Any wood product, be it furniture, doors, window frames or something else, needs finishing. And the point here is not only in appearance, although it is also in it, but also in the protection of organic material from external factors. Home craftsmen often face difficult choice way finishing wood. Moreover, even for an experienced carpenter, wood finishing is not an easy task.
Despite the fact that wood itself has a wonderful appearance, it is still necessary to trim it. There are technologies that allow both preserving its original appearance of wood and changing it beyond recognition. In both cases, processed wood products will last for many years, while in the raw form they will deteriorate after a few years.
All used finishing compositions for wood can be divided into four groups: pure oils, mixtures of varnish and oil, varnishes and synthetic compositions on water based. For more information about the components and properties of various varnishes, read a separate material on this site in the section " paints and varnishes».
Most of the finishing materials for wood fall into the above groups, with the exception of polish and shellac. The latter is a waste product of tropical insects; and polish in this context is a shellac alcohol solution used to polish wooden surfaces.
There is a common misconception among amateur carpenters that high-quality finishing must be done mechanically. However, it is not. Almost any of the existing liquids can be applied by hand. At the same time, observing the technology of application and subsequent processing, it is possible to achieve very high results. Remember the vintage musical instruments or antique furniture, from the shiny surfaces of which you cannot take your eyes off.
First of all, you need to learn that a beautiful wooden surface is achieved by careful processing. Finishing can be good, but it can also be very good. Between the one and the other - the time spent and the patience of the master.
What tools may be needed for finishing wood with oil and varnish formulations?
Standard tools for varnishing and polishing consist of: 
- cleaning wipes to collect dust from lint-free rags, such as impregnated gauze;
- a set of sandpapers for dry sanding of the finished coating and intermediate layers (No. 320, 400, 500);
- pumice powder and limestone for surface treatment with oil. Pumice creates a matte effect, while limestone enhances the shine;
- wax finishing paste, which is applied to the treated surface in order to restore gloss and make it water-repellent;
- sticks for stirring sediment in jars with varnish;
- foam rollers for applying finishing oils. With their help, oils are quickly and evenly distributed over the surface;
- brushes with artificial bristles used for applying water-soluble varnishes;
- brushes with natural bristles for applying oil-based varnishes;
- foam rubber sponges, which can be used to apply varnishes and oils, but not shellac and varnish;
- seamless cotton swabs for finishing varnish application;
- mandrels for pressing brushes and rollers;
- steel and synthetic tangles (nulls) to smooth the surface of the finish or muffle the gloss of the finish layer.
Undiluted (clean) finishing oils
Pure finishing oils include raw linseed, walnut, tung, and some mineral oils. They have a high penetrating power and do not form a hard film on the wood surface. The oil does not protect the surface from scratches, but the absence of a fragile film still makes it less sensitive to scratches. 
Coating the wood with undiluted oil improves its appearance: the products begin to shine, and their structure becomes more expressive. However, pure oils are not suitable for opening furniture as they will trap dust. However, all other surfaces opened with oil fade over time, but again restore their luster when re-opened. Natural oils are good because they are absolutely environmentally friendly.
Many masters at finishing decorative items often used linseed oil and drying oil, sometimes only as the first layer. Linseed oil, unlike linseed oil, which contains seccatives (substances that reduce the drying time), can dry for weeks, so it is used much less frequently.
Oil finishes are the easiest to apply. On flat surfaces, oil is applied with a foam roller, and on embossed surfaces - with a swab. After application, you need to let the oil soak into the wood for an hour, after which remove the excess with a cotton rag, running it along the fibers.
Curing oils require longer exposure after application. They are applied in several layers, from five or more. Each subsequent layer must be applied after the previous one has dried.
Some carpenters cover with oil cutting boards or worktops made of solid wood. Water washes the oil out of the fibers rather quickly, so the oil coating needs to be renewed frequently.
Mixtures of oils and varnish
Oil finishes with added lacquer are called Danish oil. It is diluted with mineral spirits; desiccants are introduced into its composition, which reduce the drying time. Not a large number of varnish significantly improves the performance of the finish. Danish oil can be further enhanced by adding an oil-based polyurethane finishing mix in a 3:1 ratio. Exceeding the content of polyurethane finish more than this proportion is not recommended, because. the mixture will become too thick and difficult to apply.
An oil-lacquer mixture is excellent for most wood products, with the exception of those that are exposed to various negative impacts. For example, you should not use them when opening a kitchen countertop, but for magazine or coffee tables they fit very well.
Each coat of oil/lacquer finish dries for a minimum of 12 hours. It is better to withstand a day after applying each layer. Drying time can be extended at low temperatures or high humidity.
Lucky
Most varnishes used today are based on synthetic resins, although natural resins were used in the past. The thing is that synthetic resins, such as polyurethane and acrylic, have higher strength. Yacht lacquer is very popular, containing a lot of oil, which gives the lacquer film high elasticity. The latter is especially important for wood, which is subject to periodic moisture, as a result of which its linear dimensions change. Yacht varnish also contains special inhibitors that create an ultraviolet filter, and thereby protect the tree from the damaging effects of sunlight.
For better penetration varnish in the structure of wood, it is diluted with mineral spirits. The varnish from this turns out to be more liquid, and in this form it is better to apply it with a swab. In this case, the number of layers should be greater than when using undiluted varnishes.
