Roller guides the easiest guides in terms of design and installation. The average price is 50-100 rubles. for a couple. Roller guides look like in the photo below, you probably saw them more than once.
Roller guides are covered with durable epoxy enamel, guides of different colors are on sale, the most common guides are cream colors. You can find roller guides for drawers with a depth of 250 to 800 mm, that is, for almost all cases.
Roller guides can withstand a dynamic load of up to 25 kg, you are unlikely to store something heavier in a chest of drawers or in a drawer in a wardrobe. The disadvantages of roller guides are the noise with which they move out and close, partial extension. But low price eliminates these shortcomings.
According to the installation diagram, the gap between outer part the side wall of the box and the side wall of the product body should be 12.5 mm or 25 mm on both sides, usually 26 mm is taken in the calculations. This means that the width of the box must be smaller. interior space pedestals 25-26 mm.
Ball guides
Ball guides, or else as they are called telescopic guides, capable of withstanding a large load, have a smooth ride. The cost of the guides is 300-400 rubles. for a couple. There are options with and without closers.
Ball guides as well as roller guides consist of two parts. One of them is attached to the box, the other to the side wall.
In order to disconnect them, you must press the latch, as shown in the photo.
You can, of course, establish without separating, but this torment is still something I had a chance to try on my own experience. As a result, a negative image of ball guides and the complexity of their installation can be formed. In fact, everything is simple.
Installation of ball guides by elements it is made on the side walls of the cabinet and the side of the box.
Most often, ball guides with a height of 45 mm are used, the size range of guides is from 250 to 700 mm, they can withstand a load of up to 36 kg, which is more than.
Calculation of the box on ball guides similar to the calculation of roller guides, the dimensions of the box in width are determined as the size of the inner space minus 26 mm (12.7 mm + 12.7 mm).
Metaboxes
Metaboxes - extension system based on roller guides. Metabox material is 1.2 mm steel coated with high-strength enamel. Price 300-400 rubles. per pair, produced by "Blum" in the region of 600-700 rubles.
Tandems
Tandem concealed runner technology ensures smooth running even for heavily loaded drawers. The drawer can be easily removed from the guides without tools.
Tandem is a smooth ride and full or partial extension. Drawers can be either with a built-in door closer or without. The tandem can be equipped with a Tip-on (push-on opening system). The cost of the guides is 1000-1500 rubles. for a couple.
On drawer guides Tandem can make a drawer under the sink. Since the sink has a convex part, which is located inside the body, the standard, that is, the straight design of the drawer is not suitable here. The convex part or bottom of the sink will prevent the drawer from closing. In this case, the bottom of the box is made with a cutout, the walls of the box made of chipboard are attached along the cutout. This whole structure is installed on Tandem guides.
Application tandem guides assumes the use of chipboard 16 mm thick, although solutions with using chipboard 18 mm thick.
The most expensive segment of the market for drawer guides. The sides of the box (drawers) are made of thin-walled steel, in contrast to tandems, where the body of the box is made of chipboard.
The kit includes fasteners to the front and fasteners to the back of the drawer. The detailing includes the bottom and the back wall made of chipboard, like a metabox. The guides are similar to tandems, they have smooth closing, with door closers.
Tandemboxes can be equipped with an opening system that does not require the installation of a handle on the facade, it is enough to easily press the facade with your hand.
Tandemboxes of various heights and variety of assortment significantly exceed the metaboxes. Let's consider an example blum tandemboxes.
Height N, drawer side height 68 mm, lowest drawer
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Height M, drawer side height 83 mm
Height C, drawer side height 115 mm
It is used for high facades, the back wall is enlarged, a gallery is also added. Minimum height internal space for the drawer 191 mm.
Height also D, drawer side height 83 mm
Used for high fronts, the back wall is also enlarged, but instead of two rails, the gallery with Boxside is an overlay on the drawer side. The minimum height of the inner space for the drawer is 224 mm. The solution is mainly for kitchen drawers, not for wardrobes.
Two triple tubular holders and tube rails allow you to make a special box on tandembox guides in the sink cabinet. Thanks to the cutout in the bottom, the drawer allows you to bypass the sink protruding into the cabinet.
