Being engaged in facing the facades of a country house, it is worth thinking about the above-ground part of the foundation, which initially looks like a simple concrete wall. The gap under the building erected on newfangled screw piles looks just as ugly. Hence the task of our article is to consider what materials are used to finish the basement of a private house and how it is better to sheathe it in certain conditions.
The role of the basement lining of a private house
We have already mentioned improving the external design with the help of an external finishing layer. But in addition to decorative, it also performs other important functions:
- extending the service life of the concrete base by protecting it from moisture, direct sunlight and sudden changes in temperature;
- the skin takes on pollution and a variety of mechanical damage;
- protects reinforced concrete from damage by microorganisms - fungi and mold;
- in the case of a pile foundation, it closes the gap between the house and the ground so that the wind does not walk along it.
Before finishing the basement from the outside, it must be insulated, these are the requirements of building codes. Thermal insulation is carried out with polymeric water-repellent materials - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam spraying. After that, the insulation layer is decorated on the outside with a facing material.
Note. There are special thermal panels for finishing the basement, which have a heat-insulating layer, which will be discussed later.
- The entire foundation is subject to insulation - both above-ground and underground parts to the depth of soil freezing.
- If the construction of the house is completed, then you need to make thermal insulation of the basement with a blind area, this is a cheaper option.
- It makes no sense to insulate only the basement, since the cold will penetrate the building through the ground.
- External insulation can be omitted if the floors in the entire cottage are well insulated, although additional protection will be useful.
Finishing materials
There are quite a few options for how to finish the basement of a private house:
- smooth or embossed plaster;
- natural or artificial stone, tiles;
- clinker and other decorative bricks;
- plastic or metal siding;
- a variety of panels with and without a heat-insulating layer.
Now let's look at each option in more detail.
Application of plaster
This is one of the inexpensive ways to finish the foundation, which is used in houses without special requirements for external design. In addition to low cost, plastering provides such advantages:
- The mortar layer is characterized by good vapor permeability, and therefore it is successfully applied both to the concrete surface and to the polymer insulation.
- The ease of doing plaster work allows you to save more money if you do everything yourself.
- Such cladding can be quickly and inexpensively decorated with any color and given a different texture - from a small “fur coat” to imitation of a wild stone, as shown in the photo.
- Modern plasters are easily tinted in the required color, which saves you from painting work once every 3-5 years.
Reference. The technology of applying plaster is quite simple. For example, a "fur coat" from a liquid solution is thrown in a thin layer on a moistened base, and the bark beetle is superimposed and leveled with a rule. Imitation of natural stone is done by hand with a mixture of thick consistency.
The negative side of plaster coatings is a limited service life. From the effects of weather conditions and temperature differences, it gradually crumbles, cracks and even breaks off. High-quality plastering will last without problems for about 5 years, and after that it needs periodic repairs. Moment two: for obvious reasons, this method is not applicable to buildings on pile foundations.
Stone cladding - pros and cons
To improve the basement of the house, the following types of natural stone are used:
- shell rock;
- limestone;
- sandstone;
- gray and black granite, marble;
- labradorite
This is what granite veneer looks like.
Flagstone with polished or chipped edges, cut from rocks, is able to serve throughout the entire life of the building. This finish does not lose its excellent appearance for many years, and also does not require maintenance and repair. These are positive aspects, but there are also negative ones:
- The high cost of processed natural stone.
- Facing the base with your own hands will not work, you will have to involve specialists, and these are additional costs.
- Due to the decent weight, the material noticeably loads the foundation.
Imitation sandstone
You can give the cottage an elite appearance at a lower price if you finish the basement walls with artificial stone products - fiber cement or porcelain stoneware tiles. They are produced on the basis of cement mixtures with various additives by casting in silicone molds and successfully imitate any rocks. Artificial stone is not inferior to natural stone in terms of durability, and it weighs less. But for laying tiles on the mortar, experience and qualifications are still required, plus labor costs for leveling the surface. All the nuances are described in the video:
Reference. Some manufacturers (for example, the Canyon brand) offer products with metal brackets, fixed on self-tapping screws to a wooden frame or directly to the wall. So, if you wish, you can mount the plinth trim yourself.
About brickwork
The benefits of traditional brick cladding are well known to homeowners who have used this method. In terms of durability and respectable appearance, masonry is practically not inferior to stone walls, but has the following features:
- To overlay the base with a full-sized brick, you need to arrange a reliable foundation for it. This will not be a problem if such a finish was foreseen in advance and the width of the foundation tape allows you to build a half-brick wall on it. Another option is the device of a full-fledged blind area associated with the base of the house with reinforcement.
- The brick lining of the basement makes it possible to organize an air gap or lay a heater in the wall.
- If you do not use cheap silicate varieties, then the masonry itself will serve as good insulation.
- To build a facing wall from decorative stamps laid out “into the wasteland”, you will have to attract a master bricklayer or train yourself for a long time.
Note. To reduce the cost of finishing the basement, clinker tiles can be used instead of bricks. The technology of laying on the adhesive mixture is similar to porcelain stoneware sheathing.