A well-absorbed varnish can be made by yourself. To do this, a part of the colored solvent is added to the usual oil-based polyurethane varnish.
When applying varnishes, care must be taken to ensure that the film created is not too thick, since the excess cannot be removed, as is the case with oil-lacquer mixtures.
The varnish for the very first layer can be quite thick, but when applying subsequent layers, it is better to make it more liquid. So the varnish will dry faster, and the layers will be thinner and more uniform.
The varnish is applied with a brush along the fibers, starting from the middle of the board and towards its ends. If any defects form in the varnish layer (for example, pile sticks), then it will be possible to remove them later by cleaning these places with a fine-grained sandpaper. Dried out varnish surfaces, cleaned with an abrasive, become matte, but regain their shine after re-application of varnish. If the wood was tinted with a stain, then you cannot clean it without first applying 2-3 layers of varnish, otherwise the tinting may rub off along with the varnish.
Water-based varnishes
In liquid form, such varnishes have a cloudy appearance, up to a milky color. They become transparent after drying. Water-based varnishes are the most environmentally friendly, while they are not inferior to oil varnishes made from the same resins. The transparency coefficient of hardened water-soluble varnishes is the highest. In their pure form, they are completely colorless. Thus, if you want to keep the original color of the wood without the slightest change, then you need to use only water-soluble varnishes. Of course, they do not distort the color of stain, and even white enamel.
Water-based varnishes are applied with brushes with synthetic bristles (preferably nylon). The temperature of the varnish should be within 23°-30°C. If the nail polish jar is too cold, you can warm it up by immersing it in warm water. Water-based varnishes can only be diluted with distilled water and not more than 10%.
If there is no experience in finishing wood at all, then it is better to practice on a piece of board first. It is desirable that this board be from the same wood as the product in need of finishing. Mastery will come with time.
1st_Pilot 07-05-2010 21:04
In this topic, you can discuss various issues of wood processing.
Comrades! I found out after the first hunting season that the coating of the IZHMEKHA tree was worn out! those. it is practically gone. The question arose of wood processing! I have a nut. Who handled what? As I understand it, I'm not the first to encounter such a problem ... I considered the option of processing wood with linseed oil using all technologies, but it's very confusing ... I want to travel to the stand! And in oil, well, the whole process takes a lot of time, I would also like the tree not to change color during processing. So I'm looking for advice on this! thank you all in advance!
Murlakatam 07-05-2010 21:56
I have a nut. Who handled what?
Similar question
And in general, I think that such a change of clothes will not be superfluous, depending on the hunting conditions.
mnkuzn 11-05-2010 12:59
I soaked the stock with linseed oil for the forend. The tree took a lot of it. Before impregnation toned with potassium permanganate. It turned out well, but a bit dark.
It takes a long time for the oil to dry, yes. More precisely, it polymerizes. And he also has such a feature - if you constantly saturate, not allowing the oil to dry, then it will penetrate too deeply into the tree. If this is not necessary, you can take drying oil - it will not penetrate so deeply, just a few mm, but it will harden faster. in good natural drying oil there are additives that accelerate polymerization. Look in the topic about Izh43kn. There, Outsiders V well described the technology of impregnation with drying oil. Good, they say, Shaftol from Clover (the office that Ballistol does). Under no circumstances is varnish necessary...
1st_Pilot 11-05-2010 04:31
Yes thank you! I read several branches and came to the conclusion that I will not rush, but I will do it as it should, but for a long time ... I will impregnate with natural linseed drying oil and finish this business with DANISH OIL. Very beautiful colour it turns out
snake-66 22-06-2010 12:49
Beautiful ...... the finished result from the propika shaftol, it seems to turn out faster than linseed oil?
1st_Pilot 22-06-2010 01:25
It took 8 days for everything! Polymerizes in 5 days
Agava 07-07-2010 14:24
quote: Originally posted by mnkuzn:
And yet, braza, will Shaftol work on flax or does it make sense to apply it only to a bare tree?
Worked. Recently I tested it on my Izha (nut). The previous owner processed linen. I applied 5 coats of shaftoll, one coat every day. Right now, polished with a piece of drape. Everything worked out great. Does not stink, does not stick to hands, water rolls down in large drops.
Agava 07-07-2010 14:29
Or maybe someone has an MP-133? I wonder if a pistol grip from the 153rd Murka is suitable for it. It would be absolutely wonderful if someone posts a photo of the place and method of attachment to the receiver. I know it's a screw, but it's better to see it once.
Zol51 08-07-2010 23:36
The 133 and 153 grips and stocks are interchangeable and have the same mount.
Murlakatam 11-07-2010 19:49
People, tell me the subtlety
When processing wood, does it cover everything or just the outer part?
I'm especially interested in the inside of the forearm
I already dressed my beauty in plastic for a while, prepared everything, but this question put me in a stupor ...
1st_Pilot 11-07-2010 22:06
I applied shaftol from the inside with a thin brush, probably applied 5 layers in total, I thought that was enough. On the notch, I generally applied 1 layer on the advice of Konstantinych. If you apply more, the notch will become very dark, it will not be gut. Since the fibers of the tree are completely open there, the shaftol is absorbed very, very well.
Murlakatam 11-07-2010 22:27
quote: Originally posted by 1st_Pilot:
If you apply more, the notch will become very dark.
So I will impregnate for the quality of preservation, and not just for beauty.
