The advent of the Edge Pro grinding machines revolutionized without exaggeration. The prices are really high, but no one bothers to copy the principle and create such a device yourself. We offer the design of a simple machine for sharpening knives, chisels and any other blades that you can make with your own hands.
Machine base
Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made from literally anything, following the general principle of the device. As an example, let us take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio enclosures.
The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg - otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy chopping tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is encouraged, for example, the base of the case can be "shod" with a 20x20 mm corner.
Two pieces in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm must be cut out of plywood with a jigsaw. When cutting, leave a 0.5-0.7 mm allowance for machining the ends: they must be straight and exactly correspond to the markings.
The third part is an inclined plane made of a plywood board with dimensions of 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, with the trapeziums of the side walls resting on the rectangular side.
In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the ramp should protrude 40 mm at the front. Along the ends of the side walls, use a thickness gauge to set two lines indented by half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each plank to secure the parts with screws. Transfer the drilling to the ends of the inclined part, temporarily connect the base parts.
At the rear, the side walls are connected with a 60x60 mm bar, which is attached to the end with two screws on each side. A 10 mm vertical hole must be made in the bar with a 50 mm offset from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is best to first drill with a thin drill on both sides and then widen. From above and below, screw into the hole two sleeves with an M10 female thread, and in them - a 10 mm stud, 250 mm long. Here it may be necessary to slightly adjust the bottom sleeve if its threads are not aligned with the stud.
Assistant device
Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be finalized, equipped with a device for fixing and clamping the tool being processed.
First, set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line with a hacksaw, saw down a groove about 2 mm deep. Using a sectional or boot knife from the end of the board, chisel off the top two veneer layers to form a sample into which you can insert a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.
The handrail consists of two steel slats 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with uniform indents along the edges and make three 6 mm through holes. The strips along these holes must be tightened with bolts, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc welding bake each head, welding it to the plate, then remove the beads of metal and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.
Attach a narrower striker to the notch on the edge and relocate the holes with a drill, then bolt the handlebar. Before installation, it can also be magnetised with direct current, this will help in sharpening small blades.
Latching mechanism
The second part of the handcuff is the clamping bar. It also comes in two pieces:
- The upper L-shaped strip is 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
- The bottom striker is rectangular 50x100 mm.
The details need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the handcuff were folded, placing the striker at the far edge of the upper clamp. In the center we make two holes with an indent of 25 mm from the edges of the small part, through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. They need to be wound in opposite directions, while the head of the upper (near) bolt is located on the side of the clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-grinded to a neat rounding.
On an inclined plank with an indent of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thickness gauge, and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with a marking and with a jigsaw make a cut with an allowance. Bring the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.
Fasten the hold-down and striker plate through the groove in the plank. Tighten the bolt protruding from the top with a nut so that the bar retains minimum movement, then lock the connection with the second nut. To press or release the strap from the bottom (in the base niche), screw the wing nut onto the second bolt.
Sharpening angle adjustment
Throw a wide washer onto the pin screwed into the base block and tighten the nut so that the rod does not rotate in the sleeves.
The adjusting shoe must be made from a small block of solid material with dimensions of about 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.
At 15 mm from the edge, the block is drilled into a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut a thread inside. With an offset of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, the second is drilled, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm and should be flared strongly with a round rasp.
The block is screwed onto a pin, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the eyelet without a complex system of screw locks, as in the original machine, which is a little more difficult to implement in practice. In order for the block to be motionless during operation, it must be counterbalanced on both sides with M10 wing nuts.
Carriage and replacement blocks
For a sharpening carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm pieces of M10 hairpin and a smooth, even bar 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks with dimensions of about 50x80 mm and a thickness of up to 20 mm. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and at a distance of 20 mm from the top edge.
First, a wing nut is screwed onto the bar, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. Rectangular sharpening stones can be clamped between the blocks, but it is better to make several replaceable whetstones.
As a basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. It can be a rectangular shaped pipe or pieces of an old eaves profile.