At the cost of construction, this method outperforms stone cladding, but it will cost more than installing artificial tiles. In addition, for the protruding front wall, you will need a wide ebb around the perimeter of the building.
siding sheathing
Metal and plastic plinth sidings can please every homeowner both in terms of price and variety of colors and textures. They are offered as strips and panels of various shapes, mounted on a frame made of wood or steel profiles. In addition to an affordable price, the material has the following advantages:
- Quick and easy installation, thanks to which the owner is able to sheathe the base with siding himself.
- Remarkable appearance of a private house.
- Since the cladding is mounted on a subsystem, a heater of the required thickness is calmly laid under it.
- In case of mechanical damage, damaged elements are easy to replace.
Reference. Sometimes a budget material is used as a siding - a wall profiled sheet. It is equally well suited for decorating small country houses, building fences and light gates.
Inexpensive types of cladding are not ideal. But siding has not so many disadvantages:
- vinyl sheathing is prone to burning, and the highest quality - melting from heating;
- polymer painting of metal panels and corrugated board quickly fades in the sun;
- after 5-10 years (depending on the quality of the products), the appearance of the material deteriorates;
- siding must be periodically washed from dust and dirt;
- accidental mechanical damage leaves scratches on painted metal, and plastic can break from shock loading.
Despite these disadvantages, wall and basement siding does not lose popularity. In addition, it is excellent for sewing up the cavities of pile-screw foundations. Read on how to properly install, and the following video will introduce you to the sheathing process:
Advantages of finishing panels
Since the characteristics and installation method of plastic panels differ little from vinyl siding, we suggest paying attention to other types of products:
- two-layer thermal panels, where polystyrene insulation is glued to an artificial stone base;
- fiber cement products similar to Japanese cladding from the Kmew brand.
The presented finishing materials for the plinth combine the positive aspects of stone and PVC panels, plus they have an acceptable cost. This is a long service life, a wonderful appearance and simplified with or without a frame.
Thermal panels imitating stone and brickwork are equipped with a heat-insulating layer made of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Fastening is carried out through special hidden holes, and almost seamless docking is ensured by a perfect locking system. In the same way, fiber cement panels that do not have insulation are installed. For more information on installation, see the video:
Note. Both types of cladding can be used in houses installed on a pile foundation.
From the above, the following conclusions can be drawn:
- In most cases, the choice of material depends on the size of the budget allocated for construction. An exception is pile foundations, where it is impossible to use the entire range of facing products.
- Even with the availability of funds, it is not advisable to finish the basement with marble, granite and other varieties of expensive flagstone. There are substitutes - panels and clinker tiles that are not inferior in appearance and service life, which are cheaper and do not load the foundation.
- The use of decorative bricks is justified when the width of the foundation tape is designed for masonry. In other cases, it is easier and cheaper to sheathe the basement wall with any imitation of brick.
Of the cheap options for the plinth, panels and siding made from non-combustible materials are most suitable. The experience of modern construction shows that the burnout of the facades of buildings occurs due to an incorrectly selected finish of the basement, which ignites from a cigarette butt thrown nearby.
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The plinth is the part of the foundation that rises above ground level. Therefore, the same requirements are imposed on its finish as on the entire base. It consists of a whole range of activities - the arrangement of the blind area, preliminary plastering (not always), waterproofing and a number of others. The nuances are determined by the characteristics of each structure and local conditions.
But when all the work is completed, the question arises - how to presentably finish the basement? It is desirable that it is beautiful, and not too expensive and complicated. There are more than enough materials for finishing the basement. But the price of some products is such that not everyone is able to "lay out" that kind of money. In addition, the installation of some products requires experience, special equipment, which is also associated with additional costs. And from this point of view, there are not so many options for inexpensive finishes.
Plaster
This design is suitable for buildings erected from almost any material (cellular concrete, brick, and so on), with the exception of wood, since it is unlikely that the plastered foundation will be in harmony with it.
pros
Minuses
- Insufficient strength and, as a result, a short operational period.
- The need for frequent renewal of the paintwork (in the case of surface application of the composition).
- The complexity of care. It is quite problematic to wash pieces of dirt that has got in - basically, only “dry” cleaning. In terms of maintenance, decorative plaster mixtures are preferable, but they are quite expensive.
Finishing Features
There is another opinion - to paint "on top", since such a treatment will clog all pores and prevent moisture from penetrating. But the question arises - what about vapor permeability? If there is a basement, and even intensively used, the question is important.
Siding panels
Naturally, this does not mean all that are commercially available, but only those that are designed specifically for the base. By the way, they can also decorate walls.
pros
- Durability and reliability of facing. It protects the base well.
- Care is not difficult - the panels are easy to clean.
- The ability to quickly replace a damaged product.
Minuses
Finishing Features
- The crate is pre-installed. Since the plinth is finished outside the building, it is advisable to use a metal profile as rails, and not wood - it is subject to decay.
- It is necessary to ensure the sealing of all joints, as well as correctly calculate and maintain the necessary gaps (in case of thermal deformation of products).
