In this article:
In order for the house to be truly a fortress, reliable metal doors should block the entrance to it - protection from uninvited guests, cold winds and street noise. Entrance doors made of durable steel are a standard requirement that every inhabitant makes today for his own home.
Despite the fact that the competition in the entrance door market is quite high, you can still find a niche here: recently, the demand has grown not only for the quality and reliability of door panels, but also for a spectacular appearance (especially in elite new buildings, well-guarded entrances and cottage villages). ). Therefore, having thought over an interesting, stylish design and an assortment range of several models, you can enter the middle price niche on a par with branded manufacturers.
However, as practice shows, the decisive factor when buying from 80% of consumers is the price. Therefore, even "garage production" - with the help of hand tools and machine tools, is quite capable of making a profit in the shortest possible time, which will allow you to take a step to the next stage of business development.
- GOST 31173-2003 - Steel door blocks. Specifications;
- GOST 23118-99 Steel building structures;
- GOST 5089-97 - Locks and latches for doors. Specifications.
Steel door production equipment
1. Automatic lines
They are used in large factories with high productivity from 200 doors / day and more. The technological process is fully automated, it takes about 2 minutes to make one door leaf. High-precision technology ensures the same geometry of the product, the formation of profiles, drilling holes for fittings and connecting fasteners, painting the door leaf and filling internal voids - everything happens automatically, with minimal manual intervention.
The welding of the product is also automated, thanks to the use of special welding robots. Strong weld seam connections do not require additional manual cleaning and grinding.
Pros:
automated lines allow the production of 500-600 finished products per day with minimal risk of marriage.
Minuses: high price and maintenance costs (lines are made to order, the cost starts from 6 million rubles). For the full operation of such equipment, a large production area (from 1500 m 2) is required, where, in addition to the workshop itself, it is necessary to provide significant areas for storing raw materials and finished products.
2. Semi-automatic lines (using manual labor)
A set of equipment and machines for opening a partially automated production:
- Semi-automatic guillotine or metal cutting machine (plasma - Fig. 4, laser) - from 120,000 rubles;
- Press brake - 70,000 rubles;
- Welding machines (include spot welding, door panels, welding with tongs, final welding in carbon dioxide environment) - from 100,000 rubles. Can be replaced by conventional welding machines;
- Painting equipment (paint gun, compressor).
Rice. 4 (Plasma)
With this equipment, you can produce 15-20 doors per day. The required area of the premises is not less than 250 m 2 .
Pros: the cost is quite lifting for medium-sized businesses - the price of a semi-automatic line completely depends on the configuration (from 400,000 rubles). But some machines can be replaced with simpler equipment, which will significantly reduce the start-up capital, but increase the amount of manual labor and, accordingly, the cost of wages to workers.
Minuses: "human factor" - the less automation, the higher the number of defects. In addition, highly skilled craftsmen, trained to work both on machines and manually, will be required to ensure the correct implementation of the production technology at all its stages.
3. Manual labor and machine tools
Minimum set of equipment:
- Bulgarian;
- mechanical guillotine for cutting metal (Fig. 5);
- milling machine;
- lathe;
- auxiliary hand tool.
Pros: minimum costs for the purchase of equipment (from 60,000 rubles) and rental of premises (60-80 m 2).
Minuses: 2-3 doors a day is the maximum productivity for such equipment. Such a mini-production can only be focused on the low price segment. To avoid a large number of marriages, specialists who can work on metal are needed.
Workshop for the manufacture of metal doors
All the main processes of steel door manufacturing technology must be carried out in separate rooms. Therefore, the production area should provide:
- shop for acceptance and preparation of metal;
- workshop for processing steel sheets and rolled profiles;
- assembly and welding shop;
- paint shop;
- decorative and finishing (and if the finish is made directly at the enterprise, and not purchased ready-made, then a separate room for the technological line for its production) (Fig. 7);
- assembly and control shop;
- finished goods warehouse.
Of the special requirements - the presence of a fire safety system, finishing with non-combustible materials of walls and floors, good ventilation.
Technological process of production of metal doors
The manufacturing technology of a steel door includes a certain sequence of actions prescribed in a special document (technological or route map), indicating:
- requirements for the quality of materials;
- rules for their transportation, storage and acceptance;
- a sequential process of converting raw materials into a steel door block, painting and assembling it;
- a set of technical requirements for each process;
- quality control and verification methods;
- method of transportation, storage of finished products and other technical conditions (production specifications), which are compiled in accordance with the requirements of GOST 31173-2003.
