There are situations when a person needs temporary housing, where you can take a break from work and spend your free time. Particularly relevant are the carriages, which are used as change houses, where builders, security guards and the military live. Also, the car can be good and used for personal purposes.
Dimensional drawing and construction trailer project
Any construction involves the presence of elements such as a diagram and a drawing. It is the graphic image that allows you to avoid problems when building a change house. The project is inherently simple, so it is quite possible to draw up it yourself.
To do this, it is not necessary to be an expert in drawing, it is enough to know the basic design features of the car and be able to depict them on paper by completing the markings. How to make a full-fledged project and draw up a drawing correctly, we will analyze further.
At the planning stage, the issue of the functionality of the change house is being decided. It is on this parameter that the drawing and the general scheme depend. If the area involves temporary housing, this must include three separate rooms:
Drawing of the construction device of a construction trailer - bathroom;
- bedroom;
- the kitchen.
If desired, all three rooms can be combined into one, and separated by ordinary interior screens. They also pay attention to the mobility of the structure. If there is a need to move it and put it on wheels, then another drawing is added to the project: marking the bottom and attaching it to the walls. Individual elements include windows and doors, as well as a ventilation system, which is difficult to do without in such a confined space.
The carriage itself can be either small or large, providing accommodation for a maximum of 5-8 people at a time. When the wheels are attached, the change house can become a magnificent mobile home, thanks to which you can travel the world with your home.
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How to make a drawing
Before starting work, the appropriate measurements are taken with a ruler. The height of the structure should be at least the height of a person plus 50 cm. This will create the most comfortable living conditions, reducing the cost of additional building materials. The width is calculated in accordance with its purpose, as well as the length. This includes the following indicators:
- The number of people living;
- Number of rooms;
- The area of individual plots and the total area of the building;
- The need for frequent transportation of the carriage over long distances.
When all measurements have been made, they begin to draw. Note that drawings can be created not only with your own hands using paper and a pencil, but also with the help of special graphic editors. The latter significantly save time and allow additional calculations of the amount of required building material.
Drawing and layout with the dimensions of the construction trailer If it is not possible to connect computer technologies when a change house project is created, you can make a drawing. The main drawing (top view) should display the following indicators:
- Walls and their thickness;
- Location of rooms;
- Means of communication and their location.
If there are many rooms, additional drawings of individual rooms are required, where all components are shown in more detail, up to the location of furniture. If it is possible to create a two-dimensional image, then you can make a do-it-yourself drawing of the outer part of the trailer, which indicates the frame, its thickness and the place of attachment. This scheme is more than satisfactory for the construction of the most primitive trailer used as a change house.
What is the drawing for
Drawings are not only a guideline for DIY construction. 
They represent a complete document that is approved by the developer (when used for commercial purposes). If the cabins are being built for home use, their frame may have different rigidity. For a construction project, the drawing must take into account all the subtleties, as well as the building material used in the construction of the structure.
The schematic diagram clearly shows the projected object, allowing you to eliminate the option of inconveniences and miscalculations even at the planning stage, saving time for further alterations.
Also, drawings help to save money. As strange as it may sound, it is much cheaper to build the frame of the change house and sheathe it with metal sheets than to buy a ready-made trailer. Any drawing is accompanied by a TO (technical justification), where the projected trailer is described in more detail in words.
The first thing to start with is to determine for what purposes the change house will be used. It is usually erected directly on the site before the start of the construction of the main house. You definitely need to have space for storing tools, preparing food, weather protection, and more. It is possible that workers will live in it in winter, and it may be necessary to store boards or other dimensional material there, all this must be taken into account even at the construction planning stage.
Where is the best location? If we proceed from the fact that the change house is still a temporary building, then it can be installed, in principle, anywhere on the land plot. Naturally, it is necessary to build at some distance from the future building site, construction equipment passageways and storage sites for building materials. You should also avoid lines for laying communications and the future place of drilling a well. If at the end of construction, you are going to move the construction trailer to another location, provide access roads for a manipulator or crane.
What size change house to make?
To determine the size of the change house, decide whether you are going to stay in it overnight, store large building materials or house workers, and also heat the room in the winter. In this case, a size of 2.4 meters wide by 6 meters long will be optimal. If you plan to use the building only for storing tools and clothing, as well as shelter from the rain, then it is quite possible to get by with a smaller size, for example, 2 by 4 meters.
Basically, you can build a change house of any size based on your needs. However, it should be borne in mind that if in the future you are going to sell or simply transport the change house to another place, then it is advisable to keep within certain dimensions. On the roads of Russia, without special escort, it is allowed to transport goods no more than 2.55 m wide and no more than 4 m high (from the road surface). Thus, you should not make a change house more than 2.5 meters high, 2.4 meters wide, no more than 6 meters long and weighing no more than 5 tons. Then an ordinary manipulator will cope with the transportation.