Stone (artificial)
In principle, the method is also relatively inexpensive and effective if the type of product is chosen correctly (temperature of use, strength, and so on).
pros
- Artificial stone is easy to make at home -. This will slightly increase the time for the production of work, but significantly reduce their total cost.
- Variety of cladding options (appearance).
- Durability, long service life.
- Good maintainability.
- Light weight and easy to mount. Artificial stone can simply be glued to the base.
Minuses
Finishing Features
Much depends on the material on which the imitation of natural stone is made. Practice shows that not everyone will be able to independently perform such work - finishing. Most likely, you will have to pay for someone's services.
It makes no sense to compare materials at prices. They depend on so many factors that it is simply impossible to take into account everything. We must not forget a simple truth - it is not always possible to put an equal sign between the concepts of "cheap" and "quality".
Conclusion
Plastering the plinth - the most economical option which does not require the involvement of professionals. But if financial possibilities allow, then it is better to stop at the 2nd or 3rd options.
- If the house is built on a pile foundation, then a supporting frame is pre-mounted, which is sheathed with any material. The main requirement for it is moisture resistance.
- When calculating the cost of work, it is necessary to look not only at the price of the material, but also take into account what the costs of its installation will cost. In addition, an important factor is the service life. It is wiser to buy a product for decoration that is more expensive and durable than to regularly repair the lining of the basement and at the same time spend money again.
panel cladding
The grillage after its erection in all cases of construction should be covered with protective materials. There are a large number of them. All of them have their own disadvantages and advantages.
List of the most commonly used materials:
- A natural stone. Its main advantage is a beautiful aesthetic appearance. Minus - high cost.
- Fake diamond. Plus - reliable and there are a lot of options for colors and textures.
- Panel cladding. Plus - the speed of installation work.
- Plaster. Has a lot of advantages. Of the minuses - working with this type of material becomes more painstaking.
What material to choose
- From a wide variety of finishing materials, it is sometimes not very easy to choose what exactly is needed. When choosing, you should rely on the quality characteristics of the finish, its features, design and color. For example, clinker tiles create an imitation of brickwork. The advantage of such a tile is that it is light in weight, due to which it is securely attached to the base.
- Its parameters exactly match those of real clinker bricks. Clinker tiles have elements specially designed for facing the corners of a building. Additional impregnation with a water-repellent solution is not required for such masonry.
- For any type of stone finish, it will be necessary to make a cornice over the resulting masonry. This is necessary due to the fact that the stone finish, whether artificial or natural, will protrude forward a certain distance. Therefore, so that it does not wear out ahead of time, they make additional protection.
- Undoubtedly, natural stone will decorate the house and give it special features. There are different textures (rough, smooth, rubble), colors (matte, glossy, shiny), design (regular or irregular shape). Artificial stone is also not inferior to natural. There are also a lot of his design and color solutions.
- Polymer sandstone tiles are suitable for lightweight structures, which do not have very high strength indicators. Such a tile is somewhat similar to a brick, but its shape can even be abstract. Polymer sandstone does not require complex installation work, as well as a lot of maintenance. It is frost and moisture resistant.
There are also many other materials, such as plaster, siding, panels. In addition, there is a wide variety of synthetic tiles that combine the properties of several types at the same time.
A natural stone
There are several types of stones that are actively used in the finishing of the grillage:
- Granite.
- Marble.
- Shungite.
- Slate. This stone is very layered.
- Sandstone. It has a light fragile structure.
- Dolomite. This mineral has a high density, and therefore is very durable.
- Crimean limestone.
Natural stones are used in small thicknesses. More often no more than 3 cm. Of course, the natural finish looks rich and beautiful. In general, natural materials are more expensive than artificial ones. Of the other disadvantages, it can be noted that they collect moisture on themselves. To protect the "foot" of the building, you will have to additionally cover it with a water-repellent solution.
The main advantages of stone: durability, strength and environmental friendliness. Also, the stone is resistant to temperature changes. But in order for this material to justify itself, it must be applied correctly. For example, for stone, glue is used that is intended only for stone surfaces. If you use another, it can damage the structure of the natural material.
Fake diamond
Artificial stone is obtained by mixing cement, sand, stone chips and adding, if necessary, a dye or other components.
The undeniable advantages of artificial material:
- Resistant to cold and high temperatures.
- Moisture repellent properties.
- Good heat conductivity.
- Environmental friendliness of materials.
Brick cladding is also a good finishing option. It is also resistant to weather changes, and it is not afraid of mechanical damage. In addition, the brick can act as an additional layer of thermal insulation. Thus, artificial finishing is relevant and has many advantages.
Panels
As for the special panels for the plinth, they are suitable if the work needs to be done very quickly. Precisely because they are lightweight and easy to use, plastic panels are a great option for quick installation.
In addition, PVC panels have all the necessary characteristics that were listed above. Thanks to various variations, it is possible to create an imitation of brickwork, a wooden surface or even an imitation of plaster using panels. Siding is a good protective layer and additional reinforcement of the base of the house.
