Sturdy, aesthetically pleasing and durable, stone fencing can be an excellent protection for your home. It is quite within the power of every resident of a country house to build a stone fence, the main thing is to try hard.
Pros and cons of stone fencing
Stone is one of the most common materials used to build fences. Stone fencing is a powerful argument that buyers take into account when buying a home.
Pros of stone fences:
- Strength. It is quite difficult to break or punch a hole in such a fence, you cannot do without special devices and tools, which means that your home will be well protected.
- Durability. A stone fence can last for many years; centuries-old buildings are known that become architectural monuments. Such fences easily endure adverse weather conditions: heat and cold, wind and rain.
- Presentability. Fencing buildings made of stone always catch the eye, because they are beautiful, moreover, they often testify to the wealth of the owners.
- Compatibility with other materials. The stone is easily assembled when building a fence with wood and metal fragments. Often, forged metal delights or wooden elements become decorations of a stone fence.
- Fire resistance. A stone fence will become an effective fence from the penetration of fire into the territory of a suburban area from the outside.
- Environmental Safety. Stone is a natural material, so you can be one hundred percent sure that there is no dangerous effect of stone buildings on human health.
- No size restrictions. A stone fence can be built in the sizes that are required according to the design idea, there are no "restrictions" on the parameters, stones can be laid out to the required height and width.
With all the positive characteristics of this material, some disadvantages of a stone fence should be taken into account:
- High cost. Stone is an expensive material, its installers also value their labor dearly, so a stone fence is a pleasure for people with wealth. There is an opportunity to save money if you independently build such a fence and collect stones for the construction of the fence.
- The "finicky" of stone structures. The significant weight of such buildings implies the presence of a solid foundation, therefore, stone structures need a reliable soil foundation; areas with soil vibrations, with nearby groundwater are unacceptable. A reliable and solid foundation is a prerequisite for the construction of a stone fence.
- The laboriousness of the process (the construction of a stone fence requires a lot of time and effort).
Choice of stone material
Having weighed all the pros and cons of stone fencing structures near houses or summer cottages, it is necessary to decide on the material from which the fence will be erected.
To build a stone fence, you can use:
- cobblestone;
- pebbles;
- limestone;
- sandstone;
- dolomite stone;
- granite, etc.
Each of the listed materials helps to solve certain problems and, accordingly, is suitable for different enclosure structures. An important point when choosing a stone is its cost, which can also be different.
Preparatory stages
Like any serious project, erecting a stone fence with your own hands requires preliminary preparation. First you need to decide on the place and size of the future building, calculate, select and purchase material, acquire the necessary tools. The preparation also includes cleaning and leveling the site for the future fence. Any debris, trees and plants will interfere with the construction of the protective structure.
Based on the cost of the selected material and the dimensions of the fence, we draw up an estimate and estimate whether we can afford such a construction. Of course, a self-built stone fence saves costs for the construction team. Therefore, we will try to do without hired workers, applying our own strength and skills.
Area calculation
- Measure the width of the strip base of the fence and add eight centimeters on each side. For example, 45 + 16 = 61 cm (0.61 m) - this is the width of the foundation part of the fence.
- Measure the length of each side of the fence (from the corner posts). For example, let's take the length of each side - 10 meters.
- The area of the base of each side of the stone fence is considered as 10 m multiplied by 0.61 m. It turns out 6.1 m 2.
- Further, this figure is multiplied by the number of sides of the fence (usually 4, but there may be options if one of the sides is being built by neighbors, etc.) 6.1 x 4 = 24.4 m².
- If the fence is not solid, but there are areas with a wicket or garage door, then subtract their dimensions from the resulting 24.4 m².
- When calculating the area, the area of the pillars is also taken into account (if they are also made of stone).
In general, calculating the area of the foundation of a stone fence is a purely individual matter, every novice builder can cope with this. If you doubt your abilities, contact the specialists who will make all the necessary calculations and draw up a project.
Fence dimensions
Depending on the functions assigned to the stone fence, acceptable dimensions of this structure are selected. Fences can be low, in which case they play a decorative role rather than a protective one. Some owners use stone in the fence to decorate their homes, here we are talking about the decorative function of a stone structure around a house or summer cottage. Such fences can be of completely different sizes and configurations.
The average parameters of a solid solid fence, behind which you can hide from prying eyes, are as follows: height - 2 meters, the width of the spans between the posts - 2.5 meters, the width of the support posts - half a meter.
Material selection
A fence made of cobblestones will be very durable and retain its natural flavor. However, under natural conditions, the choice of color of such a material is not very rich. You can dream up and arrange the cobblestones in shades, or you can not dwell on the color, relying on intuition.
Cobblestone can be obtained by walking through the fields, but it is better to purchase it in specialized stores. Usually they lay out a fence of stone specimens with one flat side, if there is none, then cut the cobblestone. It is desirable that the cobblestones are approximately the same size. This will greatly speed up and simplify the construction process.
For the construction of complex structures, as well as for the design and strengthening of corners, pebbles and gravel should be taken. These small stones are also suitable for laying out patterns in a stone fence. Fences entirely of this small stone are rarely made; it is used to fill a metal mesh in the construction of gabions.
The rubble stone is suitable for playing with the design. Unique beautiful spans with a unique configuration are obtained from the buta. The length of the edges of such stones varies within 55-400 mm, which is used by original designers in their style decisions. Rubble stone can be used both for the construction of the base of the fence, and for its decoration.
Dolomite has a big plus - a flat shape, it is obtained during blasting operations in open pits. Such a stone is more often used as a cladding material, but its use as the basis of a fence is not excluded.
