Often this old piece of furniture in the kitchen that has lost its presentation, which clearly falls out of the general style of the room, is a cause for controversy: it seems to be time to replace it so as not to spoil the interior - however, it is a pity to throw it away, and the funds do not allow furniture to be “scattered”, even if it has served for a long time.
Dilemma: restoration or decoration?
Old but still strong dinner table, especially if it is made of metal or solid wood, could have lasted for a very long time if the work surface had not suffered from time and long use, or a design no longer suitable in style new kitchen.
All work on the return to life of this important part of the interior of the kitchen, with the restoration of normal functions or their change, can be divided into three categories:
- Restoration;
- Restoration with a change in design;
- Decoration.
On the options for how to update the old kitchen table with your own hands in the best possible way, you should dwell in more detail.
Restoration. This type of work is carried out if the furniture is ideally suited to the interior of the kitchen, but has lost its presentable appearance during long-term operation, or the strength of the structure has suffered from time to time.
Before you start recovery, you need to stock up the following materials and tools:
- grinder, sandpaper different granularity;
- Glue for wood or metal (depending on the material of the underframe);
- Putty for underframe material, primer;
- Special paint of the desired color (for wood or metal), intended for interior work, as well as a small roller and brushes.
If the frame is metal, then the restoration process consists of the following steps:
- Dismantling the tabletop;
- Cleaning the surface from the old coating;
- Puttying the surface for better painting - the special composition of the putty for metal allows you to make the surface smoother, protecting it from oxidation in the future;
- Grinding - necessary in order to remove various roughness to prepare the surface for painting;
- Priming - can be done using special formulations, or you can use the base paint with the addition of a solvent;
- Paintwork The framework must consist of at least two layers. Moreover, each new layer of paint is applied to the already dried up previous layer.
- The tabletop for the restored metal frame can be done as follows:
When restoring wooden furniture, the sequence of steps does not change. However, before proceeding with the restoration of such a surface, it is necessary to strengthen the entire structure of the product:
- Carefully inspect all connection nodes, if necessary, fix them with glue, furniture corners or confirmants (furniture screed). If there are movable connections, check their functionality. If the mechanism is damaged: repair it, replace it, and if such a function is not important, make the assembly static.
- Remove the preserved decorative elements and accessories that may be damaged during further work;
- The countertop, if it is not planned to be replaced, cannot be dismantled.
- Next, you should get rid of the old coating - carefully sand all surfaces, including internal elements frame;
- If there are potholes and chips on the restored planes, cracked seams at the joints, you need to putty them with a special acrylic putty. It is better to level the countertop with a special compound: mix small pieces into PVA glue or carpentry glue. sawdust and fill the existing recesses with this mixture. After the glue has dried, sand all structural elements again;
- If the surface was leveled so that the defects became invisible, and the tree retained its original structure, you can cover the table with tinting (transparent acrylic paints that give any shade to the wood and do not hide the pattern of its fibers);
- After applying the first layer of paint, all structural elements should be carefully sanded - to remove raised wood fibers;
- The next 2 coats of paint are applied at intervals of several hours (so that each has time to dry);
- Finishing - varnishing: for kitchen furniture it is necessary to choose a special varnish that gives a coating that is resistant to mechanical and temperature influences.
- After the varnish is completely dry, the working surface of the table must be covered with several layers of wax - this will give it additional water-repellent properties.
- Remove all dirt (especially grease stains) with detergents. Dry thoroughly.
- Using a grinder, clean the surface, getting rid of the old varnish coating - paint does not adhere well to it.
- Apply a primer (preferably one that protects the wood from moisture penetration) using a roller, brush or aerosol. Be sure to let it dry well.
- Paint in the desired color 2-3 times, applying layers as evenly as possible, giving time to dry each of them. After applying the last layer, leave the product to dry for at least 24 hours.
- Apply wax paste and, using a cotton napkin, carefully rub it into the countertop in a circular motion - repeat the procedure 2-3 times to get a matte, non-sticky surface.
Your old table in a new guise is ready: you need to let him stand for about a day without work, and he will serve you for more than one year!
Restoration with a change in design
Such design is another way to make a new, more spacious kitchen table out of an old kitchen table.
You can go this way if you bought new table to the kitchen, and the old one is still good enough to throw away.
In addition, you can simply restore it by adding a "zest" to the design. How to update an old kitchen table with your own hands in a similar way is shown in the photo - the process itself requires a slightly more detailed description.
To make changes to the design, we need:
Chipboard sheet, 2 bars for legs, 2 planks of chipboard - all of this size to make a table that fits under the old kitchen in size. It is better to fasten the wheels to the legs of a small table - it will be more convenient to use it, and the floor covering will be better preserved.
