How to make a wooden plinth with your own hands. Diy high white plinth

What we wanted

Having monitored the market, disappointing moments became clear: firstly, such a plinth is difficult to buy, and secondly, its price per meter depends on the height and starts from 400 rubles. For me, this is very expensive for such a seemingly simple thing, so we decided on an experiment - to do it yourself

Maybe it will seem wild to someone to make a skirting board themselves, but on the other hand, it is just a board of the required height and width, well, and a decorative element. The inspiration was these pictures from the network:

Another example

Well, really, nothing complicated ?! Let's try ...

... And we tried it almost 2 years ago, when we were doing repairs in the nursery, the result suited us, therefore, we already knew how to implement this in the kitchen, we will tell you too))

We are going to the construction market

For the manufacture of a high plinth, as mentioned above, boards and corners are needed. We will surround only the visible parts of the wall with a plinth (we are so lazy, or economical), our "perimeter" was 7.5 meters, so we get in total:

• Boards 24x120x2000 - 4 pieces, you need to choose carefully, because they are not all perfectly flat and smooth;
• Corner decorative rail 20x20x2200 - 4 pcs;

You will also need:

• White acrylic enamel;
• Brush;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Countersunk nails
• Plastic dowels;
• Saw for miter box
• Stuslo, Sasha decided to please himself and bought the most expensive model;
• Wood putty;
• Skin;

Preparatory work

To begin with, all the boards should lie indoors and "acclimatize", ideally for a week. But we have safely forgotten about this rule)))

Fitting

We wanted white skirting boards, for this they need to be painted. You can paint after installation, but it's more convenient for me to do it before.

The first layer was a primer - diluted the paint 1: 1

Water in the paint raises the pile of wood, so we grind

When the board is smooth, you can start painting. I need to overlap the wood texture as much as possible, but keep the relief. The basic rule of painting works here - several thin layers instead of one thick one. For the desired result, I needed 3 layers.

I start from the ends

At the junction of layers

Another layer

Difficulties arose with painting the corners, and in general they were not successful - a lot of knots and burrs. When priming, the paint clogged the relief, so after drying it took a long time to pick it out of the recesses. I decided to finish painting them after editing.

Mounting

The next day, when the paint was dry, we started editing.

First, we decided where the joints would be. Because our wall is 4.2 meters, and the boards are 2m, we decided to make a solid board in the center of the wall, and 1.1m on the sides of the board.

I really, really regretted it - the saw was dull, or the board was very thick, in general, one saw cut took about 15-20 minutes. But he did! It's good that we have only 2 corners))

Angle at 45 0

Fitting to the wall

Sasha fixed the boards with self-tapping screws: he marked out where to insert 4-5 points on the board, then he drilled thin guide holes. Having attached the board to the wall, through the holes in the board, he marked the places for the holes on the wall. He drilled holes in the wall with a puncher, hammered in the dowels and screwed the boards to the wall.

Pilot hole

Dowel hole

Fix to the wall

Fixed

Due to irregularities in the corner, the board did not want to adhere to the wall, so I had to cut the board a little along the contour of the roughness. All the same, the gap remains, but nothing, we put putty.

Hewn plinth for wall relief

The gap is almost invisible

we attach to the GK wall immediately on self-tapping screws without dowels

Working mess

When Sasha finished, I putty all the cracks, irregularities and caps of the screws, and then sanded the excess and irregularities. Now it was the turn of the corners, we attach them to the finishing nails.

The corner is nailed to the board, you cannot nail to the floor!

In the Soviet Union, skirting boards were only wooden, they were installed quite simply - with a hammer and nails. The panel houses had a plinth made of cement mortar. In our time, there is also a plastic skirting board.

And yet the most ancient and reliable option for floor edging is a wooden plinth. Russia, rich in wood, has long used this material in construction. Today, a wooden plinth, so to speak, a classic of Slavic housing construction, is very much in demand, since, with all the positive properties of plastic, wood is a living, breathing natural material, looks very soundly and is easy to use.

What kind of wood are skirting boards made from?

Choosing according to GOST, we will most likely acquire a pine product. After all, pine is an excellent material for construction, it has excellent characteristics. But this is not the only material of its kind from which skirting boards can be made.

