In any living organism, be it a plant or an animal, nature has a certain genetic code that determines its properties and requirements for the environment.
Breeding work with seed material carried out for many decades has made it possible to change and improve the appearance and taste of vegetables.
But it is very rarely given the opportunity to change their requirements for the growing environment, although some plants can adapt to changing conditions in nature through mutational processes.
Hot India with high air humidity - homeland of cucumber... In the wild, it still grows in those places.
Images of a cucumber have been found on frescoes in Ancient Egypt and Greek temples. A vegetable known in such ancient times in other countries in Russia was first mentioned in printed sources in the 16th century.
Presumably, the cucumber came to us from East Asia, but it tasted amazingly and became a truly national product.
Bountiful harvests of cucumbers are grown in most of the country - in greenhouses and on the ground. And then, with love and diligence, cucumbers are harvested for eating all year round.
Wild tomatoes were first discovered in South America during the expedition of Christopher Columbus, and their seeds were brought to Europe because of the decorativeness of the bushes. At home, tomato thickets were found on dry and ventilated mountain slopes. The climate of those places was ideal for tomatoes - mild, temperate, with occasional heavy rains. The 24-hour temperature ranged from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius.
REFERENCE: In Holland, France and Germany, tomatoes were grown in the greenhouses of wealthy people, landed for decoration in gardens and near gazebos. Their fruits were considered poisonous. And only in 1811, the German Botanical Dictionary posted on its pages information that tomatoes can be eaten.
They came to Russia under Catherine II, but only at the beginning of the 19th century they began to grow in the southern regions of the country as edible crop and get good harvests.
Photo
In the photo below you can see cucumbers and tomatoes in one polycarbonate greenhouse:
Capricious neighbors
If there is only one greenhouse, but really want to get a harvest of those and other favorite vegetables, the desire to experiment often wins. Desperate summer residents and gardeners boldly divide the greenhouse area into two adjacent zones and plant tomato seedlings on one, and cucumber seedlings on the other. What is the compatibility of cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse? Let's try to answer this question.
During the summer, both crops receive the same care and grow in the same microclimate with the same conditions. With special diligence, the owners do not remain without a crop, but they will not have to be called abundant.
The reason for this is all the same genetics that require different conditions for each type of vegetables close to those in which their distant wild relatives once grew.
For cucumbers the optimal conditions for favorable growth will be a hot atmosphere, with high humidity, up to 90-100%.
Drafts are detrimental to this culture. Moreover, they significantly increase the yield of cucumbers. To do this, in warm weather, the bushes are well shed under the root and over the leaves, the paths and walls of the greenhouse are abundantly watered.
Then the doors are tightly closed and withstand this mode for 1-1.5 hours, after which the greenhouse is opened for ventilation. The leaves of cucumbers are very large, such procedures allow them to safely cope with the evaporation of moisture, preventing drying out.
With insufficient moisture, cucumbers grow tasteless, ugly in shape.
Tomatoes feel better in a different microclimate. Like their cousins in the wild, they prefer low humidity, 40 to 60%. They are very fond of airing.
Enough on average 2 times a week. In a too humid environment, the pollen in the flowers sticks together, the fruits in the brushes are not tied. The consequence of high humidity in the greenhouse is always the appearance of fungal and bacterial diseases of tomatoes.
The yield of vegetables decreases, the taste of the fruits deteriorates, and cracks appear on them.
With such different requirements, any compromise will mean a situation where both sides lose, so it is worth trying to change the conditions by setting up separate zones in capital greenhouses. 
Divide living space: growing cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse
Divide the greenhouse in two parts you can partitions from slate, plastic curtains, plywood. Cucumbers are planted in the far "room" where the window is located. Here they will be protected from drafts, it will be possible to provide them with high humidity.
Tomatoes will be planted in the square near the greenhouse door. It is possible by keeping the door open at all times to maintain a relatively low humidity and temperature in the greenhouse.
In order to prevent water from flowing from one section to another, it will be necessary to make a barrier to separate the soil to a depth.
Now you can pamper tomato bushes with good feeding, which they love very much. This is especially true for tall varieties of tomatoes.
For cucumbers in a personal "room" abundant water treatments and high humidity are provided without much harm to neighbors. And tomatoes - generous watering with warm water, strictly under the root, avoiding contact with the leaves.
For lovers of the process itself, working with plants, planting tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse will bring pleasure even if the vegetable harvest is not huge.
The most important thing is that with any method, there will be pimpled green cucumbers and poured raspberry tomatoes in the basket.
ATTENTION: Experienced gardeners, determined to get the best yield possible, will adhere to strict rules to create optimal conditions for each crop. They will grow all vegetables in a separate greenhouse unless they need the same environment for growth. For example, the same cucumbers and bell peppers or melon. Or tomatoes and various green vegetables.
So, is it possible to plant cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse? The answer to the question of how to plant, when to plant, as well as the decision of which method of growing cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse to choose, whether it will be joint or not, remains the right of every gardener. If fussing in the garden is more desirable than the opportunity to get more harvest- experiments are just for you!
Useful video
A video about growing cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse, see below:
If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.
The very first step towards getting your homemade produce is choosing the right seeds. Not all varieties are suitable for cultivation in such difficult conditions. Choose from parthenocarpics, they do not require pollination. Such hybrids as "Aprelsky", "Mashenka", "Karapuz", "Stella", "Ant" and others have proven themselves well. It is preferable to grow balcony hybrids. These are "Hummingbird", "Makhaon", "City Cucumber", "Balkonny", "Balagan" and others.
If you still want to plant a good bee-pollinated variety, you will have to manually pollinate. To do this, a male flower is torn off and the stamens of female flowers are lightly touched with a pistil.
You also need to stock up on good fertile soil. To do this, in the fall, dig up garden soil, sand and humus. Prepare the substrate in this proportion - for 80% of the garden land, take 10% of sand and humus. Mix everything well and be sure to steam it by placing a container of soil over a pot of boiling water.
If you don't feel like messing around with preparing the soil mixture, buy ready-made soil in the store.
