The tree is environmentally friendly natural material, therefore, they build houses and baths from it, make furniture, windows, doors and household appliances in the form door handles, cutting boards and various household items. But since wood has the ability to absorb moisture, it cracks and dries over time. As a result wood product spoils.
To avoid such troubles, there are various varnishes and impregnations specially for protecting wood. Many of them are toxic and can harm humans. An excellent harmless waterproofing substance is linseed oil, which has been widely used for the processing of wooden products for a long time.
Benefits and properties of flaxseed oil
Linseed oil can be used to treat any wood surface, both outside and inside the premises. It is used for impregnation wooden ceilings, facades, platbands, doorways, decorative items, knife handles, elements of weapons and furniture and tableware made of wood.
Oil treatment of wood has the following advantages:
The main advantage of flaxseed oil is that it is pure natural product, which is not capable of causing harm to human health.
In the process of wood processing, the oil components thicken under the influence of heat, light and oxygen. The result is a semi-solid mass with excellent protective properties. The more linolenic and linoleic acids in the oil, the higher its solidification ability.
After processing, the wooden product must dry for 2-3 weeks... To speed up this process, you can use:
- with tar;
- wax;
- turpentine.
It should be remembered that turpentine is a toxic substance and, in contact with the skin, can cause thermal burns. In addition, some people may have an allergic reaction to it. Tar obtained by dry distillation of wood is the same turpentine, however, it is less toxic. The wax is completely safe for humans, so it is better to use it. Before using the wax should be heated in a water bath and mix with butter. Such a composition will dry out faster and will have excellent water-repellent properties.
Do-it-yourself linseed oil impregnation of wood
You can buy flax oil at any construction market or online store. average cost product per liter - about 720 rubles. For one coat for one square meter the product will need from 100 to 150 grams of oil.
The main condition for processing is that the wooden surface should not be wet or wet. In wood should contain no more than 14% moisture... Old and painted surfaces and products should be cleaned of paint and varnish, residual debris and dust. You cannot wipe them with a wet rag, since the tree will immediately absorb moisture. The objects to be treated are cleaned with sandpaper and freed from wood dust.
The air humidity in the room where the wood will be processed must be at least 70%. Outdoor work should be carried out in sunny weather.
There are two impregnation methods - rubbing in and soaking.
Rubbing method
It is the most common wood surface treatment method that is produced with a cloth napkin and fine sandpaper. This procedure is carried out three to four times. In this case, the product must dry well between each treatment. For which it may take at least a day.
This process is quite long, but the result is excellent. The liquid is applied to the surface with a rag. At the final stage, the wooden product is sanded with the same rag. In this way, large areas can be processed.
If the surface will be painted in the future, then it can be impregnated paint brush or with a brush. In this case, linseed oil is used, which contains linseed oil.
For the first time, the surface of the product is generously lubricated with a brush. There is no need to try to rub the liquid inside. After all planes have been coated with oil, fine sandpaper or a cotton, linen or wool rag go to the rubbing process... Depending on the porosity of the structure, rubbing the oil into a small area can take from a few seconds to several minutes. Since the material is being ground at the same time, the longer the rubbing process, the better quality work.
When rubbing in, it should be borne in mind that the oil should not be removed from the surface, but rubbed into the product. You need to work until the surface is dry. When rubbing in the impregnation, the first and second time can be used sandpaper... At the final stage, use only a napkin made of natural material. In this case, the surface will look much more beautiful.
Soaking method
In this way, small wooden products are processed, which dive for two or three days into a container filled with oil. Then they are up mirror shine sanded with a soft cloth.
To make the drying process go faster, you can use natural linseed oil.
Processing of houses from logs and beams
The popularity of linseed oil treatment of log cabins and beams is explained by its property to penetrate deep into the surface of the tree. Flax oil can be impregnated with trees of any species with different ways processing.
After processing with linseed oil, a protective film does not form on the surface of the material, but the timber or wood will become more durable and waterproof. Log houses are impregnated with special compounds with various additives that enhance the protective properties of the main ingredient. Most often, natural wax is used as an additive. To reduce the cost of the composition with which large surfaces will be treated, polyurethane is used.
Stages of work:
Heated oil and strong rubbing movements will provide the maximum depth of wood impregnation.
Despite the fact that hardware stores offer a large number of mineral and synthetic materials for the treatment of wood surfaces, oil impregnations remain relevant to this day. This environmentally clean material It is widely used for processing various wood products that can be found in every home.
One of the very first building materials in the history of mankind is wood. Houses were built from it, household items and furniture were made - and all thanks to its strength, ecological cleanliness and warmth. Despite all its advantages, wood also needs protection.
How to protect wood surfaces?
