The price is also available for any income level.
Comfort
A warm floor, both water and infrared, allows you to create the most correct distribution of heat throughout the room. The heated air rises from top to bottom, so that the legs will not experience discomfort all the time. It is pleasant and completely safe to step on such a floor.
hygiene
If we consider the process of moving heat in space from heat sources such as radiators or convectors, we can see that dust settled on the surface rises along with the air. In the case of underfloor heating, this process is excluded. This is very convenient, especially if there are children or people with asthma in the family.
economy
The minimum temperature is formed only under the ceiling. But why does a person need this space? Thus, the entire territory of the room, in which it is customary to stay, is heated evenly, this creates the effect of significant energy savings.
Durability
Of course, the service life will mainly depend on the materials and operating conditions. But for water systems, it is still much higher than the electric floor.
Self-regulation
One of the important characteristics of a warm floor is that it maintains a given mode without outside interference. This is due to internal processes where the floor heats up the air until the temperatures are equal.
Simplicity
A water heated floor, like a film one, is installed very easily, and this can be done without acquiring special skills. Probably the hardest part is the design. Schematic layout and thinking over the optimal location requires a careful approach. But the installation of pipes, their connection is not at all difficult.
Step 2 Limitations
A warm water floor is possible for installation in rooms that were originally thought out for this. That is, if the cottage project provides for the possibility of laying pipes on the floor, then this can be done at any time. In apartments of multi-storey buildings, unfortunately, this is not possible. This is explained by the fact that water enters the radiators under a certain pressure, which is designed for all apartments, and if you create a layer, it will change, and the neighbors will suffer.
If a decision is made to install a water floor, then immediately you need to consider the option of flooring. For him, tile or laminate is best suited. Linoleum is not highly recommended by experts, since not all of it is made from quality materials. Some components, when heated, can release a terrible smell or harmful toxic substances.
Parquet or carpet is also not suitable due to their high heat transfer. That is, they will not conduct heat outside, but will give it back inside, which, of course, is undesirable.
Step 3. Selecting components
Distribution node. It consists of three parts: a collector group, a pump and a mixer. The pump is responsible for the circulation of water, and the mixer provides the required temperature. If the floor is installed in a small area, then it can also be adjusted manually, but if the kitchen is very large, then there are specially adapted pumping and mixing devices for this.
Underfloor heating circuit. This is actually a system of running pipes. The best option to use is a material based on PEX or high temperature resistant PERT. This raw material is light, strong and flexible. It combines such qualities as low price, good technical characteristics and long service life. The water temperature is evenly distributed over the entire surface. If an error occurs and you connect the joints incorrectly, then, unlike metal-plastic or metal, pipes will not lose their properties, and you can easily redo the mistake.
Step 4. Design
At this stage, it should be determined whether the underfloor heating system will be the only heating method or just an addition to the main one. In the first case, the temperature distributed over the entire surface will be much lower than in radiators. It is approximately 30-40°C, and in the second case - 60-90°C. Accordingly, this must be taken into account when setting up the heating boiler.
To calculate the number of pipes, a formula is adopted when per 1 sq. meter area is taken 5 meters of pipe. That is, in the kitchen, an area of 6 square meters. m., you need 30 meters of pipes. The most favorable temperature for perception is 24-26°C, which means that at the entrance it should be 2-3 degrees higher.
All of the above concerned the heating system only in the floor covering. If the structure will be placed in addition to an existing radiator, then it is necessary to create a displacement unit that will switch from high temperatures in the radiators to a lower temperature supplied to the floor. The principle of operation is similar to that of an ordinary mixer on a tap, it can be controlled both manually and automatically.
To do this, you need to choose a step, taking into account the following points:
- Identify areas of active heat loss. They are located near windows, doors, balconies. Here the step should be 10-15 cm.
- The loop pipe must touch these areas or pass directly below them.
- For the central area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen, it is advisable to use a step of 20-30 cm.
- Pipe laying can be done in two ways: snake or spiral. For a small kitchen, it would be best to choose the second option. There will be fewer bends, which means less chance of pipe deformation.
- The distance from the wall to the contour must be at least 15 cm.
Step 5 Mounting
The first step is to prepare the surface. To install pipes, it is necessary to exclude a difference in even insignificant heights, and for this, a screed should be drawn over the entire surface.
- Layer to prevent moisture ingress. Provided with mastic and ordinary film.
- A layer to exclude heat loss with the help of a material, which includes foamed polyethylene and expanded polystyrene.
After the layers are installed, it is necessary to make markings on the floor according to the drawn pipe layout. This can be done with an ordinary marker. Pipes can be fixed to the surface in several ways. The first is the use of reinforcing mesh, to which sections are screwed with clamps or ordinary wire. And the second - polystyrene plates. This is a special marking for laying pipes. It has small humps arranged in a certain order. A pipe is installed between them.
After all the parts are laid out, connected and connected to the distribution nodes, it is necessary to test the system. This is done to make sure that the joints are well sealed, that nothing is leaking anywhere, and that the pipes can withstand the resulting pressure.
If everything went well, a concrete screed is made, on which the flooring will subsequently be installed.