1st_Pilot 12-07-2010 01:32
one layer is enough for a notch! and beauty will be preserved!
Agava 12-07-2010 07:51
I have, though not on the Murka, but on Izh-12, the notch is darker than the rest of the tree due to advanced years. Taki applied 2 layers to it (notch) with a toothbrush. That was enough. The goal, like the majority, is preserved, and then beauty.
feeder 26-07-2010 09:31
Tell me, does it make sense to process the tree on a new gun, naturally without removing the factory coating.
1st_Pilot 26-07-2010 09:36
Anyone will have to remove the factory coating, but there is a point ... after a couple of three hunts in the rain (or even in fog), believe me, little will remain of the factory coating .. but with impregnation it is both beautiful and practical!
feeder 26-07-2010 09:56
And shaftol, in your opinion, is reliable and for a long time?
1st_Pilot 26-07-2010 10:12
look in this thread there are a couple of topics on wood processing, draw your own conclusions
alchemist 26-07-2010 12:44
remove the old coating - and at least 5 layers of Danish oil ...
tale!
feeder 26-07-2010 14:12
alchemist 26-07-2010 14:26
quote: Originally posted by feeder:
Where can you buy it. What magic does it happen to?
At exhibitions, in many woodworking shops there are ...
http://yandex.ru/yandsearch?text=Danish+oil&lr=213
alchemist 26-07-2010 15:03
now in such heat - danish oil in a day - 5 layers only on the way
especially if you body it for the first layers.
1st_Pilot 28-07-2010 10:46
alchemist, if it’s not difficult to attach a photo of your work ... it’s very interesting what happened
alchemist 28-07-2010 13:42
photo... I won’t get to the safe soon, can I say it in words?
1. What Sasha Hummel did - he removed the old coating, on Izh 27, polished everything with steel wool, degreased it, diluted the first layers with gasoline, polished each layer. Then without gasoline and so many layers until the tree stops taking Danish oil. It turned out great, the water runs off ... but it shines
1st_Pilot 28-07-2010 13:51
Yes, the technology is almost the same everywhere, I just wanted to look at the result
alchemist 28-07-2010 22:36
I'll post it, I just can't get it to the safe)))
Mnu light walnut turned out not shiny, the layers dried on the balcony in the hellish heat.
Well, Izh 54 also processed.
I will say this - I climbed after the dog so that the butt was completely in the water. Nothing swelled or cracked. Nice to the hands.
Leshiu 16-09-2010 09:12
Is it necessary to remove the factory coating in places of the drawing (or whatever it is called) on the bed?
mnkuzn 18-09-2010 09:28
quote: Is it necessary to remove the factory coating in places of the drawing (or whatever it is called) on the bed?
Whether you need it or not is up to you. I believe that if you do a complete processing, then you need to shoot. We do this: we take toothbrush with half-cut bristles and wash off the coating with, say, acetone. You can also take a brush for cleaning nubuck - it is hard and has metal fibers in it.
Leshiu 18-09-2010 10:11
And inside the box, too, need to be processed? Or is the outside enough?
mnkuzn 18-09-2010 10:41
I also processed inside - especially at the ends. Because when the wood is cut across the fibers, it absorbs liquids very well. Therefore, it is necessary to process the surface of the part as much as possible, incl. and inside.
sergey56 21-09-2010 19:34
GUYS .... tell me in detail, for people like me (dummies to put it mildly) how it is necessary to cover this shaftol according to the technology, namely:
1. after cleaning, everything is clear ...
2. If there are dents, remove them with sandpaper or with glycol and a soldering iron?
3. do you need to degrease???
4. what brush to apply????
4.1. brush Material,
4.2. how many strokes in one place,
5 how it spreads
6.how to achieve uniformity
7.intercoat exposure
8.What is the best condition to be weighed for application and drying
9. how many better coats per day and in general
10. how to determine that it is completely dry
11. how to polish???
Please respond as soon as possible ... there is a new orthopedic butt, the forearm will come the day after tomorrow and I can’t wait to change my murka
1st_Pilot 21-09-2010 23:42
2. Not very old dents are removed with a soldering iron (up to 1 year for sure) well, if not very deep. If deep then sandpaper.
3. It is not necessary to degrease, remove the old coating with a solvent (if varnish).
4. Anyone! Better than a little one, she's more comfortable. You can use a rag swab made of lint-free fabric.
4.1. Any.
4.2. Apply a thin, even layer, so that there is a coating but not very greasy so that it does not drain, besides, it is absorbed almost immediately in the first stages.
5. Sufficiently liquid (xs decide for yourself not everything is critical)))).
6. No way, he will lie down evenly! More like absorbed. Well, respectively, based on the structure of the tree.
7. I applied layers with a break of 30-40 minutes, waited until completely absorbed (when the shine disappears, you can apply a new layer) on the first day I got about 15 layers (like).
8. I applied it in my hands, then I just put it on the end of the window sill, put polyethylene on it, because it will be problematic to remove the shaftol if you get something dirty.
9. Yes, how long is enough. You then coordinate by color, as you get the desired "darkness", so to speak, you can stop. I applied 3 days, on the first day 15 layers and the next 2 days, a layer every evening.
10. A resistant film is formed on the surface and will not stick to hands. Drying (polymerization is more correct) will take about 5-7 days.