Pre-siding panels require the creation of a grillage crate, either metal or wood. Further, at the very bottom, a profile is attached, from which the entire plastic row comes. Between themselves, the panels are attached using an impromptu lock.
Plaster
Plastering is the most popular type of finish.
This type of finishing materials has a number of advantages:
- The plastering workflow requires tools such as spatulas, levels, mortar containers, and so on.
- Plaster involves a lot of different options for colors and compositions. Thanks to this, you can achieve the most incredible textures and imitations.
- The plaster can be applied directly to the thermal insulation. No preliminary work is required.
- This material has such an important property as vapor permeability. It allows you to maintain an optimal "climate" inside the building.
- Relatively low price of the material.
Cost of materials
The most budget option is plaster. The most expensive cladding is natural stone. If we talk about other types of finishes, then here the price is set for 1 kg and 1 m 2. For example, 1 m 2 of siding for a grillage costs an average of about 500 rubles, maybe a little more or less.
All work on the arrangement of the grillage is calculated depending on 1 m2, or rather, how much and at what cost the material goes to this area and the amount of labor costs.
Thus, finishing the lowest part of the building involves various types of work, depending on the material chosen. Before starting installation, it is necessary to prepare the concrete surface. It should be thoroughly cleaned and, if there are all kinds of depressions, cracks or bulges, then eliminate them.
It is also worth paying attention to the choice of glue. For tiles, stone or other material, it is selected individually. Indeed, the reliability of fastening and the durability of the facing coating will depend on the correctly selected adhesive. In terms of caring for the base of the house, one can consider careful attitude to it, the presence of cornices, timely removed snow, and so on.
Important requirements
The basement, like any other part of the house, has certain requirements:
- The basement, or grillage in another way, must be filled with a high-class brand of concrete. After all, this element will take on a large load from the weight of the house and its contents.
- For facing this part of the house you need to use very durable materials. They must protect it from bad weather and mechanical impact.
- The recommended height of the foundation platform should be at least 30 cm. Such an elevation above the ground will help protect the masonry from rain splashes.
What is the basement masonry afraid of:
- Moisture from the ground as a result of splashes from the rain.
- Snowdrifts.
- Freezing. The frozen water expands the concrete from the inside.
- Ultraviolet. May cause cracking and peeling.
- Mechanical impact (blows).
The decoration of the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The plinth can be in harmony or contrast with the overall design of the building in terms of tone, texture, and type of material used, see fig. Corrosive pedants just need to point to the Erechtheion, the Roman baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.
For small individual construction, the false plinth option is also of particular interest (photo below on the right in the figure): the tape protruding foundation is finished without any pretensions, if only for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high plinth. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place of the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the plinth (foundation protrusion); in particular on the ebb device, see below, without compromising the appearance of the house.
On the other hand, the lining of the plinth is exposed to intense chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, soil organic matter), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components in the air depend on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground fall relative to the zero height of the building by 10 or more times. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the basement and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.
On the third, finishing the basement with stone or other durable, resistant and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because. the height of the plinth, as a rule, does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the base itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not carry weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for lining the plinth can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.
Work order
The basement of a residential building is faced in the order of production of the final stage of construction - exterior decoration. In general, the finishing of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:
- A trench is digging under the blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on the bayonet of a shovel) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
- A sand and gravel cushion is laid in the trench, optionally also a heater;
- A rough finish of the basement is carried out in order to level its surface;
- A blind area is being arranged;
- Decorative finishing of the plinth is made;
- Only after that, all other work on the exterior of the building begins, incl. facade cladding.
It is not recommended to break this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, this is possible, for example. if the plinth of an existing building is revetted or repaired. In this case, the design of the plinth plays a decisive role for the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.
Plinth and tide
Finishing the basement of a private house in relation to the choice of material and the method of its installation largely depends on the design of the basement itself and its ebb. The interface between the load-bearing wall and the plinth is the most likely place for moisture to penetrate into the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. From below, waterproofing does not let it in, that's why they put it. But the water flowing into the walls is also capable of leaking under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary closure. To prevent it, a low tide is arranged above the base.
Design options for a plinth with a low tide
Possible options for the design of the plinth with a low tide are shown in fig. If the base is sinking (pos. 1) - you are in luck. A simple single tide is laid between the layers of insulation; if a teardrop groove (dropper) is also knocked out from below on the wall extension, pos. 1a, then capillary blocking of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be from 2.5 bricks, or the basement ceiling should be slab, pos. 1b. The last option is avoided by budget developers - a little expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab floor justifies itself with a vengeance. Moreover, on, in fact, the second base of the house, you can build a box easier and cheaper. Also in this case, you can build from foam / gas blocks, then facing the house with bricks, which looks solid and inexpensive.
More often, however, there are houses on a protruding plinth, pos. 2. The technology for preventing capillary blockage in this case is known, this is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (addition) is placed at the end of the decorative finish of the basement and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper limb, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.
Now on sale there are "eternal" ebbs made of propylene or stainless steel, their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional design. With an “eternal” ebb, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the basement is completely finished, and the ebb is placed on the wall before facing it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or thermal panels on glue. The rim of the ebb turns out to be walled up in the facade cladding, pos. 2b, and water will no longer flow under the wall.