We skin the flat part and degrease it, "Moment" we glue strips of sandpaper of different grain size from 400 to 1200 grit on it. Choose a fabric-backed sandpaper, and glue a strip of suede leather on one of the blocks to straighten the blades with an abrasive paste.
How to sharpen correctly
For correct sharpening, make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20º for cutting edges and 30-37º for cutting edges, the exact angle depends on the grade of steel. Lock the blade parallel to the edge of the handrail and press down with a bar. Using the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the sharpening block and the tilted tabletop.
Start sharpening with a coarse (P400) bar if the edge does not have the correct angle. Make sure that the descent strip takes the form of a straight strip without convolutions and waves. Reduce grit and work on both sides of the blade with a P800 bar and then a P1000 or P1200 bar. When sharpening the blade, slide the bar lightly in both directions.
After sharpening, the blade needs to be corrected with a "leather" bar, on which a small amount of GOI paste has been applied. When dressing the blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (towards itself), but not against it. And finally, a little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, cover them with masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also does not hurt to paste over the surface of the handcuff with vinyl self-adhesive.
Sharpening a knife is a task that every man has to face from time to time. In almost every home now you can find a grinding block familiar to everyone. However, this simple tool is not the only (and not the most convenient) way to sharpen kitchen knives.
If you do not want to buy a professional tool, you can make a simple but more effective grinding machine yourself if you want.
1 About the device of sharpening machines for knives
The main nuance that distinguishes a professional tool from an ordinary bar is more accurate work with the sharpening angle. It is the angle at which the cutting edge is sharpened that is the main requirement that affects the sharpness of the blade. If you calculate and achieve this angle correctly, even a homemade sharpener will allow you to sharpen knives to a razor sharpness.
A hand-held benchtop instrument of this type looks something like this:
Support part. "Sole", which is firmly attached to the table, and on which the other elements of the machine are located.
Place for attaching the knife.It is carried out in the form of a clamp.
Moving bar with fixed sanding bar. The stroke of the bar should be limited - so that the movement occurs in one plane, sharpening the knife at the desired angle.
A mechanism for adjusting the angle at which the bar can move.
Such devices (with fixing the blades of knives or scissors) are more convenient. More force can be applied in them, since it is more convenient to move the block than the knife.
Some machines are arranged the other way around - not a knife is attached to them, but a sharpening block, the angle of which can (or cannot) be changed. Such models are simpler, and in fact, they differ from an ordinary sharpening bar lying on the table only in the ability to precisely adjust and maintain the desired angle of inclination.
Such installations are suitable not only for knives - with their help, you can also sharpen straight scissors.
1.1 Overview of models
Before figuring out how to createdo-it-yourself knife sharpening machine -consider what models you can buy:
- Lansky. It costs about $ 6 5-80. Has a clamp for knives (scissors), a bar - movable. Angle adjustment - from 17° to 30 °.
- SpitJack. It costs about $ 40.
- Aligner AKEFC. It costs about $ 90.
- Ganzo Touch Pro. It costs about $ 90-100.
- Apex 4 Kit Edge. It costs about $ 200-220. Suitable not only for kitchen knives and scissors, but also for hunting knives.
- Ruixin ( Korean copies of the above Apex). They cost about $ 30-40.
In addition to the listed models, there is a considerable selection of other similar installations. The approximate price range of mid-range grinding machines is around $ 30.
Knife sharpener Chief "s Choice
You can find more convenient (but also more expensive) electric sharpeners. These include compact Chief "s Choice devices (models 312, 320, CH-310, 1520). They cost from $ 120 to $ 250-300, and allow sharpening at an angle of 20 °. Power consumption of installations - up to 150 watts. This electric flat knife sharpening machine is mainly used in the restaurant business, but for other products (scissors, hunting knives, etc.), these models are naturally not suitable.
In addition to electric models, Chief's Choice has similar mechanical devices. They are a sharpening block installed at a given angle in the case. The user just needs to slide a knife into a special slot - and that's all. Such models are cheaper than electric ones (about $ 40-50 ), and are also used mainly in the restaurant business, for kitchen knives.
2 Basic information for creating a homemade machine
Making an electric machine correctly is not a task for an amateur. But making a desktop manual version is quite real.