11. I polished in the process before applying shaftoll with sandpaper 280, 400, 800, 1500, 2000. After curing with felt and cloth. Very important point this is the so-called cleaning of the pile, it must be carried out after final grinding have not yet begun to apply shaftol! wet the tree with a damp cloth and let it dry for about 10-15 minutes (during this time the pile rises), remove the pile with sandpaper 1500 and wet again! This process must be repeated at least 5 times! I did 7! After that, polish 2000 and go!)) It is this process that will affect the final result! The wood will be smooth and shiny!
ugh.. like everything! Good luck!
1st_Pilot 22-09-2010 12:04
that's all now)))
sergey56 22-09-2010 11:07
quote: wet the tree with a damp cloth and let it dry for about 10-15 minutes (during this time the pile rises), remove the pile with 1500 sandpaper and wet it again! This process must be repeated at least 5 times! I did 7! After that, polish 2000 and go!)) It is this process that will affect the final result! The wood will be smooth and shiny!
and if wet 2000 on wet wood???? for lint cleaning
1st_Pilot 22-09-2010 11:18
no need, moisture is needed in order for the pile to rise ... and it is better to remove it when it dries
sergey56 23-09-2010 15:50
and also as a warning to those who will do it: the grate (notch) must be washed off first, and then the rest must be sanded
zabuqrai78 23-09-2010 18:46
Experienced, tell me. I bought a new MP-153 gun, can the forearm and buttstock be varnished, and how reliable will it be. Thanks in advance.
1st_Pilot 24-09-2010 12:40
It’s not reliable at all, if you get caught in the rain while hunting it will go white spots, it doesn’t protect at all .. Soak with linen shaftol, etc.
sergey56 24-09-2010 14:49
even the varnish cracks in the cold .... the same as for the trunk bare hand hold on....
Right now I’m processing my tree with a shaft ..... it turns out cool (the butt is beech and the forearm is a nut, and you can tell the hell)
sergey56 24-09-2010 14:53
my observations during the preparation of the tree and the application of the first coat of shaftol:
the walnut is better polished, you can get a chic shine on a clean tree, but you can absorb this shaftol more dexterously ....
sergey56 24-09-2010 17:40
Weird.....what the hell?????? on the third layer, the shaftol began to be poorly absorbed and a lot of varnish just spreads and flows onto the cellophane .....
I put the butt and forearm vertically and when impregnating on the third layer, this varnish evenly spread over the wood, after 10 minutes it was absorbed from above (maybe it dripped ... h..z.) and below it is still glossy and smudges appear on the cellophane under the butt .... what is good???? or....
1st_Pilot 24-09-2010 18:23
wait until it is absorbed again! three layers is not enough
1st_Pilot 24-09-2010 18:24
a thin layer of smear and wait until it is absorbed
zabuqrai78 24-09-2010 20:29
And how is it better to apply shaftol, otherwise I bought it and there is not a word in Russian?
sergey56 24-09-2010 23:11
see post NN 55.56 everything is there
sergey56 25-09-2010 18:36
And so .... finished the bottle of shaftol and ..... conclusions on processing: for beech (handguard + butt) half a bottle of 6-8 layers is enough, because then it absorbs very poorly, but the whole bottle needs 10 ...15 layers absorbs thorough...
I was in the store today, I wanted to buy another bottle, but the seller dissuaded ... -We have weapons restorers who take it and say that the bottle is enough for two stocks and the whole bottle on the forearm with the butt finished ....
the color is the same (butt beech and forearm walnut) but the texture fails if you look closely ...
I'm waiting for polymerization ... in a week I'll unsubscribe about the fun of polishing
Dankvart 27-09-2010 06:07
I screwed up in general.
He took off the factory coating, sanded everything, raised the pile.
Started impregnation with shaftol. I applied 4 layers, and take the fore-end, and crack it.
Obviously, this is due to what hung in the sun.
I'll have to freeze my hands with plastic in the winter :-(
sergey56 27-09-2010 13:48
we have a set of plastic 1600, and a butt in a tree 2500, I ordered an orthopedic one (with delivery it turned out 4100) until it cracked, it dries on the stove for the second day ....
but it will burst at your time, and so in the cold, on the hunt, and after a shot with a magnum .... imagine what would happen ?????
in terms of plastic, the only gain is that it does not get wet and scratched .... otherwise (beauty, balance, maintainability) not ICE at all
sergey56 27-09-2010 13:51
damn it... I messed everything up... (fore-end with a butt) and the fore-end costs about 900r... look at Grandfather Mazay's online store and the cheap shaft is there...
sergey56 29-09-2010 19:44
It’s been drying for four days already .... the color has brightened by half a tone and a matte gloss has begun to appear .... we’ll wait a couple more days and then I’ll start polishing
sergey56 30-09-2010 15:13
Yes! Another important point! The notch is best cleaned with solvent 646-647 and a toothbrush cut in half! And do not apply more than 2 layers of shaftol on the notch .. since the wood fibers are cut there, it is absorbed very well and if you apply more than 2 layers, you get a color difference! the notch will be darker which does not look very nice!
that's all now)))
1st_Pilot listen .... it turns out that while processing the butt we are pursuing the goal of impregnating the tree and protecting it from external atmospheric precipitation, but here it turns out that we don’t protect the notch nifiga ??? (2...3 layers is not enough, it's the same as your words) or vice versa... if 2...3 layers for a notch is enough, then the same is quite enough for the rest of the tree, or am I not understanding something ????
if 2 ... 3 layers per butt, then just a bottle is enough for two butts (as our weapons restorers do)
Guys...let's talk...
