Do-it-yourself circular devices. Homemade device for precise cutting of boards with a manual circular saw

When working with a manual circular saw, the question of the straightness of the cut is acute. There are two concepts for ensuring a straight line:

Fastening on the sawing machine (workbench) of the actual circular.

In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along the guide. The cutting quality is at its best, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material being processed.

The workpiece is fixed permanently, and a guide ruler is installed for a hand-held circular saw.

In this design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any, the main thing is to ensure that the attachment for the circular saw is firmly attached. Manufacturers of hand tools have taken care of users and offer various ready-made tools for sale.

Industrially manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate marking ruler, some allow you to set the angle of the cutting disc. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and play during the movement of the tool.

The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, is protected from the ingress of cutting products and does not need lubrication.

However, all these kits are expensive, and many home craftsmen make their own hands for a circular saw rail.

Consider options that were independently invented and created by homegrown "Kulibins".

IMPORTANT! A hand-held circular saw is a source of increased injury, therefore, in the manufacture of home-made devices based on it, safety precautions should be followed.

The easiest option is a cutting stop

The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.

It works quite efficiently, but it is limited for hand-held circular saws. The tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp. The bracket protrudes above the work surface both from below and from above.

As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular engine rests against the clamp, and you have to cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates, a step may form.

Any master will tell you that a high-quality cut is obtained when the saw moves continuously from the beginning to the end of the workpiece.
In industrial designs, fasteners are placed outside the ruler, and do not interfere with the free passage of the tool.

A homemade guide is made from a finished tool of a different profile, which has a low cost. We buy a long aluminum rule (emphasis on and) for plaster or screed.

Its cost is 3-4 hundred rubles. The tool is a profile of a complex shape with a smooth groove on the reverse side for adjusting the position of the handles. Clamping fastening, on hexagonal nuts. Not suitable for our purposes.

As a donor for hidden clamps, you can use screwless quick-release clamps, which also have a reasonable cost. Their main advantage for our design is the removable upper paw.

We delete it. At the same time, you can return the completeness to the tool at any time, and use it for its intended purpose. Instead of paws, we make and fix runners from a piece of fluoroplastic or polypropylene. The main criterion for choosing a material is strength and a low coefficient of friction.

You can process the workpiece with a milling cutter or a hacksaw for metal with a finely toothed blade. In the second case, it will be necessary, as they say, to “finish with a file”.

We adjust the runners to the groove. Sliding should be without sticking, at the same time, a strong backlash is also not needed. There is no need to try especially hard, during operation this node will be fixed.

We fasten the sliders to the top of the clamp tire. The connection must be strong, since during the cut there should not be spontaneous release, this can lead to injury or damage to the workpiece.

We check the performance of the design. The homemade guide ruler is held securely, there are no backlashes.

With this design, you can process flat workpieces of any size, as far as the length of the ruler is enough. In our case, it is 2 meters. Taking into account the margin at the edges for fixing the clamps, the working length is 1.5 meters. More than enough for most household chores.

If your requests are longer, you can use a 2.5 or 3 meter rule. The most reasonable set is a three-meter ruler. From it you can saw off a piece 50 cm long, and you will have two rulers - for blanks of a large area and narrow boards.

We are doing tests. The cutting line is perfectly even, nothing interferes with the free passage of the circular saw.

And most importantly - the purchased tool is not damaged during the manufacture of the device. Both clamps and the rule at any time return to their original state and are used for their intended purpose. Labor costs are minimal - in fact, only sliders are made.

Remote guide rail for a circular saw with your own hands

With many advantages, the previous design has a significant drawback. It is necessary to constantly control the lateral pressure of the circular body to the ruler. If the width of the workpiece cut off during cutting is too large, the length of the arms may simply not be enough.

The way out is the use of a carriage on ball bearings. The design is not so budget (at least bearings need to be bought), but its capabilities cover all costs. The principle of operation is visible in the illustration:

A carriage is made of metal plates and a corner. To adjust the width, you can use the wing clamps installed in the movable grooves. A profile of a complex shape is purchased at an aluminum structural materials store. There are many options, the main thing is to provide emphasis with bearings from above and from the side. For example - one of these options.