Be sure to soak them before placing them in a damp cloth. It is better to plant cucumbers for growing at first in small plastic cups. And when the seedlings release cotyledon leaves, transplant one plant at a time into spacious pots.
Cucumbers are grown on the southern window, and when a mustache appears, you need to stick a peg and tie up the stem. Remove all side shoots, they will only weaken the plant. And when there are at least 12 leaves on the stem, pinch the top. This will contribute to the rapid ripening of the already set fruits.
If there is not enough lighting, supplement with fluorescent lamps.
Features of growing tomatoes on a windowsill
Not all tomatoes will bear fruit abundantly at home, it is better to choose low-growing early varieties, for example, "Japanese room", "Dubok", "Moskvich", "Bonsai", "Ladybug", etc. Before sowing, the seeds must be treated with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate for 1-2 minutes. This will destroy the pathogens of late blight and other diseases. After that, the seeds are dried, sown in seedling boxes, which are placed in a warm place, covered with glass. After the emergence of shoots, the boxes are transferred to a lighted place, and the glass is removed. Tomatoes grow quickly, and after 5-7 days you need to dive. At this point, the seedlings will have a real leaf. During the pick, carefully remove one plant from the ground, cut off the root tip and transplant the seedlings one by one into a spacious pot. For the soil, you can use a mixture of humus, turf and sand, taken in equal parts.
With good lighting and a temperature of at least 20 ° C, the seedlings grow quickly, you only need to remove the stepsons and water them in time, but at the same time do not allow waterlogging. Pre-defend water for irrigation. For the prevention of fungal diseases, spray with a solution of Bordeaux liquid. To do this, dissolve 10 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of water. Then dilute 20 g of slaked lime in 100 g of water. Mix the liquids and process the seedlings.
To pollinate tomatoes 2-3 times a week, tap the flowers on the brushes. And when the main part of the fruit is tied, remove the tops from each plant and cut off any new flower brushes. This will promote maturation.
Many gardeners often argue on the topic: "Is it possible to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse?" Opinions were divided, one side says that it is impossible to plant tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, others prove by their experience that they get a harvest of cucumbers and tomatoes from the same greenhouse.
In fact, vegetable crops - tomato and cucumber do not oppress each other in any way if they are placed in different beds , but these two types of plants require different conditions and rules of care when growing, which can cause problems. What's good for cucumbers is dangerous for tomatoes and vice versa. ... You can grow cucumbers and tomatoes at the same time in the same greenhouse, but you need to take into account the requirements and care features for each crop.
Features of growing tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse:
Most gardeners have one greenhouse on the plot, and they want to get an early harvest from the two most popular vegetable crops. In order to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in a common greenhouse, you need to adhere to the rules:
1. Plant tomatoes and cucumbers in different beds , planting them together is not permissible, since the fast-growing lashes of cucumbers will braid the tomato stems and shade them.
2. Tomato and cucumber have different requirements for air humidity. ... For tomatoes, you need to keep the air in the greenhouse dry, for this you often ventilate it. With high air humidity, condensation forms on the walls of the shelter, drops falling on the leaves and the ground, awaken the spores of various diseases. The most dangerous tomato disease - late blight, spreads quickly at high humidity.
Cucumbers, on the contrary, love a humid atmosphere, do not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature changes. However, excess moisture is not beneficial to cucumbers, this culture also has many diseases that progress with high air humidity - root rot, gray rot, powdery mildew, therefore, it is imperative to ventilate the greenhouse where the cucumbers grow.
Find a compromise: if, when growing a tomato, many keep the greenhouse constantly open in the summer so that there is no condensation, then when growing together with cucumbers, it is better to air it in the daytime. Tomatoes are not afraid of temperature changes during the day and at night, but cucumbers can taste bitter due to such fluctuations.
3. To smooth out the jumps in humidity in the air and in the soil, mulch the beds for cucumbers and tomatoes ... For mulching, you can use straw, plucked weeds, mowed lawn grass. Mulch will delay the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface, while the ground after irrigation will stay moist longer and the air dry. Mulch also smoothes temperature differences, preventing the soil from overheating during the day and cooling at night.
4. Watering cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse should be done differently. Cucumbers are moisture-loving, for them the soil must be kept constantly moderately moist; in hot weather, cucumbers have to be watered every day. Since cucumbers have a superficial root system, when the top layer of the soil dries out, the plants begin to suffer from a lack of moisture, the large leaves wither. To prevent the topsoil from drying out quickly, use mulch, spreading plant residues over the entire surface of the garden.
Tomatoes are drought-resistant plants, their roots go down a meter or more, so they need to be watered rarely, but abundantly, 1-2 times a week. When watering a tomato, you should not moisten the entire surface of the earth in the garden; watering is carried out in holes, in irrigation ditches, in bottles, so that the water goes deep into the soil, and the ground remains dry on the surface.
Other care for tomatoes and cucumbers - feeding, the formation should be individual for each crop.
5. When planting cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse, do not thicken the plants. Closely located plants oppress each other, lack light, nutrition, their productivity decreases, and the risk of diseases increases.
In the greenhouse, when planting cucumbers in two lines, place the plants in a checkerboard pattern, making a gap of at least 50 cm between the plants, i.e. in a row about 1 meter. Plant tomatoes less frequently than outdoors.
Tomatoes and cucumbers rarely get sick with the same diseases, but due to thickened plantings, poor air exchange between plants, fungal diseases arise for each culture.
6. When caring for tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, it is important to timely form the plants, remove yellowed leaves, stepchildren, so that the stems of plants are bare from the ground to a height of about 30-50 cm, then ventilation over the soil will be good, the risk of diseases will decrease.
7. When growing tomatoes and cucumbers together in a heifer, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments for diseases starting in June, while there are no signs of illness. When spraying against diseases, you can use a biological fungicide - phytosporin, diluting it according to the instructions.
How to choose a place for growing tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse?
When growing tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, the question immediately arises of how to place these two crops - on different beds on both sides of the greenhouse or to divide the greenhouse in half. To determine, study the location and orientation of the greenhouse to the cardinal points.
