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How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling - 4 proven options

Plastic trim now has both supporters who admire its beauty and practicality, and opponents who believe that artificial materials have no place in the house. I'm not going to philosophize on this topic now, but if you need to finish the ceiling quickly, inexpensively and with good results, then plastic is a worthy choice. In this material, I will try to describe in detail how to properly fix PVC panels to the ceiling in four proven ways, and you yourself choose what suits you best.

I must say right away that the very fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling in all four ways is not much different. In this case, we will talk about creating the basis for such a coating. But first, let's deal with the preparation for the main process.

What to consider when preparing

Before going to the store, please note that there are PVC panels for the ceiling and there are plastic panels for the walls. If everything is correctly mounted, then in appearance they will look exactly the same.

The differences lie in the features. Facing for the ceiling is traditionally made lighter and thinner, so as not to load the suspension with extra pounds. At the same time, wall decoration is able to withstand higher mechanical and point loads.

Of course, on a good basis, you can safely mount both ceiling and wall panels. But think about whether you need increased strength on the ceiling. After all, no one will hurt him with his elbows, and the claws of pets will not get there either. But you will have to pay more money, because the price of wall plastic is at least 30% higher.

Now a few words about what panels are. Without going deep into the wilds, 2 main areas can be distinguished: these are seam and seamless panels.

Seam panels, for external similarity, are also commonly called plastic clapboard, as a rule, they are cheaper. But not every interior is suitable.

In most cases, people prefer to veneer the ceilings of residential premises with seamless panels with a glossy finish. Naturally, upon closer examination, the connecting seam is easy to notice. But believe me, such ceilings look much more spectacular.

The width of standard panels ranges from 250 to 500 mm. The length, depending on the specific model and manufacturer, can be from 2.7 to 6.0 m. Of course, there is also a plastic lining with a width of 100 to 200 mm, but I do not recommend it to you, since it looks rather mediocre on the ceiling.

And don't forget the accessories. If you are limited only to the ceiling, then you will need a ceiling plinth to equip the perimeter. There is a small nuance here: when the walls are even, it is better to take a specialized decorative plastic plinth with a mounting groove.

If there is a “wave” along the wall, then against the background of a flat plinth, this curvature will be too noticeable. In this case, I recommend taking a regular U-shaped starting profile, and in addition to it, glue a flexible vinyl ceiling plinth on top.

Among such accessories there is also an H-shaped docking profile. Even if you are not going to dock anything, I recommend that you take at least one bar in reserve. It costs a penny, but it can help out well if you have to repair some segment of the ceiling.

Equipping the base

As I said, fastening the panels to the base is the same everywhere. It is much more important to prepare this very foundation well. In general, there are 4 types of bases for such a cladding:

1. Metal frame assembled from UD and CD profiles;
2. Wooden frame;
3. Installation of panels on plastic rails with movable clamps;
4. Bonding panels directly to the ceiling.

Option number 1. We assemble the iron frame

The frame made of galvanized profiles is the most reliable, strong and durable version of the ceiling cladding. Of course, the arrangement of such a design, in comparison with all other basics, requires time and financial investments.

But take my word for it, the metal frame is worth the sacrifice. After all, if one day you get tired of plastic, then you can dismantle it with your own hands in a couple of hours. But instead of it, you can already install whatever you want, drywall sheets, MDF panels, wooden lining and many other worthy facing materials.

I am sure that you have seen such constructions more than once, but you probably thought that it was too complicated, at least I, until I mastered this science myself, thought that way. Do not worry, there is nothing here that would require fundamental knowledge in the field of construction. If you are not afraid of a drill, a screwdriver and a grinder, then this instruction is quite up to you.

In fact, the only drawback of a suspended metal frame is that it will make your ceiling lower by at least 5 - 7 cm. For homeowners with ceilings from 3m and above, this detail often does not play any role. But the owners of Khrushchev have something to think about.

Any similar design is assembled from 2 types of galvanized metal profile. This is the so-called UD profile, in the domestic marking PN (guide profile), and CD profile, in our PP classification (ceiling profile).

In addition to the profiles themselves, you will also need perforated metal hangers and, of course, “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors, this already depends on the type of base. Between themselves, metal profiles and suspensions are fixed with the help of small self-tapping screws for metal. In the people they are called fleas or bugs, as someone is used to.

By the way, we will also mount the plastic lining on 4.2x16 mm self-tapping screws. My advice to you, take at least 100 - 200 pieces at once, they will not be superfluous on the farm.

When purchasing material for such work, you need to take at least 10% more. This 10% is usually spent on pruning, marriage and other unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it's always better to have a small spare in case of an emergency repair.

From the obligatory tool you will need a screwdriver and a drill or a hammer drill. Metal profiles can be cut with a grinder, but, for example, it is more convenient for me to work with metal shears.

It's good if you have a laser level, but this tool is professional and the price is fantastic. Therefore, instead of it, a hydraulic level is often used.

Do not confuse the hydraulic level and the usual building level. A hydrolevel is a long transparent tube into which water is poured, this device works on the principle of communicating vessels and has flasks with graduations along the edges. Its price is not high, so it is better to buy, it will not be superfluous.

• Naturally, work on the installation of any frame begins with marking. In this case, we will need to find in which direction the ceiling is “littered”. The fact is that all ceilings seem to be strictly horizontal, only until you start measuring them. In 90% of cases, there are necessarily differences in the corners. And we need to find the lowest corner. This is where the laser or hydraulic level comes in handy;

• Having found the “littered” corner, you need to measure 50 mm down from it, this will be the level of the plane of our future ceiling. When constructing suspended ceilings of this type, 50 mm is the minimum, but if it is planned to install a heater on the ceiling or any communications pass through it, then the depth can be done more;
• Further, starting from the marked corner, you will need to transfer this horizon to the entire room. This is where the hydraulic level comes in handy again. It will be necessary to mark adjacent points in the corners, then rub the cord with chalk, pull it along the wall between the marking points and beat off the horizontal;
• A UD (PN) profile will be installed along this horizontal line, it will pass along the lower cut of the profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall with “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors with a pitch of about 60 - 80 cm. Moreover, so that both of its wings are directed inside the room, since later we will insert a CD (PP) profile into this groove;
• Now let's talk about how to attach a CD (PP) profile, we will have it as the basis for PVC panels. Again, you first need to mark the installation sites of the carrier profiles;

Remember, the carrier profile and PVC panels should be perpendicular to each other, and it doesn’t matter what the profile is made of, metal, wood or plastic. By the way, not only plastic is mounted this way, any longitudinal panels, be it MDF, lining or siding, are also attached perpendicular to the rails.