The nuances of forming a screed of a water-heated floor
There are certain features in the formation of a screed for a water-heated floor. This is due to the principle of heat distribution in its thickness and the floor covering used.
1. When laying a water heated floor under the tiles, it is necessary to make a screed about 3-5 cm thick or calculate the pipes so that the gap is 10-15 cm. If this is not done, the heat from the pipes will not warm up the space between them.
2. If laid on surfaces such as laminate, linoleum, etc. the screed becomes thinner. In this case, for strength, you can use another reinforcing mesh on top of the warm floor. This will reduce the thermal path from the pipes to the floor surface. Under the laminate, a layer of heat insulator does not fit, because it will only worsen the efficiency of the warm floor.
Wizard's advice
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So that the oil paint does not dry out during storage and that a film does not form on it, place a mug of thick paper on the surface of the paint and fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.
"The polyethylene film covering the balcony or greenhouse will be protected from breaking by the wind of the string, stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm."
"To make it easier to work with the concrete mixture, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoonful of washing powder to it at the rate of a bucket of water."
"So that the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the barrier, does not rotate with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire on it and slightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is well held in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening. "
"It is possible to cut a birdhouse notch without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut half-holes of the required size with a chisel or hatchet, and then reconnect the halves."
Wooden plugs for screws crumble and fall out of the wall. Do not rush to cut a new cork. Stuff the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. With a red-hot nail of a suitable diameter, melt a hole for the screw. Ra fused capron will turn into a solid cork.
" A carpenter's level can easily be turned into a theodolite by providing it with a sighting device from a slot and a front sight. "
"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end-to-end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of the linoleum."
"In order for the nail to go in the right direction and not bend when driving into a deep hole or groove, place it inside the tube, fixing it with crumpled paper or plasticine."
Before hammering a hole in a concrete wall, fasten a piece of paper just below. Dust and fragments of concrete will not fly around the room.
"To cut the pipe exactly at a right angle, we advise you to drink like this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."
"To turn logs or wooden beams will help a simple device - a piece of a motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and attached to a crowbar on the other side."
"In order to be able to work with a two-handed saw alone, we recommend using a simple trick: move the saw handle from the top position to the bottom. "
You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail with a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.
" The best way to glue a tile to a wall is to take bitumen, melt it and put just four drops on the corners of the tile. Stick on dead."
Shaped holes in the manufacture of curly window casings are most conveniently cut with a hacksaw with a turned blade.
"Making stained-glass windows is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of a stained-glass window. To do this, they take thin slats or rods of a vine, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and varnish it."
"If there is no dowel at hand, it can be made from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen may also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the desired length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready."
" It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But it is enough to shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and it will become much easier to work. "
"A very strong, non-shrinking and sufficiently waterproof putty is obtained from bustilate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."
"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a chipboard, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (but not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day. The plate does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be put under load through day. "
"It is more convenient to fix portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass not with carnations, but with pushpins bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared to nails, the danger of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum."
"It is not so easy to wrap a screw in hard wood. If you prick a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw liberally with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."
To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw a circle around the border of the Edge from the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of folding.
For carrying large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.
IF you need to cut a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely on the stick.
It will become easier to work with a hacksaw if in its middle part it is increased by 1/3 of the height of the teeth.
How to choose the laying step and pipe laying method
The most remarkable property of water underfloor heating, in comparison with other heating systems, is the comfort created in the room due to the formation of an optimal temperature field for a person. Unfortunately, the vast majority of companies involved in the installation of underfloor heating cannot carry out a qualitative calculation of the system, and therefore offer additional heating means in the form of radiators or convectors, even in modern energy-efficient homes. The most important characteristics that affect the efficiency of the system are laying step and laying method underfloor heating pipes. The correct choice of these parameters during design work allows you to significantly increase the efficiency of the heating system and refuse additional heating, thereby retaining the main advantages of a water-heated floor. At the same time, it is necessary to comply with the condition of not exceeding the maximum allowable temperature of the floor surface. Of course, a high-quality heating system project involves the use of high-quality equipment.
Therefore, if you are told that it is impossible to heat your house only with a warm floor, without the additional use of radiators, convectors or fan coil units, you should think about it. If the house is old and does not have insulation (heat loss is more than 100 W / m 2), then perhaps this is so. But, if the house is built according to modern technologies or has at least a slight thermal insulation of the walls and roof and double-glazed windows are installed in it, you have reason to doubt the competence of the designer. Most likely, this person does not have the necessary knowledge for the qualitative calculation of a water-heated floor.
Our experience shows that for any relatively insulated house (with heat losses of less than 70-80 W/m2) it is possible to organize heating using any water-heated floor system. If the heat loss is in the range of 80 W/m2 to 100 W/m2, underfloor heating is only possible with a concrete system using certain technical solutions.
With proper design of a heating system based on a water-heated floor, a fairly large number of tasks related to thermal and hydraulic calculations are solved, as well as the choice of technical solutions and engineering approaches.
One of the main tasks is the choice of the type of system ( concrete or flat), as well as way and laying step pipes of contours of a water heat-insulated floor. It is these parameters that determine the possibility of using a warm floor as a complete single heating system in a particular room. The choice of these parameters is carried out taking into account the purpose of the room and the amount of heat loss.
