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Ways of joining wooden parts. Connections of elements of wooden structures Methods of fastening boards to each other

Wooden parts are used in many products. And their connection is an important process on which the strength of the entire structure depends.

Dozens of different compounds are used to make furniture and other wood products. The choice of the method of joining wood parts depends on what the product should be in the end and what kind of load it should carry.

Connection types

When connecting wooden parts need to remember important point- always a thin part is attached to a thick one, but not vice versa.

According to the mutual arrangement of the elements, the following methods of joining wood parts are distinguished:

  • building - increasing the height of the part;
  • splicing - elongation of the workpiece;
  • rallying - increasing the width of the element;
  • knitting - connection at an angle.

The methods of joining wooden parts in the manufacture of furniture are most often used as follows:

  • gluing;
  • "dovetail";
  • end-to-end;
  • groove;
  • overlap;
  • deaf on thorns;
  • through spike.

Let's consider the technologies of some compounds in more detail.

Splice lengthwise

This kind of wooden parts has some nuances. In essence, this is the elongation of elements in the horizontal direction. Splicing can be:

  • End-to-end - the ends are cut at right angles and aligned with each other. A bracket is hammered into both beams (logs).
  • Oblique butt - the cuts are made at an angle, and the ends are fastened with a pin or nail.
  • End butt with a comb.
  • Straight overlay - the cutting length is 1.5-2 times greater than the thickness of the bar (log).
  • Oblique pad - the ends are cut at an angle and fixed with bolts.
  • A lining with an oblique cut - at the ends of the parts, end ridges are made, having a width and length of one third of the thickness of the bar.

Height extension

From the name it is clear that the essence lies in lengthening the beams or logs in the vertical direction. The axes of the elements are on the same vertical line. The types of building are as follows:

  • Build-up end-to-end. A barbed pin is inserted at the sides to absorb accidental loads.
  • Extension with one or two thorns. The width and height of one spike must be at least one third of the thickness of the bar. The depth of the nest is slightly more than the height of the thorn.
  • Growing in half a tree. The ends of both logs must be cut to half their thickness by 3-3.5 diameters in length.
  • Build up the tongue. In one beam, you need to cut a fork into which you need to insert the correspondingly cut end of another workpiece. The connection itself must be wrapped in tin.

Rallying in width

Used to increase the width of the product. When using rallying methods, it is important to pay attention to the location of the tree's annual rings. It is important to alternate the boards depending on their direction. Rallying options are as follows:

  • End-to-end - details need to be cut and squared in a square.
  • In tongue and groove - the height and width of the ridge is equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the board.
  • In a hacksaw - the edges need to be trimmed under acute angle to the wide plane of the board.
  • A comb with a height of 1/3 to half of the board.
  • A quarter with a ledge equal to half the thickness of the board.
  • In the groove with slats - in each board, select the grooves into which you need to insert a strip that has a width of twice more depth groove.

Knitting

Knitting is used when it becomes necessary to join parts at an angle. Types of knitting are as follows:

  • knitting in half a tree using a secret thorn;
  • knitting in a half-paw;
  • single and double slotted tenons;
  • slotted paw.

to the butt

The easiest way to put two pieces together. Right angle joining of wood pieces is done using this method. The surfaces of the two parts are carefully matched to each other and pressed tightly. Wooden parts are connected with nails or screws. Their length should be such as to pass through the first part and go deep into the second by about 1/3 of the length.

For the fastening to be reliable, it is necessary to drive in at least two nails. They need to be placed on the sides of the center line. The thickness of the nail should not cause the wood to crack. Therefore, it is recommended to pre-make holes with a diameter of 0.7 of the thickness of the nail used.

To enhance fixation, grease the surfaces that are connected with glue. For rooms that will not be exposed to moisture, you can use carpentry, casein or skin glue. If the product is used under conditions high humidity it is better to use a moisture resistant glue, for example, epoxy.

Overlay T-joint

To make such a connection of wooden parts, you need to lay one workpiece on top of another and fasten them to each other using bolts, screws or nails. You can arrange wooden blanks both at a certain angle to each other, and along one line.