Let's start with the fact that the skirting board should be perceived visually as a straight line, which, as it were, emphasizes the floor. For this line to be really even, the material from which the product is made must also be even. That is, the wood that was put on the skirting boards should not have undergone deformation under the influence of high humidity. In other words, it is highly undesirable to be "twisted".

Moisture-resistant breeds are conifers such as pine, spruce, yew, fir, larch. They do not undergo deformation if they grow in places of high humidity, and also do not crack when they dry. Therefore, they are very convenient for installation, easy to process.

Deciduous species - such as walnut, linden, cherry, are very soft, prone to deformation, so they are not suitable for construction. Hard deciduous trees - hornbeam, oak, maple, are capable of cracking during drying, and they are processed, mounted difficult, due to their increased hardness.

By material, all skirting boards are classified as follows:

1. plastic (thin-walled or foamed);
2. veneered (on the outside there is a thin veneer made of valuable wood, and the basis is coniferous wood;
3. wooden (an array of one type of wood is used);
4. laminated MDF (base - MDF, outside the film with a pattern of stone or wood);
5. others (ceramics, metal, polyurethane, etc.)

Mounting methods:

1. with clips;
2. self-tapping screws or finishing nails;
3. glue;
4. hidden fasteners in the cable channel.

By decorative layer:

1. woody pattern (natural or imitation);
2. monotone color;
3. identical to the floor covering (wood, imitation carpet, etc.)

By the degree of flexibility:

1. hard (metal, wood, ceramics, plastic, polyurethane);
2. medium (thin-walled plastic, plastic cable channel);
3. flexible skirting boards (special types).

WOODEN SKIRTING INSTALLATION

Installation of such a skirting board is impossible without basic construction skills. After all, wood is not plastic, and it is not easy to work with it. And yet, if you wish, installing wooden skirting boards with your own hands may well be up to you, the main thing is to do everything according to the instructions.

First, we will determine what tools and materials are needed to install a wooden skirting board, and you need a lot of them:

1. miter box;
2. building corner;
3. hacksaw for wood;
4. roulette;
5. a hacksaw for wood with a thin blade;
6. screwdriver;
7. self-tapping screws;
8. pencil;
9. electric drill;
10. wooden skirting boards;
11. dowels (if we attach to drywall, then "butterflies";
12. countersink;
13. long nail.

INSTALLING A WOODEN SKIRTING ON A BRICK WALL

The first, very important rule: install skirting boards only at the beginning of the second day after purchase. It will take time for the new skirting boards to "get used" to the new room: dry up, adapt to the new temperature regime, "get acquainted" with the humidity level of the room. If a new skirting board is made of raw wood, if it has not dried well enough, after installation it can "lead", and the whole work will be ruined.

But now the day has finally passed, the plinth has adapted, you can install it. Where to start work? As a rule, from the inner corner of the room. We make measurements first of all. Let's measure the wall from corner to corner, its length. Next, we transfer the dimensions to the wooden plinth and mark the place where you want to cut. We set the building corner in the desired position and draw a straight line, separating the unnecessary part of the plank. High-quality joining of skirting boards occurs when their ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. To measure and cut very evenly, use a miter box. This simple tool helps to very neatly cut the objects that we need. You can also cut the skirting board with a circular saw.

Measured, now we cut it off with a hacksaw on wood. Next - docking. If everything is measured correctly and cut at the right angle, everything should lie well. But sometimes it happens that after measuring and cutting, there is still a noticeable gap in the corner, since the corner of the room itself failed - it turned out to be uneven, of poor quality. Yes, not always the corners of the room are 90 degrees, sometimes 87 and 93. This happens when the diagonal was broken during the construction of a building - laying a foundation or erecting walls. Do not throw away the skirting board and do not be discouraged: after all, a small gap can be putty. Well, a larger gap can also be removed by grinding the edges of the baseboard to the minimum gap size. Such a fit of the joints can be done with a simple grinder.

The appearance of the skirting boards directly depends on how correctly they are fixed, as well as the tools that you have available for installation. For example, a tool called a countersink helps to make a notch for the head of a self-tapping screw, which allows you to hide it completely.