Wood is a material capable of absorbing water in large quantities. Hydrophilicity causes drying, cracking and deterioration of the material. Of course, small objects made of wood are easier to replace than to protect, but in the case of various designs only the processing of wood products can help.
For this purpose, apply various substances, which not only prevent the penetration of moisture into the structure of the material, but also protect it from the harmful effects of environmental factors.
Flaxseed oil properties
Processing wood with linseed oil allows you to restore the appearance of the material, increases its service life and makes it water and dirt repellent. You can tint the liquid to any shade by adding special pigments.
For wood, it emphasizes its natural shade, highlighting texture and relief, while protecting against rot, mold and mildew. After processing, the products continue to breathe, despite the received water repellency... In addition, the oil improves the wood's resistance to drying, flaking, discoloration and cracking.
The impregnation with linseed oil does not form a dense film on the surface of the products, which is typical for many other protective substances. The tool penetrates directly into the structure of the material, endowing it with certain properties. The resulting coating is absolutely safe for humans and does not harm health.
Benefits of flaxseed oil
V building stores today you can find a wide range of protective substances and liquids, but many of them can be harmful to human health. Linseed oil is considered one of the best protective materials. For a tree it is great option because the product is not only safe, but also has a strong waterproofing effect. Flaxseed oil has the following benefits:
- Clogging of the smallest pores in wood.
- Environmental friendliness and safety.
- Water repellent properties.
- Improving the appearance of the treated surface.
Components that make up linseed oil, under the influence of certain factors environment undergo a polymerization process. This increases the hardness and viscosity of the oil. Protective properties and the curing ability directly depend on the amount of glycerides of acids contained - linoleic and linolenic.
After the wood is covered with a layer of oil, it is left to dry completely so that the impregnation can gain maximum properties. It takes about 2-3 weeks to completely dry. You can speed up this process with wax, tar or turpentine.
When working with turpentine, safety precautions must be observed, since it is a toxic substance and can cause an allergic reaction. Direct contact with unprotected skin can cause thermal burns.
Tar - a product of dry distillation of wood, is, in fact, the same turpentine, only less toxic. The best option is to use regular wax. It is dissolved in a water bath and mixed with linseed oil, which not only speeds up the drying process of the coating, but also increases its water-repellent properties.
Coating a tree with linseed oil at home
To impregnate wood products, it is enough to purchase paint and varnish material in any specialized store, in this case - linseed oil. If you plan to use varnish, then it is preheated.
The mixture of oil and wax does not need to be brought to a boil: this can damage the surface of the wood and, if handled carelessly, cause burns. With hands or a foam sponge, the composition is applied to the surface in several layers, after which it is left to dry completely for several days.
Often they resort to full impregnation of wood - they lower it into a container with linseed oil and keep it for several hours. The appearance of air bubbles on the surface of the liquid indicates that the impregnation process has begun.
Linseed oil for wood is perfectly absorbed. For this reason, after the end of processing, no traces remain on the surface of the products, but at the same time the material acquires increased strength and resistance to wear. Wooden windows are often covered with such a composition, since it protects them from moisture, mildew and mold, which can lead to damage to the product and its rotting.
Any wood surface can be treated with protective agents. Linseed oil does not contain artificial or harmful components, so it can be applied to items such as furniture, dishes, children's toys, floor and ceiling coverings, and wooden windows.
The main condition for processing is a necessarily dried surface. The moisture content in wood must not exceed 14%. With old wood before impregnation, the paint and varnish must be removed, after which the surface is cleaned from debris, dirt and dust. You cannot wipe it with a wet cloth - the moisture will be absorbed immediately. Then the wood is cleaned with sandpaper and the resulting dust is swept away. The minimum humidity in the room in which the work will be carried out must be 70%. It is best to carry out the procedure outdoors in sunny warm weather.
Linseed oil (for wood) is applied several times in a thin layer. Those products that are exposed to frequent use are processed several times a year, which can significantly extend their service life. For all other wooden objects, the procedure can be carried out once every several years. It is not worth treating the surface with oil if it has already been treated with paint or varnish.
The amount of oil applied at one time depends on the texture of the surface and the thickness of the wood. Most thin layer freezes in 24 hours. If necessary, the impregnation is repeated several times.
Oil is applied using a regular brush or special foam sponges. All tools at the end of work are kept in cold water... The rest of the oil is stored in a cool, dark place at a temperature not exceeding 0 ° C.
Better protection wooden surface guarantees oily wax. It is based on linseed oil and bean wax, which gives the surface a shine and changes its shade. It is impregnated with light types of wood, including valuable ones, from which stairs, windows, furniture, doors, floor coverings are made.
Pure linseed oil is mainly applied to products that are used outdoors, since it only in its pure and concentrated form has the necessary water and dirt repellent properties. For this reason, this substance is often used to treat the walls of wooden buildings.
