate around the axis, shaft - bracket screw No. 9 is screwed into it, transmitting movement, conveyor block, to advance the material. So that the conveyor block stands in the middle of the grooves of the needle plate.
6. In this position, screw on bracket No. 9, tighten!

Examination:

1. Stitch length adjuster, for the maximum stitch length.
2. Lower and raise the needle using the flywheel.
3. Move the reverse lever to the maximum value.

If there is jamming, loosen screw No. 9, and move back the conveyor block by 1 mm. The gap between the far grooves in the stitch plate, when moving away from you and the near grooves, when sewing towards yourself, should be the same!

Photo 18-1.

1. Receiving mechanisms of movements

In photo 19, shuttle mechanism.

The numbers show the details:

1. Shaft - transmitting rotation to the shuttle gears.
2. The shaft is a bracket that transmits the movement to the advance of the material with a conveyor block.
3. Screw for securing the left sleeve, shaft No. 1.
4. Protective cover - inner part.
5. Protective cover - outer part.

Protective cover - protects gears - from direct ingress of threads and dust into them!

1. Shuttle.
2. Positioning finger.
3. Dowel bolt.
4. The shaft is a bracket that transmits the movement to the advance of the material with a conveyor block.
5. Bracket - the transport block is attached to it.
6. The place of attachment of the conveyor block - bottom view.
7. Transport block.
8. The shaft is a bracket that transmits the movement to raise and lower the conveyor shoe.
9. Bracket screw - bracket shaft # 13.
10. Connecting rod - bracket Photo 18 No. 8, transmits movement from the lift lever (on the platform) - finger.
11. Finger.
12. Bracket - a finger fits into it.

The lever of photo 2 No. 4 has three positions:

1. The left one - the conveyor block when sewing - is always under the needle plate. (Darning; embroidery in the hoop).
2. Upright position - conveyor block when sewing - teeth slightly protrude above the surface of the needle plate - (Sewing silk fabrics).
3. Right - Sewing all other types of fabric.

When sewing heavily fuzzy types of fabric, there is a need to raise the top of the teeth - the conveyor block by 0.5 mm.

This is done like this:

1. The needle bar is raised to the top with the flywheel (0).
2. Loosen screw No. 14.
3. Bracket 10 - raise it by 0.5 mm - look at the teeth and the surface of the needle plate.
4. In this position, tighten screw No. 14!

Photo 19.

In photo 20, view through the conveyor block, on the shuttle.

1. Transport block.
2. Transport shoe fastening screw.
3. Positioning finger.
4. Shuttle bobbin.

Photo 20.

In photo 21 , view of the shuttle, from left to right.

1. Landing place - conveyor block.
2. Needle.
3. Needle flat.
4. Positioning finger.
5. Bobbin.
6. Shuttle.
7. The nylon gear is on the shuttle shaft.
8. Shuttle shaft.
9. Hole in the bobbin.

Photo 21.

In photo 22, the moment the shuttle nose crosses, the flat of the needle, in the straight stitch position.

Photo 22.

In photo 23, shuttle drive mechanism.

Details Shown - Shuttle Unit:

1. Mounting screw - locating pin.
2. Positioning finger.
3. Restriction ring - installed on the shuttle shaft.
4. Location - where the gap should be (0) zero!
5. Bushing - shuttle shaft.
6. Shuttle.
7. Stop Ring - Shaft Mounted shuttle drive.
8. Shuttle shaft.
9. The hole contains the fastening screw, the lower sleeve is the shuttle shaft.
10. Hole - there is a fastening screw in it, left sleeve - shuttle drive shaft.
11. Left sleeve - of the shuttle drive shaft.
12. Helical - vertical - gear, on the drive shaft, shuttle shaft.
13. Horizontal- helical gear, on the shuttle shaft.

1. Shuttle vertical exhibition:

Note!

Often seamstresses complain:

The machine when sewing - gives out stitch skips and needles break.

This is one of the settings to prevent these phenomena.

Examination!

Grab the shuttle and pull it up and down!

If you feel vertical movement, then this setting is for your car! If you do not feel it, then the problem is elsewhere. (but more on that later).

1. Disconnect the electric drive. From the socket.
2. Remove the machine from the box or table.
3. Put on the back - sleeves.
4. Take off outer casing from gears - shuttle mechanism.

If gear number 12 moves to the left and to the right you need:

1. Loosen the screws on the spacer sleeve no. 7.
2. Press pinion # 12 into bushing # 11.
3. Screws on the spacer sleeve No. 7 - clamp it down!

This will prevent premature wear - of the gear teeth!

1. On the photo 23, shown screw No. 10 and sleeve No. 11. Loosen the screw, knock the sleeve to the nylon gear No. 12 - on which the belt with brackets - with a gap of 0.1 mm. And slide No. 7 to the sleeve.

0.1 mm - if you pull the shaft to the left and to the right, there is a feeling of shift, but you cannot see it by eye!

1. Loosen the screws on the spacer sleeve No. 3.
2. Rotating the handwheel - lower the needle inserted into the needle bar to the lowest point zero. Bottom (0).
3. We continue to rotate the flywheel - we follow the slowly rising needle and the ingrown nose of the shuttle.

As soon as the point of the hook crosses the vertical axis of the needle, stop the rotation of the handwheel!

The gap between the surface of the flat of the needle and the plane of the nose of the shuttle should be within 0.1 - 0.13 mm.

1. Shuttle nose - raise by 0.1 - 0.13 mm gap. (Knocking the shuttle shaft up!)
2. Spacer washer No. 3 - lift and pressing against sleeve No. 4 - tighten at least one screw.
3. Turning the flywheel - Screw in and tighten both screws

Examination!

The gap between the surface of the flat of the needle and the plane of the nose of the shuttle should be within 0.1 - 0.13 mm. There will be less - broken needles! There will be more - stitch skipping guaranteed!

Adjustment to needle No. 100.

If thick fabrics are sewn on the machine - and needles no. 120 or no. 130 are installed on these numbers - it will be necessary to re-adjust the hook height again, lowering it to the bottom. Since the clearance on these needles will be zero. And the breakage of the needles will lead to dullness of the shuttle nose.

Photo 23.

In photo 24, shuttle details.

1. Bobbin.
2. The seat is the locating pin.
3. Shuttle nose tip.
4. Hole in the bobbin.
5. Presser - limiting - overhead plate.
6. Plate - "Dovetail".
7. Bobbin.
8. Shuttle body.
9. The lower part is a shuttle.
10. The screw for attaching the shuttle to the shuttle shaft.

When replacing the shuttle, these screws are loosened, the shuttle is removed to the top and a new one is put on! See provisions - exhibitions, on photos 37 and 38.

1. The inner hole is a shuttle. It is called a seat.

Photo 24.

In photo 25, depicts the shuttle shown in the books, it consists of:

1. Spring screw, bobbin case.
2. Second screw, bobbin case springs.
3. Spring, bobbin case.
4. Latch, bobbin case.
5. Landing axis, bobbin case, in the bobbin case.
6. Seat, in the bobbin, for the locating pin.
7. Bobbin belt.
8. Technological holes.
9. Thread guard screw.
10. Thread fuse. - I call the plate "Dovetail".
11. Seat, bobbin belts.
12. Seat, thread fuse. "Dovetail".
13. Screws, 3 of them, shuttle attachments to the shuttle shaft.
14. Cogs, there are 3 of them, attachment of the patch plate.
15. Cover plate.
16. Large, technological hole in the shuttle.
17. Shuttle nose.
18. Thread gripping slot in the bobbin girdle.
19. Positioning finger. Photo 6.
20. The screw securing the setting pin to the machine body.
21. The plate is the body of the locating pin.
22. Half hole, for fixing, latch, bobbin case.
23. Bobbin thread guide.
24. Bobbin. Spool.
25. Hole for removing the lower thread from the cap. But the machine works well without threading it.
26. Pin shaft, bobbin case latches.
27. Cam, handles, latches.
28. Cover plate, bobbin case.
29. Locking screw, cover plate. Designed to limit travel, cover plate.
30. Lock, overlay plate.
31. Tongue, slip plate.
32. The handle is a latch.
33. The spring, against which the tongue rests, of the overhead plate.
34. Lock slot in the bobbin case.
35. Spring seat in the bobbin case.
36. Restriction hole, for cam, handles-latches.

Photo 25.

In photo 26, the arrow shows - ("deplorable") place, the tip - the nose of the shuttle.