For the screed, 6 confirmations and 2 furniture corners will be needed, and to combine the two structures, 2 aluminum corners equal to the width larger table.
In addition, we will need: wood putty, enamel in 2 matching shades, varnish and wax paste for finishing surfaces.
Rest assured that the "away" dining space will be hugely popular with the younger members of the family - children will be more comfortable here due to the smaller difference between the height of the chair and the tabletop.
Decoration - for every taste, style and ... wallet
This method of "resuscitation" of the kitchen table is the most exciting, having a variety of ways using the most unexpected materials. When thinking about how to update an old kitchen table with your own hands using decoration, you need to remember the strength of the coating being performed - the surface must be resistant to temperature changes, mechanical stress, and should also be easy to clean.
For decoration, you can use the decoupage method, making various collages on the countertop (especially if used as protective coating glass tops), painting and screen prints.
We offer you one more, in our opinion, very interesting option- decoration with smalt. This solution will be even more original if the working surface of your masterpiece is made of the same mosaic tiles, which is kitchen apron.
We will need:
- Remains of smalt left from the apron, or several matrices (according to the size of the table). As a rule, matrices with tiles have dimensions of 300x300 mm, and the size of smalt squares can vary from 10x10 mm to 20x20 mm;
- Tile adhesive, grout and an old waffle towel;
- Masking tape, spatula and scissors;
- Paint of one of the shades of smalt (on wood); end tape(preferably ABS);
- Lacquer and wax paste for finishing countertops;
1st step. Restoration and painting of surfaces - the actions are similar for all similar products and are given above.
2nd step. We glue the ends of the tabletop with masking tape, and apply a thick layer of tile adhesive on the tabletop itself with a spatula, level it, and carefully lay the mosaic matrices pre-fitted in size and color. Gently press down, being careful not to dislodge the pieces. It is necessary to carefully monitor that the ends of the countertop (taking into account the thickness of the smalt) remain even. Let the tiles dry.
3rd step. We do grouting. To do this, we apply the grout diluted to the desired consistency on the mosaic, level it with a spatula, removing excess grout with it. Let it dry a little, and then remove the grout from the smalt with a damp sponge.
It is not uncommon for a favorite piece of furniture to lose its original appearance, and there is simply no way to buy a new one. financial resources. In such cases, furniture restoration can help. Let's take a closer look at how to restore a table at home, what is important to consider and what stages should not be missed.
Ways
There are quite a few ways to restore furniture, ranging from a light “cosmetic” decor to a major alteration of the product. Restoring an old table with your own hands is not so difficult if it does not have any serious damage. In this case, it will be enough to process with sandpaper and paint old item furniture to make it shine in a whole new light.
Repair glass tables at home can be more labor intensive and also a very costly process. If there is a breakage of the glass surface, it may be necessary not only to repair it, but also to buy a new one, since not all glass deformation can be eliminated by gluing and grinding.
The greatest scope for creativity opens up during restoration wooden table. After all, various painting and patterning techniques, including the “decoupage” technique, are perfectly applied to solid wood furniture. It is worth noting that painting and various decorative techniques are most applicable to small tables. This can be used to finish, for example, a small desk or a compact coffee table. But for the restoration of the oak folding model, additional resources may be needed. Since the table has a large solid surface, it is quite acceptable to finish its parts with materials such as MDF and chipboard. Securely fixed and carefully processed, they will give the table not only new life, but they will also give a completely different appearance.
plastic table can be restored using the same painting, but this can only be done if the piece of furniture does not have serious cracks. Plastic is a rather capricious material, and when exposed to high temperatures the glued seam may not withstand, resulting in a new breakage.
Computer tables made of chipboard and chipboard are often peeled off, as a result of which their appearance becomes sloppy and careless. For the repair of such models, special adhesive tapes and films imitating a wooden surface.
The kitchen table-book needs to be reconstructed as carefully as possible, using exclusively environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic materials. Since the countertop comes into contact with food quite often, care must be taken that the materials for finishing its surface are not toxic and unhealthy. The same applies to the children's table.
Restoration of a polished dining table can be done by grinding the surface and applying a new layer of decorative varnish to it. So the surface of the furniture attribute will again acquire a glossy sheen.
Sometimes you may need to increase the height, for example, dressing table, in case of breakage of its legs. In this case, special allowances or new legs of the required size are constructed from wood material. To update any model, you can also use the classic hand-painted. This technique is also suitable for sliding tables without any critical damage to the surface.