There are many options for creating it, so we will consider only a few of them.
The most important requirement for the created machine will be the chosen angle - this directly affects how sharp the cutting edge will be and how long it will last.
The thinner it is (i.e., the smaller the sharpening angle), the sharper the knife will be, but also the less it will serve. In addition, a knife sharpened too sharply (at an angle of less than 15-20º it is not recommended to cut hard products: it will become dull faster.
Specific figures can be cited:
the angle of sharpening of knives (kitchen, hunting) - 15-30º (or better - 20-30º);
angle of sharpening of scissors (rigid) - about 50º.
2.1 First way
To begin with, let's analyze the simplest option.
To create a machine, we need:
2 wooden corners (optimal side length - 20-30 cm).
6-8 screws with clamping nuts.
Sharpening bar.
Trance portyr to correctly set the angle.
The construction is done like this:
3-4 holes are drilled in both corners -so as to fasten them together.
The bar is installed between the corners at the desired angle.
The corners are tightened with screws, securing the bar in the desired position.
For sharpening knives (kitchen, hunting - it doesn't matter) or scissorsyou just need to slide the blade down over the bar. In this case, the blade should go strictly vertically..
Corners can be marked with corners as needed. To change the angle (or to replace the bar), you just need to loosen the screws tightening the corners and move the bar. Then the screws are tightened again.
Such a device is good in that it allows you to change the angle. Among its shortcomings, we can note the fact that it is, in fact, not much more convenient than working with a conventional grindstone.
2.2 Option two
Now let's complicate the task: we will make a grinding machine more convenient to use.
This will require:
A piece of laminate (chipboard, plywood).
Wooden lath (length approx. 1 meter, thickness and height - about 2-4 cm), or two slats - one 50-70 cm long, the second up to 40.
Sandpaper.
2 bolts with lock nuts.
Hacksaw for wood.
Protractor.
Marker (pencil, pen, felt-tip pen - any marking tool).
The process itself looks like this:
Now - you need to make a stand, which will allow you to drive the bar at the same angle. For this:
Now left make a holder for sandpaper(which will be used instead of a sharpening bar). For this you need:
Take the second rail, and put it on the U-shaped stand and the knife holder.
Cut off the desired part (the one that goes from the holder to the stand, + 5-10 cm of stock).
On one edge - glue emery.
The optimal abrasive is from P600 to P2000.
AND The disadvantages of this design include:
the impossibility of adjusting the angle: the product allows you to work only at one angle, selected initially (not a disadvantage if the machine needs to be made for the kitchen);
to use emery of different abrasives, you will have to make a separate rail for each.
As an option, in order not to make several strips, you can stick 4 pieces of emery with different abrasives on one strip.
When working (sharpening) such a machine is placed on the edge of the table. The bolts protruding from the bottom will abut against it, so that the machine will stand in one place when the rail with emery moves.
2.3 How to make a homemade knife sharpening machine? (video)
2.4 How to sharpen?
H so as not to spoilknife - sharpener must be used correctly:
The movement of the knife on the bar should be smooth, without jerks, and not very fast.
The pressure on the blade should be even. The pressure force is selected individually.
The blade must be sharpened evenly along its entire length.
If necessary, you need to cool the knife by lowering it into water.
After the completion of sharpening, it is advisable to grind the blade with sandpaper, with a grain size of up to 800.
To check the quality of sharpening, you can put a sheet of paper on a suitable surface (for example, a cutting board) and draw a knife over it. Well sharpened blade - will cut the paper. With poor sharpening, the sheet will wrinkle or tear.
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Regardless of what kind of guarantee the manufacturer of knives gives that during use they will not require sharpening, sooner or later this question arises before the user. It doesn't matter if it concerns kitchen utensils or camping utensils. a sharp knife is the key to success in fishing and hunting, while traveling and when preparing food. Devices for sharpening knives - types and rules of use, as well as how to make it yourself - this is the topic of today's review of the website editorial board.