1st_Pilot 30-09-2010 21:12
On the notch, the fibers are "open" there, the shaftol is better absorbed, instantly ... In addition, with further impregnation on the notch, the shaftol will seem to linger, it will become shorter. Two layers behind the eyes, he himself did according to the instructions of the guru on the impregnation of the lodges of the moderator Konstantinych, he is special in this matter. It will just be very ugly! The tree will be with a pattern, the correct color and the notch will be black
mnkuzn 01-10-2010 09:40
quote: The tree will be with a pattern, the correct color and the notch will be black
I didn't see anything like it on the linen.
sergey56 01-10-2010 11:16
[B] On the notch of the fiber, the shaftol is better absorbed there, instantly ... In addition, with further impregnation on the notch, the shaftol will seem to linger, it will become shorter. Two layers behind the eyes, he himself did according to the instructions of the guru on the impregnation of the lodges of the moderator Konstantinych, he is special in this matter. It will just be very ugly! The tree will be with a pattern, the correct color and the notch will be black
So when the pile is removed, the same fibers open ... you can even see them ... especially on beech ...
So how many layers of shaftol are considered sufficient for impregnation????? How much is needed to PROTECT THE WOOD and not for beauty?????
1st_Pilot 01-10-2010 12:45
Everything is dealt differently, someone until the desired color is obtained (if the shade is dark), and someone until it stops absorbing ... That is, they smear it over the layer every day until it stops absorbing. For example, I got about 20 layers ... on the first day I applied about 15 (maybe a little more) and then two more days on the layer. On the hunt, I got under a specific rain, and it got soaked to the skin, the rain poured all day, at least henna to the tree. If the color is not important, then cover until it stops absorbing.
sergey56 18-10-2010 22:14
yesterday I came from hunting .... the butt turned out to be long (it’s hard to throw up) .... today I decided to shorten it by 15mm ... after sawing off, on a cut of a tree I saw this picture: SHAFTOL, or rather its 10 layers penetrated into the tree by 1.5 ...2mm deep. I don't think the results are bad...
1st_Pilot 19-10-2010 09:07
Post pics, what happened?
sergey56 19-10-2010 10:18
Right now, the "remains" of the butt, or rather the butt, I go through the shaft again ... I'll polish it and take a picture ...
rexfy 21-10-2010 21:03
quote: Originally posted by Murlakatam:
Similar question
Share your experience is there a treatment option without crap in the whole ass
By the way, at the time of processing, I personally looked after a set of plastic
rexfy 21-10-2010 21:06
Originally posted to Murlakatam:
[B]
Similar question
Share your experience is there a treatment option without crap in the whole ass
By the way, at the time of processing, I personally looked after a set of plastic
And in general, I think that such a change of clothes will not be superfluous, depending on the hunting conditions.
Two years ago, I covered the whole tree with tikkurila varnish for boats, not a single chip.
sergey56 26-10-2010 21:02
quote: Similar question
Share your experience is there a treatment option without crap in the whole ass
By the way, at the time of processing, I personally looked after a set of plastic
And in general, I think that such a change of clothes will not be superfluous, depending on the hunting conditions.
it's simple:
In short, I recommend as I tried it myself
zabuqrai78 27-10-2010 19:17
I also bought Polyurethane Yacht Varnish today, covered it today, let's see how it will look. I want to do 3 layers. Then I'll post pictures.
zabuqrai78 30-10-2010 18:53
It turned out great. Happy as an elephant.
nikokhot 30-10-2010 21:52
Clearly, it is written:
quote: Bought Polyurethane Yacht Lacquer today
I cover bird cages with yacht varnish, and on the butt-forearm I recognize only oil-
it does not peel off over time, but only fades, but this does not spoil the view (as is the case with varnish) and is easily restored (rubbing after hunting with the same oil).
It is possible that someone with varnish will turn out great and durable, BUT - not mine.
zabuqrai78 31-10-2010 12:58
Tell me where in Moscow you can make a notch and how much it will cost. Thanks in advance.
Petrovich34 01-11-2010 13:52
quote: really shaftol drives, in a week you will do your butt like a tortoise...
it's simple:
clean the notch with a solvent and a toothbrush (reflenka under the arm), then peel off the rest of P240, P320, P600, P1000, then remove the pile (wet it with a damp cloth, let it dry and go through P1500, and so on 7 times)
you choose the color of the shaftoll, you apply it with a brush and a layer on the stove (or to the battery) in the morning and evening (if possible, then at lunchtime)
according to the instructions, each layer tans in 8 ... 12 hours ...
a tube of shaftol is enough for a complete set (8 ... 12 layers, how to pour, or rather you will spill)
8 ... 10 layers penetrate 1.5 ... 2.5 mm deep into the tree and you will be happy ...
and later .... it was wiped off - I threw a layer on .... I scratched it, I greased it
awesome and maintainable ... while I sawed off my butt and finished the butt end, then I went through 2 layers and everything was exactly ....
In short, I recommend as I tried it myself
And in which stores to look for this shaftol?
I mean in the armory or not?
1st_Pilot 01-11-2010 14:24
In the armory, buy BALSIN SHAFTOL, it's proven!
