Marmoleum as a floor covering that is not yet known. Cleaning, renewal and restoration of natural linoleum Composition and technical characteristics

Laying, flooring of natural Forbo Marmoleum linoleum

Requirements for the premises
Before laying natural linoleum, the room temperature must be stable for at least 48 hours. The air temperature in the room should not fall below 17 ° C. Substrate temperature should exceed 14 ° C and relative humidity should not exceed 75%.
Preliminary preparation of natural linoleum for laying
Before laying, the rolls of marmoleum must be acclimatized in the room for 24 hours, while it is necessary to give the rolls an upright position.
The labels on the prepared rolls must be easily readable so that the article, color, roll and batch numbers can be controlled. If several rolls of the same color are stacked in the room, make sure that all these rolls are from the same batch (to avoid discoloration).
Base requirements:
Natural linoleum flooring begins with the preparation of the base. The basis for the flooring of the marmoleum should be:

Smooth and monolithic (without lumps, dimples, sags, drops and joints), otherwise all the unevenness of the base will appear on the surface of the marmoleum after laying. And during operation in uneven places, the marmoleum will wipe;

The substrate must be dry (the permissible moisture content of the substrate is no more than 2%, measured by the carbide method);

Durable (not less than 300 kg / cm2);

The substrate must be clean (free from dirt, oil, paint or grease).
Adhesive for laying natural linoleum
For flooring natural linoleum, it is recommended to use exclusively water-based adhesives specially designed for laying natural Marmoleum linoleum, namely - Forbo 418 glue.
characterized by an exceptionally high adhesive strength (at least 3 N / mm2), as well as a high initial adhesive strength. Moreover, this glue has a so-called "moisture retention power". This property is one of the main properties for adhesives intended for natural linoleum. The fact is that, while still wet, 418 glue develops such an adhesive force that either keeps the coating from shrinking completely, or radically reduces the shrinkage of the coating.
It is not recommended to use two-component polyurethane adhesives for laying natural linoleum, since they do not create an initial adhesive force. This means that you will not be able to completely remove bubbles from under the marmoleum during the curing period of the glue. After the polyurethane glue has reacted, it will be impossible to remove the bubbles remaining under the coating.
Preparation of natural linoleum (cutting for the room)

Before laying, the rolls of marmoleum must be rewound with the front side inward - this will significantly reduce the amount of shrinkage!

It is necessary to unwind the roll along the long wall of the room, cut it off, leaving a margin of 10 cm on each side;

Using a trimmer, trim the edge of the linoleum sheet on both sides, undercutting inward to prevent “picking”;

Push the marmoleum sheet against the wall as tightly as possible, making sure that the 10 cm stock is evenly distributed on both sides;

Set the length of the long marker 10 mm longer than the maximum distance obtained between the wall and the covering sheet;

Holding a long marker, as perpendicular to the covering as possible, draw the outline of the wall onto the covering using a needle as a marker;

Now we cut off the material according to the received mark, using the blade-hook, cutting inward;

We push the covering tightly against the wall - the configuration of the wall and the outline of the covering must match;

Draw a line (edge) on the base with a pencil, using the free edge of the marmoleum sheet (opposite from the wall) as a ruler;

On the base and on the sheet of marmoleum, draw a mark (short transverse line) with a pencil, which will fix the position of the sheet;

Slide the marmoleum sheet along the drawn edge of the line until the 10 cm stock left lies loosely on the base;

Install a long marker (between the roller stop and the needle) slightly less than the distance (shift) between the marks on the cover and on the base - to compensate for shrinkage;

Using the marker installed in this way, apply the contour of the wall to the coating, then remove the excess along the resulting contour using a hook blade, cutting inward;

Repeat the above process for the opposite side;
Now sweep or vacuum the base and place the prepared marmoleum sheet in its place;

If it is necessary to lay two or more sheets of natural linoleum indoors, each next sheet is laid in the same way, after which it is cut first along the long side, and then from the ends;

