- interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house from a bar with plasterboard

Nowadays, the construction of wooden houses, their interior decoration are becoming especially popular. They are attractive for their qualities, such as environmental friendliness, aesthetics, comfort of living in a good wooden house. As an example - compare your personal feelings from being in a brick house or a house made of wood. I'm sure that
The second option will be chosen by the absolute majority. But when building a house made of wood, it is necessary to take into account some factors on which the durability of the structure and the convenience of your stay in it depend. And now we will consider in more detail, a rather important issue - this is the interior decoration of a wooden house.

1) Features of the interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house made of timber

Proceed to the interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house from a bar should be only after a more detailed study of the technology, methods and their advantages. It is very important that the interior finishing materials let air through. In a wooden house, this must be taken into account not only for interior decoration, but also for exterior. If finishing
sheathing materials will not let air through, there will be an elementary greenhouse effect in the premises of the house. To avoid this and ensure a normal microclimate in the house, then you will need to make additional forced ventilation. This will require additional cash costs from you and an increase in the volume of construction and finishing work.
The second important point when arranging the interior decoration of a wooden house is to use light finishing materials. This will help to avoid additional load on the walls and foundation.

2) When can I start the interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house

Finishing a wooden house can be started only after the final active shrinkage of a wooden frame. Be sure to consider the material from which the house is built. A more accurate end of shrinkage will depend on the average air temperature, humidity and climatic features of the area.
Final shrinkage of walls from:
– glued laminated timber – after 3-4 months
- ordinary timber or logs - after 1 year

You can start finishing the interior walls only after they are completely caulked.
Caulking of walls is carried out in two stages:
- the first caulking of the walls of the house should be done 4-6 weeks after the assembly of all
walls.
- the walls are caulked a second time in 5-8 months.
For caulking walls, you need to prepare a heat-insulating, sealing material. Usually they use tow or jute. Having started caulking the walls of a wooden house, it is necessary to do this simultaneously from the inside and from the outside of the walls. Having finished the insulation with caulk on one side, you must immediately move on to the other, you must do this immediately to avoid possible warping of the walls.

When all the insulation work is completed and the walls are caulked on both sides, then the building itself rises a few centimeters. After some time - up to two weeks, the height will become the same and at the same time the material of the caulk will be compacted. This ensures a tight, complete fit of the caulking material to the logs, thereby increasing the thermal insulation of the house and necessarily preventing drafts.

After complete shrinkage of the walls, after caulking, for good insulation, you can go through the sealant along all the seams over the caulking.

3) Preparing the walls before finishing

Before you start the interior decoration of a wooden house, look at how the walls are stacked. If everything is done carefully, no insulation sticks out of the joints, then it is possible that wall decoration is not needed in any rooms. And it would be better to avoid spending money to apply high-quality paint and varnish products, while maintaining a peculiar flavor in the interior of a wooden house.

4) Interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house from a bar: options

Best for finishing wooden walls inside the house are suitable:
- wall decoration with clapboard (various colors and shapes)
- wall paneling
- wall cladding with plasterboard
Under all of the listed materials, it will be necessary to make a frame over the entire surface of the walls. Make a base, frame, preferably from wood. Wall cladding on the frame has the following advantages:
– no need to level the surface
- creating a gap for air circulation (this is very important for a wooden house)
- Allows additional thermal insulation.
When performing the interior decoration of a wooden house, it is important to leave a gap between the ceiling. It will be necessary, given the various deformations and possible microshrinkage. The width of the gap is from 2 to 4 cm, it can be closed with a decorative ceiling plinth.

- interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house with clapboard

When decorating walls with clapboard, it is possible to use material from various types of wood, various types of clapboard. Divide the lining along the transverse profile.