To keep the details from changing, use at least 4 nails. If there are only two nails, then they are driven in diagonally. For a stronger hold, the nails must go through both parts, and the protruding ends must be bent and deepened into the wood.

Half-tree connection

To make such a connection of two wooden parts, certain skills and experience are required. It is performed as follows. In both blanks, samples are made with a depth that corresponds to half of their thickness. The sampling width must be equal to the part width.

The method of joining wooden parts in a half-tree can be performed under different angles... In this case, it is important to ensure that the angle is the same on both wooden blanks, and the width corresponded to the width of the part. Due to this, the parts are tightly pressed against one another, and their edges are located in the same plane.

In addition, such a connection can be complete or partial. In the case of a partial connection, the end of one blank is cut at a certain angle, and at the end of the other, a corresponding cut is made. Such compounds include an angular mustache in a half-tree. The bottom line is to trim both studs at an angle of 45 °, as a result of which the seam between them is located diagonally. When using this method, you need to be especially careful, and make the corner cuts special tool- miter box.

Cleat

Such wooden parts are used for fixing planks or for flooring. The edge of one board has a spike, and the edge of the other has a groove. Accordingly, the fastening occurs when the tenon enters the groove. This connection looks very neat, since there are no gaps between the boards.

Making tenons and grooves takes some experience. And besides, a special machine is required for manufacturing. Therefore, it is easier to purchase ready-made parts.

Socket-tenon connection

The most commonly used method of joining wooden parts. This joint is strong, rigid and looks as neat as possible. To make such a connection, you need to have some skills and experience, as well as be attentive. An improperly made socket-tenon connection is fragile and looks ugly.

Its essence is as follows. At the end of one workpiece, a groove is drilled or hollowed out, and a spike at the end of the other. It is better when the elements are of the same width. If the thickness is different, then the spike is made in a thin part, and the groove, respectively, in a thick one.

Spike Sequence:

  • Using a thickness gauge, draw two parallel lines on the side of one workpiece. The distance should be the width of the future spike. For its evenness, markings should be made on both sides.
  • Most optimal tool for making thorns - a hacksaw with a narrow blade and fine teeth, or bow saw... During operation, the teeth of the tool must pass along the inner edge of the marking line. For convenience, it is better to clamp the part in a vice. It is best to make the spike slightly larger than the required size. Then, if necessary, you can remove the excess. But if the spike is shorter, then the whole process will need to be repeated again.
  • Using a chisel or chisel, a socket (groove) is made in the second part. Naturally, the dimensions of the groove must correspond to the dimensions of the tenon. It is best to drill holes along the entire perimeter of the groove before starting chiselling. The edges are neatly cut with a chisel.

If the connection of the wooden parts is done correctly, then the surfaces of the edges of the thorns adhere tightly to the walls of the nest. This gives good adhesion when gluing. In order for the thorns to fit more tightly, their dimensions should be 0.2-0.3 mm larger than the socket dimensions. If this value is exceeded, the bowstring may split; if the tolerance is less, the mount will lose its strength during operation.

In addition, such a connection also involves gluing and fastening with screws, nails or wooden dowels. To simplify work, holes should be drilled before screwing in the screws. The heads of the screws are hidden in a recessed hole (made with a countersink). The pilot hole should be 2/3 of the screw diameter and less than 6 mm (approximately) of its length.

Gluing

The gluing of wooden parts is carried out as follows:

  • The surfaces to be glued are cleaned with a lint-free cloth, and roughness is smoothed with fine emery.
  • Using a cardboard stick, apply the wood glue evenly thin layer for all necessary surfaces.
  • Glue-smeared surfaces should be rubbed against each other. This will provide an even touch and a strong bond.
  • The parts must be pulled together so that the retention at the joints is reliable. Measurement of the diagonals will make sure that the corners are straight. They must be equal. If this is not the case, the position of the elements needs to be corrected.
  • The connection is strengthened by drilling pilot holes into which finishing nails or screws are driven. The screw heads must be recessed; for this, the holes must be bored. The nails are deepened using a punch.
  • Holes with nails are covered with wood putty. The holes bored for the screws are closed with wooden plugs made of hard rocks smeared with glue. When the glue or putty is dry, the surface is smoothed with emery so that it is smooth and then varnished.

