How to self-cover the walls with decorative plaster. DIY decorative plaster of walls: step-by-step wall decoration with decorative plaster

Many people consider decorative plaster for walls beautiful, but very expensive material for decoration, however in reality it is not. Naturally, there are very expensive types of such material, but today we will tell you only about the most affordable ones that any person can apply with their own hands.

Structural plaster for walls has several types of texture:

bark beetle (imitation of spoiled tree bark);
textured stone plaster;
flock (with a silk effect);
with marble chips;
Venetian;
"Rain" - imitation of raindrops on glass;
"rock".

We will talk about the most common for interior decoration and, which is very important, inexpensive types - rain and rock, which are the easiest to do.

Application of decorative plaster "rock"

Plaster with a rock texture This method of application is the easiest, it is perfect for beginners. To create a textured surface, we will not buy a special mixture, but use the usual finishing putty based on gypsum or cement. Sheetrock is best suited for this, as it is sold ready-made and does not need to be stirred by hand. It is better not to take too soft and loose types of such material (for example, Vetonit).

Note! Decorative plaster for the walls of the kitchen, toilet and bath is suitable only for cement base... Here it is imperative to apply a thick layer of protective varnish on water based over the paint. In rooms with high humidity like a bathroom and kitchen work surface, make a protective backsplash out of glass, tiles or panels.

Before it is important to prime the walls and it is desirable to apply a layer of putty; this will eliminate gaps and improve coverage.
How to apply the putty? We choose small area on the wall, about 0.5 sq. m., and we collect the putty on the ironer. It is necessary to spread it evenly with a layer of 2-3 mm. The thicker the layer, the rougher the texture will be.
After that, evenly distributing the solution on the wall, you can start creating the structural pattern. clean the trowel from material and place it firmly against the wall on fresh putty. You can do this with either side, but you need to slightly lift the bottom edge of the trowel and at the same time make a downward movement. If you just apply it to the surface, it will stick.
This will give you texture by creating slight irregularities in the applied grout. To create a beautiful pattern, movements can be completely different, this is the uniqueness decorative plaster... The main thing is, when the trowel comes off the mixture, do it smoothly so that there are no traces left. Try it a couple of times and you will see the best way to do it. You can apply the structure with herringbone movements, criss-cross, vertically, horizontally, etc. If something doesn't work out, you can make amends and try again.
It is also important to clean the trowel after each applied area so that excess mortar does not spoil the texture.
After you have done the first section, proceed to the next, but overlap the previous one so that there are no gaps.
After application, you need to wait about a day for the walls to dry completely, and then you can proceed to further painting, this is described below.

In the process of work, you may have problems with the sticking of the trowel, traces from it and, as a result, an uneven pattern. If you cannot achieve the same pattern on the entire wall, then it's okay - you are doing an imitation of rocks. The main thing is not to allow sharp changes otherwise they will be conspicuous.

Plastering with rain

This finishing method is more complicated than the first one, but the result is much more spectacular. See the photo for an example of such a wall.

An example of decorative plaster with rain in the kitchen
Most often, the rain structure is applied at an angle, but this is not essential.

The result of the work is a beautiful wall with a plaster structure

You can see the method of applying plaster with rain in more detail in the video:

Painting decorative plaster

Be sure to prime the surface before painting. No primer is required for the second and subsequent coats.
If you paint the structural plaster with a solid color, the texture will be lost and the result will not be the best. The greatest effect is achieved when painting with two colors to highlight the texture. To do this, you can use the dry brush or wash method. Applying paint with a wash emphasizes the hollows of the relief, and with a dry brush, on the contrary, the protrusions.
Any method is perfect for a rock, since its texture is quite varied, but for rain, only a wash is good.
In any case, you will have to apply the original background color, preferably in several layers. To do this, apply the paint with a long-nap roller. But a layer that is too thick will also look bad, as it can hide the small roughness of the texture you created.

Advice! Please note that the paint consumption will be higher than on ordinary smooth walls. To paint the background for a wash, it is better to choose a good waterproof paint, and any paint will go for a dry brush.

To highlight the relief with a dry brush, it is better to use light contrasting shades, and to emphasize the wash, on the contrary, darker ones.

Dry brushing

Let's take a look at how the dry brush painting technique works. To do this, you need a wide flat brush, a paint bath, and pieces of cardboard.

Pour some paint into a tray and dip the brush into it. Then wipe the tool first on the tray and then on a piece of cardboard to remove excess.
Now you can apply paint to the plaster with light movements in different directions. An important point here - the brush must be kept parallel to the wall so that it barely touches its surface, and with chaotic movements it is as if to wipe off the remnants.

The main thing is to avoid abrupt color transitions and brush marks. As a result, you should have a wall like in the photo:

Dry brush painting example

Paint blur

The second method of applying paint with a wash is much more complicated. Its essence is that you apply another, darker layer of paint to the wall. After a while, you wipe it off with a wet cloth, not allowing it to dry completely. As a result, the indentations will appear darker than the bulges.

The technology itself is very simple, but time-consuming and physically demanding. But if you make a bright spot somewhere, you can paint over and wipe it again.

The photo shows an example in which the first background paint layer was white and the wash layer was yellow.

Example of a dark paint wash

To make it easier to wash off the second layer of washer, it is better to use a simple, non-moisture-resistant paint. It usually costs less, so you can even save some money.

Varnish application

The final and obligatory stage is coating the paint with varnish. This is done for extra protection and for a brighter, more saturated color.

