One of the most popular services in the construction market today is the assembly of a log house. This technology is used to build not only private houses, but also baths, as well as utility buildings. They turn out to be warm and attractive in appearance.
If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some people prefer to leave the walls intact. So they look very nice and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from a profiled bar with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.
Main steps
When assembling a house, you must remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of assembling links of natural moisture. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if natural moisture material is used. The dried log house shrinks by about 9 cm.
The assembly is divided into several stages. At the first, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is erected. The main stage is the assembly of the log house. The final work is the manipulation of the roof. After shrinkage, external and internal work is carried out.
The most important first crown
The technology of assembling a house from a profiled bar provides for paying special attention to the first crown. It represents one of the vulnerabilities. This node will form the outline of the house. It is closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which pulls into the water from the ground.
The first crown is shielded, these works provide for its separation from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. Roofing material is usually used as it, laid on a layer of bituminous mastic. A lining 100 mm bar is located on top, this is precisely its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled bar. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and the wall material.
The underlayment must be made of larch, which is highly resistant to decay. In this case, the material must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from a profiled beam is delivered to the building area, you can start work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can start assembling the lower crown, which is a bar with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be covered with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is placed on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.
The floor beams must be cut into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown decays, there will be fewer problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are best made from larch.
The need for processing timber
Work on the assembly of houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the treatment of the material with antiseptics. In this case, you should take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only accessible sections of the walls.
Until the profiled timber is laid, the remaining surfaces must be protected. This must be done before assembling at home. Senezh and Tikurilla can act as antiseptic compounds.
Carrying out insulation
After studying the instructions for assembling a house from a profiled bar, you will learn that compaction is a mandatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in the corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of a Finnish-type profile involve laying a jute tape along the bar, in its central part. The main function of the jute sealant is to reduce wall blow-through. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.
Using pins as a connection
Self-assembly of a house from a profiled bar is accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. Products have an oblong shape and have a round or square cross section. It can be based on:
- plastic;
- metal;
- wood.
If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden pins are better than others. Such fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that during drying, the material does not deform, and cracks do not form between the crowns. The dowel will work in bending and will not allow the beam to bend.
If you decide to use pins as fasteners, then you can use some tips that will simplify the work. Between each other, no more than two bars should be connected. Nagels are staggered. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.
The pins should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. The holes for the installation of fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 bars. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. The dowel is hammered in with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from a profiled bar, you must choose pins, the length of which will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.
Assembly nuances: instructions for carrying out work
By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling a house, you can independently carry out its installation. In this case, each link will be in its place, glass slots are made in the products. It is necessary to carry out work according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation it is necessary to follow the diagram.
In the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each part. When laying with the profile, each edge must match. If the grooves and pins are not very complex, then a sealing material is laid between the links. This increases the thermal insulation performance of the walls.
When assembling a house from a profiled bar, it is important to ensure a tight abutment of the links to each other. If this rule is not followed, then the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The bars will have cuts-bowls that connect the links to each other in an even masonry. If the cups are not available, you can cut them out with the mobile cup cutter.
Completion of construction
After shrinkage, you can proceed with the rough and fine finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, entrance doors and windows are installed. The sub-floor is being installed. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then they do not need additional insulation and cladding. They will keep you warm perfectly.
Whereas a protective impregnation must be applied without fail. This will keep the wood in excellent condition for many years. If you wish, you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With the help of such a mixture, you can emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a rich shade.
Features of insulation
After assembling a house from a profiled bar, you can also carry out insulation. This process usually involves:
- tow;
- glass wool slabs;
- mineral wool;
- flax-jute linen.
Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect heat back into the room. Steam insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture that steals heat.
It is better not to use expanded polystyrene as thermal insulation, since it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which ultimately will cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth insulating the walls with roofing material, as well as glassine, and also with plastic wrap. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable material.
Finally
Assembling a house from a profiled log can be quite a simple task if you order a ready-made kit. All elements of the system are numbered in it. You will have to carry out the installation of the walls, guided by the principle of the Lego constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, drywall, hardboard or lining is usually used.
When arranging a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated board or ondulin. Metal tiles are great. Warming in this case starts from the attic floor. Then the craftsmen move on to the roof.
