A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds works on metal and wood in a short period of time. Stored here various tools and small details. In simple language, it is a special table on which you can make turning and locksmith products.
In addition to the table top, there may be multilayer structures shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.
Making a universal workbench is easy enough. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. During the creation process, you must follow the order of each action.
Self-production of such a structure will save a decent amount. In addition, an individual project helps to make a structure based on the parameters of your premises.
Varieties of the workbench
There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristics... In turn, they are divided into:
Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of such a product is made of high-strength metal alloy. This is for safety reasons. In the process of working on iron, sparks may be present.
In addition, the use of lubricants can leave marks on wooden surface... The iron base does not require any special maintenance.
Joiner. Its surface is made of solid wood... The joiner's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike locksmiths.
The universal table has a metal and wooden table top in its construction. The drawing of the workbench shows the arrangement of the carpentry work area.
What is included in the construction of the workbench?
If the product is made independently, then it is important to think over every little thing. Additional shelves and spacious hanging containers will help you to use this product rationally. The standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.
A homemade table can have both metal and wood system storage. An additional metal shield allows you to store small hanging tools here. The hacksaws and hammers will now be in the same place.
How to make a workbench with your own hands?
We bring to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. Manufacturing carpentry table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.
For this you will need:
- hacksaw;
- screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
- carpentry square;
- level;
- bolts;
- nuts;
- self-tapping screws;
- detailed drawing of the product;
- wrench.
From the materials you need to prepare:
- bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. In the selection process, you must pay Special attention the condition of the wood. Cracks and knots should not be present here;
- plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
- boards for the frame.
When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the workflow. It includes the following steps:
The initial action will be the construction of the lower frame in which the tools and locksmith... For this, the boards are sawn off to the right level... Then they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. As a result, you should get a rectangular shape.
A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future, it will reduce the resistance of the finished product during the work process, you will need a small wooden board.
The supporting legs of the table are fixed with bolts. For this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make from 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.
To stiffen the product, it is necessary to make a bottom shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked.Then long wooden planks are attached here. In the future, on their surface will be fixed Chipboard panel... She will act as the foundation.
When the main part of the frame is completed, proceed to the installation of the upper tabletop. You will need a hacksaw here. It removes unnecessary parts of the board.
Hardboard will help protect the surface of the wooden countertop. it durable material, which is designed for the work area.
To increase the storage system, you can use an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. Through holes are made in the support boards. After that, bolts are fixed metal base... In the photo of the workbench with your own hands, the sequence of each action is captured.
Photo of workbenches with your own hands
The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts on inaccurate equipment for more accurate parts. And it all began with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of settlements of the Stone Age. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its result.
Three mistakes
Amateurs, at times, judging by their designs, are very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches, on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years - one of the typical mistakes development of workbenches of our own design.
The second is vibration neglect. Not a clearly felt "game" or "recoil", but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.
The third - repeat the carpentry or locksmith's workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your hand. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are more or less specialized workbenches, or, conversely, universal, temporary from scrap materials, etc.
In this article, we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, it is simpler and cheaper in accordance with the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose or universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.
About universal workbenches
Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, complete locksmith's vice on a wooden pillow, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:
Prefabricated “universal” workbench
This is the wrong decision, not only because wooden table top from carpentry work is spoiled. The main thing that is bad here is the technological liquids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. The approach to designing a table top (board, lid) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - fine or rough, see below.
Work bench
In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting tabletop framed by a rim are widespread. Drawings of such a "work bench" are shown in Fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.
The workbench-bench dampens vibrations well; you can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, with long materials and furniture it is inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first see how to make the most common joinery workbench, then garage and locksmith's. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can think of on this basis for special needs.
Workbench composition
A workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin precisely) consists of:
- Understand (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in locksmiths), which ensures the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
- Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
- Shelves; possibly with a tray, sockets, and stops on which working operations are performed.
- The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not an obligatory accessory of the workbench, it can be hung on the wall or be replaced by a cabinet, a rack, etc.
Note: workbench dimensions in height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work in the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.
A lid with a shelf is most often performed at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, workbench or table top. To damp vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of softwood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpentry workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twigs, and other defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves simultaneously as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.