Materials and tools
The restoration process may require various materials and tools.
Let's take a closer look at their list and purpose:
- To restore tables with a wooden surface, you will definitely need a grinding machine or coarse sandpaper. With these tools, you can make the surface smooth, removing all the roughness;
- To give the surface a fresher look and a different color, you will need a completely ordinary paint. Finding out which variety you can paint the table is quite easy, since the scope is almost always described on the packaging of any manufacturer;
- It is best to apply various patterns and ornaments with acrylic paint, since it is very resistant and will stay on the surface of the furniture for a long time.
To repair any individual parts of the table, you may need various construction tools:
- For example, with a hammer, screws and simple nails, you can properly fix the legs of the table;
- To fasten panels made of plastic and MDF, it will be necessary to acquire a special glue, which is also called liquid nails and often used in repairs;
- To work with wooden parts, you must have small saw or a jigsaw, with the help of which it will be possible to cut out the necessary detail from a piece of solid wood.
It is impossible to lose sight of various small details, which greatly simplify the restoration process. So it’s better to have a large ruler or tape measure, a bright marker or pencil, construction tape, brushes to remove dust and sawdust, protective equipment and a damp cloth with you.
Step by step update process
Repairing a piece of furniture at home as a whole, in the form in which it is, is an almost impossible task, since many details need an individual approach. For example, it is better to remove the countertop during the finishing of the remaining parts in order to protect it from causing even more damage.
Self-restoration of even the smallest table can be a very time-consuming process if the approach is not correct, skipping important details and steps. It is for the timely implementation of each stage of work that it is necessary to draw up an action plan.
Damage Inspection
Before proceeding with the restoration, it is necessary to carefully examine the front of the upcoming work. Very often there are products with serious damage, which cannot be dealt with only by means of a cosmetic finish. For example, if a table leg has fallen off, painting will not fix it.
The first step is to disassemble the table, if the model allows it., and carefully examine the surface of each part for serious damage. If there are none, you can proceed to further actions, depending on the intended restoration work.
If the surface of the parts has rather deep cuts, severe chips or serious damage, it will be necessary to take measures to eliminate them. In the event that damage cannot be simply repaired, it may be necessary to resort to replacing any part of the furniture attribute.
Only after a thorough examination and identification of all the "weak points" of a piece of furniture, you can draw up a further plan of action and proceed directly to the process of restoration work itself. Consistency is very important in this case.
Grinding
In any repair process, after determining the "front of work", the stage of cleaning and smoothing the surface follows. Restoration of tables is no exception and, regardless of their varieties, polishing separate parts is an essential part of the whole process.
If there is no special device for grinding the surface at hand, you will need to use sandpaper. To remove the leftovers old surface you need a coarse-grained surface.
If it is possible to use a belt machine for grinding surfaces, you should opt for it, as it will help speed up the process. But you should know that the machine is only suitable for processing spacious flat surfaces, and small details still have to be processed manually.
If the coating is removed completely and it is only necessary to give the surface smoothness, fine-grained paper should be used. Thus, the roughness will be smoothed out without damaging the surface. In no case should you sand the surface across the fibers, since they are quite damaged and scratches of different depths form. Processing is carried out exclusively along the location of the fibers. It is also worth using a respirator or a special mask in order to avoid getting dust and small particles of wood into the respiratory tract.
putty
As mentioned earlier, in the presence of severe damage and deep scratches, it will be necessary to get rid of them. The most simple and accessible way is putty. In addition, putty can be repaired even the most big holes, so that part replacement may no longer be a necessity.
It is necessary to use only special putty for wood, since the usual composition for others repair work will not fit and will not adhere to a wooden surface.
If the surface of the product has only not deep cracks, you can use the stain, and then apply several layers of protective varnish. In this way, the fibrous structure of the wood elements will be preserved and beautifully designed.
After applying putty and before applying final coverage the surface must be carefully primed and sanded again. The primer will help degrease parts of the furniture attribute, and re-sanding will smooth out the remaining irregularities.
Painting
The final and very important stage, requiring special attention, is the surface painting process. It is important not only to choose the right paint, but also carefully apply it without various formations, lumps, irregularities and protect the freshly painted surface from the ingress of small particles of wool, dust and hairs.
Dark shades are best applied in several thin layers. So the paint will grab better, and the color will turn out to be more saturated.
To create the effect of antiquity and scuffs, the painted surface of the table will need to be sanded in certain places.
You should carefully select the shades and apply the paint very carefully, because if you are dissatisfied with your work, it will be quite difficult to repaint the table, you will have to re-do all the laborious work, starting from the surface grinding stage.