Tomatoes, as the most sun-loving plants, it is better to take the sunny side, where there is no shade from the fence or buildings, usually it is a south or east direction on the side of the world. For cucumbers, it is better to highlight the northwest side, which the sun illuminates for less of the day. If the planting is carried out the other way around, then the cucumbers will shade the tomatoes, since they quickly grow long stems with large leaves, they, like curtains, will cover the sun for the tomatoes.
The popularity of growing various crops in greenhouses is growing. Many people install polycarbonate greenhouses on the site, in which various crops are planted from early spring. Many gardeners are concerned about the question: "Is it possible to plant cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse?" The answer to this question is ambiguous, as opinions are divided. Some are categorically against growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same space. Others find alternatives.
Cucumbers and tomatoes are completely different crops that require different growing conditions. The growth and development of plants is influenced by the level of illumination, the frequency and correctness of watering, the humidity of the air and the amount of fertilizers applied to the soil. Given that tomatoes and cucumbers need different greenhouse conditions, you can grow them together, although this will cause some trouble.
To properly equip a greenhouse for growing two different crops there, you need to figure out what conditions you need to create for each plant.
When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, you need to take into account that this culture is very fond of water and moisture. Frequent watering will allow you to grow a high-quality and large harvest. But this culture does not need airing. Cucumbers “love” nitrogen as a top dressing.
What tomatoes need:
- Tomatoes don't like too humid air.
- Plants need to be watered abundantly, but not very often.
- For plants to grow and develop normally, they need abundant ventilation.
- You need to fertilize plants with potassium and phosphorus. They are less demanding for the presence of nitrogen in the soil.
- Too moist soil and air can cause diseases that will kill tomatoes. Plants can die from late blight, brown spot, powdery mildew and gray mold.
Both cucumbers and tomatoes can kill ticks, aphids, cicada or whitefly. It is important to handle the plants separately, as different infections can be transferred by hand from one crop to another. The problem of growing different crops in a greenhouse is obvious.
How to properly place cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse
For cultures to get along together, they must be separated. To do this, each of the crops needs to create the appropriate microclimate it needs. To do this, experienced gardeners usually physically separate the plants, dividing the greenhouse into two parts and enclosing the areas with film or other material.
It is important to pay attention to soil separation, as cucumbers like wetter soil and tomatoes like drier soil.
You can divide the soil with roofing material or iron plates, which will prevent too much soil moisture in the half where the tomatoes grow. You also need to pay attention to which part of the greenhouse the vents are located. The more ventilated part of the greenhouse should be set aside for the tomatoes.
How to divide cultures:
- At the end of each side, equip a separate entrance to each culture.
- Where tomatoes grow, there should be many vents so that abundant ventilation can be arranged.
- At the soil level, it is important to separate the plants with a partition: in this way, the tomato will be protected from the moisture that the cucumbers need.
- To create an optimal microclimate, you need a film that completely separates the tomatoes from the cucumbers.
Plants can be grown in opposite beds. Also in the greenhouse, you can equip the beds for the successful cultivation of three crops. You can plant tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants together. The northern side is suitable for cucumbers, the central one for tomatoes, and the southern side for peppers.
Cucumbers and tomatoes in one polycarbonate greenhouse
Many guides for growing different crops in a greenhouse say that growing different crops together is nearly impossible. However, in practice, many gardeners do this and quite successfully. If tomatoes do not tolerate humidity, then experienced gardeners use some tricks to help them.
One trick allows you to monitor the moisture level, which is important for both tomatoes and cucumbers. The use of a hydrogel allows you to reduce the number of waterings. With its help, moisture in the soil can be retained for a long period.
How to use the hydrogel:
- A crumb of hydrogel is poured overnight with water.
- Usually, the hydrogel is introduced into the hole when planting cucumber seedlings.
- Some people dissolve the hydrogel in a solution based on mineral or organic fertilizers.
Watering can be made less frequent with mulching. To do this, after planting cucumbers, the soil is covered with cut grass, which will store moisture for some time. Mulching helps to retain moisture while preventing it from spreading to tomatoes.
Greenhouse temperature for cucumbers and tomatoes
Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse seems very controversial. These crops have different origins and each has its own microclimate in which they will successfully grow and develop. Plants love different temperature regimes, which must be taken into account when deciding to grow them in a single indoor ground.
The optimum air temperature for active growth and development of cucumbers is from 26 to 28 degrees, for tomatoes - from 24 to 25.
At the same time, both cultures do not like the cold at night. Therefore, at night, the temperature in the greenhouse should not drop below 19 degrees. It is important not to allow the temperature to rise to 30 degrees, since the tomatoes may simply die, then that their entire color will fall off.
What cucumbers need:
- They don't need ventilation. They grow well at temperatures from 21 to 22 degrees if they are seedlings, and from 25 to 28 if they are adult plants.
- Tomatoes need frequent and constant ventilation. For active growth, tomatoes need a constant temperature of 22 to 25 degrees.
Tomatoes cannot withstand the lack of airing, because without it, their flowers will not pollinate. Some gardeners who care about cucumbers do not sufficiently ventilate the greenhouses. At the same time, they use a method of shaking pollen from bushes in order to artificially pollinate them. The result of such pollination is not very productive.
Greenhouses of the Krasnodar Territory: growing cucumbers and tomatoes
The compatibility of cucumbers and tomatoes is questionable, but many successfully cope with growing them in the same greenhouse. A common greenhouse is not a sentence if you know how to equip it correctly. To do this, you need to actively water the cucumbers, but so that moisture is not transferred to the tomatoes.
Feeding crops should also take place in different ways - cucumbers need nitrogen, and tomatoes need potassium and phosphorus.
In order to increase the residence time of moisture in the soil, cucumber seeds can be planted in a hole with hydrogel granules. For planting in a greenhouse, you need to choose the best varieties that are resistant to infections and insect attacks. So that the abundant watering of the cucumbers does not violate the microclimate of the tomatoes, they need to be fenced off from each other with a film.
What to look for:
- Apply fertilizers correctly;
- Pay attention to the good choice of the variety;
- Successfully arrange a joint stay;
- Place cucumbers and tomatoes in different beds.