The main stages of the technological process for the production of steel doors
1. Metal preparation
Before going to production, the metal is sorted. The marking, the presence of deformations after rolling or transportation is checked, corrosion and scale are removed. In the warehouse of raw materials and materials, rolled metal is stored stacked or on stable racks (at least 2.5 m high).
2. Marking and cutting blanks
The production of doors begins with cutting sheet metal according to the templates applied with the help of center punches and tracers. For cutting rolled metal use:
- mechanical equipment (guillotine shears, presses, saws);
- oxygen method (cutting on stationary machines with gas cutting or hand cutters);
- laser, plasma cutting.
3. Processing of workpieces
The profile for the door frame is made on bending equipment, where, under the pressure of a press, a metal plate is bent at the required angle.
It can be either a standard rectangular design or an arched model. In the second case, the arcuate profile of the upper part of the door is passed through a rolling machine to give the desired shape. After rolling, the profile is cut into the desired parts.
The blanks are sawn off - to eliminate irregularities and burrs, the top layer of metal is removed at the cutting points. Sawdust is performed manually, with the help of files or on special sawdust machines. After processing, the blanks are sent to a stamping machine, where holes of various diameters are punched for locks and fittings in accordance with the prepared maps. 
4. Assembly and welding
The assembly of the door leaf is carried out using resistance welding, which eliminates the deformation of the leaf and ensures the absence of welding seams. The sheets are welded to the frame, a 15-20 mm indent is left on the front side, which will serve as a vestibule. In the manufacture of metal doors, a multi-seam type of welding is used. The density of the fabric structure is achieved by installing special stiffeners.
Door locks are installed simultaneously with stiffeners, in places reinforced with metal plates (the so-called "technological pockets"). A non-combustible basalt slab is used between the door leafs as a sealant and sound insulator (alternative options: wood, mineral wool, glass wool, polyurethane foam, polypropylene).
Hinges are manually welded to the assembled door, observing the necessary gaps between the leaf and the door frame. The assembly is carried out according to several types (by marking, in conductors, by copiers) and is controlled at each stage for compliance with the geometry in order to correct the defect if necessary.
5. Treatment with paints and varnishes
After assembly, the door blank is sent for painting. The paint is applied to a cleaned, sanded and degreased surface using one of the following methods:
- jet douche;
- pneumatic spraying (Fig. 13);
- spraying in an electrostatic field.
Nitro, powder, graphite, hammer paint of various colors is used - this coating forms a good protection that protects the door from corrosion and light mechanical damage. After drying, the thickness of the applied layer is controlled and there are no visual defects - air bubbles, unpainted areas, cracks, streaks.
6. Sheathing with decorative elements
To give high wear resistance and an original decorative effect, an additional protective coating can be applied to the surface of the workpiece - molded or laminated finishing panels, which are manufactured at the enterprise by cutting (automatic or semi-automatic) according to ready-made templates or purchased in the form of blanks.
Types of skins:
- leather, leatherette, vinyl leather;
- wooden lining;
- chipboard;
- natural wood;
- thermal film plain or with imitation of wood of various species;
- forging elements;
- veneer.
7. Installation of locks, fittings, quality control of the finished product
Inserting fittings and checking locks is done manually. To avoid the characteristic knock of metal on metal when the door is closed, to enhance heat and sound insulation, a special shock-absorbing material is glued onto the door leaf - a rubber seal made of rubber or silicone.
To control the quality of the assembly and the tightness of the door leaf to the frame, the finished product is installed on a control stand. If all requirements are met, the door is packed and sent to the finished product warehouse.
Raw materials for making steel doors
There are two technologies for manufacturing steel doors:
- pipe-coal, using rolled pipes fastened by electric arc welding;
- profile bending - using bent rolled profiles.
Today, the second technology is most successfully used in production, where the raw materials for the manufacture of doors are finished sheets of metal. Many believe that the thicker the steel sheet in a metal door, the better. And this is not entirely true. Too heavy doors can lead to a lot of problems, for example, difficulty in opening / closing due to heavy weight, rapid wear of hinges due to high load. Therefore, 2 mm is the upper "bar" for standard apartment doors. Each additional millimeter adds about 8 kg of weight.