In order to ensure accurate marking of the seams, it is first necessary to overlap the sheets: by 1.5–2 cm.
How to apply the glue for laying marmoleum?
After opening the can, the glue should be thoroughly mixed and applied to the base using a notched trowel TKB / B1. The consumption of glue, when gluing natural linoleum, is about 450 g per 1 sq. m.
In a circular motion, gently and evenly apply the adhesive to the entire surface of the substrate. In this case, you need to use only one side of the spatula, the other must remain clean. The excess glue must be collected back into the jar with a spatula and closed.
After applying the glue to the base, there is no need to withstand the "drying time", since the base absorbs moisture, and the natural linoleum itself is a moisture-permeable coating.
Bonding natural Marmoleum linoleum
After you have cut the marmoleum into canvases in accordance with the room, it can be glued.
Taking hold of the short sides of the sheets, the prepared marmoleum canvases are simultaneously wrapped with the base up, freeing up 1 half of the base area for applying glue.
It is impossible to roll prepared sheets into a roll, as this will lead to deformation of the coating and the appearance of bubbles.

On the base, along the folded edge, draw the border of the glue application with a pencil;

Using a suitable notched trowel (TKB / B1), apply the glue to the substrate, strictly observing the previously marked glue border;

Place the first piece of marmoleum on the glue and roll;

After one side of the linoleum strip has been laid on the glue layer and rolled in, it is necessary to wrap the edge of the marmoleum that has not been glued and carefully apply the glue to the base, observing the border. If there is a repeated application of glue to the same place, then this will appear through the coating in the form of a spot;

Roll the coating across the bale in order to drive out the air under the coating along the shortest path, only then roll it along the bale.

After 15 minutes, you need to re-roll the natural linoleum in order to achieve the final and reliable adhesion of the linoleum and the base;

After all strips of natural linoleum have been laid, the seams must be trimmed. Set the seam width with the short combi marker.

When working with Marmoleumom Forbo, you can:

for rooms where there is no danger of a significant amount of water appearing on the coating, leave a tight seam, abandoning welding, - the transverse expansion of linoleum makes such a seam extremely tight and reliably protects it from the penetration of a small amount of water;
for rooms where the likelihood of water appearing on the coating is very significant, it is necessary to weld the seams, for this it is necessary:

Place the foot of the marker under the previously left "overlap", rest his heel against the edge of the glued cover sheet and, drawing the marker along the edge of the cover, mark the exact contours of the edge of the lower marmoleum cloth on the upper canvas;

Trim the edge along the mark using a hook blade, still trim inward;

Set the cut edge of the coating into glue, pressing carefully;

Remove any glue on the coating with a clean, damp cloth;

Wash the tool from the glue with cold water.

Features of gluing natural linoleum
After you apply the glue, you can carefully lay the marmoleum. Natural linoleum laid on glue must be carefully ground with a board sheathed with a piece of carpet, the air from under the linoleum is squeezed out along the shortest path - in the transverse direction.
After that, it is strongly recommended to roll the entire surface of the marmolemois with heavy rolling rollers weighing 50-70 kg. First, the coating is rolled in the transverse direction, removing air from under the coating, and then in the longitudinal direction. The coating should be rolled especially carefully in the area of the seams.

General recommendations for laying natural linoleum
If several rolls of the same article are placed in a room, you should strive to stack the rolls in sequence with increasing roll numbers.
Sheets of natural linoleum should be stacked in one direction; on the back of the marmoleum there are arrows indicating this direction.
Due to the properties of natural linoleum, when laying in a wet adhesive layer - to shrink in the longitudinal direction (1mm / 1 running meter), it is necessary to rewind the rolls with the front side inward before laying - this will significantly reduce the amount of shrinkage.
Due to the properties of natural linoleum, when laying in a wet adhesive layer, it slightly expands in the transverse direction, it is necessary to cut the marmoleum, slightly tilting the knife so that the sheets of linoleum laid next to it touch the sharp upper edges. When natural linoleum expands, the sharp edges touch and even wrinkle somewhat, forming a tight seam. This will prevent the linoleum from being squeezed out in the area of the seams - the so-called "picking", which would take place if the linoleum sheets rested against each other throughout the entire thickness of the coating.