Required tools and fixtures

The tools for execution are very diverse. They are chosen depending on the type of work performed. Since in the carpentry the processed elements are larger than in the joinery, accordingly, the tool must be suitable.

To connect wooden parts, use the following:

  • axe;
  • planer, straight and curved planes, bear, scherhebel - more thorough surface treatment;
  • chisel - chiselling holes and sockets;
  • chisel - for cleaning cuttings;
  • drills with different tips - for through holes;
  • various saws - for sawing up and down;
  • hammer, hammer, sledgehammer, mallet;
  • square, compass, level and other auxiliary tools;
  • nails, metal staples, bolts with nuts, screws and other products for fastening.

Conclusion

In fact, there are many more ways to connect wooden pieces of furniture or other structures. The article describes the most popular execution methods and technologies. It is important to remember that the connection of wooden parts for painting or varnishing must be carefully prepared, and all fasteners must be strong and made to last.

The tree is widely used in various areas of human household activities. Wooden structures are especially widely used in construction. However, any wooden structures consist of separate parts that must be connected together in one way or another.

There are several types of connections. But you need to learn one rule: before starting work, you need to carefully mark out future cuts and always follow the markup. In the finished product, the parts must fit exactly and tightly.

Ways of joining boards and small bars: 1 - "end-to-end" (end-to-end); 2 - "groove and ridge"; 3 - "on the mustache"; 4, 6 - "jagged" glue; 5 - "half-tree"; 7 - "on the rail"; 8 - overhead "direct lock"; 9 - overhead "oblique lock"; 10 - "straight" and "oblique" tension locks.

The simplest and relatively fragile is the butt joint. For this connection, the ends of the parts to be fastened are made clearly rectangular, and the ends are processed with a plane.

A mustache joint is similar to a butt joint, but here the ends of the parts are chamfered at a 45 ° angle. For accurate marking, a device called a yarunok is used. Such a connection is reinforced with a plywood plate or a metal square. Reinforce the mustache connection with inside square or triangular bar.

More durable connections include connections "in the patch" by making cuts. If the parts to be joined are of the same thickness, then the cuts are made on both parts by half their thickness. In the case when one part is thicker than the other, the cut is made only in a thicker part. To increase the strength, the parts are glued together and additionally fastened with wooden pins or screws.

If it is necessary to obtain a T-shaped connection, use a "half-tree" overlay. In this case, both parts are cut off if they are of the same thickness, or a thicker part is cut with different thicknesses of the elements being fastened.

The strongest joints that have come down to the present time from ancient times are joints with through thorns, on two insertable round thorns and by the method of median knitting with a single thorn. Parts connected by a straight through thorn are additionally fastened with pins and glued. To make a connection on two round plug-in tenons, a template plate made of plywood or thick cardboard is used to accurately drill holes for the tenons. Median knitting with a single spike can be deaf, if you need to hide the end of the spike on front side, and through, which is much stronger than deaf.

For box joints, spike joints with straight and oblique ("dovetail") spikes are used. Despite the higher labor intensity, the connection with oblique tenons is more durable and reliable.

For reliability, all joints can be reinforced with pins, gluing, nails, screws, bolts and a combination of these methods of strengthening joints.

The dowel is made in the form of a wooden rod with slightly pointed ends of hard wood. If the product will subsequently be painted or varnished, then the outer end of the dowel is recessed and putty or a blind hole is drilled for the dowel.

Before gluing, the parts are thoroughly dried, the surface is cleaned of dirt, grease and oil stains, dust and roughened with a rasp for better adhesion. Moreover, hardwood parts are glued more liquid composition, a soft wood- thicker because it absorbs moisture much better. The surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly coated with glue, which will significantly increase the strength of the connection. The adhesive layer should not be too thick or too thin. This will significantly degrade the quality of the connection. The glue is applied in a uniform, dense layer without breaks. For reliable adhesion, the product must be kept for at least a day before being further processed.

For gluing, use carpentry or casein glue... Joiner's glue is not waterproof and at high humidity finished goods may come unstuck. Therefore, it is recommended to use casein glue, devoid of this disadvantage. In addition, casein glue is somewhat cheaper, and slightly surpasses carpentry in adhesion strength.