The simplest device for sharpening a cutting tool is a bar, and the device for its use is a fixer for the angle of the sharpened surface
Knives can be classified according to the following indicators:
Whetstones and whetstones
A whetstone (whetstone) is an abrasive tool used to sharpen the cutting edges of household appliances and kitchen utensils, carpentry and locksmith tools.
The industry produces four types of stones for sharpening knives:
- natural- novaculite and Japanese water stone, are distinguished by their high price and complexity of use;
- diamond- the most popular type of product, it is distinguished by a variety of both geometric dimensions and grain size. They are distinguished by wear resistance and efficiency of use, as well as low cost;
- ceramic- a modern type of sharpening tool, distinguished by the combination of the positive qualities of natural and diamond analogues;
- artificial- well-known types of electrocorundum or carbide, differ in low cost, but in the process of use they crumble and are not suitable for finishing the cutting edges.
Hand tools
- Musat for sharpening knives.
Almost everyone knows what musat is, but that this is the name of this product, many do not even suspect. The reason for this is that musat, as a rule, comes with sets of knives offered for sale through trade organizations.
Musat is a rod made of various materials, equipped with a handle and characterized by a rough drawing of the working surface.
The roughness of the drawing is the size of the notch applied to the rod, and it is this that determines the degree of roughness of the cutting surface of the knife after it has been processed. Musat is equipped with a rod with a certain degree of magnetization, which ensures that metal particles formed during use get into food and kitchen utensils. Musats are classified by:
- rod shape- round and oval, flat and tetrahedral;
- materials used- ceramics and metal, diamond and mixed designs.
Each species has certain advantages and disadvantages that determine the possibilities of using the device and its purpose.
- Manual machines.
Household manual knife sharpening machines differ in their design, but in any of them, a bar or a whetstone acts as the main element. The action of the abrasive tool on the cutting surface is carried out using the forces applied by the user. The main task performed by a manual machine is to create and maintain the optimal angle of sharpening of the cutting edges for the entire period of work, which is achieved by rigidly fixing the knife in a given plane. The industry produces various models of such equipment, differing in the size and methods of attaching abrasives and processed knives, as well as the materials used and cost.
Household electric sharpeners do not take up much space and are very functional, because in their design, as a rule, various fixed sharpening angles are provided for different types of knives and other cutting tools (scissors, screwdrivers, etc.). The ability to quickly and efficiently sharpen the cutting edges of knives is very important for catering establishments, where the speed and quality of cooking depends on sharpening. Professional machines for sharpening knives are functional devices equipped with high-quality abrasive tools that allow you to perform not only rough sharpening, but also fine-tuning the cutting edges of knives for various purposes.
Professional models, in addition, as a rule, have several operating modes that allow sharpening with different efficiency required for knives made of different metals or ceramics.
How to properly sharpen a knife at home
Everyone knows that a knife must be sharp, and for this it needs to be sharpened, but how to do it correctly is often not known to every user. It should be noted right away that for the correct performance of the work, it is necessary:
- Know the sharpening angles for each type of knives and other cutting tools.
- Be able to work on various equipment or using available accessories.
Sharpening angle of knives for various purposes
For knives used for different purposes, the angles of sharpening of the cutting edges are different, which is due to their purpose and nature of use.
This value is for:
- table knives - 55–60˚, because ready-made dishes are quite soft and easy to cut; moreover, with a lower sharpening angle, there is a possibility of damage to the dishes while eating;
- hunting and folding models - 40−45˚, which is explained by their versatility;
- kitchen knives - 30−35˚;
- used for professional cutting of vegetables - 35˚;
- used for professional cutting and deboning of meat - 25-30˚;
- used for professional cutting of fish - 25˚.
Some types of knives are sharpened with different sharpening angles, such as, for example, intended for slicing bread (the angle is 15˚), but this is a narrowly targeted use in which sharpening must be performed quite often, because with a decrease in this indicator, the durability of the cutting edges decreases.