The traditional construction of the pedestal, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joinery's shelf. This comes from the master shabashniks of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / pedestal that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.
Bed: metal or wood?
Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel bed not only in lower cost and labor intensity. First of all, wood is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, the wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-damping, like the shops at a factory? And the general strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.
The structure of the wooden frame of the workbench made of 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertical downward for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Fastening two-sided; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - in pairs of self-tapping screws at the studs of the racks and, outside, with corners.
If there is a 150x50 or (180 ... 200) x60 timber available, the structure can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. Load bearing capacity will rise to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar of 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a bed that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.
Note: any of these beds are suitable for both carpentry and locksmith's workbenches. A box-shaped lid is placed on it under the joinery (see below), and under the locksmith, a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4-mm strips over the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, see also below.
If there is no welding
A solid wood workbench, without the need for welding work for its manufacture, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The "trick" is here in the countertop, assembled with glue from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the timber is oak, then permissible load- 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is a bar 150x75.
Metal
It happens the other way around: metal more accessible than a tree, and there is welding. Then a workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. The boxes are galvanized. The disadvantage is that you cannot make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.
A more convenient metal workbench is suitable for a load of 200/600 according to the scheme at the top right from a 50x50 professional pipe (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a 30x30x3 corner. The board cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) of grooved boards (120 ... 150) x40.
Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x self-tapping screws (30 ... 35) in pairs from each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this version will the workbench show the given bearing capacity.
These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adjusted, as described below. The locksmith vice is installed on a wooden cushion, but not with a clamp. A collet anchor is driven into the vise cushion from below under the M10-M14 bolt, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient in that it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.
For carpentry
Lid carpentry workbench, in contrast to the locksmith's, is attached to the sub-stitch tightly and is made box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fasteners for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. The pedestal can also be a steel bed from those described above.
How the carpenter's workbench works traditional type, shown in pos. And rice; belonging to it in pos. B. A bench board (in this case, it is a separate device) is used to work with a long gauge. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trim board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fix it in the slots with cone-headed bolts in a recessed position. The traditional construction of the joinery is shown in pos. D, but - see above.
It is possible to reduce the cost of the joiner's workbench cover by performing a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then quality hardwood planks are needed only for the shelf. It is laid by laying the boards in "humps" of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, squeezed tightly with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on a pillow with the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through thorns (inset at pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.
Vise for joinery
All-wood joinery vices, front and chair vices, are now almost completely superseded by the vise with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are needed here.
First, 2-3 steel washers must be placed under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly go through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not a purchased shaped one, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.
The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamping pad, so it is less likely that the nut will break off when clamping. But the thread will be ugly away from welding, you can't drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).
Note: the nut welded onto the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before passing the thread, so that the residual deformations "settle down".
Vise and joinery for locksmith
A vice on a locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see the sidebar in the figure) so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. Arrangement of cross beams and intermediate vertical posts a workbench with a stationary vise, it is advisable to make it a little asymmetrical, placing them with smaller gaps towards the corner with the vise. The vise is also installed starting from the corner:
- A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under the installation bolt, and a high nut or threaded bushing is welded into the metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
- If the fastener is welded, they are threaded with taps, as in a homemade joiner's vise nut, see above;
- They put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes in place for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
- The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
- Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
- For fastening to the bolt 4, a jib U from a wooden bar from 60x60 or a professional pipe from 40x40 is placed under the cover (tabletop). It is not necessary to fasten the jib, but it should rest from underneath to the upper frame (strapping) of the bed, but not to the table top!
- The vice is finally fastened to the bolt 4.
Note: a stationary power tool is also attached in the same way, for example. emery.
For carpentry
A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work, if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; caps from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fit many times.
Garage workbench
It is impossible to make the workbench in the garage optimal in terms of the ergonomics of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, by trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) turns out to be unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "calls back" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design
A diagram of the device of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: the cells of the frames of the cover and the bottom shelf of the edge far from the corner different sizes... Accuracy of installation of crossbars +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the bottom shelf are made of Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; can be easily replaced.
Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Depth into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wood 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.
More for the garage
Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and wall-mounted, on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls... 2-layer folding workbench; each layer of plywood 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a "milling cutter" means a mini-drilling machine with a movable turntable and a clamp for the part. The design is convenient in that the chips are poured directly onto the floor.