The profile must provide fastening of the C - shaped clamp inside the tire. You can purchase a ready-made design from a selected pair of carriage and guide.

It all depends on the budget of the event. The sole of the manual circular is firmly attached to the carriage.

IMPORTANT! It is necessary to ensure strict parallelism of the movement of the circular saw along the profile, otherwise the cut will be with a loose cut.

Such a tire, made by hand, allows you to cut large-area workpieces. At the same time, the movement of the saw is light and even, the feed can be carried out both by hand and by a guide bar.

Rail miter box for manual circular

The listed designs are well suited for the leisurely cutting of single surfaces. In the case when it is necessary to quickly and accurately cut a large number of boards, the work will be done slowly. Then the rail miter box is used.

For manufacturing you will need:

Two metal corners of the same profile and length;
Flat base (plywood or chipboard at least 15 mm thick);
Bolts and nuts of the same size, 4 sets.

At a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the workpiece, guide corners are attached. The board must move freely under the rails, and at the same time the saw blade cannot be too high.

We use bolts as studs. It is important to observe the parallelism and placement of the corners on the same plane. The photo clearly illustrates the operation of the device:

For free sliding of the sole of the tool along the guides, you can glue fluoroplastic strips that reduce friction.

But it would be more correct to install wheels - for example, ball bearings. The manufacture is relatively labor intensive, but the system is very efficient and safe. If it is necessary to make cuts at an angle, it is enough to screw two screws into the base, into which the board will rest.

Do you have any questions? Watch the video: do-it-yourself guide rail for a circular saw.

This article looks at some simple but useful attachments that the craftsman made for his hand saw. At the end of the publication, for clarity, there is a video tutorial by the author of the “Do-it-yourself joinery” channel.

In this Chinese store expanse for carpenters. Browser plugin for saving in it: 7% -15% from purchases.

Used saw Boch GKS 165 CE. This is, first of all, the traditional regular parallel stop, which is included in the kit of almost any hand-held circular saw. The rest of the devices are various guides. This is a device for perpendicular cross cutting and banding of workpieces. This is a guide rail for cutting sheet material. Two bars - probably the most useful auxiliary devices at work - installation bars, which allow you to accurately place any guides, which are a straight edge rail, paint rules, any straight pipe or profile, or the factory edge of any sheet material. And finally, an adjustable guide for sawing at a given angle.
I made all these devices with my own hands a long time ago, when with the help of a hand saw and an electric planer I learned the basics of carpentry and carpentry during summer cottage construction. And they still serve faithfully to this day.

Especially useful for working with large-sized long-length material. That is, with long boards and large sheets that are inconvenient to process on a circular machine or miter saw. In the first part about the first three devices, as the most popular. The other two will be covered in the second part.

So, the simplest and most common device for a hand-held circular saw is a standard stop designed for longitudinal cutting of workpieces to a given width. But this stop has one drawback - for safety, it is designed so as not to interfere with the operation of the saw's protective cover. As a result, the stop does not allow cutting with a width less than a certain specified value. In different models of circular saws, it is different. For a saw, this is 22 mm. That is, with the help of this stop it will not be possible to cut rails with a thickness of less than 22 mm. Somehow it was necessary to quickly cut a large number of slats, 10-15 mm thick for spacers between boards in a stack. Of the tools available was only a circular saw. It turned out that with the help of a standard stop it is impossible to do this. Therefore, he took the first bar with parallel edges that came to hand and temporarily attached it to the stop with self-tapping screws. Since then, I have been enjoying it!