In order for the gloss to shine beautifully on the surface, the surface should be treated with a layer of varnish, and after it dries, with a protective layer. Most often, various polishing compounds are used to protect the surface of furniture, as well as wax mixtures, which, when rubbed into the surface of the table, will give it a glossy shine, protect it from dirt and large accumulations of dust.
You can see how to update the old table in the next video.
Finishing and decoration
After painting or during its process, if desired, you can additionally decorate the surface of the table, giving it a lighter, more relaxed and informal look. Consider the most common and beautiful ways decor of the restored tables:
- Decoupage technique. To decorate the table in this style is used White background, special glue, thin napkins with ornaments and patterns or special paper for decoupage, as well as varnish, which covers the final layer. The paper is superimposed on a thin layer of glue and leveled, after drying it is necessary to cover the surface with varnish.
Soviet-era furniture - walls, cabinets, chests of drawers - does not differ in beauty, but is reliable and strong. Well, it's just that the hand does not rise to take it to the landfill. And rightly so. It is very easy to update it, giving it a completely new sound and a modern look. Alteration of cabinet-type furniture may not be very difficult: there are materials that allow you to significantly change the appearance with little effort. Most easy way— change the color and fittings. With fittings, everything is clear - choose what is more suitable for the style, and the color changes in two ways - paint and glue the film (or wallpaper).
Alteration of the old wall: changing the design
Pasting old furniture with self-adhesive film is the easiest way to change the decor. The film is today both monophonic and color, different colors, textures and shades. It does not make sense to glue a film with a wood pattern: otherwise it is in trend today. But plain or with a pattern - this is what can turn an old wall into new furniture. The actions are simple, but the work requires accuracy. But the result is excellent. See two photos. On the first one there is an old Soviet wall from before the renovation, on the second - after.
Updating the old furniture wall- before and after
Now about how it was updated. A compacted self-adhesive furniture film was used, cream color, matte surface. The open part of the old wall was closed with glass doors; a translucent matte film was taken for the glass. Edging - furniture layout (also self-adhesive) color chrome. The order of work is as follows:
- Everything that can be removed, removed, disassembled. Remove old hardware.
- Surfaces must be clean and free of grease. This is easier to achieve with a soft cloth dipped in detergent for dishes. Then everything is washed away warm water with a little vinegar. Wipe clean with a dry cloth.
- Cut out the details. It is better to cut the film 8-10 mm more. The rest is then cut off with a paper cutter.
- Spray the part to be glued with water from a spray bottle. On a wet surface, the film can be moved if something goes wrong. You can even peel it off without damaging it.
- Taking it off the film protective layer, lay out carefully. Aligned, start smoothing soft cloth from the middle to the edges. Try not to have bubbles. To do this, you need to move gradually, without jumping from place to place.
- If there is still a bubble, it can be pierced with a thin needle approximately in the middle. Then expel air from the edges of the bubble to the hole and wipe the puncture site.
- After gluing the film, we take a clean thin cotton fabric, spread it on top and iron it with a warm iron (medium heat).
- We glue the trim, install new handles.
Such a sequence of work with every detail. With glass, everything is the same, only you need to glue it on the inner surface. After assembly, you have an updated wall. This technique can be used for any item: chest of drawers, bedside tables, wardrobe, etc.
For example, after a successful experiment with the wall, they redid it in the same way old wardrobe and added it to the right. Now the whole wall is occupied. In the same way, you can update the kitchen set: glue self-adhesive film and replace the handles.
There is a second way. It is a modification of the proposed method, but simpler and less laborious. Only the doors are pasted over and not with a film, but with non-woven wallpaper. Wallpaper is glued to PVA glue. To prevent the edges from bulging, the parts are cut 5 mm less on all sides. It turns out a kind of edging. Everything looks good (example in the photo below).
What is good about this method: it is easy to change the decor. Tired of the old appearance, cut off the wallpaper, pasted new ones. Despite the fact that the method seems frivolous, the appearance persists for several years. Its author even tried it on a kitchen set. Only the wallpaper on top is covered twice with PVA glue. In this case, the lockers can be washed. It is important to apply a layer of varnish evenly, without sagging, there are no other difficulties.
Sometimes the wallpaper is varnished. But before you do it, try it on an unnecessary piece: see how they react to it.
When choosing a varnish, you need to remember that acrylic and cellulose varnishes remain transparent after drying, polyurethane turns yellow after a while. Also, polyurethane is almost not softened by solvents: it can only be removed mechanically (from wood it is cleaned with sandpaper).