Welding seams (joints) of natural linoleum
To ensure that natural flooring is completely waterproof, it is necessary to weld the marmoleum sheets using a special welding cord designed for natural linoleum. Please note that different designs can be created on the marmoleum coating using a welding cord of a contrasting color.
Welding work on natural linoleum must be carried out after the glue has completely polymerized, preferably the next day or a few hours after the flooring. If you start welding immediately after laying the coating, then the glue boiling under the influence of hot air and steam emissions from the seam will not allow you to reliably weld the marmoleum joints.
Unlike welding PVC coatings, it would be more correct to apply the term "brazing" to natural linoleum, since hot air is not able to melt the coating made from wood flour.
When "welding" natural linoleum, the cord, consisting of a low-melting polymer, melts, penetrates into the pores of the marmoleum and, solidifying, seals the seam.
For high-quality "welding" of natural linoleum, it is necessary to use only a professional tool: a hair dryer with stepped air temperature control, special knives and accessories.

Make a "groove" for the seam using a grover carving knife;

The depth of the "groove" should be almost the entire depth of the marmoleum, up to the jute base, which cannot be damaged;

Then it is necessary to thoroughly vacuum the seam area;

Set the temperature of the hair dryer to about 350 ° C, put on a cast nozzle with a diameter of 5 mm and turn on the hair dryer;

Wait until the nozzle heats up to the required temperature;

We take a piece of the welding cord a little more than half of the seam and insert it into the nozzle, immediately press the end of the cord into the groove of the seam and, holding it in this position for about a second, begin to move the hair dryer along the seam (with the same, low, speed of movement);

The heel of the nozzle must always be parallel to the surface during movement;

It is necessary to select the correct speed of the hair dryer, making sure that the cord does melt, bonding with the coating material; with the correct welding process, two tracks of tiny beads from the material of the welding cord are formed on the sides of the seam;

Immediately after the end of welding, while the cord is hot, using a sickle-shaped knife and a nozzle for preliminary cutting of the cord, remove the "rough" excess cord;

Repeat welding, starting from the opposite wall, and put the cord with an overlap of 20 cm on the previously welded and cut cord;

After the temperature of the cord equals the temperature of the coating, it is necessary to cleanly remove the excess cord, while keeping the sickle-shaped knife as parallel to the floor surface as possible.
If you cut the fused cord in one pass, when the cord is still hot, then as a result, after the cord cools down, a groove will remain - the cord shrinks when cooled. Such carelessness can lead to a significant deterioration in the appearance of the installed flooring, as dirt and dust will collect in the grooves.

When creating designs in the form of friezes ("frames"), it is necessary to cut strips natural linoleum only along the roll, but not across. Natural linoleum, when rolled into a roll, has undergone significant bending forces for a long time and is in a stressed state. Having cut the strips across the roll, it is impossible to compensate for this stress with the adhesive force (due to the small width of the strip); as a result, the strips of the coating will take on a characteristic shape - “slab”. The smaller the width of the strip, the more noticeable this effect will be. Most often, such a "slab" cannot be corrected by pressing down with the help of unfolding heavy objects in such areas.
THEREFORE, when creating friezes, you need to adhere to the following rules:
The stripes are always laid in one direction, in accordance with the direction arrow;
The marmoleum strips, from which the frieze is formed, are joined only diagonally, at an angle of 45 °, - this will allow to evenly distribute the stress and prevent breaks and / or “picking” at the joints.
Drying chamber deflection
The term "deflection of the drying chamber" is understood as a factor associated with the technology of natural linoleum production, namely, the preservation on a sheet of linoleum of a stable transverse "wave" 10-12 cm wide of the trace from the crossbeam used to tension the sheet of natural linoleum when marmoleum matures in the drying chamber.
As a rule, it is located in the middle of the roll - at a distance of 15-16 meters from the beginning of the roll. Unfortunately, due to the stress in this area, the installation of the "drying chamber deflection" is fraught with some difficulties. For reliable gluing of such an area, the reliable adhesive force inherent in adhesives for natural linoleum is often not enough. Therefore, if possible, it is recommended not to use this area, if the size of the premises, the design of the coating pattern and the supply of linoleum allow.