Any water-based varnish such as Alpina or Tikkurila can be used for this purpose. Be sure to dilute it with water approximately 1: 1 so that it penetrates well into the structure.
Apply the varnish with a wide brush in 2 or 3 layers. To avoid smudges on the walls, squeeze the brush against the ribs of the paint bath. Wait a little before applying the next layer, the varnish dries quickly.

In the photo you can see the result of the structural plaster, which was covered in 2 layers with Tikkurila Paneeli Assa varnish. The approximate consumption of varnish is 2.5 liters per 50 sq. m. plaster rain.

Varnished plaster
As you can see, the result is much better. Now you can freely wash such a wall with a rag and not be afraid to damage it. To give the room a finished look, glue ceiling plinth on putty during repairs or after painting.

How much does decorative plaster cost

3 buckets of Sheetrock putty, each costs 1000 rubles. To save money, you can buy a cheaper form and stir the solution yourself with a mixer.
10 liters of Caparol white paint - 4500 rubles.
2.5 liters of Finncolor ocher paint - 1000 rubles.
1 can of Paneeli Assa varnish - 1200 rubles.

Total: 9,700 rubles went to do-it-yourself decorative plaster of the walls, despite the fact that they were used quality materials rather than the cheapest. It doesn't come out that expensive, but it looks very unusual. This is not wallpapering: not every apartment has such beautiful walls.

Conclusion

As you can see, do-it-yourself textured plaster of the walls allows you to make repairs without much physical effort, even for a girl. The pattern will be unique across the entire surface, and the finish will be unique.

Subject to the technology described above, such a coating will serve you for many years, even in loaded rooms (like a kitchen and a corridor). We've covered just a few ways to create a textured surface, but you can use any means to create a unique design.

Sooner or later, it's time to make repairs. Regardless of what it will be, capital or cosmetic, you will have to change or refresh the existing decorative coatings of walls and ceilings. For many, this process seems complicated. However, in fact, even without special knowledge and skills, it is quite possible to carry out decorative wall covering with your own hands. Next, we will analyze this work in more detail. The article will also show the most popular decorative wall coverings. Photos of surfaces can also be seen below. It all depends on your imagination and taste.

General information

As you know, the decorative wall covering, whatever it may be, is laid on the prepared base. The surface must be degreased, dry and clean. You can decorate the walls and ceiling using various materials. It can be plastic or drywall or tiles. Today, the most popular is the wall covering with decorative plaster. It should be noted that this material is applied to flat surfaces. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base, eliminate all defects.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

rule;
Master OK;
grater;
a set of spatulas;
plumb line and level.

To facilitate the work, experts recommend purchasing ready-made mixtures. V building stores today there is a wide range of products for ceilings and ceilings. Ready mixes are very easy to work with. It is enough to dilute dry formulations with water in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer and mix thoroughly. The material is poured into a container filled with water. It is best to mix the solution using a drill with a special mixer attachment. This greatly speeds up and facilitates the process.

Surface preparation

Before decorating the walls, it is necessary to level the base. This is done using "starter" mixtures. The wall is pre-wetted with water. A small amount of the solution is placed on a grater, and then poured onto the surface with a spatula or trowel. After that, the area that needs to be leveled is overwritten. If there is not enough solution in any areas, it must be added in small portions. Further, after the mixture has set, it is rubbed completely. The correctness of application must be checked with a level.

Features of wooden surfaces

Plastering of such walls is carried out using a special technology. The surface is preliminarily cleaned of dirt and dried. Small notches are made on the wall. They will provide better adhesion of the material to the substrate. Next, you need to fill the shingles - some semblance of a crate. Optimal size cells - 4 x 4 cm. Thin slats are used for shingles. Stuff them crosswise at an angle of 45 degrees relative to each other. The edges of the slats are fixed to the wall. Before fastening, the elements are moistened with water so that they do not crack.

Alternative option

Above was described the traditional plastering technology wooden surface... This method of rough preparation of the base has been used for many years. Today, instead of shingles, a special mesh is more often used. It can be metal (twisted, solid, braided) or polymer (synthetic). The mesh must be firmly attached to the surface. After that, plastering is carried out according to the standard technology. Experts recommend using mortar with the addition of cement or gypsum. It is advisable to add PVA glue to the finished mixture (it will slow down the setting) in an amount of 200 g per 10 liters. The solution is applied in a layer no more than 2 cm thick.

Finishing (decorative) wall covering

Before applying the material, you must decide on the type of solution. This is due to the fact that different decorative wall coverings require a certain preparation of the base. For example, for a "Venetian" you need an ideal Smooth surface... Before making such a decorative wall covering with your own hands, the base will need to be putty. As a result, the surface must be prepared in the same way as for painting. If the walls are finished with fine-grained decorative coatings, then fewer requirements are imposed on the base. For textured, textured mixtures, the surface can be prepared less carefully. However, in any case, the base should be without strong drops, pits and bumps.

Material selection

Many consumers have serious difficulties in connection with the wide range on the market. In addition, in some cases, wall covering with decorative plaster is carried out according to a certain technology, and skills and knowledge are required. However, there is quite available ways get a spectacular surface design at a lower cost. Let's take a look at some of them below.

Roller application

This is perhaps the cheapest and easiest way to finish. A roller with a relief pattern is used for. Experts recommend using mixes that are sold in buckets. Before plastering the walls, the surfaces should be primed. You must wait until it dries. Then it is applied easily done immediately with a roller with a relief. The pattern can be very different. At the same time, you can emphasize the depth of the relief and its features if you additionally use surface staining.

Stamping

This method involves the use of a stencil. The technology for applying decorative plaster in this case practically does not differ from that described above. Only here not a roller is used, but a special stamp.