This is what the breakage of the needles leads to - to the dullness of the shuttle nose.

Photo 26.

In photo 27, shuttle disassembled.

1. Pressure plate.
2. Shuttle body.
3. Dovetail. Or thread guide plate.

Photo 27.

In photo 28, the sharpening of the spout, shuttle is shown, for all machines with this kind of shuttle.

Blunt nose, these are skipped stitches! You can't sharpen from the top and the outside! Otherwise, the shuttle will have to be thrown away! The red lines show the plane to be sharpened! The point of the shuttle must be as sharp as the point of the needle!

Photo 28.

In photo 29, thread guide plate, shuttle. - " Dovetail".

The needle broke - a notch. Shuttle jammed - notch.

The red lines show the places where the notches are formed. If there is at least one notch on this edge, the machine will tear the upper thread, even when sewing fine fabrics.

Elimination method.

When at least one notch appears, it is necessary to remove a layer of metal, along the entire length of this rib, to the depth of the notch. Then walk, with polishing sandpaper, or even better, polish, on a felt wheel.

At the place where the notch appears, an experienced mechanic will immediately tell you what happened to the machine. For frequent thread breaks, look here!

Photo 29.

In photo 30, descending needle in position - Needle point, flush with the imaginary plane, "Dovetail"

This is how I check to see if the hook is turned against the drop needle.

Photo 30.

In photo 31, The needle dropped to the lowest point zero (0).

Note!

We slowly rotate the flywheel towards ourselves. The needle dropped to the lowest point zero (0). Top of the needle hole, flush with the bottom edge of the bobbin.

It can be said that the flat of the needle is not parallel to the plane of the shuttle. Such an arrangement of the needle will lead to rapid wear of the nose, shuttle.

You need to do the following:

1. Check the needle. On the parallelism of the slot on the ampoule, with a flat on the stem.

1. Not in parallel - replace the needle.
2. Rotate the needle bar with the needle inserted around the axis. So that the flat of the needle is parallel to the plane of the shuttle. And at the same time, the top of the needle hole was flush with the bottom edge of the bobbin. By loosening the screw No. 2 Photo 15.

Photo 31.

In photo 32, intersection of the tip of the shuttle nose and the vertical axis of the needle.

1. while slowly rotating the handwheel, the needle, being in the straight stitch position, rose by 1.5 - 1.8 mm.
2. And the flat of the needle crossed with the nose of the shuttle. This should happen exactly in the middle of the flat, the needle. (In position - straight stitch).

Photo 32.

On the photo 33 the same as on photo 32, only a side view.

The main goal of the shuttle show:

1. The gap between the flat of the needle and the nose of the hook should be 0.1 mm.
2. The gap between the bobbin and the locating pin is 0.8 -1.5 mm.
3. The top of the spout of the locating pin should be 1 mm higher than the bobbin.

The locating pin should fit into the bobbin groove, halfway through the groove. By loosening the screw No. 8 Photo 19, the setting finger can be adjusted!

Photo 33.

In photo 34, the needle at the exit is flush with the surface of the shuttle.

Turning the flywheel, we follow the exit of the needle - from the surface of the shuttle.

1. The corner of the plate is "dovetail" and needle point, flush with the hook surface.
2. Correct position - when behind the needle, there is the first screw securing the plate - "dovetail"... (red arrow - points to the screw).

Photo 34.

Exposure of the needle, along the edges of the hole, in the stitch plate.

See also description, before photo 9.

In photo 35, hole in the throat plate. And three needle positions:

1. Needle on the left injection.
2. Center needle.
3. The needle is on the right injection.

Photos 35.

In photo 36, the trajectories are shown - the intersection of the shuttle nose, the needle flats - in three positions.

Photo 36,

In photo 37, the needle on the left injection.

1. Shuttle nose.
2. Positioning finger.
3. Hole in the needle.

Photo 37.

In photo 38. the needle on the right injection.

The numbers show the main details in this setting:

1. Shuttle nose.
2. Positioning finger.
3. Hole in the needle.
4. Green color - the vertical axis of the needle is shown.

The point of the shuttle nose - when the shuttle is showing - must be strictly - on this vertical axis!

Photo 38.

In photo 39, malfunctions are shown.

If at least one fault is detected, one of the following requires adjustment:

1. Small gap - between the locating pin and the bobbin! On photo 31 - the norm!

The absence of a gap is the looping of the upper thread from the bottom - jamming of the hook!

1. Large gap - between the needle and the hook nose! Photo 20!

Large gaps are stitch skips! In this form - you need to set the height of the shuttle shaft, relative to the flat of the needle!

1. Blunt nose - shuttle! See photo 24!

Blunt nose - nose sharpening required! Skipped stitches - needle breakage!

1. The needle bar is not installed correctly! Photo 16 No. 11

1. Needle - marriage!
2. The needle bar - must be lowered - at the intersection of the flat with the spout!
3. Needle bar with needle, turn around!

Conclusion!

Considering the totality of such a number of faults in photo 36-1, it can be assumed that the belt with brackets is not correctly installed on the lower plastic drum.

Photo 39.

In photo 40 the arrow points to the RNVN fastening screw.

Photo 40.

In photo 41, regulator removed from the machine.

Loosen this screw by 1 - 3 half turns. you can take out the PHVN axis.

Photo 41.

In photo 42, RNVN disassembled.

Here is a list of parts, from left to right:

1. Base.
2. An axial rod is inserted into the base.
3. On the rod, a compensation spring.
4. Inside, a pusher rod is inserted. One edge, with plus. L -27 mm. Diameter 1.8 - 2 mm.

Rod - pusher, inside the axial rod, should walk easily, without jamming.

1. The pivot bar is inserted into the base.

In the place where a slot is made on the base, under the compensation spring. And then it turns at such an angle that the bottom of the compensation spring does not reach the right stop - 0.5 mm. Here, in such a position, I clamped the screw on the base.

1. Now on the axle, I put on a small washer number 5.

A small washer protects the spring coil from jumping out of the base. It is advisable when making the base, to make the inner diameter not 10.5 but 11.5 mm. So that the compensation spring is not so cramped.

1. Now, we put on the first plate, on the axial rod number 6.
2. Spacer washer, so that you can sew on the machine with two threads No. 7.
3. The second plate, with the curved part, to the spacer washer No. 8.
4. Washer with jumper No. 9. Curved jumper, to the side, of the push nut. Very often, it is installed back to front.
5. Now the big # 10 washer. Rectangular slot at the top.

On the photo 42, the part that is shown at the top is placed on the axial rod, facing the curved part, washers with a jumper. On the photo 42 puck # 10 is upside down.

1. A spring with a wide end, to a cylindrical washer, a bent end of the spring, into a slot, of an axial rod. tighten the nut.

Photo 42.

On the photo 43, axial bar - axis. This is a sketch for a turner. It breaks sometimes. After grinding, heat treatment is necessary, since the thread, abrasive and very quickly, will grind the axis.

Photo 43.

On the photo 44, again a sketch for a turner. This is the foundation. The part that is inserted into the body of the machine.

Photo 44.

Moving on to adjusting the thread tension:

First of all, select the bobbins !

In photo 45, the bobbin is inserted into the cap. The stitch plate is superimposed on top.

The bobbin is in height, matches the edges of the bobbin case.

Photo 45.

On the photo 46, shown as correct, you need install the bobbin into the cap.

Here's what you need to pay attention to:

1. A groove in the bobbin for the thread to enter the cap. Must not have sharp edges!
2. Cap spring. Should not have scuffs on the inside!
3. The adjusting screw, when tightened, grips the thread more tightly. At the spring, when the screw is unscrewed, the pressure weakens.

We twist, clockwise, twist counterclockwise! And there should not be, on the screw, sharp splines and burrs on them! We cut it off with a file.

1. Seat, bobbins. There should be no dust and flecks in it!
2. Bobbin. Must match the size of the bobbin case! Rotate freely!
3. A thread.

Photo 46.

On the photo 47, shown as adjust, spring screw, on the cap:

1. We take by the thread, the cap with the bobbin hangs. Photo 47. The thread does not pull. If it is pulled out, we tighten the screw, 1 - 2 turns.

The bobbin case, with the bobbin correctly positioned, must hang on this thread!

1. Few - Tighten the screw, on the bobbin case, another 0.5 turn, clockwise.
2. We take up the thread for testing. Few?
3. Another 0.5 turn, twist and try.

Photo 47.

In photo 48, bobbin case after shaking.