To achieve special strength, the joints of wooden structures are strengthened with nails, screws and bolts. The length of the nail or screw is selected 3 to 5 mm shorter than the total thickness of the parts to be joined, and when connecting parts of different thicknesses, the length of the fastening hardware should be 2 to 4 times the thickness of the thinnest part.

It should be borne in mind that screws and nails screwed in or driven across the grain hold the parts better.

The part of the bolt that extends beyond the connected parts should be slightly larger than the thickness of the nut. Washers are placed under the bolt heads to protect the wood from crushing. The splines of the screw heads are parallel to the wood fibers. It is advisable to place the slots of all screws on the same straight line or parallel to each other. Before screwing in thin screws or hammering in thin nails, it is recommended to make signal holes with a smaller diameter.

The most durable connections are screws. Care must be taken to avoid splitting the tree. To this end, do not drive in and screw in screws and nails close to the edge and to each other.

All photos from the article

In this article, we will give an overview of what are the possible options for connecting wood products. And there are a great many such ways, from simple connection end-to-end to the most complex dovetail joint. It is important to remember that not all of them can be done independently, but the information below will definitely not be superfluous.

Reliable coupling is a guarantee of strength and reliability for any structure

We list the acceptable options

All of them are distinguished by their strength and complexity, for example, the cabinet body is assembled with a seam or butt joint, less often they use a "groove" or "mustache" alignment. But for the manufacture of a door frame or panel, the skill of the spike joint is useful.

The following are the methods for joining wooden parts.

Butt joint of parts

Butt registration is called edge pinning. For this, fasteners and glue are usually used. But the butt joint is not very reliable, so it should be strengthened, which is not so difficult to do.

It is desirable to strengthen the fastening "end-to-end" metal mount: corners and screws

This method is commonly used when assembling a cabinet front frame, where strength is not important since the frame parts are securely attached to the cabinet itself. The butt joint of wooden structures is usually reinforced with lamellas or dowels, which are able to combine separate parts during gluing.

Fastening of parts "in a mustache"

This combination has some differences from the previous one. When gluing the surface, the parts are beveled at an angle of 45 ° with respect to the axis. The connection of wooden parts "in a mustache" must also be strengthened with additional fasteners.

For your information! Typically, this method of joining is used when it is necessary to join two pieces of molding in a corner.

Strengthening the connection of wood parts

As mentioned above, you can strengthen using ordinary wooden dowels... Peg fortifications are usually made with the help of two pegs glued into one and the other end of the crossbar, in vertical posts, into their corresponding slots. There is a specific instruction for making such connections:

We mark the nests for the dowels:

  1. For a clear marking, it is necessary to attach the parts to be fastened to each other.
  2. Draw a line with a pencil, marking the places for the dowels.

  1. Extend a line to the edge of each of the blanks using a square.
  2. We drill out the nests for the dowels:
  • In order for the nest to be located exactly in the middle of the wooden part, it is necessary to use a jig for drilling.
  • In order for the socket to have the required depth, it is necessary to use a stopper sleeve.

Advice! If you do not have a locking collar, you can replace it by slipping a small piece of plastic over the drill bit.

  1. We collect the details:
  • It is necessary to apply glue to the dowel and insert it into the corresponding slot of the first part.
  • We connect the parts together.
  • Clamp.
  • We leave for a while to allow the glue to dry.

Strengthening the connection with lamellas

When comparing the types of joints in wooden structures, lamellar joining certainly wins. Let the price of such connections be a little higher, but it is very easy and convenient to work with them.

Lamellas are compressed wood in the form of flattened balls. The nests for such balls are cut out using a special lamellar machine. In this case, the hole turns out perfect shape... And due to the fact that the lamellas are slightly shorter than the nest, the alignment of parts when gluing is more accurate. It is very uncomfortable.

Detail is the smallest unit in the woodworking industry made from wood. Parts are made according to the dimensions indicated in the drawings in order to obtain products after assembly. Parts are connected with great precision.

Connections, by their constructive nature, are called landings. Joints in timber structures are defined by five types of fits: tight, tight, sliding, loose, and very loose.

Nodes- these are parts of structures at the joints of parts. Connections of wooden structures are divided into types; end, side, corner T-shaped, cruciform, corner L-shaped and box corner joints.