How to sharpen a knife at home with a bar
In order to properly sharpen a knife using a bar, you must follow several rules for performing work:
- it is necessary to choose the optimal sharpening angle corresponding to the purpose of the knife;
- the blade should be located in relation to the plane of the bar strictly in the specified parameters of the sharpening angle for the entire period of work;
- sharp and abrupt movements should not be allowed, they must be smooth and sliding;
- when performing work, the bar should be moistened abundantly with water diluted with soap or detergent.
How to sharpen with musat
The sharpening process of a knife using musat is shown in the following figure.
The work is done as follows:
- musat is installed on a flat surface strictly in a vertical plane;
- the upper part of the device is aligned with the sharpened edge of the knife near its handle, after which the knife moves along the musat rod in an arched motion directed from top to bottom;
- the movements are repeated several times on both edges of the knife.
I would like to note that experienced users can perform this operation on weight, without rigid fixation of the rod of the device used.
How to sharpen a knife correctly on an electric grinder
When using models equipped with an electric drive, the basic requirements for the performance of work, allowing you to perform the correct sharpening, are the same as in the case of using a stone or whetstone.
But, besides this, there are additional requirements, which can be formulated as follows:
- it is not the abrasive that should be moistened with water, but the surface of the knife being processed, which is explained by the fact that water is not stored on a rapidly rotating wheel;
- overheating of the blade must not be allowed, which can lead to its damage, which occurs when the machined edges are pressed strongly against the abrasive surface;
- for rigid fixation of the sharpening angle, additional devices can be used that are installed rigidly to the body of the grinding machine or are in the hands of the user;
- when working on industrial sharpening machines, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment, such as gloves and goggles.
In the case of using small devices intended for home use, the main requirement for sharpening is the operation time, all the rest (fixing the sharpening angle, protection, etc.) the machine performs itself, according to its design.
Typical mistakes when doing work with your own hands
When sharpening knives on their own, many users make typical mistakes, which can be summarized as follows:
- Creating the wrong sharpening angle prevents the knife from being used for its intended purpose or limits its functionality.
- Excessive pressure when working on electric models or the wrong direction and nature of movements when using a bar or a sharpening stone contribute to damage to the surface of the knife, destruction of its edge.
- Sharpening the cutting surface without preliminary cleaning from dirt and foreign substances leads to blurring of the abrasive and its damage.
- Using only one musat when sharpening cutting edges. This device is intended only for finishing or straightening the knife blades; it is not intended for performing the main sharpening.
- Failure to complete the sharpening operation to the end again leads to a rapid blunting of the cutting edges.
- Use of an abrasive (stone or whetstone) of only one grain size.
Making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands
Although it is now possible to easily buy the necessary tools and equipment for sharpening knives and other cutting tools, nevertheless, handicraft citizens continue to make knife-cutters with their own hands in their free time. When making a knife sharpener with your own hands, you need to decide on its type (manual or electric) and the type of abrasive materials used (bar, circle, sanding belt), as well as the materials available that will go to make the body of the assembled device, its frame. Consider the option of a manual sharpener using an abrasive bar and plywood as the frame of the structure. The appearance of the assembled device is shown in the following figure.
A knife sharpening machine is a necessary tool in everyday life, in production or in workshops. With their help, cutting elements of various devices are sharpened - hair scissors, a planer, a Chef's Choice kitchen knife, cutter devices, etc. Depending on the purpose and technical characteristics, there are different types of machines.
Photo of a sharpening machine
All machines for sharpening tools are divided into two groups:
- Universal;
- Special (specialized).
- A universal do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine allows you to process various cutting, cutter, planing knives. This is an electric unit that is equipped with a pair of grinding tools. In their role are tapes, discs, plates or a combination of different types of devices.
- Specialized ones work with specific types of cutting tools, therefore, at the same time, they cannot be used for processing a planer or Chef's Choice tools.
Machine tools are called specialized for:
- Scissors and knives. The sharpening angle is optimal for imparting the necessary sharpness to such products. Products are fed to the grinding wheel, observing the set angle .;
- Drill. These are units that allow you to return the previous cutting capabilities to drills;
- Saw chains. Electric or gasoline-powered saws have chains that also require sharpening. A different angle is needed here;
- Engravers. These machines use a combination of abrasive wheels and engraving attachments. Without interruptions on such a device, you can work no more than 30 minutes.