Flaxseed oil for wood is considered one of the most effective, inexpensive and versatile protective agents. The impregnation process takes a long time, but the end result is well worth the time.
There are two main ways of treating wood with linseed oil - soaking and rubbing.
Method one: rubbing
Fine-grained sandpaper is moistened in drying oil or oil and rubbed with it along the grain of the wood. A similar procedure is carried out three to four times with a break of 24-48 hours, necessary for the surface to dry. V last time sandpaper is replaced with a regular oiled rag or soft cloth... This method of processing is used mainly when impregnating products. large area.
Method two: soaking
It is used for processing small objects made of wood - knife handles, children's toys, handicrafts. The product is completely immersed in linseed oil for several days, after which it is wiped with a soft cloth and dried. The wood is impregnated with oil for several weeks due to its extremely slow polymerization.
There are two ways to speed up the drying process:
- Add desiccants to the oil - substances that accelerate polymerization.
- Replace it with drying oil.
In principle, drying oil is the same oil, only it contains metal oxides. The duration of the wood processing process is explained by the fact that natural composition The substance contains a large amount of linoleic acid, which prevents it from hardening.
Desiccants, in turn, are hardeners that are added to most paints and varnishes. They are sold in ordinary hardware stores.
Why is wood treated with linseed oil?
- Impregnation protects products much better than varnishing. In the second case, all dents and scratches remain on the surface, which reduce the characteristics of the composition due to the ingress of water into the formed cracks.
- The oil gives the wood surface a soft sheen that does not fade over time.
- Preservation of the original texture of the object and its pleasant texture.
- Oil impregnation of wood helps to protect it from decay and moisture by clogging the smallest pores.
The process of such processing is quite long, but the end result is worth the time spent. By the way, linseed oil can be replaced with hemp oil - the effect is similar.
As already mentioned, it is better not to use varnish - over time, such a coating begins to crack, the wood absorbs water and begins to deteriorate and swell. Linseed oil penetrates into the structure of the material, preventing cracking and moisture absorption. Such a coating retains an attractive appearance of the product for a long time.
Technical oil
For wood processing, not only food, but also industrial flaxseed oil is used. The natural material forms on the surface a thin and durable, easily polymerized film that protects against pests, moisture and corrosion. For this reason, linseed oil is so widespread and used in various spheres of human activity, from bluing metals to creating tools for artists.
Application area
In the construction industry, linseed oil is used as a base for the creation of drying oil. In many of its characteristics, it is significantly superior to substances developed by chemical synthesis, while maintaining its safe properties.
In construction, linseed oil is used for impregnation and processing various products and buildings made of wood - baths, saunas, log cabins. The formed coating protects the surface from moisture penetration, does not allow rotting, deformation under the influence high temperatures and the appearance of mold and mildew.
When erecting a bathhouse, before the surface of the wood is covered with paints and varnishes, it is thoroughly impregnated with technical linseed oil. This allows you to protect the blockhouse from all sides and extend its service life several times.
Linseed oil is widely used in art, especially in painting, as a solvent for varnishes and oil-based paints. In addition, it is used to cleanse brushes. The main difference between oil and turpentine and solvent used for similar purposes is affordable price and the absence of an unpleasant odor.
Features of flaxseed oil
Only refined linseed oil is used to cover the wood. The cleaning process allows you to obtain a composition that dries quickly and does not undergo yellowing on the surface of the products. If non-polymerizable acids are removed from the oil, it forms a stronger film on the wood. Purified by hand cold pressed, it has good properties - it dries quickly, is thicker in comparison with analogues and practically does not turn yellow, especially if it was kept in the sun.
Linseed oil is sold in pharmacies, construction and hardware stores, and in the latter, often with special additives. It is better not to use food grade - it takes too long to polymerize and does not have the necessary qualities. Its feature, which is attributed to both minuses and pluses, is the change in the shade of the wood to a darker one, which, however, furniture makers like to use.
To wooden products served for many years, they need to be protected from the appearance of fungus and insects. This is the challenge facing the craftsmen who make furniture from wood.
Wood oil is increasingly being used for this purpose. for internal works
- a time-tested method.
In contact with
Impregnating oils
The best protective material is coal oil, which has a characteristic phenolic odor, which makes it impossible to use it at home. Therefore, it is used for cleaning railway sleepers. For interior work use available oils that have a pleasant smell.
Wood oil, what it is? For a long time, impregnating oils have been used to impregnate wood in order to increase its durability. They possess deep penetration and antiseptic properties, making the wood surface elastic.
The mixtures protect against the appearance of bugs, while the pores of the wood are not clogged, the wood continues to "breathe". An important factor is that the formulations are natural, environmentally friendly product, able to adjust the moisture content of the tree.