Dresser update
The old chest of drawers stood for who knows how many years in the attic, but it is very strong and reliable, not a single gram of cracked, only the polishing cracked. In terms of strength, it far exceeds modern products. This is the feature that is inherent in the old, still Soviet times, furniture. It is not very detailed (to put it mildly), but after standing for several decades in poor conditions, it remains strong. The makeover of the chest of drawers is more complicated: two techniques were used: painting, and then decorating with polyurethane moldings and wallpaper.
Step 1. We remove the accessories, remove the old coating. In some places the polishing was scraped off, in some places it was polished with sandpaper. Chips were covered with putty on wood, waited until it dries. At the final stage, everything was cleaned with a sandpaper with a fine grain. At the same time, the chest of drawers became the same as in the photo below.
This is after it has been puttied and smoothed with sandpaper.
Step 2. Installation of polyurethane moldings. When choosing moldings, make sure that they are not voluminous: too thick on a small chest of drawers will look very rough. They should be no wider than 5 cm and as narrow as possible when viewed from a profile.
Purchased polyurethane moldings are neatly cut, the corners are sawn down at 45 °. (). The pattern match must be perfect. We glue them on PVA. For reliability, you can additionally fix it on self-tapping screws with wide caps. A small recess is made under them, after the screw is screwed in, the hole is covered with putty. Try to ensure that the putty immediately lays down perfectly (you can touch it up with a wet finger), since it is problematic to clean off the dried one.
Moldings are glued and put on self-tapping screws
Step 3 Everything is treated with a primer. You can use PVA glue diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2. After the primer dries, paint (two layers). Acrylic paint was chosen for this case. water based. The color is coffee with milk, although it looks very different in the photo. Color rendering is inaccurate.
This is after the second application of paint. pretty
Step 4 For decoration, wallpaper was chosen, in which the coating is made using the silk-screen printing technique. Pieces are cut according to the size of the inside of the frames from the moldings, glued to the PVA. After the glue dries, the entire chest of drawers is coated twice with a water-based varnish.
Step 5 And the last to install new legs (furniture wheels) and handles.
We install handles and legs)) The updated chest of drawers is not at all like the one you saw in the first photo.
As you can see complex work no. Everything is really elementary. But all processes require accuracy - the appearance depends on it. You can also update old wardrobe. Get a set for the room. Stylish and original.
When updating furniture, the worst thing is if the surface is varnished. The polish takes a long time to peel off. If the surface is smooth and polishing is not damaged, you can apply a primer for difficult surfaces on it, and paint after drying. This greatly speeds up the process of painting lacquered furniture.
If you have kids and a dacha or yard, you might be interested in reading with lots of photos. And about
How to update an old nightstand
In the photo gallery below you can see the restoration process of an old polished nightstand. First, the old polishing was removed from it, puttied, sanded, and after processing it was painted twice with acrylic paint. Then paper with an interesting pattern was glued to the doors (it was a gift paper bag). After drying, everything together was covered with two layers of semi-gloss acrylic varnish.
The sequence of work is simple if you know how to do it. All processes will repeat the sequence of actions that you saw in the example of updating the chest of drawers. The result is also impressive.
Remaking furniture with your own hands is a painstaking task, but the result is worth it. Below is a photo of a bedside table restored using a simple technique: it is pasted over with embossed wallpaper, and varnish is applied twice on top.
Table makeover
By the same technology banal Coffee table can be turned into a modern piece of furniture. In this case, it was pasted over with wrapping paper. It is dense, sticks well and does not sag when applying varnish.
Before starting work on decorating the tabletop, the legs of the old table and the edges of the tabletop were painted in a light color: this way it suits the new design style more. Then began the process of its transformation.
When pasting, the panel is cut out much larger than the dimensions of the tabletop. So it is necessary. Paper is glued on PVA, rolled with a roller so that there are no lumps and swellings. The surface must be absolutely smooth.
After pasting, take sandpaper with fine grain (it is more convenient to work if it is attached to a bar). Passing it along the edge, they bend and at the same time separate the excess paper.
Even cutting on a guillotine you will not get a fairly even edge. And with this method, it turns out to be designed professionally. Do-it-yourself and does not smell.
After the glue dries, the surface is covered twice thin layer varnish. It should be applied with a soft brush in a small amount. Layers are applied in different directions: first along the long side, then across.
Alteration of furniture: photo ideas
Remaking furniture with your own hands is a creative business. Even a boring one can be made into a great thing. And it is not necessary to repeat exactly what you saw. Many useful ideas comes during the execution of the "project". The only pity is that some of the plans are not as attractive as it seemed. Try, experiment. Fortunately, modern technology allows you to do this at minimal cost.