Note: the same methods of installing a low tide are applicable for houses on a plinth flush with the wall, although in general a “smooth” plinth is bad in every way.
Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. So it is possible, but the front brick on the eaves must be taken so-called. hyperpressed (hyperformed), grout the seams of the cornice-outflow flush, and use a waterproof and moisture-resistant masonry mortar and grout with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, they can be prepared with your own hands by adding 1-3 cups per bucket of PVA or polymer tile adhesive such as bustilat to the cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for outdoor work. You can also use glue for porcelain stoneware or clinker (terracotta) tiles.
Hyperpressed brick is often falsified. You can recognize the real one by its homogeneous structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of a matte or semi-matte surface, the so-called. bricks - "chocolates", pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) face bricks that form an ebb, after a winter or two, the core will appear and efflorescence will go, pos. 3a, which means - break the lining of the basement and redo the ebb, while the wall is locked.
Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum allowable width of the foundation tape here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and for a number of reasons it is impossible to put a log house or frame on a concrete slab. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for a log or timber and frame house are shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log / log house, the fastening of the rim of the outer tray is sealed with silicone; this is not required in a frame house, because. wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.
Note: in all cases of using a double tide, the distance between the cornices of the inner and outer trays must be at least 10-12 mm anywhere.
Preparation for cladding
The most difficult and time-consuming part of the work on finishing the base is leveling its surface for cladding; the plinth can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbled along the edges) or the above-ground part of the concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for outdoor work. Self-kneading can be made hydrophobic as described above (PVA, bustilat, etc.).
Alignment of the surface of the plinth for facing with starting plaster along the reinforcing mesh.
For leveling with plaster, the plinth is treated with a deep penetration primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, if necessary, patching is done with a cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a plaster mortar thick, not flowing; the layer is given in 1.5-2 mesh thicknesses. They rub it to evenness with a semi-terre immediately, without waiting for setting. After setting, they check the evenness with a rail (the norm is 3 mm / m), grind and smear as necessary. It is advisable to first make a separate section of 1-1.5 square meters. m, after that, and the "teapot" with hands from where it is necessary, at least the start will be put quite evenly under the lining.
Materials and technologies
The materials for lining the plinth, as mentioned above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical stress and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the base, according to the price and complexity of the work, are generally divided into the following classes:
- Painted waterproof plaster is the easiest and cheapest option. Best suited for a low, up to 40 cm, plinth, the finish of which is still not really visible. Maintainability is limited, tk. it is difficult to match the paint for the patch exactly to the tone of the existing one.
- Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, the lining of the base is comparable to plaster. Appearance at 3+ or 4–, but the stroke of the corners is greatly simplified, see below. Maintainability is complete.
- Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - lining the basement with them can be inexpensive and does not require much work, but if the basement and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times, also see below. Maintainability is very limited: it is very difficult to remove the damaged fragment(s) without breaking the cladding over a sufficiently large area.
- Flexible stone - in terms of the combination of price / quality / appearance / technical capabilities, it has no equal. Finishing the plinth with a flexible stone is also possible in a budget version. Maintainability is complete.
- Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance it can surpass artificial stone (not natural!). Proper installation is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. Maintainability is complete, but the repair is quite laborious.
- Socle cladding panels (not facade!) - somewhat more expensive than basement siding with the same decorative qualities, but devoid of its weaknesses (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as wild stone and brick.
- Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain stoneware facing tiles are the most expensive and time-consuming, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a plinth surface for a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a not terrifying price.
Plaster
It makes no sense to trim the basement with a beautiful, but not very resistant finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing with alkyd enamels for outdoor use. They will cost a little more, but yacht enamels will last much longer. The option is a little more expensive, but even more resistant and absolutely waterproof - the so-called. latex-acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; upon drying, they give a layer similar to dense rubber, only colored.
The plastered plinth can be immediately trimmed to look like a stone using silicone stamps. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, the plastering of the basement under the stone is carried out as follows:
- Select samples (models) of natural stone of any breed of suitable size and more or less matching in contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick.
- For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - a flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
- Models are abundantly impregnated with mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
- Next, the models are lubricated with petroleum jelly (lanolin), each is placed in its own flask and filled with silicone. The flasks from the inside before this also need to be smeared with petroleum jelly.
- After the silicone hardens, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out of the die blanks (do not be afraid to pull, the silicone is stretchable and strong) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
- On the base prepared as described above, a layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied and stamped immediately, until setting.
- After the coating has completely hardened, it is painted.
Fake diamond 
Finishing the basement of the house with artificial stone.
Facing the basement of a house with artificial stone, for all its mediocre merits, is good for budget developers in that you can make the forms for the corner elements (see Fig.) yourself. The corners are the weakest points of the cladding, it is here that the masonry joints begin to crack and the moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it is not needed. They mount an artificial stone on a plinth or similarly to a natural one without insulation, or on tile glue like a tile (see both below),
Do-it-yourself methods for making artificial stone are described in other materials; any of its types suitable for paving paths will go to the basement. You can also make a home-made artificial stone for lining the basement from the same plaster mortar. The workflow differs from the production of stone stamps in that it is not necessary to select models so strictly in terms of thickness and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more stable; see video below. The technology for making artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict, there are different options here.