1. Everything is hanging!
2. Now, lightly shake the bobbin case.

The threads should be fed from 5 - 15 cm, depending on the strength of the shaking. But the bobbin case should hang in the air again. And the thread from it should not spontaneously unwind!

Photo 48.

Moving on to adjusting the upper thread:

The guideline for adjustment is the thread tension, in stitching!

When changing the thickness of the thread, between the plates, tighten the nut, if the thread is thinner, unscrew it. If the thread is tightly pinched, it will break.

If the thread is thicker, unscrew it. Imagine that one full turn of the nut is a watch face.

So, having made a mark on the nut - with a felt-tip pen, you need to tighten it for 15 minutes, a little for another 15 minutes, a lot - loosen it by 7.5 minutes. Then by - 3.25, etc. If knots are visible at the top, in the line, it is the upper thread that is tightly stretched. If we lift the material, then we will see the bobbin thread. If it is free and not pulled into the punctures of the needle, this means that the upper thread is loosely clamped in the plates.

Example Photo 49:

The bobbin thread is not taut in the bobbin case. Then this photo suggests that the upper thread should be loosened. That is, unscrew the nut for 15 minutes. Flash! Few? Another 15 minutes. Until a line appears like in photo 51.

Photo 49.

In photo 50, The upper thread, in the saucers, is severely weakened. You need to tighten the upper thread. To do this, tighten the nut for 7.5 minutes! Few? Another 3.2 minutes. Until a line appears like in photo 51.

Photo 50.

In photo 51, Thread tension, adjusted correctly! But in order to see such a line, it is necessary to tear off the threads from the sewn piece of fabric. And try to slightly separate the upper fabric from the lower one, like in photo 52.

Photo 51.

In photo 52, the thread tension is adjusted correctly! The interlacing of the threads occurs strictly along the axis of the materials to be sewn.

Maintenance elements of the SuperProgram sewing machine

1	Flywheel	18	Yarn guide
2	Winder stop	19	Needle fixing screw
3	Winder spindle	20	Machine class designation
4	Reel rods	21	Top tension adjuster threads
5	5. Regulator of pre-tension of a thread	22
6	Yarn guides	23	Pattern selection knob
7	Sleeve cover	24	Program switch knob
8	Eye of the thread take-up lever	25	Switch for crafting loops
9	Light switch	26	Shift lever
10	Front cover	27	Sample table
11	Thread eyelet	28	Stitch adjustment knob
12	Presser foot fixing screw	29	Reverse shift lever line stroke
13	Presser foot	30	Conveyor lowering lever
14	Throat plate	31	Sight glass
15	Retractable plate	32	Flywheel freewheel screw wheels
16	Conveyor	33	Index letters and number cars
17	Needle

Attention!All necessary work on the electrically powered sewing machine, such as changing the needle, changing the presser foot, changing the V-belt, threading, etc., should only be done after removing your foot from the ballast, so that if you accidentally move your foot, you will not start the machine. action

General instructions

2. Basic Rules

Turn the flywheel towards yourself only.
-Before starting sewing, be sure to lower the presser foot.
-Start the machine with the thread threaded only with the fabric under the foot.
-Do not pull or move the fabric while sewing.
-In the idle position of the machine, switching levers and buttons can be carried out if the needle is raised above the fabric.
-Make sure the machine is clean and lubricated with oil regularly (also oil the machine before sewing for the first time).
-Before and after sewing, each time raise the thread take-up lever 8 to the highest position. This will prevent the thread from pinching, and in addition, the finished work is easier to take out.
- Make sure that the feed lowering lever 30 is moved to the right side for sewing (section 15)

3. (fig. 2)

The needles are used with the 705 or 130 systems.

By turning the handwheel, the needle is set to the uppermost position. Then unscrew the fixing screw and remove the needle or the remainder of the broken needle.
Insert a new needle with your left hand. Turning the flat side of the thickened part of the needle back, the needle is inserted into the needle holder and into the slot of the rod until it stops. Then tighten the screw to secure the needle.
The thread groove on the needle is located at the front. The thread is threaded from front to back. An incorrectly inserted needle or not fully inserted will cause thread breakage and skipped stitches.

4. Needle and thread
In addition to the correct thread tension, it is necessary to match the thickness of the needle, thread and fabric to be sewn. Very fine needles break when sewing thick fabrics and thick threads. Thick needles make large punctures in fine fabrics and degrade the appearance of the stitch. When skipping stitches and thread breakage, the needle is changed to a new needle, the number of which corresponds to the thread thickness (section 3).
Mismatched, crooked and dull needles create unsightly seams, skipped stitches and thread breaks.
Do not allow the bobbin thread to be thicker than the upper thread.
The thickness of the bobbin thread should be the same or thinner than the upper thread.

5. Switching the sewing mechanism on and off

The sewing mechanism is activated by turning the screw disk 32 in the direction of the arrow "b". In this case, with the left hand, hold the flywheel 1 (Fig. 3).
The sewing mechanism is disabled to wind the bobbin. To do this, hold the flywheel with your left hand, and with your right hand turn the screw disk in the direction of the boom "a" (Fig. 3)

6. (fig. 4)

By rotating the handwheel, the thread take-up lever is set to the uppermost position. Then slide the slide plate 15 and open the bobbin case latch 47 with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand through the hole in the platform and remove the bobbin case with the bobbin (Fig. 4).

The thread is wound onto the bobbin with the sewing mechanism turned off.
After turning off the sewing mechanism (Fig. 3), a spool of thread is put on the spool pin 4. The end of the thread unwound from the spool is wrapped around the yarn feeder 5 and under the clamp to create tension on the thread. Bobbin put on spindle 3 and turn until you enter spindle pin into the groove of the bobbin... After winding the thread several times on the bobbin, the winder is pressed against the flywheel. As soon as the bobbin is wound, the bobbin winder switches off automatically. The winder is wrung out and the bobbin is removed. For the formation of a correct and beautiful seam, it is advisable that the bobbin thread is slightly thinner than the upper thread.

8. (fig. 6)

On the cover of the sewing machine arm there are two rods 4 for bobbins, which, if there is no need for them, can be installed in a horizontal position. For the coil attachment, they are transferred to a vertical position.

Before submerging the top of the machine in the cabinet table, the spool rods should be turned to a horizontal position.

9.

Take the bobbin case with the closed latch with your left hand so that you can insert the bobbin with wound thread into the open part with your right hand. The inserted bobbin should rotate from left to right (clockwise) while pulling out the thread (fig. 7)
Then the thread is pulled through the cut of the bobbin case under the tension spring until it leaves the spout "a" (Fig. 8 and 9).

The thread can also be inserted into the hole in the end face of the bobbin case. It is advisable to do this when sewing with a zigzag stitch, when there are increased requirements for the quality of the seam.

10. Installing the bobbin case
To install the bobbin case, the handwheel 1 is turned until the thread take-up lever 8 is raised to the uppermost position.
For a beginner seamstress, it is recommended to insert the bobbin case while tipping the machine to the side.
Use your thumb to press down on the bobbin case until the bobbin case enters the latch. If the bobbin case does not fit into the stopper, it may cause the needle to break and other damage.

By rotating the flywheel 1, the needle is set to the highest position.
The thread tension in the adjuster 21 is loosened by raising the presser bar rod lifting lever. The upper thread is threaded in the rear and front thread guides 6, then inserted between the two clamping washers of the tension regulator 21, then through the eye of the thread take-up lever 8, the eye for the thread 11 and the thread guide 18. 10
The thread is threaded from front to back. To start work, leave the free end of the thread behind a needle 10 cm long. To facilitate the threading of the upper thread is shown on the front cover. Rice. eleven

12.
The presser foot is designed as a stepped element. The first step is for sewing and darning without the foot. At the second stage, the upper thread tension mechanism is turned off.
After raising the foot to the second step with your left hand, take the free end of the upper thread without pulling it. The flywheel is turned in the direction of the arrow (Fig. 1) one revolution until the thread take-up lever 8 is raised to the uppermost position. Gently pulling out the end of the upper thread, at the same time pulling up the lower thread (fig. 12)
Place both ends of the threads under the foot on the back side (fig. 13).

The stitch length knob 28 is used to set the stitch length for normal seams (fig. 14). Selector lever 29 is for reverse feed and normal stitching of fabric.
On the scale of the knob 28 there are numeric values ​​for setting the stitch length.
If you wish to obtain the same stitch length during reverse feed of the fabric as when sewing forward, then press the switch 29 down as far as it will go (fig. 14). Reverse stitching is for seam reinforcement only.