Cleaning, renovation and restoration of natural linoleum

Marmoleum is not only a beautiful, but also an environmentally friendly floor covering that is resistant to wear and tear. Like any material, natural linoleum requires maintenance.

To extend the life of the coating, restore shine and original appearance, it is recommended every 1-2 years (depending on the intensity of use of the coating) to carry out a general cleaning of the marmoleum.

Below is a clear demonstration of the "restoration" of the appearance of natural linoleum-marmoleum, at one of our facilities.

Marmoleum was intensively used in the corridors of the institute for 2 years and after that time we made its renovation. We want to show you step by step the whole process of renewing natural linoleum:

So, in photo 1 (below) you can see how the marmoleum looked after 2 years of intensive use.

Rice. 1
We start the process of updating / restoring marmoleum:

Step 1. Cleaning (Fig. 2).

On the most dirty areas of the floor (dark stripes, stubborn dirt), grind the diluted Forbo 891 cleaner (3 caps for 2 liters of water) and leave for 15 minutes, letting it dissolve dirt particles for easier cleaning.

After 15 minutes, wash the entire floor with water with the addition of Forbo 891 cleaner in a lower concentration (1: 100 or 1 cap for 2 liters of water).

Step 2... Thoroughly rinse the floor with plain clean water to remove the remains of the cleaner and dirt (wash twice).

Rice. 2

Step 3... On the cleaned dry floor, apply the first layer of Forbo 898 mastic (it can be matte / glossy), in this case, glossy mastic was used. (the mastic is applied in 2 layers).

We distribute the mastic over the entire surface using a lint-free cloth, or (as in this case), a large area of the floor is processed using a special mop-polisher. Let the floor dry completely before applying the second coat of mastic. Important: when distributing the mastic, rub it in a circular motion and avoid accumulation of mastic (whitish spots or stripes).

Rice. 3. The mastic is applied in 1 layer.
Step 4. After the first layer has completely dried (about 30 minutes) - repeat step 3, apply the second layer of mastic.

Rice. 4. The mastic is applied in 2 layers.
Step 5. Let the floor dry completely (at least 30 minutes). You should refrain from walking on the rubbed floor until it is completely dry.

Rice. 5. Result. (On the left - it was, on the right - the Renewed marmoleum).
We offer an integrated approach to working with floor coverings, including installation, dismantling and further maintenance of floor coverings.

Here you can find a line of products for the protection, care and restoration of natural linoleum-marmoleum, and get advice on the care of any other type of flooring.

We are glad to be of service to you.

01.07.2017

Every year the construction market pleases with a mass of new materials. One of these is marmoleum. This material is used for installation as a floor covering and cannot be used for any other purpose.

What is the material?

The presented product looks very similar to ordinary linoleum, but it differs in its technical characteristics.

Marmoleum has the main feature: it is a completely natural material.

The fact is that the following components are used for manufacturing in production: linseed oil, chalk, resin of coniferous trees, wood flour, as well as elements of cork oak wood. The use of various dyes allows you to get a lot of color and texture options.