If your car is something like Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is quite small, then you can put a folding mini workbench-cabinet with a lifting table in it, on the right in the figure; he will fit into the house for fine work(electronics, precision mechanics). The table top is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cards. For folding, the legs are tucked under the table top (it would be useful to tie them with a projectile), and the table top is lowered.
Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench box may be optimal, see the video below.
Video: folding workbench drawer
Home station wagon
Houses are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, art sawing from plywood, etc. A universal workbench is suitable for fine fine work, the drawings of which and accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion ("stickiness" of parts), therefore the tabletop is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small ones, with screw clamping.
More about plywood
In general, it is undesirable to work with metal "roughly" on plywood, because she “calls back” well. If the pillow of the plank workbench is still made of plywood, then a frame (framing) also made of plywood must be glued to its underside on the PVA, see fig. Upper ( working side) then it is advisable to first cover with linoleum without lining, and then lay steel on it.
The growing shift
Another case when it is justified to make a workbench out of plywood is a student's workbench for a child. Here pedagogical considerations play a role: let him learn to feel the material and not beat in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave their students a bad instrument.
Workbenches at the dacha
When country house or others. light wooden the structure is still under construction, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case on hastily you can put together a joiner's workbench for giving from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things on bad equipment.
For subsequent work on the arrangement of the summer cottage, a mini-workbench will come in handy, on the right in Fig. At minimum consumption material and extremely simple design, it is sufficient for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on the bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the closet from weekends to weekends. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer cottage, inhabited all the time or all summer, with an artisan owner, by the way, you will need a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.
Each House master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench, equipped with all kinds of devices for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, you can buy a desktop from a retail chain. However, we recommend making it yourself. Firstly, this will allow you to get the product the right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench, additional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the saved money. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.
Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench
Durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during prolonged work with wooden parts
The carpenter's workbench is, in fact, massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least minimal set devices for fixing and holding blanks. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the workpieces being processed, as well as the free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.
The construction of a joinery workbench with a type-setting table top. In the picture: 1 - base or underlay; 2 - top board; 3 - miter box; 4 - screed; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam
Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of hand and power tools, the workbench is made from massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hard wood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic renewal. Often, the bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, installing them on the edge.
A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allow the installation of stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.
In order to facilitate the design, the support legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood... Between themselves vertical supports connect longitudinally installed timber to increase the stability of the product.
Typical carpentry workbench scheme
A vise of a special design is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fastening the workpieces. Moreover, on dimensional machines mount separate clamping devices for large and small parts. The best place The location of the joinery vice is the left side of the front apron and the proximal part of the right sidewall.
In the pedestal - the space between the supports, under the tabletop, they often equip comfortable shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.
For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the tabletop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.
Types and design
All homemade joinery work tables can be divided into three types:
- Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements... Such machines are intended for work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option when space is limited and can be installed in any room in the country or on a balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.
Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design
If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small renovation works or making small parts you can remodel your old writing desk.
- A stationary carpenter's workbench is made with reference to a specific place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows processing parts of any size and weight.
A stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the characteristics of the room
- Composite type machine is the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this structure, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the workbench are bolted together.
The compound workbench is a structure that can be customized to suit any requirement
Project and drawings
When designing a carpentry workbench, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is imperative to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.
Considering that it will take a long time to work at the carpentry workbench, the highest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.
Carpentry Workbench Blueprint
When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is flush with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the tabletop, then you can work tirelessly at such a workbench for several hours.
The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for this purpose. Professional carpenters have long defined optimal size countertops - maximum 2 m long and 0.7 m wide. On such a workbench, you can make a prefabricated wooden door and a small window with equal convenience.
When designing a structure, do not forget about strength. supporting frame... For supporting structural elements, a bar with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use slats and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm and more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental structure.
Joiner's workbench. View from above
Often, the frame, or in another way the workbench frame, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material allows you to make a structure with less labor costs adjustable height, professional carpenters prefer an all-wood structure.
Next, consider the project of a carpentry table¸ made of plywood, or rather, of two 1.8 mm thick plywood sheets glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the dimensions presented are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.