As a rule, you should:
Sew thin fabrics with fine thread and small stitching steps. Thick fabrics with appropriate thread thickness and large stitching pitches.

It should be borne in mind that the conveyor lowering lever 30 is moved to the right side (the “zigzag” symbol is visible on the lever button).
To obtain super elastic seams, the stitch length dial 28 is set to 4 mm (symbol) This pre-determines the stitch length for the different seams and does not require the seamstress to intervene.

Attention!
When sewing with the symbol, the front and back stitches are programmed. In this case, do not move the reverse stitching lever.

14. Correct tissue management.
At the beginning and at the end of sewing, the thread take-up lever 8 (fig. 1) must be in the uppermost position. The fabric is put under the foot up to the needle, then the foot is lowered, the ends of the lower and upper threads are held with the left hand until several stitches have been made. The fabric is advanced automatically by the machine.
During the sewing process, the fabric should not be pulled, you only need to slightly straighten it with your hands.
Pulling and pushing the fabric will cause the needle to bend or break, which may damage the sewing mechanism.
Hard spots or thick seams should be sewn slowly while turning the flywheel by hand.
In such cases, it is recommended to raise the foot and move the fabric slightly. When sewing very delicate fabrics such as silk, etc., it is recommended to guide the fabric slightly behind the presser foot to prevent the seam from curling. Besides. it is advisable to place thin paper under the fabric.
If you want to sew sharp edges, stop the machine when the needle has risen to the thickness of a finger from the bottom position. Then raise the foot, turn the fabric on the needle in the direction you want, lower the foot, and continue sewing.
The finished work is taken out in the following order: the thread take-up lever 8 is placed in the extreme upper position, the foot is raised and the finished fabric is pulled back. To avoid bending the needle, the thread should slide easily back under the foot.
To create a seam, do not lower the feed dog and do not set the stitch length dial to zero.

Adjust the presser foot pressure according to the type of fabric. Less pressure is required to hold down fine fabrics than thick fabrics. The pressure of the presser foot on the fabric should be such that a uniform advance of the fabric is ensured, and the needle does not catch the fabric during its upward stroke.

To adjust the degree of pressure of the tabs, remove the front cover (section 27). When the adjusting screw is turned to the right, the pressure increases and when it is turned to the left, it decreases (fig. 16).

To replace the foot, the needle is set to the highest position and the rod with the foot is raised. Then unscrew the fastening screw to such an extent that the presser foot can be pulled down obliquely (fig. 17).

18.
On the front of the machine, there is a pattern plate for stitching 27, which shows decorative and work stitches. Separate samples of seams are indicated by digital indicators. On the cover of the sleeve 7 there is a shift lever 26, which moves in the direction of the slot. In accordance with the desired seam, the shift lever is set in the appropriate direction, forward (towards you) or back (away from you).
The central selection knob makes it extremely easy for you to set the various seams (stitches). Use the program selector knob 24 (fig. 18) to select the appropriate program “normal”, (elastic) or “buttonhole” and then use the pattern selection knob to select the required stitch (fig. 19). At the same time, make sure that the shift lever 26 is moved towards the desired seam (forward or backward).
When turning on the program selector knobs and pattern selection knobs, please note that both knobs have set endpoints through which you cannot switch.
Do not turn on the handles and levers while the needle is still in the fabric.

Attention!For seams with the symbol, select a medium sewing speed (600 - 800 rpm).

19. Adjusting the thread tension

BUT)
The thread tension set at the factory is suitable for different thread numbers and different sewing applications. In this regard, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the degree of thread tension by touch. To do this, take the bobbin case with your left hand, and pull the thread out of the cap with your right hand. Thus, one feels what the thread tension should be.
A slight change in the thread clamp is done with the spring screw (fig. 20)
Turning the screw to the left decreases the pressure of the spring on the thread. Turning the screw to the right increases the pressure of the spring on the thread.

Dear customer!
Class 8014/43 will be equipped with two variants of mechanisms for upper thread tension.
Use the description of the mechanism for tensioning the upper thread B or C, depending on the version.

B) (fig. 21)
Turning the knob to the right (clockwise) increases the upper thread tension, while turning it to the left decreases it.
The upper thread tension for all sewing applications is achieved with one turn of the knob, on which there are numeric marks from 0 to 9.
0 to 2 light tension (eg for buttonholes, decorative seams, embroidery).
3 to 6 normal tension
7 to 9 reinforced tension.

C) (fig. 22)

The upper thread tension is adjusted by turning the knob. Turning to the right (in the direction of the + arrow) increases the tension. Turning to the left (in the direction of the arrow -) decreases the thread tension. In order to quickly and coarsely set the thread tension, there is a jumper with a red marking between the tension body and the thread tension knob.
The edge of the handle should be placed on this marking in order to finally adjust the upper thread tension after sewing the control seam.

Correct straight stitch

1. Set the pattern selection knob 23 to 4.
2. Set the program changeover lever to "normal"

The quality of the stitching depends on the correct adjustment of the thread tension. To check, sew a number of seams and check the tension of the upper and lower threads.
The interlacing of the upper and lower threads should be in the middle of the fabric (fig.23a)
If knots and loops are formed on the underside of the fabric, this is a sign that the tension of the upper thread is insufficient or the tension of the lower thread is too high (fig.23 b)
If the formation of knots and loops occurs on the upper side of the fabric, then this is a sign of excessive tension on the upper thread or weak tension on the lower thread (fig.23 c)

If during sewing loops and knots are formed alternately on the upper and lower sides of the fabric, this means that the tension on both threads is insufficient. It is also impractical to set a very strong thread tension, as this can cause the threads to break, especially fine threads.
On very thin fabrics, the upper and lower thread loops are formed on both sides of the fabric

20. Sewing instructions

1. Sewing fabrics folded in two layers.
1.1. Seams for normal loading

a) (fig. 24)
Set the shift lever forward
Program selector knob
set to "normal".
Stitch length 1.5 4 Straight stitch foot No. 511 (order No. 84 00 37 31)
The straight stitch is used for sewing fabric folded in two layers.

b) stitching zipper(fig. 25)
Set the shift lever back


Stitch length 2 - 3

This stitch allows you to sew two layers of fabric while overcasting at the same time. Two pieces of fabric are tucked under the foot so that four straight stitches sew the fabric, and one side stitch is sewn outside the fabric at the very edge, the loops formed during this protect the edge of the fabric from fraying. This stitch can also be used for overcasting fabric edges. For very short stitch lengths, the zipper stitch is an elastic stitch.

in)

Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1 - 2
The edges of the fabric are laid one on top of the other and sewn with a feathery stitch.

G) Knitted stitching is a good flat seam for knitted fabrics(fig. 27)

Set the shift lever back
Program selector knob
set to "normal" Stitch length approx. 1
When sewing with this seam, the edges of the fabrics are superimposed on one another by 5 mm and sewn together.

1.2. Seams for highly elastic material rice. 27a
but) Home overlock

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 3

Zigzag foot No. 34
Stretch straight stitch with simultaneous overcasting is used as a zipper stitch only for stretch fabrics

b) Herringbone stitch(fig. 28)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 7
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
It is necessary to put two pieces of material to each other in a joint and sew them with a herringbone stitch. And with normal sewing, the herringbone stitch is a very elastic seam.

c) (fig. 29)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 6
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
Zigzag foot No. 534
Suitable for overcasting and overcasting. It is a flat, very elastic seam. When sewing with this seam, the edges of the fabric are overlapped by 5 mm and sewn together.
Application area:

• for edging tablecloths
• for sewing on a rubber band
• for sewing and overcasting
• for decoration with a decorative seam

d) (fig. 30)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
Zigzag foot No. 534

Very elastic seam. This stitch is especially suitable for knits where the intermediate stitches reinforce the tightness of the buttonhole.
Application area:
for edging knitwear
for sewing knitwear
for decoration with a decorative seam.

e) Additional adjustment of super elastic seams
When using different qualities and thicknesses of the fabric, it is possible to install superelastic (back) seams, depending on the fabric used. This additional adjustment is very simple and can be done by every housewife.

This requires the following techniques:

c) (Fig.30a)

Set the shift lever back
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 2
Zigzag foot N ° 534
The arc seam is used for sewing elastic knits and knitwear. Since this seam is elastic and decorative, it is used for sewing on lace.
Attention! The shorter the stitch length, the more elastic the seam.
The arc seam is suitable for sewing parts into a joint.
These parts are sewn together with several stitches and a secure connection is formed.
By overlapping the zigzag stitch with the arc stitch, it is possible to lengthen, for example, children's clothing, in a beautiful way.