Crop care should be complete, meeting all the needs of both cucumbers and tomatoes. When planting seedlings of both crops, you need to be sure that the winter preparation of the greenhouse for planting has been done correctly. Before winter, all the soil must be renewed or treated with special compounds. Some fumigate greenhouses, and some use biological compounds that do not harm the soil. However, after growing cucumbers and tomatoes, it is better to replace the topsoil completely.
We plant cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse (video)
A general recommendation for those who decide to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse is to place the plants in different beds and fence them off. Tomatoes should be planted closer to the vents so that the abundant and frequent airing does not affect the cucumbers. Planting cucumbers should be carried out in the soil with a hydrogel - then moisture will be retained only in the soil in which the cucumbers grow. Sometimes a business involves growing several crops at once in a greenhouse. In this case, it is very important to provide the proper conditions for each culture.
There are four basic rules to follow when planting and growing a tomato.
1. Plant tomatoes where they can get the most sunlight.
2. Give each bush 15 to 25 ml of moisture weekly. After all, after all, a tomato is 90% water.
3. Allow them to fully mature on the bush. The more a tomato is associated with the bush, the better it will taste. The taste and aroma of a tomato is determined by the balance of sugar and acid content in it.
4. Fertilize the bushes at an early stage of development, and then pause feeding until an ovary is formed. Excess nitrogen fertilization slows down the formation of ovaries. When the ovary is formed and formed, the fertilizers will go to the benefit of the plants. Abundant flowering and the presence of varieties with a complex brush on the site are considered by gardeners to be the key to a good harvest. But often expectations are not met, many flowers fall off without giving an ovary. The thing is that fruit formation largely depends on the quality of pollen and full pollination. To help the plant, mechanical additional pollination is used. This method is the most natural and affordable. It consists in shaking the plants by the stem or directly flowering inflorescences 2-3 times a week from 8 to 13 hours.
In addition, you should be aware that tomatoes stop blushing when the weather is too hot. This is because the final stage of red pigment formation is suppressed when it is too hot. If you remove unripe fruits, then their shelf life increases by an average of two days, but the quality, alas, deteriorates sharply. Brown-green tomatoes are 2-3 times poorer in vitamins, sugars, amino acids; when artificially ripened, they never accumulate nutrients in the same quantities as on the mother plant.
How to grow a high yield of tomatoes
Each gardener can get 30 and even 45 kg of tomatoes per square meter in open field conditions. The technology of growing tomato seedlings is available to most gardeners, it does not require large expenses, and the first ripe fruits can be obtained on June 20-25.
Seed preparation starts at the end of January. First, the seeds must be warmed up at a temperature of 55-60 ° C, then placed in a 3% solution of sodium chloride, mix well. For sowing, use only those seeds that have settled to the bottom, they need to be washed with running water, and then placed in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) for 20 minutes. Then rinse again and dry at room temperature for one hour. After that, the seeds are soaked in a solution of micronutrient fertilizers - a quarter of a tablet per 2.5 liters of water or in an ash extract for 12 hours. Next, the seeds must be hardened - wet seeds wrapped in gauze are kept alternately (for 12 hours) at room temperature and at a temperature of minus 1-2 ° C. Hardening is carried out within 12 days. After that, the seeds are sown in boxes in the first half of February. The soil mixture must be prepared in the summer. It consists of sod land, dung humus and low-lying peat - 1 bucket of each component. The mixture is filled with fertilizers: nitroammiphos - 100 g, double superphosphate - 200 g, potassium magnesium - 100 g and ash from burning tomato tops 1.5 liters. The mixture is saturated with nutrients in the fall, before freezing. The thawed mixture is poured into boxes with a layer of 6-8 cm and seeds are laid out in shallow holes, sprinkled with soil, moistened and covered with foil. The boxes are placed in a warm place with a constant temperature of 25-28 ° C.
Usually shoots appear in 3 days.
In the first 2-2.5 weeks, the seedlings must be illuminated daily for 12-14 hours (200 W per 1 square meter), and when mass shoots appear, the temperature must be reduced to 14-13 ° C within a week in order for the seedlings to get stronger and the root system developed better. Further, the temperature can be increased depending on the degree of illumination. Watering should be done no more than twice a week. After the second true leaf is formed, the seedlings need to be cut into boxes 12 cm deep according to the 5x5 cm scheme, deepening them to the cotyledon leaves. For better survival, immediately after picking, reduce lighting and give full lighting only on the third day. Avoid direct sunlight. After the seedlings have finally taken root, maximum lighting can be given. Duration of illumination should be increased to 14 hours a day with the help of additional illumination. If at the end of March weather conditions do not allow transferring the seedlings to greenhouses, it is necessary to artificially slow down growth - by lowering the temperature to 10-12 ° C, reduce watering, reduce lighting and gradually reduce the temperature to 8 ° C. You can also slow down the growth of plants with a pick. Each pick delays the growth of plants for a week and, moreover, the plants acquire resistance to adverse conditions. To remove the plants from the state of conservation, it is necessary to gradually, within 3 days, increase the temperature and illumination, and after 6 days give top dressing.
Prepare a solution for feeding as follows: 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Pour 100 ml of ash water extract there (1 glass per 1 liter of water). Prepare the ash extract 1 day before feeding. Consumption rate - 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter of boxes.
To grow chunky, unstretched seedlings, you need to adjust the fertilizer ratio in your potting mix. So, when preparing the mixture before picking, it is necessary to add additionally the same amount of superphosphate and ash as was introduced the first time, the amount of nitrogen remained at the same level, bordering on a deficiency. This is a factor in the formation of stocky, powerful seedlings. If a lack of nitrogen is noticeable by the color of the leaves, then nitrogen should be given in the form of foliar feeding - 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water at the rate of 2 liters of solution per 1 square meter of the box area. At the end of March, in the phase of 4 true leaves, the seedlings must be dived a second time, but into the greenhouse. It must be carried out on a quiet day at an air temperature of at least +8 degrees. The soil temperature in the greenhouse by this time should be 15-18 ° C. The greenhouse is stuffed with dry leaves in the fall for less freezing. Now they need to be removed, disinfected with a 5% formalin solution and filled with manure. After the manure has ignited and settled, sprinkle with a layer of ash 3 mm and fill with a layer of soil mixture 15-18 cm thick.