Choosing a foundation for a change house
You do not need to make a solid foundation of monolithic concrete or use piles. The main task is to protect the temporary building from moisture coming from the ground. The most economical option would be to use old sleepers, cinder blocks, or asbestos-cement glasses as a foundation.
Laying is done as follows. Clear grass and debris from the area where the change house will be erected. Remove the fertile soil layer, in the corners and in those places where the supports will be installed (6-8 points are enough). Make a cushion of rubble, sifting or sand, lightly dampen and tamp the material with improvised items. If you are using asbestos-cement glasses, paving slabs can be placed under them to increase the support area. Install cinder blocks or sleepers in one horizon using a building or water level. For better protection of the wooden frame, roofing material can be laid over the supports.
It is enough to simply lay such a foundation yourself with your own hands in a few hours. And when you are going to disassemble the change house, it will not be difficult to dismantle such structures.
Column foundation for a permanent change house
You can also build a more solid, columnar foundation. For it, in addition to rubble, you will need bricks, concrete and reinforcement. The sequence of work will be as follows:
Walls and decoration
After the construction of the foundation, we proceed to the installation of the walls of the change house. If you have used cement mortar to build your foundation, give it at least 3 days to cure. When the concrete hardens, we fasten the lower strapping beam. You can use a board with a section of 100 × 150 mm. We fix the timber to the base using anchors.
We install the corner posts on the lower harness beam, and then the rest of the posts and the upper harness beams. In doing so, consider the following points:
- You can use a board with a section of 50 × 150 mm. Fastening can be done with nails, screw nails and self-tapping screws.
- Knots are best done using cuttings and secured with reinforced corners.
- After leveling the rack, secure it with two long temporary jibs.
- Install the floor joists on the lower strapping bar. If you are going to insulate the floor, you will need to make another filing of the floor from the lower side of the log, on which the insulation will lie.
- Choose the distance between the posts so that it is a few centimeters less than the width of the insulation plates. This will greatly facilitate the further installation of mineral wool. In the places where windows and doors are installed, you should leave the right space.
- Plan immediately and, if necessary, cut out the places where communications (electricity, water, sewage) will pass After installing the frame, sheathe the outer wall with OSB sheets, fill the inner cavities with a heat insulator such as URSA, Isover, Rockwool or others. Sew up the cotton wool with vapor barrier tape. Then you can mount the inner cladding (boards, drywall, plywood and the same OSB sheets). Finish the outside and inside to your taste and budget. At a minimum, the outer walls must be protected from atmospheric precipitation; for this, for example, a galvanized sheet is suitable.
Please note: In frame construction, vertical posts must be reinforced with diagonal ties - permanent jibs. In the construction of a change house, they can be omitted. In this case, additional structural stability will be provided by sheathing sheets well fixed to the racks.
Roof
After the frame is assembled, logs and rafters are installed. For this, the same board that was used in the frame with a section of 50 × 150mm is suitable. From the bottom to the lags, a ceiling filing is nailed, for example, an inch board, plywood, OSB sheets, etc. A vapor barrier film is laid on the surface of the filing, and a mineral wool insulation is placed on it. As a rule, shed roof structures are used in cabins.
Sheathing boards are mounted flat across the rafters, and a roof covering is mounted on them. From economical materials, you can choose slate or galvanized profiled sheet. The metal tile looks more attractive, but it will cost more.
Windows and doors
For a change house, wooden windows are quite suitable, although for good thermal insulation of the room, it is better to choose plastic windows with a double-glazed window. You can install a metal or wooden door. For reliable protection from the cold, you can equip a small vestibule with a second door. If your front door is high off the ground, make a few steps with planks or other building materials that are close at hand.
Heating
If you are going to use a change house in winter, think in advance how the trailer will be heated, with electricity or wood. It is impractical to use more complex systems. Based on the choice of the heating system, take care, first of all, of the safety of the room. Particular attention should be paid to places of contact with open flames, structures subject to strong heat, as well as the correct installation of suitable electrical wiring.
The cost of building a change house with your own hands
In order to save money, it will be a good idea to use the remnants of old building structures that may be present on your site. If you build yourself, completely from new materials, then your amount of expenses will start from 20 thousand rubles, which is half the price for a new ready-made change house from a construction company. In the Moscow region, for example, for 20 thousand you can buy 16 sheets of OSB, 3 packs of insulation, 1 pack of roofing material and a half cube of timber 50 × 50 mm.Video reports on the construction of a change house
When construction is just beginning on your site, the question arises: how to create conditions for temporary residence at the construction site? The best option - you can build a change house with your own hands for a summer residence on your own. This step-by-step instruction will help you solve the problem.
for temporary residence on the site, the best option would be a change house for a summer residence, which you can assemble with your own hands.