Joinery connections have over 200 options. Here, only the joints that are used in practice by joiners and carpenters are considered.

End connection (extension) is such a connection of parts along the length, when one element is a continuation of the other. Such connections are smooth, serrated with spikes. Additionally, they are fixed with glue, screws, overlays. Horizontal end connections withstand compressive, tensile and bending loads (fig. 1, 2, ... 5.).

Compression Resistant Bar End Connections

a - with a straight overlay in a half-tree; b - with an oblique pad (on the "mustache"); c - with a straight overlay in a half-tree with a joint at an obtuse angle; d - with an oblique lining with a joint in a thorn
rice. one

Tensile Beam End Joints (Build-Up)


a - in a straight patch lock; b - in an oblique patch lock; c - with a straight overlay in a half-tree with a joint in an oblique thorn (in a dovetail)
rice. 2

Bend Resistant Bar End Connections


a - with a straight overlay in a half-wood with an oblique joint: b - with a straight overlay in a half-wood with a stepped joint; c - in an oblique patch lock with wedges and a thorn joint
rice. 3

Splice joint with reinforcement wedges and bolts


Compression bar end connections


a - end-to-end with a secret hollowed out spike; b - end-to-end with a hidden plug-in thorn; c - With a straight overlay in half a tree (the connection can be bolted); d - with a straight overlay in a half-tree with wire fixing; d - with a straight overlay in a half-tree with fastening with metal clips (clamps); e - with an oblique pad (on the "mustache") with fastening with metal clips; g - with an oblique pad and bolting; h - marking of the slanting lining; and - end-to-end with a hidden tetrahedral spike
rice. 5

Lumber is built up in length, forming at the ends vertical and horizontal toothed joints (wedge lock) (Fig. 6). Such joints do not need to be under pressure during the entire bonding process, as significant frictional forces act here. Milled sawn timber toothed joints meet the first class of accuracy.

End extensions of the milling scheme for end gluing of workpieces


a - vertical (along the width of the part), toothed (wedge-shaped) connection; b - horizontal (along the thickness of the part), toothed (wedge-shaped) connection; c - milling a gear connection; d - sawing out the toothed joint; d - milling the gear joint; e - connection to the end and gluing
rice. 6

The joints of timber structures must be made carefully, in accordance with the three accuracy classes. The first class is for measuring tool High Quality, the second class is for furniture products, and the third is for building parts, agricultural implements and packaging.

Lateral connection by the edge of several boards or laths is called rallying (Fig. 7). Such connections are used in the construction of floors, gates, carpentry doors, etc. Plank and slatted panels are additionally reinforced with crossbars and tips. When covering ceilings and walls, the upper boards overlap the lower ones by 1/5 ... 1/4 of the width. The outer walls are sheathed with horizontally laid overlapping boards (Fig. 7, g). The upper board overlaps the lower one by 1/5 ... 1/4 of the width, which ensures the removal of atmospheric precipitation.

Pulling boards together


a - for a smooth fugue; b - on a plug-in rail; c - in a quarter; d, e.f - in the groove and crest (c various forms groove and ridge); w - overlap; h - with a tip in the groove; and - with a quarter tip; k - with overlap
rice. 7

The connection of the end of the part with the middle part of the other forms a T-shaped connection of the parts. Such connections have a large number of variants, two of which are shown in Fig. 8. These connections (knitting) are used when joining the lag of floors and partitions with the harness of the house. The connection of parts at a right or oblique angle is called a cruciform connection. This connection has one or two grooves (Fig. 9). Cruciform connections are used in roof and truss structures.

T-shaped joints of bars


a - with a secret oblique thorn (in the paw or in the dovetail); 6 - with straight stepped plate
rice. eight

Cross connections of bars


a - with a straight overlay in a half-tree; 6 - with a straight overlap; I - with landing in one nest
rice. 9

Connections of two parts with ends at right angles are called angular. They have through and non-through thorns, open and in the dark, half-dark, overlapping, half-tree, etc. (Fig. 10).