Wild stone and brick
Natural stone for lining the plinth should be chosen heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not subject to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. Best of all, granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 full freeze / thaw cycles. With the current climate change, this is not so much, in Central Russia in the off-season there can be either a day or a full cycle.
The technology of facing the basement with natural stone significantly depends on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is simpler, you only need to fulfill the following conditions (see the figure on the right):
Note: do not be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone at all, they will only add glamor to the house. Mold and efflorescence (spots of salt on damp, and then dried out places) - that's what's bad. But on the stones of the above rocks, both do not happen.
Finishing the basement with facing bricks differs from facing with wild stone, firstly, in that the masonry joints make it normal for brickwork with a thickness of 10-13 mm. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be waterproof with a plasticizer (see above), because. moisture is very fond of lingering in the seams of brickwork and dirt accumulates. Thirdly, it is very, very desirable to use a hyper-pressed brick, as for a brick ebb, see above.
Facing the basement with natural stone and brick is seriously complicated if the walls, foundation and basement are insulated. Then not only the heavy cladding has nothing to hold on to, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What complex of works is required to avoid both can be imagined by looking at the scheme of stone cladding of the insulated basement in Fig.:
Scheme of facing stone plinth with insulation
And the matter will become even more complicated if the basement of an existing house is faced, because. retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to line the plinth under the stone with siding, panels, and if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye - with tiles. But first, let's finish with stone materials.
flexible stone
Flexible stone in some sources is served as a kind of "flexible tile on polymer resins." Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been looking for for a long time. There she is dear: the polymer tile shrank, tightened, cracked, and quickly wore out in heated rooms.
Flexible stone in finishing and cladding
The binder of the flexible stone is, indeed, synthetic resins, but not the mythical "polymer", but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is in the textile base, sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an outdoor cladding material are truly magnificent (see fig.):
- Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
- The estimated service life is over 150 years.
- Easily processed, can be cut with scissors.
- It shines through, you can hide illuminators behind the cladding or even make a street lamp out of flexible stone, which during the day, turned off, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
- Available in an innumerable variety of unique textures and colors that are completely natural, both solid and torn, with gaps for imitation of masonry joints.
- Curved surfaces and corners are easily circled with a flexible stone.
- There is no facade and basement, external and internal flexible stone, it is suitable for all types of finishing work. The same material can be used to finish the plinth, window and door trim, balcony, cornice, etc.
- Finishing the basement of a house with a flexible stone on a complex terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times cheaper than any other material comparable in terms of decorative qualities and durability.
- Careful preparation of a surface under a flexible stone is not required. If the irregularities do not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is laid simply on tile adhesive (the minimum layer above the base projections is 2 mm). Otherwise, the potholes are roughly covered with a cement-sand mortar. Which in any case will not hurt for the sake of saving expensive glue.
There are only two shortcomings of a flexible stone: it is rough; glossy and semi-gloss (polished) does not happen. Then, the base for the flexible stone needs to be strong, so it is impossible to glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), first you need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.
Siding 
Plinth siding panel
The basement of the house is lined with special basement siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than the facade siding. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The first is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second is more resistant. Outwardly, basement siding differs from facade siding in that it is made not with boards, but with slabs with tongue-and-groove joints on latches, see fig. Therefore, filing the basement siding in size is possible only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a regular additional element. Basement siding is mounted on a horizontal crate made of wood or steel profile on hardware (self-tapping screws).
Facing with siding is the least time-consuming way to finish a stone plinth at an acceptable cost; It doesn't matter if it's an old house or a new building. But the “law of free cheese” is adamant here too: serious problems of lining the basement with siding are, firstly, damage to the battens, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the cladding, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents there. As a result, the skin is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.
The general scheme for mounting basement siding is given in fig. below; drainage is highly desirable and in places fairly dry. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the complete arrangement of the blind area. At the bottom and top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (eg CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).
Basement siding installation scheme
However, each plinth siding manufacturer struggles with the problems of its product in its own way, which, by the way, indicates that there is no optimal solution yet. Therefore, if you opt for siding for the basement, then:
- Ask the supplier or look on the manufacturer's website for the specification of the material and make sure that it is suitable for your conditions (temperature range, annual rainfall, soil properties, plinth design and material, building structure).
- Use extensions, lathing material, fasteners and sealant of the recommended types.
- Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions exactly.
- In no case do not save on starting and finishing strips: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with relatives are just waiting for this.
Panels and plates
Finishing the plinth with panels is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than siding, but it is devoid of its shortcomings, because. there is no crate with its pockets, the panels are put on glue. True, metal composite panels are mounted on a crate, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian appearance. Most often, the plinth is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone linings and polyurethane insulation, they are quite suitable for this purpose. The paneled plinth looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; surface leveling is required to an unevenness of 3 mm / m. Warming is obtained automatically.