By the way, initially uneven corners of the room are marked out somewhat differently than those that do not deviate from universal standards. In this case, a plinth stick is placed between the wall and the floor to the corner, closer to the joint on the floor along the plinth, we draw a marking line. We do this operation for each corner separately from both sides. Then we saw off a piece of the required length and mark at the end of the rail.

The upper point can be the upper corner of the stick, which is rested against the opposing wall. The bottom point is a marking line on the floor, perpendicular to the plinth that we are marking out. We connect these points with a line and cut the plank at an angle of 90 degrees to the floor. A neat cut usually does not crack. In relation to the length of the wall, the length of the skirting board that we cut should be as large as possible. Only in this case they will fit together tightly and beautifully.

If two plinths are installed along the entire length of the room, they are also connected at an angle of 45 degrees so that the even joint in the middle is not striking. If one plinth was enough for the entire length, then we adjust the other end at the corner by the same size. Let's dwell on this in more detail.

One plinth length is not always enough to stretch it from wall to wall. Sometimes two or three segments are used, and a strong and beautiful joint is also needed between them. Angles cut at 90 degrees will not work here, you need to trim at an angle of 45g degrees, such a joint, if done carefully and processed with sandpaper, will not be visible at all.

By the way, the quality of both angular and intermediate joints depends largely on how high-quality the product itself is. The skirting board should be the same throughout its entire thickness, it should not have knots, notches at the joints.

Fastening a wooden skirting board to the wall

With a drill we mark the wall where the fixing dowels will be placed. The procedure is very simple. As a rule, a wooden skirting board is attached after about 50 cm - this is if the wall is even, and if not very much, then it can be fixed more often.

Then, using the markings made, we drill holes into which the plastic dowel will be placed - these are the ones used if the wall is made of brick. If the wall is made of plasterboard, the plinth is fastened with self-tapping screws or butterfly dowels.

The fastening process is also pretty straightforward. We take into account only a few points. One of them - the bar can be fixed only after careful adjustment of the joints. It is very important to observe the correct depth of the holes for the dowels, it should be no more than 1 cm deeper than the length of the dowel itself. For accurate drilling, wrap the drill with electrical tape to the indicated hole depth. On the plinth, you also need to drill recesses for the heads of dowel screws, self-tapping screws, so that they are not subsequently visible on the plinths. For such recesses, a drill is taken that is slightly larger in diameter than the attachment head. Or, for such holes, a tool such as a countersink is used.

Then we fix a well-fitted baseboard around the perimeter of the room. All is ready! Proceed with puttying, varnishing or painting the wooden skirting board, having previously cleaned the surface from dirt and dust. To prevent the varnish from getting on the floor and wallpaper, you should cover them with something.

We have described a method for attaching a wooden skirting board to a brick wall.

How to install a wooden plinth on plasterboard walls.

1. First, we measure out with a pencil the places on the wall where the self-tapping screws will be located, which will be used for the installation of the plinth. However, this procedure is not so obligatory, here it is quite possible to do without it.
2. We transfer the markings applied to the wall to a wooden plank.
3. We drill holes in the plank, for this we definitely use a wooden board, which we put under the plank as a support and so as not to spoil the floor covering. The hole diameter cannot exceed the thickness of the nails that we will be using, so measure the drill diameter very carefully.
4. Next, take a countersink and make small indentations in the holes made. As already mentioned above, such recesses will serve to ensure that the screw cap is completely immersed in the baseboard.
5. Having changed the drill to a suitable bit, carefully fix the plinth with self-tapping screws.

We fix the wooden plinth to the concrete wall.

1. We drill a hole in the skirting board using the technology mentioned above.
2. We attach the plinth to the wall, insert a long nail into the holes that we just made. We hit it several times: we need one strong or several weak blows with a hammer on the nail. The result of this procedure is obvious: there is a trace left on the concrete wall. That's right, because the purpose of this action is not to break through the wall, but only to make a nail mark on it.
3. Focusing on this inconspicuous chip on the wall, we drill a hole of the required diameter using an electric drill.
4. We drive a dowel into the hole made.
5. We install the wooden plinth and screw in the required number of screws one by one.