The most common wood oils for interior use are:
- teak;
- linseed;
- tung;
- tar.
Positive characteristics and disadvantages
There are many advantages in use:
- natural material;
- ease of use;
- environmentally friendly;
- after impregnation, the surfaces acquire an attractive appearance;
- the possibility of quick restoration;
- availability.
Thanks to these properties oil impregnation used for the treatment of surfaces and furniture made of expensive and exotic wood species, wooden houses
exposed to constant moisture.
But have oil impregnation is and negative sides which should be mentioned:
- Demanding and complexity in care, regardless of the surfaces on which the composition is applied. To type of products remains attractive, it is recommended to apply the compound and polish every four months.
- Products treated with oil, are not resistant to grease contamination. The stains show through, and they can only be removed by re-processing.
Positive much more sides so they have remained popular for a long time.
Impregnating compounds and their properties
To understand what impregnation for wood coating use it yourself for processing wood, we will analyze the most popular compositions in detail.
Teak
Multifunctional composition, which can be used for both external treatments and indoor works. They are protected by:
- ceilings and floors;
- stair railings;
- decor elements;
- gazebos;
- figurines in the garden;
- facades;
- garden furniture and so on.
Teak impregnation ideal for mahogany, oak, beech and other exotic species . This squad has no connection with there is no tree of the same name. The mixture consists of linseed and tung oils, diluted with turpentine, and is an environmentally friendly product.
Advice! Do not dilute teak oil! Just stir it before use. In addition, it protects wood, so it can be used in damp rooms.
Linseed
Rightfully recognized the best and reasonably inexpensive composition for impregnation of wooden products. High waterproofing performance allows the use of impregnation for wood processing, even on external surfaces. They are often decorated with facades. wooden buildings, garden furniture, gazebos. Linen impregnation is appreciated when processing interior items; when applied, it reveals the structure of wood. Machined plane becomes waterproof - the tree is preserved.
Linolenic and linoleic acids contribute to the thickening of the composition under the influence of low temperatures - this should be taken into account when processing external coatings.
Important! Linen impregnation for wood is a long-drying compound. If you do not add turpentine or tar to it, then the process can last three weeks.
Tungovoye
Composition that used for impregnation materials made of wood in antiquity. Protects against bugs, water, rot and fungus. Our ancestors impregnated with tung oil not only floors, furniture, ceiling surfaces
and platbands, but also dishes.
Before using tung impregnation mixed and applied at t +15 degrees. At low temperatures Tikkurila oil for interior work begins to thicken, which significantly increases the consumption during application.
On the one square meter usually takes up to 150 grams when applied with a brush in a thin layer. The composition is absorbed for 20 minutes, then they take a rag and begin to rub the excess over the wood fibers. Anything that is not included in the wood grain should be removed. In order for the composition to be absorbed, it can be diluted with white spirit by 40%. Processed materials dries 24 hours.
All rags after use should be disposed of. Hand impregnation on water based can be easily washed off with soap and warm water.
Interesting! Tunga impregnation for wood during the tsarist reign was used in exceptional cases, for processing interior items made of valuable wood. This is due to the fact that the texture of the wood treated with the composition becomes pronounced.
Tar
Natural composition, which not only protects wood from water, but also has a strong disinfecting quality. The mixture includes:
- pine turpentine;
- stump resin;
- flax oil.
Tar impregnation is used to impregnate berths and boat bottoms, and this is not surprising - turpentine liquid promotes deep penetration into wood, flax lubricant delays the mixture from coming out to the surface. Mineral impregnation for wood, it is characterized by itself when processing materials that are exposed to constant exposure to moisture.
If you compare oil impregnations, then in its characteristics tar oil for wood for internal processes is similar to tung and teak. It does an excellent job of protecting wood surfaces from insects, water and decay, while not distorting the color of the wood. As for the expense, then:
- to impregnate the sanded surface, no more than 150 ml per 1 m2 is required;
- for application on the walls of a house, 5-10 liters per 1 m2 will be required.
Treated surface dries up in a week, depending on air humidity and wood species. If the material is processed in one layer, then after 24 hours it is ready for use. Tar grease should not be diluted; just stir it before use.
Advice! All oils, except linseed oil, should be stored in a dry place in a sealed container. After freezing, they retain excellent properties.
How to trim a tree yourself
In most cases for home use
use linseed oil to impregnate wood for interior work, as it is inexpensive and generally available. For application, it is recommended to prepare the following materials and tools:
- oil composition;
- natural brush, soft foam rubber, rags and soft fabric;
- hair dryer for construction;
- hard metal brush;
- sandpaper;
- broom or vacuum cleaner;
- protective gloves.
Once everything is ready, you can start applying.