• As I said, the CD (PP) profile will be inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD (PN) profile, but one such fastening is not enough, so the CD (PP) profile will still need to be hung on perforated suspensions to the ceiling;
• Perforated hangers are fixed to the ceiling with the same dowels "Quick installation" or anchor bolts. But in order for them to pass clearly above the CD (PP) profile on the ceiling, a straight line should be beaten off with a coated cord;
• After marking, you can proceed with the installation of suspensions according to this markup.. For plastic, it is enough to install hangers at a distance of 80 cm. But I usually mount them more often, at a distance of about 60 cm. This is in case the owners then want to sheathe the ceiling with heavier material instead of plastic, for example, MDF panels or clapboard;

• Then everything is simple. We insert the CD (PP) profile into the grooves of the UD (PN) profile, bend down the wings of the perforated hangers and fix the structure at all points of contact with small self-tapping screws. That's all, your frame is ready and you can start installing plastic panels on it.

Option number 2. We mount a wooden crate on the ceiling

Compared to the above option, it is much easier to mount a wooden crate. But it has both its pros and cons.

Of the advantages, one can point to ease of installation and lower cost of construction. A wooden frame will cost you less than a metal frame by more than 2 times.

But it is extremely undesirable to mount wood in damp rooms, for example, in services. Modern impregnations will still protect against mold and fungus, but in this case there is no protection against deformation during temperature and humidity changes.

There is one more nuance here, perfectly even dry bars are expensive. And if you take a budget option, then almost all the slats are slightly crooked. Accordingly, in order to bring such a frame to mind, you will have to tinker a lot. The cross section of the bar starts from 25x25 mm, if you take it thinner, it can split.

In this case, the wooden bars of the frame are attached directly to the ceiling, on self-tapping screws or anchors in increments of 60 - 80 cm. According to the rules, it is also supposed to display the plane strictly according to the level.

But if the ceiling is visually even, then you can simply fill the bars of the crate on it and not bother with bringing it to zero. After all, if a slight curvature was not visible before the beginning of the lining, then it will not be noticeable after its completion.

If there are large defects on the ceiling, then wooden wedges will help you here. Personally, I, according to the level strictly horizontally, with the help of wedges, first set 2 extreme strips.

After that, between them I pull 3 nylon cords (along the edges and in the center) and already along these cords I install the remaining laths of the crate. The distance between the planks of the wooden crate is maintained in the region of half a meter.

Option number 3. Installing a plastic crate

Plastic crate thing is very comfortable and very durable. But the problem is that it will cost no less than the installation of a metal frame. At the same time, you can fix only plastic PVC panels on such a base. No other facing material can be hung on it.

The plank of such a crate is a U-shaped profile with edges bent inward. Kleimers move along such a kind of guide, with the help of which the plastic panel is actually fixed.

To the ceiling, they are attached according to the same principle as the wooden crate. Only compared to wood, plastic is less durable, and if you have to use wooden wedges for, then the fixing screws or anchors are driven into the ceiling through the wedge.

This is important, because if the fixation point is in a different place, then if the wooden wedges are deformed, the expensive plastic battens may crack.

A big plus of this version of the crate is not only that it is easy and quick to mount plastic on it, if necessary, you can also quickly disassemble this entire structure.

Moreover, both the plastic panels and the lathing slats will remain in their original form, and all this beauty can also be assembled elsewhere.

Option number 4. "Liquid nails" to help you

The vast majority of ceilings in urban apartments are reinforced concrete floor slabs. And if it is good to putty the joints between these plates, then you will get a perfectly flat ceiling.

It is not necessary to mount any crate on it; plastic panels can simply be glued to such a base on a construction adhesive called "Liquid Nails". Theoretically, you can take another glue, but, as far as I have come across, this is the one that is used.

Working with Liquid Nails glue has its own characteristics and it is better to take them into account, especially when it comes to ceiling work. If you simply lubricate the panel with glue and press it to the ceiling, then in this position you will have to stand and wait for the glue to set for at least half an hour. Agree, the prospect is not rosy.

You need to act differently:

• After lubricating the panel with glue, it is pressed against the ceiling so that the glue spreads and immediately comes off;
• Further, this panel is set aside and aged for 5 - 7 minutes;
• And only after that the plastic will easily, quickly and firmly stick to the ceiling.

“Liquid nails” glue is certainly good, but in order for it to firmly grasp on a concrete base, this very base should be primed. As a rule, 2 layers of standard deep penetration primer "Betonkontakt" are enough.

Of course, gluing panels to reinforced concrete floor slabs is fast, simple and inexpensive, and most importantly, it does not make ceilings lower. But I think you understand that it will no longer be possible to dismantle such a lining without damaging it. Basically, it's a one-time option.

Technique for mounting plastic panels

Now it's time to talk about how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling. Regardless of the length, width and thickness, all these panels are connected according to the tenon-groove principle.

But first you need to fix the starting profile around the perimeter of the room, into which the plastic panels will be inserted. I already mentioned above that if the walls of the room are even, then it makes sense to use a plastic ceiling plinth with a mounting groove as a starting profile.

The fastening of the ceiling plinth with the mounting groove is carried out in the same way as the fixing of the plastic panels themselves. I.e:

• If you have a metal frame, then the plinth is attached to it with self-tapping screws;
• A plinth or starting profile can be screwed to a wooden frame either on self-tapping screws or “shoot” with staples of a construction stapler;
• On plastic guides, it is fixed with clamps;
• Well, to a flat ceiling it is simply glued to the "Liquid Nails".

Both in the ceiling plinth with a mounting groove and in the U-shaped starting profile, the lower support bar is specially made wider. It is in this extension that self-tapping screws or staples of a construction stapler are driven.

When the starting profile is mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the plastic panels themselves. The first panel is inserted with a spike inside the starting profile, and on the reverse side, the lower edge of the groove is fixed on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or clamp.

The next plastic panel is mounted in the same way. We insert the spike of the new panel into the groove of the previous one, press it against the guides and fix it at the back. As you can see, the instructions are extremely simple.

But most novice craftsmen often have a problem with how to fix the last panel on the ceiling. This issue is easily solved:

• First, we measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the edge of the starting profile, from this value we recline 5 - 7 mm and cut off our last panel;
• Next, we start the extreme panel with a cut into the starting profile, until it stops. As a result, the panel will become flush with the previous one;
• And now we are carefully trying to push the spike of our trimmed panel into the groove of the previous one. As a rule, after several attempts, everything falls into place.