Other fixtures

In this case, there is practically no relief pattern. When applying the plaster, a special trowel, a notched trowel or a comb are used. It should be noted that the options for laying materials on the surface are not limited to those described above. The drawing can also be obtained with the help of improvised means, for example, cellophane bag, sponges.

Special formulations

You can get an original surface not only using different instruments and accessories. Manufacturers produce various types of plaster. With the help of certain compositions, you can create a unique pattern on the surface.

"Bark beetle"

The plaster got this name thanks to the pattern that is obtained when it is applied. The pattern is reminiscent of beetle tracks that remain on the surface of a tree. Plaster "bark beetle" is used to decorate both external and internal surfaces. Among the advantages of the material, it should be noted:

resistance to temperature and humidity changes;
moisture resistance;
strength;

The mixture is based on mineral fillers and an astringent. Particles of quartz, granite, marble are used as the first ones. It is they who create the necessary pattern on the surface.

Decorative stone

Highly attractive option is the design of the surface in marble. It is quite possible to apply such a coating yourself. However, in the process of work, it is necessary to follow the sequence of actions, carefully follow all stages. This coating has an exquisite appearance. Other advantages of the material include:

incombustibility;
durability and strength;
resistance to external factors.

This coating can be applied both indoors and outdoors. The material is in perfect harmony with the interior in classic style... In addition, decorative marbled plaster is distinguished by a variety of shades. An important advantage of the material is ease of maintenance. During operation, the surface does not lose its attractive appearance, does not wear off and does not fade.

Finally

Of course, there are a lot of varieties of decorative plaster, as well as the methods of its application. If there is a desire to create a beautiful surface without significant costs, then you need to choose simpler mixtures, the installation of which does not require special knowledge and can be carried out with available tools and devices. It is better to invite a specialist to create exclusive surfaces. However, in general, the process of applying decorative plaster is quite simple. The main thing is to carefully prepare the base.

First of all, the methods of applying decorative plaster depend on its variety and, therefore, on the consistency.

Some general points

Consider the following factors:

it is not very convenient to work with a liquid mass, since it cannot be additionally diluted with water;
material with a large aggregate - crumb is applied only by hand;
formulations with crumbs of different fractions are difficult to apply manually;
plasters, mixed with water, are less toxic, but more susceptible to the negative effects of the environment.

Remember more important points, which are spoken about by all the lessons of applying decorative plaster.

On dense plastic surfaces oil paint, polyurethane foam material will dry much longer than on plaster or porous concrete.
OSB, chipboard, plywood, wood can deform when working with decorative coating water based.
If the surface of the base has defects, a thicker layer will be required, which means that consumption will increase.
When water masses are applied to ferrous metals, rust spots may appear on them.

Note! Almost all types of artistic plasters have the same curing time. Curing takes place in 3-5 hours, it takes 1-1.5 days to dry, complete hardening occurs in 7-9 days.

In the first 48 hours, the surface must be protected from temperature extremes, moisture and damage.

Surface preparation

It is no different from similar operations for ordinary plaster: the walls must be clean, dry and dust-free, free from cracks and major damage.

The primer will soften the negative effects of temperature changes, humidity, deforming stresses and will strengthen the carrier layer.

Various types of primers are available for. Weak and crumbling bases must be treated with a strengthening compound.

Before making decorative plaster, drywall is treated with primer deep penetration... Insulating compounds are recommended for GVL and GVLV.

Making a primer has several features:

its thickness should not be less than 2 cm;
when smoothing, the soil must be strongly compacted so as not to subsequently violate the uniformity of the texture;
the layer must be kept wet for 7-12 days, moisten it with water two to three times a day.

Application methods

Pulling technology

Furrow texture on decorative plaster

Coating different types is created various instruments... The application technique may require the use of a brush, embossed roller, trowel, spatula, spatula.

The most common is pulling. It is carried out with a trowel or steel float, the work goes from bottom to top.

The grater is kept at an angle of 60 ° to the wall surface. The thickness of the material layer should be related to the fractional content of the filler.

When the mortar stops sticking to the instrument, the final texture and pattern of the coating can be formed with a plastic float.

A little about how to properly apply various types of decorative plaster.

Sandy and creating various types of texture. This is done with molding tools.

So, how is decorative plaster made with various textured drawings. DIY instructions:

Wave. Notches are made on a fresh, previously rubbed surface. Further, it is moistened with water and a layer of solution is applied in strips. Stripes can be made straight or zigzag. Surface waviness is created by smoothing with a trowel.
Boulders. A colored solution with good plasticity is applied to the ground. Smooth it out with a scraper and with a hard brush, trim the surface. At the same time, hold the brush at an angle of 90 ° to the wall. The more rigid it is, the sharper the boulders will be outlined.