Required accessories:
- locks;
- loops;
- latches/latches;
- pens;
- additional (closers, eyes, clamps, blocking devices).
Business plan for the production of metal doors
1. It is planned to open a mini-factory for the production of steel entrance doors. The target group of consumers are construction companies and private households.
2. For the legal registration of business, an LLC was created on the general taxation system, indicating the following types of OKVED:
- 28.75.21 "Production of armored or reinforced safes, fireproof cabinets and doors";
- 45.25.4 "Installation of metal building structures".
For the production of metal doors and the provision of services for their installation, it is necessary to issue a license in accordance with SNiP 11-23-81. The cost of processing packages of documents and obtaining a license is about 35,000 rubles.
3. The production workshop is planned to be located on 100 m 2 of non-residential leased premises. Rental price - 15,000 rubles / month.
4. Costs for the purchase of equipment - 125,000 rubles:
- guillotine crank shears NK3418A;
- sheet bending mechanism MGL-2500;
- drilling machine 2116K;
- abrasive cutting machine;
- welding machine TDM-403;
- spray gun;
- Bulgarian;
- additional equipment (hand tools, racks, exhibition stand).
5. Calculation of the cost of 1 product - a metal door with a size of 2180 * 1040 mm.
- sheet steel 2mm - 0.098 t * 31,600 rubles = 3096.80 rubles;
- insulation (mineral wool) - 0.2 m 3 * 1475 rubles = 295 rubles.
- electrodes - 4 kg * 43 rubles = 172 rubles;
- mortise lock - 820 rubles;
- loops, handle, peephole - 550 rubles;
- cutting wheels, grinding wheels - 420 rubles;
- primer - 4 l * 87 rubles = 348 rubles;
- solvent - 2l * 210 rubles = 420 rubles;
- paint - 2 kg * 460 rubles = 960 rubles.
Total: 7081.80 rubles
6. Income from sales
It is planned to manufacture and install 3 doors per day with a 21-day working day. The selling price of the product is set by the method of conducting a comparative analysis of prices on the market and is equal to 12,500 rubles. Installation cost - 1200 rubles.
Projected revenue per month: 63 pieces * 13,700 rubles = 863,100 rubles / month.
Material costs - 63 pieces * 7081.8 rubles = 446 153.4 rubles / month.
7. Other costs of doing business:
- rent - 15,000 rubles;
- electricity - 1200 rubles;
- depreciation of fixed assets - 5750 rubles;
- advertising - 15,000 rubles;
- staff salary (director, 5 workers and a sales manager) - 65,000 rubles;
- payroll taxes -24,375 rubles;
- income tax - 58,124.32 rubles.
Total: 184,449.32 rubles / month.
8. Financial results
Net profit: 863,100 rubles - 446,153.4 rubles - 184,449.32 rubles = 232,497.28 rubles / month.
The initial investment (equipment + license + material costs for 1 month of work + other costs) will pay off in 4 months of work.
The Chinese-made armored doors on the market in most cases only look effective. They are made from thin sheet metal, which rarely exceeds 0.8 mm in thickness, and can be opened with a can opener. Therefore, if you need a really strong and reliable design, it is advisable both from an economic point of view and in terms of efficiency to make it yourself.
Preparation of materials
Before starting work, it is necessary to measure the doorway and sketch out a schematic drawing of the structure. With a standard width (800-900 mm), the door can be made single, and with a wider opening, it is advisable to manufacture a prefabricated frame - an additional sash is added to the side.
A metal door consists of 3 main components:
For the manufacture of a welded door, the following materials are needed (the quantity is determined by the overall dimensions of the structure):
- Corner 50 × 50 × 5 mm - for the door frame.
- A profile square pipe 50 × 50 and a thickness of at least 2 m (you can use a corner of the appropriate size) - for the frame.
- Metal sheet with a thickness of 2 to 5 mm - for the canvas.
- Steel hinges (2-3 pieces) - the number depends on the weight of the door.
- Insulation - foam or mineral wool.
- Lock.
- Material for decorative sheathing (at the discretion of the owner) - plywood, lining, veneer, plastic panels, etc.
- Consumables - electrodes (selected depending on the steel used, diameter up to 3.0 mm), grinder discs, drills.