The depth of the U-shaped starting profile or plinth with a mounting groove fluctuates around 10 - 20 mm, so the gap between the edge of the plinth and the trimmed plank will not be visible.

There is one more nuance in the question of how to fix the ceiling plinth for plastic panels. It is not so important whether you stick it or screw it onto self-tapping screws, a decent look largely depends on how accurately you join it in the corners.

Most instructions recommend simply taking a carpenter's miter box and "cutting" adjacent 45º corners. But in our houses, not all corners have a clear 90º, and if the angle is turned or vice versa is sharp, then the standard carpentry miter box is generally useless.

I do it quite differently. First, the plinth is applied to one side of the corner and lines are drawn along it on the ceiling and on the wall.

And then the same procedure must be done on the adjacent part of the corner. As a result, you get 2 intersection points, which will serve as guidelines for cutting the ceiling plinth.

Tip: the installation of electrical equipment is indirectly related to the ceiling lining. But my advice to you, if you are wiring under the skin, then before installing the plastic, assemble the circuit and check if it works. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything later.

Conclusion

Cladding the ceiling with plastic with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first. See the photos and videos in this article for more tips and tricks. And if you have any questions, leave them in the comments, I will try to help.

Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels is not the best method for solving the problem, but due to its cheapness and simplicity, it is often used.

Today, there are panels for bathrooms that imitate, with various patterns, etc. In terms of cost, these materials almost do not differ from tiles, and savings are achieved due to the cheapness of installation.

Plastic panels can be mounted in various ways, the specific choice depends on the wishes and capabilities of the customer. In the article we will give step-by-step instructions for all the options for decorating walls and ceilings.

Before starting work, you need to purchase materials, but here inexperienced builders make mistakes.

We do not touch on design issues, this is the topic of the following articles. Let's talk about construction aspects.

1. Check mechanical strength. The stronger the panels, the more durable and better the sheathing. Check them before buying, squeeze your fingers at the end. You will be surprised how different the materials are regardless of the price. There are cheap and durable PVC panels and vice versa, expensive ones, but resembling cotton wool in strength. The quality of the panels depends on the raw materials used, equipment and production technology. Never buy soft panels, in case of damage it is almost impossible to change them.
2. Check pattern matching. Very often domestic producers sin. Complex multi-color patterns on the panels require the maximum responsibility of the manufacturers. Patterning is not a simple process, quality control must be carried out at all stages of production. Installation of low-quality panels leads to the fact that individual elements on the lamellas do not match. If this happens with ceramic tiles, then by slightly adjusting the gaps, the situation can be corrected, this cannot be done with panels. We understand that it can be difficult to check in a store. Warn the seller that such a check will be done by you at home, be sure to take a check. At home, lay the panels on a flat surface and carefully inspect all the joints, pay attention to how the lines of the pattern or pattern move from one panel to another.
3. Pay attention to the docking points, there should be no gaps. Unfortunately, some manufacturers manage not only to leave gaps, but also to make them uneven in width. The reason is low-quality raw materials, old machines and the human factor. Marriage becomes even more noticeable if modern spotlights are installed in the bathroom, cracks cast a shadow, the appearance of walls and ceilings will upset even very undemanding clients.
4. The thickness of the panels over the entire area must be exactly the same. Connect the two lamellas and see if the junctions lie in the same plane. If there is a slight difference in height, then this is a marriage. When lighting the room in these places, shadows of various widths are formed, the appearance of the wall will be irrevocably damaged.
5. Check the material for plasticity. If the panels are made of recycled PVC, then during fixing it will crack. This is a significant marriage, the fastening strength is significantly reduced. Recycled PVC is obtained after processing products from primary. In terms of cost, raw materials are much cheaper, and this tempts unscrupulous manufacturers.

   High-quality panels do not crack when bent

Use the information when buying materials, do not create additional problems for yourself. Remember that high cost does not always guarantee the same quality.

Complete set and additional elements

We will discuss how to calculate the number of panels and additional elements below, and now we will tell you what is included in the package of wall decoration with PVC panels. Select the appearance and specific dimensions taking into account the parameters of the panels.

Name	Brief description and purpose
	It has the form of a plate bent at an angle of 90 °. It is used for finishing of internal and external corners of the room.
	A complex profile, part is installed under the panels, the outer side hides the unevenness of the cuts or surfaces.
	Consists of a corner, the inner part is wider than the outer. Hides the irregularities of the outer corner.
	Differs from the outer width of the sides. The wide one is installed under the lamellas, the outer narrow one hides the irregularities of the inner corner.
	Allows you to connect lamellas without a lock, it is used if the length of the lamellas is insufficient for surface finishing
	It is installed first and last, sometimes it can be used instead of a universal or special corner.
	Is established in places of adjunctions, it can be applied as a platband.
	The supporting element of the frame can be plastic or metal profile.
	Made of metal, presses the panel to the mounting plate. Allows to dismantle panels without loss of factory qualities.

pvc panels for bathroom

The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer, staples with a stapler, clamps or liquid nails. The choice of method depends on the materials for the manufacture of the supporting frame and the quality of the walls and ceilings.

How to process material

One of the advantages of PVC panels is manufacturability. You can cut the material in one of three simple ways in two directions.

Method 1. Mounting knife. Use only new inserts, the tip should be as sharp as possible.

Cut direction	Way of execution
Along the panels	Lay the panel on a flat place, mark the place of the cut. When cutting, you need to use a long straight rail. Press it firmly against the surface of the panel and cut the lamella on one side along the entire length with the end of the knife. Then turn the panel over and bend the cut point. Cut off the remaining plane in a bent position.
across the panels	A more complex case requires certain skills. Mark the cut. With the tip of a knife, carefully cut the jumpers between the planes one by one. After the entire width under the ruler has been passed, make a continuous cut in one plane. Bend the cut off part and cut off the second plane from the opposite side.

Method 2. Bulgarian. It is necessary to work with a disk for cutting metals. Disc thickness is minimal. Cutting is very easy and fast, the only requirement is a minimum experience with a grinder. Be sure to follow all safety rules, injuries from the angle grinder are very dangerous. Burrs on the opposite side of the cut break off easily after cooling.

Method 3. Hacksaw for metal. Undesirable option, work hard and long. But in extreme cases, you can use it.

With a jigsaw you can make any cut on a plastic panel

The quality of the cut depends on practical skills. But do not be upset if the cut edge is not very even, additional elements allow you to hide problems in width up to one centimeter. The cut can rarely be worse, the panel will be fit for installation.

