It is no secret that wooden surfaces treated with varnish or paint have a significant minus - they become cold and lifeless. If you intend to preserve the beauty of texture, warmth and energy, we recommend that you pay attention to such a wood processing material as drying oil.
Compositions for wood - drying oil is different
Drying oils can act as an independent protective and decorative coating wood, or as a primer before painting or filling, as a component for the preparation of paint compositions.
The existing compositions can be divided into the following groups:
Wood processing with natural drying oil - application features
Most often, linen, hemp and sunflower drying oils are found on the market. Natural linen drying oil has a light transparent color. It is used for priming wooden, plastered and metal surfaces, as well as in the process of preparing putties for wood, pastes and for diluting light paints. The use of natural compounds is allowed indoors. How long does natural drying oil dry on a tree? At a temperature of at least 20 ° C - about 24 hours.
Hemp drying oil has a pronounced dark color. The scope of the composition is the same as that of flaxseed. That's just this liquid is used to dilute dark thick paints. Compared with the previous representatives of the group, sunflower impregnation dries out more slowly - after a day, undried liquid will still be felt on the surface. Its feature is high elasticity, however, in terms of hardness, strength and water resistance, it loses to hemp and linseed oil.
Natural compounds are great for treating wooden surfaces various tools. Hunters love to soak their rifle stocks with them - after that the product is very soft and warm in the hand, it is pleasant to touch it with the cheek. However, for impregnation floor coverings this group is not suitable, since the film created by natural compounds does not have high strength.
Semi-natural, combined, synthetic - areas of application of drying oils
Semi-natural drying oils are mostly light brown in color. The resulting film on a wooden surface is distinguished by its hardness and good gloss, as well as sufficiently high water resistance. Basically, semi-natural formulations are used in combination with other paintwork materials or as soil. Like natural drying oils, semi-natural ones do not have sufficient strength to process floor coverings.
Manufacturers add modifiers to combined compositions that improve their qualities necessary for the production and dilution of thick paints. Also combined drying oils used for priming wooden surfaces before plastering or painting.
Do not forget that the liquid dries for at least a day - it is not recommended to apply a layer of paint or plaster until completely dry.
Synthetic compounds are used not so much for impregnation, but as a basis for diluting dark oil paints for painting works outside, as well as for priming metal, concrete and plastered surfaces. Synthetic drying oil is also used for the preparation of various putties and pastes.
What is olifing - we impregnate a tree
It should be noted that drying oil is in demand among lovers natural materials which are absolutely safe for human health. However, in terms of other parameters (strength, penetration depth, durability), compositions based on natural oils have long been losing to impregnations based on alkyd resins with fungicides and other modifiers.
Natural impregnation is most often used in the care of wooden products, which periodically, one way or another, need to be cleaned and polished. For example, it can be carpentry tools. Also drying oils from natural oils show themselves well in internal works ah - the treated wooden surfaces look very good, continue to breathe and flavor the air. But for outdoor work it is better to use more modern, resistant to temperature extremes, moisture and pests substances.
When working with wood and many others porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer, or for other reasons. But those of you who have come across this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until this very drying is not complete.
Overheated and oxidized in a special way vegetable oil acts as the basis for the olive. At the same time, various desiccants, solvents and other components characteristic of paint and varnish products.
The main task of drying oil is to form on the surface of wood protective layer to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, fungus, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to lie more evenly and efficiently, as well as reducing the consumption of this very paint.
Do not forget that the wood covered with linseed oil is very beautiful, so this paintwork also used for decorative purposes.
Drying oil types
The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:
- natural;
- Semi-natural;
- Synthetic;
- Combined.
Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic counterparts, is not flammable, since it contains almost no solvents. At the same time, its drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries in linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point
Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.
Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil, followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all the others, it is not used for processing household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. The scope of its application includes the primer of concrete, metal, dilution of paint and varnish products, the preparation of plaster and mastic. Drying time usually over 24 hours
The combined drying oil dries for about a day. Obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in the manufacture of paint.
How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard
Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries in the process of oxidation, that is, by binding to oxygen.
Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In fact, you almost always have to wait, and there are not many ways to speed up the process. One of them is the use of a heat gun. The thing is that the process of drying drying oil is accelerated at elevated temperatures and low humidity. And the fan heater just does the job very well. By the way, it was previously practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.
Another way is to use a desiccant. Red lead is ideal. Read the instructions carefully before use.