Travertine. The tinted solution is applied with a thin layer to the surface and smoothed with a spatula or a half-trowel.
Furrows. This texture requires a bevel with semicircular teeth, 3 cm wide and 1.5 cm between them. Before work, the teeth must be sharpened. A minimally movable plaster is applied to the primer and immediately smoothed with a slicker. Then the rule is applied to it and the grooves are formed with the sharpened part of the bevel, which is kept at an angle of 45 °. Their shape depends on the configuration of the teeth.
Fur coat. It can be created by spraying, scattering through the mesh, brushing off. The cross-section of the mesh in the mesh should be about 1 cm. Pull it over a 1 × 1 m frame, lean it against the ground and throw the mixture with a spatula through the mesh. It is necessary to apply the solution with equal force so that the coating is homogeneous.
A related technology - spray application is as follows. The solution is drawn up with a broom, which hits the stick in such a way that the composition is sprayed on the wall.
Flakes. If the spray is made with a liquid and plastic mass, a texture is formed that resembles flakes of various sizes and shapes.
Sponge. A solution of a creamy consistency is applied to the primer and leveled. A sponge is leaning against it at selected intervals. To prevent the mixture from sticking, dampen it with soapy water.
Terrazzite plaster can be given the texture of strokes. It is obtained from a fine-grained set mortar. The interval after which you can start processing ranges from one to five hours. The texture is formed by notches, for which a comb is used.
Shattered Stone. To get this texture, it is necessary to hammer the tongue into the hardened mortar. It will chip off pieces of the coating, the resulting indentations will give the coating a grain.

Spraying technology

In the photo there is an apparatus for spraying decorative plaster (price - from 52,000 rubles)

There is one more technology for making decorative plaster - spraying. With this method, the composition is applied to the slopes, decorative elements or geometrically complex surfaces.

Serves to increase the aesthetic effect by working with artistic plasters of various factions. For example, for the main surfaces, a composition with a thickness of 3 mm is selected, and a layer of 1 mm is sprayed on decorative elements and slopes.

Before applying decorative plaster using this method, you need to purchase or rent a special apparatus.

Spraying on one wall should be carried out continuously, starting from the top and observing the rule of "work wet on wet". If it is necessary to interrupt the work, along the line, where the decorative layer ends, glue the masking tape. After applying plaster, form its structure and only then remove the tape.

Outcome

These are the most common and simple ways applying artistic plasters. Before getting to work, be sure to watch the video in this article.

Photo gallery

Decorative plaster, together with firmly holds the palm among finishing materials... Using natural materials and traditional technologies DIY decorative plaster saves up to 80% of finishing costs or allows you to start a highly profitable small business: the components are cheap and the work is difficult and expensive.

Another important advantage is a huge wealth of colors, textures and reliefs, roughly equivalent in terms of labor intensity and cost. The picture shows only a small part of the available textures, each of which also has varieties, and may vary depending on the method of application. In the interior, decorative plaster gives freedom of design: you just need to say what surface is needed, and the craftsmen will do it, so long as the customer does not require a different type of finish.

People with artistic talent can only use plaster, see next pic. A skilled craftsman can achieve the effect of the full presence of the present in the fictional, as in fig. left. But, of course, before taking on such work, you need to fully master the entire technology and feel the material to the finest nuances.

Finally, there are many polymer-based ready-mixes on the market that are strong, durable and designed for different modes temperature and humidity. Although they are not cheap, the technology for applying decorative plaster industrial production not complicated, a thorough, time-consuming leveling of the underlying surface is not required, so in general finishing with decorative plaster may be cheaper ordinary plaster followed by wallpapering and painting.

So what is it made of, this wonderful material? Can you do it yourself? How to work with him?

It is not difficult to make decorative plaster yourself from natural components, you only need neatness and a simple tool. Ready-made mixtures on a polymer basis require industrial manufacturing technology, but it is easier to decorate walls with them than to plaster for wallpaper or painting. Working with decorative plaster is not technically difficult, but the most accurate robot will not cope with it: you need a certain amount of artistic taste.

And most importantly, we are not talking about one material, but about many types and varieties. The main ones will be described in this article, but first of all - about the composition and its components. Then - preparatory work, and only then - for the case.

Composition and components

Decorative plaster for internal works consists of a filler that gives the general tone, strength and durability, pigment (color), structural (modeling) elements, surface or bulk, and a binder that holds it all together in a monolith. To increase the surface resistance, the finished coating is glazed - a hardening composition is introduced into a thin surface layer.

Excipients

The most common filler was and remains pure fine white river sand or finely ground quartz sand. For the present Venetian plaster(see below) it is partially or completely replaced with marble flour. Synthetic self-forming fillers are becoming more and more common (when the plaster dries, it shrinks into a unique relief), but mixtures with them are produced only industrially and sold ready-made.

Pigments

The mixtures impart color (tint) with mineral and organic synthetic pigments. Natural organic pigments (cochineal, indigo) in plaster fade quickly. The pigment can be in the form of a powder, then it is introduced into the filler before mixing; pasty and liquid pigments are added to the ready-to-use mixture.

To create any color, in principle, red, green and blue are sufficient - the main basic colors, but the plaster itself does not glow, its color is created by subtracting additional colors from the reflected white. In colorimetry, this method of coloring is called subtractive.

Therefore, to get clean and / or deep tones, additional colors are needed: yellow, blue (turquoise), purple (lilac, violet), and key color; with a white backing, the key is black... There are more than enough synthetic pigments of any color on sale, and from mineral ones for natural plaster, the following can be recommended:

Red- red ocher, calcined hematite, red cadmium. Cinnabar is by no means a mercury compound! Cadmium is also toxic, but not volatile, chemically resistant and does not migrate from the plaster layer.
Yellow- yellow ocher, orpiment, yellow red lead.
Green- malachite (ground), pseudomalachite, kerchenite, green chrome, brilliant green in powder.
Blue- blue (next item) mixed with zinc or titanium white; azurite and dioptase are expensive.
Blue- lapis lazuli (lapis lazuli), cobalt blue, vivianite (mineral indigo).
Purple- calcined lapis lazuli, manganese oxides. Pharmacy potassium permanganate is not suitable, and not at all because of the regulated turnover: it is chemically aggressive (strong oxidizing agent), actively migrates.
Brown- dark ocher, red lead iron.
Black- gas soot, charcoal.