What installation methods are there
There are two main laying method pipes of water floor heating circuits - “snake” and “snail” (other names are “spiral” or “shell”).
The advantage of the "snake" is the ease of design and installation, so this method has become more widespread in Western countries. The disadvantages of the method are a greater difference in floor temperatures across the room, which leads to the effect of a temperature-striped floor, when different temperatures of the floor sections corresponding to the input and output of the circuits are felt. Because of this, the degree of comfort decreases, and there is also a possibility (if heat losses are large) that the temperature of individual sections of the floor exceeds the permissible values according to SNiP 41-01-2003, according to which the average temperature of the floors of rooms with permanent residence of people should not exceed 26 ° C, and floors of rooms with temporary stay of people - 31°C. To reduce the effect of temperature "striping", the design introduces a restriction on the maximum temperature difference of the coolant (no more than 5 ° C) at the inlet and outlet of the heating circuits, which also imposes restrictions on the maximum output power. Therefore, the serpentine laying method is mainly used in rooms with low heat losses or in industrial enterprises.
The “snail” (“spiral”) laying method is most widely used in Russia and Ukraine. The only drawback of the method is more complex design and more laborious installation. The main advantage is the uniform distribution of temperature over the floor surface, which is achieved by successive alternation of supply (hotter) and return (colder) pipes. Temperature averaging takes place in heat distributors, which are either a concrete screed (subject to a minimum screed thickness of 50 mm) or aluminum plates (for non-concrete decking systems). This laying method allows you to significantly increase the heating load removed from the warm floor by increasing the allowable temperature difference (pressure / return flow) up to 10 ° C, and for systems with high power (for example, for snow melting systems) up to 25 ° C.
How to choose the right laying step
The next parameter of the heating system under consideration is laying step pipes of contours of a water heat-insulated floor (distance between pipes of contours of a heat-insulated floor). This is one of the most important parameters and the correct operation of the entire system depends on its choice. The heat load depends on the laying step, which can be provided by a water-heated floor, as well as the uniformity of temperature distribution over the floor surface. With an increase in the laying step, it is also necessary to increase the temperature of the heat carrier supplied to the system in order to obtain the required calculated average temperature of the floor surface.
The laying step size is in the range of values from 50 to 600 mm. The most commonly used pitch values are 150, 200 and 300 mm. The choice of laying step, as a rule, is made depending on the type of room and on the value of its calculated heat load. There are options for laying with a constant and variable step. So, with a heating load of less than 50 W / m 2, it is permissible to lay a water-heated floor with a constant step of 300 mm. At high temperatures (more than 80 W/m2), as well as in bathrooms and rooms where there are strict requirements for the uniformity of the floor surface temperature, the recommended laying step is 150 mm. In other, intermediate cases, as a rule, a variable laying step is taken - in the edge zones (along the outer walls, where the greatest heat losses occur), a more frequent laying step is used, and in the inner areas of the premises - a rarer one. The number of rows with a smaller pitch is determined during the system design process. Laying with a 200 mm pitch is usually used in large industrial premises, as well as in water parks and swimming pools. In this case, as a rule, a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm is used as the contours of the warm floor.
The drafting of the heated floor is carried out by qualified specialists who make calculations using special programs and taking into account all the requirements of the customer. However, the cost of such work is quite high. Therefore, a large number of people are independently engaged in carrying out calculations using various recommendations. One of the necessary parameters in the calculation is the distance between the underfloor heating pipes. How to determine this parameter, read on.
The main parameters affecting the determination of the pipe layout step
The distance between the pipes of the warm floor is determined based on the following parameters, which are the main ones:
- room area;
- type and diameter of pipes used in the heating system;
Determining the area of a room
Area = width * length.
Experts recommend reducing the resulting figure by the area occupied by large furniture. Heating the floor under the furniture is not advisable, as it can lead to deformation, and reducing the area will save the money required for arranging the floor.
Taking into account the results obtained, it is possible to determine the most optimal step for laying the turns of the pipeline.
View Influence
The pitch of the water heated floor pipes is also determined based on the material of the product, or rather on the coefficient of its thermal conductivity, and the pipe.
Copper and corrugated stainless pipes have the highest coefficient value. Further, the decrease of the considered parameter occurs according to the following scheme:
- polyethylene;
- polypropylene.
That is, polypropylene pipes have the lowest heat transfer coefficient, which are recommended to be used to organize a heating system only in exceptional cases.
The higher the heat transfer coefficient, the greater the distance pipes can be laid and vice versa. Thus, the smaller diameter pipes are used, the smaller the laying step should be.
The relationship between step and coolant temperature is shown in the table.
For a certain pipe diameter, the laying step should be the higher, the higher the average temperature of the coolant in the system.
The most popular are pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. In this case, the laying pitch is 250 mm - 300 mm in the living room, 100 mm - 150 mm in the bathroom and 300 mm - 350 mm in other premises.
Extra options
Among the additional parametersaffecting the distance between the pipes of a warm water floor, one can distinguish:
- wishes of the customer about the average temperature in the heated room;
- pipeline laying method.