One more interesting solution from Blum is the use of tandembox guides for a corner cabinet called Space corner.
The set of fittings includes a number of specific elements that are not found in other guides and, frankly, these fittings are not cheap. Space corner allows you to effectively use the corner space in the kitchen, and the use of ORGA line dividers further structure the storage space.
initially legrabox boxes positioned as elite products that were inaccessible to a mere mortal furniture maker. The point here was not at all in the price, but the price, by the way, is the highest in comparison with other advance systems, but in the complexity and accuracy of manufacturing the remaining parts from chipboard, the accuracy of milling the bottom of the box, the accuracy of drilling the side walls of the case and facades. Therefore, Legrabox boxes were offered to furniture companies that produce high-end furniture.
Installation, calculation and installation of guides for boxes
It is not enough to know what are the drawer guides, but the question arises, how to calculate and set guides.
The Internet provides a large number of methods and approaches in the calculation and installation of guides. I use a simple, easy-to-use program from Blum called DYNALOG, for design we use the DYNAPLAN module.
The program allows calculate roller guides, metaboxes, tandemboxes and tandems... As a result, we will receive a list of parts with dimensions, necessary fittings, drawings for drilling the side wall and facades. Special furniture programs are expensive, there is no point in mastering them and even more so buying if you want to make products for your home yourself.
As an example of a basic product, I will give a curbstone with a height of 616 mm, a width of 600 mm, a depth of 500 mm with overhead facades 200 mm high, chipboard boxes with a height of 150 mm, gaps between the facades 4 mm.
If we want to calculate installation of drawers in a sliding wardrobe, please note that with a cabinet depth of 600 mm and internal partition 500 mm, the calculation is carried out for inset facades, the facades will be inside between the side wall and the partition, as well as between the horizontal walls. It is better to make side gaps of 4 mm in the version of inset facades.
In this article you can familiarize yourself with step by step instructions installation of roller furniture guides. You can easily install the pull-out shelves yourself, from marking to adjustment.
Roller guides make it easy to move pull-out shelves... Roller guides are a simple and inexpensive mechanism to manufacture, however, the disadvantage of this system is noise and the calculation for a small weight of boxes. Otherwise, they begin to creak over time, the rollers break, the guides bend. An alternative to roller guides are guides full extension.
Full extension guides
Step-by-step instructions for installing roller guides
Begin mounting the roller rails by attaching the two rails to the bottom of the drawer. In this case, the roller itself should not be located at the facade, but at the rear wall of the box, the other end of the bar rests against the facade. It is more convenient to attach the bar with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the box, and not to the sides, despite the fact that holes are also provided in the side parts of the guides, since it is along the side that the second roller will move. Make sure that the caps of the screws do not protrude above the surface of the strip, as this will interfere with the movement of the box. The system has two types of holes: round and oblong. For beginner assemblers, we recommend the use of oblong holes, which allow for slight position adjustments.
Fastening another pair of guides to the cabinet or cabinet can be done in two ways:
1. Make careful measurements, mark the place for drilling holes for self-tapping screws, drill holes, apply a guide and fix it in at least three places.
2. Mark with a pencil the location of the guide, attach it to the mark and immediately fix it with self-tapping screws.
An important point - now the video should be on the side of the facade.
| 1. We fasten the guide with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the drawer. Roller from the back wall. |
| 2. The bar is fixed at at least three points. |
| 3. We measure the location of the second pairs of guides. The distance from the edge should be 2 mm. |
| 4. Measure the height of the guide. If you plan to fill the box with heavy objects, add to the height the location of the guide a few millimeters in order to compensate for the slight deflection of the bottom of the box. |
| 5. We fix the guides with self-tapping screws. |
| 6. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at three points. |
| 7. The roller is located at the front. | |
| 8. We insert the box. |
| falling out of the box with a sharp opening. To take out a drawer or insert it, a little lift the front of the drawer. |
| adjustment of furniture guides10. Check the smoothness of the drawer. Must not be rubbing and squeaking, the drawer slides out effortlessly. |
| The facade should not be skewed, it is tight adjacent to the case. If there is a slight bias or slit, you have the option to adjust the drawer with the aforementioned oblong holes for self-tapping screws. To do this, loosen the screw with a screwdriver. and slightly reposition the guide. Tighten self-tapping screw and check the facade and drawer movement again. |
Furniture guide installation, roller guides, furniture guide adjustment
Table of contents:
When assembling frame furniture, the most important point is the installation of guiding elements that ensure the drawer rollout. Such a fastener has a fairly simple design and consists of rollers and skids along which these rollers move. The runners are installed on the inside of the cabinet frame, and the rollers are attached directly to the sides of the box. Today, such guides are deservedly popular, since they have excellent wear resistance and have a fairly simple scheme installation.