Profiled timber houses are comfortable and reliable. They have proven their worth many years ago. Much time has passed, and the advantages of wooden houses are only increasing. Nowadays, such houses are built quite quickly, because they are assembled like a children's designer. This is also facilitated by the availability of special mountings and the availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled log yourself.
- Installing the base and floor
- Insulation and decoration of the house
Features of the profiled bar
Profiled timber is a building material that is obtained from coniferous trees, for example, pine, cedar, spruce, larch. If you take a closer look at the material, you will notice that the inside is flat and planed, and the outside has a semi-oval shape, or it can also be flat. On the sides there is a special groove and spike, which allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber to each other. The main advantage of the profiled bar is environmental friendliness, since it is made without the use of glue.
Also, the material is very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments win over many people. As mentioned above, the profiled beam is quite easy and quick to assemble, which is good news for DIY construction enthusiasts. But do not forget that a profiled beam is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. can develop there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.
Profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through cracks. Also remember that all wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and do not delay its repair. If your house is periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.
Start of construction of a house from a bar
It is very important to draw up a project of a house from a profiled bar. When you draw up a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, since this will play a very important role in the procurement of material. You can draw a project of the future house yourself, or you can contact a construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that the best time to build is winter.
If you plan to harvest wood yourself, it is better to do this in the cold season and dry it for a long time at home. In this case, the timber will shrink evenly and calmly. But do not go to extremes - in severe frosts it is better to refuse such work, since the tree can become very fragile.
When harvesting the material yourself, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to trim the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase ready-made material that will be cut to fit your needs. Also, grooves will be cut out there, and you just have to lay out the house from a profiled bar with your own hands, like a designer.
Building a foundation for a house
Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you should find out the indicator of groundwater, the composition of the soil, look at the construction of the foundation of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, bricks or cinder blocks. The process of constructing such foundations is quite simple, but it is characterized by high material consumption and laboriousness.
For wooden buildings from a bar, a columnar, pile or shallow strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallow strip foundation. It all starts with the markup. It is very important to be accurate in this process. Mark the outer and inner corners of the building with pegs. After that, you need to combine them with a cord to give bulk. This way you will understand how the foundation should look like.
After that, you can start digging a hole, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But making too small a depth is also not worth it, because we are building a house from a profiled bar and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with our rash actions. Two shovel bayonets will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial marking by more than 20 centimeters. After that, you need to put a crushed stone pillow. As part of this procedure, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of rubble of the same thickness.
You can make the formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formwork is made of wood that is free from cracks and seams. When ordering, it is better to choose steel or plastic formwork. You must install the formwork in the trench and center it. To increase strength, it makes sense to use reinforcement - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement must be at least 1 centimeter.
It is advisable to use a frame and at least 2 belts of reinforcement. When welding, they should not be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The rods should fit freely into the trench, but not closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and proceed with the concrete pouring. If you are using wood formwork, moisten it a little to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the mortar. The formwork is removed immediately after the mortar has dried.
For insulation, you can use extruded polystyrene foam plates of 5 centimeters, and at the corners of the foundation - 8. When the sides of the foundation of the house made of profiled timber are tarred, crushed stone is poured into the place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be insulated using roofing felt. Then it is imperative to perform backfilling, for which previously removed soil can be used.
Installing the base and floor
The construction of any house begins with the creation of a row, which is laid on a treated and leveled waterproofing foundation. It is worth noting that for the outer walls it is necessary to use a bar with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for the floor and inner walls - 100 by 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be treated with an antiseptic for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the floor joists, which should preferably be laid on the edge.
Logs can be installed on the foundation of the house and attached to the walls of the log house, as shown in the video about houses made of profiled timber. They must be placed in a room and left there for several days to get used to the temperature. Two logs should be placed on opposite walls and stretch nylon threads between them, every one and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guide by which the rest of the lags can be made. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, foam, isolon, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.
If you will be laying logs from boards 30-40 centimeters thick, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for boards that are too thick - about 1 meter. Using wedges made of thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the log. You can strengthen the wedges using self-tapping screws or long nails. The lags are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can move on to installing and strengthening the boards.
One and a half centimeters should be retreated from the wall and the first row of boards should be strengthened along a stretched line. For self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled. It is necessary to lay a board on each lag and strengthen it. If gaps remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with baseboards or staples, which should be connected to the board and fastened with nails. The sub-floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. Planks with a section of 25 by 150 millimeters are suitable for him.