Many people have stored at home or somewhere in the country old furniture. And most often these are not expensive antiques from tsarist times, but the most ordinary cabinets, chests of drawers, tables and chairs. At first glance, it may seem that most of these things are long overdue, but take a closer look - often these are solid solid wood products, or maybe even forged metal, which will last for more than one year, if they are beautifully restored. In this article, we will talk about ways to decorate tables - kitchen, dining, coffee, work - different in size and shape.
However, many of the options presented are equally suitable for other interior items. Perhaps these examples will inspire you to turn nondescript shabby furniture into a real work of art, because it's so nice to contemplate the beauty made by your own hands!
12 Ways to Give New Life to an Old Table
1. Painting
The best way to update a dilapidated table is to paint it, but first you need to prepare the surface. A paint remover will help clean the product from the previous finish.
If there is rust on metal legs or fittings, it should be soaked liberally with vinegar, Coca-Cola or special means, and after 15-20 minutes wipe with a hard scraper.
The wood is sanded with sandpaper, dust is removed, then impregnated with an antiseptic and a primer is applied. All chips, cracks and irregularities are rubbed with acrylic putty on wood.
For painting, you can use alkyd enamel, acrylic or epoxy paints, varnishes, aerosol compositions for metal. You will also need painting tools- brush, roller, sponge, sprayer.
To give the table a more spectacular look - it can be painted not entirely, but only individual parts. For this you will need masking tape or stencils.
2. Art painting
If a monochromatic finish seems too boring, try decorating an old table with patterns. Drawings can be applied with a brush and acrylic paints - manually, through a stencil or according to outlines made using tracing paper.
Table with artistic painting perfectly complement the interior in ethnic or rustic style, and images of animals, fairy-tale and cartoon characters will appeal to children.
3. Decoupage
For such a decor, you will need a brush, patterned paper napkins, PVA glue and clear furniture varnish.
Pictures are carefully torn off or cut out with scissors, the lower layers of paper are removed, then the resulting thin applications are placed in the designated place, and smeared with glue on top, trying to avoid wrinkles and tears.
If some element cannot be attached the first time, it must be immediately wiped off with a sponge moistened with warm water and try again with a similar fragment.
The dried decoupage is covered with a transparent varnish for furniture in several layers, otherwise the paper decor will quickly be erased.
4. Craquelure
Craquelure is a crackling lacquer that is deliberately given a look that mimics the texture of antique paintings. It can be one-step (the composition is applied in one layer and cracks as it dries) and two-step (two mixtures are used - one based on epoxy resins, the second - water-based, they interact and a characteristic texture is obtained). The color of the veins is determined by the bottom layer acrylic paint, as well as a touch of grout. Most often, powdered golden pigment or pastel is used for this purpose.
Two-step craquelure is usually complemented with decoupage or hand painting to achieve the effect of an aged painting. One-step is more suitable for products without patterns.
5. Tiles
It happens that after the repair there is a small margin ceramic tiles. It can be used to decorate an old table - just tile it wooden base. The laying technology in this case practically does not differ from the decoration of walls or floors.
The ceramic surface is ideal for a table in the kitchen, terrace, porch, gazebo or even outdoors.
To give the table an attractive look, in addition to plain tiles, you should use patterned borders, decorative panels (perhaps even with some plots) or a stylish patchwork.
6. Mosaic
Pictures from small fragments adorn many galleries, temples and palaces. They will look just as elegant in the house, for example, on the surface of coffee tables.
Mosaic elements can be ceramic (even broken tiles will do), glass or acrylic.
From improvised materials, small round cuts of wood, chopped CDs, colored pebbles are suitable. You just need to come up with an interesting pattern and attach the pieces to the table with glue or liquid nails.
7. Self-adhesive film
The simplest and most beautiful option for decorating an old table that does not require fuss with paints is sticking a film.
This available material can imitate any coating - from rare woods to marble, it can have any patterns, patterns and textures.
Self-adhesive film is sold in rolls, and it is easy and pleasant to use it.
8. Decorative tape
In the shops of stationery and art supplies, a wide selection of decorative self-adhesive tapes has recently been presented. It will take you no more than 30-40 minutes to decorate an old table with multi-colored tape, and a new bright thing will appear in the interior.
If you want to change the finish, the adhesive strips can be removed just as quickly, and if there is glue left somewhere, acetone will dissolve it without any problems.
9. Epoxy resin
Epoxy resin is a liquid substance that quickly cures in the open air, turning into a hard transparent plastic.