Work technology
Process wooden surfaces can be done in several ways. You can apply liquid and then rub in or soak. It is worth noting that soaking can only be applied to small items such as:
- figurines;
- tableware;
- decorative items.
Processed dishes suitable for use, it is moisture resistant, so that you can store fruits, salt and sugar, bread in it.
Surface preparation
One of important milestones in the treatment of wood oil for interior work is their preparation. If you intend to soak small figurines or utensils, then they need to be well sanded. If the items were previously coated with varnish, this layer is completely removed.
In preparation a large area will have:
- Remove the old cover e using a spatula or metal brush... If the coating cannot be cleaned, then you will need a building hair dryer, which should be used to heat the surface, from this the paint or varnish begins to bubble and can be easily removed.
- Then you need to sand the first step is using coarse sandpaper, the second step is to take a fine sandpaper. You need to clean until the plane is smooth to the touch.
- Dust the surface. To do this, you need to sweep the room or vacuum.
Application of oil composition
The most common way wood processing is considered oiling... If the surface to be treated is small, you can use a brush with natural bristles, but if the area is large, it is better to use a cloth soaked in grease. You need to do this as follows:
- lubricant for protection wood should be mixed well and poured a little into a paint tray;
- wet a rag and begin to coat the surface, applying strictly along the fibers;
- leave on the plane for 20 minutes, remove excess with a rag;
- surface should dry well before processing with the second layer.
Once applied to the surface the right amount layers and it will dry out completely, it needs to be well polished to a shine.
Soaking
In this way they are oiled small items... Oil is poured into the container, so that the wooden product is completely covered. You can withstand as much as you like - there are no restrictions.
As experts advise, the product must be in oil composition until air bubbles stop coming out.
On a pre-prepared table, covered with blank paper, set the object soaked in oil in such a way that the excess composition of the glass.
After that, the item needs polish thoroughly with a rag... If the object is soaked in linseed oil, then the protection is maximized, since the drying process of the composition lasts three weeks. If you want to use the finished item earlier, then use wood wax oil. You can prepare this mixture yourself, for this you need to rub wax and pour it into the oil heated to smoke, and then mix until smooth.
What's better
Many home craftsmen cannot decide what material to apply to protect their wood surfaces. We examined the advantage of using grease in detail, it remains to disassemble two other methods.
Wood protection with wax
Waxing - this method is familiar to humanity since antiquity... The wax protects the wood from moisture by filling porous surface wood, while the surface acquires a matte sheen. Unlike oil impregnation, wax does not allow the wood to "breathe".
Important! It is uneconomical and impractical to use pure wax, therefore it is mixed with oil impregnations in different proportions.
Varnishing
This is the most time consuming and costly method of wood preservation. from moisture, decay, mold and insects. In addition to the fact that the surface will have to be processed at least four times, the varnish coatings are afraid of mechanical damage, which can only be eliminated with a complete restoration.
The lacquer coating is afraid temperature difference, when heated, it begins to flake off, the surface dims from frost. When an aggressive detergent gets on it, a stain appears, which can only be removed by cleaning the entire surface and varnishing it again. Plus to everything - cutting, bad smell , which does not disappear for a long time.
Useful video
Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that the most the best option for self-processing wooden surfaces are oiled... Simple application, inexpensive material cost, the possibility of quick restoration - all this makes wood protection oil popular and in demand among home craftsmen.
The secrets of wood processing are passed down by craftsmen from generation to generation, for example, furniture makers and manufacturers musical instruments know several ways to protect wood, which have been around for many years: wood treatment with linseed oil, wax, oil and varnish. All three materials require a carefully prepared surface. Wood, which is preliminarily sanded and degreased. Sanding paper with granules is used for hand sanding different sizes, if you work with a grinder, then you will need grinding wheels with various grain sizes.
First, they are sanded with coarse-grained devices, and then the size of the granules should decrease. Well polished wood conifers it is imperative to degum the resin so that the protruding resin does not spoil the surface during subsequent manipulations. Wood processing technology allows the use of alcohol, white spirit, acetone, gasoline, turpentine or nitro solvents. In cases of serious gumming, this part of the surface is cut out, and another piece of wood is glued in its place. In addition, alkali resin is well removed, which is applied to the wood hot, and then washed off and the wooden surface is treated with acetic acid dissolved in water in a ratio of 1/50 to remove residues of alkaline solutions. Once the wood surfaces have been sanded and degummed, they must dry before you can further coat them with protective compounds.
Traditional ways of protecting wood Waxing by hand Waxing by hand Waxing technology has changed little over hundreds of years. Manual waxing is done with a cloth, which takes a piece of wax and rub it into a wooden surface, for a similar technique are used soft species wax. The hard wax is heated in a water bath and applied to the wood with a brush. The first method is used for waxing furniture, in all other cases the second is used. Oil treatment is used for external and internal work. Nobody uses pure oil; drying oil is made from it.