Limestone fencing is easier to build because it is softer than other stones, but this material is not suitable for fencing in humid climates. Limestone (shell stone) does not withstand high humidity and low temperatures, and buildings made of it begin to quickly collapse. If you nevertheless took this stone as the basis for the construction, then in order to extend its service, try to treat the limestone with special compounds - water repellents.
A durable material that is resistant to subzero temperatures is sandstone. It has been used by builders for various works since ancient times. The advantages of this material are in its multifaceted color shades (stones of green-blue, yellow, red, brown color are on sale), which allows them to be used in accordance with the design of the entire site. During construction, you can take sandstone with a different surface - chipped or polished. Sandstone is often used even when laying a foundation, this is due to its high strength.
Calculation of materials
Before proceeding with mathematical operations, you need to determine the entire list of necessary materials (in addition to the stone itself):
- waterproofing material;
- reinforcement for pillars;
- reinforcing bars (d = 10–12 mm);
- boards for the construction of formwork;
- sand, gravel, cement.
On the Internet resources you can find programs that allow you to calculate the required amount of materials.
The base of the fence consists of expanded sections for the posts and the "tape" between them, poured with concrete. Piles are used to strengthen this structure. An example of the calculation can be seen in the figure below. The calculation algorithm can be as follows:
- Calculation of the foundation area of the support pillar - we multiply the values of the width, length and height.
- The total amount of concrete for the racks will be equal to the area of the foundation of 1 pillar, multiplied by the number of supports.
- The volume of concrete mix for the base of the spans between the posts is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of this part of the fence.
- The number of spans multiplied by the number obtained in the previous paragraph gives the total volume of concrete to fill all spans.
- We repeat points 3 and 4 to determine the amount of concrete mix for the piles.
- Adding all the volumes, we find the value of the total amount of concrete for the fence.
Required tool
In order for the work to argue and not stop, try to stock up on everything you need for construction in advance. You will need:
- shovels of various types (shovel, bayonet);
- concrete mixer (or improvised means that replace it);
- sets of containers of various sizes (for concrete, water);
- hammers, sledgehammers (for crushing stones, driving piles, etc.);
- plumb line or level;
- roulette;
- a device for measuring angles (an ordinary large square is suitable);
- screwdriver, nails, screws;
- welding machine (can be replaced with wire) - for fastening reinforcement rods;
- stakes and cord (for marking).
Stages of erecting a stone fence
After carrying out the preparatory work, you can proceed with the actual construction of the fence. This process is time consuming and difficult, so you should be patient and persistent.
Laying the foundation
The strip foundation is the basis and guarantee that the fence will last a long time. This structure must be continuous, even in those places where there will be openings (gates, wickets, etc.).
The sequence of actions when erecting the foundation of the fence is as follows:
- With the help of a cord and pegs, we mark the future fence. You can use the services of professionals to determine the boundaries and locations of the support posts of the fence.
Fence marking is a necessary stage in the construction of a fence
- On the marked area, we dig a trench, the width of which should be 8 centimeters greater than the width of the fence on each side. For example, the width of the fence is assumed to be 30 cm, which means that the trench needs to be dug 46 cm wide.
- At the bottom of the dug hole, lay a layer of sand and tamp it. From the available wooden materials (boards, plywood, etc.), we construct the formwork (slightly higher than the intended strip foundation), we lay the reinforcement.
- Using a special shovel (screw), we make holes for piles up to 70 cm deep and 15 cm wide. We also place sand on the bottom of these holes and tamp them.
- On top of the sand we pour our own gravel 10 cm thick.
On the marked area, we dig a trench, the width of which should be 8 centimeters greater than the width of the fence on each side
- Then we fill the trench with formwork and piles with concrete mixture. The reinforcement must be covered with concrete at least 20 mm. A mandatory action is concrete compaction; for this, a deep vibrator is used. Concrete should be poured in a continuous stream, in one go, avoiding the separation of this process for several days. Hollow concrete cubes - foundation glasses - will help in strengthening the entire fence structure. You can make them yourself, or you can buy them ready-made, but you will have to pay a rather large sum.
- After pouring, we stand for more than a week, while it is advisable to build a blind area - to protect the foundation. You can use sheets of roofing material or thick polyethylene. Periodic moistening of the poured foundation will give the structure additional strength and protect it from cracking.
- After the concrete has set, we remove the formwork and clean the top layer of the foundation from debris and dirt.
Poured concrete is covered with roofing material
Stone preparation
While the foundation goes through the hardening stage, you can not waste time and prepare the stone. Sorting, cleaning and drying of the material are obligatory manipulations during construction. If the stones are too convex, their surface is chipped with a hammer and other tools, trying to give them a flat shape.
Larger stones are laid aside for the installation of support posts, small specimens are prepared for use in the construction of spans. You can also sort the stones by color by dividing the matching color shades into groups.
Installation of pillars
The rigidity of the structure and its reliability largely depend on the support pillars. The racks are installed on concrete bowls that were built earlier. Support pillars can be built in a variety of ways. It is convenient for these purposes to use a sliding formwork (a box made of boards of the required dimensions, without a bottom). This formwork is located so that the channel is in the middle, then the mortar is poured.
The following manipulations are repeated for each row of stones:
- select stones of the right size;
- lay them tightly against the walls of the formwork;
- take out the laid stones;
- prepare a solution;
- stones are laid and fixed with mortar.
Watch the solution carefully - it should not be too liquid. When the formwork is filled to the end with rows of stones with mortar, you need to "build up" the formwork by placing a second wooden box without a bottom on the first one and fastening them with self-tapping screws. All actions are repeated until the second box is full. Then you need to wait at least a day for the resulting part of the pillar to dry out, and continue this process until the support is built at the desired height. The first part of the formwork must be removed, leaving the second, and the third support level must be attached to it, etc. It is necessary to add mortar to the joints between the stones (cement - 1 part, sand - 3 parts). Excess mortar and dirt must be removed with a foam sponge dipped in water.