Room temperature
Comfortable temperature for living in various rooms is determined by experts.
The data from the table are determined for central Russia, where the temperature during the cold season rarely drops below 30ºС. For the northern regions, the presented indicators are recommended to be increased by 2ºС - 4ºС.
Any customer, at will, can increase or decrease the temperature in the heating system. To do this, when installing the floor, it is enough to reduce or increase the pipe laying step, respectively.
Pipe laying methods
Experts distinguish between the following pipe laying methods used for arranging the floor:
- snake or corner snake. The pipe is first of all carried out to the coldest zones of the room (to the outer walls, balcony or windows), and then spirals back to the heating equipment. When using a snake, it is impossible to achieve uniform heating of the room. This method is used if it is necessary to cut off cold air from the places of its entry and if there are additional heating sources. When laying pipes with a snake, the step between the pipes should be the minimum allowable, that is, 100 mm;
- double snake. The principle of the arrangement of pipes is similar to the previous scheme. The difference in laying is that the direct and return pipes run almost parallel to each other. This method allows increasing the distance between the turns up to 150 mm - 250 mm;
- snail. Pipes are laid along the outer contour and spiral down to the middle of the room. What is the distance between the underfloor heating pipes when using spiral laying? This method is considered the most optimal. It allows you to lay pipes with the greatest distance between them, since heat losses are minimal, and floor heating is quite uniform.
Any type of pipe laying can be done both with the same pitch and with different distances between the pipes. This method allows you to optimize the distribution of heat inside the room.
You can learn more about pipe layout methods, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of all schemes, by watching the video.
From the chosen step of laying the floor pipeline, such indicators as the uniformity of heat distribution, the number of pipes required for the installation of the heating system depend.
If you choose a small layout step, the floor will heat up too much, which will cause discomfort for residents. When using a scheme with a large layout step, the floor will heat up unevenly and a person will be able to feel the temperature difference with their feet. An accurate calculation of floor parameters is recommended to be carried out with the assistance of specialists or a specialized computer program, for example.
Greetings to everyone who reads this article! It is devoted to errors during the installation of a currently very popular low-temperature heating system - a water-heated floor (abbreviated VTP). If someone does not understand, then underfloor heating is called a low-temperature system due to the fact that the coolant in them must have a temperature of no more than 50 ° Celsius. At the same time, the temperature of the floor itself should not exceed 26 ° in residential premises and 31 ° Celsius at the paths and edgings of the pools. I recommend reading the article about it. Let's get down to business and start looking at installation errors.
Incorrect preparation of the surface for laying underfloor heating.
Often, during self-installation of the ECP, people forget that they need to level the base under the floor. Let's explain what it threatens - if different sections of the underfloor heating circuit lie at different vertical levels, then there is a high probability of air locks. Due to the air lock, the coolant will stop circulating around the circuit, which means it will not heat up. To avoid this, you need to level and thoroughly clean the surface of debris. For clarity, I suggest you watch the following video:
Incorrect installation of damper tape.
Let me remind you that the damper tape is needed in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete, which occurs due to an increase in its temperature. Often people forget to attach it to the walls or choose the wrong tape width. The damper tape should be 2-3 cm higher than the level of the final screed. The tape is attached to the wall with dowel-nails if it does not have an adhesive side. The tape along the entire length should be equally adjacent to the wall. Watch the following video:
The video shows the installation of self-adhesive tape, so the installer does not use dowel-nails. But in the next video they will be:
Incorrect laying of underfloor heating pipes.
Laying ETP pipes is not an easy task for an inexperienced "homemade" who decided to save on installation and do everything himself. Here it all starts with laying thermal insulation on a rough screed. As thermal insulation, polystyrene foam of different thicknesses, or foil-foamed polyethylene is used. The latter is used where it is not possible to lay a thick insulation. It is worth saying that the alkaline environment of the screed quickly corrodes the foil, so it will not be of much use. Although at the moment there are samples of such a heater, where the foil is covered with a layer of polyethylene on top, which should protect aluminum from the action of alkali.
foil insulation
Styrofoam insulation
The insulation must be laid tightly without any play.
Now we turn directly to the problems of laying pipes of the ETP. I will list them as a list:
- Lack of a preliminary plan - the presence of a preliminary plan helps a lot when installing an ECP. The plan marks the entry and exit points of the pipes, the laying step, the distance from the walls and other things.
- Failure to comply with the laying step - many people save on the pipe and make the laying step more than 30 cm. In this case, a "zebra" appears. This means that the floor will be either cold or warm. The laying step is in the range from 10 to 30 cm.
- Too long warm circuits - for a water-heated floor made by a pipe 16 mm in diameter, the length limit will be 100 meters, and for the 20th pipe, the loop length will be 120 meters. If you make the loop longer, then the coolant will most likely not circulate through it.
I suggest you watch this video:
After laying, it is necessary to pressure test the pipes with water. Pressure testing is done with a pressure of at least 3 atmospheres. The screed is also poured onto the pipe under pressure. This is necessary so that the solution does not flatten the pipe with its weight. Since we are talking about the screed, let's look at this process carefully.