With the help of a blank, you can saw off slats of any width, up to several millimeters. When working with such an upgraded fence, especially when sawing less than 15 millimeters, increased safety precautions should be observed. With a small sawing width, the protective cover rests on the bar and does not cover the rotating disc. Therefore, when handling a saw, in order not to get injured, you need to be extremely careful and attentive.
Using the device is simple: set the stop to the required cutting width, fix the workpiece, firmly press the bar to the edge of the board and drive the saw along the workpiece. Since such an emphasis can be installed almost close to the disk, replacing the overlay with a longer one, about 40-50 cm, the saw can be used as an impromptu jointer for quickly leveling the edge of the edged board. The result is quite acceptable!

The next fixture is a guide for making perpendicular, transverse cuts.

It consists of the actual guide rail and a stop perpendicular to it. The cut line is defined by the edge. The author of the idea has been using it for about 4-5 years, so the edge is heavily worked out, and soon we will have to make a new one. The device is made for a specific saw blade, for memory I wrote the parameters of my disk. On the other hand, a guide was made for a manual router, with a 12 mm cutter, but it is rarely used.
This device was made to perform a specific job, namely for the manufacture of carved columns for the terrace of his house. It was necessary to make many shallow perpendicular cuts on each side of the timber.
Further from 5 minutes. And the continuation in the second part.

How to make a homemade circular table with your own hands according to the drawings

A hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the main advantages of a circular saw is that maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood need to be cut. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a table for a circular saw with your own hands.

Table device

small tabletop circular stand

The design of a table for a manual circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made from wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require the skills of a welder. Therefore, more often coasters are made from lumber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disk protrudes above it through a specially made slot. Timber is moved along the countertop and sawn with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: angular and longitudinal emphasis.

The tabletop "eats" part of the working surface of the disc, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is desirable to select a circular saw with a maximum disc diameter, and a thin but rigid tabletop.

If the saw has not yet been purchased, select models with high power (from 1200 W). They can cut through large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for fastening: the molded base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

fixing a circular saw under the table top

To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember carpentry skills, be patient and a small amount of materials:

laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
timber 50 x 50;
board;
switch;
external socket;
piece of electrical cable;
PVA glue;
wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
self-tapping screws.

The size of the countertop will depend on the area of the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to cut long pieces. If the entire part fits on the work surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a desktop design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table making process

From a sheet of laminated plywood, we cut out the countertop of the required size. The marking is applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and a pencil. We cut the plywood with an electric jigsaw, mill the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, we clean the surface of the table with sandpaper.
We turn over and from the bottom we make markings for attaching a manual circular. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and set it with the sole in the desired place. We make marks on the table top and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. We drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the countertop and from below held by nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface, we countersink the holes, and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
If you plan to cut the material at different angles, the slot for the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. For even sawing, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, attach a saw, correct the marks, and only then cut.
Mark with a pencil the location of the stiffeners. They are made from a board and installed from below 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the countertop. We will attach the legs of the table to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the countertop, the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
The legs of the table are made of a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. The legs, slightly diverging downwards, will give greater stability. They are fixed on large bolts, twisted from the outside, fastened with nuts from the inside. Screeds from a bar will additionally strengthen the frame.
To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached from below, into which M14 bolts are screwed.
Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disc into the prepared slot.
We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table, pass an electrical wire from it and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outer part of the stiffener). The outlet will be powered by the switch. From it we stretch the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need a #30 aluminum square tube and two screws with wing nuts.

We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the countertop, cut holes for the screws 3 cm from the edge.
We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them relative to the edges of the table, press and move along the jagged circle. In the place where the circle passes in the sled, we cut a groove. Small parts can be stacked directly inside the sled and sawn.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust is scattered from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust extraction.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. Cut out a pusher from a piece of board or furniture board.

Additions to the design

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put on a disc protection on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly into the carpenter.

Some masters, assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and replace the factory platform with a home-made one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can also remove all devices for adjusting the blade tilt. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an inner casing, it is easier to remove the blade, the saw does not clog with chips so much when working with wet boards. Dismantling requires extra time, but the engine resource is saved, overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary table for a circular saw, the second about a small portable design:

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Do-it-yourself hand saw accessories.