The floor can be laid with mixing or without displacement, judging by the photos of houses made of profiled timber. First you have to lay the first layer and lay the wood flooring on it. Remember the waterproofing, which lays down on the rough base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. At the last stage, the floor should be covered with any material. For this, a tongue-and-groove board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.
Erection of walls from profiled timber
To build the walls of a log house, it is necessary to lay out alternating rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together with pins (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the bar to move or twist. The pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house is built. It is known that metal pins are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden ones, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber in this case will increase.
How are pins installed? This happens according to the masonry method, through two or three rows through one. To do this, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 3 to 4 centimeters. The pins will easily be inserted into these holes. The distance between the pins should be one and a half meters. Do not forget to place a sealant for insulation between the rows of the timber. Where external walls join, it is advisable to apply the warm corner method.
In one beam, a protrusion of the required size should be cut, and in the other, a groove with similar parameters should be cut out. Some layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. This will greatly strengthen the structure, and the corners will not be blown. If you are building a house with one and a half floors, the walls of the second one must be raised by about 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions must fit into the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use a bar with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. Installation of partitions is done only after the creation of a log house.
If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition on the ground floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled logs, the internal walls can be made of frame. To do this, you need to create a frame of bars with a cross section of 50 to 50, sheathe it with clapboard or other material. In order for a wooden house to be fire resistant, all its parts must be treated with a fire retardant. You can apply it to walls with a spray gun or paint brush.
And the last point to understand when building walls: pay due attention to the creation of window openings. In the places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut out technological openings through which air will move during the drying of the material. When the house finally settles down, you can carry out the installation of windows. Window blocks for a building made of profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wood.
Insulation and decoration of the house
If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce the cost of heating it. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating bills, regardless of fuel. Exterior decoration of the house significantly increases thermal insulation by reducing the moisture content of the timber. It insulates it from various atmospheric precipitations. The most popular types of finishes are clapboard and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.
You can use rock wool, glass wool slabs, tow or linen cloth. Glass wool slabs must be laid with foil-clad vapor barrier material. This approach will help reflect heat back into the room, and steam insulation will reduce moisture evaporation, which is known to steal heat.
It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses made of profiled timber, it is better not to use expanded polystyrene, since it will not allow the moisture of the tree to evaporate completely and will cause rotting of the wood. For the same reasons, you should not insulate the walls with roofing material, plastic wrap or glassine. Better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.
Inside, it is also advisable to trim the profiled timber, as this will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be made of lining, hardboard or drywall. Remember the insulation should be like a puff pastry. Each layer must be a protection against heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you plan to spend time in the house only in the summer, you do not need to insulate it.
Roof for a house made of profiled timber
To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated board, roofing material, metal tiles. Remember that insulation should start from the last or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and battens. When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be placed, which should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. Lags are made of a bar with a section of 150 to 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on the edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.
After that, you should assemble the rafter system from boards with a section of 50 to 150 millimeters. This structure is the skeleton of the roof, so it must be strongly reinforced with uprights, crossbars and braces. The rafters should be mounted in increments of no more than one centimeter. When the frame is ready, you can start laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or a bar with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a crate with a section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed onto the rafters.
It is worth noting that the pitch of the lathing should not be more than 400 millimeters. In order to prevent the accumulation of condensate, it is necessary to make vapor insulation with a waterproofing layer. If you used slate as a roof covering, and the attic is blown out, you can refuse waterproofing during the construction of a house from a profiled beam.
When choosing a coating material, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's advice, since they can differ significantly for different types of coatings. It is very important to adhere to the specified mounting techniques during installation. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof may be compromised. If you strictly adhere to the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.
Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. You do not need to have special skills for this, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily cope with this work. Assembling the house will turn out like a constructor with which you played as a child. For this, special fasteners are provided along the edges of the material. You will also need a solid foundation and a reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from profiled logs!
The construction of walls from a bar begins without preliminary assembly, the assembly begins immediately at the construction site of a house or a bath, in contrast to the construction of walls from logs. For construction from a bar, two main methods of corner joints are used - "into the corner" and "with the remainder". Mezhventsovy connections are made using wooden dowels in the form of a circle with a diameter of three centimeters.