Fastening the skirting board to the inner corners.

1. Create a plank layout by sawing off a couple of centimeters from the wooden plinth.
2. We lean the model with an edge against the plinth and outline the outlines of its end with a pencil.
3. Using a hacksaw for wood with a thin blade, carefully cut the material, repeating all the contour features.
4. Check the accuracy of the cut before installing the skirting board by constructing an inner corner from the planks.

How to fix wood plinth flooring to outer corners

1. Install the skirting board in the intended location and reflect the outer corner of the wall onto the plank.
2. We install the wooden plinth in the miter box, cut it at an angle of 45 degrees.
3. We check the accuracy of the cut.
4. We finally install the skirting boards, securing them with self-tapping screws.

FIXING THE WOODEN SKIRTING TO THE FLOOR

You can attach the plinth to the wall, or to the floor. How it's done? Quite simply - nails. Sometimes it is even easier to nail it to the floor than to the wall, since it is easier to attach a tree to a tree. You just need to try not to allow gaps between the baseboard and the wall (just in this case, the gaps between the baseboard and the floor are completely excluded), which can arise from the unevenness of our typical walls and floors.

In this case, nails are driven into the floorboards through the plinth strip at an angle of 70-80 degrees to the floor. Well, if you can't hammer a nail into the floor, if it has a coating that is too hard or too fragile, then, of course, we use the methods described above: we nail a wooden plinth to the wall.

INSTALLATION OF SKIRTING ON FINISHING NAILS

You can attach a wooden baseboard to finishing nails. Such installation is similar to installation with self-tapping screws, only finishing nails are used instead of the latter, and pieces of wood are used instead of dowels.

Such a mount has both its advantages over other types and limitations. The advantage, of course, can be called an almost invisible attachment point. But the nails are smooth, and some types of wood may over time

crack. If the skirting board is installed in a stressed state as a result of uneven walls or floors, then there is a high probability that either nails or wooden dowels may not withstand such a load.

There are also restrictions on installation with nails - for example, it is completely excluded if the walls are made of plasterboard, or the walls are very loose. And in fact, and in another case, the wooden dowel will not hold on such a surface.

Wood screws, which today are often used instead of nails, are in many cases more effective to use than nails. After all, the self-tapping screw easily hides in the plinth, after which the hole is sealed with a "liquid wood" type putty.

A LITTLE ABOUT DECORATING SLITS

The gaps, often formed at the joints of two planks, as well as between the floor and the baseboard, or between the wall and the baseboard, can be decorated with colored putty and sealant to match the wood. How to do it?

Cover the surface that borders with the gap (floor or wall) with paper tape, then apply the decorating compound by pressing it into the gap with a spatula. Remove the tape right away - leaving it for a few days will make it much more difficult to remove.

Among the many skirting boards that differ in their design, color, shape, texture, there is a model with a decorative insert in the middle, which serves not only for beauty, but also to hide the fasteners. After installation, a wooden insert is glued to the top of the recess.

The disadvantage of a wooden floor plinth is that it does not press tightly against an uneven surface; a careful, neat fit is needed here: measurements, cutting and filing. After all, even if the floor is even, then the wall is not always even. Often, for this reason, you have to give up wooden products and put plastic. Well, although the plastic fits almost perfectly, it is alien, lifeless, life-giving energy, which is in a tree, is not in it.

THE AESTHETIC SIDE OF WOODEN SKIRTING INSTALLATION

Certain standards are not applied for the entire wooden plinth, for its cutting. So, for example, a wide wooden plinth will give your home more comfort due to the fact that it visually brings the floor closer. A white skirting board will favorably emphasize the cleanliness of the room. And it is not at all necessary that the color of the wooden plinth matches the floor or walls. The play of color always gives a special charm to the room, which in a certain way affects a person, his attitude, energy, psyche.

I would like to note that conifers, which are used for the manufacture of skirting boards, will have a beneficial effect on our body. In our age of high percentages of allergic, cardiovascular and other diseases, which often arise due to environmental pollution, it is impossible to breathe truly fresh air, since chemistry is present everywhere. All these factors speak in favor of only natural, environmentally friendly products and materials, one of which is a wooden plinth.