The nuances of installing roller guides
In order for all the boxes to perfectly fit into the cabinet body, work on installing the guides should begin from the top of the furniture frame. In order to perform the work correctly and prevent damage to materials, the calculations should take into account the height of the box body, the thickness of the material from which the upper and lower base of the cabinet is made, as well as the height of the gap between all the boxes that make up the furniture. The gap between the drawers must be at least three millimeters.
The installation of the guides must be started from the top of the cabinet body. It is better to install runners on the inner walls of furniture even before the body is assembled. So you will greatly simplify your work and will be able to very accurately calculate the mounting points of the guides.
Installation of roller guides
Making calculations and preparing workplace you can start installing the roller guides. To begin with, mark on the inner side walls of the body where the runners are to be attached. At a distance of 2 cm from the front end of the case, fix the runners using special furniture screws. Using a square or tape measure, check the correct installation of each part and only then proceed with the installation of the rollers on the surface of the boxes. Roller guides are installed at the bottom of the drawer sides also using furniture screws. In order to avoid an error, carry out the work sequentially and start installing the runners on the next drawer only after you put the first drawer in the cabinet body and make sure that it fully extends and retracts without effort. 
In order for all the boxes to become in the curbstone, take into account the height of the head of the screws that are installed in the lower base of the case. Most often, approximately 3-4mm is left for such a gap. if you do all the work carefully and without haste, then as a result you will get a convenient functional cabinet with drawers in which you can conveniently store any personal belongings.
Today roller-type guides can be bought at any specialty store for a very affordable price... In order for you to have no difficulties when installing such elements, ask the seller the nuances of installing guides of a particular model or carefully study the manufacturer's instructions, which are most often attached to the product.
For a long time I was going to write a lesson on working with roller guides. Here, finally, I was honored. I have already laid out the additive schemes here in. Now just bare practice. For example, I will assemble a simple bedside table with three drawers.
Let's start with the boxes. They are assembled easily and simply on (a pair in each corner). The side walls are laid on, that is, on them, the confirmations are screwed into the face, and the front and rear walls are loose, that is, into their end.
Then we put the back wall in place, carefully align and pre-fasten with three studs (two in one wall and one in the adjacent one) so that the bottom does not move. 
After that, we turn the box over and use a tape measure or ruler to check its diagonals. They must be equal. 
If not, we pull out a lonely carnation, bend the box as it should and hammer it back. As soon as the geometry of the box is in line, the bottom can be screwed onto a permanent base (with self-tapping screws). Moreover, in the front and rear walls, simply self-tapping screws, and in the side walls we immediately attach the guide. First, we apply it, align and drill the holes with a thin drill. 
Then we screw self-tapping screws into these holes. 
We have finished with the boxes, let's move on to the marking of the racks. I use the following technique (minimum of math). So, first we mark on the front edge of the rack the boundaries of the facades with interfacial gaps. You can not apply the facades, but simply use the ruler, but this is clearer.
Please note that the lower facade is invoiced, that is, it covers the lower horizon, which means that it is necessary to retreat from the lower edge of the rack by 16 mm less.
Now we mark the guides themselves. To do this, you need to figure out how the drawers will be located: they should be closer to the lower edge of the facades, but not protrude beyond their dimensions, the guides on the drawers themselves are strictly below. For greater clarity, you can attach the rails to the racks and see how they will look (focusing on our facade marks). I usually step back 20 mm from the edge of the facade and draw a perpendicular to the front edge.