When choosing a machine for circular knives, pay attention to the issue of the power of the device. In this component, the machines are divided into two types.
- Household. On a household grinding device intended for manual work, the duration of operation without interruptions cannot exceed 20 minutes. The electric drive allows for small-volume grinding operations. Household models are equipped with a small list of elements and are scarce in terms of options.
- Professional. A category of expensive machines that can work all day long without the need for a break. The electrical unit includes a speed switch, a set of accessories. An important feature is that with the help of accessories, you can set the desired turning angle of the knife.
Features of the device
When purchasing a machine for flat knives, or planning to assemble a device with your own hands, you should definitely find out about the design features of the unit.
- The main element of the machine is an electric motor.
- Another important component is the foundation.
- The structure, mounted on legs, has special mounts and a worktop.
- Abrasive elements are installed on both sides of the electric motor. They are located parallel to each other.
- Abrasive wheels and belts come in a variety of grit sizes. Some allow you to make a rough sharpening, and fine-grained provide the final surface finish.
- The electric motor is almost always asynchronous. This is due to its quiet operation and high rotation speed.
- The diameter of the abrasive disc is 100-250 millimeters with a thickness of 15-32 millimeters.
- Often, a part of the abrasive unit is covered by a cover to protect the master from swarf.
- The handcuffs for the supports of the processed tools can be moved closer or farther from the abrasive element, thereby changing the sharpening angle.
- Safety screens are the prerogative of professional machine tools. On household models, this element is rare. The screen is a transparent plastic plate.
- All buttons and controls are located on the machine body. If you have to work on the machine yourself, be sure to make sure that the control unit is convenient to use in your particular case.
Specifications
The manufacture of sharpening devices is a complex task. Therefore, it is better to make the right choice of a ready-made unit than to learn the nuances of self-production. In order for a household or professional sharpening unit designed for scissors, cutter knives, planers, planing tools to meet expectations, pay attention to:
- Power. The electric grinder can have a power of 350-1000 watts. If this is not a professional, but a home machine, it is enough to choose the option where the electric motor produces 500-800 watts. More powerful models will consume a lot of electricity, and the turning result will not change in any way. At the same time, low power will not be enough if it is a professional machine. A professional grinder chooses devices with a power of 750-1000 W;
- Nutrition. You will not have to lay a three-phase network yourself, since desktop sharpening devices are powered from a standard 220V household network;
- Rotational speed. To make high-quality sharpening of planers, cutters, kitchen knives, planer knives, shears for a haircut, you should select the appropriate speed mode of the abrasive wheel. A homemade tool can have a frequency of up to 1000 revolutions, like a household machine. A professional tool must have the function of regulating the speed of rotation, since each type of tool, grade of steel has its own requirements for sharpening features;
- Grinding wheel. The professional sharpener knows that the abrasive wheel plays one of the most important roles in ensuring a quality knife finish. Home machines can use wheels up to 150 mm in diameter. If this is a professional machine, a set of abrasive wheels is selected individually, based on the characteristics and specialization of the master;
- The rim diameter of the disc. If you make the wrong choice, the sharpening device will simply not fit or will dangle freely on the mounting assembly. Therefore, before buying a new disc, be sure to check what bore diameter your machine has;
- Dimensions, weight. Desktop devices are quite compact. But a professional tool is larger and heavier, since high-quality materials and a wider list of components are used in its manufacture. The main mass is created by an electric motor. There is also a manual sharpening tool, only its capabilities are much lower.
Having bought a sharpening machine for flat knives, cutting tools, planing knives or Chef's Choice products, carefully study the factory documentation and recommendations for use.
Making power tools is a daunting task. Based on the video instructions, many manage to create, if not a professional, then close to a household machine. The same Chef's Choice knives require careful maintenance. You can sharpen it if you follow all the established rules.
Self-production of the machine is a topical issue. But than to do it yourself, it is better to buy a professional machine. With them, your knives will always be in perfect condition. Its approximate price is from 30 thousand rubles.