Required tools and materials
Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is sufficient expensive material(the price of one sheet with the size of 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles excluding the cost of delivery). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, more dimensional sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase plywood scraps with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to strengthen the workbench cover around the perimeter.
Additionally, for the construction of a carpentry machine, you will need:
- a wooden beam with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
- timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
When choosing lumber for your joinery workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous stress; - electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
- pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
- joiner's glue. A good result can be obtained using the domestic adhesive "Moment Stolyar";
- furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
- Circular Saw;
- carpentry square;
- long rule (at least 2 m);
- construction level;
- notched spatula with cut-out sectors of at least 3 mm;
- joinery clamps.
The clamps required to squeeze the plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are not a professional carpenter and do not have quality tool, you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made jigs. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.
Manufacturing instruction
- To make a tabletop, cut two pieces with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of the maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece of 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you get two pieces of 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.
High-quality adhesion ensures the clamping of the countertop parts with clamps
In order to properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning their convex sides to each other.
- Laying one piece on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use direct and notched trowels... Remember that the work must be done very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to seize prematurely. The manufacturer of the Moment Carpenter glue recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of the application of the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue that has no time limit. Of course, the bond strength will be slightly reduced, but even good quality PVA furniture mix will provide an acceptable degree of adhesion.
To avoid damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps.
- Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table top and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It is not possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, therefore, in this part, you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
You can glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.
- After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and the side surfaces of the countertop are reinforced. For this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued along the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When performing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely overlaps the joining points.
Reinforcement of the sides of the bench table with additional plywood strips
- A circular saw is used to trim the side surfaces of the table. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The size of the tabletop is 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
- The workbench supports are made of a bar with a cross section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber is used with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.
Making a frame for a joinery workbench
- The legs are assembled "in a thorn" or using dowels, always applying wood glue to the parts to be joined.
- When assembling the upper and lower frame of the pedestal, the angles of 90 degrees between the parts are scrupulously maintained. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The frame width of our facility is 900 mm and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom stalk of 150 mm.
Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.
If desired, you can build a shelf in the podstachye. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.
Installation of additional equipment
It is impossible to imagine a real carpentry workbench without devices designed for fixing workpieces to be processed. For this purpose, a vice is attached to the finished countertop in such a way that their lips are flush with the surface of the lid. To correctly install the fixture on the workbench, the vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes are drilled with a diameter of 12 mm and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.
View of the finished product with the installed vice
If it is not possible to install a stationary vise, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.
In addition to the vice, there are stops on the desktop. To do this, a number of holes are drilled in the tabletop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. The sockets for the supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vice. This will allow you to securely fix any size workpiece.
Video: Do-it-yourself joiner's workbench
Building a joinery workbench is a rather difficult task. However, with my own hand assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only thinking over the ergonomics of the working space and correctly preparing the project of the structure, but also performing the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then will the resulting product be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.
The garage is a multifunctional space. You can put and repair cars in it, design and manufacture various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace... The workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can work various materials, carry out locksmith, electromechanical and assembly work... Also, in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry) processing. The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the tabletop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave traces on a wooden surface.
Also when processing metal parts often force is required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.
Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.
Workbench construction
If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think over every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped with drawers that can be crafted from wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for a hanging tool, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Grinder with a wheel for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding.
Materials (edit)
Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square tube 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for table top 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm
Drawer guides.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench, which will be made of these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm. The overall design and a large table top allow you to place a vice and, for example, emery or other tools at different ends of the table.
The first step in making a workbench is cutting the existing material into elements. Profile pipe intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.
The desk drawers are made of plywood.
The second step is welding power frame workbench. The elements of the table top are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame should be welded so that one more frame from the corners can be welded on top of it, into which the boards of the table top will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will serve as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, reinforcing the structure.
After base frame ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. For this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is making a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners with a length of 750 mm, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wood planks lay inside it.
The frame from the corner is laid on the frame made of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffening ribs.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the lathing of the panel for attaching the tool. It takes one metal corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The toolbox is welded to the worktop.
A frame made of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. With these holes, the side and rear walls plywood tables will be attached to metal frame workbench.