Another feature of the product is that the pattern on its surface can retain its brightness and color for a long time. This is ensured by a special technology for applying a picture, which assumes its location over the entire thickness of the layer. In stores, marmoleum is sold in the form of panels, rolls, and tiles. The roll option is most common.

Specifications

Before purchasing this natural material, you need to find out what features it has. Marmoleum has the following technical characteristics:

Warranty period of operation: at least 35 years.
Mechanical strength of the product: 160 kg / cm2.
Standard material dimensions: roll - width - 2 m, thickness - 2-4 mm; tiles - 50x50 or 30x30 cm; panels - 90x30 cm.
Specific gravity: 2.6-3.4 kg / m2.

Classification

Such a floor covering has a classification similar to linoleum. For example, there are such classes of marmoleum:

41-43 - such a product can be considered the most durable and reliable. It is used most often where a large number of people congregate. For example, this material can be laid in shopping centers, airports, train stations. Due to the thickness of the decorative layer, which is 3 mm, it can serve for a long time and with high quality.

Advantages and disadvantages

Marmoleum has the following advantages:

Security. Since the product is made from natural materials, it does not emit any harmful substances. In addition, this coating is well suited for allergy sufferers and children. Natural resins, which are present in the composition of the material, provide a bactericidal effect.
High degree of resistance to mechanical stress.
The product is UV-resistant, so it does not fade.
The coating has a high level of resistance to fire and temperature changes. This feature allows you to use it for arranging underfloor heating.

Resistant to moisture.
Despite the relatively small layer thickness, such a floor does not require additional noise, thermal and waterproofing. Thanks to this, your repairs will be completed faster, and you will spend much less money.
A wide variety of standard sizes.
Possibility of laying the material on the old floor covering.
Resistance to the influence of chemicals.
Good decorative qualities.

Moreover, this material practically does not accumulate static electricity.

Despite the fact that this coating is natural, it also has certain disadvantages:

Relative stiffness. Over time, the coating softens a little and hardens. This fact does not allow it to be used to decorate walls or ceilings.
Fragility. During transportation and use of the product, you need to be especially careful with the edges of the elements. As for the rolls, you can roll them only once.
Quite a lot of weight. But this does not prevent the marmoleum from remaining relatively plastic along the edges.
Difficulties in processing. When cutting elements, you will not be able to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth cut. However, this problem is eliminated by installing the skirting board.

Features of laying roll cover and panels

The presented flooring has good enough user reviews that will help you choose the right option. Now you can consider how the marmoleum is laid. First of all, it needs to be prepared for work. That is, a roll or tile should lie in the room in which they will be laid for at least a day. During this time, you can remove all furniture, debris from the room and vacuum the base well. You may need to further align it.

In principle, the flooring of rolled marmoleum is most often done in large rooms. The technology of its laying is practically no different from the features of the installation of ordinary linoleum.

As for the panels, they must be laid as carefully as possible. The fact is that fastening latches are thin spikes that can be broken with one careless movement.

Features of "click" tile installation

The presented material is laid on a substrate. It compensates for some unevenness in the substrate and also prevents the formation of condensation. Usually such a substrate is made of polyethylene, and is laid with a small overlap of 20 cm. An additional layer of thermal insulation is not required. Please note that you do not need to use glue to mount the elements.

So, the technology of laying the coating consists of the following stages:

Installation of the first row. In this case, keep in mind that you will have to step back from the wall about 1 cm. This is necessary to form expansion joints. The groove of the first element should be directed in the opposite direction from the wall, the ridge, on the contrary, to the wall. Marmoleum is mounted quite simply, but this process has a peculiarity: each subsequent tile must be connected to the previous one at a slight incline.

The photo shows the very feature of the installation. The next tile is joined at an angle.

Installation of the second row. It is produced in the same way as the previous one. Remember about the expansion joint, for this place a block under the first tile. After fixing the rest of the elements, it is removed, and the locks click into place.
Installation of the remaining rows. In this case, parallelism must be taken into account.