Petrovich34 01-11-2010 15:23
ShAV 30-11-2010 08:39
After each hunt, they cleaned, oiled the iron and rubbed the wood with a clean cloth soaked in linseed oil. And in five years it will be like new.
SIBIRAK 01-01-2011 12:34
I processed mine with linen and wax and I don’t get dirty anymore. It does not shine and you can always polish with a cloth.
Bombardier 29-01-2011 17:11
Here, it seems that I remembered what I said, maybe it will be useful to someone. I myself, as soon as I wait for the plastic and “change clothes” for Murka, I will definitely treat the walnut with tung oil and carnauba wax.
[email protected] 21-02-2011 07:42
And does anyone work the fore-end from the inside with something so that the soot does not eat into it?
MenK 21-02-2011 11:09
If the tree is a walnut, then what color of SHAFTOL should I take? Transparent or still with a shade?
Let me explain: I have not cleaned the tree yet, and since the gun is the first, I don’t know exactly what color is native (whether factory processing darkens it). But I really like the current color.
SIBIRAK 21-02-2011 11:18
Clean up and decide which one you need. What kind of questions7
Forohelg 12-05-2011 21:37
mazai1982 03-07-2011 12:08
good evening. there is a specialist and not a simple one, I saw his work and my murka has been there all sorts of Benelli Berettas are resting if you are interested, I can tell you the number
igor gemranov 18-01-2014 18:59
quote: Originally posted by Forohelg:
I bought a new tree for 153, tell me where can I fit it? Or maybe there is a specialist. I did not dare to climb there with my own hands.
eyes are afraid and hands do. neatly and slowly. gaps - it’s better to leave a little more than it will burst later. There should be nothing to tighten. in places where it was torn, soak it with linen. (I need shavtol and other byaki, especially varnish. never. then wax. The wax dissolves in the solvent, the solvent then evaporates ..) and from the inside also on new ones. sunlight or a Chinese lamp will go for 200r).
------------------
Sincerely, Gemran.
passing by 08-12-2015 09:57
Guys, tell me. When processing the forearm, do you remove the plastic cups inside the forearm or not? If yes, how are they removed?
mnkuzn 10-12-2015 08:47
When processing the forearm, do you remove the plastic cups inside the forearm or not?
I did not remove it when impregnating with linseed oil.
passing by 13-12-2015 12:56
Thank you. I won't shoot either.
passing by 16-12-2015 17:24
quote: Originally posted by passing by:
Thank you. I won't shoot either.
Withdrew)))) There was no peace. Attached with glue. Gently tapping on the edges of the plastic loosened and pulled out. And he did the right thing. I cleaned it, there will be protection during processing, water can still get under the plastic. After processing, I will put it on the sealant - forever).
Nivelir4ik 26-07-2017 12:48
What did the ancient cabinetmakers use to finishing wood, when there were no synthetic varnishes and coatings? Along with waxing, they used shellac.
What is shellac? This natural product produced by tropical insects. It is mixed with alcohol and a composition is obtained that is indispensable for giving finished wooden products a beautiful and noble look.
If this composition is properly prepared and applied, the products will acquire a warm silky matte shade and completeness.
How to make shellac at home
I advise you not to buy a ready-made composition of shellac for alcohol, because it is unreasonably expensive, and its quality is not known. It is better to buy shellac in a dry form and induce a little composition for use in the right amount. You can buy it in stores that sell goods for artists or needlework, or order it online.
900 g of shellac is mixed with 240 ml of denatured alcohol. Shellac flakes are sold in either amber or light shades. In order for the product to be purchased warm shade, it is better to take amber ones, and if you want to save natural color wood, use light.
How to apply shellac
To apply varnish, you will need a piece of cotton or linen cloth, cotton or wool lining, mineral oil or kerosene.
Prepare the wood surface for varnishing. Apply several coats of shellac with a brush or sprayer. Then sand everything down to bare wood with 180 grit sandpaper. Remember that the skin clogs quickly, so change it in a timely manner. It is necessary to repeat the procedure until the pores filled with shellac are aligned with the surrounding surface of the tree.
Now make an applicator pad of linen or cotton fabric measuring 20 by 20 cm with a cotton lining inside. Pour the shellac into the lining and make a ball out of it. Moisten the bottom of the ball and let it soak in.
Apply varnish by moving the applicator from side to side along the grain of the wood. Apply layers so thin that they dry instantly. The applicator should move continuously without leaving marks. Squeeze the polish pad as it dries to the surface.
If during the varnishing process the applicator began to move harder and “drag”, soak your finger in kerosene or mineral oil and apply to the applicator pad.
Apply layers until you achieve the desired gloss. To see how the final will look top coat, wipe the product with a cloth moistened with kerosene.
For uniform application varnish, you can make strokes not back and forth, but as in the photo below, which will provide better continuity.
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doors, furniture, window frames In a word, every piece of wood needs a finishing touch. This must be done both to improve the appearance of the product, and, most importantly, in order to protect it from external factors. organic material. It is difficult to choose the method of such wood processing, even experienced carpenters sometimes experience difficulties. Although the tree is already beautiful in itself, it still needs to be trimmed. Thanks to modern technologies, you can preserve the natural look of wood, or you can simply change it beyond recognition. In both cases, the products will serve you for many years, but untreated wood quickly loses its qualities. Wood treatment compounds are divided into four groups: lacquer-oil mixtures, pure oils, water-based synthetic compounds and lacquers. More detailed information about varnishes you can find in the section "Paints and varnishes" on this site. These groups include almost all Decoration Materials, except for shellac and polish. Shellac is a waste product of insects that live in the tropics, and polish is an alcohol solution of shellac used to polish wood surfaces.