Seedlings are planted in it according to the scheme 10x10 cm.When the seedlings in the greenhouse take root well, it is necessary to spray it with a 0.1% solution of boric acid, and in a day to feed: pour 10 liters of chicken manure infusion into a 12-liter bucket, 100 g of extract from ash, 2.5 g of potassium permanganate, 1.5 g of boric acid. Before feeding the plants, water - 5 liters per 1 square meter with a water temperature of 18 ° C. Top dressing should be carried out at the aisles at the rate of 100 ml of solution for each plant. Before planting seedlings in the ground, it is necessary to regulate the temperature and moisture of the soil. During cold periods, the air temperature can drop significantly. In this case, it is necessary to reliably cover the greenhouse with kraft paper, mats. In open ground, seedlings are planted at the end of April, when buds form on the first cyst. If the weather does not allow, then it is necessary to wait out, but in the morning sprinkle with a solution of boric acid (10 g per 10 l of water) to prevent the buds from falling off.
Prepare the soil before planting in advance: loosen with an iron rake and cover with a dark film. This will provoke the growth of weeds, when they start to grow, it will be easy to destroy them by repeated harrowing. On the eve of this operation, it is necessary to additionally add mineral fertilizers: nitroammophos - 30 g, ammonium sulfate - 20 g, potassium sulfate - 20 g, potassium sulfate - 20 g per 1 sq. M. Then the site should be dug up without turning the layer to a depth of 30 cm.
Planting scheme of the "White filling" variety: between rows located from south to north - 35 cm, in a row between the centers of the holes - 30 cm. There are 4 rows on each bed, the width of the passage between the beds is 50 cm. On one hundred square meters (100 sq. .m.) 1000 plants are placed. Digging holes 30 cm deep.Pour half a liter of fertilizer mixture into each hole, consisting of 1 bucket of sifted humus, half a liter of ash from burning tops of tomatoes and potatoes, half a glass of double superphosphate, half a glass of nitroammophos, 30-40 g of potassium magnesium ... This mixture must be prepared in advance, mix thoroughly.
In addition to the fertilizer mixture, pour in half a liter of chicken manure solution and 2 liters of water. When the water is absorbed, mix the soil with the fertilizer. Plant seedlings with a large clod of earth in a doughy mass. Deepen the cotyledonous leaves. After 1 hour, water - 1 liter of water for each plant. When a four-row bed is planted, place arcs of thick wire (8-10 mm in diameter) 60 cm apart. Fasten arcs with a cord in 4 rows (above each row). Just in case of bad weather, prepare a double layer of polyethylene film with a lining of kraft paper between them (3 layers).
Planting seedlings in a permanent place is best done in cloudy, wet weather. If the weather is sunny, then early in the morning or in the evening. As soon as the plants take root in a new place, at the beginning of flowering, it is necessary to spray it again with a 0.1% solution of boric acid.
If there are prolonged rains in the flowering phase, then it is better to cover the beds with arches with a film.
All plants must be formed into one stem with three inflorescences. Remove unnecessary stepchildren until a crop is formed on the last inflorescence, and then engrave - cut off the top. For 20-30 days before the fruit ripens, root feeding through mulching layers: add half a liter of ash and a glass of double superphosphate to each bucket of humus. The predominance of phosphorus and potassium in the soil over nitrogen accelerates the ripening of fruits. Simultaneously with the removal of the stepsons, it is necessary to carry out a garter with ribbons to the arcs and the cord, which the arcs are connected with. This method eliminates the tie to the peg and reduces the stress on the plants.
And here is a link to growing different vegetables Growing vegetables in the window that opens, click \ Culture \
Plants bearing fruit in June and July almost always leave phytophthora. As a preventive measure, you can spray the plants with an infusion of garlic: insist 200 g of crushed cloves in 1 bucket of water, tightly closing it. Spray every 10-15 days starting from the last days of July.
Special mention should be made of such a high-yielding variety as "De-Barao". In shape, the fruits resemble a hen's egg, of high taste. Filmed in the fall, they can be stored until January. An exclusive feature of the variety is a high yield per unit area (up to 45 kg per 1 sq. M.), Cold resistance, low susceptibility to diseases, including late blight.
The De-Barao variety grows well and bears fruit in an apartment environment. Vegetable growers who have tested many varieties of tomatoes for decades have come to the conclusion that De Barao is the best tomato variety. Cultivation of the De-Barao variety has its own characteristics. It requires a more nutritious potting mix for both seedlings and wells. The seedling mixture consists of two parts of horse manure humus and one part of sod land. To this mass add 10% sand, half a liter of ash and half a glass of double superphosphate per bucket of mixture. The soil mixture must be prepared in September so that it can freeze well in winter. At the end of January, the mixture is thawed, at the beginning of February - processing and hardening of seeds, then sowing is carried out. The first pick at the stage of two true leaves is carried out in an apartment, the second - in a greenhouse in early April - in a phase of 3-4 true leaves. From May 2 to May 10, seedlings are planted in open ground. Planting pits are made with a volume of 10 m. 3 liters of nutrient mixture are poured into each of them (half a liter of wood ash, half a glass of superphosphate, half a glass of nitroammophos, 50 g of potassium magnesium are poured into each bucket of humus), and when the nutrient mixture is absorbed, add another 3 liters of water. Stir the mixture with the soil and plant the seedlings, deepening them in cotyledonous leaves. An hour after planting, water each plant with 1.5 liters of water, mulch with humus, this will save you from the need to loosen the soil. During the entire growing season, additional feeding is not required - the plants have a large supply of root food. To speed up the ripening process, you can add half a liter of ash and a glass of double superphosphate for every 10 liters to humus at the last mulching. Plants are formed into three stems and placed in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 70 cm between plants. The maximum plant height after pinching should be up to 2 meters.
How to get 50-60 tomatoes from each bush
One bush of tomatoes can be grown on two roots - and space is saved, and the harvest will be plentiful. Thus, you can get up to 50-60 good large tomatoes from each bush. In this case, the variety does not matter.