Right Angle Workpiece End Joints


a - with a single open through thorn; b - with a single through secret thorn (in the dark); c - with a single deaf (blind) thorn in the dark; d - with a single through semi-secret thorn (semi-dark); d - with a single deaf thorn half-dark; e - with a triple open through thorn; g - in a straight overlay in a half-tree; h - through the dovetail; and - into the eyelets with undercut
rice. 10

Corner joints (knitting) are used in window and door blocks, in the joints of greenhouse frames, etc.

The spike connection in the dark has a spike length of at least half the width of the part to be connected, and the groove depth is 2 ... 3 mm greater than the spike length. This is necessary so that the parts to be connected are easily mated with each other and after gluing there is room for excess glue in the socket of the spike. For door frames, an angular spike connection is used in the dark, and to increase the size of the connected surface, it is in semi-darkness. Double or triple stud increases the strength of the corner joint. However, the strength of the connection is determined by the quality of its implementation.

V furniture production widely used various angular box connections(fig. 11). Of these, the simplest is an open end-to-end tenon connection. Before making such a connection, spikes are marked on one end of the board with an awl according to the drawing. By marking the side parts of the thorn with a file with fine teeth make a cut. Every second cut of the thorn is hollowed out with a chisel. For a precise connection, first sawed and hollowed out the stud slots in one piece. It is placed on the end of another part and crushed. Then they saw through, hollow out and connect the parts, cleaning the connection with a plane, as shown in Fig. eleven.

Box corner joints with straight through tenons


a - cutting out the spike grooves: b - marking the spikes with an awl; в - connection of a spike with a groove; d - processing with a plane corner joint
rice. eleven

When connecting parts on a "mustache" (at an angle of 45 °), the angular knitting is fixed with steel inserts, as shown in fig. 12. At the same time, make sure that one half of the insert or fastener goes into one part, and the other half into the other. A wedge-shaped steel plate or ring is placed in the milled grooves of the parts to be joined.

Corner end connections at right angles, reinforced with metal inserts - buttons


a - S-shaped insert; b - wedge-shaped plate; c - rings
rice. 12

The corners of the frames and boxes are connected with a straight open end-to-end spike connection (Fig. 13, a, b, c). With increased quality requirements (with outside the thorns are not visible), angular knitting is performed by an oblique connection in the dark, a groove and a ridge or an oblique connection on a rail, as shown in Fig. 13, d, e, f, g and in Fig. 14.

Right angle box corners


a - straight open through thorns; b - oblique open through thorns; c - open through thorns in the dovetail; d - into the groove on the plug-in rail end-to-end; d - in the groove and comb; e - on plug-in thorns; g - on thorns in a dovetail half-dark
rice. thirteen

Oblique ("mustache") box connections at right angles


a - oblique thorns in the dark; b - oblique connection on a plug-in rail; in - oblique connection on thorns in the dark; g - oblique connection, reinforced with a triangular strip on glue
rice. 14

Box structure with horizontal or vertical cross members(shelves, partitions) are connected using corner T-shaped joints shown in Fig. 15.

Straight and oblique workpiece connections


a - for a double connection in an oblique groove and a ridge; b - on a straight groove and ridge; в - on a triangular groove and a ridge; Mr. straight groove and comb in the dark; d - on straight through thorns; e - on round plug-in spikes in the dark; g - on a thorn in a dovetail; h - on the groove and ridge, reinforced with nails
rice. 15

In the connection of elements upper belt timber trusses corner cuts are used with the bottom. When mating the elements of the truss at an angle of 45 ° or less, one cut is made in the lower element (tightening) (Fig. 16, a), at an angle of more than 45 ° - two cuttings (Fig. 16, 6). In both cases, the end cut (cut) is perpendicular to the direction of the acting forces.

Nodes in truss elements


Additionally, the nodes are secured with a bolt, washer and nut, less often with brackets.

Log walls of a house (log house) made of horizontally laid logs in the corners are connected with a cut "in the paw". It can be simple or with an additional spike (paw with a pit). The marking of the cut is performed as follows: the end of the log is cut into a square, to the length of the side of the square (along the log), so that after processing a cube is obtained. The sides of the cube are divided into 8 equal parts. Then, from one side, from the bottom and from the top, 1/8 part is removed, and the remaining sides are performed, as shown in Fig. 17. Templates are used to speed up the marking and the accuracy of making the cuts.