Rolled floor materials are one of those materials that are initially subject to high requirements, which are best met by linoleum and laminate. Unconditional ease of use, long service life and the richest range of models determine that the buyer prefers to “vote with the ruble” for his “favorites”. However, difficulties await the buyer here as well. Laminated MDF panels (laminate) or linoleum? The lack of significant differences in price only complicates the choice. But no one canceled free competition, the struggle for the buyer, which is relevant among manufacturers, tended to grow and reached its climax, when manufacturers refused to "reinvent the wheel" and began to develop, at first glance, a new, but, as it turned out, well forgotten old material representing a symbiosis of linoleum and laminate. And so marmoleum appeared - a material from a new line of Forbo, the name of which later became a household name.

Marmoleum - a new material from environmentally friendly raw materials

Marmoleum can rightfully be considered a new step in interior design, but a similar statement, the essence of which is that this marmoleum is a product of innovative technologies taking place in the arena of the modern market, is only half true. Despite the fact that marmoleum, which you can buy at any hardware store, is considered new material, this statement is not sufficiently substantiated. In fact, this is a material produced according to old technologies, in the manufacturing process of which ultra-modern equipment was used. As a result of the modification of the proven manufacturing chain and the use of only natural ingredients, consumers were able, without a doubt, to purchase a high-quality floor covering that combines the advantages of linoleum and laminate.

Linoleum from natural raw materials - marmoleum attracts the attention of consumers with its unique composition, which does not contain artificially synthesized components. The raw material base for making marmoleum includes cork bark, linseed oil, wood flour, chalk and coniferous resins. The decorative properties of marmoleum are in no way inferior to the technological ones - a unique way of coloring and drawing a pattern not only allows the material to retain its decorative characteristics for a long time, but also allows to significantly diversify the color range of the material. The growing popularity of marmoleum is also facilitated by other advantages of the material, which will be discussed in the article.

Advantages of marmoleum that you need to pay attention to

Absolute environmental safety of marmoleum, due to the use of only natural ingredients in the manufacturing process;
Non-toxic and, moreover, hypoallergenic marmoleum has bactericidal properties;
The affordable price of marmoleum also contributes to its popularization among various segments of the population: finishing the floor with marmoleum will cost 20-30% cheaper than finishing with a laminate;
The insulating characteristics of marmoleum make it unnecessary for additional heat and sound insulation;
Resistance to external damaging factors and hygiene of natural linoleum are another advantage of the material. According to the research results, it turned out to be indifferent to the effects of solar radiation, moisture and mechanical deformation. The paint spilled on the marmoleum coating does not stick to it, and therefore, its cleaning does not require the use of specialized cleaning agents, it is enough to wipe the floor with a rag;
No tendency to accumulate static electricity and absolute incombustibility.
Marmoleum is characterized by a variety of shades and textures, which currently includes more than 100 primary colors and a tint palette that includes more than 2000 options;

Thus, marmoleum, the characteristics of which are presented above, gains a well-deserved primacy among finishing floor coverings. Due to its resistance to temperature and humidity extremes, exposure to chemicals, mechanical stress, as well as the absence of the need for specialized cleaning, marmoleum in the kitchen becomes the optimal solution for those who are connoisseurs of premium finishing materials.

Disadvantages of marmoleum coating

Despite the abundance of advantages inherent in marmoleum, this material is not devoid of disadvantages, about which a few words must also be said.

Fragility, especially pronounced at the edges, necessitates extremely careful handling of the material during its laying, as well as compliance with certain rules, for example, twisting marmoleum into a roll can be done only once, and the base of the material should be turned outward;
The tendency to harden, which, on the one hand, is favorable for the floor, and on the other, can cause cracking. In addition, over time, the material diffuses somewhat over time, which is also only a relative disadvantage, which has its positive aspects and makes it possible not to seal the seams between the tiles, which will gradually converge over time.
The severity of marmoleum, coupled with residual plasticity and favorable, provided the floor is finished, excludes the use of material for wall decoration, which will cause a possible violation of the integrity of the material under the influence of gravity;
And, finally, the lack of the possibility of obtaining an even cut in the process of cutting the material determines the fact that marmoleum is cut only along the walls, where an uneven cut can be covered with a plinth. This somewhat limits the decorative possibilities of the material by laying out a pattern from standard tiles.