Cracks in wood filled in this way look very unusual, and if luminescent powder is added to the liquid phase, they will glow brightly in the dark.
also in epoxy resin you can put dried flowers, leaves, shells, coins, and due to the transparency of the substance, you get the effect of ice or amber.
The modern market is flooded with a huge variety of materials for decorating rooms, furniture, which makes it easy to update an old one. coffee table without resorting to the services of professionals. In addition, a variety of types, special effects used during decoupage, allow you to achieve a harmonious entry of the updated table into any interior style of the room.
Quite often in life there are situations when you get a table, and after a short time it starts to annoy you with a boring design. However, you should not rush, because today there are so many products that allow you to easily change the style of a coffee table ready to be thrown away. At the same time, among the most common decoration methods, it is worth highlighting:
- decoupage - occupies a leading position relative to other means, since it opens up the opportunity to show an unlimited scope of imagination with total absence experience in the matter;
- mosaic - a rather small range of variable images, but the combination of different shades sometimes amazes with the uniqueness of the design;
- painting is an interesting direction, although it requires certain skills and abilities.
It may be worth trying to decoupage an old coffee table, instead of purchasing a new table for a considerable amount of money.
Types of decoupage
Based on the surface intended for decoration and the effect obtained in the finished form finished product, there are 5 types of decoupage:
- direct decoupage - consists in gluing a decorative element onto a previously prepared front side of the surface, followed by varnishing;
- reverse decoupage is used when decorating surfaces from transparent material(e.g. glass). In this case, the picture is glued not from the front, but from the wrong side, after which the application of paint, varnish and other layers follows, i.e. the sequence of work regarding direct decoupage is carried out in the reverse order;
- smoky decoupage is characterized by blurring the boundaries between the main background and decorative element. This type of decoupage reliably models artistic painting through a combination of various techniques, effects;
- Volumetric decoupage is quite often combined with other types of decoupage. The volume of the decorated surface is given by means of eggshell, special paste, thermal film, fabric and other materials. In addition, the visual volume of the image is achieved by applying in each layer of varnish a pattern that decreases in size towards the finish coat;
- decopatch in its finished form is associated with patchwork quilt, but such decoupage from fabric is quite rare. The most common material for this type is a special paper that imitates fur, leather, fabrics. At the same time, the decorated base is covered completely, and not with separately located motifs.
Despite the similarity of the execution technique, all types of decoupage differ significantly in the result obtained.
Effects used in decoupage
Achieve the style of the decorated object, as close as possible to overall design interior, greatly help the effects produced using certain materials and decoupage techniques.
The main decorative effects include:
- craquelure is a crack artificially formed in the texture, simulating an old thing. The craquelure effect is created by applying a special varnish over the main background paint. To achieve a better effect, the surface can be exposed to hot air from a hair dryer, since cracks are obtained as a result of shrinkage of the binders and uneven drying of the top layer of varnish. At the same time, the size of the cracks largely depends on the technique of applying strokes and the thickness of the varnish layer;
- abrasion mimics a constantly used item long time, as a result of which some places are shuffled. To get the effect necessary places surfaces are rubbed with wax, after drying of which they are rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper;
- patination is manifested in the darkening of the surface in order to age things, resulting in the effect of frequent touching the object with hands;
- potal - the use of gold or silver paints in decoupage when outlining the contour of the applied image, or as applying an independent pattern. At the same time, instead of paints, special sheets are often used that look like gold leaf;
- shading is quite often used in reverse decoupage and consists in achieving a smooth transition from the applied pattern to the main background. Creating the effect comes down to applying paints with a dry brush in the area of \u200b\u200bthe borders of the picture, followed by shading with a foam sponge or pimping;
- toning enters the final stage of decoupage, when the updated surface is tinted by adding small sparkles to the varnish or applying archaically located spots as conceived by the designer. The toning effect allows you to add additional picturesqueness to the decoupage surface.
When decoupage the surface, it is quite possible to combine several decorative effects (for example, craquelure and gold leaf in volumetric decoupage).
Decoupage materials
To decoupage a coffee table with your own hands, you will need:
- brushes with synthetic bristles for painting a contour or any elements, applying paint, varnish, glue, as well as a fan-type brush for gluing elements from a napkin;
- sharp scissors - you can use manicure, stationery, special ones;
- coarse, fine-grained sandpaper;
- paints - watercolor, honey or professional;
- titanium or zinc white;
- PVA glue;
- acrylic lacquer;
- foam sponge or tamping;
- motifs - napkins, free decor, printouts, decoupage cards, etc.
This list can be replenished or reduced in relation to the updated surface, the selected type and complexity of decoupage, special effects.