Having a sharpening machine at home solves many problems with sharpening metal equipment, but, alas, the cost of such a machine is quite high. We will consider how to design a homemade sharpening machine further.
Functional features of the work and the device of the sharpening machine
For the purpose of sharpening various products of a steel nature, a sharpening machine is used. This unit consists of a frame to which an electric motor is attached. The motor is mounted with an axis shift of 1.5 °. A unit with a grinding device is attached to the motor shaft. If you move the unit manually, it is possible to sharpen the part in the horizontal and vertical directions.
The guide, which is located on two column parts, provides horizontal feed. It moves thanks to the presence of a worm-type transmission, which is located on the bed. On the end part of the worm shaft, a limb device is attached, which performs the direct movement of the grinding wheel.
The longitudinal feed should be carried out manually by moving the part that can be sharpened. The mandrel is another part of the sharpening machine that is attached to the posts. The fixation of the nodal holder is due to the presence of clamps-screws.
The holder contains a handle that allows the workpiece to pass over the machine. To carry out circular sharpening of a part, there is a hole to which an attachment is attached, which allows sharpening knives. On the holding device there is a component of the available type, with the help of which the tool is sharpened.
In relation to the type of work that is performed on the sharpening machine, there are several fundamental differences in the way the tools are sharpened. Allocate:
- sharpening using a holding device;
- radius version of sharpening with an attachment;
- sharpening with a handcuff.
The first option allows you to process an absolutely flat canvas with a straight edge. It includes the presence of:
- hand-type planer,
- jointers,
- metal jointer plates,
- chopped,
- bits.
Before starting work, you should pay attention to the location of the slide. It should be installed in the extreme left position. Next, the part is fixed using a bracket in the form of a letter P, fixing and clamping screws. The chamfering edge must be parallel to the tip of the grinding wheel. The gap between these parts should be 0.1-0.2 cm.
This is followed by turning on the device and sharpening. The person who works with the part must ensure that it makes easy contact with the grinding wheel. In this case, the left hand is responsible for the rotation of the transverse transmission, and the right hand moves the part longitudinally. The movement of the workpiece occurs exclusively along the working end part of the grinding wheel.
During sharpening of the radius type, a part of the attachment is used, which makes it possible to obtain an extraordinary sharpening on a tool with the presence of cutting edges.
If sharpening is carried out using the attachment, then the clamping brackets and fixing screws are disconnected. The attachment axis is set to the center of the machine and then fixed with a clamping screw.
If the attachment rotates easily, then it is installed correctly. Next, you need to fix the holder and move the slider to the middle of the grinder.
Advantages and scope of use of the sharpening machine
Grinding machines of the electromechanical type have a lot of advantages compared to devices of the manual type:
1. The ability to carry out many operations on sharpening various tools independently, without the involvement of a specialist.
2. Long service life allows using the sharpening machine for 10-15 years.
3. Mechanization of the sharpening process saves time and makes this process easier.
4. The ease of use of the sharpening machine allows even a non-professional to perform a variety of sharpening and grinding operations on metal parts.
5. Another advantage of this device is the possibility of its own production: this will significantly save on the purchase of this device.
6. The sharpening machines of the universal type are characterized by high productivity and work efficiency.
There are sharpening machines that can sharpen only one tool, and universal sharpening machines that are suitable for sharpening just about any piece of equipment.
Sharpening machines are able to sharpen a knife, chainsaw, drills, cutters, chisels, cutters, broaches. They also carry out internal and external grinding of the metal surface.
Sharpening of any tool is required almost anywhere, and therefore the scope of use of the sharpening machine is quite wide. They are used both in the private sector, in garages, in service stations, in workshops and in large industrial installations.
The main types of sharpening machines
In accordance with the method and subject of sharpening, the following machines are distinguished:
- universal type,
- specialized type.
The universal sharpening machine allows you to process parts of different types. They are equipped with conventional and special devices that fix and fix a variety of tools. Such machines are capable of grinding: reamers, shaped cutters, cutters, drills, dies, etc.