Some amateur carpenters are mistaken, believing that only by mechanization can one achieve quality finishes. Any liquid can be applied by hand. At correct application and processing can get very good results. It is enough to recall musical instruments made in ancient times, or antique furniture, and you will immediately remember which beautiful view they had. Gotta know one thing important rule: only careful processing makes wooden surface extraordinarily beautiful. Finishing good and very good are two different concepts. They are distinguished, first of all, by the time spent on finishing, and the patience of the master himself.
Many are interested in tools for finishing wood with lacquer and oil formulations. The set for polishing and varnishing is standard. It includes:
Cleaning wipes made of gauze impregnated to collect dust;
A set of skins (No. 320, 400, 500), which will be needed for grinding the coating and intermediate layers;
Limestone and pumice powder for surface treatment with oil. Thanks to pumice, the surface has a matte tint, and limestone gives shine;
Wax finishing paste. She attaches water repellency surfaces and serves to restore gloss;
Sticks to stir the varnish in jars so that there is no sediment;
Foam rubber rollers to apply finishing oils and evenly distribute them over the surface;
Brushes with artificial bristles for applying water-soluble varnishes;
Brushes with natural bristles for applying oil-based varnishes;
Foam rubber sponges for applying varnish and oil, except for shellac and varnish;
Seamless cotton swabs to apply varnish at the finishing stage of work;
Mandrels to squeeze rollers and brushes;
Synthetic and steel tangles (zeros) to smooth surfaces or make the gloss of the finish layer more muted.
Pure Finishing Oils
Walnut, linseed, tung and mineral oils are considered pure oils. They penetrate the wood well and do not create a hard film on the surface. With the help of oil, the surface cannot be protected from scratches, but nevertheless it becomes less sensitive. If you cover the tree with undiluted oil, its appearance becomes better: it shines, the structure becomes expressive. It must be remembered that furniture covered with pure oils retains dust. Surfaces exposed to oil fade over time, but if they are opened a second time, they will shine again. The advantage of natural oils lies in their environmental friendliness.
To finish decorative products, the master sometimes uses drying oil and linseed oil as the first layer. But linseed oil, compared to drying oil, dries for a very long time, for several weeks, so it is rarely used.
Oil finishes are very easy to apply. If the surface is flat, then oil is applied with a foam roller, and if it is embossed, then with a swab. After the oil is applied, it should be absorbed for about an hour, and then the excess is removed with a cotton rag. Oils, as a rule, are applied in several layers: from five or more. The next layer is applied only when the previous one has dried. Sometimes carpenters oil items such as cutting boards or countertops. But in this case, the oil is quickly washed out with water, and the coating has to be renewed quite often.
Mixtures of varnish and oils
The mixture of oil and varnish is called Danish oil. It is diluted with alcohol, driers are added to it to reduce the drying time. By adding a little varnish, you will greatly improve the quality of the finish. Adding a 3:1 polyurethane finishing mix to Danish oil improves the quality of the finish. Remember that the proportion must be strictly observed, it should not be increased, because the mixture will become thick, and it will be more difficult to apply it. For wooden products, an oil-lacquer mixture is suitable, except for those that are tested Negative influence. For example, they are suitable for coffee and coffee tables, and for kitchen worktops- No.
It will take at least 12 hours for each coat of oil/lacquer finish to dry. And it is even better to withstand after applying the layer for a day. At low temperatures or high humidity, the drying time will increase accordingly.
Currently, most varnishes are made on the basis of synthetic resins. They are highly durable, as well as polyurethane and acrylic. Yacht varnish is widely used, which contains a lot of oil, which gives elasticity to the varnish film, which is very important for wood that is subjected to moisture. The composition of the yacht varnish contains inhibitors that create an ultraviolet filter, protecting the tree from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. In order for the varnish to penetrate the wood better, it is diluted with mineral spirits. As a result, the varnish turns out to be liquid, so it is better to apply it with a swab. And the number of layers should be greater than when processing wood with undiluted varnishes.
Varnish, which would be well absorbed, you can prepare yourself. It is only necessary to add a little colored solvent to the polyurethane varnish, which has an oil base.
When we apply varnish, we must carefully monitor that the film is not very thick, because the excess cannot be removed.
For the first layer, you can use a thick varnish, and for the next layers - a more liquid one. Thanks to this, the varnish dries faster, and the layers will be uniform and thin.
Lacquer should be applied along the fibers, with a brush, in the direction from the middle of the board to its ends. In the event that a defect is found in the varnish layer (for example, a pile sticks), it is later cleaned with a fine-grained sandpaper. When the varnish dries, it is cleaned with an abrasive, and it acquires a matte finish. Re-applied varnish adds shine. When tinting wood with wood stain, it should not be cleaned before you apply 2-3 layers of varnish. Otherwise, you can wipe the tint along with the varnish.