Fasten the lining in several ways:
- on clamps
- on self-tapping screws or nails at an angle
- on nails in the face (not very practical due to aesthetic reasons)
The first two methods of fastening are quite laborious. Fasteners are nailed so as not to damage the front surface of the lining. For interior wall decoration with clapboard, a construction stapler with staples is also used, using staples with a narrow back and long legs. All fasteners used must be made of stainless steel.
Lining made of wood, as well as wooden walls, allows for the possibility of shrinkage. To avoid this, chamber drying material should be used.

- interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house with wall panels

A very good finishing option and a great opportunity to diversify the interior and create your personal and unique look in the room. It is widely used by designers for additional opportunities in the design of residential premises.

The interior decoration of a wooden house made of timber with wall panels can be of different types:
– plastic
– wooden
– MDF
– bamboo
- leather
When fixing the panels themselves, it is required to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The cladding is attached to the crate of the wall surface. Depending on the material of the panels, the mounting methods are quite diverse, so before purchasing the selected material, you should familiarize yourself with its features.

– internal finishing walls wooden Houses from timber drywall

Application for finishing drywall is quite common. Pretty light material, simple installation of the panels themselves and the price that is quite affordable for a simple consumer. When choosing drywall for interior wall decoration, follow these recommendations:
– Drywall material is not durable and can be easily damaged. finishing
drywall is recommended to be used no earlier than 1.5-2 years after
building a house.
– Care must be taken to ensure that the material does not become wet or excessively damp.
- If the walls are finished with drywall immediately after construction, then you should
fasten the sheets to the floating frame, then the finish and the base will shrink during shrinkage
move separately and this will not damage the surface.
– To prevent the opening of joints or cracks in problem areas, it is necessary
will glue them with a reinforcing mesh made of polymer material.

In the manufacture of a frame for attaching sheets, it is recommended to use slats and bars made of wood. The use of a metal profile will require a waterproofing device - the rules for using different materials with different moisture properties and characteristics require a waterproofing device.

Interior finishing works are the final stage in the construction of private houses. Finishing a wooden house depends on the material of the walls. That is why, before starting work, all wooden elements should be treated with antiseptic agents. In this article, we will tell you in detail how to sheathe a wooden house from the inside and how to choose the right material.

Basic requirements for facing material

Wall cladding in a wooden house should take into account the shrinkage of the structure. The shrinkage process directly affects the selected material. Before cladding a building, pay attention to the following points:

• Seasonality of residence. Not always the house is used for permanent residence. When sheathing with inexpensive materials, there is a possibility of their deformation or cracking, because. in winter, the temperature inside the house will not be comfortable.
• Design parameters. The weight of supporting structures is of great importance, because. when they shrink, they can significantly deform the decorative coating.
• Environmental standards of the material. Not all products meet environmental standards, even the most expensive product can emit toxins or formaldehyde compounds.
• Cost and appearance. Cheap doesn't mean bad. Not always expensive material is able to be of high quality and harmoniously fit into the overall interior.

When choosing a material, consult with experts and study the reviews, then you can clearly answer the question of how to sheathe the walls in a wooden house.

Material characteristic

A log house can be sheathed using the following products:

• lining;
• drywall;
• block house;
• PVC panel;
• MDF panel;
• wood material: OSB, chipboard or plywood.

Now let's look at each cladding material in more detail.

The use of lining

The lining is a simple board, with built-in special grooves, due to which the tree fits snugly against each other. The photo shows the floor and walls finished with clapboard

The disadvantage of using lining is its stereotype, such an internal design looks good, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to give some individuality to the premises. Of the advantages of lining can be noted:

• a huge selection of wood species;
• various types of product processing;
• environmental friendliness of the material;
• pleasant aroma inside the house.

For information! Before sheathing the rooms with clapboard, it is necessary to assemble a frame from wooden or metal bars. This method will help eliminate all sorts of surface irregularities.

Using a block house

If you like a rounded log, but you don’t know how to sheathe a house inside from a bar, a block house will be an ideal option. This material is widely used in the decoration of cottages, the tree can not only decorate the room, but also give maximum comfort and coziness. Of the advantages of this material, it is worth noting:

• high environmental friendliness, products are made from natural types of wood that undergo special drying;
• mechanical strength allows the product not to lose its appearance and positive characteristics;
• has an aesthetic appearance, is able to decorate any home;
• simple mounting method.