Since construction often lasts at least one year, it becomes clear that without the necessary housing that will allow you to rest, eat, sleep and take a shower, or keep your tools under lock and key.
How to build a change house with your own hands - photo instruction
In order for the change house to be reliable, its manufacture should be taken seriously. But how to build a change house with your own hands? This step-by-step guide will help you. If you make yourself or order a summer cottage from the manufacturer, which will be assembled according to the scheme described below, be sure that it will serve you for a very long time. Even after the need to use it as housing disappears, you can use it as a utility room.
To make a change house, you need the following tools:
- Welding machine
- Hammer
- Bulgarian big and small
- Drill with roof nozzle and drills
- Paint brushes
- Screwdriver
- Carpentry corner large and small
- Welding mask
- Roulette 6 meters
- Stapler
- Hacksaw for wood
Before you start making a change house with your own hands, prepare all the necessary tools.
Consumables that will be needed to make a do-it-yourself frame change house:
- Profile pipes 40x60, 40x40, 40x20, 20x20
- Galvanized or colored corrugated board
- Insulation Isover 50-100 mm.
- Hydro-barrier
- Vapor barrier
- Mounting rail 20x40
- Smooth galvanized sheet (can be illiquid)
- Metal primer
- Roofing screws 19mm., In the color of the corrugated board
- Self-tapping screws "flea"
- Self-tapping screws for wood hardened 35mm
- Rivets
- Metal bending elements for corrugated board
- Staples
- OSB board with a thickness of 10mm, and 20mm.
- Metal-plastic window
- Mounting foam
- Electric wire 2x2.5
- Sockets, switches and circuit breakers.
- Entrance door
Starting to manufacture a country house frame change house , I would like to define a certain sequence of the process itself:
- Frame fabrication
- Internal work
- Waterproofing and insulation
- Electricity installation
- Outer cladding
- Installation of doors and windows
Do-it-yourself frame for a change house
In this part of the article, I will tell you step by step how to make a frame for a construction or summer cottage metal change house on your own.
The base of the structure
The base of the frame for the change house must be the strongest and most reliable. Therefore, for its manufacture, we choose a profile pipe 40x60 mm.
First, the pipe is marked and cut to the required dimensions, depending on the required dimensions of the future change house.
Then the pipe is welded to the outer dimensions, and the so-called edging of our base is obtained, or in other words - a rectangle. There should be two such rectangles, and they should be absolutely identical in size. One of them will go for making the floor, and the other for the upper part of the structure.
The base for the change house will be a 40x60 profile pipe, it will bear the greatest load.
If we want the floor to be reliable and not “play” under our feet, then it is necessary to thoroughly boil the “mesh” from the same profile pipe in order to get a strong solid base.
With a standard width of 2.5 meters, it is recommended to weld two or three more longitudinal pipes inside our rectangle along the entire length of the structure, and in the same way along the width every 0.5 meters. As a result, it should look like the image below.
Ready-made metal frame for the floor of the change house, after priming
We make the lower part of the change house
To do this, we need a galvanized sheet, which must be screwed with small self-tapping screws, which are popularly called "flea beetles" to the base of the change house. We straighten the sheet along the entire length of the rectangle we welded, level it and fasten it. After that, the base can be turned over and put down with a screwed smooth sheet. Everything is now ready for the next step.
We sheathe the bottom of the change house frame with galvanizing, and from the inside we scroll it with a mounting rail for further finishing work.
Installation of vertical and horizontal racks
For uprights, we take a 40x40 profile pipe. We cut the pipe according to the dimensions that must correspond to the required structure height. Usually this size is 2.5 meters.
We install the first racks in the corners of our finished base, and set them strictly at an angle of 90 0. To do this, use a carpentry corner.
All vertical racks of the frame must be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees.
After the stand is installed evenly, it is tacked by welding until it can independently maintain its position. And so in all four corners.
In order to put the following additional racks, and keep the correct geometry of the structure, we take the second rectangle, which we made from a 40x60 pipe. It must be placed on top of the racks that are welded in the corners. Make sure with the help of a level that all the racks are strictly vertical, the top and bottom are strictly horizontal, and at the joints of the pipes all corners coincide.
We connect all the components of the frame, set the corners evenly and grab them at all points of contact
Now our "cube" can be scalded with additional struts and struts.
We take pipes 40x40 prepared in advance, cut into 2.5 meters, and weld them in an upright position like corner posts. We recommend making the distance between the posts every meter. At the same time, it is necessary to provide in advance a place for the front door.
It is very important to strengthen our frame with additional stiffeners.
After the vertical posts are in their places, we proceed to the installation of the horizontal ones. There are much fewer horizontal posts. They are located at a height of 1.25m. from the bottom point, and it is enough to scald the entire frame with them in a circle once.