A specialized sharpening machine, differs from a universal one, by the ability to sharpen parts of only one type. They are distinguished by high productivity, since they do not require constant replacement of structural elements. Specialized machines are characterized by a more accurate processing quality of parts. Such machines are used in enterprises that grind parts or spare parts, or in the case when the sharpening on a universal machine is inaccurate.
Universal type machines are excellent at sharpening blade equipment such as chisels, milling cutters and reamers. They provide the ability to machine gear heads, cutters or hob cutters.
Specialized sharpening machines are divided into machines:
- for chainsaws,
- for drills,
- for knives, etc.
Chainsaw sharpeners are divided into two types: electric and manual. Sharpening on a manual machine requires precise sharpening of the chain. There is a possibility of fixing the position of the file, so all the teeth are sharp and have the same size.
In workshops specializing in sharpening chainsaws, electrical equipment is used. It includes a sharpening disc which, by means of a setting, precisely specifies the angle for sharpening.
DIY universal sharpening machine
To make a sharpening machine, you will need an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 1 kW, two pulleys, bearings with a shaft.
These parts are mounted on a bed, which is easiest to manufacture from steel corners.
For the assistant, you need to build a slewing bar that adjusts the tilt of the part in relation to the grinding wheel.
In the process of sharpening, the part should be installed so that it is in minimum contact with the circle. Gradually bring her closer.
The diagram of the sharpening machine is based on the correctness of calculations for the installation of the grinding wheel and the handguard.
1. Close the gap with the protective cover.
2. When working with the machine, use protective goggles to protect yourself from shrapnel getting into your eyes.
3. The maximum distance between platen and grinding wheel is 0.3 cm.
4. The length of the flanges responsible for the clamp should be no less than a quarter of the diameter of the circle.
5. A paronite gasket should be installed in the nut-flange space, it will ensure tightening of the nut on the gross section.
DIY drill sharpening machine
To save money on buying a drill sharpener, try making one yourself.
To do this, you will need:
- tumbler,
- grinding wheel,
- stubs,
- powerful electric motor,
- coasters,
- electrical wires,
To protect yourself in the process of work, it is recommended to install the machine on the bed, which will be closed, only the grinding wheel and the axis will be visible from the outside.
This unit will operate on mains power. The best place to install such a machine is a steel table.
Sharpening machine instruction:
1. Slide the grain disc onto the motor shaft. If the diameter of the disc does not match the diameter of the shaft, use a washer.
2. Then fix them with a fastening nut or use a special attachment, which will ensure reliable sharpening of the drill.
3. In the event that the size of the shaft is smaller than the size of the disc, a bushing is required. It is attached to the shaft with a bolt in a previously prepared hole.
Tip: When choosing an electric motor, a device from an old washing machine would be an excellent option.
4. The next step involves connecting the motor to the wires and socket. It is possible to use wires from old unnecessary electrical appliances.
5. Connect the wire to the trigger. It must have three open contacts. Connect them in such a way that with the help of a button it is easy to turn on and off the machine.
6. To protect the electric motor from dirt and dust, a protective box should be made for it.
Knife sharpening machine: manufacturing instructions
Consider several options for making homemade sharpening machines with which you can sharpen a knife.
The first option is a manual machine. For the manufacture of which you will need:
- wooden planks or boards,
- screws,
- sharpening bar.
Take two wooden squares and fasten them with screws, and insert a block between them. It must be securely fixed in the device. The size of the angle is calculated in relation to the required sharpening angle of the knife.
The main disadvantage of such a device is that the angle of inclination of the bar cannot be adjusted. It is required to disassemble the entire structure.
Another option consists of a threaded washer that holds the block in a secure position. Use shrink-type tubing to seal the threads.
Use two paper clips to secure the stand to the desired height. Thus, holding the bar in your hand, select the required incline level yourself and sharpen.
Another option for a manual machine will allow you to sharpen not only knives, but also chisels and planers. Fix the device to be sharpened into the block. The choice of the sharpening angle depends on the angle at which the bar will be located in relation to the tool. To ensure ease of sharpening and to protect the surface from damage, place a wooden board or glass under this unit.