You can still find recommendations to finish the base with glass-magnesite slabs (SMPs), but this option is far from the best: SMPs are fragile, have little resistance to abrasion and soil chemistry. Outside, in resorts, the facades of houses for rent are sometimes finished in half-timbered style with high-quality SMPs (on the right in the figure), but such a cladding lasts 10-15 years, and during this time you have to do 2-3 of its cosmetic repairs.
Glass-magnesite panels (SMP)
In private construction, SMPs are sometimes used as a fixed formwork for an elevated strip foundation, which, in general, is good in every respect, except for the price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners must be taken longer so that the screws sit in the base. And then natural stone and brick as a plinth finish disappear: under the weight, the lining will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.
Tile
Facing the basement with tiles is a decision of the poor, left over from Soviet times. The porous material collects moisture, the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and exposure to sand grains. The plinth is tiled with either clinker (terracotta) or porcelain tiles. Facing the basement of an existing house with tiles does not differ technologically from that in the process of construction, which is an undoubted advantage. Then the base is primed with a deep penetration primer. The tile is put on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections under 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, while the glue has not set, the tiles are fixed with crosses or other separators (see the figure), otherwise the lining will slip. Separators are also placed below, a gap of 10-12 mm is needed there, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The next section is faced after the glue has hardened on the previous one.
Plinth tiling
Note: it is impossible to prepare the surface for tiles in the manner described above (mesh + plaster), the lining will peel off.
If you still want to finish your plinth with tiles (it looks rich, you won’t say anything), then it’s better to veneer it with porcelain stoneware. Firstly, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum, it does not care about sand. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except for hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony acids, do not affect porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work will not be so boring. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tile only with a shot from a rifled weapon; buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun from a distance of 15 m flattens and rebounds. Fifthly, porcelain stoneware slabs are also available with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the low thermal expansion coefficient (thermal expansion coefficient), porcelain stoneware on the plinth can be laid “without a seam”, i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.
More about stone
Let's see again what types of stone are suitable for lining the basement. Yes, this is ... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort it out yourself, then there will be enough pieces to build a stone plinth, and, smaller, to fill in the recesses between large fragments later. So, and building, as they say, tightly on a budget, consider also the option of a stone plinth. Facing/finishing as such disappears, and any house will look solid on 100% natural stone.
Carrying out the exterior decoration of the house, it is necessary to pay attention to all its elements and sections. Particular care requires the study of those details that are in plain sight. These details include the basement - the lower, slightly protruding part of the building, encircling it completely around the perimeter.
For most homeowners, when finishing, a logical question arises - what material to choose so that the basement looks presentable, spectacular, but at the same time, so that it reliably protects the building from dampness, precipitation and destruction associated with these phenomena. In the article, we will consider this issue and find out: what types of finishing materials are suitable for decorating the basement, what are the strengths and weaknesses of each of them.
Why do you need a plinth
Let's find out why the building needs this part of it.
The plinth is necessary for almost any building, because, in addition to the visible - decorative, it also performs an invisible - protective role. The basement protects the most important, lower part of the structure from precipitation, dampness coming from the ground, and other unpleasant external manifestations. It prevents moisture from seeping into the basement, acts as a kind of waterproofing.
In addition to protecting against moisture, the base also performs the functions of thermal protection. Due to the fact that a reinforced, well-planned and erected plinth retains heat inside the house, building owners can enjoy a favorable indoor climate even in the most severe frost.
But in order to properly finish the base, it is not enough to pay attention to one decorative coating. Before the external, final finishing, a layer of waterproofing, insulation is necessary, then plastering takes place. And only after all these stages comes the time of facing.
You may also be interested in information about what
On the video, how the lining of the basement of the house takes place:
Overview of materials
We will learn all the pros and cons of various types of finishing materials suitable for decorating the basement.
Plaster
One of the most popular exterior finishes. The product range, the variety of the palette and the functional advantages of this material are constantly expanding, changing and improving. The best option for facing the basement will be the choice of facade plaster, designed specifically for exterior decoration.
It looks like facing the basement of the house with plaster
pros
Frost resistance allows the use of facade plaster in areas with any climate - even in the Far North. The basement, covered with plaster, will safely "survive" both dry summer and autumn with rain.
The low price makes this type of cladding one of the most affordable.
A huge palette of shades and textures allows you to choose exactly the plaster that best suits the look of the house. But how plaster is made under the lighthouse can be seen in this
Among other things, plaster is also quite easy to work with. It is possible to carry out facade cladding without the involvement of hired labor.
The plaster allows air to pass through, which favorably affects the internal microclimate of the house. The composition of the material is natural: sand and cement.
With the help of textured plaster, you can mask the defects, pits and irregularities on the base, giving it a neat and even look.
Minuses
The disadvantages include not too long service life of the material. In order for the plinth to be securely protected and the exterior of the building to remain attractive, the plaster will have to be reapplied approximately every four years. Often, in order for the material to last longer, it is coated on top with special facade paints that protect the plaster from moisture and precipitation.