Step by step production of a door frame
The dimensions of the box should be smaller than the opening - a gap of 20 mm is provided between the ends of the walls and the structure. This will allow you to adjust the position of the door and avoid distortion during its installation.
Taking into account these gaps, corners are cut and laid out in a rectangular structure on a flat plane (welding table or goats pre-calibrated for flatness).
The corners of the box must be equal to 90 ° - checked with a carpenter's corner and measuring the length of the diagonals. The structure is welded and the subsequent cleaning of the welds is flush with the surface of the corners (for a snug fit of the door leaf).
Door assembly and welding
Taking into account the dimensions of the box, blanks are prepared from a square pipe for the manufacture of a frame. Clearances between frame and door frame:
- top and bottom - 10 mm each;
- from the side of the canopies - 5-7 mm;
- from the side of the lock - 6-8 mm.
As a result, the frame should be smaller than the internal dimensions of the box by 20 mm in height and 11-15 mm in width.
Step-by-step technology for manufacturing a door leaf:
- The cut profile is laid out inside the box, the gaps are fixed (improvised materials are used - plates, discs for grinders or wood chips of appropriate thickness) and the diagonals are checked.
- In one of the side profiles, a cutout is made for installing the lock.
- If the diagonals match, the frame is welded and the seams are cleaned.
- The frame with the box is attached to each other around the perimeter in 4-6 places.
- Marking and cutting of metal sheet. It is necessary to provide an overlap on the box of 10-15 mm, and from the side of the canopies - 5 mm. Taking into account the gaps between the frame and the box, these values will be - 20-25 mm on the sides and 10-12 mm on the side of the hinges.
- A box with a frame is laid and aligned on top of the metal sheet.
- Welding - performed by separate seams (length within 40 mm, distance about 200 mm) staggered from the middle to the edges alternately from different sides of the door leaf. This will prevent possible deformation of the sheet and the structure as a whole.
- To increase the rigidity of the structure, horizontal and vertical profile blanks of a certain length are welded. In order to facilitate the decorative trim of the door, wooden bars can be hammered into the frame and fixed.
Welding of door canopies and installation of the lock
Before installing the hinges, the structure is turned over - the steel sheet should be on top. When installing canopies, it is important to observe their alignment. The hinges are welded to the sheet and to the box. The tacks, with which the box and frame were connected, are cut off by a grinder. The door opens and the awnings are scalded from the inside.
After that, all welds are carefully cleaned, and the structure is painted. This will protect the metal from corrosion, so painting should be done whether or not a decorative finish is applied.
Places for the keyhole and handle are marked on the door leaf, drilling is performed. Mounting holes are drilled, threads are cut with a tap, and the lock is bolted.
Also at this stage, you can prepare a hole for the eye. It is drilled through a vertical profile in the middle of the door or shifted slightly to the side and the opening is made only in the leaf.
Installation of metal doors
Mounting plates are being prepared (6-10 pcs.) - can be made from the remaining scraps of the sheet that was used for the door leaf. Parts are welded to the box.
Installation steps:
- The horizontal and vertical of the door frame is aligned. Fixation is made with wooden wedges.
- The level of the doors is again controlled.
- Holes up to 150 mm deep are drilled in the mounting plates and in the wall for anchor bolts.
- The top anchor is hammered in first on the side of the box where the hinges are.
- Once again, the level of the location is checked, if necessary, the structure is trimmed.
- The bottom anchor is hammered in next, and the middle one last.
- The fastening of the feigned part is carried out in the same sequence.
- Hanging metal doors.
- The gaps between the wall and the box are filled with construction foam.
After installation, you can proceed to the insulation of doors and finishing with selected materials.
Doors made of metal are made using different technologies, albeit according to a single principle. And you need to figure it out. Only in this case, you can choose the optimal model, not focusing only on the advice of consultants in stores. Here is the basic information about the production of doors. Information and samples for the article were provided by the company for the production of steel doors "T-Stal".
Equipment and materials
Sheet steel, profiles or corners of various sizes and thicknesses, a set of accessories (door fittings: hinges, handles, locks, eyes, etc.) are used as materials. The quality of a door depends both on the strength and thickness of the steel, and on the quality of the fittings (first of all, locking mechanisms).
Materials are processed on equipment of various types:
- Automated. Such equipment is used by enterprises that produce more than 200 doors per shift.