Photo gallery: stages of installation of support posts of the fence
The first stage of the installation of the pillars: the stones are placed in a sliding formwork and filled with mortar 
After pouring concrete and gaining strength, the formwork is disassembled and rises higher - so that its lower part covers the top of the already cast pillar by a few centimeters 
The final stage: the pillar is cast to the desired height
Stacking stones
In parallel with the installation of the pillars, it is possible to carry out work on the laying of stones in the spans. The optimal size of stones is 20–25 cm. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Apply cement mortar to the base of the foundation (cement: sand = 1: 3).
- Lay out the first row of stones with their flat side facing up.
- Pour a solution between the stones, into which you can add a color scheme of a certain color. In order to avoid solidification of the solution, these manipulations are carried out quickly, without rest.
- After laying one row, they give it time to harden and only after that they continue to lay the stones.
Video: building a stone fence
Tips from experienced builders:
- When working with the solution, make sure that its particles do not fall on the face of the stones. If you notice a solution on the stones, then it must be urgently removed, avoiding hardening. If, nevertheless, areas of stones with a hardened solution have formed, use a metal brush attached to a drill to remove it.
- Start laying out the spans from the outer boundaries.
- Use a cord or rope stretched from the beginning to the end of the span - for orientation in laying the rows of stones so that the fence turns out to be even, without distortions.
- Use a dressing - laying stones of the upper row with support on the stones of the second or third lower row.
- To get an even edge of the fence, select stones of the same height for the last row. The same result can be achieved by using a cement screed.
There is an old way of laying stone that does not require mortar. At the same time, the building will not be fragile, as it might seem at first glance. If you are interested in this method, watch the video on this topic.
Video: laying stone without mortar
Completion of the construction of a stone fence
To make your structure look neat and not look like a pile of stones, you need to give it a finished look. For this, jointing is done. The mortar is used to fill the joints between the stones at different depths, due to which a decorative look of the fence can be achieved.
The most convenient time for such manipulations is 3-4 hours after the stones have been laid; later it will be more difficult to do this, since the solution will become stiff and less pliable. For jointing, trowels, scrapers, a metal brush, foam rubber and a solution of hydrochloric acid (30%) are used, do not forget about safety precautions and put on rubber gloves. To drain excess fluid, special caps are put on the pillars.
Decorating a stone fence is a purely individual matter. You can add decorative elements made of wood, forged fragments, drawings from small stones, giving the fence a special beauty and originality.
Building a stone fence with your own hands is a long and time-consuming process, but the result will delight its creator and everyone around. Try to build a stone fence yourself and you won't regret it!
Man began to build stone structures in ancient times, and they have not lost their popularity at the present time. A stone fence has no analogues in terms of durability and strength - it is practically unaffected by bad weather, does not rust or rot. There is no need to tint the stone every year, unlike a wooden fence.
The downside is the rather large laboriousness of the construction, therefore, the cost of the work on its construction. But if you make a fence with your own hands, the costs will be significantly reduced.
The choice of material for the fence
The most popular materials for building fences are:
- Cobblestone - fragments of basalt or granite of a gray-steel color, which have great mechanical strength and chemical resistance, are poorly processed, and, as a rule, have a rounded shape.
- Dolomite - the color varies from white-yellow to light gray, flat, with well-defined edges, outwardly similar to marble.
- Limestone, or shell rock, is a light-colored, soft, porous stone that is well processed, but very much absorbs moisture.
- Sandstone is a hard stone of a layered structure, it repels moisture well, frost-resistant, and is very popular in the construction of fences.
- Booth - sandstone, limestone or granite of irregular shape. It is often used as an aggregate in the construction of foundations.
The easiest option for work is processed limestone or shell rock. It is much easier to lay out a fence made of stones of the correct shape, reminiscent of a brick, than of shapeless rubble and cobblestone, however, even in the photo, a fence made of stones of irregular shape looks much more original than from identical fragments.
Tools and supplies
For the construction of the fence you will need:
- Cement brand M400;
- Crushed stone and sand;
- Armature 8-12 mm;
- Formwork board, preferably edged;
- Decorating elements - tops, lanterns, fences, etc.
- Large diameter pipe 3-4 meters;
- Concrete mixer, shovel and bayonet shovels, buckets;
- Cord, plumb line, tape measure, level.
- Wire brush;
- Sledgehammers and hammers;
- Grinder with a stone disc.
Preparation and pouring of the foundation
In order for the fence to stand on a solid foundation, it is necessary to pour a strip foundation under it at least 10-20 cm thicker than the fence and at least 20 cm above the soil level.
The foundation is poured like this:
- They mark the territory where the fence will stand with pegs and stretch a cord between them.
- Sod is removed inside the perimeter fenced with pegs, while the total width of the foundation should be at least 50 cm.
- The trench is deepened by 80 cm, and in the places where the posts are installed by another 40 cm.
- Having carefully leveled the bottom of the trench, sprinkle it with sand with a layer of at least 5 cm and tamp it well.
- They hammer off formwork panels with a height of 100-110 cm and install them on the sides of the trench, reinforcing them with struts and struts. You can also drill two holes in the shields on both sides, additionally pull them off at the top with a knitting wire.
- A reinforcing lattice with a square cell of 15-20 cm is installed in the trench using steel bars located in the trench with a pitch of 50 cm.
- In the center of the cross-section of the pillars, steel pipes are placed vertically with the corresponding height of the pillars of length.
- Concrete is made from a mixture of cement, sand, crushed stone and plasticizers using a concrete mixer and poured into a trench.
After a week, the formwork can be removed, but the construction of the fence continues after the concrete has completely hardened for 28 days.