The disadvantage is that this material by itself is in no way able to additionally insulate the building.
Tile
Wonderful facing material for universal use.
pros
The material has a uniquely wide range: you can choose tiles of all colors of the rainbow, any texture, size and other parameters.
With tiles
This finishing material is durable, strong and reliable. The tile remarkably resists aggressive external influences, including weather and mechanical ones. And here is what a brick-like facing tile looks like, and how to install it. can see
Externally, the plinth, trimmed with tiles, looks very neat and elegant, perfectly decorates the house.
Minuses
The disadvantages include the rather high price of this material. The average price for a pack of tiles starts at 800 rubles, so not everyone can afford to buy a decent amount of these packs for finishing the basement: especially if the latter is high.
The tile is capricious in installation. If the owner of the house does not have the skills of laying it, then it is better not to take up work on his own, so as not to spoil the expensive material. You will have to invite the master, which will also cost a certain amount.
In addition to the tile itself, you will also need special glue, grout and other consumables, which will lead to even higher costs.
A natural stone
This is a unique material that can turn even the oldest and most unprepossessing house into a representative and respectable building.
Most often, the following types of natural stone are used to finish the basement:
- sandstone:
- granite;
- cobblestone;
- less often - marble.
pros
The material has an almost unlimited service life. If the owner of the house, being in middle age, finished the basement of his dwelling with stone, then for the rest of his life he will not have to worry about this problem now.
The stone has a completely natural origin, which increases the environmental friendliness of the home, and has a beneficial effect on health. The design of the house will become unique, because nature has not yet created two identical stones.
The material is also surprisingly durable. Natural stone is able to withstand any external influence: chemical, mechanical, atmospheric. And if a stone suddenly falls off the wall during operation, it will not be difficult to glue a new one in this place. But how can you use a facing stone, and how to do all the work
On the video, facing the basement of the house with natural stone:
The range of natural stone is very rich: a variety of textures and colors makes it possible to match the material to any shade and design of the building. Finishing the basement with natural stone makes the building "expensive", representative and respectable. A similar impression will arise in everyone who looks at a house finished in this way. Therefore, if financial problems do not bother, natural stone is perhaps the best choice.
Minuses
The downside is the high price. Due to its strength, naturalness and high aesthetic properties, this material is unlikely to ever be cheap.
Natural stone is not easy to install. It is best to entrust this responsible matter to a specialist with extensive experience in such work.
Stone is a heavy material, so the additional load on the foundation will be hefty. It is necessary to make accurate calculations in advance in order to find out whether the foundation of the building will cope with such a “load”.
Read also about finishing the plinth of a pile-screw foundation.
Fake diamond
Outwardly, this material can not be distinguished from its natural counterpart. The benefits are also very similar. There are some differences, and we will list them.
pros
Artificial stone is cheaper, which means that this type of material is available to more people. At the same time, technical characteristics and external decorativeness are not much inferior to the "original".
Synthetic stone weighs less than natural stone, so it will not create a large load on the foundation.
Flaws
Of the minuses, one can name, nevertheless, the insufficient lightness of an artificial stone. Although it is certainly lighter than natural. 
To carry out the laying of the material, it is necessary to properly level and prepare the surface of the base. This will also require costs: time, power and financial.
Artificial stone must be treated after laying with protective compounds that will ensure its moisture resistance. It also adds money and time costs.
Siding
A modern finishing material that came to us from the Scandinavian countries.
pros
Siding, due to its multi-layer construction, reliably protects the facade from atmospheric influences. In addition, the finish looks very neat. 
Siding can be made from different materials, which gives a certain scope for choosing the most suitable type. Siding can imitate different textures: including brick, wood, stone.
This finishing material is very easy to install - it is not necessary to invite specialists. The panels are assembled according to an elementary scheme, which is easy to understand even for a beginner in construction.
In addition, siding is quite durable.
There are no serious cons found in this material.. Flaws and defects in the operation of siding can only appear if the choice fell on a low-quality material initially. And here is what a ventilated facade siding looks like, you can see
PVC panels
Also one of the modern, technological materials. The panels are widely used in interior and exterior decoration of buildings.
Facing the basement of the house with PVC panels
pros
Panels are ways to imitate different materials, which allows you to decorate the facade at a lower cost.
Can be used both for plinth and for finishing the whole house: this material is characterized by rare versatility.
The panels withstand temperature extremes well, so they can be used in areas with almost any climate.
The ease of installation makes it possible to cope with the finishing of the basement on your own, without the need to hire specialists.
The downside is the unnaturalness of the material, and its somewhat "cheap" form.
Facing the basement of the house with porcelain stoneware
Among other things, this material is a wonderful heat insulator. Thanks to this quality, the owners of the house will be reliably protected from the cold.
And the fundamental disadvantages of this material were not found. The main thing is that it fits the external design of the building.
We examined the features of the choice of material for finishing the basement. As you can see, in our time we can choose from many worthy, noteworthy options. A wealth of decor, colors and textures will help you choose the material for absolutely any external design of the building, making the house look unified and harmonious.