These simple and very useful attachments for a handheld circular saw -

parallel stop,
device for perpendicular cross cutting and trimming of boards,
guide bar for cutting sheet material,
positioning bars for precise placement of any guide and adjustable miter guide

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular machine and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and it will turn into a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

The second part of the video.

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It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the artisan exerts force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back)	Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid construction than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· The complexity of the design, · The weakening of the design of the circular table, · The fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or can be used.
Screwdriver.
Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Massive pine.
Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

clamp

Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or, as an option, a false table can be made “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

There are a fairly large number of devices that you can make yourself for a circular saw.

How to make homemade accessories for a circular saw?

Materials and tools you will need:

Textolite or plywood.
Screws with countersunk heads.
Support bars.
Clamps.
Double-sided tape.
Hardboard.
Silicone spray.
Aluminum corners.
Paraffin.

Back to index

Guide manufacturing

A plywood sheet that has factory edges that are even in length can be used to make a guide rail. To do this, cut a strip from the sheet with a width equal to the maximum possible width of the circular saw. 20 cm must be added to the resulting value. The length of this sheet should be slightly greater than the maximum length of the material.

First of all, you need to step back 6-7 cm from the factory edge on the prepared piece of plywood and cut off the strip. This strip will be the ruler along which the saw bed of this type will move. The part of the cut plywood sheet that remains will serve as the base on which the ruler will be fixed. The saw moves along the ruler during the cutting process.

It is important to take care that the height of the ruler is equal to the thickness of the saw bed.

The factory edge must necessarily be directed to the side where the cutting will be performed. The guide is glued to the base and additionally fastened with screws.

At the end, you need to remove the excess part of the base. This can be done using a circular saw. The made edge on the base will be the same lengthwise as the edge of the plywood sheet on the ruler.

This guide is very easy to work with. The base with a ruler is fixed on the workpiece, for example, on chipboard. You can fix using several options. In the first method, the cut off part of the sheet will be located on the side of the saw blade, in the second method - under the base on which the guide ruler is fixed.

Along the length of the sheet, 2 marks are made from the side that corresponds to the specified cutting methods, at a distance where the cut is located. The distance between marks should be maximum. In this case, it is important to take into account the thickness of the disk. The base of the ruler is installed using two marks and secured with clamps. The depth of the jaws of the clamp should ensure their installation so that at the end of the cut the saw can freely go beyond the sheet.

If the guide ruler is long, then it is not very convenient to make a cross cut. Therefore, it is advisable to make a structure that will have a shorter length. For example, for cabinet cabinets that have a width of 60 cm, you will need to make a guide 1 m long.

Such devices are only suitable for working with materials that have a large width and length. It is impossible to cut the board into even bars of this design.

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Designs for a circular saw that will help you make an accurate cut

If a saw blade of this type will leave torn fibers and chips at the edges of the cut, then you can try to make a design to obtain a zero gap. You will need to cut a piece of hardboard, which has a thickness of 6 mm. Next, you need to take the disk away, raise the protective cover and glue the cut piece to the base. This can be done using double sided tape. Next, the saw is turned on and the disc is slowly immersed in hardboard so that it is possible to get a cut with zero clearance.

On the basis obtained, it will be necessary to cut with a small feed.

You can also make a custom template. If you make a template, you can make accurate cuts anywhere. The design is intended for boards 15 cm wide, but it is easy to fit the fixture to any size or angle.

The design is made with a small allowance, after which the saw is pressed against the stop and the edge of the base is removed to the final length. The remote edge of the structure determines the line along which this type of saw will cut. A mark is placed on the board in the place where it needs to be sawn off. Next, you need to press the bottom stop of the product to the edge of the material and align the edge of the base with the cut mark. By passing the tool through the structure, it will be possible to cut boards with high accuracy.

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How to make a simple guide and cutting device with your own hands?

It makes sense to make a simple guide. In order to cut with a portable circular saw, you can purchase an expensive guide at the hardware store or make a few homemade ones in the workshop if you need to cut a large number of sheets. However, you should know that there is a simpler solution - to make a device from scraps that are not used.