Pillars
In order to speed up the construction process, the pillars are erected synchronously. To erect the pillars, you will need a square or rectangular formwork made of boards 150-200 mm wide, assembled with self-tapping screws.
The algorithm of actions is as follows: after the installation of the formwork, the stones are laid out as closely as possible inside it, and the voids between them are filled with a thick solution.
On top of the first formwork, the same second one is mounted and filled with stones and mortar in the same way. After two to three days, the lower formwork is removed, and the solution is stuffed into the unfilled voids.
The formwork is mounted above and the process is repeated. To protect the poles from the weather, caps made of metal or plastic are used. The whole process of erecting pillars can take up to a month or more, depending on their height.
Walls
Before the construction of the walls, the foundation is marked. The thickness of the wall is at least 10 cm less than the pillar, therefore, the indent from the edge of the pillar inward will be at least 5 cm.Stones are placed symmetrically along the level from the edges of the wall, and a cord is pulled between them.
To make it more convenient to work, the stone is laid with the flat side up, and the gaps between them are clogged with mortar. Rows of stones are laid with a bandage for greater structural strength. The discrepancy between the level and the vertical should not exceed 1 cm by 2 meters of the height of the fence.
Embroidery
For decorative purposes, jointing the fence with a scraper, flat scrapers, foam rubber, rags and a metal brush.
There are three options for joining - deep, shallow and convex. Joining is carried out 4 hours after laying, so that the solution has time to partially set.
It is done as follows:
- Stone and seams are cleaned from excess mortar with a metal brush;
- With the help of a scraper, outwardly aesthetic depressions are made in the solution up to 2 cm deep;
- The stone and seams are washed away with a sponge and rags.
It is not worth ignoring the jointing, because without jointing the fence looks much worse from an aesthetic point of view.
Fences made of stone can be combined with other materials - they can be made in the space between the posts in the upper part of the fence, fences made of corrugated board or wrought metal, as well as wooden gates bound with iron - all this goes well with the stone and successfully complements it.
Photo of stone fences
When the word "fortress" is used, people associate with stone castles surrounded by massive walls, behind which life is hidden from prying eyes. Walls made of natural material reliably protected the inhabitants from enemy attacks. In our time, these functions have not been lost. You can build a stone fence with your own hands not only for protection purposes. Making the site unique is another task of the craftsmen. Stone fences, moreover, are a weighty argument when buying and selling real estate - the fence increases the price. How to make such structures, we will tell in the article.
Advantages and disadvantages of a stone fence
In the case when protective functions are assigned to the fence, the stone becomes the best solution. Structures made from natural materials have advantages and disadvantages.
The stone fence characterizes:
Structural strength... It is unlikely that intruders will have a desire to punch holes in the masonry in order to enter the territory - they will look for easier prey.
Long service life... This is evidenced by archaeological excavations - the fences have been preserved for thousands of years.
Status appearance... Beautiful fences attract the attention of passers-by, forcing them to admire the bizarre types of masonry every time.
Compatibility of natural material with forged metal and wood... This makes it possible to obtain unique works of building art.
The ability to erect structures of any height and thickness.
Fire safety... High fences will not allow fire from neighboring territories and natural fires to spread to the site.
Environmental friendliness... Even though the fence is a street building, taking care of the health of the family will not be superfluous. The stone does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere and soil.
Ask the seller for a quality certificate. Certain lots of granite and marble can produce background radiation. Refrain from buying, even if the radiation is negligible. A stone fence is built for centuries, and a long stay with increased radiation can ultimately affect health.
Disadvantages of natural stone fences:
- high price, which rises sharply if the delivery of building material comes from neighboring regions;
- the impossibility or high cost of erecting structures on some types of soils - heaving, swampy, with a close occurrence of groundwater;
- high labor costs for the mandatory manufacture of the foundation and for work with heavy, sometimes bulky material.
Varieties of stones for construction
If the decision to build a stone fence for the house is made, they start choosing the material. Its varieties:
Cobblestone... In the northern regions, you can assemble it yourself, but it is better to purchase it from trade organizations. In this case, the color will be approximately the same, as well as the size of the "bricks". A feature of cobblestone structures is high strength and unlimited service life.
Pebbles and gravel... Small geometrical dimensions facilitate the use of the material in the manufacture of corners and fences with complex shapes. Fences made of river stone favorably distinguish the coastal zone of home ponds. Butovy... Building material comes in all sizes - from 60 to 500 mm. This property is used to obtain design drawings on the plane of the building. The main part of the wall is made of rubble stone and used for external decoration.
Booth is not a special kind of stone, it is obtained from sandstone, limestone or irregularly shaped granite.
Dolomite... A flat-shaped building material, mined by the method of explosive destruction of rocks. Large pieces are embedded in the base of the wall, and flat ones are often used for external decoration.
Shell rock (limestone)... Not suitable for building foundations and fences in wet areas with cold winters. The material is hygroscopic, it quickly collapses with dampness and sudden temperature fluctuations. Treatment with water-repellent impregnations - water repellents will help to extend the service life.
Sandstone... Possesses high resistance to weathering. Its color palette allows you to create unique structures. There are varieties of stone that are found only in certain areas, and their delivery to a construction site in other regions can become financially unprofitable, for example granite.
Having dealt with the types of stone and having studied their availability in the local building materials market, they begin to choose the design of the future building.
Types of construction
A wide choice of stone allows you to make fences of various designs, while taking into account the possibility of building combined options:
- A fence made entirely of stone. Retaining posts made of the same material are installed every 2.5–3 meters.
- The same type of fence can be made of artificial stone - brick.
- The combination of metal and stone will give the fence a sophisticated, classic look. There are several options here. Pillars are made of stone, and the spans between them are closed with forged or welded gratings, profiled sheets. An option is possible when the pillars and the lower part of the fence are made of stone, and the top of the structure is made of metal.