For information! A block house made of coniferous wood allows you to maintain a favorable microclimate inside the building, and hardwood products are highly resistant to moisture.

The disadvantages include:

• low vapor permeability;
• high flammability of the material.

Block house looks great inside a wooden house

The use of drywall

Recently, drywall is often used to finish wooden buildings. However, experts do not recommend the use of gypsum, because. it has a number of disadvantages. If you perform interior work immediately after building a house, drywall may crack or deform during shrinkage. It is also worth noting that after fixing the sheets of gypsum, they must be plastered and painted. The joints are sealed, which makes the space in the house clogged.

PVC panel

If you want to save money, but do not know how to sheathe the house from a bar inside, a plastic panel is the most economical option. Among the advantages can be noted:

• ease of mounting;
• high resistance to moisture;
• Large selection of panel colors.

The disadvantages of the material include:

• low environmental friendliness;
• panels are not able to pass steam and air;
• when ignited, they quickly melt and release dangerous and harmful substances for human health.

According to the reviews of home owners, the main area of ​​application of plastic panels is non-residential or utility rooms.

Using MDF panels

MDF panels are produced from a more environmentally friendly material than plastic. The surface of the product is quite smooth, does not require complex finishing. Panels can be fastened either directly to the wall, or with the help of a frame device. Manufacturers produce MDF panels of various designs, colors and textures, with their help you can decorate any room in the house.

It is worth noting that the MDF panel is able to additionally insulate and soundproof the walls.

Important! In rooms where heating is not provided or there is high humidity, it is absolutely impossible to use MDF!

Thanks to interesting colors, you can make rooms unique and stylish. The photo shows a room sheathed with MDF

Use of wood material

All products made of wood material (OSB, plywood and chipboard) are used for rough work, but they are practically not used for final finishing work. In addition, during the production process, wood products are treated with special adhesives and impregnations, which evaporate and adversely affect human health.

For information! Sheet plywood is considered the safest wood product that is used for finishing work. It is used as a base, leveling the wall, for pasting wallpaper.

We carry out the lining of the house inside

Most often, the owners of private wooden houses use lining as cladding. As a rule, plastic lining is used for rooms with high humidity, and wooden cladding panels are used for other rooms. Wooden lining perfectly soundproofs, insulates and favorably affects the microclimate. Before sheathing a house from a bar, the lining is prepared, i.e. treated with a special bioprotective agent. Wood processing allows you to protect the material from rotting, mold and various insects. Next, all products are thoroughly dried. Installation of lining is carried out on the crate. The frame is assembled from ready-made rails and the crate is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 cm. A small gap is left between the wall and the cladding, which performs the function of ventilation. If the design requires additional insulation, lay a special material and cover it with a vapor barrier. At the end, a crate is built, on which wooden cladding panels will be mounted.

Installation of lining is carried out in two ways:

• horizontal;
• vertical.

The horizontal method starts with laying from the ceiling to the floor, with the grooves pointing down. This arrangement will prevent debris, dust and other foreign objects from entering the grooves of the boards. To obtain even and high-quality masonry, we recommend checking the evenness of the wall every 10-15 panels.

The vertical method starts with laying the panels from the corner. A clamper is fixed in the groove of the back wall, which is carefully nailed to the laths of the crate. The first panel is fixed with nails, the cap of which is covered with a decorative corner. The installation of the lining is carried out, as in the horizontal method, with the obligatory insertion of the boards into each other. Fasteners carefully press the material, and as a result it lines up in a single canvas. The last facing panel is also fixed with nails. The final stage will be the decoration of internal, external joints using a decorative plinth, slats and corners. Optionally, the panels can be coated with a special varnish that will create protection against moisture and temperature changes. The photo shows the final finishing inside the house.

The presented characteristics of the materials will allow you to take into account the features of the structure, its interior design, and will also help you easily answer the question of how best to sheathe your house.