Notes:

Violet, lilac and magenta; blue with turquoise - visually different colors... But they belong to the same area of the spectrum - mixing them with yellow, you can get the same red or green, only the ratio of the components will be different.

Gas soot is not scraped out of the chimney. It is sold precisely as a pigment in hardware and art stores.

In general, any mineral pigments for easel painting will go for decorative wall plastering, it's only a matter of price. There is a difference - to paint an icon, which will then be bought for several thousand dollars, or to finish two dozen squares, keeping within the family budget. For shine, metal powders are used as a pigment.

Organic pigments are cheaper than many mineral pigments, they can be iridescent (pearl, metallic) and fluorescent (self-luminous after exposure to the Sun). But keep in mind - there is no organic matter that would not burn out for decades, not to mention centuries, and, in principle, cannot exist. The highest UV resistance achieved to date is 80 years at a coating price of $ 4 per square inch.

Modeling elements

To form a textured surface, the mixture is introduced or sprayed onto the finished coating, different kinds flakes, fibers, granules, up to golden balls. This will be discussed in more detail in the description of the types of plasters, but it is important to know: mineral plaster mixtures are structured very poorly. You need to either accurately follow proven recipes, or have extensive experience in order to experiment yourself.

Binder

For plaster, mineral and organic polymer binders are used. The first ones are not very sticky, but they have been tested for centuries and are cheap; the second - firmly adhere to anything, except for clean glass, polished metal, polyethylene and fluoroplastic, stretch well when dry, but are expensive and less than 100 years old.

Mineral

Cement and simple gypsum are not used for decorative plaster: the former gives a too rough surface and a dirty color tone, and the latter is fragile. There are mixtures on the market based on gypsum modified with polymer additives, but their reliability has not yet been tested for centuries.

Natural decorative plaster is most often made on a lime test. It is cheap, strong, durable, allows the use of a variety of decorative techniques, but its adhesion capacity is low, so a good, and rather laborious, surface preparation is required. The relief can only be obtained by sculpting on a wet or stencil basis - it is not plastic, does not stretch.

Sometimes, for those who are not particularly responsible for design, but requiring increased durability of coatings (for example, in the hallway), they take plaster on a binder from liquid glass- silicate. It is strong, sticks well, but is rough, and not every pigment can be introduced into it.

For especially critical cases, a magnesian binder is taken: caustic magnesite (magnesium oxide) MgO, mixed with an aqueous solution of magnesium chloride MgCl2. The components are caustic, individually dangerous, the mixture must be prepared immediately before use, strictly observing the rules of chemical technology, but the plaster comes out extremely strong and moisture resistant.

Organic

The main organic binders are acrylic resin and silicone, which is already organosilicon. And that, and another perfectly sticks and stretches. Acrylic is much cheaper; the price of the finished coating is comparable to that of the mineral water; layer thickness - up to 12 mm. Silicone is very expensive, but it allows you to make convex bas-reliefs, high-reliefs and even a round sculpture.

Mixes

The standard composition of plaster mixes for interior decoration is as follows:

filler - 3 parts by weight;
binder - 1 part by weight;
pigment - 2-12% by weight of the mixture according to the results of blooming, see below;
modeling additives - using a secret proprietary technology or the results of our own unique experience.

Note: up to 80-90% of filler with pigment can be added to plaster based on acrylic binder, as for liquid stone. The wall for such a plaster should be prepared as under a Venetian one on an acrylic substrate, see below, and still limit yourself to 4 parts of filler with pigment per 1 part of a binder - the plaster is not a countertop, it does not lie, but hangs on the wall.

Paint

Decorating the walls with decorative plaster is unthinkable without trial paints. They are needed not only to select the tone and check the texture, but also to test the adhesion strength: after complete drying of the sample, the paint is turned upside down or placed on the priest and tapped on its back with the butt of a roller or spatula handle. If it does not fall off, it will stick to the wall.

Painting is done on a plywood board 0.5x0.5 m with a thickness of 8-20 mm. Plywood is needed without impregnation, the simplest one, on casein glue, from softwood or birch. Replace plywood with drywall or other slab materials not: it is plain plywood on casein that holds the plaster in the same way as a prepared wall.

Note: plywood for fading needs not exfoliated and new, not dusty and not captured. Dust and grease drastically reduce the adhesive susceptibility of the substrate.

Glazing

Glazing is the final operation of decorative plastering. Its purpose is to give the relief and / or painting surface durability. The traditional way of glazing old mineral plasters is beeswax: Line the surface with a piece of wax, then rub it with a horny sponge, thin felt or rawhide polish.

glaze wax

Wax glazing is a laborious and demanding operation. Wax is applied and rubbed multiple times, and at the same time, you must not erase the relief or wipe the drawing. Suffice it to say that the quality of glazing in the old days was checked by putting a palm to the opposite side of the wall: it had to heat through from friction heating.

Nowadays, they are glazed either with transparent acrylic varnish - it easily penetrates into the surface layer of any plaster - or with special single-use glazing compounds; they are simply applied with a roller or brush. But there is a nuance: if a ready-made mixture is used, then it is necessary to glaze with the composition of the same manufacturer, and designed specifically for this mixture. It is physically impossible to check all plaster products on the market for compatibility.

I must say that some manufacturers shamelessly use this circumstance for their own selfish ends: the mixture seems to be inexpensive, but glaze for it ... no words, one original Russian abnormality. Therefore, when choosing a ready-made mixture, be sure to read the FIRM's instructions how it is recommended to glaze it, and ask how much it costs. In extreme cases, acrylic varnish has not yet ruined any plaster.