Conjugation of logs of the walls of the blockhouse


a - simple paw; b - a paw with a wind spike; в - paw markings ;: I - wind spike (pit)
rice. 17

In any joinery or furniture, corner joints are the most important unit. They provide quality and durability. wooden products... Compared to dowel mounting, classic way- spike connection with glue has greater durability and rigidity. Such connections are used in cases where the assembled frame must have a groove or rebate for inserting a panel or glass.

In practice, they are presented in several options: two grooves and a tenon inserted into them, one-sided or double-sided connection with a "mustache" and with a double tenon. But most simple option for home master the use of an inserted (“foreign”) thorn remains. Such a connection is nothing more than a tongue-and-groove connection.

The quality of the connection depends entirely on the exact matching of the groove and the tenon, which is achieved only by choosing a measuring tool and a well-sharpened saw and chisel.

In the case of an angular connection with one tenon, the thickness of the bar is divided into three equal parts (on a bar less than 25 mm, the tenon should be somewhat thicker than the groove cheek).

When marking, the width of the frame is first transferred to the inner edge of the opposite part. Risks are applied using a square with an awl. Since the wood around the spike is selected, it is marked on either side. For a groove, marking is done only on its narrow side. Then the details are marked. It is customary to make grooves in the vertical elements of the frames, and spikes in the horizontal ones. The grooves are marked with a thickness gauge. A spike bow saw is sawn down along the falling off part (for the groove to the base, for the spike - to the ledge). Then a groove is hollowed out with a chisel. To do this, the sawn-off part is fixed on a workbench. The chisel is placed with a sharpening cut to the part to be separated and with light blows is driven into the mark with a mallet. First, a wedge-shaped hole is gouged. The separated part of the wood is left in place so that when working on the back side there is a stop. The tenon is cut at right angles with a miter saw.

The width of the frame is transferred to the opposite part, maintaining perpendicularity. Add 2-3 mm to the kerf.

Mark the groove and tenon with a planer. This is the most simple and exact way markup.

Always sawing from the side of the part to be separated in the middle of the marking. The bow saw is designed for just this kind of work.

An auxiliary guide-stop, made by yourself, will help to make accurate cuts and on circular saw... Observe safety when doing this.

The grooves are hollowed out with a chisel. For this, the connection parts are tightened with a clamp or fixed on a workbench. The chisel is lightly hit with a mallet.

A miter saw with a lockable angle adjustment will allow precise placement of the tenon. This work can also be done with a circular saw.

Special options for corner connections

Special shapes of grooves and tenons - double tenon and mustache grooves. Double cleats are used in heavy duty products and thick frames. If the frame structure is profiled at the end, then a mustache connection is made. There are one-sided and two-sided grooves on the "mustache" (due to the insufficient area of ​​the contact surfaces, they are less strong).

The groove should be in the middle third of the part thickness. The groove around the tenon is made less than the groove depth, otherwise there will be a gap in the joint. After assembly, the remaining cheeks of the groove are sawn off along the entire length. The opposite is also possible.

The fold on the frame must be consistent with the division into three parts. This will save rework time on the cleat. The rebate width must be taken into account when marking, otherwise, during milling, gaps will appear here too.

After grinding the inner and outer surfaces of the groove and tenon, the frame is glued. In this case, it is necessary to compress gusset in two planes through gaskets. The groove and tenon ends should be open for control and fit during assembly. The protruding glue is removed. When gluing, control the right angle of the frame.

After the glue has dried, the clamps are removed and ground off the protruding parts of the spike or groove cheeks from the flanks to the level with outside products.

Spike connection "mustache": one-sided and two-sided. The choice is determined by the design requirements for the product or its appearance.
A double spike is made for especially stressed corners and thick frames. In this case, the thickness of the bar is divided into five equal parts.
When sampling longitudinal groove in the details of the frame, the spike is not affected. Otherwise, when gluing the knot, a hole will appear in its end.
The fold should have a corresponding increase during marking, otherwise gaps will result. The depth is determined by dividing it into three parts.
The spikes and cheeks of the grooves protrude for an increase. Shims will be required when compressing them. After that, the increase is sawed off.