How to cut several PVC panels at once

How to calculate the number of panels and additional elements

The bathroom has a small area and many different transitions and corners. It is for this reason that professional builders are not very willing to finish these premises, it takes a lot of time to measure, install the crate and adjust the panels, and there are few square meters at the exit. Builders are paid for meters, not for time, so they choose large premises.

The more corners and transitions, the more unproductive waste there will be. Their number increases if panels with decorative patterns or asymmetrical patterns are selected. Such material does not allow the use of segments in other places. For ordinary panels, the amount should be increased by 10% of the surface area to be finished. In bathrooms, the stock should increase to 15%. In addition, if there are complex patterns, then the panels will have to be counted piece by piece, taking into account the location of the pattern.

Measure the total length of the inside and outside corners, the length of the skirting boards on the floor and ceiling. Decide how much you need a starting profile, whether you need a connecting profile, what elements you will finish the corners with (simple or complex). If you have the skills to work with PVC panels, you can use simple corners, if not, buy complex ones. They allow you to hide errors during cutting or dimensioning. Take your time, think carefully, always buy with a margin. It is very disappointing to go to the store again for a meter or another corner, and time is wasted in vain. Additional elements cost a penny, do not save on them.

When counting the number of rails or mounting strips, keep in mind that the distance between them should not exceed 50 cm. In addition, they must be mounted at the junction of the floor and the flow as close as possible to all corners, window and door openings. Reiki in these places are installed regardless of the location of the last row. Measurements and calculations may take several hours, use them wisely. It will never be possible to accurately calculate the number of clamps or screws. Buy them in packs, the seller will tell you the approximate number of pieces, taking into account the width of the PVC panels.

General requirements for surfaces

One of the advantages of wall finishing technology with plastic clapboard is the low requirements for surfaces. The walls do not need to be specially plastered and leveled with putty, only large cracks are sealed. The height of the irregularities can be up to one 1-1.5 centimeters, everything that is more needs to be cut down.

The climatic parameters between the wall and the sheathing are the most favorable for the reproduction of fungi and other microorganisms; it is impossible to destroy them later. You will have to remove the casing, do disinfection and vapor protection. Only after such events can you begin to mount plastic panels. No matter how carefully you remove the skin, damage to the materials cannot be avoided. If you manage to buy the missing ones with the same characteristics, great. If not, you will have to buy new materials for the entire scope of work.

Installation of panels on the walls on a wooden crate

We will give step-by-step instructions for the vertical arrangement of panels. In the future, we will talk about the technological differences between vertical and horizontal placement.

Step 1. Calculate the surface area of ​​the walls minus window and door openings.

Make a stock taking into account the above remarks. We will fix the lamellas with a stapler and staples, this is the fastest and fairly reliable option. Self-tapping screws for a long time, clamps on self-tapping screws even longer, and liquid glue will not allow replacing a damaged panel if necessary. The crate is fixed to the wall with dowels. If you have special plastic mounting strips, then the lamellas are attached to them only with clamps, they are inserted into special grooves. Advantages of clamps - the fixation area increases, the lower mounting plate of the panel is not damaged. Due to this, the strength of the fastening increases, the clamps are recommended to be used during ceiling sheathing with spotlights. They allow you to withstand the increased weight of the structure.

Step 2 Clear the wall of large irregularities and seal the cracks.

To check the surface, use a large flat rail, apply it in different places and see the clearance. At the same time, check the horizontal position, if the deviation is more than a centimeter, you will have to plaster. If the spread is smaller, then the position of the rails is regulated by various pads.

Step 3 Soak the surface with an antiseptic, make vapor and waterproofing. You can use aluminum foil or plastic wrap. It is allowed to impregnate the walls with liquid insulators, just pay attention that they are for indoor work. Wooden slats also need to be treated with solutions.

Step 4 To speed up the work, mark the position of the rails, use a blue rope to beat off the horizontal lines at the desired distance.

Step 5 At a distance of no more than 10 cm from the ceiling, fix the first rail. Carefully check its position with a level. Insert wedges if necessary. The rail is fastened with dowels. First, make a hole on one side and fasten the dowel, and then on the other. Next, dowels are installed along the entire length, the distance between them is about 20–30 cm. In the same way, fix the rail near the floor.

Step 6 Stretch ropes between them, two at the ends and one in the middle. The ropes perform the function of beacons, you install all the other rails along them. Be sure to frame around window and door openings. Once again check the position of all the rails, make sure that the crate is installed correctly near the openings. If the slats are not in the same plane, then this will negatively affect the panels, the backlight will reveal their incorrect position. To fix the marriage, you will have to dismantle the lamellas and repeat the installation from the beginning.

Step 7 Fasten a corner in the corner, start wrapping around from the far corner of the room. Fix the corner with a stapler, the length of the staples is 6 mm. During fixation, carefully control its verticality along two faces. Not only the quality of work, but also the speed of installation depends on the correct position of the corner. If the angle is not equal to 90°, then you will have to adjust the dimensions of each panel, which is very long.

Step 8 Measure the width and height of the wall in several places. The parameters must be the same. If the spread is less than a centimeter, then all workpieces can be cut to the same size. Count the number of panels, measure the desired length on it and cut off the excess. This will be a template, use it to make marks on the remaining slats.

Step 9. Insert one edge of the lamella into the corner, fasten it to the crate from the back side. Don't forget to check the position. The first panel is installed - continue installation in the same way to the opposite corner of the room.

Step 10 The last panel needs to be cut in width depending on the remaining space. Make it about 1 cm narrower, this will make installation easier. First install the last lamella in the corner, and then move it to the penultimate one until the lock clicks into place.

Finish all wall surfaces according to the same algorithm. A little more work near the openings, in these places you need to measure and cut each element separately.

Installation of a metal frame

The advantage of a metal frame made of profiles is that it allows you to accurately align the position of the rails, regardless of wall irregularities. How is it attached?

Step 1. On the wall, draw the lines for placing the U-shaped suspensions. The algorithm of work is the same as for wooden slats.

Step 3 Cut the U-shaped carrier profiles to length, count their number.

Step 4 Start installing carrier profiles. The vertical position is adjusted using the holes in the hangers or a slight extension of the profiles. If they do not allow you to accurately install the crate, then unbend the suspensions. Such actions do not worsen the bearing performance of the elements. Loads from lamellas act perpendicular to the bend. The elements are fixed to each other with self-tapping screws.