The fourth stage is the manufacture of desk drawers. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If there are small parts, then you can build 3 boxes, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
Drawers can be positioned on both sides of the table, pull-out structures can be mounted on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the other.
After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer sections. A slide for the drawer guides will be attached to these holes from the inside.
The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into workpieces of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If long boards are not available, you can lay the workpieces across the table. For this purpose, wood with a width of 205 mm is cut into 10 pieces with a length of 740 mm.
Before placing the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then, without fail, it is required to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosion coating option. The welding seams should be painted especially carefully. It is recommended to thoroughly clean metal drops and irregularities before painting. This can be done with an angle grinder with a metal disc.
After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and dry out when the temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded to make it easier to lay the sheet metal over the wood. Boards along the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is the fastening of the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the worktop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden screws to the wood planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint and varnish coating, it is easy to restore and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the paint that covered the frame. It will be nice, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.
The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls., shelves and power board in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After the work with plywood is over, it must be covered with a compound that will protect the material from impact environment... Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or self-tapping screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.
In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vise on a locksmith workbench
A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the worktop itself. It is best to place a 1 cm thick metal gasket between the table metal and the tool. Drilling holes for anchor bolts is required in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the countertop. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for homemade workbench construction
- If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not swaying and not budging with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized so that nothing would interfere with the person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools must be removed from the tabletop.
- Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench, you need to remove the workplace from metal shavings, oil drops and other materials.
- If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Plywood for shield
Video - DIY workbench in the garage
The device and purpose of the workbench
The joiner's workbench is a work table for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic carpentry workbench allow fixing parts in various spatial positions and with maximum convenience to perform basic carpentry operations: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them finishing compounds... Traditional carpentry table It is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer workpieces, use a carpenter's workbench.
The table for carpentry work consists of a workbench (cover) and a substructure (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vise. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed by the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness wooden parts, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to find the optimal workbench height?
The height of the joinery workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height tables are selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, palms rest freely on its lid, then the size is selected correctly. Behind such a workbench, it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are better for making a structure?
A joiner's workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is exposed to high loads, both static, generated under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of the fasteners, but also the type of materials used.
For the manufacture of the base, coniferous wood is traditionally used. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create a bench board must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a workbench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, joining the edges, gluing the board and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the savings.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, chiseling, etc., it is better to cover the work surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to fit the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The sidewall structure consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.
The curly cutouts of the tsars and supports (detail A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the nests for the prongs are marked on the legs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On outside of the legs counter to the tapered recess under the head of the tightening bolt. A depression with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing out thorns and eyelets
Spikes and lugs are made on a saw machine or manually, guided by the basic principles of creating spike joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it minimizes errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove, which will prevent displacement.
Sidewall assembly
Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has emerged is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is ground.
A 19x38 mm hole is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side for the dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.
Manufacturing of stitches and under-shelf shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the projections (detail C) are cut out in an amount of 4 pieces. At the ends of each part, spikes are made, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.
The connection of the projectors to the sidewall is made detachable on a bolted tie with a transverse nut. For this on inside a recess is milled for transverse nuts d25 mm and 32 mm deep. A hole of 14X95 mm is drilled at the ends of the projections. It is best to use a drilling jig at this stage, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.
The support strips (details D and E) are screwed in with self-tapping screws with an indent of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.
According to the dimensions specified in the drawing "General detailing", the strips of the underside shelf are cut out (detail F). At the ends of each strip, holes are drilled and countersunk. The slats are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Installing the bench cover
On the back side of the bench board, blind holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep are drilled for dowels (L).
With a d19 mm drill on the cover, through holes are made for bench stops. Similar sockets with a depth of 45 mm are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the slots and not play.
Advice! Use a drill with a jig for all drilling operations to ensure neat holes at perfect right angles. It will not be difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber on hand.
Installation of bench vice
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a joiner's vice ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and what is important, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Bench vise manufacturers strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram typical designs... But you may well have to improvise, adapting the installation to the peculiarities of non-standard bench vice.
Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - sawn out from wood hard rocks... After that, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for fixing screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden pads (detail K) are sawn out to fit the vise size. Through holes are drilled in the sidebars for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! For accurate marking of holes, use the guides themselves, pieces masking tape and a soft pencil.