Water based varnishes
These varnishes in liquid form look cloudy, sometimes they have the color of milk. But you should not be afraid of this, because after drying they will become transparent. Such varnishes are environmentally friendly and are worthy rivals to oil varnishes. In addition, hardened water-soluble varnishes have the most high ratio transparency. In its pure form, these varnishes are completely colorless. Therefore, if you want to keep the original color of the wood, without any changes, use only water-soluble varnishes. They do not change the color of the stain, or even the color of white enamel.
Water-soluble varnishes are applied to the surface with brushes with synthetic bristles (better if it is nylon). The temperature of the varnish should not exceed 230-300C. cold jar with varnish must first be heated in warm water. These varnishes are diluted only with distilled water and only by 10%.
If you have no experience finishing wood, practice first on a piece of board. At the same time, it is desirable that the product that you are going to finish and the board are from the same wood. Be patient, and experience will come, and then skill.
Finishing products from natural wood
After the end of the production of natural wood products, one of the most milestones- surface finish. There are a large number of ways and methods of finishing: coating with stains, transparent and opaque varnishes, firing with an open flame, coating ordinary paints, waxing, oil coating, etc. In some cases, a combination of several methods is used with additional processing against pests and decay, wood is bleached with chemical solutions, making it “younger” and vice versa, artificial aging is carried out. It is simply unrealistic to study all the methods at once, and such knowledge is not needed for ordinary masters. It is better to “get in the know” gradually, as needed and as skills improve. In the article, we will consider only the most commonly used finishing options, their brief characteristics and methods of application.
Any finishing option assumes that the surface of the wood will be pre-sanded; for final sanding, you need to use sandpaper No. 100 or more. Try to sand along the fibers, and the last "touches" should be done across the fibers. There is another method of high-quality removal of the smallest pile - wipe the sanded surface with a well-moistened cloth or washcloth and leave to dry. During drying, the entire pile will rise and lock into a standing position. Gently sand it again with fine sandpaper. After sanding, carefully clean the surfaces from dust and you can proceed to various finish coats.
Wood varnish finish
You can use at home polyurethane varnishes or oil-based varnishes - working with them is easy and safe, and the final quality is quite satisfactory. Varnishes are transparent and opaque, matte and glossy. It can be applied with an ordinary brush or with a pneumatic spray gun. If you are manufacturing wooden crafts quite often, we advise you to purchase an airbrush, and use a brush only for varnishing small surfaces. What are the advantages of the spray gun?
- High labor productivity.
- Improved coverage. The fact is that the varnish particles hit the wooden surface at high speed, due to this, the adhesion of the composition to the wood increases, and the formation of “unreliable” areas is excluded.
- Modern pneumatic spray guns have the possibility of numerous adjustments of the strength, volume and shape of the jet. This makes it possible to achieve significant savings in varnish while improving the quality of the coating.
Lacquering should be done in at least two layers, after the first layer has dried, it is very desirable to sand it with fine sandpaper. The second layer may have an increased thickness compared to the first.
wood bleaching
The purpose of bleaching is to make the outer surface of the wood white, White color has always symbolized the purity of intentions and the importance of the furniture owner. Bleaching should be done before coating the wood with clear varnishes. Currently, 20% hydrogen peroxide is used for whitening at home, a more professional solution is hydrogen peroxide + ammonia water + liquid glass. This compound can be used to treat wood only after it has been moistened with a solution of caustic soda. After soaking, the wood should be washed under running water and dried.
Some masters use "false bleaching" - simple and quite effective method giving the wood a noble look. For this, a special composition is used: a little white paint based on an identical solvent is added to the transparent varnish. As an example, we can give the following composition: one liter of varnish NTs-218, a liter of solvent 646 and 0.1 liters of white paint NTs. Mix all components thoroughly and apply in two layers on the prepared surface of the product.
Finishing with natural oil (glazing and glazing)
One of the oldest methods of wood finishing, combines several useful features- the tree not only becomes more beautiful, but also its resistance to impact increases high humidity. Flax oil is most often used, but it can be completely replaced with ordinary unrefined sunflower oil. The oil must be heated to t°+50÷60°С and mixed with turpentine in equal proportions when heated. The surface of the wood is covered with this solution several times, the first time apply the maximum amount of the solution to increase the depth of absorption. Some masters add to the solution oil paint(this paint is used by professional artists). The choice of paint color and tone saturation must be determined empirically, and this requires a lot of experience. We do not advise beginners to “play around” with paints, make a transparent solution and treat wooden surfaces with it.
Surface waxing
It is also a very ancient method of wood processing, but is sometimes used today. Our grandmothers still remember how parquet floors were waxed, however, it was no longer natural beeswax, and colored paraffin. Natural wax mastics are now sold in specialized stores. If you do not have the opportunity to buy it, then you can do it yourself. Natural wax is sold in stores for beekeepers, it must be heated to t ° + 50 ÷ 60 ° C and placed in a 1: 1 ratio with turpentine. The solution should be applied warm to the surface, do not make the wax layer too thick. After complete drying, the surface of the product must be polished with a soft cloth or felt. If necessary, the operation can be repeated, but, as a rule, a single treatment is sufficient.
Open fire treatment
Wood surfaces are charred by open fire, depending on the degree of charring, the wood changes its color from yellow to dark brown and black. As a result of heat treatment, the appearance of the surface improves, the structure of the tree is better visible. After firing, the surface can be coated with transparent varnishes in the usual way.
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