Important. If significant errors were made during the installation of the crate, then they can be corrected only after the dismantling of the PVC panels. It is not only expensive, but also time consuming. Do not forget to constantly monitor the position of the supporting elements. Remember that the most accurate device for measuring the vertical position is an ordinary plumb line. You can buy it or make your own. The level can distort readings up to 2 mm per meter. And if it fell from a great height, then it is impossible to install a crate on it.

What is the difference between vertical and horizontal laying

The only difference is that for horizontal laying of panels, the frame must be vertical and vice versa. For bathrooms, horizontal laying of panels is strongly not recommended. Water easily enters the locks, then penetrates into the space between the panels and the wall. If there is a lot of it there and it is constantly there, then no steam and moisture protection will help. The appearance of mold and fungus cannot be avoided. To destroy them, you will have to completely disassemble the wall covering, carry out a set of special preventive and construction measures, and sheathe the walls again. Such work costs about twice as much as the correct wall cladding.

Practical advice. Do not invent a bicycle, do not create problems for your own money. In bathrooms, install PVC panels only in a vertical position.

Installation of panels on the draft ceiling

For example, let's take panels that mimic a rack ceiling. The draft ceiling does not require any preparatory work.

Step 1. Saturate the draft ceiling with antiseptics, allow them to soak and dry. It is advisable to make a vapor barrier with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. Fix the material with a stapler, carefully seal the joints with tape.

Glue the joints with tape

Step 2 Measure the distance between the opposite walls of the room and cut the skirting board, in the corners the connection is at 45°.

Practical advice. Do not fasten the skirting board to the wall with self-tapping screws. Under the weight of the panels, it will sag a little, gaps will form between it and the wall decoration. In addition, this method of fixation requires perfectly flat planes. Self-tapping screws press the plinth to the depressions, it bends, the appearance deteriorates significantly.

Fasten the elements to the wall with liquid glue, remove excess material immediately. Fix only three skirting boards, the fourth is placed after laying the panels. For a guarantee, you can additionally fix the back of the element to the ceiling with a stapler. Wait 2-3 hours for the glue to dry completely.

Step 3 Ceiling panels should be a few millimeters thinner than wall panels. Keep in mind that each skirting board can fit two centimeters into the panel. Measure the length of the ceiling from edge to edge of the skirting board and add 1.5 cm to this value, the remaining 0.5 cm remain for ease of installation. It is better to measure and cut each panel separately, this minimizes the chance of error.

Step 4 Recheck the dimensions and geometry of the ceiling. If there are slight deviations, then they will have to be gradually eliminated by changing the width of the gaps between the lamellas. The magnitude of the change should not exceed two millimeters, otherwise the adjustment will become noticeable. If the architectural features of the ceiling allow, then align the panels in places that are invisible to the eye. Open areas will already have smooth joints.

Step 5 Insert the end of the panel into one plinth, bend it slightly and insert the other end into the opposite one. Align the panel and tuck the long edge into the third skirting board.

Practical advice. What to do if the plane of the ceiling resembles a rhombus? Such cases happen with hack builders, but this can be corrected. Install ceiling panels diagonally. There is nothing complicated, just cut the end of each panel at an angle. How this is done, we will describe below. The negative consequences of a crooked ceiling - the amount of panel waste increases significantly.

Step 6 Press the panels firmly against each other, fix them with a stapler. The tighter the locks converge, the stronger the connection. If the ceiling is not very even, then during the fastening of the panel at the end between it and the plinth, a gap may appear. To prevent this from happening, push plastic trimmings into these places and only then fix them. Under force, the plastic will shrink to the required thickness, the gap will close. There are difficulties with bending short slats. In such cases, make them another centimeter shorter, the width of the skirting boards allows this. The best option is to immediately lay the panels on the wider side of the ceiling. During installation, do not apply excessive force, do not damage the baseboard, do not scratch the walls, do not break the panel.

Step 7 After all the whole panels are installed, measure the width of the remaining uncovered ceiling. Cut the material according to these dimensions using one of the possible methods.

Step 8 Using the method described above, insert the panel into two skirting boards, connect one edge to the lock. The rest will have to be fixed separately. There are two options. The first is to lubricate the reverse side with liquid nails before installation and glue it. The second is to drill a hole in one plane along the diameter of the self-tapping screw and fasten the second plane to the ceiling with it.

Step 9 Cut off the base piece from the fourth ceiling plinth. Spread the remaining plane with liquid glue and attach to the wall in the right place.

This completes the installation of the ceiling panels. Of course, during operation, you need to leave space for electrical wiring, ordinary or spotlights. If, after installation, gaps are visible in some places, they can be sealed with a sealant of the appropriate color.

Installation of panels to the ceiling on a metal frame

Step 1. Beat off the installation line of the supporting profiles along the perimeter of the room, make sure that the ceiling is horizontal. At a distance of approximately 50–60 cm, fix the remaining profiles. If the ceiling is very uneven, then use suspensions. They are fixed and adjusted in the same way as on the wall. The difference is that the ceiling frame is more difficult to check with a level: it is more difficult to work, hands are raised up and get tired quickly.

Frame for PVC panels

Step 2. Glue three skirting boards with liquid nails, cut them at 45 ° at the corners. If the ceiling plane does not have right angles, then each gash will have to be adjusted. Glue the plinth both to the wall and to the metal profile. During gluing, follow the technology. After the skirting board is attached, take it away and wait 2-3 minutes, then press the element again. Check its position by rule or level. The rule is applied to the lower edge of the plinth. If there are gaps, then carefully move the plinth down with your hand until it stops with an even edge of the rule. Give it time to cool. The cracks in the corners are sealed with a liquid sealant, but for professionals, the fit should immediately be tight. Under the ceiling of the bathroom is very hot and humid. You can be sure that the sealant will peel off after 4-5 years, it will have to be removed, and the gaps re-sealed.

Practical advice. Sometimes, during the curing of the glue, the skirting boards lead a little in the corners, they are at different levels. To prevent this from happening, shove at the corners of the trim, they will constantly keep the two elements at the same level.

Step 3 Insert one end of the lamella into the baseboard, bend it slightly and tuck the other end into the opposite baseboard. Align the panel and slide into the third plinth. We have already mentioned that before installation, you should accurately check the dimensions of the ceiling. If one side is longer than the other, then the difference must be gradually leveled by adjusting the gap between the lamellae. The method, of course, is not ideal, but the best does not exist. Install panels always on the long side of the ceiling. Due to this, it will be possible to reduce the number of cuts and facilitate the bending of the lamellas during installation.