Finishing a house from a bar inside depends from the time of construction, the size of the house and the type of timber from which the building was erected. All of these factors affect shrinkage.

The wooden parts of the subfloor are carefully treated with an antiseptic. Then you need a layer of waterproofing. The waterproofing layer is made of rolled materials, rolling strips with an overlap. The next step is laying insulation between the lags of the floor.

Between wooden floors and walls leave a gap for the movement of the tree. Without a technological gap, the floor, expanding, rests against the wall. A tense tree forms mounds, locks will rise, disperse. Additional purpose of the technological gap - underfloor ventilation. The plinth is attached to the wall, allowing the wood to expand and contract as the room humidity changes.

Sheet material is used in the work area kitchens, bathrooms, toilets as a base for ceramic tiles.

Laying tiles on a wooden base has its own characteristics:

• the base is checked for creaking, mobility, disassembled and strengthened for any of the signs;
• the surface is primed before starting work;
• use glue with polymer additives or tile glue for wood, improving the adhesion of the tile to the surface.

ceilings

The principle of flooring a house made of wooden beams coincides with the principle of flooring. As a result, a warm and strong multi-layer cake of sheathing and insulation is obtained, laid with vapor barrier, waterproofing films.

The ceiling is carefully insulated, the main heat loss in the house goes through the roof. The top cladding is carried out at the stage of building a house, called draft ceiling. The lower surface of the ceiling, visible from the room, is called filing.

Ceiling beams give the ceiling of a house made of timber a non-standard original shape, give a lot of room for imagination. Ceiling beams usually remain a visible decorative element. Beams are painted with impregnations on wood or sheathed with various materials, decorating and decorating.

To decorate the ceiling use:

• stretch ceiling, glossy, matte and patterned. The stretch ceiling is not afraid of shrinkage, the fabric is elastic, it stretches well;
• sheets with subsequent coloring. The LED strip will allow you to adjust the shade of lighting according to your mood;
• wooden lining, painted in light shades for color contrast with dark ceiling beams or in the same color;
• laminated panels from fiberboard, MDF, light and varied in color, pattern;
• plastic panels for bathrooms, bathrooms, utility rooms.

Stretch ceilings are not designed for sub-zero temperatures, they are applicable only in houses equipped with heating. Otherwise, finishing the ceiling of a house made of timber is no different from finishing the ceiling of any other house or apartment.

note

The hemming device over the ceiling beams reduces the height of the room.

Walls

The excellent wood texture of the walls made of coniferous timber does not need finishing, it looks natural. Wood is a versatile material used in any style from modern to country. Wooden walls look appropriate in combination with stone and forged elements, stainless steel and glass organically fit into the interior design.

Unaesthetic joints of the beam are closed with a decorative cord. A smooth, even surface is covered with colorless transparent paints and varnishes or lightly tinted, retaining the texture. Water-based varnishes will retain wood and a pleasant coniferous aroma.

If the surface of the beam has a large number of flaws, cracks - finish on top with any materials without restrictions.

The walls of the timber house are trimmed:

• plaster, smooth or embossed, followed by painting or wallpapering;
• drywall sheets with any finish;
• wooden clapboard, block house, timber imitation. The higher the grade of wood, the fewer knots.

The lining will preserve the ecological style of the premises, hide the shortcomings of the timber.

For fastening to the walls, they are stuffed with nails or a bar with a section of 40 x 40 mm is screwed with self-tapping screws. The bar is placed perpendicular to the cladding boards.

The lining is attached to the bars by hammering finishing nails into the lock at an angle or using special metal fasteners, clamps.

If necessary, a heater made of or mineral wool is laid between the bars. An interesting effect of log walls creates semi-circular shape of the block house. After installation, the lining is painted according to the design of the room.

The height to the ceiling is also left expansion gap on the expansion of the tree when the temperature and humidity conditions change and the possible shrinkage of the walls.

note

A frame made of timber or a profile reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Finishing with plasterboard sheets will hide electrical wiring, utility pipes. Drywall is easy to putty, bend to give a semicircular shape.