Video: an example of glazing in the video of a varnish manufacturer

Tool

To work on decorative plaster, in addition to the usual plastering tools, you will also need a special one: textured rollers, stamps, a rubbing sponge, see Fig. The set also does not hurt notched trowels, especially if the design of a modern clone is supposed.

Rolls and dies must, firstly, be soft-elastic, otherwise not a unique relief will turn out, but rolling with a roll. Secondly, they should not stick with the mixture. For permanent use, it is better to get Teflon or polyester coated rollers - they are durable. For a one-time amateur work, it is better to purchase cheap plastic ones.

Special mention should be made of the sponges for rubbing. The luxury finishes are still rubbed with natural sea horn sponges; they go on sale as "coral", although the sponge is not coral at all, and are expensive. Two types of horny sponges are obtained: toilet and horse. The first is softer, goes to the final grout, and the second, coarser - to the rough grout.

However, practice shows that horny sponges can be successfully replaced by an ordinary two-layer kitchen sponge for dishes. Its hard fibrous side is used for rough grinding, and with a soft foam rubber - for finishing. A kitchen sponge on plaster wears out very quickly, but it costs a penny.

Preparing the walls

Preparation of walls for decorative plaster is carried out in the following order:

Cracks close up.
durable cement putty.
by a falcon in weight WITHOUT LIGHTHOUSES, even waterborne ones; perfect evenness, as for painting or wallpaper, does not need to be achieved - the decor will hide minor imperfections.
Thoroughly remove dust with a dry cloth, then suck it out with a vacuum cleaner with a dust collector.
Under all plasters, except for Venetian ones, they are primed with a deep penetration primer on stone or plaster.
For Venetian plaster - make a substrate with sand, see below.

The lighthouses in the base plaster cannot be used for the following reason: the base layer may not be very even, but must be perfectly uniform. The sealed grooves from the distant beacons, the dried out directed beacons violate this uniformity, which in a couple of years will lead to the peeling of the decor.

It is better to take the base plaster on warm expanded vermiculite. Foam, etc. not strong, and in decorative plaster, like nowhere else, you need to observe an immutable finishing principle: the strong and heavy should not fall on the light and the weak.

Why do you need warm plaster? The decor is inherently heterogeneous, which is why it is sensitive to a temperature gradient (temperature difference) across the layer thickness. Load-bearing walls are now being built more of sand-lime brick and concrete, which have a fairly high thermal conductivity, due to which, with sudden changes in the weather, the gradient may go beyond the permissible limits. If the box is ceramic brick, then they are burning now not with stoves, but with radiators, and they do not make meter-thick walls, which can give the same result.

Venetian lining

The application of natural Venetian plaster requires considerable physical effort, and replacing the sand with marble dust reduces the adhesion of the mixture. In addition, for the Venetian to show itself in all its glory, the substrate under it must reflect light with shine.

The old way of priming under the Venetian is painting with lead or zinc white (tucia) on linseed oil with an admixture of fine quartz sand and ground pearls that have aged and lost their value. Now base surface under the Venetian, they paint with pearl acrylic paint, also with the addition of sand, to improve adhesion due to roughness.

How much sand do you need? About 5-15% by weight. Precisely determine the breakdown on the nail by the dried paint: the nail should go easily and smoothly, and a uniformly rough white speck should remain on it. If individual scratches are visible, there is little or too coarse sand. If it slows down, like on sandpaper, there is a lot of sand.

Can I prime the old way? Not recommended. Firstly, there is no point in replacing pearls with cheaper, but still expensive, pearl stalemate: stalemate is made from the scales of small herring fish - sprat, sprat, herring, kibinago - and by its physicochemical properties it is not pearl at all. Secondly, city apartment- not a family nest. Once again, there will be repairs, and the oil absorbed into the wall will show itself as stains on the wallpaper or paint, and it is very difficult to get rid of them.

How to work

The methods of applying decorative plaster are somewhat different from them for the usual one, and include additional operations: tinting, modeling, rubbing, glazing. It has already been said about glazing; how to make a Venetian, will be said especially later. Here we will talk about general practices self made... Mechanized methods: spraying to get icicles on the ceiling, etc. - the subject of a separate conversation.

There is one more significant difference: decorative can and should be done in multi-layer, for artistic effect. She shouldn't bear anything else on herself, and glazing will strengthen her. There can be up to 15 or more layers as the material allows: the thickness of the finished coating along the relief depressions should not exceed 6 mm. Layers can be either continuous or piecewise, but always wet on wet. Let the previous one have already begun to set, but it should be wet to the sight and to the touch.

Application

The finished "decorative" must be applied, of course, not with a falcon and the rule of the lighthouses, but with a wide spatula on the weight. The mixtures are quite viscous, it is more convenient to pull the spatula with both hands, and small irregularities do not matter, because no further finishing is expected.

The spatula, even or notched, is pulled from bottom to top in vertical or oblique stripes. Unlike the usual one, it is permissible, for the sake of heightening the aesthetic effect, to be applied with rays at random or with a drive to the center. The spatula is pulled with small grooves, swinging across; this will make the mixture stick better to the wall.

Tinting

The applied layer can be tinted (tinted) on top by applying a thin layer of the same mixture with a shaggy roller or a flute brush, but with an additional color scheme and a thinned addition of water. It can be tinted both wet on wet, for molding, and already set, but still wet, for rubbing.