Forms of release, classes and individual characteristics of marmoleum

Forms of release of marmoleum

Roll marmoleum, which is characterized by standard width indicators - 2 meters, and variable width indicators, which vary depending on the material class.
Marmoleum tiles in standard sizes 50x50cm and 30x30cm;
Standard panels 90x30cm, equipped with an improved locking system, which provides for the installation of the lock using glue;

Roll marmoleum is a modified type of PVC linoleum, which is based on cork chips, which increase the heat and sound insulation properties of the material, as well as providing its additional flexibility. A flexible and elastic base, which ensures the flexibility of the material during installation, and as a result, facilitates this event, is the reason for the significant drawbacks of marmoleum, revealed during operation.

Here are the main ones:

The tendency to increase the linear dimensions of the material during operation, to prevent which the masters advise linoleum to "lie down" and only after that press it with a plinth;
The legendary wear resistance of marmoleum, due to its increased rigidity, can turn into another drawback of the material - an unstable structure that is the cause of the appearance of pits from the furniture. High rigidity affects the quality of the elasticity of the material, which becomes the reason for the violation of its original structure;
Cork crumb, which makes it possible to exclude the use of toxic substances in the laminate, also adversely affects its elasticity and slightly reduces thermal conductivity.

Despite all the existing myths about the fragility of rolled marmoleum, we will try to dispel your concerns: with careful handling of the material, in the absence of its kinks and following the instructions, rolling, cutting and laying of the material will not cause you unnecessary trouble.

Marmoleum photo

Marmoleum classes

Speaking about the classes of marmoleum, we will distinguish three main ones:

41-43 class of marmoleum is characterized by the presence of an upper decorative layer exceeding 3mm. Possesses the greatest resistance to mechanical stress and is mainly used for finishing public premises with a continuous flow of visitors;
31-33 class. Marmoleum intended for finishing industrial premises. The thickness of the upper decorative layer is not more than 2.5 mm. It is characterized by less resistance to variable loads than that of the previous class marmoleum, however, static loads are the prerogative of the described class;
21-23 class - general purpose marmoleum. It differs from the previous classes in a smaller thickness of the top layer (less than 2 mm), however, for finishing residential premises it is considered the most preferable option, not only in terms of lower cost, but also greater wear resistance. It is important to note that this type of marmoleum, the price of which depends on the class, is most preferable for finishing residential premises.

Thus, a logical conclusion suggests itself, the essence of which is that you should not choose the most expensive material in pursuit of its greater wear resistance. The first class of marmoleum, despite the large thickness of the top layer and the highest cost, is not resistant to static loads, and therefore mechanical deformations can form on linoleum under the influence of long-standing furniture. This can be avoided by choosing a cheaper material intended for decoration of residential premises and with greater resistance to static loads.

Marmoleum Forbo. Historical facts

As already mentioned, the American company Forbo became a pioneer in the production of a qualitatively new type of linoleum, called "marmoleum".

Subsequently, the word "marmoleum" became a household name and began to be used to name similar products from other manufacturers. According to the results of numerous tests, forbo marmoleum is a floor covering that meets international quality standards and meets the requirements for environmental friendliness. The most popular among consumers is forbo marmoleum, characterized by the presence of a locking mechanism, which is produced using the Aquaprotect technology. The production of the coating is carried out in the form of a panel or tile, the basis of which is cork and moisture-resistant NDF, covered with a protective layer.