Varnish treatment refers to the final decorative coatings of wood, but at the same time varnish performs a certain protective function: Firstly, it protects the surface from scratches and chips. Secondly, it fills the pores and prevents the development of any microorganisms in them. Thirdly, it preserves the aesthetic appearance of the tree for a long time.
Other options for protecting wood Wooden structures can suffer not only from bark beetle or mold, but also from fire. In order to reduce the risk of accidental fires from a spark emitted from the oven or a short circuit in the electrical wiring, wooden parts treated with special protective impregnations - fire retardants. Fire retardant treatment allows after drying to apply any varnishes or paints to the wood.
To apply such impregnations, the wood must be dry and clean, any stains, as well as old coatings, must be removed first. Produced different kinds fire-retardant impregnations, which give the treated surfaces 1 or 2 fire resistance class. The compositions are applied using brushes, spray guns, and if the structure can be disassembled, then individual parts can be soaked in impregnated baths.
To protect against water, there are also different ways of processing wood. For example, coating with any varnish or paint will protect wooden structures from decay, but there are also special water-repellent impregnations - azure. What it is? These are glazing compositions that combine impregnation and transparent varnish, but, unlike the latter, do not leave a hard surface layer, but form an elastic film of matte, semi-matt or semi-glossy texture. Lapis lazuli are water-based, oil-based, white spirit, the former are more often used indoors, the latter are suitable for outdoor use. To change the shade, tinting compounds are added to the azure. In addition to the base and shade, glazes are also divided by density, in order to beautifully cover vertical wooden surfaces, it is better to take glazes high density- thixotropic, as it will not drip.
Varnish or oil - which coating parquet boards more practical to operate?
The topic of this article did not arise by accident. Our customers are becoming more and more knowledgeable about "sex issues", and many already know that there is more than varnish coating for parquet flooring. There is also oil treatment, which has significant advantages over polymer coatings.
Now we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.
Wood processing with oil has been considered traditional for many centuries, and only in the 20th and current 21st centuries was it unfairly forgotten. Moscow and other European capitals are full of buildings and objects, where the parquet, treated with oil, which is more than 200 and sometimes 300 years old, still lies. Is this possible with lacquered parquet flooring? No, history does not have such data. The majesty of time itself confirms that wood treated with oil becomes more resistant to mechanical damage and harder. To make this clearer for you, let's remember exotic breeds woods such as merbau, jatoba, kempas. These rocks contain a large amount of oily substances, and nature has done this so that during the dry summer, the wood does not dry out, releasing moisture. Merbau, Jatoba, Kempas and Wenge (exotic oily species) have wood hardness 50% higher than that of the hardest European species - oak. By treating wood with oil instead of varnish, you make it harder and much less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. This is just a small practical confirmation that oiled wood has radically better quality characteristics than varnished wood. 
Consider now practical examples behavior of a massive or parquet board under oil in modern conditions.
It is strictly forbidden to use a board under varnish in rooms where the temperature drops below 15 degrees. But the board under oil is not afraid of these unfavorable conditions. Why is this happening?
Photo processing of wood with oil
Varnish is polymer film, which is applied to the upper part of the wood, without penetrating into its pores. Imagine a varnish on a woman's nails - a 100 percent analogy: varnish protects the surface of the nail and makes it more aesthetic. This is where the benefits end. The nail does not breathe under the varnish, and, after a while, it needs to be given the opportunity to recover. Lacquered flooring also does not breathe. With changes in humidity and temperature in the room, the tree, trying to acquire the same humidity characteristics as the room, begins to expand and contract: all this happens directly under the varnish itself. That is why the cracking of a parquet board under varnish is significantly higher than that of a board under oil. Deformation of the upper layer of varnish due to the fact that the lower layer of wood is mobile occurs quickly enough. It is recommended to restore varnished parquet boards every 10 years. To do this, you need to take all the furniture out of the room, sand the board by removing old varnish, and apply a new one.
The situation is completely different with oiled wood. Considering the fact that the oil is deeply absorbed into the pores and does not interfere with the breathing of the entire board, there is almost no cracking. The board moves without any tension, freely moves and changes its shape. Oil treatment protects the board from moisture and can be washed with a damp cloth without fear of breaking the top layer. Feel free to use it in the kitchen, hallway and other "wet" areas. Wood under oil practically does not require restoration, it just needs maintenance. To do this, by purchasing a parquet or solid board under oil, purchase a care product. A bottle of such a product costs no more than 800 rubles and is enough for a very long period: 1.5-2 years. Add one cap of the product to a bucket of water and your floor will be “refurbished” every time you clean it. Each cleaning will refresh your floors, making them more and more attractive each time. 