- semi-automatic. These are cutting machines, welding machines, press brakes, spray booths. In semi-automatic production, the reject rate is lower, but the productivity is also lower - up to 17-20 products on one line.
- Mechanical. This is a set of hand tools: a grinder, turning and milling machines, a special guillotine, etc. Such equipment is rarely used. In enterprises, semi-automatic machines are more often preferred.
Automated lines allow you to produce more products per day, thereby reducing its cost. However, the percentage of defects in such enterprises is high, and with inadequate quality control, the buyer may reveal defects.
Production process
Conventionally, the production of metal doors can be divided into four stages.
- At the first stage, a box and a canvas are made. The box is the outer part of the product, which is subsequently inserted into the doorway, and on which the canvas itself is hung. They make it from the corner. The corners are welded or bent. The leaf is that part of the door in which the lock is installed, and which performs protective functions. It is made in this way: a frame is created from a corner (stiffening ribs can be used), then a sheet of steel is welded to the frame on one or both sides.
- At the second stage, hinges are installed on the box and the canvas, carefully checking the mounting points. Holes are made in the canvas and corners for fittings and a lock.
- At the third stage, the product goes to the spray booth, where it is processed. Processing is needed for any metal doors, regardless of what finish will be used in the future.
- At the fourth stage, fittings are installed and the canvas is trimmed from the inside and outside. During the finishing process, the door can be insulated and seals installed.
The finished product is packed and sent to the warehouse, and then for sale.
Doors are made to order in approximately the same way, however, the dimensions and sketch of the customer are used here.
How to choose a door
Appearance, the brand of the door and fittings, the number of locks - that's not all you need to pay attention to. Be sure to check out:
- How thick was the steel used for the door leaf. Too thin canvas will break through even with a knife, and too thick will make the door heavy.
- What is the thickness of the steel in the corners that were used for the frame and box. The strength of the structure depends on this.
- Were seals used, and was there any insulation. A door without these elements will freeze through in winter and let in sounds. You can’t put it in an apartment or in a private house.
As you can see, it is enough to know the basics of door production technology in order to choose the right model.
Do you need a normal iron door, but the prices on the market “bite”? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's take a look at how a metal door is made with our own hands, starting with preparing a tool, purchasing material and sketching a sketch, and ending with insulation and a fine finish.
Making an iron door yourself is quite realistic.
Making a metal door with your own hands for an amateur is a very real task, but there is one caveat: you must work freely as a grinder and own a welding machine at least at the initial level. But before you make the door itself, you need to prepare the tool and material.
Tool selection
- Bulgarian;
- Welding machine;
- Screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
- Electric drill with impact function or hammer drill;
- Round "bastard" file;
- A hammer;
- Roulette;
- Kern;
- Level (preferably 1.5 m);
- Square.
Home craft tool.
In addition, you will need a variety of accessories for power tools. This refers to discs for a grinder for metal, a cord brush for a grinder, drills for a drill, emery and other small things without which it is impossible to make a metal door with your own hands.
Purchase of material for the manufacture of a metal door
For iron doors you need to buy:
- Metal sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 mm;
- Profiled pipe 40x20 mm - at least 7 - 8 m;
- Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
- Strip 40x4 mm - 2 m;
- Loops are ordinary father-mother or articulated - 2 pcs.
If you do not have much experience in welding work, then it is better to take a thicker sheet for front doors, at least at least 2 mm, and preferably 3 mm. Welding of metal doors the matter is not particularly difficult, but a thin sheet is very easy to burn through.
Material for metal doors
You will also need a good flat table or some kind of goats, it is very difficult to make a metal door on the ground, and for a novice master it is not realistic at all.
Making a sketch
Professional drawings for standard iron doors can now be found, but the problem is that these documents were made in accordance with GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide openings).
Professional drawing for a door welded from metal
The entrance metal door in an apartment or a private house does not always meet the standard, so it is better to draw up a sketch. Otherwise, on a non-standard opening, you will either have to cut out part of the slope, or somehow close up the gap next to the door.
An example of a sketch for a non-standard iron door.