In order to make a guide for a saw with your own hands, you need to choose the factory edge of a strip of plywood or durable fiberboard 25-30 cm wide. The strip is fixed along the cutting line so that the base of the tool moves along a flat edge. If a foam backing is used to protect the saw blade, cutouts must be made in it for the jaws of the clamps.

You can also make a cutting device for a saw of this type. A clean and straight cross cut can sometimes be difficult to achieve with a circular saw. It is almost impossible to drive the tool perfectly evenly, and pieces of material most often fly off, leaving behind chips and uneven edges. Therefore, it makes sense to try to make a cross cut structure from several pieces of wood and an aluminum angle.

It is necessary to assemble the base, for which, to the upper side of a piece of wooden board or plywood measuring 1.8x30x122 cm, glue and tighten with screws several parallel planks measuring 2.5x5 cm. Using screws with countersunk heads, you need to attach aluminum corners to the planks at an angle of 90 ° . You need to fasten at a distance that is equal to the width of the base of a saw of this type. The plate will need to be adjusted so that it can cut through all the planks and make a shallow cut at the base.

The device is fixed with clamps on a workbench, a blank is inserted under the aluminum guides and a cut is made. It may be that the saw will slide poorly along the guides. To solve this problem, you will need to use silicone spray or paraffin.

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How to make a template for the guide with your own hands?

Tire guide for a circular saw - it can be made from improvised means by the method of filing a flat sheet of chipboard.

When it comes to making long cuts with a saw like this, it will take a fair amount of time to make all the measurements necessary to set the guide in relation to the marking line exactly according to the width of the base of the structure.

In order to simplify this procedure, you need to cut a template from fiberboard, which is equal in width to the distance from the extreme part of the base of the tool to the inner edge of the saw blade. Next, the template is cut to the length of the base of the tool. In order to use the template, it is necessary to align its edge with the cut mark in the product, and attach a straight guide to the other side and secure it with a clamp.

A hand-held circular saw, or a circular saw as it is commonly called, is a versatile and valuable tool in the arsenal of a craftsman. It is irreplaceable when performing carpentry and joiner's works. The main task is cutting sheet material, as well as transverse and longitudinal cuts of lumber. The design of a saw allows to receive the exact line of a cut.

A circular saw is used for cutting sheet material, as well as transverse and longitudinal cuts in wood.

To improve accuracy and facilitate the performance of work, various devices and equipment are produced.
For all their merits, they have a fairly high cost, which is not affordable for everyone. And sometimes they are difficult to buy and deliver to the right address, especially in areas remote from large cities. Therefore, the logical way out of this situation is to make the necessary device for the circular with your own hands.

Devices for working with a manual circular saw can be very diverse: from primitive disposable stops to very complex and versatile devices. And if for the manufacture of the simplest fixtures it is enough just to pick up even pieces of thick plywood or boards of the required size, then more complex equipment will already be made using tools.
Materials and tools

The material from which devices for a circular saw are prepared can be selected from scraps of thick (at least 10 mm) plywood or hard wood (for example, birch) at hand.
Of the tools you will need:

joiner's square for measuring and marking blanks;

electric jigsaw or hand circular saw (for cutting blanks);

drill (drilling mounting holes for fasteners);

screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits for installing fasteners.

The process of manufacturing fixtures for a circular saw consists of several stages:
a sketch is developed and detailing is thought out;

material is selected;

marking and cutting of the material;

assembly and, if necessary, adjustment of devices.