Well, what if we spoiled our board by spilling a bottle of red wine on it? - you ask. Nothing bad will happen if you do not leave the wine to dry, but immediately remove it. Well, what if the unexpected happened and the wine dried up? In this case, having visited the nearest store with parquet chemicals, purchase 2 bottles of special products: one will clean the stain, the second will restore its appearance. And note that for restoration you do not need to cycle and change the entire floor in the room: you can do it locally! Moreover, many companies that produce oiled floor coverings have special teams who, upon your call, will come and do all the work themselves. Do manufacturers of varnished parquet boards have such a service? No, he is absent.
And the last question that may confuse you. Dust, you say. The oil absorbs dust. Yes exactly. The oil absorbs dust and the care product removes dust. And it cannot be otherwise. On any flooring dust must be removed either with a vacuum cleaner or with wet cleaning.
Do not forget also about the fact that the coating with oil is the most environmentally friendly and natural: no acids, formaldehydes and polymers that are in the varnish. American therapists also advise using such floors at home, since the oil retains the natural texture of the wood and the surface acquires a gentle silk effect.
Features of proper wood waxing
It is important to emphasize the texture of the wood with an appropriate finish. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on a different basis. They have their advantages, but there are also significant disadvantages, the main one being unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, when making wooden spoons or dishes.
Natural beeswax or vegetable wax
1) harmless to health,
2) emphasizes the beauty and reveals the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the surface of the wood treated with wax becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, besides, it breathes, unlike varnishing,
4) the wood acquires a noble matte sheen that does not hurt the eyes,
5) has an excellent smell. 
Before waxing, the wood must be impregnated. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil, preferably flaxseed oil. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then sanded.
Linseed oil is often prepared impregnating compounds on herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal). The tannins contained in plants turn into oil and, when processing wood, strengthen its surface layers.
Peppermint oil
Here is a recipe for making peppermint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:
100 g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured into 0.5 liters of vegetable oil, shaken and sent to a dark place for 2 weeks. Then it is filtered and used.
After the tree is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is prepared from wax and turpentine in a 2: 1 ratio or oil and wax in a 2: 1 ratio (this is for food products). Here's another recipe for making wax mastic:
We take 100 g of wax, 25 g of crushed rosin and 50 g of refined turpentine.
In a water bath, melt the wax in an enamel container, add rosin. After dissolving the wax, gradually add the turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives it extra flavor. We remove everything from the heat, pour it into a tin can and let the composition cool. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:
They rub the product with it and rub it with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and shine appears.
Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.
In addition to beeswax, carnauba wax is often used, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree. In hot weather, it emits wax, which covers the surface of the sheet and protects against moisture loss.
Carnauba wax has a higher melting point, so it is more stable than beeswax. But also 3 times more expensive.
Advice:
I have tried a mixture of beeswax and edible linseed oil for waxing.
We heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add the linseed oil and mix well.
Proportions:
Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a "greasy" sheen.
Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. The more oil, the more creamy the mastic will turn out. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before using, we climb into the jar with a rag and, having typed a little mastic, we polish the product on the machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles(sour cream will climb everywhere).
Mastic based on "Wax-oil" - relatively safe for "food" products (jars, vases for cookies). Why I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person whose product will cause allergies. I personally know a person with an allergy to linseed oil :)
But it should be recognized that the components of the mastic wax and oil are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with products.
Try mixing wax with other oils - maybe you will like something better.
Going further - you can insist the oil before mixing on the roots and herbs (insist for about 2 weeks).
For the sake of interest, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when a linden tree is covered with such mastic, a delicate juniper smell comes from it (a familiar carpenter was at first puzzled :)). Also, various herbs and roots often change the shade of the covered product - in general, an endless springboard for creativity.
Linseed oil can be bought at many pharmacies, where it is the cheapest. The oil that is sold in art salons - I do not recommend using it for food products.
I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's bazaar." Once I bought wax on the market (in the form of molds) - something is not right.
Also, products can be covered with just a piece of wax - apply wax to a rotating product - rub well, and then polish with cotton, woolen or linen
Linseed oil
Also in Ancient Rus craftsmen began to impregnate wood with oil in order to improve its properties. With the help of linseed oil, they impregnated wooden spoons, thereby prolonging their operational life... And today, wood impregnation oil is one of the better means, such as varnish.
There is finishing and primary processing of wood. During the initial processing, the tree is impregnated with an antiseptic, which protects it from the appearance of microorganisms that can have a destructive effect. Finishing impregnation is used with varnishes, oils or glazing agents. It is when doing the finishing treatment that it is extremely important to choose the right product so that in the future your structure can stand as long as possible. Oil for wood, especially linseed oil, is able to perfectly penetrate into the logs, giving them a satin, beautiful shine, with its help you can even get the "antiquity" effect. Often, special preparations are also added to the oil for wood, which can protect it from bad weather and enhance the properties of the tree.