Skirting board installation is the final stage of floor finishing. Accordingly, it should be produced only after the finishing work on the walls and laying the flooring have been completed. You can lay the skirting board yourself, without resorting to the help of "outside" specialists.

To begin with, it should be noted that there are wooden and plastic skirting boards. Moreover, the latter are slowly replacing environmentally friendly wood in the market of finishing materials. Since plastic is more popular, let's first consider how to install just such products.

The plinth of a plastic skirting board consists of two parts. So to speak, the bottom, and the top (front). Before starting the installation, these two parts are disconnected, and the preparatory work is carried out using only the lower part.

Stage 1: procurement of material

First of all, you need to measure the length of all walls in the room where you plan to install the skirting board. To the resulting number it is worth adding one and a half to two meters "in reserve", and then divide all this by 2.5. This way you get the number of planks you need to buy. Divided by 2.5 because that is how much (in meters) is the standard length of one plinth strip.

In addition, you will need connectors, corners and plugs. They (stubs), by the way, are right and left. This should also be taken into account when calculating the required amount.

Stage 2: preparing the tools

To work you will need:

• Miter box
• Fine-toothed hacksaw
• Drill or hammer drill
• Screws and dowels

Stage 3: cutting the skirting board

In order to cut the plinth at the desired angle, you must use a miter box - a special device that greatly facilitates this difficult process. It should be used as follows: put the plinth panel so that the side that will be in contact with the floor after installation is pressed against the wall of the miter box, and the side that will be in contact with the wall lies on the base of the miter box. After you place the plinth on it in this way, using a hacksaw, you need to cut off the desired part, focusing on the slots in the miter box. The next panel is cropped in the same way, only in a mirror image.

Stage 4: markup

You need to lay the plinth from the corner adjacent to the longest wall of the room.

We put a corner on the baseboard and apply it to the wall. At a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the corner, make a mark (with a pencil) for the first hole. We make the rest of the marks every 40 centimeters. If the wall is uneven, then a mark should be made 5-10 centimeters before the place where the plinth forms a gap with the wall. Thus, you need to mark the entire perimeter of the room.

Stage 5: installation

Next, we take a drill and drill holes in the wall through the lower part of the skirting board, with which we are working, according to the previously applied marks. After that, we remove the product from the wall, use a vacuum cleaner to collect the resulting dust (and in the holes too), and insert the dowels into the resulting holes.

Reapply the skirting board. And with the help of a drill in screwdriver mode, we fasten its lower part with screws to a previously prepared place. Everything. It remains only to install the upper half of the skirting board in its rightful place. By the way, you can run one or several cables under it (depending on the model of the skirting board). For this, special cable channels are provided.

Features of laying a wooden plinth

Installation of such a skirting board has some peculiarities.

Fit

Corners are not used with wooden skirting boards. Therefore, the process of fitting the skirting board at the corners becomes more laborious. Since the corners in our apartments rarely have ideal 90 degrees, after cutting a wooden product on a miter box, you need to manually adjust it to the characteristics of your particular room. Ideal joining will still not work, so we recommend using colored sealants and putties to match the wood.

Layout and installation

The marking is done in the same way as when working with plastic skirting boards. But further, slightly different actions should be performed.

• According to the markings, screws should be screwed into the plinth until they appear on the back side of it. Then press the plinth tightly against the wall until the marks from these same screws appear on it. Next, you need to mark these marks with a pencil and drill holes in the wall along them. After that, it remains to insert the dowels into the holes, install the plinth in its rightful place and tighten the screws to the end.
• Preference should be given to self-tapping screws with the smallest diameter of the cap at the largest possible length. Since the mounts will be visible in any case, it is worth making them at the same distance from each other. That way they will at least look harmonious.
• Finishing nails can be used instead of self-tapping screws. In this case, the dowels must be wooden. Such nails are almost invisible in the fastening points, but they have limitations of use. In walls made of plasterboard or loose concrete, wooden dowels simply will not hold.

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