We weld the frame with all the necessary horizontal jumpers
Now it is necessary to strengthen the resulting frame of the change house, which we make with our own hands. To do this, it is necessary to cut 30 cm long pieces from a 20x40 pipe in advance, each edge should be cut off at 45 0. With these spacers, we scald every corner, and with a great desire and the availability of material, we additionally strengthen the floor. The photo below shows how you need to strengthen each corner.
Correct reinforcement with "kerchiefs" of all corners of the frame for the change house looks like this.
Transport loops for metal change houses
In order for the metal change house to be transported many times, it is necessary to make hinges. To do this, we need a cut of a profile pipe and a piece of steel bar. We weld them in the same way as in the photo below, and weld them to the finished frame.
This is how a reinforced loop for transporting a metal change house looks like.
Roof frame in the form of trusses
And so, the lower part and the walls are ready for us. We begin to form the frame for the future roof of our summer cottage.
If it is not planned to put a second floor on the future change house, then it would be logical to make a roof with a slope.
For the manufacture of trusses, you will need a 20x40 profile pipe. The task is to get an isosceles triangle. It is recommended to place such farms every 1 lm. among themselves along the entire length of the structure. An example of roof trusses for a country house is shown in the photo below.
Preparation of the constituent elements for the roof of the future change house
Getting started with interior decoration
Interior decoration begins with the fact that the entire frame must be sheathed with a 20x40 mounting rail from the inside. This is done so that it becomes possible to attach protective membrane films, and the inner lining itself. In our case, we will take it as interior decoration.
Interior decoration - first of all, screw a wooden beam along the entire inner side of the change house
After the entire frame is sheathed with a bar, the stage of waterproofing and vapor barrier of the structure begins.
To the screwed beam, we mount the vapor barrier from the inside of the change house
On the walls, this happens by the method of ordinary stretching of the film, which is cut to the required dimensions, and stapled to the rail.
As for the floor, it is a little different here. It is necessary to repeat the mesh (squares) of the frame with a film in such a way that you get niches for laying insulation in them.
After the whole change house has been sheathed with foil from the inside with our own hands, we proceed to the installation of OSB.
First of all, we put a slab with a minimum thickness of 20 mm on the floor, and fasten it with 35 mm long hardened self-tapping screws for wood.
Before screwing on the plate, attach it and mark with a pencil lines that will indicate to you where the mounting rail is under the plate. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the self-tapping screw will not get into the rail. Do not feel sorry for self-tapping screws, and fasten as often as possible.
The next stage of making a change house with your own hands is the installation of interior decoration. In our case, the OSB plate. Prefabricated windows can be inserted at the same time.
In the same way, the ceiling and walls are sheathed. The only difference is the need to cut out window and door openings.
The next stage is electricity
If you plan to conduct electricity, then this must be done before the walls are insulated, as long as there is access to all the interior places of the walls and ceiling.
Define for yourself such places as:
- Number of sockets
- Location of outlets
- Number of switches
- Location of switches
- Number of lamps and their location
- Possible location of heaters, if needed
- Junction box location
When planning outlets, switches and lighting, mark their location on the walls with a pencil, and use these marks to make holes in the OSB plate. Pull the wire through the entire structure, according to your diagram. Pull the ends of the wire so that it would be convenient to work with them later.
Do-it-yourself change house insulation
We lean the insulation against the OSB, and fasten it to the plate with brackets. The more often the better.
For insulation, as mentioned above, we will use 50 mm ISOVER mineral wool. If necessary, you can 100mm.
We just take the material, cut it to the required size and insert it into each cell of the frame. At the same time, we immediately shoot it with a mounting stapler to the OSB plate that we pre-assembled. I recommend not to save on staples, perform this stage with high quality.
External sheathing with corrugated board
And so, after the electricity is supplied and the structure is insulated, you can start covering the walls with corrugated board from the outside.
Profiled sheeting is the most suitable material for the outer cladding of a change house
Exposing the first sheathing sheet, attach it to the frame and set it as accurately as possible along the bottom and top. When you are sure that the sheet is in the correct position, screw it onto 2-3 screws. After that, take a level and mark with a pencil a line along the entire width of the sheet (along the lower waves), where the corrugated board and the horizontal profile pipe will come into contact. Thus, you will mark the sheet into which you screw the screws strictly horizontally and will not miss the pipe.
Many novice summer residents often ask themselves the question: what is the best way to proceed, buy a ready-made change house or make it yourself? As practice shows, finished products are often of low quality and short-lived. Therefore, we strongly recommend self-construction. You can learn about all its nuances and subtleties from this article.
Why do you need a shed?
Before proceeding with the design and construction of a change house, it is necessary to determine its purpose, because its dimensions, layout and other points largely depend on this. As a rule, the change house performs the following functions:
- residential premises - the building can be used as housing for the period of construction of the main house. Subsequently, it will not be difficult to re-equip it for other household needs, in addition, the change house can serve as an additional summer house, for example, for meeting guests;
- utility room - you can store summer cottage inventory, work clothes, etc. in the room;
- sanitary and hygienic - the change house can be equipped with a bathroom, for example, here you can perform an outdoor shower and install a dry closet.