- Often, wood is used as a decor or part of a fence. This can be a wicket, entrance gate or decorative inserts. If you refuse to paint a stone fence with wood and preserve the natural texture, you can get an antique fence.
- Part of the fence can be made of polycarbonate - this design attracts the eye because of its unusualness.
- A separate type of fences is gabions. The prepared stone is placed in a grid having a different configuration. The advantages of the design include the unusual design solution, the speed of construction, but for installation it is necessary to involve special equipment. As with other fences, the foundation must be prepared.
Construction technology
The construction of any stone fence in a private house or in a country house consists of similar stages:
- Preparatory. At this stage, they choose a building material, prepare a design solution and develop a project, on the basis of which they prepare materials and resolve issues with the lease or purchase of equipment, special equipment.
- Arrangement of the foundation.
- Installation of support pillars.
- Erection of walls between the pillars.
- Finishing.
Preparatory stage
Preparation for the construction of a fence made of natural stone is an important stage, the quality of which determines the cost of purchasing and delivering materials, the durability of the finished structure, and its suitability for purpose. Having calculated everything correctly, they avoid additional deliveries if there was not enough material, or, on the contrary, the area of the site will not be occupied by waste and excess stone.
The choice of building material
The types of materials for construction were described above. What to look for when buying:
- monotony or, on the contrary, different shades will help to choose the right material for the approved design solution;
- the quality of the material - the absence of chips, small chips, broken stones will help to save on payment for building material;
- if you plan to create drawings, choose more small pebbles;
- the physical properties of the building material must correspond to the terrain.
In addition, you will need:
- Cement, for pouring the foundation and sealing joints, the mortar (concrete) is prepared using a cement grade of at least 300.
- Crushed stone for concrete.
- Metal pipes with a diameter of 80 mm for the reinforcement of pillars.
- Foundation fittings.
- Board for formwork, preferably edged, savings on unedged boards are unlikely to be achieved, and time will be spent on processing the wood.
- Concrete mixer, shovels and bayonets, buckets.
- Tool for marking the site and laying stones - tape measure, hammers, sledgehammer, cord, pegs, plumb line.
- Grinder with spare wheels for metal and stone.
Determination of size, calculation of area and amount of materials
On the Internet, you can find sites with free online calculators for the amount of materials for the construction of various structures, including fences. You can use them or focus on the finished project.
We recommend separately counting the volumes for the support pillars and inter-pillar structures, then add the obtained values.
The volume of concrete is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the formwork. The width of the foundation is taken 10–15 cm wider than the wall of the fence. The pillars will be 20 cm wider than the same wall, therefore, the formwork for them will be wider. The depth of the trench below the freezing level is selected only on heaving soils, in other areas, a deepening of 60–70 cm is sufficient.
Above the surface of the soil, the foundation should protrude 15–20 cm. The amount of stone for the fence is calculated in the same way. It is important to understand that less material will be needed because of the seams that are sealed with mortar. When there is a difference in elevation, a separate project is prepared for a site, where the terrain will be taken into account.
The foundation is provided in such a way that adjacent sections of different heights are connected with each other by a reinforcing belt. It is necessary to foresee in advance the location of the gates and entrance gates and in these places to fill the foundation so that there are no "steps" that interfere with the passage and passage.
Foundation device
The stone fence is heavy, so you can't do without a foundation. The base is a reinforced concrete structure reinforced with iron or composite rods. The foundation can be dispensed with only if screw piles are used. The technology is not used in the construction of a stone fence with your own hands.
Preparatory work
At the first stage of construction, the boundaries of the fence are determined, which are designated by pegs with a cord stretched between them. Select the location of the corner posts and the point where the gate and wicket will be located. The fence will look more beautiful if the distances between the support posts are the same. Measure the dimensions carefully between the reinforcing structures.
Earthworks and formwork
Before pouring concrete, formwork is prepared and a mesh of reinforcement is installed in the following sequence:
- In the perimeter fenced with pegs, sod is removed and laid aside, it can be useful for other places or for improving the land after construction is completed.
- Dig a trench 70-80 cm deep, on heaving soils - below the freezing level. The width of the trench is 50-60 cm, the depth at the places where the posts are installed is 100-120 cm.
- Having leveled the bottom, cover it with sand. The coating layer is at least 10 cm. The sand is tamped or thoroughly spilled with water to shrink.
- Formwork is hammered out of the boards. Its height is 15-20 cm above ground level.
- A reinforcing mesh with cells of 15-20 cm, welded from rods of 10-12 mm, is installed between the shields. There should be two nets. The first is fixed at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground. The second is no less than 2 cm deeper than the top layer of concrete. The structure is fixed on vertical sections of reinforcement driven into the ground.
- In the center of the places for the pillars, metal pipes with a diameter of 80-100 mm are vertically installed.
- The parallel walls of the formwork are fastened across with pieces of boards, and on the sides, thrust posts are driven into the ground. For reliability, especially when pouring from a concrete mixer truck, spacers are installed, as well as wire ties.
Mortar preparation and concreting
Self-made concrete mix can be recommended only for pouring small sections of the foundation. The fact is that the formwork must be filled in one go, or at least one day. A heavy structure of stones, built on a foundation that is poured intermittently, can destroy it during further laying.
We advise you to find from friends or rent a deep vibrator. There should be no voids in the body of the foundation, and it is impossible to perform high-quality compaction manually. The technological operation will require the presence of an additional worker. In the hot season, the poured structure is covered with plastic wrap, roofing felt or other moisture-retaining material - it is necessary that the "young" concrete was in a wet state for at least 3-5 days.
Concrete will gain full strength in 28 days, however, it is possible to start building pillars without heavily loading the base in 20 days.