1.3 Seams for special loads
but) Triple reinforced secure stitching(fig. 31)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
Zigzag foot N ° 534

A particularly durable seam that is used where a normal seam will break, such as for sewing on pockets and sleeves and for sewing trousers.

b) (fig. 32)

Set the shift lever forward
, 2 or 3
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch adjuster knob to Zigzag foot N ° 534

These seams are particularly durable and highly elastic.

c) (fig. 33)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 2
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
Zigzag foot No. 534

Very elastic and durable stitching with reinforcing stitches. Suitable for sewing trousers and sportswear.

G) Herringbone stitch(see fig. 28)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
Zigzag foot N ° 534

The seam is very elastic. Suitable for durable sewing of fabrics, for example, when sewing skirts and children's clothing. It is necessary to put two pieces of material to each other in a joint and sew them with a herringbone stitch with a simultaneous decorative effect.

e) Stitching for fastening pockets
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Set the stitch length adjuster knob to
Conveyor belt lowers Zigzag foot No. 534
After the usual sewing of the pocket, bartacks of 15 to 20 stitches are sewn at the edges for extra reinforcement. You can also sew on emblems.

2.
a) zigzag stitches (fig. 34)
Set the shift lever forward
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1 - 3
Zigzag foot N ° 534
These seams are strong and elastic. When a very strong seam is not required, a wide zigzag stitch can be used. In this case, set the pattern selection knob to 1, stitch length 13.

b) zipper stitching(fig.34a)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 3
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 2
Zigzag foot No. 534

Tuck the overcasting fabric under the foot so that the straight stitches sew past the edge of the fabric and the zigzag stitch sews the fabric. This stitch is used when sewing trousers.

c) (fig. 35)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 5
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to
Zigzag foot N ° 534

This stitch is especially suitable for overcasting fringed fabrics. Intermediate stitches strengthen the fabric well.

G) knitted stitching

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 6
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1.5 - 2
Zigzag foot N ° 534
The overcasting fabric is tucked under the foot in such a way that straight stitches are sewn alternately in the fabric, then past it at the very edge.

3. Sewing buttonholes(fig. 36 - 41)
Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 5
Set the program switch knob to "loop"
Set the buttonhole switch in the direction of the arrow up.
Set the stitch length dial to the buttonhole symbol.
Buttonhole foot N 771
To sew buttonholes, the pattern selection knob must be set to “5”. Set the program selector so that the loop symbol is at the top (fig. 36).
Now it is necessary to move the switch for making buttonholes 25 in the direction of the arrow up. In this case, the knobs for switching the program and for selecting patterns are firmly connected to each other (Fig. 36). Now both knobs turn on together.

The sequence of working strokes (the position of the control knobs is shown in the figures):
1.
Sewing on the right side of the buttonhole (fabric moves to the back) - bring the needle to the top position.

2.
Sewing the first bartack - bring the needle to the top position

3.
Sewing the left part of the buttonhole - bring the needle to the top position

4.
Sewing the second bartack

Remember to slide the buttonhole switch to its original position after you finish sewing the buttonhole.

4. (fig. 42)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Set the stitch length dial to
The conveyor is lowered
Button sewing foot No. 291
With the button-down foot, you can easily sew on buttons, crochet hooks, buttonholes and buttons. Place the button under the foot so that the button holes are within the notch of the foot. The needle should, in the left position, pierce in the center of the left hole and in the right position, pierce the buttons in the center of the right hole. After starting the machine, sewing on the button and securing the thread is carried out automatically.
If the button has more than two holes, then for the next two holes the button is rearranged and stitched in the above order.

but) Narrow hem in linen(fig. 43)
Set the pattern selection knob to 4.
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Presser foot No. 111

Before proceeding with the practical use of the undercutter, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with it first.
The hemmer is suitable for thin to medium-thick fabrics and hems well cut fabrics. The needle is raised to its maximum height and the presser foot is replaced with a hemmer.
Having lifted the bobbin thread up, it is laid together with the upper thread under the hemmer back.
Before starting the hem, cut the corner of the fabric obliquely so that the fabric can be easily wrapped in the hem.
Then the fabric is folded in a width of about 6 mm and passed through the hole of the undercutter to the needle.
The hemmer is lowered and 23 stitches are sewn. Then the beginning of the hem together with the ends of the threads is pulled back slightly until the conveyor has a good grip on the hem.
To obtain a smooth and even hem, guide the edge of the fabric with your thumb and forefinger into the hemmer (fig. 43), while adjusting the width of the strip of fabric entering the hemmer. It is recommended to slightly raise the fabric when feeding.
The hemmer is often used for hemming handkerchiefs, towels, shirts, blouses, etc.

b) (fig. 44)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1.5 - 2.5
Zigzag foot No. 534
Fold the straight cut edge of the fabric to a certain width and sew with a zigzag stitch, as shown in fig. 44.

c) (Fig. 44 a)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length in 2 - 3
Straight stitch foot No. 511
The guide is used for seams that run parallel to the edge of the material (fig. 44a). With the set screw, the guide fence is fixed at the desired distance from the presser foot on the machine platform. The edge of the material runs along the guide fence.

6. Darning and sewing on patches,

Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1.5 - 3
Zigzag foot No. 534

By sewing several three-stitch zigzag stitches side by side in one place, you can darn frayed areas in your garment.

b)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"

The foot is removed, the conveyor is lowered. Cut out the damaged area and pull the fabric tightly into the hoop. With the fabric under the needle, pull the bobbin thread up through the fabric. The presser foot lifter is lowered to maintain tension on the upper thread. When the machine is running quickly, the hoop is moved slowly and evenly back and forth in the direction of the fabric threads with both hands, extending about 1 cm beyond the edges of the defective area. Then darning in the transverse direction.

c) (fig. 47)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 1
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1.5 - 2.5
Zigzag foot No. 534
A patch is placed under the defective place, the size of which is larger than the wiped place. The thread direction of the patch and the fabric must match. The patch is sewn along the edge. The corners of the patch are stitched twice for strength. After sewing on the patch, the damaged part of the fabric is cut along the inner seam. The protruding edges of the patch are also cut off.

G) Sewing on patches on knitwear(Fig.48a, b, c)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1
Zigzag foot No. 534

This seam is ideal for household chores such as:

1. Sewing on a patch on jersey.
2. Sewing on rubber band
3. Sewing two pieces of material together.

A patch is placed under the defective area, the size of which should be larger than the worn area and the interlacing of the threads of which coincides with the fabric. The patch is stitched with several stitches (Fig. 48 a) A seam is stitched along the basting and the second seam is stitched next to it at a distance of 0.5 cm (Fig. 48 b). The damaged part of the tissue is cut along the inner seam (Fig. 48 c). Then trim the edges of the patch along the outside seam and remove the threads used for the basting.

7. Sewing on zippers and rubber bands.

but) Sewing on zippers(fig. 49)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length as required
Edging foot No. 181

The edging foot is secured to the machine. The foot is used for sewing narrow edges and for sewing on zippers (fig. 49).
When sewing on the zipper, the fabric is not stretched, but the zipper, on the contrary, is pulled.
b) Sewing on a wide rubber band

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4 or 5
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1 - 2 or 2 - 3
Zigzag foot No. 534 The elastic band is sewn to the fabric with a zigzag stitch without tension, so the fabric does not crimp.
c) (fig. 50)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1
Zigzag foot No. 534
The fabric is laid out smoothly and the beginning of the rubber band is sewn on. The tape is then stretched as needed. After sewing, the rubber band shrinks and crimps the fabric.

G) Sewing on rubber cord
Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal".
Stitch length 23
Zigzag foot No. 534
The rubber cord is wound around the bobbin with a slight hand tension as described in section 9 without changing the spring tension. Holding the bobbin, the rubber cord is stretched, as a result of which the rubber becomes thinner and easier to refuel, and it is not passed through the hole in the bobbin case. The rubber cord is lifted up (see section 12), put the fabric under the foot and sew. The result is tissue crimp.