The choice of technology, in this case, involves the choice of a method for assembling walls, we will consider three main methods. Before, for those who do not yet know, it is worth noting that timber is a ready-made building material that is made from logs, usually softwood, and is sawn from four sides in the factory. When choosing a bar, they try to get dry and even bars. The width of the timber at a temperature of -40 ° C should be at least 18 centimeters, and at -30 ° C, not less than 15 centimeters. The timber assembly technology is simpler than the construction of walls from logs. They are less labor-intensive and available for self-erection, because there is no need for carpentry skills. Having little work skills, a private developer can easily assemble a house from a bar with his own hands.
Of course, like the construction of any other house, the construction of a block house begins with the preparation of the foundation, after which the first crown is installed on it, the corner connection of which is made "in half a tree", regardless of the method of corner joints you have chosen. After that, they either continue to erect "in half a tree", or assemble them "in a bandage with a root thorn" or mate the bars with the help of dowels. The same technology for erecting chopped walls - between each layer of timber, an insulation made of moss, tow, hemp or felt is laid. Bar walls, in comparison with log walls, have one drawback: in contrast to the round groove in a log frame, in the beams the horizontal seam is filled with moisture when exposed to precipitation. If it is not supposed to sheathe the walls erected from a bar with finishing materials, then chamfers of about 20x20 millimeters are made on the upper edge of each bar to improve water drainage.
Assembly technology
The half-tree connection is a method that gets its name from the removal of the beams of the lower and upper half of its array at the corner joints.
Such an assembly begins with making holes in the corners of the beams to install the dowel so that each dowel can connect several beams at once. After the first crown, which is connected by pins in the corners, is laid, a seal is placed on it, after which the next crown is placed. As soon as the connection of the corners of the second crown is completed, the crowns begin to pull together. A dowel is driven into the second crown, which should fit into the first crown by half its length. If the tool used allows you to make holes for three thicknesses of the crown, then the dowel rallies three crowns to the rhinestone. If you do not take special measures, then such a beam assembly technology gives a very strong airflow in the corner joints of the structure. In order to reduce the blowing capacity of corner joints, grooves are made and dense wood inserts are fixed. If you leave the edges of the beams when assembling the walls "in half a tree", then you can get an assembly "with the remainder", which is much less often used.
The assembly of the walls by bandaging the beams with a root spike begins with making holes in the corner joints of the first crown under the dowel, which is connected “in half a tree”. As soon as the first crown is laid, the way of fixing the angles changes. In order to connect the corners by tying them with a root spike, the end of one bar is processed in the same way as in the figure, and a special groove is made at the end of the second bar. The technology of joining the crowns is no different from the "half-tree" assembly. However, the root spike greatly reduces the ventilation of the corner joints, which makes the walls warmer. But in order to achieve this, the grooves and tenons must be very tightly connected.
Assembly of cobbled walls with dowels
The assembly of walls using dowels also begins with the assembly of the first crown using the "half-tree" method. After that, the assembly of the walls begins using dowels in the corner joints. To connect the corners, grooves are cut out at both ends of the beams, and dowels are inserted into them, which should fit very tightly to each other. The locations of the veneers and joints are alternated through each crown so that the finished corner looks like the angle shown in the figure when assembling the walls by tying them with a root spike. Very often, nails with a length not less than the width of one and a half crowns are used to connect the rims of the timber, which saves a lot of time. Also, to simplify the assembly of walls using thorns, instead of wooden thorns, metal plates two to three centimeters wide are used.
- The first crown should be started with a half-tree assembly. After two or three crowns, this method can be repeated;
- The location of the wedge should be alternated. Alternating is not required when the wedge is made on both sides;
- Several years later, after the main shrinkage of the walls has occurred, it is necessary to caulk the walls - to close up all the seams;
- Instead of using tow between the crowns when erecting walls from a log house, it is worth using ready-made materials, which will greatly simplify the process of assembling a house from a bar.
And in conclusion, the technology of construction from a bar is in no way inferior to the construction of walls from chopped logs. This material is also very environmentally friendly and comfortable, moreover, it is more technological, if you pay attention to the process of further finishing work.
According to the technology of assembling the walls of a house from a profiled bar, it is necessary to pay more attention to the laying of the first crown. To create a house from a bar, if the temperature in winter is up to -30 degrees, its thickness should be at least 15 cm.
The first beam is set according to the level, this will avoid skewing the building. The first timber is best taken 5 cm thicker than those that will be used to build a house.