Pouring underfloor heating screed.
Here comes the moment when it is no longer possible to retreat further - this is the moment of pouring the screed. By this time, the entire pipe should be laid, secured and under pressure (the water in the pipe should be at room temperature). Speaking of connection! I recommend that you read the article that is devoted to.
The main mistake that can be made when pouring is the wrong thickness of the screed. It cannot be made thinner than 3 cm and thicker than 10 cm. In addition, there are requirements for the composition of the mixture - it must be at least grade 400. Of course, this requirement is not always observed, but you need to know about it. There is nothing much more to say here, I propose to see how it is done:
Conclusion.
Water heated floor is a complex engineering system. You can save here, but almost certainly it will be at the expense of the quality of either materials or work performed. It is worth carefully selecting people for such work, it is desirable that they have some kind of “portfolio” where you can see his success in this matter. If you are interested, read the article about it. On materials, too, you need to save carefully. What you pour into the concrete should be of good qualityso that you do not have to open it all up later. On this we will say goodbye for now, I'm waiting for your questions in the comment
Mistakes when installing underfloor heating: what you need to know?
Installation of underfloor heating screed has a number of features. It is important to take into account that the finished structure cannot be disassembled in order to repair or change something in it. The only thing that can be done is to split it and throw it away.
At the very least, this will have to be done with separate pieces of screed, which are limited by thermal seams and have one water circuit. Therefore, it is very important to approach with maximum responsibility and not make mistakes.
Reasons why the boiler does not turn off
Sometimes it happens that during the operation of a warm floor, the boiler starts to work much longer, and, as a result, fuel consumption increases. This is due to the fact that the screed heats the foundation, street walls and even the air around the house. What is the reason?
It happens that at the edges of the base on which the screed is installed, there are elevations. If you do not put a heater in this place, this will lead to the described problem. Another common reason is savings on extruded polystyrene foam. When this material is put much less than necessary, they get the same result: the screed heats the street.
In the warm floor there is a large number of pipeline contours. Moreover, each of them is located in its own piece of screed, which has a limitation in the form of thermal seams. For efficient operation of the underfloor heating, special metal-plastic pipes with an outer diameter of 1.6 cm should be used. The optimal length in the circuit is from 50 to 80 meters.
Therefore, it is very important that the length of the contours is approximately equal. If you make one of the circuits too long, you will have to increase the resistance in other circuits. Because of this, the pump will be overloaded, and the warm floor will stop functioning.
The appearance on the floor of areas of different temperatures
When laying pipes, it is important not to exceed the distance between them of 20 cm. Otherwise, areas of different temperatures may occur. The optimal laying step is 15 cm, despite the fact that in one square meter of underfloor heating there are about 6.7 meters of pipes. At the outer walls, it is recommended to make a laying step of no more than 10 cm, because this area should warm up more strongly.
In order for the screed to perform its function well, not to crack or tear pipes, it is important to take into account several main details.
First of all, these are:
- A screed made of a mixture of sand and cement must be at least 8 cm thick.
- One piece with a contour should not exceed a linear size of 4 meters.
- Fiber and plasticizer must be added without fail.
- It is necessary to reinforce the screed pieces with a 15x15 cm mesh made of 0.4 cm wire and fixed at a distance of 2 cm from the bottom plane.
What factors lead to rupture of pipes and cracking of the screed:
- There are no expansion joints between the wall and adjacent pieces of screed.
- Lack of thermal insulation on pipes located in the screed.
- Lack of thermal insulation on the pipes located in the strobes of the coupler to the batteries.
- Lack of insulation of pipes up to 50 cm located at the inlet or outlet of the screed.
In order for the pump to cope, it is impossible to connect more than 8 pipes to one collector. When there are more pipes, an additional collector should be installed. If there is no heat carrier mixing unit, and the underfloor heating system is connected incorrectly, overheating will occur. But in the case when the length of the circuits does not exceed 40 meters, you can connect them through RTL boxes.
Must be equipped with air vents. Otherwise, underfloor heating will not function.
Also, incorrect, chaotic connection of the circuits to the collector will lead to a complete shutdown of the system. It is important to prevent the appearance of dents, creases and other defects on the pipes. In order to avoid serious financial losses, it is recommended to test the underfloor heating hydraulics without fail before installing the screed.
Why you can't do without radiators
In order to save money, some people decide to use only for space heating. But this is possible only in places with the warmest climate.
In other cases, a warm floor will not be able to cope with this task without overheating, which is very dangerous for it. And few people like walking on a very hot floor. So for what reasons exactly should you not independently calculate the heat loss for installing a warm floor?
Under normal conditions, it is impossible to determine what the air exchange in the room is at the moment and how it will change when the temperature drops significantly. In addition, it is important to take into account that ventilation takes from 30 to 40% of the generated energy, and when there is a draft in the room, this figure rises to 90%.
Also, it will not be possible to independently calculate the influx of solar energy, the humidity of structures, shading and many other factors. It would be more correct to use general approximate calculations of heat losses for the domestic level, and also take into account experience that has a positive outcome.