Molding

Sculpting (which can be done with rollers, stamps, or simply with your finger in a latex glove) does more than create relief. Modeling the wet tinted layer accelerates the pigment to the top of the relief, which already gives some color transition.

Rubbing

Rubbing the layer is done for the following:

With a roughing sponge - under the next layer.
With her rough and finishing - to shade the stained color scheme.
With a falcon or a spatula on a barely grasped relief - to smooth its tops into one level and highlight it with color; this is how the plaster of the bark beetle type is rubbed.

Stenciled plaster

Semantic images with plaster can be made using a stencil with a thickness of 1.5-4 mm. The stencil layer can be either final or intermediate. If the previous layer is even, it is easier to make a stencil from cardboard; if embossed - from foam or soft rubber. The mixture is rubbed into the stencil with a narrow spatula or driven in with an end brush. To highlight by color, rub the slightly dried pattern, or vice versa, rub a color scheme into it with a sponge.

Video: applying decorative plaster on a stencil

About drying

Decorative plaster is dried in a ventilated room only in a natural way... Exposure to direct sunlight is unacceptable: in addition to covering open windows with gauze or tulle, you need to arrange a temporary visor above the window or shade screens inside. It is unacceptable to accelerate drying in any way, except for separate areas for craquelure, see below.

You can open your creation for viewing in a day in clear weather or two in cloudy weather, and use the room in a week. For the next layer to set, it takes from 2 to 12 hours, depending on the type of plaster and temperature. 15 hours after application, the layer is considered unsuitable for wet-on-wet use. This is either the finish line, or the whole work is ruined.

Types of plasters

The types of decorative plaster, with all their diversity, are not so difficult to classify, based on the final result:

Venetian - can be considered the progenitor of all others.
Stucco (reviewed earlier).
Refined plasters (fibrous).
Textured.
Structural.
Flock plaster.
Modeling plasters.

Venetian

Venetian plaster was invented back in Ancient rome... In ancient times, massive building material there was marble, from the processing of which a lot of waste remained. Practical Roman women ground it into dust and replace it White sand, which is not so much in nature. Then they noticed that a thin layer was translucent, and they began to apply in layers, carefully rubbing each layer (slave labor was cheap), which made it possible to obtain coatings that were almost translucent like real marble, but suitable for weak and curved walls. Applying piecewise layers with a filler of colored ground stone, travertine and other facing materials were imitated.

Perfected the Venetian technology in the 16th century. one of the titans of the Renaissance, the greatest architect of the West, Andrea Palladio. He was the first to create artistic images using the Venetian technique. Now the Venetian is reborn, which is aided by cheap prices for marble flour (mining companies are vying with each other) and the emergence of inexpensive and low-labor-intensive acrylic paints and varnishes for backing and glazing. The Venetian woman has been described many times and with knowledge of the matter, therefore we will reveal only some secrets.

Craquelure

The Venetian is often artificially aged, making fractures - craquelure. The technology is simple: the layer is covered with a special craquelure varnish (expensive). Freezing, it shrinks and pulls the plaster along with it.

There is a way to reduce the cost of craquelure and make it look more natural without compromising the strength of the coating. But first you need to practice on the races:

The cracked area is dried, constantly visually controlling, with an infrared emitter with a reflector; an ancient electric fireplace bowl will work well.
Cracks were slightly outlined or earlier, depending on experience, the heating is stopped, the cracks will spread themselves.
A plaster compound tinted to black or dark gray with gas soot is rubbed into the cracks with a dental spatula; you can add dark red lead.
The rest of the filler is wiped off with a sponge.
A thin translucent continuous layer without color is applied.

Video: a method of applying Venetian craquelure plaster

Carrara

Don't get carried away with colored spots. If you are not too lazy to apply 10-12 layers, and you already have some skill, take pure white marble flour on lime with a filler, and polish with wax, even a sophisticated connoisseur will not immediately distinguish such a Venetian from the most exquisite Carrara marble, the deposits of which are now almost exhausted.

Veins

Darkish veins on natural marble are inclusions of bituminous marble. Their imitation is easy to obtain artificially: the next portion of the mixture is tinted with gas soot by 5-15%, smears are made with a curved medical spatula and rubbed with a sponge. The next continuous layer without color is required.

Video: a lesson on Venetian plaster

Wax

The Venetian has a serious drawback and at the same time a dignity: she breathes, i.e. hygroscopic. But after all, in the bathroom, you sometimes want to make decorative plaster under some natural stone... Here the inventors turned out to be the French: someone came up with the idea of adding 1 / 4-1 / 5 cellulose (vegetable) fibers, finely ground and boiled in wax, into the filler. This is how the Marseilles wax plaster appeared, in fig. left, completely waterproof.

Replacing cellulose with lignin from wood waste, we then obtained Andalusian wax (in the center), which is coarser in appearance, but also cheaper. Now all "wax" plasters for rooms with high humidity are made ready-to-use on acrylic; their collective name is mizuri-type plasters, on the right in fig.

Video: example of Roman stone plaster

Fibrous

The next step in increasing durability and aesthetics plaster coatings The Italians did it again. Instead of plant fibers, they used animals in the form of silk threads, obtaining a velvety plaster of perfected, on the left in Fig. In modern times, the classic expensive perfected was again replaced with synthetics on acrylic, which is in no way inferior to it.

Ottochento's analog trademarks are velveton (center) and velvetex (right). What is the difference between them, the manufacturers themselves cannot really explain. In common opinion, it is believed that in velveton the fibrous additive is collected in more or less distinct conglomerates, and in velvex it is more or less evenly distributed. Both are sold ready-to-use.