For this, seeds are planted in one container close to each other - at a distance of no more than 1 cm.When the seedlings grow up and the thickness of the stem becomes large enough, with a sharp razor, remove the top layer of the stems of two neighboring plants from the side which they face each other, so that the cambium was exposed. The length of the incision is 2-3 centimeters. After that, the plants are tilted towards each other so that the exposed sections of the stems are combined, and this place is tightly wrapped with a ribbon of film about 1 cm wide. Then such plants are grown as ordinary seedlings.
Shortly before planting seedlings in the ground, in the one of the plants that has developed worse, pinch the top - 3-5 cm are left above the cut.The plant transplanted into the ground develops rapidly, since it now has a powerful root system. When it gets stronger, the film is carefully removed.
Caring for a double bush is different in that it must be watered and fed more often and more abundantly, given the presence of two roots. When planting, they put a reliable support, because the bush turns out to be much larger than usual.
How to grow tomatoes by May without a greenhouse and without seedlings
In the autumn, just before the frost, when the fruiting of tomatoes stops, tear off several shoots from the bushes you like (of any varieties) and put them in water for 5-6 days (the plucked shoots should be put into the water immediately or with a minimum period of time, otherwise you will not get a positive result ). After the specified time, the shoots will give roots, after which you can transplant them into the ground or in plastic bags, or in flower pots. During the winter, the tomato bushes will stretch out, and from each of them you will need to break off the top and also put in water, which, in turn, will give roots, after which they need to be planted. Around April, your tomatoes will bloom, and in May they will already bear red fruits.
Using this method, tomatoes can be grown even in areas where the warm summers are very short.
Growing tomato according to Maslov
(up to 70 kg per plant)
After observing the development of tomato plants for many years, I came to the conclusion that in order to ensure the filling of a large number of fruits, a strong root system is needed.
I tried to enlarge it in two ways. The first is to plant seedlings not vertically, as is usually done, but lying down. In a previously prepared furrow I put not only the root, but 2/3 of the stem, having previously removed the leaves from this part. I fall asleep with a layer of soil of 10-12 cm. I lay the plant strictly from south to north, so that as it grows, it stretches towards the sun, straightens and grows vertically. Roots are quickly formed on the buried part of the stem, which are included in the general nutrition system (Fig. 1). Moreover, in terms of their size and effectiveness, these roots are several times superior to the main one.
Rice. 1. This method of planting tomatoes is suitable for large land areas.
Now about the second method. It is even simpler and accessible to any gardener. I suggest not removing some stepsons on tomato plants, but using them to make the root system more powerful. How? Very simple. The first side shoots - I do not remove my stepsons, but I let them grow longer. I tear off the leaves from them, bend them to the ground and cover them with a layer of soil 10-12 cm (Fig. 2). The dug-in stepchildren grow quickly. After a month, it is difficult to distinguish them from the main plant both in height and in the number of ripening fruits. It is characteristic that abundant fruiting begins in the immediate vicinity of the ground.
Rice. 2. On the left - plants with rooted stepchildren. On the right is the usual landing method.
- A passing question. Many readers ask: is it possible to use this method if tomato seedlings have already been planted in the ground using the usual method?
Not being able to get overgrown seedlings at home so that it has a thick stem, I plant it vertically in the ground of an unheated greenhouse. For some time I let it grow, get stronger, and then, almost at the stage of the beginning of fruiting, I transplant it in my own way, lying down. Note that tomato plants are not only not afraid of frequent transplants, but, on the contrary, in my opinion, they love them. After each transplant, the plants root even better, gain strength very quickly, grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
- Our readers are interested in the rationale for your method.
Tomatoes are, of course, not bread, not potatoes or meat. But man needs them. They are loved both fresh and canned, therefore significant areas are allocated for their cultivation. If the yield of tomatoes is sharply increased, then you can have this vegetable in the required quantities and at the same time free up significant areas for growing other crops.
To introduce a new method, no additional material costs are required, you just need to understand the nature of the tomato plant. Unfortunately, plants cannot speak. If the tomato spoke, he would tell that, having intervened in the life of the plant, the person did not think everything through to the end. With the help of ropes, stakes, he made the plant grow vertically so that it took up a smaller area. Well, that's not bad. But if a cucumber or grapes can grow well and bear fruit abundantly, being planted vertically, while holding the plant itself and its numerous fruits due to the fact that the wildlife itself provided for this purpose the so-called "mustache", then the tomato plant of such It has no "mustache", and therefore is not suitable for vertical cultivation. The tomato plant always strives for the ground in order to heal a normal life, determined by its nature, but it is not allowed to do this by the ropes on which the plant is suspended. It does not die, it grows and even bears fruit, taking care of the offspring.
- But even in such a state, which you think, is abnormal for tomatoes, gardeners get quite good results.
Yes, this is so, but the methods I offer allow you to get a harvest many times greater.
How to increase frost resistance in tomatoes
The weather in Transbaikalia is also very uncomfortable, frosts here can happen at the end of June and again make themselves felt in August. But here, too, skill and sharpness help. So, V. Ya. Vtorushin from Chita grows each tomato stem on two root systems. To do this, he puts two pots with seedlings next to each other. In the upper third of the stems, he carefully cuts the skin and connects the plants with braid (Fig. 3). It turns out like grafting one stem to another. Before planting the seedlings, the braid is removed, the weaker stem is cut off above the graft. It turns out "one plant on two roots." Planting plants on a ridge after recurrent frosts have passed. The bush does not get sick and grows smoothly. The planting holes fall asleep gradually, 5 cm per week. During the period of increased growth and fruiting, Vladimir Yakovlevich gives top dressing from nitrogen and potash fertilizers, and in the last dressing he pours a glass of wood ash under each bush. Combine all dressing by irrigation with water heated in the sun. Pours it at the root, trying not to wet the plant itself. When the plants are sufficiently huddled, the gardener switches to irrigation irrigation ditches, that is, he hides the bushes as high as possible, leaving narrow grooves between them, where he pours water. After watering, you do not need to loosen the soil, since it remains loose in the main root zone, and the water flows along the grooves. By the time the fruits ripen, the lower layer of leaves must be removed in order to improve air exchange inside the bush. This is necessary to prevent fungal diseases. Removing the lower leaves does not affect the yield. If, nevertheless, a fungal disease of tomatoes is detected, then the gardener fights against it with the help of copper sulfate or an extract from wood ash (10 g of ash per liter of water). Watering is carried out twice.