Marmoleum forbo is resistant to mechanical factors, as a result of which it is not afraid of damage from animal claws, thin female hairpins and other influences that would be detrimental to other floor coverings. It is not without reason that the floor marmoleum forbo was named "unkillable".

Technological features of laying marmoleum of various forms of release

If in the process of laying marmoleum you decide to use laminate tools, then you must use them with great care, since the edges of the material are fragile. Ideally, it is better to give preference to a rubber or wooden hammer and a clamp-hook, with a hook of at least 150 mm, however, in general, the set of tools remains standard.

Preparation of the base

In most cases, there is no need to prepare the base before laying marmoleum, since it can be laid on the previous coating using any mounting glue, however, if the previous coating has undergone severe wear, it is better to lay marmoleum directly on the concrete base, without worrying about the need for additional thermal insulation. since marmoleum is a high quality heat insulator. In the case of installing marmoleum on the previous coating, the tiles are laid end-to-end using glue, while the panels, in view of their fragility, are best mounted on a concrete base.

Concrete base and cement-sand screed are required for additional leveling. It is necessary to get rid of sharp protrusions that can reach 1.5-2 mm and are removed with a drill or grinder. After leveling, dust is swept from the floor, the remains are collected with a vacuum cleaner, and the floor is sprayed with water.

Cutting the material

Cutting the material must begin by determining the number of solid tiles or panels, after which the number of rows that will lie along the length of the room is determined. In the process of measurements, it is necessary to take into account a gap of at least 15-30 mm along the perimeter, which is closed with skirting boards. It must be taken into account so that in the process of deformation the coating does not rise over time.

Laying tile marmoleum

Tiled marmoleum, equipped with a locking system, is often laid on a plastic base, which is overlapped. It is used to prevent condensation from forming. In the process of "click" marmoleum, the use of glue is not required, as a result of which the installation is carried out in a "floating" way. In the process of installation activities, the tiles are connected according to the "groove-comb" system. The first tile must be laid, stepping back 1 cm from the wall, while the groove is directed to the side opposite to the wall, and the ridge is directed to the wall. Each subsequent tile of the first row is inserted into the groove of the previous tile at a slight slope.

The laying of the second row is also carried out at an angle with the obligatory formation of an expansion joint, for which it is necessary to put a bar under the tile. After installing the remaining tiles, the bar is removed, and the locks are snapped into place. After finishing work on the last row, you need to make sure that the rows are parallel and check the distance from the wall to the tiles. When assembling the final row, part of the groove is removed, a small amount of glue is applied to the tile and knocked out with a bar. The gap formed between the wall and the tile is closed with a plinth.

Roll marmoleum. Flooring features

The flooring of rolled marmoleum is carried out mainly in large, commercial premises. At the same time, the technological features of the flooring do not differ at all from the flooring of commercial and semi-commercial varieties of linoleum. However, there are some nuances that must be observed:

the substrate must be absolutely clean, free from traces of paint or oily substances;
mandatory use of specialized glue.

Laying panel marmoleum

Panel marmoleum won the recognition of consumers due to the simplicity of installation activities. The installation of a "quick floor", as it was called by consumers, is carried out several times faster than the installation of a traditional tile floor.

During the installation of panel marmoleum, it is important to observe safety rules and handle the panels with care, as the material is prone to cracking and deformation. In order to correctly install the panels, it is necessary to closely examine the structure of the material, since the spikes located on the sides of the panels can be easily damaged by inexperienced handling.

Caring for the floor covering marmoleum

In the process of caring for the coating, it is not recommended to carry out machine cleaning, and in the process of manual cleaning, to use abrasive sponges. From the point of view of the greatest efficiency, dry cleaning has proven itself, and in the case of the appearance of difficult to remove stains, wet cleaning with the use of neutral cleaning agents. Currently, specialized cleaning agents have been invented - manteiners, designed to maintain a presentable appearance of hard floors.

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