In the next step lay interbeam insulation and a second element is mounted on top of it.Timber joints
To connect the logs to each other, pins are usually used, for which holes are made.
The main types of connection:
- corner joints;
- crown joints;
- end longitudinal nodes.
It is best to use lendzhut as a heater; this material contains half flax and half jute.
To complete the work, you will need the following tools:
- roulette;
- hammer;
- cord;
- building level;
- chainsaw.
Erection and bonding of corners
Options for connecting corners without residue:
- in the joint;
- "Half a tree";
- with a root spine;
- on dowels.
With the remainder
- fastening when laying in a corner "with the remainder";
- one-line grooves;
- double-sided lock;
- four-sided lock.
There are several options for building corners:
- with dowels, for which special grooves are made in the bars;
- using a connection like tenon groove, while a thorn is made in one element, and a groove in the other;
- with help metal staples, in this case, the bars are connected end-to-end;
- by way crossing logs, in each of them, half the thickness is cut, and they are connected to each other.
At the locations of windows and doors, only solid material is used, 2 pins are hammered near the openings. You can cut an opening in the finished log house, do it with a chainsaw, but first you need to do the markup.
Warming process
For the construction of a house, beams with a thickness of 15-20 cm are usually used, but if you plan to live in it permanently, then the walls must be additionally insulated. This can be done both outside and inside the building. Outside, siding or blockhouse is most often used, and inside it is clapboard or drywall.
Basic insulation for external walls:
- Mineral wool and its analogues;
- Windproof plates Izoplat;
- Styrofoam;
- Foamed polyethylene;
- Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
- Sprayed polyurethane foam;
- Penoplex.
First, the wall is marked taking into account the size of the insulation, so that it fits snugly between the crate. After that, suspensions are attached with self-tapping screws, on which metal profiles or wooden beams are mounted.
Between the crate, insulation is installed, usually these are mineral wool slabs, which are attached to the wall with dowels, fungi, you can insulate it with penoplex instead of cotton wool, but it has a number of disadvantages (vapor-tight, combustible), the advantages include high sound and thermal insulation, low price.
At the next stage, to protect the insulation, a waterproofing layer is mounted, while its foil side should be facing outward, and all seams are qualitatively glued with tape. Now it remains to close the facade with siding or blockhouse.How to align a wall in a house if it is bent
Sometimes a problem such as deformation occurs, this can happen for several reasons:
- If not dried timber was brought and its final drying takes place already in the wall.
- In case of violation of the installation technology, when the insulation was installed incorrectly and moisture gets between the logs.
If you notice the curvature of the wall in time, then this can be corrected. In those places where deflections have appeared, as well as near window and door openings, a tire from a channel or the same bar is applied and installed vertically along the entire height of the wall on both sides of the building.
Busbar fixing is carried out at least at three points; for this, metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm and wide washers are used. It is necessary to tighten the nuts well, but you should not expect an instant result.
It may take up to several months for the wall to return to its normal shape under the influence of the tire and external weather factors.
If with the help of tires it was not possible to completely align the walls, then you can give the house an attractive look by finishing its facade.
If you decide to build a house from a bar on your own, then in order to obtain a high-quality result, the following recommendations of specialists must be observed:
- Pay special attention to the choice of material; of all conifers, pine is most often used;
- It is better to use wood harvested in winter, if it was harvested in summer, then it is better not to heat the house for the first year, and in the second year it is necessary to maintain the temperature within 16-18 degrees.
- Shrinkage takes place over three years, at which time minor cracks may appear on the walls, which is quite normal, after which the surface changes stop.
- When creating a window or doorway, they must be done a little more than necessary, otherwise, during the shrinkage of the house, the frame will be crushed, the gap is filled with a soft insulation.
- To eliminate lateral displacement, the bars are connected to each other using dowels.
- It is impossible to connect the bars with nails, since when they dry out, the tree hangs on the nails, and large cracks are obtained.
In contact with
The technology of assembling a frame from a bar for a house or a bath
Organization of a workplace for assembling walls
To make the work work, the beams are laid out in a pile at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is stacked on pads made of boards.
Next to the pile, a workplace is equipped for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.
It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the bar with a chain saw.
The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, which with their upper end rest on the upper crown of the frame. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.
Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make the lifting of the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow small forces to be dispensed with. Even one person can, if necessary, raise the bar, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.