Since we are already making an iron door with our own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch, you need to take into account some tolerances, they are shown below in an example:
- The starting dimensions of the doorway are 216x90 cm;
- It is impossible to make a frame (loot) close to the walls, since there will be nowhere to fill in the mounting foam, therefore, along the upper edge we leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 5 mm thickness of the corner;
- At the bottom we make a small threshold, respectively, 25 mm from the corner will be cut off, the total remains 212 cm frame height along the inner perimeter;
- On the sides, we also leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 10 mm is the thickness of the metal in 2 corners, the total width of the internal opening is 87 cm;
- The steel door itself, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the loot, if the house starts to “walk” and the loot moves a little, then the canvas will jam. Therefore, we leave a gap of 5 mm along the outer perimeter, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
- We take a larger sheet (90x215 cm), as it will overlap with part of the loot.
The tool was prepared, the material was bought, the sketch was made, now you can start building iron doors with your own hands.
Seven stages of steel door assembly
You can make metal doors with your own hands only from a corner or only from a profiled pipe, but the mixed version is more reliable and practical. It is better to weld the outer frame (chute) from a corner of 50x50 mm, and the frame for the door leaf from a profiled pipe 40x20 mm.
Stage number 1. We weld the loot
First of all, we cut off the corners according to the scheme and fix them on the desktop or goats with clamps. It is important here that the bottom plane is even, and the corners are connected at 90º. We check the rectangle of the box along the diagonals, if they are the same, then the corners will be right.
Fixing the frame with clamps.
It’s not worth scalding the corners right away, they can lead, first we grab at several points and again measure the diagonals until everything is boiled, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.
Spot grip.
When scalding corners, first we apply all vertical seams, and then move on to horizontal ones, so the metal will overheat less. We will cut out the extra part of the corner later.
Corner welding.
Now we turn the frame over and check the plane with a long level or any even standard. There should not be any distortions and bends.
Checking the plane of the frame.
We boil the outer joints and immediately grind these seams with a grinder.
Welding of external seams.
As shown in the photo above, we still have a piece of the corner not cut out from the inside, it needs to be removed, as it will interfere with installation. To do this, turn the frame over again and cut out the extra parts with a grinder. Lootka is ready, now you can move on to the frame for the iron door.
Cut out the excess parts.
Stage number 2. Frame for the door leaf
When cutting profiled pipes under the frame of the door leaf, first measure all the long parts, and then cut out the short ones from the remnants. Otherwise, you may not guess even then, large vertical racks will have to be welded from pieces.
It is better to make a slot under the lock immediately. To do this, we measure 1 m from the bottom of the rack and make 2 vertical cuts along the dimensions of the lock, and cut this strip obliquely in the middle. To make it easier to break the pieces, we make small cuts on them, the arrows in the photo indicate these cuts.
Primary fitting of the castle.
In order for the frame of the door leaf to clearly fall into place, we fix the profiled pipes with clamps on the inside of the loot. Do not forget: there should be a gap of 5 mm between the profiled pipe and the corner, for this we insert gaskets. As gaskets, you can use the same trimmings of the corner.
Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.
Here it is important how to put profiled pipes, any such pipe has a welded seam, and so, this seam should “look” inside the canvas.
Welded seam of profiled pipe.
When constructing a frame for a door leaf, it is no longer necessary to check the diagonals, since we are “attached” to the outer frame. The corners are welded by analogy with a loot, that is, we grab at several points, and then weld the joints from the center to the edges.
Welding the corners of the door frame.
Here, while the frame is in the loot, we weld the transverse stiffeners, they are made of a profiled pipe.
Fastening ribs.
Now we remove the clamps, remove the outer frame and weld the ends of the joints in the corners, after which we grind all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and burns easily.
Grinding welded seams from the outside is mandatory.
Always control where you have the top, bottom, hinges and lock. At this stage it is very easy to confuse and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.
Stage number 3. Sheet fastening
First we need to cut the sheet to size. From the frame of the door leaf, to the edge of the sheet, we leave 20 mm (5 mm for the gap, plus 15 mm for the overlap of the loot). To cut the sheet exactly according to the markup, you can use a profiled pipe, just fasten it with clamps and cut it with a grinder along the edge.
Standard for cutting a sheet with a grinder.
We put the door frame on the cut sheet, check that the overlap is clearly observed everywhere and spot-weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (a step of about 100 - 150 mm). To prevent the frame from moving during welding, it can be fixed with clamps.
Grab the frame not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: they welded one point, then switched to the opposite one, and so on until everything is scalded. Otherwise, the design may lead.
Spot welding door leaf.