Use in rooms with high humidity moisture resistant drywall. The sheets are strong and can withstand the weight of tiles and stone.

Stone brings the interior natural beauty, comfort, in harmony with the tree. The rough texture of natural stone is unique, suitable for highlighting the fireplace area, framing doorways, corners of the room.

Artificial stone is lighter; when laying the wall with a mesh, they do not reinforce it. Tiles of the correct form, the same thickness, are easier to fit.

Rooms decorated with artificial or natural stone are brightly lit. The lack of light will make the interior rough and gloomy.

Finishing houses from timber inside in the photo

The interior design reflects the inner world of the inhabitants. Classic or modern, ecological style or country - the interior decoration of a house made of timber is limited only by the preferences of the owners.

The term interior decoration includes a set of works on laying communications that provide heat, electricity, water supply, sewerage, etc. In addition, interior decoration involves the creation of an interior. Interior decoration in timber houses has a number of features.

Features of the interior decoration of the house from a bar

In principle, the same materials are used for the interior decoration of log houses as for the decoration, for example, of a brick house. But the tree has a number of features that must be considered when performing finishing work:

• lumber houses are characterized by significant shrinkage, which can last for 5-6 years after construction is completed.

Shrinkage is due to the fact that the beam dries up and decreases somewhat in volume, in addition, due to the action of a constant load, the gaps between the individual beams also decrease. As a result, by the end of 5-6 years of operation, the height of the floor may well decrease by 2-3 cm. Such deformation may adversely affect the appearance of the wall (cracks may occur in the plaster, the tile may partially fall off or crack).

The use of glued beams partially solves this problem. In this case, the shrinkage of the house is completed by the end of the year after operation.

• Another feature of log houses is that wood, in comparison with other building materials, reacts especially strongly to changes in humidity. But changes in the height of the floor for this reason are insignificant and rarely exceed 1% of its height.

Materials for finishing inside the house from a bar

The tree itself is an excellent finishing material, therefore, if the surface of the walls inside does not have obvious flaws, then it is quite possible to leave the walls without additional finishing. It will be enough just to impregnate the tree with the appropriate composition to give it the desired shade.

But wooden walls do not always meet the needs of the owner; in this case, there are a lot of options for finishing the walls.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing, the tree must be impregnated with an antipyretic and antiseptic. Otherwise, wooden elements will quickly become unusable.

The method of finishing depends on the age of the house and the purpose of the room. So, for houses whose age exceeds 5-6 years, there are no restrictions. For houses whose shrinkage has not yet been completed, it is not recommended to use low-deformation finishing materials, such as tiles.

In the general case, the following options for finishing a house from a bar inside are possible:

1. Painting. The advantage of painting the walls is that the paint layer will serve as an additional protective layer for the wood.

1. You can just plaster house inside. In this case, special attention should be paid to the waterproofing of wooden surfaces. It is not recommended to start plastering work earlier than one year after the completion of construction.

1. Finishing with a block house or clapboard. This option is used when the walls inside have an unsightly appearance, but the owner wants to keep the wooden surfaces inside the house. This method of finishing is recommended to be used only after shrinkage of the house. First you need to create a frame that will slightly reduce the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

1. Wood tinting. To do this, the wood only needs to be cleaned of dust and impregnated with the composition in order to obtain the desired shade.

1. Drywall finishing. Perhaps a universal option for interior decoration of a house made of timber. Then, after puttying, you can stick wallpaper on drywall, paint it. You can even lay tiles on drywall. To finish a room with high humidity, drywall is also most often used; for this, it is recommended to use a moisture-resistant type of drywall (greenish sheets).

An important advantage of finishing a house from a bar with drywall is the ease of laying communications. Wires and pipes can be run in the space between the wall surface and the drywall sheets. The disadvantage of this method of finishing can be called some loss of usable area.

Drywall finishing can be combined with wall insulation.