8. Patterns and decorations
a) (Fig. 51)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 4
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length approx. 3
Edging foot with ruler N “181 (order N ° 84 00 36 21)
Parallel seams can be easily sewn with the screw-on guide fence. The fabric is guided so that the ruler slides along the stitched seam. The second seam is stitched at a specified distance. In this way, you can sew rows and squares of the same width, as well as quilting wadded items. (Fig. 51). Cotton wool is placed between two layers of fabric and stitched evenly.

b) (Fig. 52)

Set the shift lever forward
Set the pattern selection knob to 1, 2 or 3.
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Stitch length 1 1.5
Zigzag foot N ° 534

Fold the edge of the fabric 2 to 3 mm, lay in the lace and sew it with a zigzag stitch.

in)

Set the shift lever back
Set the pattern selection knob to 5
Set the program selector knob to the symbol
Set the stitch length dial to 2
Zigzag foot N ° 534
Depending on the desired length of the fringe, the required number of threads is drawn from the fabric. To prevent shedding of the threads, the upper edge is sewn with a cross stitch (Fig. 53). The seam looks very nice if the color of the sewing thread differs from the color of the fabric. Fringe is used to decorate tablecloths, scarves, scarves, etc.

d) (fig. 54)

The finishing hem can be sewn with knitting stitch, herringbone stitch, cross stitch or feather stitch. Borders can be sewn by composing different stitches and combining them using the rapport indicator. This is how decorations of various clothes are made.

e) (fig. 55)

Forward shift lever.
Set the pattern selection knob to 1, 2 or 3
Set the program switch knob to "normal"
Selectable stitch length 0.5 - 3
Zigzag foot N 534

Applications can be done in two ways:
Cut patterns can be sewn with tight (minimum pitch) or wide (large pitch) zigzag stitches (fig. 55).
The applique is drawn on the fabric and sewn) along the lines of the pattern with narrow, short zigzag stitches.
Then the protruding edge of the appliqué is cut close to the seam and the applique is sewn with wider zigzag stitches (at the minimum pitch) (fig. 56). In this case, the tension of the upper thread must be loosened.

f) (fig. 57)

When embroidering, as with darning, remove the presser foot from the machine by unscrewing the presser foot screw. The conveyor is lowered. The presser foot lifter is lowered to keep the upper thread under tension.

Embroidery is perfect darning and requires special confidence in the direction of the fabric.
The drawing is applied to the fabric. The fabric is hooped. The fabric is placed face up on the outer ring and then pressed tightly with the inner ring. The hoop with the stretched fabric and the pattern applied to it is brought under the needle so that the fabric lies directly on the throat plate. Putting the fabric under the needle, raise the bobbin thread. The hoop is moved by hand so that the needle makes pricks according to the pattern. Move the hoop with light and quick movements when the needle is out of the fabric.

21. Lighting

The sewing machine has a built-in electric lamp, which provides good illumination of the material being sewn. The light switch 9 is located on the front cover. The incandescent lamp has a screw base. To prevent malfunctioning of the machine, do not install lamps with a power of more than 20 watts.
Use 220 V / 15 or 20 W finger lamps with E 14 socket.

22. Care

With frequent use, the machine should be thoroughly cleaned once a week. Daily use of the machine requires daily lubrication.
Each bearing is lubricated with one or two drops of machine oil (Fig. 66.68).
The shuttle should also be lubricated.
A warning!
Use only sewing machine oil for lubrication. Do not use grease or oil containing resin, as this will damage the machine.
Do not lubricate the cloth belt.

Under the throat plate 14 and on the conveyor 16, dust and fibrous particles of fabric accumulate over time, which can obstruct the feeding of the fabric and cause the machine to run hard. Unscrew throat plate 14 (fig. 58) and remove any dirt.
Between the teeth of the conveyor, remove dirt with a wooden stick
(fig. 59) Do not use a screwdriver to do this, as this could damage the feed teeth and interfere with the feed of the fabric.

b) (fig. 60)

In order to ensure smooth and trouble-free operation of the machine, the hook should be periodically rinsed with a few drops of kerosene.
All shuttles are tempered to the hardness of glass and are sensitive to impact and pressure from hard objects (screwdriver, scissors, etc.)

in) Bearing cleaning

If the machine has not been used for a long time, it may have a heavy ride. This can be caused by oil tarry, dust and dirt. In this case, a few drops of kerosene are instilled into each bearing (Fig. 6668) and the machine is activated until the kerosene flows out of the bearings. Then the bearing is cleaned of protruding dirt and lubricated with one or two drops of sewing machine oil.

The foot drive should also be periodically cleaned of contamination, as described in the previous section, and the bearing areas marked with arrows (fig. 61) should be lubricated with machine oil.

Correct and regular lubrication ensures smooth, trouble-free operation of the machine and increases service life.

23. Sewing machine motor

If your sewing machine is equipped with an electric motor, the speed of the sewing process can be adjusted with the foot control. The starter allows you to sew slowly or at high speed. The electric motor requires almost no maintenance, since its bearings are self-lubricating. Carbon brushes will wear out after 650 hours of operation, under full engine load. During a slow sewing process, the temperature of the foot control body rises and, depending on the operating time, it can heat up to 80 ° or even a maximum of 135 ° C. Heating of the foot control is normal and does not have a negative effect on the motor and starter. If, after a long period of operation, the belt is stretched, then slightly loosen the screw that secures the motor on the arm of the sewing machine and move the bracket together with the motor down to such an extent that the belt receives the required tension. The drive belt will be correctly tensioned if the upper and lower part of the belt between the motor and the sewing machine can be brought closer to each other by about 2 cm without much effort. It is not recommended to tighten the belt too much, as too much tension will reduce the belt durability and place a heavy load on the motor bearings.

If you want to take the machine out of the car cabinet, table, car stand, then tilt it back downwards. Use a screwdriver to loosen both screws as indicated by the arrow in fig. 62. Now you can free the machine from the hidden hinges.
When installing the machine, make sure that the machine goes up to the stop of the hidden hinges. Remember to tighten both screws.

25. Troubleshooting instructions

Machine skips stitches
Cause:	Correction:
The machine is incorrectly refueled	See section 11
The needle is not fully inserted	Insert the needle as far as it will go, see section 3
Incorrect needle system	Replace with a 705 system needle or 130, see section 3
Incorrect position inserted whine needles	Flat side of the needle shaft must be facing back, see section 3
The needle number is not suitable for replaceable thread	See section 4
Blunt or bent needle	Insert a new needle, see section 3
Insufficient presser foot	See section 16
The upper thread breaks very often
Cause:	Correction:
Hole in the throat plate damaged	machine stitches ", instruct the master to fix the defect
Strong thread tension	Loosen the thread tension, see section 19
Weak and knobby thread	Eat a better variety threads
The thread came down from the spool and behind spun on the spool holder	Wind the thread onto the spool and again refuel
Wrong direction of rotation machine	Correct direction of rotation indicated by the "arrow" on the flywheel wheel. See fig. 1 (wheel should rotate in the direction to the worker).
Uneven stitching
Cause:	Correction:
Weak top and bottom tension threads	Consider all instructions about the "pass machine stitches ", tighten the tension threading, see section 19.

The clamping discs are oiled and release pin	Clear details
The bobbin is bent	Insert a new bobbin
Dry or dirty hook	Clean the hook, see section 22b
The bobbin is inserted into the bobbin pin wrong direction bundle rotation	See section 9
Uneven bobbin thread winding on bobbin	Rewind the thread
The fabric is curled when sewing.
	Correction:
Excessive tension on both threads	Loosen the thread tension, see section 19
Excessive pressure on the tone foot of which fabrics	See section 16
The needles break
Cause:	Correction:
Bent needle	Insert a new needle
Fabric needle too thin	See section 4
Improper tissue management when sewing	See section 14
The screw for securing the needle was not tight enough	Fasten the needle tightly, look section 3
The presser foot is not enough fixed	Attach the foot, see section 17
The throat plate is loose	Tighten the screws, see fig. 58
Noisy and heavy machine running
Cause:	Correction:
Bad oil was used, which did not meet the requirement	See section 22 b

26. Removing the cover on the machine arm(fig. 63)
Before removing the cover on the sleeve, the shift lever 26 must be set forward, and the pattern selection knob 23 must be set to 1. Only then, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws indicated in fig. 63. When installing the cover on the sleeve, make sure that the shift lever 26 is necessarily engaged with the pin of the shift mechanism (Fig. 64)

27. Removing the front cover(Fig. 65)

The front cover 10 is removed with the left hand obliquely downward. When installing, the front cover is placed in the retainer, first at the bottom and then at the top.