Rice. 3. So connect the two stems to get the graft.
Plants on two roots bear fruit earlier than usual. Race - three weeks! Since August, residents of Chita begin to grow tomatoes in rooms.
How to get large fruits of tomatoes
Mulching greatly contributes to the growth of tomatoes, reduces labor costs for watering and loosening.
For mulching the soil, you can use rotted manure or peat. Mulch immediately after planting seedlings and before watering and rains have time to compact the soil. Mulching is even more important for bush tomatoes than for tall ones. The fruits of bush tomatoes often come into contact with the soil or become contaminated with it during heavy rainfall. Chopped straw mulch prevents this better than manure or peat.
Tomatoes grow well on any warm, humus-rich, medium-sized soil that has not been fertilized with fresh manure and always in open sunny areas. Although tomatoes do well on soils that have recently been fertilized with manure, it is better to use plots that have not received manure. You should not rush to add lime. Tomatoes are very sensitive to chlorine. Although tomatoes do not suffer from soil fatigue and therefore they can be grown in the same place for several years, the main thing is that the soil is not infected with late blight.
Regular feeding allows you to get very large tomato fruits. Top dressing begins two weeks after planting the seedlings. To prevent plants from forming a large vegetative mass without benefit, apply a complete fertilizer with a ratio of basic nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) 1: 1: 1. The easiest way to apply top dressing is superficially dry. Fertilizers are evenly scattered between the plants on the mulch, and when watering they dissolve it, thus delivering it to the roots. Top dressing is repeated every two weeks until mid-August. Each time, no more than 20 g of fertilizer is applied per 1 square meter.
In tall tomatoes, stepchildren should be removed regularly and the plants should be tied to a support. The stepsons do not remove with a knife, but with their fingers; this avoids damage to the main shoot. Stepsons develop at the junction of the leaf with the main stem. When removing the stepsons, the sheet must not be damaged either. The stepsons are removed as soon as they can be grasped with their fingers. To tie the stem to the support, use fairly wide materials (tape, twine), because thin threads and ropes cut through the stems. When tying, the possible thickening of the stem is taken into account and therefore not tied too tight.
At the end of August, the tops of the main shoots are removed, since the fruits that develop later will no longer have time to ripen, but will only take away the nutrients from the already formed fruits.
Pinching the top of the plant should be over the brush, the flowers of which have already opened. It is necessary to leave at least one more leaf above this brush, otherwise the fruits will not be tied on it. Pinching can speed up the development of the fruits remaining on the plant. After pinching, you need to continue to monitor so that stepsons do not appear.
Rot of tops and fruits (late blight) is a very dangerous disease of tomatoes, most often it appears in a rainy summer. The leaves are covered with brown spots and die off. Brown and even black spots form on the fruits, and they rot and crack. Affected fruits become poisonous and inedible. Late blight can easily spread to potatoes.
Prevention measures are very simple: first of all, tomatoes should be planted in warm, sunny, open, well-ventilated areas. It is advisable to spray the plants with copper-containing preparations for preventive purposes, but the fruits after such treatment must be washed before use. Affected plants must be removed and burned immediately.
Growing tomatoes in the open field. A crop guarantee is, first of all, high-quality seeds. Seeds of tomato varieties Roma, Diablo, Ikarus, Profitable business, Elko F1, Caspar F1, Express F1, Kamila F1, President F1, Ronco F1, Rio Grande, Rio Fuego, unlike domestic seeds, do not require pre-sowing treatment. , since the seeds are pickled and treated with pesticides, which provides optimal conditions for the germination of the seed, protects it at the first stages of development from diseases and pests. To obtain early production, seedlings in open ground should be planted when the plants have their first inflorescence. These are approximately 65-70 days of age seedlings. Therefore, the seeds must be sown at such times: in Polesie and in the forest-steppe - the end of February, in the Steppe - mid-February, and in the western regions - the beginning of March. For this purpose, the varieties Roma, Diablo, Ikarus, Rio Grande, Rio Fuego as well as hybrids Elko F1, Caspar F1, Express F1, Camila F1, President F1 are suitable. Tomatoes for later consumption are Profitable Business, Ronko F1. Seeds are sown in boxes with pre-prepared soil mixture. It should be easily permeable to air and at the same time rich in batteries. To do this, mix sand, turf soil and humus in a ratio of 1: 1: 2. Sowing is carried out to a depth of 1.5-2.0 cm, the distance between the rows is 5 cm, in the row between the seeds - 2-3 cm. The seeds are carefully sown, watered with warm rainwater. In order to create optimal conditions for seed germination, the boxes are covered with transparent plastic wrap. After sowing the seeds, it is necessary to try to maintain the soil temperature at 23-25, and the air temperature at 23-250C. Some amateur vegetable growers very often make a mistake: they rearrange boxes with seeds sown in them to a warm place in a room, a central heating battery, a stove - and forget about them. At this time, seedlings appear, the plants, without the receipt of light, stretch out, lay out. Therefore, when the first shoots appear, the plants should be placed closer to the light, remove the film and, if possible, reduce the growing temperature for a week: at night 10-12 0С, and in the daytime 15-160С. This will contribute to the intensive growth of the root system and a decrease in the growth of the aerial part of the plants. After a week, the growing temperature should be raised: up to 20-22 0C and 12-140C at night. When the first true leaf appears, it is necessary to pick the seedlings. When picking, the plants are transplanted into the ground (5 parts of humus and 1 part of sod soil). For 1 bucket of soil, you need to add the following mineral fertilizers: 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. We remind you that one tablespoon contains: 12 g of ammonium nitrate or 18 g of granular superphosphate, 19 g of potassium sulfate. Plants are transplanted into peat-humus pots with a diameter of 7-10 cm. You can also plant plants in paper or film pots made with your own hands. If there are no pots, you can use large boxes, up to 15 cm deep.The planting pattern in the box should be 10x10 cm.The plant is carefully dug from the soil, one-third of the main root is split off, planted in prepared soil so that the cotyledons are placed on the soil surface ... Gently tamp the soil around the plant with your fingers. Watered with water