How to know that drying oil is completely dry, and what to do if it does not dry
The main sign that given material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases, the drying of drying oil does not occur even in 10 days. Most likely due to marriage. It is not worth waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply absorbed into the wood, a planer may be required.
Now many people want to protect themselves from unnecessary chemistry. This also applies to wood products. Drying oil in this regard is a unique material! The origin of the name "natural drying oil" speaks for itself. Up to 95% of the composition may contain natural components of flax seeds, hemp, rapeseed, which is a very high indicator in the production of paints and varnishes.
The remaining 5% are synthetic compounds, but they specific gravity so small that negative impact practically does not occur on the human body. The lower the percentage of synthetic chemistry in drying oil, the longer the wooden thing will last you.
When choosing, pay attention to the composition and choose a product with a maximum percentage natural ingredients, this is a guarantee of strengthening the properties of drying oil in the protection of wood.
Main purpose
Given the characteristics of the material, it should be noted why drying oil is needed:
- basis for painting external structures;
- impregnation internal structures(wall and ceiling cladding, flooring).
After processing, it is necessary to give time to the coating so that it saturates the inner layers of the wood fabric. Drying time may vary, but you need to wait until complete drying. Further wood flooring at the request of the user, it is left in this form, or any Oil paint.
The interaction of drying oil and oil paint will only strengthen the protective layer of wood. And also, the more drying oil is used, the less paint consumption, isn't it a plus?
You should not sit on the fence floors if you just painted it, in the hope that the impregnation is entirely natural products, and it will be absorbed in 5 seconds. Wood processing indoors is as important as outdoors. Temperature changes, air humidity - all this does not affect the tree in the best way.
You can process with drying oil the lining and floors. However, do not forget that the composition must be absorbed until completely dry, therefore it is strictly forbidden to enter the treated premises.
Remember that the main difference between internal processing and external processing is the lack of fresh air. If the sun and wind act as a natural “dryer” for outdoor premises, then for internal processing it will be required maximum feed fresh air. This is necessary so that in the shortest possible time the surface in the room dries well, and unpleasant odors, which even natural remedies, weathered.
In addition to wood, drying oil and oxol are great for painting and preparing metals (at the priming stage). And drying oil can be added to plaster - a kind of universal helper for the builder.
The choice of drying oil
How to choose drying oil correctly? You can not be guided only by the rule that the higher the level of naturalness, the better. There are the following types of drying oil:
- Natural - the higher the percentage of natural substances in the composition, the higher the cost of the material and its quality. If a product with a 45% vegetable oil composition can be used for exterior painting, then drying oil with an oil content of 70% or more can be used for interior work. In any case, the impregnated surface will be protected.
- Combined- as close as possible to the source material. In its composition, as a rule, a natural base and white spirit (solvent) are mixed, which occupies 1/3 of the drying oil structure. Such a complex is used for external use - the effect of the solvent on the body is practically not noticeable, and drying is faster.
- Drying oil "Oksol" - the middle class of the product. The impregnation is made from 55% natural oils and is used both indoors and outdoors. Oksol is an excellent assistant in drying small parts.
- Composite - the most cheap option impregnation. Almost 100% consists of synthetic substances, has a sharp pronounced smell. It is strictly forbidden to use drying oil for the floor and other wooden surfaces in residential premises, no matter how ventilated they may be.
Having oil in its composition, drying oil will be an excellent base for paint. And we are talking not about applying a layer of paint on a dried layer of drying oil. Oil-based paint - combines the properties of both substances and does not require varnish.
MA-25 - this is the name of the paint for the treatment of external surfaces, which is made from combined drying oil.
On the video: how to cook natural drying oil yourself.
Application method
In order to properly treat a wooden surface, you do not need to complete painter courses, but you still need to follow the basic principles of working with painting:
- Before using drying oil or oxol, the wooden surface is cleaned of dust, grease and dried thoroughly. Application to wet material is extremely inefficient.
- Too thick a solution, if desired, can be diluted with a solvent or nefras. Paints are used only after thorough mixing. No matter how fresh the jar is, stirring gives the drying oil structure oxygenation and reabsorption of the released oils.
- To cover the tree with drying oil, either a roller or brushes are used. Small details are painted with small brushes.
- Drying oil for wood and oxol with a maximum natural composition dry in about 24 hours. Since you need to use several layers for greater effect, it is important to understand that it will take several days to carefully work out the detail. Synthetic drying oil dries out in much less time.
When working with drying oil, it is important to protect the surface of the hands from material ingress. If you still get dirty, carefully remove the top layer from the skin, while moistening it with vegetable oil. If the solution remains on the skin, you can remove the residue with a solvent, then wash your hands thoroughly with warm soapy water.