Installation of vertical posts
The first step in making the fence yourself is to install the pillars of the stone fence with your own hands. The strength of the entire future structure depends on correct installation. The procedure is as follows: Formwork is made according to the width of the post. The height of the structure is 50–60 cm, the width depends on the chosen configuration of the fence, 15–20 cm wider than the thickness of the spans. Formwork can be sliding, but this option is recommended for experienced builders.
The formwork is filled with stone, the laying is done as tightly as possible, and the voids are filled with cement-sand mortar of grade 150-200. How to prepare such a composition can be found on the cement packaging. As the filling progresses, the sliding formwork is raised higher or new planks are built up. It is not recommended to erect pillars higher than 1 meter in one day. Work will be resumed in a day. A step-by-step master class can be viewed on our website.
Erection of walls and types of masonry
After the final installation of all the pillars and their drying, they begin to lay the walls. Among all the variety, there are several ways to lay out a stone in the spans.
"Dry" method
As the name implies, the laying of material during the construction of stone fences is carried out without a binder solution. The method is used to strengthen the soil under a hillock, garden zoning, for decorative purposes. Hewn stone is more often used - this way it is easier to choose a material suitable for the bundle. Working with it will take experience.
Flat horizontal
For masonry, stones of an oblong shape are used, located in layers horizontally. The gaps are filled with cement mortar.
Flat vertical
The method is similar to the horizontal one, but in the case of vertical masonry, the stones are placed in accordance with the name.
"Wild"
The term speaks of the shape of the stones used - they all differ in size and geometric shape - "wild". The first layer of a fence made of wild stone is placed in the base on the mortar. The next one is carefully selected for the best adherence to the previous one.
The flat face of the stone must be turned towards the front side of the fence.
The spans are filled in turn. Large stones are installed on the front sides, and the gaps are filled with a mixture of cement, sand and stones. The work is suspended at the beginning of the solidification of the solution in the lower rows, at this moment the joining is carried out.
Tesovaya
Plank masonry is carried out according to the previous "wild" technology, but to give the desired shape, the stones are chipped off. For fitting, you can use a grinder with a stone disc.
Butovaya
For rubble masonry, formwork is made with a height of 50-60 cm. The gaps between the laid large stones are filled with fragments, gravel and poured with mortar. After that, it is increased to the same height. The work is resumed. The method is convenient when erecting high fences.
Embroidery
Joining is a mandatory technological operation when erecting fences made of natural stone. For finishing, apply:
- metal brushes:
- trowels;
- guillemots;
- jointing.
Finishing works begin no later than 3-4 hours after laying, otherwise the solution will have time to "grab" and it will be difficult to clean the stone from it. First, clean the masonry with a metal brush from the remnants of the cement mortar.
You can fill in the seams by using a plastic bag with a cut-off corner. The solution, mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream, is simply squeezed out of the bag into the voids. After the joints have hardened, the fence is washed with acid solutions (for example, hydrochloric acid) or with special agents for cleaning concrete. Work in rubber gloves to avoid chemical burns.
In the article, we tried to tell you how to properly make a stone fence for a summer residence. After completing the step-by-step instructions, you can build a fence - cheap and reliably protecting from prying eyes and uninvited guests.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
"My home is my castle!". But in order to fully implement a competent saying, you should seriously think about a fence - reliable, safe and aesthetically beautiful. How to choose a building material and the construction technology of the structure itself is the first thing to decide, applying the maximum of creative ingenuity and skills.
It is important to remember, "everything new is well forgotten old." Hundreds of centuries ago, our ancestors knew exactly how to build a carefree and at the same time durable fence. It is the fragments of stone fences that have survived to our time, demonstrating their excellent stable characteristics. And all because the stone is a material of natural origin, the reliability of which has been tested by time. But back to the main point. How to build a stone fence with your own hands?
Construction technology
The technology for the construction of a stone fence provides for:
- marking the fence;
- laying the foundation;
- erection of a fence cloth.
Stone fence foundation
Before starting the construction of the fence, the first thing to do is to make a markup, which includes the creation of a preliminary drawing plan indicating the length and height of the fence, not forgetting about the gate and gates, and then proceed to dig a trench under the foundation. It should be borne in mind that natural stone is a fairly strong and heavy building material, so the foundation must be designed for the appropriate load in order to ensure the strength and reliability of the structure.
As shown in the photo, to build a stone fence with your own hands, it is enough to adhere to 35-40 cm of the width of the trench and 70 cm of depth. When erecting a fence with a height of more than 2 meters, it is recommended to increase the depth of the trench by 10 cm with each meter of the fence. In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the foundation, it is worth sprinkling the bottom of the trench with rubble or sand 3-5 cm thick and laying the frame from the reinforcement. Having installed the formwork, proceed to filling with mortar.
IMPORTANT! The finished foundation must completely grab, so stone laying must be started after a week.
DIY stone fence
After about 10 days, it is necessary to start the construction of the formwork for the support pillars, after which it is installed on the foundation with fastening to the grillage and the next stage is carried out - laying.
To build a stone fence with your own hands, you should use a solution of cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 3. For the purpose of aesthetic decoration, you can use brown pigment: 4 tablespoons of pigment are used for 10 buckets of cement mortar.
The implementation of the masonry is carried out by setting stones with the flat side outward, tightly fitting to each other and correcting the shape with a hammer. During masonry, voids are filled with sand-cement mortar. You should pay attention that this mixture does not fall on the very surface of the stone, and if this happens, wait until it is completely dry and remove with a special metal brush. In no case should water be used, as it can get inside the stone together with the solution and change the color of the natural color of the stone block.
Based on the fact that the speed of construction of a stone fence by specialists is about 35 days per 100 meters, it is necessary to call for help from several assistants so that the masonry is not subject to solidification. In case of termination of masonry for any compulsory circumstances, it is worth sprinkling it with water before starting work.