It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a blockhouse from a bar with a team of four people. You can work together as well, just work will go slower.
For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is erected.
Three-tiered scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1
- extreme racks; 2
- L-shaped post of scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3
- flooring; 4
- central racks; 5
- cross braces (shown conditionally); 6
- lugs The assembly of the upper rims of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.
At the stage of erecting the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the device of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.
It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from stairs - do not forget about this.
Marking beams for wall assembly
Practical experience in construction shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.
Before starting work, a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house is drawn, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.
An example of an assembly scheme for the walls of a house is shown in the figure:
Scheme for marking the corner joints of the timber and the joints of the parts of the longitudinal walls, for a house with dimensions of 6x9 meters. A and WITH- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- inner wall from a bar - a partition; 1
- the joints of the bars. At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams from 3 to 6 length m.
The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar with a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and on the right - doborks. At the next crown, laying begins in a similar order, but on the right.
Details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.
To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, pos. 1, are performed by making vertical cuts "into the floor of the tree" with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The bar in the corners of the crowns is connected in a ligation with a root spine (see below for more details).
How to correctly and quickly mark out spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identity of the sizes of timber blanks?
The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is placed on the bar and the contour of the template profiles is transferred with a marker to the surface of the bar.
It is more convenient, faster to mark up and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part being marked. I put the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.
For our example, you will need to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. Two mirrored wall details are marked with one template.
If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).
Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of longitudinal walls. 4
- groove for the root spike; 5
- groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6
- sample; 7
- a bar of additional. The figure above shows the template for marking the main bar in the crown, in which the add-on is located on the right. On the wall marking scheme, these are the crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.
Bottom template serves for marking the main bar in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.
At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places of the templates.
The same templates are used to mark the details of the add-ons. To do this, on templates in points b and with through holes were drilled, and in points a and d incisions are made.
To mark the finish, the template is placed on the timber and dots on the surface of the workpiece are punctured through the holes and cuts.
Remember this technique with the pattern holes. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.
The templates are made of "inch" planed board.
As a result, we are able to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.
Now consider how templates are applied. To mark the first bar of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the bar and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatching) is cut with a chain saw.How to mark out spiked parts? Obviously, the tenon and the groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a part with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.
If the groove dimensions are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with a mezhventsovy heater.
The profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the timber using a square. These markings are used for neat cuts.
How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths
Technical conditions (TU) for the manufacture of a bar allow for a deviation of the size of the bar in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.
If the purchase documents indicate standard timber dimensions, for example, a section of 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will be different from the standard.
Each bar in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and the length of the bars will be different.
Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.
How to assemble smooth walls if the timber is different in width and length?
b- the minimum width of the timber; delta b- the difference between a narrow and a wide beam. Obviously, from a bar of different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall even - either outside or inside the building.
If you want to make a flat wall of the house outside, then all the beams in the wall are aligned to the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(The difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment to the outside edge will increase the gaps in the gusset of the beams (see illustration).
If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The outside wall is usually sheathed. And if the beams are chamfered from the outer edges, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. The corner joints of the beams are denser, "warmer".
How and what to connect the crowns of a log house
Each crown of a log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden pins. The pins are placed at a distance of about 250-300 mm from the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.
Each part of the crown is fixed with at least two pins. The length of the dowel should be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the bar.
cm., pos. 1. Round steel pins with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), just hammer into the bars of the crowns, option a on the image.
The upper ends of the pins made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log shrinks, the pins will be higher than the timber and raise the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.
For the same reason it is impossible to make hammered pins from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the bars of the crowns from moving when the log shrinks, even if the dowel is buried in the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such pegs.
Small diameter steel driven pins cannot always provide the required wall stiffness, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install pins with an increased diameter.
Steel pins with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden pins are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly less than the diameter of the pin.
With a tight fit of the dowel into the hole, the stiffness of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.
Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm convenient to cut from round tool cuttings. These cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer from the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.
Can be cut from a regular board "inches" square pins 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.
The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively "soft" coniferous wood are crumpled when driven in, the wood is compacted, ensuring a sufficiently tight fit of the dowel in the hole.
How to properly drill holes in a bar for pins
The depth of the holes in the wall for installing the dowels should be at least 4 cm. the length of the dowel. Moreover, the hole should be free of chips.