Conventional impregnation in its composition contains mainly chemical components. Drying oil also consists of natural ingredients. Why waste energy, money and time on synthetics when you can secure own health and wooden surfaces with natural materials?
When choosing a product, pay attention to the manufacturer. Today on the market you can find by-products that are produced under the name "linseed oil", but their composition is not much like it. Therefore, trust the work only quality materials and well-known manufacturers, and your wooden crafts will serve for many years.
If someone varnishes an icon without first impregnating it with drying oil - well, this is already quite strange, there’s nothing to talk about, in my opinion. As far as I know, egg tempera requires obligatory impregnation with drying oil, otherwise, over time, the pigments turn white, lose color and the paint layer quickly collapses.
Drying oil recipe: liquid desiccant (cobalt or lead) is added to slightly warmed fresh linseed oil in a ratio of 1 to 10 (by volume). Drying time approximately 4 hours.
Flaxseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus nuances) - it is oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linseed oil, regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without desiccants, begins to dry out from the upper surface layer, polymerized linseed oil is prepared by high blood pressure, and it begins to dry out simultaneously in the entire layer, but is more prone to yellowing and darkening later. That's all the fundamental difference, so that raw or boiled drying oil is essentially the same thing, so if, in addition to the desiccant, you add some scraps to it during cooking (I would like to know which ones and how much), you get a good oil varnish.
With regard to the drying time, this is largely determined by the base - board and gesso, for example, I have lime dry boards, many years of aging, the drying oil is pulled like a sponge, I have at least 12 hours, and even then after that the drying oil can dry out, so I have to dooliferate.
It's better for our business oxidized oil, because it is very important that both the paint layer and the gesso and the board are soaked as thoroughly as possible with drying oil, since it is linseed oil, penetrating deeply into the tempera, that holds and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in a damp and cold room, the drying oil itself begins to mold and darkens very quickly.
Since oil varnishes darken in dark, damp rooms, and alcohol varnishes become cloudy, as alternative you can use "liquid wax" the world-famous Italian company OIKOS, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. "Liquid wax" is used to cover the plaster type isk. stone, adheres well to walls subject to condensation, water-resistant, appearance similar to milk, after drying it is absolutely transparent.
The appearance of stains after drying due to the uneven content of the binder in the paint layer, and therefore the gesso shines through where there is little of this binder, it looks especially bad on faces. To reduce this undesirable effect, one should try to write tempera with the same texture as possible. On a personal letter, greasy yolk stains are unacceptable - they must be washed out and removed immediately. If, after applying a layer of melt and drying to the light, matte bald spots appear on the surface, then you need to add a binder and water to the tempera. Approaching the end of the smelting, it is necessary to evaluate the filling of the tempera with a binder in the light, and if it is lacking, it is necessary to dilute the binder with water and carefully “drink” the paint layer with it in one or several steps, depending on the circumstances.
If you write with a dense layer of paint, the risk of stains during drying is minimal. If the task is to write something thin layer taking into account the clearance of gesso, it is better to make a tempera with an acceptable lack of a binder and, after completing all the work on the site, additionally water the paint layer with a binder.
Well, for those who don't know yet... there is such a control test for the degree of sufficiency of the binder in the paint layer: on the dried surface, the tempera is carried out with a wet brush, if the trace is darker than the coller, then there is little binder, it is necessary to add, if, on the contrary, the trace is lighter, then everything is fine, nothing needs to be added.
Everyone sooner or later faces the need for repair. Today in the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update the interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint the interior wood surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.
A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive.
Many are not serious about the decision this issue, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and get to work without pre-training surface, which becomes the main mistake.
If we are talking about a clumsy process with a roller, the result of which is visible on each fence, then the direction is chosen correctly. But at the heart of any well-made finishing operations is attention to detail, which should be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, you can waste not only time, effort and money, but also completely spoil expendable materials and the wooden object itself.
Therefore, it is important to consider the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface has already been covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition causes difficulties more than others, therefore, first of all, you need to figure out: with what and how to paint drying oil previously applied to the surface of a wooden material?
To answer this question, one should get a little closer acquainted with such building archaism as drying oil, and understand why its use today causes such heated debate, both in the professional community and in amateur circles?
Drying oil is a film-forming liquid consisting of precipitation vegetable oil(linen, hemp, sunflower, mulberry, etc.), which is processed in a special way (by overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and desiccants in the composition make it related to oil paints, varnishes, primers and putties. In other words, drying oil as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricant or coloring raw material.