The use of natural stone in construction has positive and negative aspects. If, in particular, we consider the construction of a fence, then the following are considered the undoubted advantages of the material:
- The wear rate of this material is practically zero. This is confirmed by the amazing preservation to this day of stone buildings with a long history.
- Without losing its quality, the stone can withstand any climatic conditions, be it wind, frost, rain or summer heat.
- The natural essence of the material indicates its environmental safety for humans and other creatures.
- A stone fence is not afraid of fire, so the structure can prevent the spread of fire to the site.
- The stone fence has an impressive look and is in perfect harmony with the buildings and the surrounding landscape.
- The cost and shades of natural stone provide ample opportunities for its selection.
What stone to use for mounting a fence
The stone used for fences is very different. It can be granite, cobblestone, shell rock, quarry, pebble or sandstone. A separate group is represented by an artificial stone made from natural minerals of a fine fraction. Each species has its own texture, hardness, shape and color.
The main types of stone for building a fence:
- Granite... This is an expensive stone, but its density is comparable only to the hardness of a diamond and amounts to 2700 kg / m 3. The mineral is of magmatic origin and contains 20-30% quartz, plagioclase and sodium spar. Its color palette is presented in black, red, yellow or blue shades. Granite can be sawn and sanded. In addition, the mineral can withstand 300 freeze and thaw cycles without disturbing its structure. For this reason, many monuments are made of this material.
- Cobblestone... It has a reddish brown color, high strength and sizes ranging from apple to soccer ball. Sometimes larger, irregular cobblestones are found. They are called boulders. Due to the absence of sharp protrusions, they in the wall of the fence provide it with a rough surface. To obtain a smooth wall, the stone is split with a sledgehammer and laid out in places of the break.
- Rubble stone... It consists of quartz particles compressed naturally over thousands of years. Booth is mined in quarries by explosion. Therefore, a stone always looks like a large, irregularly shaped shard. Its dimensions vary between 150-450 mm. Booth is durable, water and frost resistant. If it is processed by firing, the color of the mineral will become crimson red, suitable for decorating a basement or facade.
- River stone... It is mined on the shores of natural reservoirs. The main differences are the roundness of the shape and the rich range of colors. Using this wisely when building a fence, you can create impressive elements of its masonry. The river stone is immediately ready for laying and does not require pre-treatment.
- Sandstone... This natural sedimentary rock contains sand, quartz and calcite. The high strength of sandstone allows it to be used even when constructing a foundation. It is due to the fine-grained structure of the mineral. Sandstone is a flat stone, it is distinguished by an irregular shape and thickness of samples from 15 to 80 mm. The natural color of the breed is usually gray, light brown or greenish, less often black. Patterns and smooth stains are clearly visible in the structure of the stone. Sandstone is not afraid of fire; changes in its structure can occur naturally 70-80 years after mining.
- Fake diamond... It has a low weight compared to the mass of natural minerals. From clay, dyes and mineral additives, ceramic granite is obtained by firing - a stone for facing. Agglomerates are made from sand, stone chips, polyester resin and synthetic dyes. For strength, quartzite is added to the composition. The natural look of the tiles is given by silicone templates, which are molds for molding products. No special equipment is required for the installation of the cladding. In appearance, the finished structure is difficult to distinguish from a stone fence built from natural materials.
- Shell rock... It is an exclusively organic mineral formed by fossilized layers of prehistoric marine organisms - shells and plankton. Shell rock has a porous structure of yellow or light brown color. When mined, the stone has a regular rectangular shape. This is due to the fact that it is easily cut out of the rock mass. The size of each block is 380x180x180 mm. Depending on the density, the shell rock has markings from M-15 to M-35. The densest stone contains a minimum of sand and is marked with the number 35. Due to the ancient marine origin, the shell rock is saturated with iodine and salt, they have a beneficial effect on the human body. Therefore, a site fenced with a wall made of such a stone becomes a comfortable area for life. It is the only stone that successfully resists radiation.
Stone fence installation technology
It includes the determination of the location of the fence, its dimensions, the selection and calculation of the required materials, as well as the construction of the fence itself, which begins with earthworks and foundation pouring and ends with stone laying.
Preparation for construction
The location of the fence is usually indicated in the documents of the BTI approving its construction. If there are any, it is possible in the future to avoid disputes with neighbors about the border of the territories. If the documents are missing, they need to be processed. After that, a drawing should be made or a diagram of the future fence should be drawn up indicating its length, the location of the gate, wicket and a preliminary calculation of the necessary materials.
The place for the fence must be cleaned of stumps, debris, and then leveled. In accordance with the previously prepared scheme, it is necessary to mark the foundation for construction on the ground. This will require pegs and a cord. With their help, it should be noted the location of each rack of the planned fence, including the entrance. The cord pulled over the pegs will allow you to do this neatly and evenly.
It is not difficult to calculate the area of the strip foundation for a stone fence for a house. First, you should determine its area between the posts, and then - the total area of the bases of all fence posts. It is important to take into account that the width of the tape must be taken more than the thickness of the fence by 16 cm, that is, 8 cm on each of its sides. For example, if a stone fence is 400 mm thick, the width of its foundation should be 560 mm.
When calculating, the width of the gate should be subtracted from the length of the fence: a strip foundation is not needed in this area.
Selection and calculation of materials for the fence
As an example, we will choose a bottle as a material for a fence. It has all the necessary properties: it fits well into the landscape, has the necessary relief, emphasizing its natural origin.
The optimal dimensions of one section of a stone fence are: height - 2 m, width - 2.5 m. There are enough parameters for it to be strong and at the same time high. Knowing the dimensions of the fence section, it is easy to calculate its entire area.