Set aside 37 mm on this perpendicular and prick this point with an awl (this is the center of the second hole on the guide.
We put it on the marking line so that it can be seen in all holes. We screw a self-tapping screw into the first hole, and on the pencil line (in the center of the hole in the guide) we prick another point. We also wrap a self-tapping screw in it (you can strengthen it with another one, but in this example we'll limit ourselves to a couple).
Note that the front edge of the rail is 2 mm from the edge of the rack.
We repeat this manipulation for all three pairs of guides (that is, for both racks).
In principle, the additive of the sliding system ends there, but we will finish the bedside table to the end.
We collect the box (we fasten the lower horizon with legs to the confirmations).
We put the back wall in the grooves, (we fix it with corners) we attach the upper horizon to the mounting corners (you can use minifixes, which is more difficult, but more accurate).
Set the middle horizon. Basically, the pedestal box is ready.
We install the boxes themselves inside the box. In the front walls, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws (for). For this, double-sided tape is glued. 
We mark and attach a handle-bracket to each facade. Screws must be used with a countersunk head, or deepen their caps) 
It remains to fix the facades themselves on the boxes. I have already described the technology in detail - I will not stop. 
In general, as a result of all the manipulations, we got such a simple and neat bedside table in the clinic. 
No matter how quickly progress progresses, the most popular today are telescopic or, as they are also called, full extension ball guides.
Who else does not know, they look like this:
Their advantages include:
- Relatively low cost;
- Smooth and most importantly quiet running throughout their entire service life;
- Ability to withstand significant loads;
- Excellent strength and wear resistance;
- Simplicity and ease of installation;
Guides of this kind are most often used as pull-out mechanisms for drawers of dressers, kitchen sections and many other mechanisms, with the operation of which the owners do not want to have problems during their operation.
Drawer parts calculation
In order to correctly position the full extension telescopic rails, you need to be sure whether you have done the correct detailing of the drawer.
An assembled box without a facade installed on it in width means that there should be a gap of 26 millimeters between the box and the side of the product, that is, 13 millimeters on each side. It is of these dimensions (13 millimeters) that the telescopic guides of full extension.
The length (depth) of the box should be 6-10 millimeters longer than the guides, which, as a rule, have a length of 25 to 80 centimeters in 5 centimeters increments. Thus, when installing the rails, place them in the middle of the box, leaving a minimum gap in front and behind the box. And also do not forget about a gap of at least 10 millimeters between back wall drawer and the back wall of the product (chest of drawers).
The height of the box is usually made based on its purpose and the needs of its owners who will use it. But, as a rule, in the aisles from 8 to 25 centimeters.
Marking of attachment points for telescopic guides
The process of installing telescopic full extension rails is much easier than it might seem to a person who first deals with them, so to speak, for the first time in his hands.
When you take the telescopes in hand, you can notice on it a kind of antennae, usually black, so if you squeeze and pull them in one half, then it will sort it into two parts, one from which is attached to the inner side of the chest of drawers, and the second to the side of the drawer.
By the way, you need to be extremely careful, since telescopes are right and left and they cannot be rearranged.
Your main goal is to define exact locations fastening the rails, fix each of the halves of the telescopes with three screws and carefully bring the drawer into the chest of drawers, thereby connecting the two parts of the telescopic rail into one piece.
Installation of telescopic ball guides
We make the layout of the drawer: horizontally, strictly in the center on both sides of the drawer, draw a line with a pencil, and screw one of the halves of the guide along it, or rather the thinnest one (the one that goes inside the guide). Similarly, you must mark the line along inside chest of drawers and screw on the telescopes.
The exact dimensions are indicated in or of another product you are working on. Layout and installation must be done, as shown in the figure below:
In our case, we mark on one sidewall 418 millimeters from the floor, and at this height we mount the telescope. In the same way, we make markings and fix the telescope on the second side of the chest of drawers.
Well, that's all the most hard work finished, then strictly along the marked line we fasten the halves of the guide to the sides of the chest of drawers and drawer, after which you can start the drawer in its place. It remains to establish furniture facades on the drawers and all the chest of drawers is ready.