Drying oil is both a coloring and impregnating agent
AT Soviet years oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only accessible means surface painting. It was applied literally to everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the dilapidated wallpaper layer by layer, old tiles in the bathroom or worn-out linoleum, it is highly likely that you will stumble upon a pro-oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could do without it.
With the appearance on the shelves construction stores new paint and varnish mixtures, drying oil began to be used only for putty purposes, in order to give integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to the viscous composition, drying oil has good filling capacity, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of its application is the painting of metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office premises (toilet, locker room, industrial kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, it is primed concrete surfaces and renew wood in outdoor works.
With all its advantages, drying oil has a number of significant drawbacks, which are well known to those who have ever tried without pre-treatment put another paint on it. Among the obvious disadvantages should be noted:
- low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other means of coloring, therefore even the most expensive paint after a short time"fall off";
- a strong smell, which neither in the process nor after it never completely disappears and a stuffy, unpleasant atmosphere is created indoors;
- slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (natural is the fastest, and synthetic is longer);
- fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
- inconvenience of use, since it is necessary to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), warming up the mixture in advance;
- fragility.
It is not recommended to paint with cheap drying oil, it has a number of negative qualities
It must be said that all of the above negative points for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. good coverage only partially possesses them.
It would seem that it is simply impossible to repaint the surface soaked with drying oil. But the situation is not as dire as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right tools and paint.
When working with oiled material, the choice of the correct paint is of paramount importance. Anyone who tried to put paint on drying oil invariably noticed: a freshly applied coating “bubbles” as it dries, and opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic smell of drying oil.
However, there are several types of dyes and finishing materials, which I can cope with a difficult drying oil. These include:
- Oil paint;
- alkyd paint;
- acrylate oil paint;
- water-dispersion paint;
- pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
- nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
- oil-based liquid wallpaper;
- self-adhesive paper or film.
Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays down perfectly on top of it
Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surfaces. In no case should you try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our tricky oil-based impregnation will simply “repel” a layer of paint.
To standard set tools, a few more new devices are bought:
- roller or brush;
- airbrush, or spray gun;
- paint mixing tray;
- a bucket of soapy water;
- clean rags;
- hard-bristled brush or sandpaper;
- metal spatula;
- tape machine or manual cycle;
- disinfectant composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
- putty on wood or plaster on concrete;
- primer;
- gloves and respirator.
For pasting with self-adhesive film you need:
- stationery knife;
- powder or talc;
- water with cleaning solution;
- dry rag;
- pin or needle.
Self-adhesive film looks good, easily glued on surfaces pre-treated with drying oil
Everything you need is at hand. Nothing stops you from getting started.
The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has already been mentioned more than once. Lower preparatory stages can only be a short-sighted amateur who does not feel sorry for his wasted efforts and funds for materials. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.
So, here is the sequence in which you need to carry out the processing work:
- Clean surfaces from mechanical impurities: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, greasy spots, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done with a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let dry.
- Sand or, if possible, shave off the top layer (the latter is for wood only), using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper or, even better, a scraper draw frame. Wash with water. Let dry.
- Repair all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sanded fine sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
- Prime. Let dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait for complete drying.
- Apply a disinfectant composition, no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let dry.
These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout the entire service life.
Now that the negative properties of drying oil have been minimized as much as possible, it's time to start the procedure for painting or pasting the surface.
Painting work is carried out in several stages at a temperature of -30 to +40 degrees and a relative humidity of no higher than 80%:
- To begin with, a stripe layer is painted with a brush hard-to-reach places, welds, end edges.
- The coloring solution is applied in one layer by means of vertical movements, directed from left to right or from the wall farthest from the door with a roller, brush or spray gun (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also allowed to dip the object into the paint mass. Waiting for complete drying time.
- Metal surfaces are painted over in 2-3 layers and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wood - 1-2.
- Rinse dry surface hot water(without adding soda or detergent) to avoid divorce. Re-wipe before use.
- You can get rid of the persistent smell of some types of paints (say, oil paints) by placing 2-3 cans of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the stained area or in the room.
It is very important to wait for the complete drying of each previous coat of paint before applying the next one. The final drying time of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least a day.
Check if the surface is dry or not traditional method- put your finger on the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait for a longer period.
Transforming a polished surface is not an easy task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection necessary tools and finishing materials in just a few days, you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look, which will please its diligent owner for a long time to come.