During construction work, it is necessary to avoid the above mistakes, then the warm floor will function correctly and provide a comfortable microclimate in the living room.
The bathroom in the apartment is a small room with high humidity, usually without heating (not counting the heated towel rail). Therefore, a tiled floor is most often laid here, which is best heated using.
Underfloor heating in a bathroom or shower must be safe, reliable and durable. When creating such a heating system, it is important to avoid installation errors.
Basic rules for laying underfloor heating in the bathroom
1. You can not combine one warm floor in two rooms.
You should not combine a warm floor system, for example, a bathroom and a corridor. For efficient and economical heating, each room must have its own, connected to an individual thermostat. If, say, you continue the cable from the hallway to the bathroom and use only one thermostat, then you will not be able to achieve accurate temperature control and your underfloor heating will disappoint you.
2. We do not neglect the laying scheme.
Before proceeding with the installation of a warm floor in the bathroom under the tiles, you need to draw a diagram. And keep it even after the work is completed.
So you will always know where the heat sensor and heating elements are located. And in the case of replacing the sensor, you do not have to chip off the entire tile. And in the process of installing plumbing, you will not damage the cable.
3. Not cable mode.
The heating cable is sold in prefabricated sections and must not be added or cut. If this is ignored, then the operation of the system will be unsafe, and even not workable at all.
When laying the cable floor in the bathroom, be sure to select the kit that matches your quadrature.
4. Construction waste can be harmful.
In order not to damage the cable even at the layout stage, start with cleaning. The rough floor is recommended to be well cleaned of debris, vacuumed and primed.
And yet, you should not walk on a heater that is not hidden in a screed, this can damage it and then you have to buy a new one.
5. Incorrectly selected thermal insulation.
Another point that should not be neglected. To prevent heat from escaping to neighbors, delay it by first placing extruded polystyrene foam or another type of rigid structure insulation on the subfloor.
And, since this is a bathroom, remember that the insulation must be moisture resistant. Cork material will not work.
6. Failure to comply with the rules for laying the floor.
- The cable or film must not overlap. Intersecting, they will damage the system.
- Underfloor heating in the bathroom for a bathtub, toilet bowl, washing machine, shower cubicle with a tray is not installed. If the cable gets under fixed furniture, heat is trapped, which shortens the life of the system.
- Be sure to indent from the wall 5 - 10 cm.
7. We call the cable before pouring the screed.
So that after pouring the screed and laying the tiles there are no unpleasant surprises, check the performance of the system at different stages of work.
After the heater has been laid out, check the resistance of the system (ring) and compare it with the figures indicated by the manufacturer. But in no case do not turn on the warm cable floor without a screed!
Also check the resistance after completing the installation work.
8. Temperature sensor - does not hide in concrete.
The temperature sensor must be placed in a corrugated tube with a plug, this makes it easier to replace it if it fails over time.
9. Air voids must not be allowed in the screed.
In no case should a working cable come into contact with air. This will knock him out. Therefore, when making a screed, control the distribution of the solution so that it envelops the cable from all sides. Contact of the heater with air can lead to 100% replacement of the heated floor in the bathroom or shower.
10. We are waiting for the complete drying of the screed.
If you want your underfloor heating under the tiles in the bathroom to work for many years, do not turn on the system until the screed or tile adhesive is completely dry. Be patient and wait 28-30 days for everything to dry on its own.
By speeding up the drying process, you risk getting a poor-quality screed with cracks and air voids, which will lead to a breakdown of the warm floor.
The underfloor heating system is quite popular today. With the help of a heating cable, thermomats, infrared film or pipes, floor covering can be heated. In fact, it is not too difficult to lay the heating elements with your own hands, however, many inexperienced craftsmen make the simplest mistakes, due to which the entire system can fail some time after installation. Below we will consider the main mistakes when installing a warm floor of a water and electric type.
- Incorrect calculation of materials. When calculating the length of the heating cable or the dimensions of the mats, you need to use the useful area of the room, and not the total. Useful area means the space that will not be cluttered with furniture, appliances and other objects. If heating elements are mounted under large objects, the system will overheat in these places, due to which it will fail. To avoid this mistake, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the technology.
- It is forbidden to cut into pieces suitable in length. If there is more conductor than necessary, try to lay it a little closer together, while not violating the manufacturer's requirements. We draw your attention to the fact that it is devoid of such a drawback, therefore, when installing it, you are unlikely to make this mistake.
- Keep track of the laying step, as well as indents from walls and other objects. Remember that the loops of the conductor must not cross each other, otherwise overheating may occur.
- Observe the minimum bending radius indicated in the technical data. As a rule, it is from 5 to 10 cable diameters.
- Heating elements should only be laid on a clean surface. During installation, make sure that the warm floor does not lie on construction debris, otherwise, after pouring the screed under mechanical stress, it will quickly fail. It is even recommended to remove all dust before installation work.
- An elementary mistake, which is also made by inexperienced specialists, is ignoring the recommendations for dialing the system after installation. Be sure to measure the resistance of the system and compare this value with the nominal value indicated in the passport before pouring the screed or laying the parquet (on infrared film). Perhaps you made a mistake in the connection and the system no longer works. Then it will be much more difficult to repair a warm floor. We have covered this in detail in a separate article.