Textured

- invention of the era high tech... In essence, this is no longer plaster, but liquid wallpaper: textured elements are introduced into the finished mixture during manufacture. Textured plaster is applied without features; the finished surface is flat. Most often, rubbing is not required. There are textured plasters that imitate Venetian, but they do not breathe.

The texture can be both chaotic (see the figure on the left), and regular, and even with a claim to expressiveness: leaves, flowers, butterflies, etc. Textured plasters are in a state of rapid evolution in the direction - splashed on the wall from a bucket, dried up, it turned out Gioconda or Venus Botticelli.

Textured plasters are used, as a rule, in the kitchen and in other small rooms with difficult temperature and humidity conditions, but where a colorful, cheerful design is required: they are too expensive for finishing large areas, but absolutely hygienic and hygroscopic. They are not suitable for a bedroom and a nursery - they glare and do not breathe.

Structural

With structural plasters, there is some confusion in the definitions: some refer to them as any embossed plasters, incl. stucco and stencil (see the figure in the paragraph and at the beginning of the text); others consider only self-forming ready-to-use structures as structural, i.e. those that acquire a random unique relief when dried. We adhere to the second point of view, because The technology for applying both is very different: some need to be adjusted by hand in the presence of a fairly developed artistic taste, while others are simply smeared with a spatula, and the final result does not in any way depend on the will and desire of the master.

Self-forming ready-made plasters are manufactured under industrial conditions, but the choice is unusually rich, and the range is constantly expanding. They are made on acrylic with synthetics, suitable for interior decoration of any premises.

Running textures - bark beetle (second and third on the left), terraco, on the extreme right - cheaper due to the mineral filler; are obtained by rolling with a roller and grouting along the top with a spatula. Structural plasters can be easily supplemented with stencil plasters, because the relief is low.

Video: Structural Plastering

Flock

Flock in German is snowflake. Flocks (not ice, of course) are sprayed with a special spray on the plastered surface covered with glue, see on the left in Fig. When the glue dries, poorly adhered flocks are brushed off with a brush or brush and, also from a spray gun, acrylic varnish is applied. Flocks, adhesive and underlayment are sold ready-to-use in sets or individually. In this case, on the packaging of flocks it is indicated with which underlying plaster and on which adhesive they are compatible.

Some craftsmen make flocks themselves, throw them in handfuls and blow them, as soon as the glue begins to set, with a strong narrow jet of air from a vacuum cleaner to gently press down. Homemade flock plaster works well only on an acrylic base; they adhere weakly to silicone or mineral flocks.

Modeling

Modeling plasters are, in essence, a kind of flock: foreign granules are introduced into the ready-to-use mixture during its manufacture. By varying the composition of the mixture, size, material and shape of granules, coatings are obtained "lamb", under a fur coat, " Orange peel"," Rain ", etc., see previous. rice. Application technique - conventional or by spraying.

Today there are many different finishing materials. The most popular of these is decorative plaster.

Its market leadership is due to its many advantages. It is durable, easy to care for, moisture resistant, while its cost is low.

Let's consider how to make decorative plaster yourself.

Types of plaster

This material for decorating rooms and facades can have various properties. Depending on the:

Chemical composition and components.
Texture and style.
Number and size of granules.

Chemical composition and components

Mineral, excellent value for money. Made from cement and lime. In stores, it is sold as a dry mix. Therefore, before starting work, it must be diluted in water.

It is used not only for interior work, but also for decorating facades. Since it contains water-repellent substances.

In addition, it has a number of advantages:

vapor permeability;
fire resistance;
resistant to mechanical damage.

Acrylic plaster is sold ready-made, in the form of a water-dispersible material for decoration.

In its production, a polymer solution is used that connects the filler. This type plaster is tinted, so you can choose any shade.

Silicone is used for decorating external walls. Because, as it has various positive characteristics:

Long service life.
Elastic structure.
Self-cleaning material.
High vapor permeability.
Resistant to weather conditions.

Silicate or mineral plaster is very expensive, but reliable and practical. Since the main component is potassium glass. This will protect the walls from the growth of fungus.

It is customary to use this plaster in the decoration of building facades. But you can find it in the decoration of the interior walls.

If it is not possible to buy a ready-made mixture, then at home you can make decorative plaster from putty. With it, you can create textured images.

Texture and style

Venetian creates walls in marble. In the photo of decorative plaster, you can see how the room is being transformed. It is made from an aqueous solution, lime and marble sand. This type of material is applied only to smooth walls.

Structural is a heterogeneous mass with granules. It is made from latex and water. Its granules can be of any color. The color scheme is color-coded at the factory. However, choosing a color is not difficult, since manufacturers offer a large palette of different shades.

Textured is the most popular among consumers. Because with its help in the interior of the room, you can create a relief or image on the wall.

Note!

Flock turns the wall into a mosaic. As a rule, it is sold in two containers. The first contains glue, the second contains mosaic elements. They are already pre-painted by the manufacturer. The wall is applied in stages, first the glue, then the mosaic particles.

Scaffolding is used in cases where it is necessary to create a certain effect on the surface of the wall. For example, the effect of silk, velor, sandstone. Decorative plaster can be applied to the building facade.

DIY decorative plastering instructions

First you need to complete the preparatory work. It is necessary to remove the old finishing material.

The surface is cleaned, in the presence of cracks and holes, putty. After that, the wall must be treated with a primer.

After all the preparatory work is completed, plaster is applied using a construction tool. The material is laid in horizontal or vertical movements. The thickness of the application is measured by the granules. After application, it dries for about a day.