28. Machine lubrication prior to commissioning

Before putting the machine into operation, the following operations are carried out: a little kerosene is poured into all the lubrication points indicated by the arrow (Fig. 66-68). Then the machine is put into action for a while. The kerosene leaked out in the places of lubrication is wiped off with a rag. After that, 2-3 drops of fresh sewing machine oil are poured into all lubrication points. This flushing and lubrication method is also used when the machine has not been in operation for a long time and heavy running has occurred as a result of oil thickening.

Lubrication points.

Only use high-quality "sewing machine oil" for lubrication!

Sewing machine sleeve "Superprogrammautomatika" (cover removed)

29Accessories
The following accessories are supplied with the machine:
		Order no.
1 zigzag foot (by machine)
1 wide hemmer
1 straight stitch foot
1 edging foot with ruler
1 buttonhole foot
1 button sewing foot
1 fixing screw
4 bobbins
1 set of 705 needles (10 per box)
1 screwdriver large A 0.6x50 TGL 4873503
1 small screwdriver А 0,4x40 ТГЛ 4873503
1 measuring tape
1 oiler
1 spool stand
1 seam ripping knife
1 incandescent lamp
1 instruction
1 box for accessories

One of the legacies of the past Soviet era is the Veritas sewing machine, made in the GDR (Germany). Like other sewing equipment of the GDR, the models of these machines are quite reliable in operation and durable. If you have such a sewing machine, do not rush to throw it away. The Veritas sewing machines (not all models) have a double-fit rotating shuttle used for industrial machines, which is already a sign that the Veritas machine can perform quality stitching. The swinging sewing hook, of the same type as the Chaika sewing machine, is used only in inexpensive, economy class models of modern sewing machines. Some models of Veritas sewing machines sometimes have an oscillating sewing hook, but more often, a rotating vertical hook is installed.

Repair of sewing machines Veritas is sometimes complicated by the lack of instructions and spare parts, since spare parts for sewing machine models from 81 -91 years. they just don't release it anymore. In addition, the GDR has long since disappeared. Therefore, there is simply nowhere to buy them, except at the "flea" market. However, the reviews of almost all owners of Veritas sewing machines are only positive. Therefore, if the machine needs repair, try it, maybe you can make a small repair of the Veritas sewing machine with your own hands.

1. Rotary hook of the Veritas sewing machine

The Veritas sewing machine is a complex zigzag machine, that is, it makes different types of stitches based on a zigzag stitch. The shuttle stroke is the same as that of an industrial machine of class 97 and rotates in a vertical plane, which increases the accuracy class of the needle and shuttle, but provided that the shuttle unit is well adjusted.
The transfer from the main shaft to the lower shaft of the sewing machine is carried out using a woven nylon belt. This reduces noise when operating at high rpm.
The shuttle is seated on a circular axle and secured with screws. If they are loosened, the hook can be removed, which means it is convenient to adjust the gap between the needle and the hook nose.

Sometimes a torn thread gets into the shuttle, and then it stalls, the machine jams. In this case, the only correct solution is to remove the shuttle from the axis. To do this, tilt the machine to one side and on the right side, loosen the two screws securing the drive gear on which the belt is put on, then remove the fixing plate. It holds the bobbin holder for the bobbin. Now you can turn the shuttle and loosen its screws on the shaft. After removing the hook, unscrew the three screws that secure the lock plate with the nose facing the thread hook (hook nose). Then moisten the joint with solvent and try to remove or rotate the hook bobbin holder. There are six slots on its belt that need to be cleaned. The slots must always be clean. Assemble the shuttle in reverse order.
Attention! In case of inept disassembly at the shuttle, its locking ring, which locks the bobbin holder, can be broken. Be careful!

2. You can sew jeans and knitted fabric on Veritas

Sewing machine "Veritas Rubina", in addition to excellent performance, also has a completely modern look, is equipped with an electric drive and can carry out many different types of stitches. It is quite functional, that is, it is enough to put in a special needle for denim and it will be possible to hem jeans. And if you put a needle for sewing knitted fabrics, you can sew knitted clothes with high quality.

Veritas is a decent household sewing machine, especially when compared to older Soviet sewing machines. And even the old Veritas models, with a pedestal and foot drive, can perfectly sew modern knitted fabrics. If you have a manual for a sewing machine, then it is written in detail what fabrics can be sewn on Veritas, what sewing needles to use. How to select threads and needles, depending on the thickness of the fabric, thread and more.

The Veritas sewing machine is equipped with a TUR-2 electric drive. This engine is of very good quality. For many years of using these drives in our practice, none of them "burned out", did not break, and even the brushes did not have to be changed even once. There are several engines that "sat down", that is, during prolonged operation they lose power and speed, but they work!
The electric drive of the TUR-2 brand can work for many years without requiring repair or replacement of brushes, even with intensive use of the sewing machine. But, like all electric motors for household sewing machines, it must work intermittently. Approximately half an hour of continuous work and a 10-15 minute break. This is especially important not to forget when processing curtains with a large footage.
With prolonged work without interruption, a specific smell of burnt electrical wiring appears. This means that it has overheated and needs cooling. Of course, the engine will not break down right away, but over time, from frequent overheating, it will lose power, and the machine will work slower.

Another detail in the Veritas sewing machine that should be noted is the sewing pedal. The sewing pedal often breaks with the Veritas sewing machine. And not so much because of an unsuccessful design, but because of a careless attitude towards it. The pedal body is very fragile and the upper part is secured by a small protrusion of the lower part. Often this protrusion breaks when hit or strong pressure and the pedal "opens".
This breakdown can be eliminated by yourself if you restore this limiter. But first you need to disassemble the pedal. In order to disassemble the pedal, it is necessary to pull out the metal rod connecting both parts of the pedal base. This bushing is fixed with a screw in the lower recessed hole, which is usually sealed up and therefore it is difficult to understand that there is a screw there.
And yet, after self-repair, do not leave the pedal plugged in, since the pedal from the inept adjustment of the rheostat can be constantly on, overheat and cause big trouble.

4. Electric drive belt and main shaft toothed belt

If the strap of the Veritas sewing machine is cracked or torn, you can definitely replace it yourself. To do this, loosen the fastening of the motor to the sewing machine. Next, slide the drive towards you, the belt tension will loosen, and remove it. Replace the belt and tighten.
Adjust the tension on the belt so that it flexes slightly when you press it with your finger. If the belt is too tight (overtightened), the sewing machine will make more noise and a stiff movement will appear.

A toothed belt is installed on almost any household old model of Veritas sewing machines. Thanks to this, the machine works noticeably quieter than Chaika, but there is also a drawback. This belt has the ability to stretch and then the machine can be scrapped, since it is impossible to buy a new such belt.

5. Parameters of the backlash of the shuttle course of Veritas

If you decide to repair your Veritas sewing machine yourself (which is not recommended), you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since the forward shift of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the shift towards the seamstress is the cause of omissions. And the wrong position of the needle in relation to the point of the shuttle is the cause of almost all stitch defects of the sewing line.

First, set the clearance between the shuttle and the needle in the plane of rotation of the shuttle. This gap on the right stitch of the zigzag sewing machine Veritas should be in the range of 0.1-0.05 mm. It must be adjusted by displacing the shuttle along the axis of its attachment. The shuttle is fastened with two screws.

The distance between the shuttle and the needle when it is in the lowest position is determined by the center angle of the shuttle. The beginning of the upward movement of the needle should begin no later than the moment when the nose of the shuttle and the needle form an angle of 45 degrees, and the straight line from the needle to the nose of the shuttle is 7 mm. At a lower angle, there will be gaps on the right stitch of the zigzag, at a larger angle, there will be a looping of the upper thread and its breakage.

You need to adjust the gap by turning the shuttle on the axis (shaft) with loosened screws of its fastening. If there are skipped stitches on the knitted fabrics on the right zigzag thrust, you can increase the center pivot angle to 50 °. But at the same time, be sure to check if the line below has worsened. If the bottom stitch pattern starts to get lost, and the top thread is clearly visible from below, reduce the central corner to a size that improves the bottom stitching.

The moment the shuttle nose meets the needle at the left stab of the zigzag. The distance between the lower edge of the spout and the upper edge of the tab is equal to zero (pos. A), and on the right stab of the zigzag is 2 mm. You need to adjust this parameter by displacing the needle bar vertically and turning the shuttle.

The opinion of the master about which sewing machine is the best. Details about the used Rubin sewing machine and other old models of the Veritas brand.

The Veritas foot-operated sewing machine can be equipped with a foot-operated electric drive. This is easy to do, since the machine has a standard mount for an electric drive. If you need to repair your foot drive, you can use the advice in this article.