- You can turn on the warm floor only after the screed has hardened. If you decide to check if the floor is heating up before the grout dries, it could damage the system. It is strictly forbidden to turn on the cable in the bay.
- The temperature sensor must be placed in the corrugation so that it can be easily removed at any time (for repair or replacement). The end of the corrugation must be sealed so that the solution does not get on the sensor.
- The sensor itself must be placed in the middle between two turns of the cable so that it shows the temperature as accurately as possible. Too remote distance from the cable will provoke the constant operation of the system and vice versa. It is recommended to place the temperature sensor close to the surface of the new floor covering.
- Each room should have its own underfloor heating circuit and its own thermostat. A gross mistake is to save materials during installation and make a single system with one temperature controller.
- During installation work, do not step on the cable, especially when wearing hard-soled shoes. This can damage the conductors and insulation. Try to bypass the coils of the heating element.
- Before pouring the screed, take a picture of the layout of all the elements so that during the repair you can know where everything is.
- In no case should you contribute to the fastest solidification of the solution by turning on the system. Those who advise turning on the heating immediately after installation will sooner or later face a situation where the system will quickly fail.
- Before starting work, be sure to read the instructions in which the manufacturer can recommend important points. Our main mistake is that we first do, and then we read the instructions. So it's better the other way around.
- Remember, infrared floor heating should be laid under parquet, laminate and linoleum, and thermomats and heating cable under tiles. If you lay a film floor in the bathroom and pour tile adhesive on it, the system will not work. It seems to be obvious facts, but sometimes they manage to do this.
At first glance, it is very simple to install water-type underfloor heating. It is very important to do everything correctly and with the greatest efficiency of its work. Often, novice builders are faced with such problems when a warm water floor does not heat up. There can be a large number of reasons here, and each of them lies in the technology itself and the sequence of execution of each layer. If you give up on one point of the whole process, then in the end you will not be able to get anything positive.
Correct Foundation
Prior to the start, all measures should be taken to carry out preparatory activities. The base should be cleaned of debris and dust, as all this will adversely affect the operation of the system. If the surface is uneven, then many will find that everything can be smoothed out by subsequent pouring of a concrete screed along the contour. Such installation errors of a warm water floor are often found among those who first start laying the contour.
For a warm water floor, there must be a very flat surface at the base. All irregularities can only damage the pipeline. In addition, in the future, the concrete screed will not have an equal thickness over the contour. Therefore, you can not think about uniform heating of the floor in the room.
In addition, the walls in the room must also be brought to a normal state. That is, they happen, if necessary, they are plastered, cut off in certain places. If this is not done, then the damper tape will no longer adjoin the walls tightly, and sag in some areas. They will no longer be able to show their main function.
Material calculation
For the full functioning of the underfloor heating system, it is necessary to correctly calculate the underfloor heating, or rather the amount of materials for installation. Mats for underfloor heating as insulation, as well as the length of the pipeline is calculated based not on the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room, but on its useful volume. That is, not the entire base of the floor will be covered by the outline. Areas with located furniture, plumbing fixtures, etc., are circled, since they will not let heat into the room, overheating of a separate section of the laid pipes may occur. 
These errors in the installation of a warm water floor lead to subsequent work on the dismantling of the floor covering, concrete screed, and the identification of a problem area of the underfloor heating circuit. All this takes not only time, but also finances. The calculation technology includes all the subtleties and allows you to get accurate results.
Heat shrink tape
When, measures are taken for a quality device on the wall of a tape that compensates for the thermal expansion of the concrete screed. 
As mentioned earlier, before fixing it, you should prepare the walls, align them. In addition to this, all electrical wires and communications should be bypassed with a damper tape so that it fits snugly against the wall.
If you mount the tape just like, in the future you will not have to rely on high-quality pouring of the concrete screed. A solution will penetrate through it from the side of the wall, which in the future during operation will not allow the tape to show all its qualities. Problems will begin with the floor surface, damage to the floor covering.
Thermal insulation device
The lower sections of the damper tape are best pressed with a layer where polystyrene is most often used. But it is worth remembering that he will not be able to compensate for those irregularities that may be on the basis of the subfloor. Prior to its installation, all garbage collection activities should also be carried out.
If the work is performed by specialists for a fee, then it is best to control this process. After all, they can lay polystyrene very quickly, and you will no longer know what the foundation was there. Sometimes even when passing through this layer, you can feel defects from under the bottom.
"Pie" underfloor heating When the water does not heat, the reasons can be completely different. But to a greater extent, they start from the very base, from the insulation layer. Even manufacturers recommend arranging a thickness of 100 mm. Especially when it comes to the presence of a basement without heating. If you spend less money on the purchase of material, that is, save money, then the layer will turn out to be about 30-50 mm. But during the period of warming up the room from, part of the heat will be spent on heating the lower section, from the basement side. Heating costs will rise and the room will not be warm enough.
Reflective film
To improve the quality of heat transfer inside the house, it will not be superfluous to lay a special reflective tape on the polystyrene. 