Having decided on the number, location of fence posts and the area of its foundation, you can calculate the required amount of concrete to support the structure. In this case, one should take into account the additional amount of concrete mixture, which is necessary for pouring the base under the pillars. The result should be a strip-pile foundation with extensions for stone pillars.
To calculate the amount of the mixture, you need to know the height and width of the foundation tape, as well as the dimensions of its extensions. For convenience, calculations are recommended in the following order:
- Determine the volume of concrete mix for the foundation of one pillar, and then for all;
- Do the same with the spans located between the pillars;
- Determine the volume of the mixture for one, and then all piles;
- By adding the results of arithmetic calculations for all pillars, spans and piles, obtain the required concrete consumption.
- The most durable and durable stones of rocks.
- Heavy stones are inconvenient to stack, small stones in the fence will give many seams. Therefore, you need to choose something in between, paying attention to the weight and shape of the material.
- The frost resistance of the stone must withstand at least fifteen complete cycles.
- When purchasing, the material must be sorted by type, color and size. This is very convenient in further work, since during installation it will take less time to find the desired sample.
Equipment and tools required for work: a concrete mixer, shovels, a sledgehammer and a hammer, a square and a level, trowels and a screwdriver, knitting wire, screws and nails.
Construction of the foundation for a stone fence
Using the cords stretched over the stakes as a guide, you can start building a stone fence with your own hands. The first step is to dig a long trench for the foundation of the structure. Its width should be 45-50 cm, and its depth should be 70 cm. The first parameter is taken with a small margin relative to the width of the concrete tape for formwork installation.
The bottom of the finished trench should be leveled and vertical cavities should be dug in it for piles 0.7 m deep and 15 cm wide.The bottom of these holes then needs to be compacted and covered with a 5 cm layer of sand.A sand cushion of the same thickness should be made in the trench. For better compaction, it is recommended to moisten it abundantly with water.
On top of the sand cushion, it is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick, and in the pits install channels with a section of 60x60 mm, which will serve as load-bearing reinforcing rods of the stone fence posts.
After that, you need to make from 4 rods of reinforcement 10 mm in diameter frames around the bottom of the channels. The reinforcement rods should rise 20 cm above the pits.
The walls of each hole under the pile must be covered with waterproofing. To do this, you can roll roofing material into a tube, bypassing the reinforcement and the channel in a circle. At the same time, such insulation will play the role of formwork. Instead of roofing material, you can use a suitable piece of asbestos-cement pipe.
After completing this procedure, concrete can be poured into the pile cavity. After it has solidified, you should start making the concrete foundation tape.
The work must begin with the manufacture of formwork from plank panels, plywood and spacers. The height of the structure should be greater than the upper level of the future foundation. Then, reinforcing cages must be placed in the formwork, each of which is a volumetric figure consisting of longitudinal and transverse rods.
Longitudinal reinforcement is load-bearing, therefore it has a larger diameter. The frames should be installed with an overlap of the longitudinal rods and connected with a knitting wire. It is imperative to leave a gap of 5 cm between the bottom of the frame and the crushed stone cushion of the trench. Pieces of brick or small stones can be used as spacers for this.
The finished formwork with frames must be poured with concrete. It is advisable to do this in one go. Otherwise, the polymerization of the binder will be uneven, which can cause cracks in the concrete tape. After pouring, there should be no protruding reinforcement sections on the concrete surface.
The time to build up its strength is from three to seven weeks. It depends on the outside temperature. To protect the hardening concrete from the rapid evaporation of moisture from it, the poured formwork must be covered with plastic wrap or roofing felt on top for 3-4 days. The finished concrete strip can be freed from the formwork and moved on to the masonry of the fence.
Features of stone masonry
Work should begin with the manufacture of posts using sliding formwork. It can be put together from boards in the form of a box without a bottom, with a side length corresponding to the dimensions of the cross-section of the future pillar. When installing the formwork, the fence post channel must pass through the center of the "box" - this is a prerequisite.
The first layer of rubble stones must be laid in a wooden box, pressing the front part of the piece materials as tightly as possible to its inner walls. The gaps between them should be minimal. After collecting all the stones of the first row, they should be fastened in the formwork with cement mortar. You should not make it liquid. The solution should have the consistency of a thick porridge. For its preparation, it is recommended to take 1/2 bucket of sand and fine gravel for a third of a bucket of cement.
The next layers of stones must be laid in the same way: select samples by size and fix them on a solution. After filling the formwork with masonry to the top, mount its second level and repeat the whole procedure again. Previously, both wooden boxes must be fastened together with screws so that the elements of the sliding formwork do not move relative to each other.
After filling both boxes with stones, it is necessary to interrupt the process of erecting the column for a day, giving time for the polymerization of the cement mortar in the masonry. Then the first formwork box should be removed, leaving the second in its place. You will need to mount the third level of formwork on it. Rearranging the boxes in this way, it is worth bringing the laying of the pillars to the design height.
After freeing the dried masonry from the formwork, the external gaps between the stones must be repaired. The ratio of sand and cement in the solution for this type of work should be 3: 1. The finished part of the column must be wiped with a sponge soaked in water to remove excess cement mixture.
The base of the fence or its entire span must be laid out with bandaging of the seams from the second row of the masonry of the pillar. After the installation of one or two of its rows, it is recommended to withstand the setting solution.
When the required height of the masonry fence is reached, its top must be leveled. To do this, you can use pieces of stone, split with a sledgehammer, or an ordinary cement screed.
How to make a stone fence - watch the video:
Using natural or artificial stone, you can build a fence, as they say, "for centuries." And if you take into account the design methods of work, combining the types, using the color of the stones and their shape, you can build an original structure. And most importantly, all this is achievable on our own.