When finishing the ceiling, quite often the ceiling beams are not masked, but act as an element of the interior. As for finishing the ceiling in traditional ways, for example, plastering, it is not recommended to do this in the first 5-6 years. The fact is that the shrinkage of the house causes a redistribution of effort in the ceiling beams. A compromise option may be to finish the ceiling with plasterboard or a stretch ceiling device.

Separately, it is worth mentioning sealing, these works can also be attributed to the interior decoration of a house made of timber. Of course, the house must “breathe”, only air circulation should occur through ventilation, and not through natural cracks and gaps between boards and beams. In the past, tow or moss was used to seal the joints between logs.

The traditional methods of sealing (filling cracks with moss or tow) have been replaced by new materials - special sealants. Despite the high elasticity, they provide 100% tightness and can act as an interior element.

Significant wall deformations require attention when installing doors and windows. In order to prevent the beams from crushing the frame or the door frame, so-called pigtails are arranged at a distance of up to 15 cm from the logs. During finishing work, the space between them and the logs must be filled with elastic materials, otherwise, when deformed, the bars will simply crush the door frame or window frame.

In principle, the interior decoration of a house made of timber does not differ much from the decoration of a house made of other materials, such as brick or concrete. It is only necessary to take into account the increased draft of the house and the susceptibility of wood to moisture.

Video - Making a wooden house inside with water-based azure

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Self-finishing a log house from the outside and from the inside

Wooden houses have always been, are and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. A log house is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how the timber house is finished inside and out, and this material is designed for those who are going to equip the house with their own hands.

Why finish a log house at all and when can work begin

Most of the inhabitants, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house may need exterior and interior decoration. After all, wood is already a beautiful self-sufficient material in itself, and all that can be done with it is just varnishing or painting.

They are partly right, but only if we are talking about the so-called glued profiled timber. This building material is really very beautiful and comfortable. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried and impregnated wood with protective compounds.

In addition, grooves (profiles) are cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house as a designer, by the way, step-by-step instructions are attached to such sets. As a result, the owners get a solid house without large gaps and distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, “bites” and therefore many people use ordinary, and not always well dried, instead of glued laminated timber. And an ordinary timber, to tell you honestly, looks good only on an advertising stand in a store, as soon as you put the coveted environmentally friendly housing out of it, its appearance is unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from glued beams, despite their attractive appearance, often need to be finished. In order for the house to be warm, you either need to buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And here the warm finishing of the facade of a timber house comes to the rescue.

We figured out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made "constructor" made of glued laminated timber, then this indicator is minimal. In this case, the general shrinkage will last about 3 years, and you can start finishing in six months, a maximum of a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not be started earlier than a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be abundantly “flavored” with various kinds of protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with a simple even beam, which at the time of construction has natural moisture. Such structures are seated for at least 5 - 7 years. As for the beginning of finishing work, many craftsmen advise starting them in a year, although I always recommend letting such a house stand for at least one and a half, and preferably 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your housing from, immediately after erection, the box must be covered with a roof and it must be treated with protective impregnations so that while shrinkage goes on, the tree does not start to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing timber houses

By and large, for finishing a log house, all the same materials are used that are used for facing a brick, block or any other structure. But they must be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How to decorate a log house
Cladding types	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house end, otherwise any movement of the base can cause cracks and even delamination. Stucco is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such a finish ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an exterior cladding option, I personally have not seen it mounted from the inside.
Facing facade brick	Here everything is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such a lining will stand for at least 50 years. As a rule, insulation is laid between a wooden and brick wall. The only limitation may be the foundation, for such a cladding a wide, capital structure is needed.
natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases, stone finishing of wooden buildings on the outside is limited only to the plinth. Plus, natural stone has a solid mass and needs to be equipped with an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining material is universal, it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are mounted quite simply. In our case, false timber trim is best, in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining, in some sources it can be called a block house, for a timber house this is the best option.
Lacquering or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, therefore varnishing or painting is more often used as interior decoration, although in the case of wooden lining, such processing can also be performed outside.
Tile	In this case, the tile is more relevant for the interior cladding of services in the house. Outside, it can only be finished with a basement and a porch.
Drywall	Drywall is a convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate a log house from the outside. If our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away, without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All that remains for us is varnishing and ventilated facade technology. The ventilated facade technology in this case should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It was not in vain that I combined all this, the fact is that the instruction in all these cases is similar.