If desired, the summer cottage can be equipped with a bath or other functions. The main thing is to think well in advance about all your needs and wishes, so that later you do not have to do alterations, as is often the case.
Design - we create a change house on paper
Having decided on the requirements for the change house, you need to create a plan on paper and indicate the dimensions of the structure. Most often, the structure is a 2–3 m by 5–6 m wagon. Of course, it is not necessary to make it elongated. The main thing is that the shapes and sizes allow to realize all the conceived functions.
In order not to puzzle over the layout, you can take ready-made drawings as a basis. Correct the dimensions if necessary. The only thing, we note that it makes no sense to make a building too large, since it will turn out to be not a change house, but a capital structure with completely different construction costs. As a rule, buildings measuring 6x3 m are quite enough for all household needs.
Next, you need to decide on the design and materials. Since the change house is an inexpensive and lightweight structure, which, if necessary, can even be moved from one place to another, we recommend making it out of wood. Next, we will consider two construction technologies using this natural material:
- frame - this is the cheapest, fastest and easiest way to build, but keep in mind that the strength and durability of frame cabins is not their greatest strength;
- from a bar in the form of a log house - like log houses, such cabins are strong and durable, but more expensive than frame counterparts.
The basis of the frame structure, as it is not difficult to guess, is a frame made of timber. It consists of racks located with a pitch of 600 mm, and connected to each other by the lower and upper strapping (horizontally arranged boards or timber). To strengthen the racks, braces and horizontal jumpers are additionally used. The space of the frame is filled with insulation and sheathed.
The distance of 600 mm between the racks is indicated for a reason - it is for such a step that thermal insulation boards, as well as OSB, are designed. If desired, the step can be changed, but in this case, you will have to cut the insulation and sheathing.
Before proceeding with the construction of a frame change house, draw up a diagram of the walls and floors, indicating the dimensions of all parts. This will allow you to calculate the amount of lumber and make an estimate. We will talk in more detail about the materials that will be used in the construction below.
It is even easier to calculate the lumber for a log cabin: to find out the number of crowns, simply divide the height of the wall by the height of the cross-section of the bar. The length of each crown is already indicated on the plan. Therefore, an additional project may not even be done.
Foundation - even a change house needs a good foundation
If you install a change house for a month or two, then it is not necessary to build a foundation for it. It will be quite enough to add crushed stone, leveled in a horizontal position. To protect the bottom of the building from moisture, several beams or bricks / blocks should be placed on the backfill.
If the change house will be used as a permanent structure, you cannot do without a foundation. Of course, there is no need to carry out a massive tape structure in our case. It is more expedient to make a lightweight base in the form of separate columns, interconnected by beams (grillage). We begin construction with the preparation of the site: we get rid of the vegetation layer of the soil, after which we mark the site according to the design dimensions of the structure.
Then you need to prepare holes for posts about 40 cm deep, located at a distance of one and a half meters from each other along the length and width of the structure. Cover the bottom of the holes with a layer of sand and gravel 150-200 mm thick. Be sure to tamp the bedding well and level it horizontally. Then build posts of blocks or bricks 30-40 cm above the ground. Treat the surface of the posts with bitumen, then cover with several layers of roofing material.
Next, you need to lay the beams (timber 150x150 mm) along the perimeter of the columnar foundation. To fasten the timber to the posts, use special fasteners, the so-called pins. When laying the grillage, be sure to make sure that the beams are horizontal. If necessary, you can align the position of the beams by placing bars or boards under them, but in general, try to ensure a horizontal plane even at the stage of erecting the posts.
The timber can be connected to each other "in half a tree" - in this case, smooth grooves with a depth of half a timber are made at the joints of the beams. The grooves must be reciprocal, i.e. in one bar, the groove is cut from the top, and in the second, respectively, from the bottom. Additionally, the joints can be reinforced with self-tapping screws and steel corners. In the same way, the floor beams are laid and cut into the extreme beams.
We build a change house quickly and cheaply - the nuances of frame technology
To build a frame change house, you will need the following materials:
- timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 35x100 mm;
- mineral mats with a thickness of 100 mm and a density of 25–35 kg / m 3;
- vapor barrier;
- wind and moisture insulation;
- finishing material - lining, block house, etc.
We begin the construction of walls with the installation of corner posts, which are made of 100x100 mm timber. To fix them, use corners and self-tapping screws, reinforce them with braces. After making sure that all the racks are vertical, connect them with an upper strapping, for which use a 35x100 mm board.
If the roof of the shed is lean, do not forget to make one long wall 30-40 centimeters higher than the other.