Panel fixing

Constantly check the position of the slats. In order to prevent a jumped-off screwdriver from damaging the end of the panel, place a clean wide metal spatula between them during tightening, it serves as a reliable protection. It is not necessary to twist the press washers into the tail of the panel, it is difficult and increases the risk of damage, the main thing is that it presses it against the profile with a hat.

Step 5 The last panel must be cut to fit the remaining gap. To facilitate installation, make a gap of about 1-1.5 cm, then it will hide in the baseboards.

Step 6 Cut off the back plate of the plinth, spread the remaining surfaces with glue and glue it in the wall. Do not forget that gluing must be done in two stages. If the plinth crawls down under its own weight, then hold it for a few minutes or come up with any temporary stop.

On this work is completed, you can proceed with the installation of lighting fixtures. Even before you start finishing, you should know the type of devices and their installation locations, pre-cut holes of the corresponding diameters in the panels.

1. Draw on the panel a hole of the desired diameter and in the selected location.
2. Insert the drill into the drill, adjust it to high speed.
3. If there is an assistant - excellent, he will put the panel on the edge and hold it firmly. If you have to work yourself, then the panel is held with one hand, while the other works with a drill. This is inconvenient and difficult, the hole will turn out uneven.
4. Drill a hole on the circle line, press the drill against the line and drive it along the circle. From friction, the plastic will melt, and the drill will "cut" a hole in it.

That's all, remove the burrs and the hole is ready.

What are the features of mounting panels on the ceiling for spot lighting? No matter how light the fixtures are, a large number of them creates an additional load on the panels; over time, the ceiling may sag a little. In order to prevent such consequences, it is necessary to install intermediate jumpers more often, professionals recommend making the distance between them no more than 30 cm. In addition, choose strong lamellas for the ceiling, pay special attention to the characteristics of the locks, they hold the weight.

Can panels be reused? A lot depends on how you shoot them. Cheap materials can produce long longitudinal cracks during detachment of fixation sites. To prevent such a phenomenon, with the sharp end of the mounting knife, cut the junction of the lamellas with the frame along the entire perimeter of the hardware. Before re-laying, it will be necessary to move the supporting frame a few centimeters in any direction so that the fixation is done on intact areas.

Video - Vertical laying of panels on walls

The modern building materials market offers a huge variety of building materials, including finishing ones. However, with all their diversity, when, when renovating an apartment, the owners begin to discuss what kind of material they want to line the walls in the bathroom, toilet or even the kitchen, the choice often falls on plastic panels. Wall decoration with plastic panels is an easy and affordable way to update your interior.

Decorative plastic panels

Plastic panels are a material made from Polyvinyl Chloride, which is used for surface cladding work. Wall decoration with PVC panels is often chosen because they have a low weight, low cost, and the material from which they are made does not contain harmful asbestos and cadmium substances that are dangerous to humans.

Polyvinyl chloride is a versatile polymer that is used to make bottles, syringes, linoleum, hoses, and water pipes. Products made from this material have a smooth, easy-to-clean surface, which allows them to be used, for example, in hospitals or kitchens. PVC panels are lightweight and have a cell-like structure.

In order for the PVC plastic panel to catch fire, it needs to be heated to almost 400 degrees, and in the process of burning it does not emit toxic substances.

PVC panels are waterproof facing material and can be used in domestic areas such as kitchens, bathrooms, toilets.

Decorative PVC panels are soundproof and do not allow heat to pass through. To protect against exposure to sunlight and moisture, the panels are impregnated with a varnish coating, which gives them smoothness and repels dust. On the front side, PVC plastic panels are covered with various patterns imitating natural materials (wood, stone, etc.).

Wood-like plastic panels are often installed in the kitchen, and stone-like panels are often installed in the hallway. Such panels can be easily cut both lengthwise and across, so there are no problems during their installation. It is also easy to connect them, and you can make them in such a way that they will be a continuous canvas, or you can leave gaps by inserting some interesting decor between them.

Types of PVC panels

PVC can be used for finishing:

• walls;
• ceilings;
• exterior decoration of the house.

Decorative panels that are produced for wall cladding (wall plastic panels) have a thickness of up to 10 mm, unlike ceiling panels, the thickness of which is not more than 5 mm.

In addition, PVC panels designed for the ceiling have thinner walls and partitions.

Clapboard is often used for exterior decoration of the house. However, it can also be used for interior decoration. It is also easy to install and easy to clean. Clapboard, as a facing material for exterior walls, is quite justified - it is frost-resistant, does not lose its beautiful appearance at low or high temperatures.

It is better not to use ordinary plastic panels when decorating external walls, since they do not tolerate the ultraviolet rays of the sun very well.

In appearance, PVC panels for walls are divided into:

• matte;
• mirror;
• glossy.

All these panels differ both in color and in texture, have a different pattern, and different coatings.

According to the shape, PVC decorative plastic panels are divided into:

• rack;
• tiled;
• leafy.

Slatted plastic panels look like lining. They can be mounted to the wall both horizontally and vertically. These panels are up to 3 meters long, 13-30 cm wide, and their thickness varies from 8 to 12 mm. They are connected to each other with a special lock "thorn groove".

Tiled plastic panels for walls are rectangular or square tiles, ranging in size from 30 to 98 cm. They are fixed to the walls like racks, but visually look completely different.

Sheet panels for walls are a sheet of chipboard with a pattern printed on the front side. Such panels are glued to the wall, or nailed.

The size along the long side of such panels varies from 1.22 m to 2.44 m, and the thickness varies from 3 to 6 mm. Such panels are not plastic, but their decorative layer also has a polymer coating.

According to the method by which the pattern is applied, PVC plastic panels are divided into:

• laminated;
• with a pattern applied with a film;
• with a pattern applied by direct printing.

Lamination is the application of a film with a pattern to the surface of a plastic panel. It is laminated panels that imitate natural stone or wood.

The method in which the pattern is applied using a thermal film is that the white panel is covered with any color, after which the thermal film is glued on top.

The method of direct printing (it is also called offset) is that the image is first transferred to the front side of the PVC panel, after which it is varnished on top.

Plastic panels are also divided into types according to the presence of a panel seam:

• seamless;
• embossed;
• with bevel.

Seamless panels have no visible joints when installed, and they give the impression of an ordinary smooth wall. In relief panels, the seam is clearly visible, and is part of the decor. Chamfered wall panels are the same seamless panels that have a small indentation for decor that makes them embossed.

In addition, separate varieties include mirrored plastic panels, and plastic panels made to look like bricks.

Mirror plastic panels appeared relatively recently, but have already gained immense popularity. These panels are covered with a special reflective film, so they are used not only in apartments, but also in restaurants, hotels, bars, and other public places.