Before you start finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, such a sealant was created specifically for these purposes and another will not work here.

Technology ventilated facade

In my deep conviction, for beginners, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable options for finishing a wooden house.

This type of facade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finish cladding and the base, and the insulation becomes excellent in this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, it is not worth cleaning, grinding and leveling them, just caulk and seal the gaps between them with sealant. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I think that this is superfluous. But protective treatment in this case is mandatory, and there is no need to save on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy a composition for biological protection of wood (antiseptic) and a composition for fire protection (fire retardant), take a paint roller or a wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied even before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing the old house, then you can also impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations with comprehensive protection, now the price for them is acceptable, home-made liquids according to folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of home-made products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnations dry, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the wooden wall. In general, it is pressed against the laths of the crate, but for me it is easier to first shoot it with a stapler, so you can do without helpers. And do not forget, steam moves from the room to the street, if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (there are always marks on such a canvas indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next, you will need to fill the crate on the wall. If on block houses most often the crate is made of metal UD and CD profiles, then for wooden walls it is better to use wooden bars, it is much easier to work with them. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the crate should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are even, it is better to play it safe. First, 2 extreme bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them, and the remaining bars of the crate are exposed along these cords.
  If the next bar protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a planer, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the planks, it is considered that the thicker and stronger the finish, the wider you can take a step, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, I mount a crate for any material in increments of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are mounted on a vertical crate, but under the lining, the crate should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is the diagonal laying of the lining, it is attached to a vertical crate. Although I do not advise you to take on diagonal installation, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• Mineral wool is usually used as a heater for wooden structures. The fact is that the tree must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like become caked for 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Now the highest quality is in basalt cotton slabs;
• The thickness of the cotton wool insulation for the middle lane of our great and mighty motherland varies around 100 mm. Naturally, the further north the region, the thicker the insulation should be taken;

When you cut cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm more than the distance between the guides of the crate. So your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of moisture, so we attach the so-called wind protection from above, in fact, this is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to first bait it with a stapler;
• The slats of the counter-lattice provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing lining is attached. For lining, I usually use 30x40 mm bars, it makes no sense to take less, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice, it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Now any type of lining is mounted using kleimers, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with self-tapping screws with wide caps. There are special mounting holes on the panels, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the self-tapping screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Rules for varnishing wood

The technique of applying varnish and staining is practically no different. Initially, you will need to properly sand the surface. If the glued beam is already so well processed, then you will have to tinker with the usual one.

Start processing with a large emery and gradually get to a fine-grained skin. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do it manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include a color change, then the surface is treated with a stain. Then let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you grind the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

Fine sandpaper is used to remove the pile. Moreover, it is not necessary to grind especially hard here, the pile is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp cloth.

From experience I can say that one final layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes you have to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After grinding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to take well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

As for the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend water-based acrylic varnishes, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, of course they are of high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and well tolerates all the vagaries of the weather. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for outdoor use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Interior decoration of the house

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate a log house inside, it all depends on what exactly you are going to veneer. Plus, the type of room plays a big role, you see, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Facing the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or an attic floor. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself in a wooden house can be based on floor joists or be equipped directly on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden logs are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be laid insulation. There is a small nuance here.

If the walls of a wooden house are better to be insulated with mineral wool boards, then foam plastic is more suitable for the floor and interfloor ceilings. Of course, you can also buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I believe that in this particular case, ordinary PSB-S25 foam is more suitable, the effect is the same, but such foam costs at least 2 times cheaper. I usually buy 50mm foam boards.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs are treated with protective impregnations, in their lower part you need to build a subfloor flooring. There are several ways here, I will tell you about the method that I myself use.