It additionally has markings with a division of 50 mm for better fixation in the subsequent pipeline. According to the rules, it must be mounted strictly exactly without deviations and at the same time refuel for. This can only be done when the polystyrene is pressed tightly against the walls of the room through a damper tape. These are also common mistakes in laying a water-heated floor. Some generally simply cut the film around the perimeter of the location of the edges of the polystyrene along the walls, glue it with adhesive tape to fix it. It is impossible to use such material as adhesive tape, since it is used exclusively for packaging, and it is harmful to human health.
When the film is mounted on the base, you can start laying the reinforcing layer in the form of a metal mesh. It will not be a mistake to lay a water-heated floor with a reinforcement device on top of the pipeline before pouring the screed. It's like two alternatives.
Errors when installing pipes
When the reflective film is laid, you can proceed with the installation of a warm floor. At the same time, it is important to choose its diameter, dimensions, total length, height and other characteristics for the correct calculation of a warm floor. It is worth remembering that you still need to choose a pipeline laying scheme, and not experiment with your desires. 
The standard version of pipes for underfloor heating in diameter is 16 mm. Some use 20 mm, but in this case, the installation process will take longer and become somewhat more complicated. In addition, the consumption of water supplied through the system pipeline will increase. An exception is if you want to warm up a large area of \u200b\u200bthe room. In all other cases, it is better to spend more money on the device in order to eliminate heat loss.
A very small number of performers carry out the following activities, which are very important in order to eliminate errors in the installation of a water-heated floor:
If all this is done and reflected in a schematic plan, then it will be possible to see areas in the room with problems, as well as possible difficulties in the installation process. must be drawn before actual execution. Some simply believe that even without it, everyone knows for themselves how best to do it. No one wants to waste time on such seemingly trifles.
Without an organized scheme, laying a pipeline is a complete chaos that will not lead to any positive result. At any stage, the installation of a warm water floor requires a competent calculation and careful approach.
It should also be remembered that some places based on gender require more attention from the performers. This applies primarily to the outer walls from the side of the street. They require more insulation. Some make mistakes and run only one pipe directly against the wall. Throughout the rest of the perimeter, everything is evenly spaced. To achieve uniform heating, the laying of the pipeline is carried out with a smaller step near such walls.
The indentation at the walls is carried out for the subsequent installation of the plinth after the floor covering, as well as possible engineering low-current systems. There will definitely be no order here.
pipe bending
Frequent mistakes are made when bending the pipe to arrange a certain angle of the system. This is where skill comes in handy. 
It is easier to work with metal-plastic pipes than from. For such actions, there are improvised means in the form of springs, but everything is still carried out mainly by hand, which is more efficient. In addition, when using an external spring and creating an angle of 90 degrees, it simply clamps. You will have to spend a lot of effort to pull it out of the resulting bend, stretch it along the entire pipeline to the next section. Not only the back will begin to suffer, but also the knees.
On the network you can find a large number of videos that allow you to bend yourself and without any extra effort. You do not have to buy various pipe benders and advertised funds, spend money on them.
If you do not comply with elementary requirements, everything will turn out crooked and oblique. This can be said not so much as errors in the installation of a water-heated floor, but shortcomings that lead to disastrous consequences and poor heating of the floor base around the entire perimeter of the room.
Pipe bending rules Choice of laying step
When marking is done on the basis for laying the pipeline, not always even specialists can place everything correctly. The pitch must be maintained throughout the entire contour. And it turns out a spread of up to 100 mm. The exception here is the reduction of the step in certain areas, such as, for example, at the outer walls.
The choice of step will depend on the power of the circuit. The higher it is, the smaller the step should be. In addition, the distance from the wall to the pipeline must be maintained, which is usually 30 cm. The maximum length of one circuit is 90 m. This is done in order not to lose heat throughout the pipeline.
Some may say that under the floor screed, no defects in the location of the pipeline, compliance with the laying step, will be visible. But only people who do not understand the operation of the system can say this. As a result, the base of the floor will receive heat unevenly over the entire plane, there will be areas with a cold surface, and there will be no efficiency from the operation of a warm floor.
Furniture arrangement
It should not be located in those areas where massive furniture will subsequently stand. Under it there is no point in warming up. True, in the future, difficulties may arise if you want to make a permutation. After all, there may be places where the floor will not receive heat.
To avoid mistakes in laying the water heater, you should pay special attention to built-in furniture, monolithic shelving, kitchens, wardrobes, etc. All of them will definitely not require high-quality heating. Under them, you can forget about laying the pipeline.
When a warm floor is mounted under household appliances such as a refrigerator or a washing machine, the circuit may fail, there will be overheating of individual sections.
Danger in violations
Not everyone knows what problems can be encountered if errors are made in the installation of a warm water floor. When they heat poorly, you should think about possible shortcomings in the installation process.
When arranging uneven layers of the entire "pie" of the warm floor, the bending angle of the pipeline will be different. Therefore, the uniformity of heating the base of the floor cannot be achieved. Large costs await those who do not want to carry out preliminary calculations of the underfloor heating system. To do this, it is enough to schematically display the entire contour on a piece of paper on a scale. 