Then you can install intermediate posts made of boards. They are attached to the upper and lower strapping with metal corners. To give the structure rigidity, fix horizontal jumpers between them in a checkerboard pattern. In addition, install horizontal planks from the same boards above and below the openings.
If the roof of the structure is gable, lay the floor beams on the wall frame. Since practically no load will be carried by the beams, you can use the same boards of 30-100 mm. Install them with the edge on the harness and secure in this position using the corners. The step of the boards can be made about 40 cm.
After that, you can proceed with the insulation and sheathing of the frame. It is better to start from the roof, but we will consider this stage separately, and now we will insulate the floor and walls. Thermal insulation of the floor begins with the laying of the subfloor on the floor beams. Since it will not perform the bearing function, any boards can be used for these purposes. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rough flooring, and then the floor joists are installed. Remember to align the logs horizontally.
All roll materials, i.e. vapor barrier, wind protection and waterproofing, mounted with an overlap of 15-20 centimeters. Moreover, it is advisable to glue the joints of the canvases with butyl-rubber double-sided sealing tape, which will ensure complete tightness of the joints.
Further, the lag space must be filled with heat-insulating material, for this you can use both mineral wool and any other insulation. The surface of the log and thermal insulation must be protected from moisture with another layer of waterproofing film. Then you can install the boarding.
In approximately the same way, the ceiling ceiling is insulated - the space between the floor beams or rafters (if the roof is single-pitched) is filled with insulation. To fix the plates, you can pull a wire or a nylon cord between the beams in a zigzag manner. Then a vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from below with a stapler. On top of the vapor barrier, a lath is made from a 20x30 mm rail, to which a lining or other finishing material is attached.
If the thickness of the rafters is not enough to fix the insulation between them, build them up with a bar or boards.
One of the most important points is wall insulation. Not only the comfort of staying in the room and the energy efficiency of the building depend on it, but also the durability of the entire structure. We start thermal insulation with the installation of a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the frame from the inside of the walls. Previously, it is advisable to stick a sealing tape on the racks, so that subsequently there is no depressurization of the circuit in the areas where the film is attached to the frame. The vapor barrier is fixed using a stapler - the staples are hammered in with a step of 100-150 mm.
Then the space of the frame must be filled with mineral mats. In the process of warming, observe one main rule - there should be no cracks in the walls anywhere. If cracks have formed, they need to be clogged with scraps of mineral wool, otherwise cold bridges will form. Upon completion of the thermal insulation of the frame, fasten the moisture-wind protection from the outside. The membrane is installed according to the scheme described above.
On top of the windscreen, a crate is attached to the frame. As a rule, the slats are arranged vertically. To fasten the battens, use self-tapping screws, screwing them in with a pitch of 25 mm. Then the wall cladding is done outside the OSB. Plates are also attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. In order not to cut out the cladding in advance, door and window openings can be cut with a jigsaw in place, i.e. after installing the plates. Please note that expansion joints of 5 mm thickness must be provided between the boards. Be sure to fill these seams with construction sealant or polyurethane foam.
Next, you need to finish with clapboard, corrugated board, siding or any other facade coating. Install doors and windows immediately. From the inside, the crate is attached to the frame in the same way as outside, after which the walls are sheathed with clapboard or even drywall.
As needed, you can complete the frame structure, expanding its area, or even build another change house nearby and connect it to the first one. In this case, you will get a whole house of cabins, which can be used for any of your needs.
Making a Russian folk cabins
If you want to make not a temporary structure, but a change house "for centuries", then it is better to build it from a log or a bar in the form of a log house. For this we need the following materials:
- timber 150x100;
- wooden pins;
- mezhventsovy insulation.
Place the first crown of the house on the grillage. Be sure to align the timber with the grillage, and also make sure the corners are 90 degrees. Connect the timber to each other "in half a tree" as described above. Immediately lay the first crown of the partitions, and in the same way cut it into the first crown of the outer walls. Then, on the first crown, fix the inter-crown insulation with a stapler.
Lay the second crown in the same way. To connect both crowns to the grillage, drill vertical holes along the diameter of the pins. To do this, use an electric drill and a special long drill. The holes should reach the middle of the lower beam and be located in the walls with a step of one and a half to two meters. Carefully hammer the pins into the holes with a hammer.
Then two more crowns are laid and in the same way are connected with dowels to the lower pair of crowns. The only thing is that the pins are installed offset, i.e. staggered as shown in the diagram above. According to this principle, the walls, together with the interior partitions, "rise" to the design height.
The result is a box without windows and doors. Therefore, you need to mark the door and window openings on the walls, and then cut them out with a chainsaw. First, to the left and right of the opening, temporarily fasten all the beams with boards. After making the openings, immediately install the window frames made of boards. They will fasten the trimmed bars of the crowns together, preventing them from crumbling.
I must say that it is possible to make openings in the process of erecting walls. In this case, the beams are fastened to the left and right of the openings with dowels. You can use any option you like.
As for the floor and floors, all work is carried out in the same way as during the construction of a frame change house, so we will not repeat ourselves.
If you decide to finish the change house, keep in mind that you can start this operation no earlier than one and a half to two years after the completion of construction, i.e. after the structure shrinks. The only exceptions are cabins made of profiled laminated veneer lumber, which practically do not shrink.
Installation of a roof, or how many slopes do you need for complete happiness?
The type of roof structure depends on the purpose of the change house. If it will be used in the summer, it is better - it is easier to perform and cheaper. For its construction, you will need the following materials:
- timber 50x150 mm;
- super diffuse waterproof membrane;
- slats 20x30 mm;
- boards 100x20;
- roofing material.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a shed roof looks like this:
- 1. The rafters are placed on long walls of varying heights. They must be placed vertically, i.e. on the edge. To fix the rafters in the Mauerlat (upper crown of walls or strapping), grooves can be made. Additionally, use corners and screws. Since a pitched roof will carry a large snow load, do not make the distance between the rafters more than 40-50 mm.
- 2. On top of the rafters, fix the moisture-proof membrane, and then fix the counter-lattice - rails of 20-30 mm. The counter lattice should be parallel to the rafters.
- 3. Further, the boards are mounted on the counter-lattice perpendicular to the rafters. The pitch of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material, but in any case, the distance between the boards should not exceed 15-20 cm.
- 4. Now we lay the roof covering. Since the roof will be flat, overlap the sheets more, for example, when installing slate or tiles, it should be not one wave, but two.
If you plan to use a change house not only in the warm season, but also in winter, do it better. It is based on roof trusses, i.e. isosceles triangles formed by rafter legs. Above, i.e. at the apex of the triangles, a ridge girder is mounted - this is a beam that connects all the trusses to each other. In addition, reinforce each truss with puffs - horizontal jumpers connecting two rafter legs between themselves.
Waterproofing and installation of roofing material is carried out according to the instructions for a pitched roof. The only thing, if the change house is winter, it is advisable to insulate not only the ceiling ceilings, but also the roof itself. This operation is carried out according to the same principle as.
So we built a change house with our own hands, now all that remains is to conduct communications to it. As you can see, there is nothing super complicated in this work. And it is not for nothing that a popular proverb says: it is not holy pots that are molded.
A change house is a small auxiliary building made of wood, metal or any other building material and equipped with everything necessary for temporary residence in it. In addition, in buildings of this type, as a rule, a special compartment, like a pantry, is provided, used to store working tools and equipment. Before making a change house with your own hands , you should be clear about the purpose for which you need it. In the article, we will consider options for change houses (trailers) that you can make yourself, give detailed step-by-step instructions, and also demonstrate drawings, photographs and videos.
Purpose of the building
In this case, two options are possible, which determine the choice of the structure of the structure itself, as well as the material used in the construction.
Firstly, the cabins can serve as a place of long-term habitation for workers hired to build the main house on the site allocated to you. In this case, it should provide a full set of amenities necessary for rest and eating, as well as for protection from bad weather and heating in the winter season. In addition, it is often necessary to store building materials and equipment in such a house, for which a special place should be allocated.
Secondly, the change house can be used simply as a storage place for working tools and equipment at your summer cottage. In this situation, the presence of any amenities in it is most often not provided.
Naturally, for each of these options, a separate project should be prepared, taking into account such factors as:
- the material used in the construction (the frame of the change house can be made of both wood and metal);
- the type of foundation, the choice of which is determined by the type of material used, as well as its purpose;
- the size of the building, the conditions for its placement and other nuances.
If we proceed from the conditions for the use of the change house that we have already considered, then if it is used as a place of temporary residence for workers, it can be installed anywhere on your land plot. But at the same time, you need to make sure that the place you have chosen is at a certain distance from the building site, storage areas, as well as routes for transporting building materials and laying lines for future communications.
In the event that your trailer will be used as a storage room for inventory at a summer cottage, taking into account all of the above factors is not at all necessary.
Before you build a change house in a particular place of the garden plot, you should decide on its size, the choice of which is also determined by its purpose. So, if several workers have to rest in the shed and materials that need to be dried are stored, you will need a building with a size of at least 2.5 by 6 meters. If the trailer will be used as a storage for work clothes and tools, as well as a place of shelter from bad weather, a size of 2 by 4 meters is quite enough. Such dimensions should also suit those summer residents who intend to use the change house as a temporary summer kitchen.
When choosing the size and location of the trailer, you should also consider the possibility of transferring it to another location or potential sale, which is associated with the need to organize transportation. It should be borne in mind that it is allowed to transport goods of certain dimensions on the roads of Russia without special permission (width - no more than 2.55 meters, height - no more than 4 meters from the level of the roadbed).
It is also necessary to worry about simplifying the work associated with the loading and unloading of the change house in the event of its transportation to another place.
Taking into account all of the above restrictions, the dimensions of your future building should be as follows:
- width - about 2.4 meters;
- height - no more than 2.5 meters;
- length - no more than six meters.
At the same time, the weight of the change house should not exceed five tons, which will allow you to use a conventional manipulator for its transportation.
Selecting the type of foundation
In any of the options we have considered, there is no need to prepare a powerful foundation for the cabins using or, for example. In such a situation, the main task of the foundation being equipped is to protect the future structure from moisture spreading from the side of the ground.
A fairly effective and economically viable option for this case is the use of special asbestos-cement glasses, cinder blocks or sleepers that have served their life as a basis.
Laying the foundation using any of these building products is as follows:
- First, earthworks are carried out, starting with cleaning the site selected for building from debris and grass.
- Then, at its corners, as well as in the places of the planned placement of supports (for a change house, 6–8 of them are enough), the top layer of soil is removed.
- After that, a pillow is made on the bare soil from a mixture of crushed stone, screening and sand, which is slightly moistened with water, and then carefully compacted using a special rammer.
- When using asbestos-cement glasses as foundation racks, it is allowed to lay paving slabs under them, which makes it possible to slightly increase the area of the support base.
- Cinder blocks or sleepers are placed on a pillow with a mandatory check of their laying for horizontal position; any suitable level can be used for this.
- To reliably protect the wooden frame of the building from soil moisture, pieces of roofing material are laid on the supports (preferably in several layers).
Such a foundation is quite simple to manufacture and can be prepared independently within just a few hours. Well, if it becomes necessary to move the change house to a new place, its dismantling from such a foundation will be extremely simplified.
Erection of walls and their decoration
Upon completion of the arrangement of the foundation, it will be possible to proceed directly to the construction of the change house itself, which we will consider using the example of making a frame of a trailer made of wood.
These works begin with laying on the supports and fixing the timber of the lower strapping on them, which can be used as a board with a section of 100 × 150 mm. This beam is securely attached to the foundation supports using special anchors, and then corner and intermediate posts are mounted on it.
After installing all the racks provided for by the project, it will be possible to proceed to the installation of the beams of the upper trim. When carrying out all these operations of the same type, it is necessary to adhere to the following recommendations:
- it is most convenient to use boards with a cross section of 50 × 150 mm as racks, for which simple (or screw) nails or self-tapping screws are used;
- it is advisable to perform the nodal ligaments by cutting the racks into the harness, followed by strengthening this place with metal corners;
- for temporary fastening of the racks after setting them up in level, you can use long boards (jibs);
- the floor joists cut directly into the lower strapping beam. If you want to insulate the floor, you will have to prepare its filing along the lower cut of the lag, on which slabs or mats of insulation material will subsequently be laid;
- when choosing the distance between the racks, one should proceed from the fact that insulation plates can easily fit between them;
- it is advisable to immediately determine where the door and windows of the change house will be located.
After the frame of the trailer is ready, you can proceed to sheathing its outer surface with a facing material suitable for your conditions (OSB sheets, for example).
The resulting internal cavities of the frame are filled with pre-prepared insulation plates, which are then covered with a layer of vapor barrier film and sheathed with clapboard. If you wish, you can additionally protect the outer walls of the trailer from bad weather by revealing them with a corrugated board, for example.
Arrangement of the roof, windows and doors
After the base of your house is prepared, you can proceed to the installation of such elements of the floor structure as logs and rafters (for this purpose, the same board with a section of 50 × 150 mm will do). Upon completion of their installation, along the lower cut of the lag, the ceiling is hemmed from an inch board, plywood sheets or OSB.
After that, on top of the filing, a layer of vapor barrier film is attached, on which plates or mats of mineral wool insulation are then laid, for example. Note that in cabins, as a rule, a pitched roof is used. In the manufacture of the covering, the sheathing boards are attached across the rafters, after which sheets of the roofing material you have chosen are laid on them (for this purpose, it is most convenient to use slate or galvanized profiled sheet).
As for the arrangement of windows in the trailer, standard wooden frames can be used for their manufacture.
If your trailer will be used in the winter season, it is better to install plastic windows in it (preferably with a double-glazed window). The entrance door for such a building can be metal or wooden, and to create additional protection from cold air in the house, it will be possible to equip a small vestibule.
Estimated cost estimate
In the event that you intend to make a change house entirely from new purchased materials, the approximate amount of expenses can be about 20-25 thousand rubles, which is approximately half the price of buying a ready-made trailer. In most regions of the country, for the indicated amount, you can purchase all the basic materials for construction.
If you want to save on building materials, you can always use the leftovers from the still usable old structures available at any summer cottage.
Video
Watch a video about the construction of a frame change house:
Photo