The advantages of mirror plastic panels are undeniable:

• they visually increase the space due to reflected light;
• they can be installed on surfaces of various shapes, including round ones;
• they look great with any design ideas;
• such panels are mounted on various bases;
• You can wash them in the same way as washing ordinary glasses.

The disadvantage of mirror panels is the fact that they do not like moisture. Therefore, in rooms such as a bath and a kitchen, they are not recommended. Also, mirrored plastic panels do not like high temperatures.

Wall decoration with plastic panels under the stone looks very elegant. A brick or stone wall always looks very beautiful, but due to the high cost of the material and the complexity of the masonry, not everyone can afford such a cladding. But plastic stone panels or PVC panels imitating brickwork are not only easy to install, but also easy to care for.

The advantages of such panels include:

• a variety of types of imitations for any stone and any masonry;
• light weight and easy installation;
• simple care;
• duration of service life;
• price.

These panels look great in the kitchen, and in the hallway, as well as in public places.

How to choose plastic panels for wall decoration

Even if you know exactly what color plastic panels you want to see, for example, in your kitchen, and have chosen a pattern, nevertheless, pay attention to some more points so that you do not regret your choice in the future.

When buying, you need to track the following:

• carefully inspect the cut and pay attention to the thickness of the jumper. The strength of the cladding depends on this - the thicker the jumpers and the polymer itself, the stronger the finish will be;
• plastic everywhere should be the same thickness;
• cells and edges should be even and look neat;
• the pattern on the surface must be clear and uniform;
• keep in mind that panels from different boxes may have different shades;
• pay close attention to the quality of the polymer. Take one panel and bend it.

After the plate has been unbent, no joints or damage should remain on it.

Installation of plastic panels on the wall

It is not difficult to install decorative plastic panels on the wall with your own hands, and one of the most pleasant moments is that such an installation does not require wall preparation.

You will also need the most common tools.

Preparatory work

Before you go to the hardware store for plastic panels, you should calculate exactly how much finishing material you will need.

To calculate, you need to decide how exactly you will install the plastic panels - vertically or horizontally. If you are going to mount the panels vertically, then you just need to measure the perimeter of the room, summing the lengths of all four walls, and subtract the width of the doorways from it. The value of the perimeter must be divided by the width of one panel, and add three or four more pieces to the resulting amount for trimming and “just in case”.

If your room has two 3m walls and two 5m walls, then the perimeter will be (3+3+5+5 = 16m). If the width of the plastic panel is 0.5 m, then you will need 16 / 0.5 = 32 panels. So take 35.

If you plan to install the panels horizontally, then you need to determine not the perimeter, but the area (by multiplying the length of each wall by its width, and then adding the resulting values), and then also take away the door (and window) openings. After that, you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel, and divide the first value (room area) by the second (panel area).

With the same room dimensions and a standard ceiling height of 2.5 m, the area of ​​​​the two walls will be equal to 7.5 m (3 x 2.5) and 12.5 (5 x 2.5) m, respectively, that is, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will be equal to (12.5 + 12.5 + 7.5 + 7.5 \u003d 40 sq. M). The area of ​​one panel 2.5 m high and 0.5 m wide will be equal to (2.5 x 0.5 = 1.25 m). Accordingly, you will need 40 / 1.25 = 32 panels.

Scraps, by the way, with this method of installation will be much larger. So the stock also needs to be increased. Take 37 pieces.

You also need to calculate the number of rails that will be needed for the crate. To do this, you need to divide the height of the walls (2.5) by the distance that you will need to leave between the elements of the crate (usually leave 0.5 m). That is, in our case, we get 2.5 / 0.5 = 5.

Now you need to find out the length of all the rails in running meters. To do this, we multiply the obtained value by the perimeter of the room (in our case, it is 16 m). Accordingly, the length of the rails in linear meters is 5 x 16 = 80 m.

Wall marking

Do-it-yourself wall paneling involves marking, since the crate must be fixed strictly according to the level, otherwise you cannot avoid distortions. It is in order that you do not have to measure each purchased rail and you need to make a markup.

The bottom row of plastic panels is located exactly 2 cm above the floor surface.

Accordingly, having measured this distance, you need to put a point, and then draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room using a level. Exactly the same straight line must be drawn along the edge of the future finish. From the line drawn below, you need to measure up 50 cm, and mark this place. So you need to put marks to the very top. Through these marks it will be necessary to draw horizontal parallel lines along the entire perimeter of the walls. The markup is ready.

Lathing installation

Before installing the crate, prepare the walls. Careful leveling of the wall surface is not required, however, you need to remove the old finishing materials and everything that can fall off and come off. If there are large recesses in the surface of the wall, it is advisable to repair them. If something sticks out, these parts of the wall need to be chipped or hemmed.

After that, the wall should be treated with an antifungal coating. And then you can proceed directly to the installation of the crate.

The elements of the crate must be located strictly perpendicular to the plastic panels. If you will mount the panels horizontally, then the battens of the crate must be mounted vertically, and, accordingly, vice versa. Reiki are installed at a distance of no more than 50 cm from each other, and even less is better. The shorter the distance, the less the wall of plastic panels will “walk”. The crate is attached to ordinary dowels.

If you want your cladding to look even and beautiful, the crate for plastic panels must be set in the same plane. If there are irregularities somewhere, you need to put pieces of plywood. Then the lining will look decent.

Installing profiles

The installation of plastic panels itself begins with the fact that the selected profiles must be installed in one of the corners. They are attached to the elements of the crate.

As a result of such fastenings, a kind of frame is obtained. Plastic panels are inserted into this frame.

DIY wall decoration with plastic panels

Now you need to install the plastic panel, cutting it to the height of the wall if you install the panels vertically, and, accordingly, to the length of the wall if you choose the horizontal installation method. You can cut off the panel with a conventional saw with a metal blade.

With the cut side, the plastic panel is inserted into the frame at the corner, driven all the way (to do this, you just need to knock on it with your hand), and check with a level how strictly this panel stands vertically. Then this panel is attached to each element of the installed crate.

Note that you need to start from the farthest corner of the room, since it is visible from the entrance in the first place, and it is impossible for any extra joints or edges to be visible there.

Having fixed the first panel, a second one is installed next to it, then a third, and so on. No difficulties should arise, it will be a little more difficult only with the very last panel, because it will have to be cut in width and immediately fixed to the profile. It is not always possible to do this evenly, and the plastic may be slightly wrinkled. But with appropriate skill and accuracy, this small difficulty can be dealt with.