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Guide for circular saw

The simplest device is a guide bar. You can easily get a straight cut. For manufacturing, you need an even straight bar of the required length. It, with the help of self-tapping screws (if allowed) or clamps, is attached to the material being processed. Fastening should be carried out at such a distance from the required cutting line that the position of the saw blade coincides with the markings when resting on the bar with the side sole of the circular saw. For a one-time cut, this method is suitable, however, when repeating the same type of operations, the procedure for marking and installing the bar will need to be repeated each time.
The guide bar can be improved by fixing it on a sheet of durable plywood 6-8 mm thick. One edge of the sheet when working will be aligned with the cut line. At a distance equal to the distance between the saw blade and the edge of the sole of the circular saw (working distance), a guide bar is attached to the plywood with self-tapping screws. When working, it will only be necessary to combine the working edge of the plywood sheet with the cutting line and fix the opposite edge with clamps.

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Pull-out protection: device nuances

The simplest devices can also include a bar fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the workpiece. This will avoid such an unpleasant effect as chips and tears. And if these defects do not play a role on the boards being cut, which will be used to make the frame of the house or formwork, then the cut must be even and clean during the production of carpentry.

For the manufacture of more complex universal devices, tools and a certain amount of materials will already be needed. The time spent on their manufacture will later be more than paid off by the ease of work, accuracy and, ultimately, saving the same time.

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Accessories

Blank template. If it is necessary to manufacture the same type of parts, you can use one of them as a guide template. To do this, a workpiece of the required length is cut off and a stop rail is fixed at one end. The width of the rail must match the working distance. When working with this device, the stop rail must fit snugly against the end face of the workpiece. So you can get a large number of parts of absolutely the same length without wasting time on marking the cutting line.

Cutting corner. For permanent use, you can make a cutting square. It consists of two massive wooden or plywood slats, fastened with self-tapping screws overlapping in the shape of the letter “T”. The length of the protruding ends of the “T” bar is aligned to match the working distance of the circular saw. Setting the leveled end of the crossbar against the marking line will allow you to get an accurate perpendicular cut.

Edge stop. The corner (edge) emphasis is a part of a standard complete set of a circular saw. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being processed. Using a self-made edge stop, due to the extended and longer base, you can get a cleaner and more accurate cut.

To make an edge stop, a stop rail and a base for a circular saw are cut out of 15 mm thick plywood. Keyways are selected in the base and thrust rail using a manual milling cutter. The dowels themselves are made from scraps of hard wood or from the same plywood and are attached to the grooves of the thrust rail. To reinforce the stop at an angle of 90 °, another rail of sufficient width is fixed to the stop rail, which will rest on the workpiece. Adjustment of the cutting distance from the edge of the workpiece is carried out by moving the stop rail along the guides, followed by fixing with a locking screw.

To install the screw in the base, a through groove is sawn through. To increase the cutting accuracy and increase the safety of work, it is recommended to use two screws. A hole is made in the base plate for the saw blade and a mounting system for the circular saw is installed. The design of the mounting system can be very diverse and will depend on the specific brand of saw. A common point for all options should be the reliable fixation of the circular and the possibility of dismantling it from the fixture after work is completed. For the convenience of setting the required width of the cut of the material, a measuring tape is fixed on the front surface of the fixture base.

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Device for cutting beams

For cutting a large number of identical bars, it makes sense to make a device called a saddle. It consists of three parts connected in the form of the letter “P” (back and two sidewalls). The width of the backrest must correspond to the width of the sawn timber. The width of the sidewalls is chosen so long that they can provide sufficient support for the edge of the sole of the circular saw before the saw blade enters the workpiece material. Also, in the sidewalls, it is necessary to provide grooves or holes for reliable fastening of the fixture on the processed timber using clamps.

Work with this device is carried out as follows:

cut line is marked;

at a distance equal to the working distance from the cutting line, the device is set and fixed;

the beam is cut by moving the circular along the side surface of the fixture.

The advantage of this device is that there is no need to reconfigure when cutting a beam that is thicker than the saw blade overhang. To do this, two passes of the saw are made from opposite sides.

The design of the device for working with bars can be slightly improved by analogy with the modernized guide bar. To do this, bars are attached to one or both sidewalls at a distance equal to the working one, which serve as an emphasis for the sole of the circular. Thus, the edge of the side piece will coincide with the required cutting line.