Stage number 4. How to weld hinges
| Illustrations | Recommendations |
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Canopies we buy usual, such as father-mother (dad with a pin). Before installation, canopies must be lubricated immediately. |
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From the edge of the canvas to the canopies there should be 20 - 25 cm, both above and below. |
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The canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening. |
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The canopy is set so that when viewed from above, there is a gap of 1 - 2 mm between it and the sheet. |
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Before how to cook construction, place a gasket under the sheet (a piece of the same sheet). The gap is for the rubber seal. |
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We weld the awnings. |
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To keep the canopy more secure, you can weld a metal plate with an overlap on the canvas frame, but this is more a recommendation than a rule. |
Stage number 5. We cut the lock
The lock has already been inserted into the door frame, now you need to try on and mark the places of cuts in the loot.
Marking for holes in the corner.
We drill holes for the keyhole with a large drill, after which we bring it to the desired size with a round bastard file.
Keyhole hole.
The holes in the corner for the lock itself are cut out by a grinder and also processed with a file. It is advisable to close the lock bolts from the inside with a metal casing, it can be made from a profiled pipe or corner, the casing must be welded.
Cover to protect the bolts of the lock.
Now it remains to try on the overlay on made earlier holes and you can proceed to facing work.
Installing the padlock.
Stage number 6. Facing and insulation
It is cheaper and best to insulate iron doors with polystyrene, as a rule, PSB-S-25 plates 40 mm thick are taken. The plate is cut out a little less than the opening, and the gap is then blown out with mounting foam.
Insulation of entrance doors with foam plastic.
It is not necessary to insulate entrance doors with mineral wool. The fact is that any cotton wool is afraid of moisture and sits down after getting wet, so after a couple of years such a heater will stop working.
From the inside, the structure can be sheathed with any plate you like, from OSB to laminated MDF.
Laminated MDF door trims.
You can also read a more detailed article on the insulation of metal doors -.
The outer front of the doors can also be finished with a laminated board, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal with hammer paint, this is done like this:
- All metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord nozzle on a grinder);
- The structure is degreased with acetone or gasoline;
- The metal is covered with primer under the previously selected hammer paint;
- 2-3 layers of paint are applied with a brush, roller or spray gun.
Painting iron doors with hammer paint.
Stage number 7. Installation of metal doors
To fix the iron doors, you must first weld on the perimeter of the loot a kind of shanks from a strip of 40x4 mm.
Shanks for fixing iron doors.
The design is installed in the following sequence:
- Insert the loot into the doorway;
- With a perforator, drill blind holes in the slopes through the shanks;
- Then you can hammer metal crutches or fix the structure with anchor bolts;
- Hang the door leaf;
- Blow out the gaps around the perimeter of the loot with mounting foam;
- The door is installed, now it remains to cut off the excess dried foam and equip the slopes.
This is how an iron door is installed with your own hands.
Conclusion
As you can see, at home “production”, without professional schemes and expensive equipment, a good iron door was assembled by hand and it cost about half as much as the factory counterpart.
With good decor, a homemade door will look no worse than a factory one.
A high-quality door serves to protect your home from intruders, and therefore must have high burglary resistance. Door system developers are constantly improving production technology, using a combination of new structural elements and materials in order to meet this requirement.
Door materials
The steel structure consists of many elements made of metal with different characteristics. The choice of metal for certain elements is carried out based on the design features of the system.
Door leaf
The door leaf of modern steel structures is manufactured using frame technology.
Frame material
The frame is formed from profiled rolled products by welding. To create the frame, various types of profiles are used, from the most unreliable stamped thin-walled angle to modern hot-rolled square pipes.
Door trim materials
Finishing materials today are very widely represented. They differ both in terms of performance and price. The most accessible materials for finishing doors are MDF panels with lamination, veneering, anti-vandal plastic; vinyl leather and powder coating. Viniliskin, as a material for upholstery of doors on the inside and outside, is used mainly in the simplest budget designs.
Elite metal doors are decorated with an array of precious woods or a combination of solid wood with elements of artistic forging, stained glass and glass inserts.
Door frames
Platbands are selected based on the main decor of the door structure. Often these elements are mounted on a specially designed metal base welded to the door frame. This combination provides not only aesthetics, but also safety. Steel platbands perform protective functions, blocking intruders' access to mounting anchor ties.