Installation of moldings

After you have installed all the plastic panels, and your wall has acquired a beautiful and neat look, you need to close the corners and joints. This can be done with the help of special plastic moldings that will complete your work.

After finishing work, the same plastic molding must be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and a plastic plinth should be installed on the floor.

When installing plastic panels, holes for sockets and switches should be made in the lining. This can easily be done with a regular sharp knife. Your wall of plastic panels is ready.

By the way, if desired, you can install plastic panels diagonally. It turns out quite interesting, but the work will become more complicated, and there will be much more waste.

However, this method of installation is quite popular.

Among the huge variety of ways of external and internal design of buildings and structures, wall decoration with PVC panels (made of polyvinyl chloride) takes its rightful place.

Not so long ago, the choice of such a finishing material was not large enough. Panels with a depleted monochrome (one-color) color with a predominance of white were offered on the market.

Currently, the color palette has been greatly enriched through the use of new dyeing technologies and the application of various patterns in the form of abstract patterns or imitations for other more expensive finishing materials of artificial or natural origin.

There are many types of PVC panels. They may differ:

• by appointment - for facing walls (thicker) or ceilings (thinner);
• in length and width;
• by type of connecting lock and method of fastening;
• according to the method of drawing;
• along the surface topography.

The design of PVC panels is a cellular-channel structure formed by the upper and lower horizontal planes interconnected by longitudinal bridges. This design has good soundproofing and heat-shielding properties.

They are mainly used for cladding walls, partitions or ceilings of glazed loggias, balconies, utility rooms. Often you can find ceilings lined with them in kitchens, bathrooms and toilet rooms. Sometimes they are used to decorate rooms with a humid microclimate as a budget (cheap) replacement for ceramic tiles.

They are also used for facing and protecting the facades of buildings or their parts (for example, plinths). Such exterior panels can have a textured embossed finish and imitate stone, brick or even wood. For cladding the outer surfaces of walls, panels are also specially produced with an outer surface resembling a clapboard with a specific configuration of the seam characteristic of this type of finish.

This type of cladding is not recommended for finishing residential premises or places where people spend most of the day. The inability of such a coating to pass air and steam leads to the creation of an unfavorable microclimate in such premises and the impossibility of creating coziness and comfort required for human life.

Neighboring panels are interconnected by means of a lock similar to a parquet spike, which uses the elastic properties of polymer plastic and creates an almost hermetic joint. The lock can be of two types - with a broadened lower part, designed for direct attachment of the panel to the frame using screws or nails, as well as with a thin groove, on one of the side faces for attaching with special metal clamps, which, in turn, are nailed or screwed to frame.

Sizes can vary greatly. So, for example, less durable panels with a thickness of 5 mm are used for cladding ceilings, and with a thickness of 8 ... 10 mm - for cladding walls. They can be from 200 to 370 mm in width, and vary in length from 2.6 to 3 meters.

The drawing on the panel is applied both by means of hot knurling and by the method of lamination, that is, finishing the outer front layer with a polymer film with graphic patterns.

With a sufficiently even surface intended for cladding, the panels can be mounted using adhesive mastics designed for gluing PVC products. However, for greater reliability, it is better to use wooden or metal frames. For the manufacture of wooden frames, square bars with dimensions of 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 mm are suitable. For metal - use bent sheet profiles designed for mounting drywall sheets.

Important: before use, the wooden frame elements must be treated with antiseptics.

Preparing for installation

Calculation of the material required for finishing with plastic panels

Based on the area of ​​​​the surface to be lined, calculate the required number of panels that are required in order to sheathe the walls or ceiling. That is, the finishing area is divided by the area of ​​​​one element. This value is directly dependent on the size of the panels used. When purchasing, you should carefully monitor their similarity, as colors and patterns may vary in shades from batch to batch. You can ask the seller to provide the opportunity to join several panels from different packages and see if they differ in thickness and in color or pattern.

The calculation of the required number of frame elements is performed according to a pre-drawn layout of the panels. At the same time, it is taken into account that the distance between these elements is taken close to or equal to 500 mm. Fastening and leveling in the plane of the frame elements is carried out with screws of the appropriate length, if the frame and the working surface are wooden. For concrete or brick walls, dowel-screws are used, installed in pre-drilled holes, and perforated strips with bent ends are used to align and connect metal elements with walls or ceilings.

To increase the heat-shielding and sound-proofing properties, mineral wool mats or foam boards can be laid between the frame elements.

What tool should you use

The set of tools that require the installation of plastic panels on ceilings and walls is quite minimal:

Surface preparation

The surface of the walls does not require any special preparation, except that, if it is not covered with crumbling plaster, there are traces of soaking and there are areas affected by fungus and mold. Such defects should be eliminated, and the wall should be treated with antiseptics, followed by a primer.

Wall decoration with plastic panels

Let's now consider how to properly attach plastic panels to the wall using a frame. PVC panels and the elements to which they are to be attached are installed in a perpendicular direction. That is, if the installation of plastic panels on the wall requires a vertical arrangement, the frame elements are fixed horizontally on the walls, and vice versa.

The frame slats are fixed to the walls in 500 mm increments. This size was not chosen by chance. If the step is larger, the stiffness of the cladding will be lowered, if more often, there will be an excessive waste of material. Panels are attached to the frame with nails or self-tapping screws. If the panel design does not provide for self-attachment, clamps are used. Each subsequent one snaps into the lock of the previous one, and an almost imperceptible perfect seam is formed that does not require additional finishing.

If for some reason the frame device cannot be completed, there is nothing left but to glue the plastic panels to the wall. This is possible under one condition - the working surface should be as even as possible. How to fix plastic with glue?

First you need to decide what to glue. Glue or adhesive mastic should be chosen so that they have good adhesion (ability to stick) to two dissimilar materials at once - PVC and brick, plaster, wood or other materials that make up the finished surface.

Before proceeding with gluing, the surfaces to be glued must be well cleaned, dedusted and degreased with any organic solvent. A thin layer of glue is applied to the PVC sheet, after which, by pressing and pressing, the adhesive is applied to the slab and wall.

You can assemble a number of panels inserted into each other (up to 3 ... 5 pieces) into a group and it can already be glued to the ceiling or wall. After installation, in order for the panel not to slide along the wall under the influence of gravity, it must be fixed using specially designed and assembled fixtures.

To mask the seams that form along the short side of the panels when they are built up, or in the right and reverse corners of the joints, or at the junction with surfaces that do not need cladding - for different thicknesses of sheets, special plastic profiles of a special configuration are produced, or, as they are also called - " moldings.