The shuttle stroke of the Veritas double-wrap sewing machine is the same as that of industrial lockstitch machines. But, nevertheless, its device has its own characteristics. However, many of the settings for the interaction of the hook point and the needle in this article will also work with the Veritas sewing machine.

Lubrication of the sewing machine Veritas, Veritas Rubin and other models of machines from this company requires a lot of attention. Carefully study the instructions, read where you need to lubricate the machine, or independently determine all the rubbing units of the sewing machine and regularly lubricate them with a small amount of oil. Excessive lubrication can only do harm.

This model of an industrial sewing machine, like the Veritas household sewing machine, was produced in the GDR. It is designed for sewing light and suit fabrics. For small sewing workshops and ateliers engaged in sewing outerwear, the machine is simply irreplaceable. The mechanism for moving the presser foot together with the rail allows the machine to perform many specific operations, for example, fitting the sleeve when stitching into the armhole, etc.

Repairs to the sewing machine will not take many years if the sewing machine is taken care of and taken care of. Periodically clean the shuttle compartment from lint and thread residues with a stiff glue brush and lubricate the machine.

For home? The Veritas company offers customers a variety of models. Devices for beginners in the range of the company are also available. Shuttles are most often used of the drive type. For overlock stitching of fabrics, the devices fit perfectly.

In a standard set of clippers, the user can find many feet. The stores also offer models with belt hooks. The average power is no more than 50 watts. In terms of embroidery speed, the devices are very different. A high-quality model costs no more than 23 thousand rubles.

Choosing a quality model

How to choose a sewing machine for your home? If you choose a device for a beginner, then the power should be no more than 55 watts. It is more expedient to select a shuttle of a drive type with a protection system. The foot feeder must be in the upper part of the body. Some models have a felt pad. Today they are in great demand. The device for stretching the fabric deserves special attention. Typically, it is used with a regulator.

Instructions for using the machine

The first step is to select the foot for the job. The presser foot pressure regulator should be in the up position. The embroidery speed is set by the knob. The thread cutter must be open. Also check the needle threader before use.

Description of the model VERITAS FL-4034

The VERITAS FL-4034 is a good sewing machine that comes with a powered shuttle. In this case, the needle threader is used with a regulator. According to customer reviews, the paws are of high quality. The stitch width can be adjusted as needed. The bobbin for the sewing machine is made of aluminum. The lining above the hook is not provided by the manufacturer. For beginner seamstresses, the model fits perfectly. However, it is important to note that it takes some getting used to the thread cutter. His stand is installed in a fairly compact size. There is a loop for direct stitching.

You can clean the thread cutter yourself if you wish. Decorative stitches can be sewn with a regular bobbin. The machine of this series pulls the fabric very quickly. The maximum embroidery speed is 320 lines per minute. The machine has no free sleeve. The auto-winding device is of a mechanical type. Spare parts for sewing machines can be purchased at the service center. There is no bobbin for overlock stitches. You can buy this machine in the store for 27 thousand rubles.

Opinion about the device VERITAS FL-4050

VERITAS FL-4050 is a sewing machine for beginners with a high hook. In this case, the stand is made entirely and plastic. According to customer reviews, the needle threader is used with a quality screw. The bobbins of this model rarely curl. The needle can be changed quickly if necessary. The winding system is of the bobbin type. The stand in the device is made of polymer. In total, the model has three

For the purpose of direct stitching with a needle, the device fits perfectly. The feed mechanism is used with a rack. It is quite easy to adjust the embroidery speed of the machine. The power of this model is 36 watts. In terms of dimensions, the device is compact and weighs very little. The stand is made entirely of plastic. The fabric tension regulator is not provided by the manufacturer. If we talk about the cons, then it is important to mention the weak transporter. If used improperly, the rail can be damaged. Nowadays, the model costs about 24 600 rubles.

Customer reviews about VERITAS "Ruby"

The "Veritas Rubina" sewing machine is in great demand. Customers choose her first and foremost for her excellent shuttle. In this case, it is used as a drive type. It has a seizure protection system. The model works well for short stitches. The threading machine is of the screw type. The control panel is of high quality. For the purpose of zigzag stitching of fabric, the sewing machine is often used. The feed mechanism is made with guides.

The bobbin for the sewing machine is made of aluminum. According to customer reviews, the tension regulator rarely breaks down. It is quite easy to adjust the embroidery speed. The set includes straight stitch feet. The conveyor in this case is made of plastic. The filler is located in the upper part of the body as standard. The loop on this model is provided with a bobbin. This machine weighs only 5.8 kg. You can buy it in the store at a price of 25,300 rubles.

Characteristics of the VERITAS HZ-911X model

This sewing machine "Veritas" has a lot of advantages. First of all, it is important to note that the model is great for beginners. Among the features of the modification, it is necessary to mention the interesting design. The shuttle is of the drive type as standard. The stand under it is made of plastic. If customer reviews are to be believed, problems with the threading machine are rare. Its screw is used with a small diameter.

The sewing machine cutter is located at the top of the body. Straight stitch feet are included as standard. For the purpose of longitudinal firmware, the device fits perfectly. The hinge lining is made of plastic. The maximum embroidery speed is 330 lines per minute. The stitch length of the model is very easy to adjust. There is no bobbin for overlock stitching. The motor power of the machine is 56 watts. Its electricity consumption is insignificant. A brush is used to clean the model.

Feedback on the VERITAS HZ-915X

VERITAS HZ-915X is a good sewing machine that comes with one regulator. The loop in this case is near the shuttle. The cutter is of the screw type. According to customer reviews, adjusting the embroidery speed is very easy. The paws in this case are made of pretty high quality. The motor power of the sewing machine is 45 watts. The mechanism for fastening the fabric in the device is installed in the upper part of the case. The feed box is made with a rail. An overlock foot is included in the standard set.

For the purpose of zigzag stitching of fabric, the model fits perfectly, but it is important to note that it does not have a conveyor. The threader is made of plastic. A buttonhole is used for double stitching. The threading mechanism is located under the hook. The stand for him is made of small height. There are bobbins for straight stitching in the standard set. The needle can be changed quickly if necessary. This sewing machine "Veritas" is on sale at a price of 29 thousand rubles.

Customer reviews about VERITAS 8014

The Veritas 8014 sewing machine is very popular among beginners. First of all, she is praised for a quality threading machine. The cutter is used as standard with a screw. In total, the model has two straight stitch legs. The coil regulator is made of plastic. For the purpose of overlock work, the model fits perfectly. However, it is important to remember that it does not have a transporter. The rail is included in the standard set of short length.

There is a special bobbin for sewing leather. The feed unit is located behind the hook. The maximum embroidery speed is 380 lines per minute. A directional seam foot is provided. The lining is supplied with a polymer type. You can buy the specified sewing machine at a price of 23,600 rubles.

Features of the VERITAS OS-2016 model

This sewing machine "Veritas" is manufactured with a driven shuttle. The cutter for this model is located above the stand. Coils in this case are used with caps. This sewing machine weighs only 6.5 kg. There are bobbins for direct sewing of fabric in the set. It is also important to note that the model is ideal for overlock work. The needle in the holder can be changed without problems. A high-quality transporter deserves special attention. The rail is selected for him of a small length. The cutter can be quickly removed if necessary. The foot is made of plastic. There are bobbins for overcasting.

The set also includes a set of needles for the device. The shuttle regulator is of high quality. The winding system is of a mechanical type. The gasket in this case is under the rack. The maximum embroidery speed is 420 lines per minute. The bobbins are mounted above the bobbin holder. The guides are installed under the hook. The model fits perfectly for sewing lightning. Also, a sewing machine of this series is recommended for working with leather. Nowadays, you can buy a model at a price of 33 thousand rubles.

What they say about the VERITAS OS-2024

The VERITAS OS-2024 is a beginner's sewing machine that comes with two bobbins. Her caps are used closed. If you believe the reviews, then the embroidery speed of the model is at a high level. A loop is available for straight stitching. If necessary, there is an opportunity to do overlock work. The guides of the model are made of plastic.

The needle holder is used with a small diameter. The threader is located under the hook as standard. For longitudinal stitching, the model is used quite often. The feed mechanism is made with a screw. The motor power is 45 W. The stitching foot is made of polymer. The minimum stitch width is 4 millimeters. Spare parts for sewing machines can be purchased at the service center. The described model costs about 27,200 rubles.