The oil is recommended to be used during finishing wooden log cabins, which are used to build a bath. In this case, preparations containing oil in their base are practically irreplaceable, since such a tree will have to literally come into contact with the human body. The composition of oils intended for the treatment of the steam room contains natural resins and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. On the floor, this oil is able to form a durable thin layer that is not afraid of human sweat, water and high temperatures. Oil consumption for such impregnation is approximately 10 square meters per liter.
Plus, this colorless linseed oil is great for treating shelves and everything bath room generally. Before starting wood processing, you must make sure that the humidity in the room is 80%, and the humidity of the wood is no more than 21%. The tree must be dry, cleaned in advance from dirt, fungi and mold. If necessary, you can prime the surface to be treated. If the wood has been previously varnished or painted, then oil cannot be used.
Before processing, flaxseed oil must be thoroughly stirred, and it must not be diluted with water. It should be applied to the wood gently with a simple cloth or brush. Any oil that has not been absorbed into the wood should be removed. The oil is applied to the wood in two layers. The oil dries rather slowly, about a week, while the drying period directly depends on the quality of the treated wood and weather conditions.
Wood shavings and brushes, rags that have come into contact with linseed oil should be kept in a bucket of water, as spontaneous combustion is possible. It is best to destroy them immediately after the impregnation is complete. It is forbidden to pour the remains of linseed oil into the ground, natural reservoirs and sewers.
Oil-based formulations are a one-stop solution suitable for decorative finishing any wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but they do a wide range other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, environmental friendliness. Processing wood with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product, it allows you to emphasize the natural beauty of the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.
Simple application technology avoids streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the trim can be easily removed and renewed. As a rule, oil is used for wooden items that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.
What oils are most in demand?
Linseed oil - differs in ease of application, deep penetration into the structure of wood, high resistance to impact external environment... The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Processing of coarse wood with linseed oil is carried out in several layers.
Drying oil Is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of desiccants in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes given view finishes are much more practical.
Tung oil Derived from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, it effectively enhances the texture of the wood and forms a hard-wearing matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. While linseed oil is more suitable for refurbishing old surfaces, then using tung oil is more appropriate for refurbishing new products.
Danish oil – finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbents. Treatment of wood with Danish oil allows you to emphasize its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the composition.
Teak oil - a mixture of natural oils, resins and absorbent components. The teak oil finish on the wood provides a durable decorative coating with a glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours, depending on the specifics of the composition.
What is oil solids?
Oil dry residue percentage - important characteristic, which determines the features of the finishing composition. The dry residue is understood as the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various strengthening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry matter of the product, the better the covering power it has. Accordingly, oils with a high solids content require fewer application layers. Moreover, the drying (polymerization) process of such compositions takes longer.
How to properly prepare the surface?
Before applying the finishing composition, the wood surface is sanded using abrasives of various grain sizes:
- wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
- wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives Р180-Р240.
Dust off the sanded surface with a damp, lint-free cloth. When finishing on oily wood species (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.
How to process wood with oil: general principles
The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface using a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Evenly distributing an abundant amount of oil on a wooden surface, it must be allowed to soak (about 15 minutes), then wipe off the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be shiny, sticky, with possible staining.
Spread the oil evenly to avoid mottling. Process the edges and ends first of all, because due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing compound more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.
The optimum temperature for processing wood with oil is 15-25 ° C. With indicators below 10 ° C and high humidity it is better to temporarily refuse to work.
Professional subtleties of oil application
If stains develop on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.
Place the container of oil in hot water... Avoid contact with open flames.
The oil should not be applied in direct sunlight as it will it will be absorbed too quickly, which in turn will complicate re-processing.
Use a special dispenser for impregnating the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.
How does the oil stick to the stain?
Oil and stain are not the best, but a perfectly acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorbency of subsequent formulations, because partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, only water-based stains can be used. At the same time, practice shows that a more effective alternative to stain in this case are tinting pastes for tinting oils.
How long does the oil dry?
- linseed oil - 2-3 days;
- linseed oil - 24 hours;
- tung oil - 24 hours;
- polyurethane oil varnish –12 hours;
- Danish butter - 4-12 hours;
- teak oil - 4-6 tsp
Since oils harden (polymerize) during oxidation, reacting with oxygen, drying of products should be carried out in a room with constant air circulation.
What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?
By reacting with oxygen, oils are oxidized. This process is accompanied by heating, which can provoke spontaneous combustion of cleaning cloth and other items used in the course of work. Therefore, never leave oiled rags rolled up: dry them unrolled outside and only then dispose of. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that come into contact with oil should be stored in an airtight metal container.