To drill holes in a bar that are deep enough and of large diameter, a slow-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The power tool passport usually indicates what drilling diameter in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.
To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.
The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps. An emphasis, in the form of a wooden bar, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from chips, rubbing in and, then, easily gets out of the deep hole.
It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here usually a problem arises - the inter-row gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.
You have to install the timber on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed against displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for pins. Then the timber is moved from the wall and the inter-crown insulation is laid.
At drilling sites the gasket is cut with a sharp knife... Then, the removed beam is put back in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with pins.
Drilling holes in the timber laid on the wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", the powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.
How to make a flat wall from a curved bar
In the timber brought to the construction site, some of the bars may turn out to be bent. The bar can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.
If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other less critical places.
A small amount of beams with curvature in one plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not lay such a beam into the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower rims.
The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.
The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels A curved bar is drilled, aligning it at the drilling points with a straight bar. After laying the mezhventsovy insulation, the curved bar is fixed with a dowel at one end and unbending sequentially fixed with dowels at the other points.
To unbend the bar, great efforts are not required. The lever and bracket will help facilitate the work.
Mezhventsovaya gasket - insulation, seal
For the cold, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or linseed tow was used for this. Currently, there are special liners on the market based on flax or flax. The material is sold as a roll of tape 20 cm.
The strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the timber in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.
If the wall is not sheathed, then from the outer edge of the timber the gasket should be 1-2 cm. otherwise it will get wet.
Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after shrinkage of the log house, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this version, we have a lower consumption of cushioning material.
The work of caulking the joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the sealant thicker, in several layers (three layers), in order to eliminate the need for caulking the horizontal joints.
How to control the correct assembly of a log house
In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correctness of the assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:
- The verticality of the corners.
- Height of corners and walls.
- The horizontality of the rims and upper edges of the timber.
- The straightness of the walls.
- The quality of the installation of the mezhventsovy insulation.
For control of verticality of corners apply the following method.
To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown. 1
- bottom strapping; 2
- crowns; 3
- control lines; 4
- base. A vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner edge.
With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.
If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.
The height of the corners and walls is measured tape measure. Measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.
Horizontal crowns and top edges the timber is checked by level.
Straightness of walls determine visually by pulling a cord along the wall.
The verticality and height of the corners should be checked especially carefully and constantly. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the spacer between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a bar in a high corner.
The quality and thickness of the installation of the mezhventsovy insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.
Window and door openings in a log house
From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.
Laying timber in the crowns in the area of the openings has its own characteristics.
a
- layout of openings in the wall, where: 1
- wall; 2
- door opening; 3
- pier; 4
- window opening. v
- cutting diagram of a bar, where c is the remainder of the cut. G
- a variant of the device of an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos. 7. d
- the option with installation in the opening of the decks, pos. 6 - we immediately get the opening ready for the installation of a door or window. In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.
One option is " G" on the image. The opening is done in a draft version, only preparation is made to create the opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the shrinkage of the log house.
This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall to the frame, pos. 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.
In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can "take away" inward or outward. To prevent this, the timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.
In another version - “ d»In the picture, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. For this, decks (windows) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos. 6 in the figure. The groove includes the spike of the partition bar. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed against displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.
Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also play the role of window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.
Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing of window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical window with a rail - a thorn, enters the groove of the wall bar; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - PSUL sealing tape In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, a deck (window) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the beams of the pier from displacement.
The length of the deck (box) or slats should be 5-7 less than the opening height cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
A bar for a house, a bath in your city
How to correctly install windows in a wall from a bar
If the opening in the wall was made in a rough version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with sawing out the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, pos. 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.
Correct installation of the window in the timber wall. 1
- wall; 2
- rail; 3
- platband; 4
- window; 5
- window box; 6
- wall timber above the window; 7
- mezhventsovy insulation; 8
- shrinkage gap over the window and deck; 9
- window frames; 10
- wall timber (wall); 11
- deck; 12
- nail. Then, with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the beams of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos. 10, a deck is inserted with a groove, pos. 11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
A window box is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house... Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with a soft insulating material.
The expansion gap must also be left above the top end of the deck.
In a similar way, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.
After the completion of the assembly of the first floor of the house, the blockhouse is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the structure is one-story) overlap.
They can be a structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.
The next page describes the construction of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.
Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology of installing a log house from a building bar.