at room temperature and brought in a dark place for 2 days, which will contribute to better survival of the plants. A week after the dive, the first feeding of the plants is carried out, and 10-14 days after it, the next one. For this, 6-8 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate and 25-35 g of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. After each feeding, the plants should be thoroughly watered with warm water. Irrigation water will wash away the remnants of mineral fertilizers that can cause plant burns. During cultivation, the plant must be periodically watered with warm water. In this case, you should try to irrigate only the soil so that moisture does not get on the plants. Twice a week, the seedlings should be turned in different directions towards the light. When growing seedlings in boxes, 10-14 days before planting seedlings in the middle of the rows, cut the soil with a knife to a depth of 10-12 cm for better flying around the soil roots. Plants are hardened two weeks before planting. For this purpose, watering is stopped, boxes and pots with seedlings are taken out into the fresh air, starting from 2-3 hours a day, gradually increasing the period of stay in the fresh air, and at the end of the hardening period, the plants should be outdoors around the clock. A few days before planting in open ground, the plants are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. To prepare 10 liters of a solution in 9 liters of water, 100 g of quicklime is quenched, and 100 g of copper sulfate is dissolved in 1 liter. A solution of copper sulfate, with continuous stirring, is poured into the lime solution. To check the correctness of preparation, a metal nail should be placed in the solution for 10-15 minutes. If there are glimmers of copper on the nail, add some quicklime. The consumption rate of the solution is 5 liters per 100 sq. m area. Planting seedlings. The tomato is a light and thermophilic culture, therefore it is necessary to allocate the best places for it in your garden. Tomatoes are planted after crops, under which fresh manure was introduced: cabbage, cucumbers, sweet corn. Tomatoes cannot be grown after nightshades (peppers, eggplants, potatoes). Tomatoes return to the same place of cultivation no earlier than 3-4 years. Soil preparation begins by collecting the remains of the previous culture. In autumn, the soil is dug up or plowed to a depth of 25-27 cm with the simultaneous introduction of 300-500 kg / 100 sq. m of humus, 25-30 kg / 100 sq. m of superphosphate, 25-30 kg / 100 sq. m of potassium sulfate. It is not recommended to apply fresh manure under tomatoes, since it contains a lot of nitrogen, an excess of which will lead to increased growth of the vegetative mass and a decrease in the number of flowers. In the spring, at the first opportunity to go into the field, you should close the moisture by harrowing with the simultaneous introduction of ammonium nitrate: 2-3 kg / 100 sq. m. Since ammonium nitrate is an easily soluble fertilizer, during the autumn-spring period it can, together with rainwater, be washed out from the soil ball accessible to the root system of plants. Tomato seedlings should be planted when the threat of spring frosts has passed: in the Steppe, as a rule, from April 20-30, in the Forest-Steppe - from May 1-15, in Polesie - from May 5-20. Before sampling, the plant must be well watered. When planting plants, it is necessary to avoid direct sunlight on them. Seedlings of varieties Roma, Diablo, Ikarus, Rio Grande, Rio Fuego (if the seedling method of growing is used), hybrids Elko F1, Caspar F1, Express F1, Camila F1, President F1, 5-7 days after that - Profitable case, Ronko F1. The distance between the rows should be 70-80 cm, and between the plants in a row depends on the hybrid: seedlings of Roma, Diablo, Rio Grande, Rio Fuego are planted 350-370 plants per 1 hundred square meters, Ikarus, Elko F1, Kaspar F1, Express F1, Kamila F1, President F1 - 300-350 plants, Profitable business, Ronko F1 - 230-250 plants. If the seedlings are overgrown, they are planted slightly obliquely. 1-2 days after planting the seedlings, the planting is checked, replacing the dead plants with new plants from the reserve. It is not recommended to water the soil after planting, as water will lower the temperature of the soil, which will negatively affect the development of the root system and will contribute to the formation of a soil crust. Therefore, it is best to add 0.5 L of water to each well at the time of planting. After 7-10 days, the first loosening of the row spacings is carried out with the simultaneous removal of weeds. In total, 5-6 loosening is carried out per season, carrying out the latter before closing the rows. Loosening is carried out after rains and watering. Hilling the lower part of the plants with moist soil promotes the formation of additional roots, which improves the supply of nutrients, and increases the resistance of plants to aging. Therefore, they carry out 2 hilling, if possible, combining them with loosening the row spacings. The first hilling is carried out 15-20 days after transplanting. The second is 20-30 days after the first. A prerequisite for a good harvest is sufficient mineral nutrition for the plants. After all, a plant for its growth and development requires not only light energy, moisture, but also nutrients. For this purpose, 2-3 plant feeding is carried out. Top dressing should be combined with watering. The first feeding is carried out during the mass flowering of 1 bunch of a plant. To do this, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate are dissolved in 10 l of water. For 1 sq. m use 5-6 liters of working solution. After feeding, the plants are watered. The second feeding is carried out during the mass filling of fruits. For 10 liters of water, 15 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate are used. The consumption rate of the solution is 5-6 l / sq. m. When watering, water so that the plants are dry and the soil is moist. Since wet plants are susceptible to disease, plants should be watered infrequently, but at increased rates. A particularly large amount of moisture is required during flowering and filling. The irrigation rate during this period can be up to 5 liters of water per 1 sq. m. An important element in the cultivation of tomatoes is the fight against diseases and pests. In recent years, late blight has been a real natural disaster for tomatoes. At the first detection of signs of this disease, plants should be immediately treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid or 0.4-0.5% solution of chemical preparations: copper oxychloride or cuprozan (4-5 grams of the drug per 1 liter of water). Treatments should be carried out every 10 days, stopping 20 days before harvest. To control pests (Colorado potato beetle, scoops), plants should be sprayed with 0.04% decis solution, 2.5% emulsion concentrate or other similar preparations. By following Cowell®'s advice, you can grow an extraordinary tomato crop that you and your family will truly enjoy. How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes