- put seals (this option is suitable if the gaps are small);
- if it blows from under the door - fix a special sealing brush on it from below (buy a finished product or make it with your own hands from thick rubber or other materials at hand)
- hang a blackout curtain.
If you need a fast and efficient way, then the last option turns out to be the most successful. The main thing is that the curtain material is really dense (summer chintz curtains will not save us from the cold). Such an element of insulation can become a bright and original part of the decor of the room. Well, if you are not worried enough, then you can even use old woolen or cotton blankets.
Here, perhaps, someone wrinkles their nose contemptuously: "Fi, old-fashioned!" - Well, sometimes just such old-fashioned things work better than modern "bells and whistles". Let me give you an example from practice. In my new home, I have a large (approximately 1.5 x 2 m) wall opening that separates the warm living area from the cool hallway. Doors or some other fundamental structures in this opening are not yet included in my plans, but somehow I need to save heat ... I found an old plush curtain of just the right size. Many people kept repeating to me: “What's the use of it? All the heat will still go into the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and the curtain will not hold anything. " But since none of the advisors offered anything better, this curtain worked safely all last winter. The temperature difference in the rooms that she shared could reach 3-4 degrees. And in a rural country house, for the winter, the front door to the warm (residential) part was always hung with a cotton blanket - extremely simple, but effective.
Ceiling
I will say a few words about. Today it is considered almost mandatory. Meanwhile, take a look at the old village houses - do you find many insulated roofs there? And in a heated hut and in a bitter frost it is warm. Why?Roof insulation makes sense if the second floor (attic) is residential. If this is just an attic, then the focus is on insulation of the ceiling (floors)... Even those who are not familiar with physics are probably aware that warm air is lighter than cold air, and therefore rises up. And it leaks into the atmosphere through the cracks in the ceiling, if any. The ceiling, which does not allow heat to "escape" from the house, is one of the most important points of good insulation.
Perhaps the most economical and simplest option would be polystyrene foam. But, from my point of view, its advantages and dignity are exhausted on that. It is suitable if you need to insulate quickly and very inexpensively (however, I would not recommend saving on the quality of the material and choosing foam with a minimum density; optimally - PSB-S 25).
I will not go into details - you can safely devote a separate article to this topic. I will only say: if you want better insulation, buy polystyrene foam boards with milled edge- they overlap. Attempts to tightly fit the usual smooth edges of the slabs are doomed to failure: there will still be gaps between them, which, when the wooden supporting structures shrink, can also increase. Well, through these cracks, of course, precious heat leaves.
Is there any alternative? Within a limited budget - I'm afraid not (if there are specialist builders who will correct me, I will be extremely grateful: for me this question is of great practical value. The earth filling, which was used in old village houses, is now practically not used.
Sometimes you can find recommendations to close the ceiling from the inside. penofol(options: isokom, energoflex, and the like). It is really fast, simple and relatively inexpensive (depending on the brand of the material and its manufacturer). But (the subjective opinion of an amateur - do not judge strictly) I still think that this is not the best option for a living space ... Who tried it - let's discuss it in the comments, share your experience and impressions. I especially want to find out how much such insulation can affect the level of humidity in the room (does condensation form on such a ceiling?).
Floor
Cold floors are a problem for most wooden houses. Today there are many ways to radically solve this problem, but this time, as you remember, we are talking about the most simple and cheap options... Therefore, we will not consider the topic, for example. What then can be done?The first is to insulate living quarters around the perimeter: no matter how well the floor is fitted and the plinth is selected, there is a gap between the floor and the wall. If the basement is not insulated, cold air will penetrate from below through these gaps. And here just penofol will help us: we fix the strips of this material (with a foil layer inside the room) with a furniture stapler (or small nails, if there is no stapler) so that one edge goes onto the wall, and the other lies on the floor. Fast, simple - and it gets noticeably warmer in the room. Check it out!
Penofol is also used for continuous thermal insulation of the floor (here is how someone does it: someone fixes it from the basement side, someone uses it instead of a substrate for the floor covering, but I heard only positive reviews from both of them).
The second is the floor surface. Homespun rugs in village houses, in addition to their decorative function, have a purely practical function: they are additional insulation. So if there is carpets, rugs, runners and rugs- lay them on the floor, and you will be warm. Read more about this in the article.
Dacha is a favorite place for family leisure in the country in the summer. With the onset of cold weather, the house becomes less attractive for long visits. This is due to the peculiarities of the design of country estates, especially buildings from the period of the late 80s of the last century and up to the beginning of the 2000s. At that time, the warming of a country house was not among the priorities.
Video about warming a country house
The fight for heat: basic rules
With a general improvement in the quality of life and the arrival of new technologies, the situation has changed. The dacha easily turns into a house where you can create comfort at any time of the year. In addition, the use of special materials significantly reduces heat loss and contributes to significant energy savings.
The factor of increased consumption of fuel, gas or electricity often keeps you from spending time in the country after the start of the heating season. Few people want to warm up the street and shiver from the cold in their own home, which does not want to warm up in any way.
When planning insulation work, you should pay attention to several significant features that will save time and money:
- external insulation is more effective than internal insulation;
- indoor work can lead to a reduction in usable area;
- sealing windows, entrance doors, floors, cracks and cracks reduces heat loss;
- an integrated approach will provide a better result.
Thermal insulation of all structural elements of the building will just improve the performance. If, for example, we insulate a country house from the inside, but at the same time allow the cold to penetrate through the windows or the floor, the efforts will be in vain.
However, excessive entrainment in sealing can lead to poor ventilation and a decrease in oxygen volume. Therefore, the approach must be not only rational, but also competent.
One of the signs of poor insulation of country windows is frost on the inner surface of the glass.
It's important to know:
To insulate the windows, it is enough to "put" the glass on the sealant and press it tightly against the frame with glazing beads. Filling the cracks and painting the windows will enhance the effect.
External insulation is an effective solution
How to insulate a country house, everyone decides independently, based on the available resources. Internal work is traditionally cheaper, but the loss of space is inevitable. This is important for a small home where every square centimeter counts.
But the correct insulation of the country house from the outside is a guarantee of a successful solution to a difficult task. It should be noted that during such work, it is not enough to install a direct insulating material. We'll have to resort to finishing work using certain technologies.
Most often, the following materials are used for external insulation:
- expanded polystyrene;
- mineral wool.
Mineral wool is an excellent insulation material for wooden houses. After installation, it is advisable to sheathe the structure with clapboard.
The lathing is made in accordance with the width of the material. It is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the insulation
Work on the external thermal insulation of a house consists of several stages, which are important to observe:
- The device of a wooden or metal lathing, the thickness of which should be 2-5 cm more than the thickness of the material.
- Insulation laying.
- Formation of a waterproofing layer - roofing material or dense polyethylene are suitable.
- Creation of a ventilation system. A frame made of slats is attached to the lathing and performs two functions at once: it leaves an "air cushion" between the waterproofing and the external finish; serves as a basis for fastening facade elements.
- Finishing and decorative works using the selected material.
This is one outdoor insulation method that can be called a classic. It is allowed to apply heat-insulating material directly to the wall, from above it is covered with waterproofing, then - the crate. It also serves as a frame for the installation of siding or lining.
It's important to know:
A person begins to feel discomfort if the walls are more than 6 ° C colder than the indoor air. The optimum temperature difference is 3 ° C.
At the same time, there are more expensive insulation technologies: in particular, on a cross frame. In this case, the material is laid in two layers according to a special scheme.
The waterproofing layer is installed without damaging the material and with a high degree of reliability - otherwise moisture will penetrate
The choice of the method largely depends on the climatic features of the area. But in any case, freezing of the heat-shielding layer must not be allowed. Such an unfavorable phenomenon is possible when moisture penetrates into the material. Expanded polystyrene insulation and mineral wool have a porous structure and are susceptible to water. Waterproofing and ventilation play a very important role in the thermal insulation system. This must not be forgotten.
Working inside the home: a sustainable approach
Floor, windows, doors, ceiling and exposed walls are excellent conductors of cold air. Therefore, outdoor work alone is not enough. The house should be like a box, in which there is not a single crack. How to insulate a country house from the inside is a truly burning question that requires an integrated approach.
First of all, you need to take care of a warm field. The order of work is as follows:
- the device of the frame directly on the floor screed;
- filling the "cells" with insulation;
- laying the floor.
It's important to know:
For floor insulation, manufacturers offer a wide range of materials: expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, mineral wool, fiberglass, etc.
Sealing windows and doors will help withstand the effects of frost. For this, a thorough examination of frames, trays is carried out, and work is carried out to eliminate cracks and gaps as much as possible. Painting of surfaces performs not only a decorative function - there is an additional tightening of cracks.
Insulation of entrance doors with the help of foam is considered effective - creating a kind of "cake" stuffed with insulating material.
The insulation is laid directly on the floor screed. The technology provides for the creation of a frame for surface flooring
When designing the insulation of a country house, you should carefully consider the mandatory internal work, including the insulation of the walls. The technology is in many ways similar to the procedure for external insulation:
- stacking material;
- vapor barrier device;
- provision of ventilation;
- Finishing work.
At the same time, useful area is lost, however, the work is not as laborious and costly as with external insulation.
Insulation of the roof and attic - how to keep warm
A complete answer to the question of how to insulate a summer cottage will not be given until the roof ceases to be a heat leakage channel. As you know, when heated, air rises up. And you need to prevent it from volatilizing freely. Especially if the roof is with a residential attic, and during the construction of the dacha, the features of the insulation of the room, which are most vulnerable to the cold, were not taken into account.
Roof insulation is necessary in the presence of exploited attic spaces
If there are no attic spaces, in many cases it is sufficient to insulate the ceiling according to the same principle as insulating the walls from the inside. Thermal insulation of the roof, if necessary, is carried out in a similar way using traditional materials.
After completing the entire complex of work, we can confidently assert: the problem of how to insulate the dacha has been successfully solved.
It's important to know:
Performance of work on insulation of the ceiling or roof is associated with increased danger. It is imperative to protect your eyes with special glasses from dust and particles of material.
In conclusion, it should be noted that the massive availability of construction, decoration, insulation and other materials has created a deceptive illusion. For example, you can do the insulation of a summer cottage with your own hands. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the main technological stages and the sequence of work. But this is far from the case.
Even a small house is an engineering and architectural object. And when planning actions to improve performance, you cannot do without consulting an experienced technician. A wrong decision made on your own can turn into a mass of problems and significant financial losses. Professionals working in the market of construction and repair services for many years will provide the necessary consulting assistance, help in choosing the most suitable material.
Having timely taken care of the insulation and heating of the country house, you can relax and work in the country in comfortable conditions at any time of the year
Equally important is the issue of recommended technologies. Warming a summer cottage is a rather complex multi-stage process. Even with a great desire to do everything yourself, there is not always the time and opportunity to focus on labor-intensive construction work that requires a very careful approach. Therefore, the help of real masters of their craft will come in handy.
Greetings. This time you will learn how to properly insulate a country house. As an example, consider the popular methods of thermal insulation of wooden summer cottages and building objects made of concrete blocks. The types of buildings for the review were selected for a reason, since it is from these materials that most summer cottages were built.
I am sure that the methods proposed in the article will be of interest to the owners of old country houses. However, if your summer cottage is new, but not warm enough, you will also find a lot of useful information for yourself.
Basic information about the insulation of country houses
Correct thermal insulation of a country house begins with an analysis of heat loss using special equipment - a thermal imager
Warming a country house has the following goals:
- Ensuring the comfort of living;
- Reduced heating costs;
- Ensuring a long service life of the facility without the need for regular refurbishment.
From the listed points, the following conclusion can be drawn - the dacha should be energy efficient.
What is an energy efficient home? This is a construction site in which, thanks to high-quality thermal insulation, an optimal microclimate is combined with low energy consumption.
In accordance with SanPiN 2.1.2.100200, the following requirements are imposed on the microclimate of residential premises in the cold season:
- the average air temperature should be between 18 ° C and 24 ° C;
- relative air humidity - within 35-40%;
- air flow speed no more than 0.15 m / s.
- the wall surface temperature is lower than the indoor air temperature by no more than 4 ° С;
- the temperature of the floor surface is lower than the air temperature in the room by no more than 2 ° С.
Do you think the microclimate within the walls of your summer house meets the listed requirements? If not, then it's time to insulate the country house.
The instruction for work on the insulation of a summer residence depends on the following factors:
- The nature of the operation of the facility (seasonal or all-season);
- Materials used in construction;
- Glazing type of the object;
- The presence of technological errors in the design and / or construction;
- The type and efficiency of the heating system used;
- The budget of funds allocated for the implementation of the project.
Thermal insulation of a building object can affect individual structural elements, for example, floor walls or foundations, or it can be performed in a complex manner. Despite the fact that the price of integrated insulation is significantly higher than the cost of separately performed work, it is the integrated approach that provides the best result.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house
Wooden dachas are insulated in such a way that the lumber retains the optimum degree of moisture, does not rot and does not collapse. Conditionally, the thermal insulation of a wooden cottage can be external and internal. Which of these varieties is preferred?
External (external) wall insulation prevents them from freezing. In addition, the dew point shifts towards the outer edge of the wall. In order to reduce the formation of condensation, a ventilated façade is installed. As a result, the wood remains dry and does not rot, which has a beneficial effect on the resource of the house.
The thermal insulation of the load-bearing walls from the inside of the house reduces the usable area of the room, which is especially noticeable if the dacha is small. In addition, by insulating the inner surface of the walls, you will provoke freezing of wood in winter and getting wet with the onset of the warm season. As a result, the wood will rot and decay intensively.
The conclusion can be made as follows - we do the internal thermal insulation of a wooden building only in combination with external insulation. As a last resort, we restrict ourselves only to external insulation.
Thermal insulation of wooden walls
One of the most correct instructions for insulating walls made of wood involves the device of a ventilated facade with a laying of heat-insulating material. The advantage of this solution is the absence of condensation and the ability to use thick insulation materials.
To complete the installation work, the following materials will be required:
- Guide metal profiles 100 × 40 mm;
- Vapor barrier film;
- Plates of dense mineral wool (thickness similar to the width of the metal profile or will have to be laid in two layers);
- Double-sided tape;
- Windproof cover;
- Wooden blocks 50 × 20 mm;
- Vinyl siding.
Instructions for the device of a ventilated facade with a heater insert are as follows:
- Using a plumb line and a spirit level, the curvature of the walls was determined;
In our case, the attic protrudes slightly forward relative to the first floor.
- At intervals of 60 cm from each other, leveling pads made of pieces of plywood were fixed on the surface of the walls in order to compensate for level differences;
- On the surface of the wall, the vapor barrier strips were fixed with a stapler;
The vapor barrier has 2 sides - one smooth, the other rough. We direct the smooth side outward, and the rough side inward. We fasten the vapor barrier horizontally, so that the upper strip overlaps the lower one and, thus, the condensate drain is ensured.
- On top of the vapor barrier, guide profiles were vertically fixed;
The installation of the profiles is carried out on leveling plywood linings, which are easy to feel under the vapor barrier. As a result, the guides should be spaced 60 cm apart.
- Slabs of mineral wool are inserted into the gaps between the guides;
- On the outside of the guides, we glue pieces of double-sided tape;
- We line a windproof covering, temporarily fixing it on double-sided tape;
- On top of the windproof covering, we fill a crate of wooden slats;
We fasten the lathing so that the slats are fixed on the metal guides that were used in the manufacture of the supporting frame.
- Vinyl siding was fixed on top of the wooden lathing.
Are there other ways to insulate wood walls?
Due to the ease of implementation, polyurethane foam spraying is becoming more and more popular. The two-component mixture is sprayed onto the wall under pressure, after which it polymerizes and forms a layer of foam. Despite the obvious advantages, the method has a significant drawback - the equipment for spraying is expensive, and therefore it will not be possible to perform such insulation with your own hands.
Foamed polyurethane is an airtight compound that prevents the wood from breathing. Therefore, there is a possibility that the walls on the outside will rot and collapse.
Thermal insulation of floors and ceilings in a wooden house
Floor insulation in a wooden house can be performed using various materials. For example, I recommend laying expanded clay backfill, mineral wool or crushed polystyrene between the lags.
But the method of floor insulation you have chosen must meet the following requirements:
- Floor structural elements, including joists and boardwalks, must not rot;
- Filling the space between the lags should be unattractive to rodents;
- The thermal insulation layer must be fireproof and non-toxic.
As an example, I propose an instruction on the correct device for a thermally insulated floor cake.
The easiest way is to insulate the floor on the logs during the construction of the summer cottage. If the insulation is carried out in an already operated house, the flooring will have to be completely removed.
After access to the logs is open, you need to cover the wooden parts with an antiseptic and fire protection in several layers, with a break for drying each previous layer.
After the impregnation has completely dried, the space between the logs is lined with a windproof coating. Such a measure will eliminate the likelihood of the formation of cold bridges. The windscreen must be attached to the joists with staples from a construction stapler.
Insulating material is laid or poured into the prepared space between the lags.
Traditionally, mineral wool is used as insulation. But such material, over time, can become a refuge for rodents. Therefore, I recommend using a dense expanded clay backfill with a core diameter of 3-5 mm. Such a backfill is produced by Knauf for the device of dry screeds.
After the insulating material between the logs is laid out, the top layer of the vapor barrier is lined. The vapor barrier strips, as well as the windscreen, must be lined with an overlap so that there are no gaps. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the finished cake.
Floor insulation is performed in the same way as floor insulation. But for these purposes, materials with low weight are used, mainly mineral wool or expanded polystyrene plates.
When arranging ceilings, a vapor barrier is placed in the bottom of the cake in order to prevent the penetration of moist warm air from the room.
A windscreen is lined over the top of the insulating cake to act as a barrier to cold air from the attic.
Thermal insulation of a country house from aerated concrete or silicate blocks
Unlike wooden summer cottages, brick or lightweight concrete objects can be insulated both outside and inside. And in this case, external insulation is an order of magnitude more effective than internal insulation.
But the best results are guaranteed by comprehensive insulation, during which the thermal conductivity of walls, blind areas, floors, floors and roofing systems is reduced.
Thermal insulation of walls
For thermal insulation of walls made of bricks, concrete blocks and similar building materials, cellular polystyrene plates can be used; mineral wool, polyurethane foam application.
Affordable price is a good reason to buy expanded polystyrene boards
Of the materials listed, I especially recommend polystyrene foam boards. Using this type of insulating materials, it is possible not only to reduce the thermal conductivity of the bearing walls, but also subsequently to plaster the building, giving the facade an attractive appearance.
Installation of expanded polystyrene plates with subsequent plastering is carried out in accordance with the following diagram.
The following materials are required for the thermal insulation device:
- Cellular polystyrene plates with a thickness of 150-200 mm (the thickness is selected depending on the climatic conditions of the region);
- Disc dowels (umbrellas) in the amount of 4-5 pieces for each plate;
- The initial plank is a profile for holding the plates of the first row in the required position;
- Alkali-resistant reinforcing glass mesh;
- Tile glue or special glue for expanded polystyrene;
- Plaster mix or tile adhesive for making a reinforcing layer;
- Finishing plaster mix.
The instructions for insulating the walls of a modern summer cottage made of aerated concrete blocks or sand-lime bricks are as follows:
- Scaffolds are collected, from which it is easier and safer to work than from a stepladder;
- With a chisel, the influx of masonry mortar is knocked off the surface of the walls;
- The surface is primed in one layer with a penetrating primer to strengthen the porous base, and in one layer with a film-forming primer for better adhesion;
The primer can be applied with a roller or even a brush. But, given the large surface area and application in two layers, I recommend using a spray gun for working with a primer.
- Along the level, along the edges of the wall, guide cords are fixed, along which the insulation board will be laid;
- Using a laser level or a spirit level with a plumb line, the location of the upper part of the slabs in the first row is determined and the corresponding mark is set along the perimeter of the walls;
- We mix the glue solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and, after preparation, let it stand for 5 minutes;
- We apply glue to the plate;
- Install the first slab from the corner, so that its edge protrudes beyond the corner by a distance equal to the thickness of the slab;
- The second slab is placed from the corner close to the building edge of the first slab, as shown in the figure;
- In a similar way, the entire first row is laid out along the perimeter of the walls;
- When laying each row, check the horizontal and vertical position of the slabs with a level;
- We also begin to lay the second row from the corner. The slabs should lie in relation to each other with an offset, as shown in the figure;
- We lay the third row with an offset relative to the second row, but so that it coincides with the plates in the first row;
- The next rows are installed in the same way, so that as a result, a toothed ligament forms at the corner;
- We combine the slabs with window openings, cutting the foam, as shown in the figure;
- If during installation there are gaps between some plates, we immediately fill them with polyurethane foam to prevent the appearance of cold bridges;
- After the foam dries, remove the excess with a sharp knife;
- At the edges and in the center of the slab, disc dowels are installed so that their caps are recessed into the surface of the foam;
- Reinforcing fiberglass mesh and plaster mixture are used to strengthen the slopes;
- The recesses for the dowels are filled with a mixture;
- The wall cladding is reinforced with fiberglass mesh and plaster mixture;
- Decorative plaster can be applied over the dried base coat.
Floor insulation
In the previous instructions, I talked about how the floor is insulated on wooden logs. This technique can also be used in brick houses where the floors are laid on logs. But what if there is already a ready-made concrete screed in the house?
I suggest the following options:
- Installation of mikrolag with the subsequent laying of thermal insulation and plywood flooring;
- Device of dry screed made of gypsum fiber board with expanded clay backfill;
- Laying an additional layer of expanded clay concrete;
- Laying an additional layer of polystyrene concrete;
- Installation of underfloor heating systems for subsequent use as an auxiliary heating system.
If the level of the subfloor allows you to raise the surface by 5-10 cm, I recommend laying a layer of expanded clay concrete along the lighthouses. The advantage of this solution is the low thermal conductivity and high strength of the material. Again, laying expanded clay concrete is much easier and faster than working with ordinary concrete, if only because the ready-made mortar is much lighter.
For summer cottages, the problem of rodents is relevant, which gnaw through the holes in the layer of insulation and feel comfortable in the underground. Expanded clay concrete, after gaining brand strength, is practically not inferior in hardness to heavy concrete, and rodents will not settle in such a subfield.
Another option, which I personally tested in my home, is the device of the "Warm floor" system based on infrared film emitters. This option is preferable for summer cottages that are used seasonally. If you decide to live in a country house, in winter you can quickly heat the floor, which means comfortable conditions for temporary residence will be provided.
The infrared film floor is a versatile solution that can be installed under tiles, under carpet or under laminate flooring. The only important condition for the smooth operation of the film heater is a perfectly flat base without a pronounced microrelief.
Why do not I recommend underfloor heating based on hot water equipment and? Most dachas and country houses in the province do not have a stable water connection. Again, the wiring in an old house may not be able to withstand the load of a hot water heater.
Conclusion
Now you know how the external insulation of low-rise buildings is performed. I am sure that the proposed instructions and recommendations will come in handy when arranging your summer cottage.
If you have any questions, ask them in the comments to what you read - I will definitely answer everything. By the way, maybe you can find answers to your questions by watching the video in this article.
To save money when insulating a summer cottage garden house, you can:
- make the thermal insulation of the country house on your own without involving workers, which will reduce the budget for this event by at least half;
- use cheap insulation and simple methods of their installation, or use what lies under your feet as thermal insulation.
Country houses can have a different design - it is either a clapboard-covered wooden frame, or a brick house on a massive foundation, or…. Therefore, the main paths of heat leakage can be different.
Consider how to prevent heat loss, how to make a country house warmer, not expensive, without serious mistakes that would entail negative consequences and cost overruns.
Windows, doors
Draft, if present, will carry the most heat. Therefore, old windows and doors are the main sources of cold in an ordinary country house.
The best solution to the issue of windows and doors is to replace them with new modern systems, preferably multi-chamber. But if such a solution is not suitable for the cost, then everything possible must be done first of all with windows and doors to keep warm.
There should be two glasses in the frame, you need to try to turn the frame into a kind of double-glazed window. It is necessary to remove the glass, put it on a sealant, press it tightly with glazing beads - to make their joint with the frame completely sealed, - for the outer and for the inner glass.
After that, using the same sealant, or a cheaper window putty, in conjunction with cloth, gauze, fill up all the cracks in the frames, opening sashes. Moreover, the termination must be performed both from the inside of the room and from the outside. 
Bringing windows to any acceptable state will immediately reduce heat loss by more than a dozen percent.
Doors should only be closed with a seal. Slot seals are sold (inserted into a special slot in the tray) or self-adhesive, which are easier to apply.
The simplest wooden or metal door, as a rule, has insufficient thermal resistance. It is not difficult to raise it by gluing 5 cm of dense foam or extruded polystyrene foam to the canvas. Then the insulation can be simply pasted over with some panels, dermontin to give aesthetics.
Ceiling insulation in the country - how to make
The next most important ceiling. Warm air rises up, without insulation of the ceiling space will warm up. It will not be possible to heat it cheaply.
Therefore, it is necessary to lay a sufficient layer of insulation on the ceiling slab. Which? At least 20 cm of mineral wool is recommended.
If this does not seem to be a cheap measure, then you can of course replace it with leaves, sawdust, hay, straw, in general "fluffy" organic matter, but preferably mixed with lime so that animals and bacteria do not start there. It should be laid in a layer of 30 cm or more evenly over the ceiling. Press down on top with plywood, boards, for movement. 
It is possible to simplify such an event by laying 15 cm of foam, in 2 - 3 layers with an offset of the seams in the layers. Styrofoam is dangerous in case of fire and is not allowed for indoor use (wooden ceiling is not fire resistant)
Under the insulation in the attic of a country house, you need to put a vapor barrier - a polyethylene film in a continuous layer, otherwise the accumulation of condensed moisture is possible in the structure.
Creating non-cold floors
The floors in a country house are usually wooden, single-layer, and very significantly cool the entire structure, letting heat into the ground. To make the building warmer, it is imperative to insulate the floors.
The easiest way to do this is to tear off the wooden flooring and fill in a layer of insulation underground. If the floors are high, then the insulation will have to be fixed between the logs. Then the wooden flooring can be returned to its place. 
So, after removing the board or panel flooring, a vapor barrier is laid out on the ground - layers of roofing material or polypropylene film (more durable) are wrapped on the walls above the floor covering.
After creating a reliable vapor barrier, the same organic lime mass is poured over the ground as in the attic, with a layer of 25 - 30 cm, or more. A gap of 3 - 5 cm is left before the finish coating.
Or expanded clay, or coal slag, sifted out from the lumber and coal, with a fraction of at least 3 mm, with a layer of 35 cm or more.
If not, then a flooring is arranged between the lags, it is closed with a vapor barrier, mineral wool is placed on it with a layer of 15 cm, covered from above with a vapor-permeable membrane.
The foam is eaten by rodents, so it can be used under the floor if you shield it with a metal mesh.
Insulation of the walls of a country house
The most expensive question is to insulate the walls of a country house. In terms of importance for insulation, walls are in last place.
You will have to purchase insulation for the walls, you will need a lot of it. Either cheap foam plastic with a layer of 10 cm is used, if the walls are concrete, brick, cinder block, or 12 cm of mineral wool, if the walls are wooden, foam concrete, porous ceramic. 
Naturally, we can only talk about a normal insulation scheme - outside. It is possible to insulate from the inside only under duress ... under the pressure of circumstances ... so this insulation is not profitable, and even harmful.
In fact, in the case of foam, it is necessary to make a wet facade technology. You can read more about how to insulate the walls of a country house using the wet facade technology on this resource. It is also worth noting here that foam insulation can be done by hand.
The same applies to wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool. The description is voluminous, we will not repeat it. Look for a detailed description on the next page. It is necessary to make a frame from profiles, wooden beams, which is again sewn up from the outside with panels, siding ... 
But if we consider completely cheap insulation, then you can try to build with your own hands around the country house actually a false wall made of boards, plywood or some not expensive panels for outdoor use.
For this, a frame is installed on suspensions with an empty space of 15 centimeters thick, which is covered with deciduous-insulating material with lime. Horizontal bars are stuffed with a step of 40 cm so that the insulation does not fall down.
In this technology, it is only important to prevent the ingress of water from the outside into the insulation, i.e. there should be no cracks in the outer casing. But due to the heterogeneity of the insulation layer, the fragility of the materials, there is no need to talk about high-quality insulation.
As you can see, a country house, a garden house can really be insulated at all not expensive. The main problem in this case is the labor intensity of the work. But if you take your time, carry out the warming of the country house gradually, then problems should not arise.
Many summer residents want to insulate their house from the outside so that they can live in it during the cold season. It is important to insulate the walls, because up to 30% of the heat is lost through them! A variety of insulation materials are presented on construction sites. You need to understand their types.
Styrofoam
Polyfoam, aka expanded polystyrene. It is made in different ways, therefore the properties of the material are different. For wall insulation, it is best to take extrusion polystyrene, strong and durable. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.026 W / m ° C). Thermal conductivity does not change even at high humidity, low water absorption and vapor permeability. Density - from 20 to 48 kg / m3.
In the photo, polystyrene for insulating a summer cottage outside:
The advantages include high mechanical compressive strength, which depends on the thickness and density of the material.
Fungus, mold does not form on it. Easy to install: easy to cut, slabs are attached to external walls with dowels. A metal or polymer mesh is mounted on top, on which a decorative layer is then applied.
Polyfoam is durable, does not deform and does not lose its qualities. The material is lightweight, therefore, no foundation reinforcement is required, and it is easy to work with it. Affordable price is an important argument for those who decided to insulate the summer cottage.
For thermal insulation of walls, you should choose extruded polystyrene foam made with the addition of fire retardants - this is a slow-burning material.
Disadvantages of expanded polystyrene:
- Flammability... Highly flammable, burns, heating up to +75 degrees, while burning, caustic toxic smoke is emitted. You can protect your home by choosing foam impregnated with an antiprene composition.
- Low vapor barrier... Moisture can accumulate inside the room. Therefore, it is necessary to install additional ventilation, and this is an additional cost.
- Not UV resistant- radiation, requires coverage.
- Rodents can start in it, although the manufacturers claim the opposite.
- Mice make their holes in it and getting rid of such "neighbors" is problematic. It is possible to avoid them only with proper installation of the foam.
- Degrades on contact with solvents(sometimes the insulation is accompanied by waterproofing, for which bitumen mastic with a high solvent content is used).
- Material retains water and steam, if the house is wooden, then mold may appear in it, the musty smell of the tree may rot. The house does not "breathe", the concept of an eco-friendly home is being violated.
On the video - insulation for the walls outside the house in the country:
Specifications differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most popular brands on the Russian market: Rockwool, Isover, Ursa, Penoplex, Technoplex, Knauf.
The materials are similar, but there are differences. For example, graphite is added to Technoplex, it gives strength. Due to this additive, the material becomes gray in color. In terms of cost, Penoplex is also cheaper than, for example, Knauf. To insulate the facade of the summer cottage, slabs with dimensions of 0.5 x 1, 1 x 1 m are suitable. They are easy to cut, complex details on the facade will not be difficult to insulate.
It is necessary to insulate the walls of the house from the outside with foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m3. Plates with a density of 15 kg / m 3 are not suitable for such work, the material is not strong and reliable enough, and also short-lived.
Polyfoam with a density of 15 kg / m 3 is suitable for insulating those parts of the building where serious insulation is not required. For example, verandas, balconies.
Plates denser (35 kg / m 3) usually insulate the roof, the walls are not economically viable. Therefore, the most demanded material is with a density of 25 kg / m 3.
Important! Polyurethane foam is not suitable for insulation (this is a well-known foam rubber, which is short-lived, flammable, the smoke from it is toxic) and polyvinyl chloride foam (very similar to extrusion, but toxic when burning).
What it looks like and what is the name of the linoleum insulation on the concrete floor, the information from the article will help to understand:
Mineral wool
There are many types of mineral wool. But not all of them are suitable for thermal insulation of summer cottages. According to GOST 52953-2008, fiberglass, slag wool and stone wool are considered heat insulators. Therefore, it is insignificant.
Glass wool. It is made by melting quartz sand or broken glass and blown into thin fibers. Light yellow material. It has been used for insulation since Soviet times, the material is popular, cheap and very prickly! It is perfectly usable if you haven't chosen yet.
In the photo, glass wool for insulating a summer cottage from the outside:
The structure of glass wool consists of fibers 5-15 microns thick and 15-50 mm long. Thanks to them, it is strong and resilient. But what is the difference between basalt wool and mineral wool will help to understand the video from this
Attention! Glass fibers can cause injury if broken. You need to work in a disposable protective suit, gloves, glasses and a respirator.
Slagged. It is produced from blast-furnace slag (waste of blast-furnace metallurgy). Its fibers are 16 mm long and 4-12 mm thick. Thin and prickly than glass wool. They are sintered at a temperature of 300 degrees Celsius and the heat-insulating properties of the material disappear. The slag is toxic. And in this article, you can emphasize for yourself
In the photo there is slag for insulating a summer cottage outside:
Stone wool. Made from stone. Rocks are melted (therefore it is also called basalt) at a temperature of 1400-1500 degrees. Fibers up to 7 microns thick and up to 5 cm long. They are found in a variety of shades from light brown to green.
The properties of glass wool and stone are very similar. There are still differences: glass wool is more elastic and lightweight. But stone is more fire-resistant. It is easier to work with stone wool, and its characteristics are higher: excellent thermal insulation properties, noise absorption, vapor permeability (steam does not absorb, passes between the fibers), high fire resistance, non-toxic when heated. But what is and where the stone wool TechnoNicol Rocklight is used, the information will help to understand
In the photo, stone wool for insulating a summer cottage outside:
For wall insulation, material in slabs or rolls is suitable.
Flaws:
- High cost. As a heater for a country house, many may seem like an expensive material.
- You need to work in a respirator, because in the process small pieces break off anyway, basalt dust is formed.
Liquid insulation materials
Liquid insulation materials can be divided into types:
Ceramic compounds
The appearance resembles thick acrylic paint. The basis is really a water-acrylic mixture, to which silicone, rubber, etc. are added. Ceramic granules in the composition help to reduce heat loss. Some mixtures can be applied only at positive air temperatures, but there are those with which you can work even in frost. Liquid insulation is a homogeneous suspension, it can be applied with a brush and spray gun. In many respects, mineral wool and (expanded polystyrene) are better. But what is the price of liquid-ceramic thermal insulation of walls from the inside, you can see in this
In the photo, liquid thermal insulation ceramics:
Popular mixes:
- "Astratek" (produced by the Russian company "Astratek"). For warming the facade of the summer cottage, "Astratek - Facade" or "Astratek - Universal" are suitable.
- "Arktem" manufacturer - LLC "Arktem" (Russia). For wall insulation outside, "Arktem-Facade" and "Arktem-Standard" are suitable.
- "Corundum",
- "Armor".
Advantages of liquid ceramic insulation:
- a layer of 1 mm of liquid insulation in its properties corresponds to a layer of 50 mm of mineral wool;
- the liquid coating is seamless, unlike other materials;
- if you insulate summer cottages with such a coating, then you don't have to worry that it will be dismantled or damaged during the absence of the owners;
- ease of application (the process is similar to the usual painting of walls) allows you to do it on your own, no special equipment and qualified specialists are needed;
- resistance to fungi and mold;
The coating is durable, resistant to rodents, moisture, pollution, mechanical damage.
Polyurethane foam
Polymer gas-filled material. The structure is cellular plastic. 90% filled with inert gas. Two technologies are used for wall insulation: pouring and spraying. When spraying, a spray gun is used.
In the photo, polyurethane foam for the outer wall:
When pouring, the voids are filled with a homogeneous liquid.
Attention! It is possible to insulate a house with such materials in just one day. But special equipment and skills are required. You can't do it on your own. We need to invite masters.
The advantages of polyurethane foam:
- Thermal conductivity is lower than that of other heat insulators. For example, a 1 cm thick polyurethane foam covering corresponds to a 30 cm thick brickwork or a 5 cm thick layer of mineral wool.
- Excellent sound and waterproofing properties.
- Possesses high adhesion, therefore it is suitable for all surfaces.
- Flame retardant. Will light up only at 500 degrees Celsius.
- Practically does not absorb moisture.
- It is easy to spray on surfaces of different shapes.
- Applies quickly.
- Long-lasting, properties last up to 60 years.
- Lightweight material. Suitable for insulating old houses with low load-bearing capacity.
Flaws:
- High cost... The price can be justified by durability, good heat and sound insulation properties.
- Not resistant to UV rays: decomposes into monomers that are harmful to humans. Therefore, an additional coating is required with decorative plaster or water-based paint.
- Environmental friendliness not always supported by certificates. Therefore, in construction it is used for outdoor work in small areas.
- When ignited, it smokes heavily, the smoke is toxic.
- Installation is complicated by nuances: if sheet materials are fastened over the insulation with self-tapping screws or dowels, the solidity is broken. If you give preference to plaster, then the mixture should be reliably protected from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, moisture and air.
But what is polyurethane foam shells for pipe insulation, you can find out by going to
Ecowool
The material itself is not liquid. But it can be the main component of the mixture, which is applied in a liquid state.
In the photo, ecowool for the outer wall:
Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose (waste from wood processing enterprises, printing industry, waste paper), and 12% is boric acid. Another 8% is a fire retardant - a substance that increases the fire resistance of products.
If cellulose is wetted, the fibers become sticky. In addition, glue is added to the mixture. Such a composition is applied to the walls for their insulation.
Ecowool characteristics:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- The spraying is seamless, which contributes to good thermal insulation.
- Excellent soundproofing.
- Environmental friendliness.
- Fire resistance. Ecowool, even when ignited, quickly extinguishes itself, and its smoke is not toxic.
On the video, what kind of insulation is better to insulate the house from the outside:
Flaws:
- Ecowool "shrinks" over time. Therefore, initially this must be taken into account, the layer should be applied 10% thicker than necessary.
- It must not be covered with vapor-proof materials. If there is no ventilation, the thermal insulation properties will be lost.
- High-quality installation can only be carried out by professionals.
Choose a material for thermal insulation of a summer house, based on the quality characteristics of the material, your material capabilities and the feasibility of insulation in one way or another.