First, cranial bars with a section of 50x50 mm are stuffed on the sides of the lower cut of the lag, they will become the basis for the rough flooring. Further, a planed board with a thickness of about 20 - 30 mm is laid on these bars in even rows.

Moisture will constantly pull from the ground, therefore, both the cranial timber and the planks of the rough flooring must be well saturated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this, they used to impregnate railway sleepers with it. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but for a subfloor it fits perfectly. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The slats of the subfloor are cut out clearly in size and fit on the cranial beam, they can certainly be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now, in a continuous layer throughout the room, with wrapping around the log, a sheet of technical polyethylene is laid and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus, even if there are gaps somewhere, they will not be blown.

The foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so it makes no sense to mount any hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large gaps somewhere, do not worry, they can be blown out with mounting foam.

For a wooden house, the best and easiest, in my opinion, option is to install a floorboard. For this, a planed tongue-and-groove board with a thickness of 40 mm or more is used. In order not to spoil the view with nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed with clamps or driven nails into the bottom of the board groove.

For arranging parquet, laminate and other newfangled coatings, you will need to make a solid monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the brand "FK" with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm in 2 layers, while the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen mount OSB flooring, but I have not tried it, so I can’t say anything about this. The only thing I definitely do not advise you to do is to use chipboard sheets for arranging the base on the floor, at the slightest humidity they will swell and begin to peel off.

If a wooden house is erected on a concrete slab, then there is less work here. You need to cover the concrete with an overlap on the walls with plastic wrap. After that, install logs with a section of 50x50 mm and lay foam between them, and sew a finishing floor on top using any of the above described technologies.

As for the ceiling, it is easiest to hem the lining from below to the lags. From the side of the second floor or attic, you cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the lags and equip the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in the interfloor ceiling, it is imperative to lay some kind of sound insulator, the cheapest way is to take foam plastic, but no one bothers you to use, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it is fashionable to leave the load-bearing beams on the ceiling open. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a cranial beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Further, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coating of the second floor.

Of course, there is also a multi-level plasterboard ceiling and a stretch ceiling. But the installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires a certain amount of experience, and stretch ceilings are quite an expensive thing, and without knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with a false beam is a priority method, because the house is, after all, made of timber and in this case we simply correct the visual defects of the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only larger. In theory, if the walls are even, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it’s better to fill the crate on the walls and mount the false beam on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross section of the crate bars depends on what kind of gap you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a bar of 30x40 mm is enough. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a bar with a section of 50x50 mm or even more. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but this will have to be put up with, otherwise there is no way.

And do not forget that the electrical wiring in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be wound into a metal hose. Now corrugated plastic tubes are sold for these purposes, they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and cost less than a metal hose, but mice easily gnaw through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is mounted only in exceptional cases, extremely rarely. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to freezing.

The second most popular way of interior decoration of a log house is drywall. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet rooms you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to mount drywall not on a traditional metal frame, but on a wooden crate. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already mounted in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the crate, under the drywall, the step of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the caps of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean, you need to putty it.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly expanded with a knife, the groove should be about half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not take well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue a sickle (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now spread the finishing putty and trim the sheet with it. Start by filling the joints and covering the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a putty on the entire plane of the sheet with a layer of 1 - 2 mm.

If it is planned to tile drywall, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive sickle, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh on it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. For painting, puttyed walls will have to be sanded to perfect condition. That is, start with a coarse emery and finish with a thin sandpaper.

Often inside a log house or in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement, fragmentary decoration with natural or artificial stone is used. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of base movement, so you need to strengthen the base well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and fix it with self-tapping screws, on which I additionally put on wide washers.

Most often, tile glue is used to mount the stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously, a reinforced wooden base was covered with a layer of cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and a stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of a cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive, it is more expensive, but reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such a cladding is carried out from the bottom up, while the support bar is attached below.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

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