Coffee table decoupage technology
Before updating an old coffee table, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory activities, the thoroughness of which will affect the finished product.
Table preparation
When preparing the table, the volume preparatory work directly depends on the material from which it is made.
- If the table is plastic, then degrease its entire surface well enough.
- If the table is wooden, then:
- if possible, disassemble the table into its constituent elements;
- using first large and then fine sandpaper, carefully get rid of the layer old paint either varnish, from all the component parts and reassemble the table;
- putty irregularities, deep cracks, joints and let the putty dry;
- apply a layer of primer to the surface of the table using a wide brush;
- after the primer has dried, apply 2-3 coats of paint, drying each coat well to avoid cracking or staining;
- to create artificial cracking, craquelure varnish can be applied to the paint and, without waiting for complete drying, cover the table with white acrylic;
- after the acrylic layer has dried, you should start gluing the motif;
- if the craquelure effect is not used, then the paint is varnished. Moreover, using an aerosol varnish, the surface is covered with a more even layer;
- after drying, walk on the surface of the table with fine sandpaper for better adhesion of the decoupage material to the base.
Preparation of decoupage motifs
Carrying out decoupage or coffee table design, you can use not only professional napkins, films, but also clippings from ordinary magazines, newspapers, photos from an album. At the same time, the process of preparing motifs for gluing is far from the same, therefore:
1. If a multi-layer cloth is used, only the top layer needs to be peeled off. When using a specific napkin motif, it can be cut or torn out when drawing the picture after gluing.
2. If a photographic image is used, then the material must be thinned by:
- rolling off the wrong layer. Varnish is pre-applied on the front side to avoid spreading the image, after which the photo is placed face down on the file, and a little water is poured on top. As soon as the bottom layer is saturated, you can start rolling off unnecessary thickness without damaging the image. Upon completion of work, thoroughly clean the surface of the remaining pellets;
- gluing the tape on the wrong side and then removing it along with the bottom layer of paper. If necessary, repeat the procedure until a colored layer appears.
3. When using decoupage cards, the motif is simply cut out strictly along the contour. Before direct gluing, the motif is soaked in water for 10-15 minutes, after which it is dried from excess water on a napkin.
4. The preparation of the freedecor film is similar to the preparation of decoupage cards, with the only difference that the film is equipped with an adhesive layer, so after soaking it is immediately glued to the base.
Options for gluing motifs to the base
Currently, there are 3 ways to glue the motif to the surface:
1. The hot method is based on the use of an iron, therefore it is suitable for perfectly flat surfaces:
- apply a thin layer of glue on the base and leave until the top layer dries so that it does not stick. In this case, the middle of the adhesive layer should be wet;
- apply a motif to the dried glue and carefully smooth it with your hands;
- Lay parchment carefully on top.
- heat the iron to the maximum, while the steam function should be turned off;
- iron, gently pressing, the workpiece with the image, especially the edges;
- remove parchment;
- if the edges are poorly glued, then the procedure should be repeated.
2. The dry method requires extreme care. The procedure for gluing the motif with a dry method is as follows:
- put the image on the base, straighten it;
- dipping the brush in glue, glue the motif to the base, moving from the center to the edges;
- the glue protruding beyond the edges of the image must be immediately removed with a cotton pad dipped in water.
3. The wet method is to use a stationery file:
- put a motif on the file front side down;
- dilute glue or acrylic varnish in water in a ratio of 10: 1;
- pour the prepared mixture onto the file and wait until the motif is thoroughly soaked;
- the folds that appear during the wetting of the motif must be smoothed out, and the air should be carefully removed to the edges;
- drain excess liquid;
- carefully attach the file with the motive to the base, slightly leveling with your hands;
- if the motif does not peel off, then you can pick up the edge and reattach the file to the base;
- if, when deleting the file, a gap formed on the motif, then by adding a little water, you need to correct the situation with your hands.
Thus, when gluing the motif on the tabletop, you can use any, the most acceptable, method.
Final decoupage work
- If necessary, outline the contour of the glued motif or supplement the image with artistic painting, apply the effect of creating shadows, toning, ceiling and others.
- Let dry.
- Apply 2-3 coats of topcoat varnish at the intervals required for each coat to dry.
Do top coat the following method will help smoother: pour water into a small bowl and, dipping your finger into it, smooth out the stripes left by the bristle of the brush. This procedure is carried out immediately after applying the varnish, until it seizes.
Thus, in order to decoupage a coffee table, a master class is not at all necessary, because having become acquainted with the main types and effects of decoupage, as well as the technology of work, you can easily create your own unique masterpiece, while realizing all your fantasies.