Internal partitions are walls that do not perform a load-bearing function and serve only to separate rooms. Partitions in a wooden house are usually erected from wood so as not to violate the overall style of the building. But this is not important, if the interior design solution allows, you can build them from any materials, such as, for example, drywall or aerated concrete.
Requirements for partitions in a private house
All walls in the house are divided into load-bearing, self-supporting, fencing and partitions. Bearing walls must be strong and reliable, as other architectural elements rest on them. Self-supporting ones rest on a foundation and support their weight. The enclosing wall can be load-bearing or self-supporting. It must be not only durable, but also insulated.
Partitions, unlike the above types of walls, rely on ceilings and do not bear any load. Less stringent requirements are imposed on their strength and reliability indicators. However, these structures must have certain characteristics.
Baffles should be sufficient lungs... The less their weight, the less pressure on the foundation and floors, and this is reflected in the efficiency of the entire building.
Partitions should be thin... The thinner the dividing interior walls, the more economist the living space of the house is.
When calculating partitions, it is necessary to take into account that furniture and household appliances will be hung on them. Therefore, they must be strong.
Partitions act as dividing structures that must provide the premises with a sufficient level soundproofing.
Partitions in rooms with high humidity and sudden temperature changes should be constructed of materials that are not negatively affected by these factors. If they are erected from wood, then it is imperative to use effective protective impregnations.
Partitions in the house must have a high fire resistance.
It is very important to consider the need for laying electrical wires in the body of the septum or along it.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of internal redevelopment. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.
What materials are
For the construction of internal partitions, various building materials are used. The most commonly used brick, porous concrete or drywall.
Brick
Brick partitions are characterized by high strength. You can mount any shelves and brackets on them without fear that they will not stay on the wall. In addition, brick walls are a good sound insulator. So that they do not weigh the building so much, not an ordinary solid brick is used, but its porous analogue. But partitions in a house from a bar are rarely built from ceramics. The fact is that even porous bricks are too heavy for a wooden building. In addition, a brick wall requires painstaking leveling of the surface for finishing.
Aerated concrete and foam concrete
Aerated concrete blocks are available in various standard sizes. There are also special products for masonry partitions. They are lightweight and lightweight. But here there are also disadvantages - when hanging heavy interior elements, you need to use special dowels. Another important nuance is that cellular concrete is hygroscopic, and without additional protection it cannot be used to separate rooms with high humidity.
Drywall
It is the cheapest and most convenient material to use. For the construction of partitions, a metal frame is installed, which is then sheathed on both sides with thick sheets of drywall. The complexity of the operation of such structures in their low resistance to mechanical stress. It is impossible to mount shelves and equipment on the drywall itself. True, you can fix heavy elements directly to the metal frame.
With a sufficiently strong impact, the plasterboard wall cracks, as a result of which the damaged sheets must be replaced.
Gypsum slabs
Plaster and silicone material with tongue and groove connection system. Practical partitions with a smooth surface are very quickly erected from gypsum boards. It is also impossible to hang heavy objects on them just like that, but in terms of the degree of resistance to mechanical stress, this material is more attractive than ordinary drywall.
Partitions in a house made of timber
The density of the partitions should not exceed the density of the load-bearing walls, otherwise they will be too heavy in relation to the total mass of the building. At the same time, the timber from which the walls of log cabins are built belongs to light building materials. It is not recommended to build traditional brick and even not very heavy aerated concrete partitions in wooden houses. They can be erected from drywall or tongue-and-groove plates. But the best option is timber or frame partitions. Plank (panel) partitions can be installed in technical rooms.
Partitions from a bar
Lumber partitions allow you to maintain the harmony of the interior of the log house. They are erected from a material with a small thickness. But the height of the bar for the partitions should be the same as the material for the outer walls. This is necessary in order to facilitate the process of building partitions and increase the aesthetics of the interior of the premises.
The main advantages of timber structures:
rigidity;
strength;
good sound insulation.
However, it should be noted that all the advantageous characteristics of timber walls are reduced due to the presence of openings in them. An important advantage of bar partitions is their appearance, in which there is no need for additional decoration with finishing materials.
Such partitions are erected in the same way as the outer walls of a log house. Floor beams serve as the basis for the internal dividing walls. During the construction process, it must be remembered that the timber in the finished log house shrinks. This also applies to the material for the building box and the wood for the interior walls. It is more convenient to erect partitions at the same time as load-bearing walls. But if you are not sure that the timber for the walls and for the partitions has the same shrinkage coefficient, it is better to mount the partitions after the house has completely shrunk.
The number of timber and the type of connection between the partition and the wall is determined by the designer or builders. To protect the wood from moisture as much as possible, the bottom row of the partition is laid from moisture-resistant aspen or larch. In addition, the bottom row is insulated from a vapor-permeable film.
Finished timber partitions are sanded and covered with protective compounds along with the main walls. On partitions made of timber, you can safely mount heavy shelves and fastening systems for household appliances.
Frame partitions
This is a more economical and quick-to-assemble option. Such partitions consist of a frame and sheathing. The frame is constructed from vertical racks and horizontal bundles from a bar or non-planed board. You can use a metal frame as for drywall. The frame is fixed with hardware to the surface of the floor, load-bearing walls and ceiling. The finished frame is filled from the inside with any heat-insulating sheet material that will provide the wall with sufficient sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. The structure is sewn up with a board, timber or other material suitable for the interior design of a house under construction. The rigidity and strength of the frame partition remains unchanged regardless of the number of technical and door openings.
Despite the fact that partitions made of timber or using frame technology are erected quickly and with the help of a simple tool, only qualified specialists should be entrusted with this business. When working with wood materials, shrinkage processes must be taken into account, which depend on many factors. In addition, only a professional can securely fix all the elements of a wooden structure without damaging them.
Video description
Arrangement of a frame partition in a log house from a bar or log
Board partitions
A type of wooden curtain wall. The boardwalk differs from the timber partition in thickness, sound insulation and strength indicators, as well as in price. Usually, plank partitions are installed in utility and technical rooms, in which it is not necessary to maintain an ideal design.
This option has the principle of a frame partition. As a frame, boards are used, installed vertically or horizontally, depending on the characteristics of the room. Frame boards are sewn up with a planed board.
On our website you can see the most popular projects timber houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses Low-rise Country.
Conclusion
A log cottage is an environmentally friendly and comfortable housing in all respects. Interior walls in a wooden house should not disturb the harmony of the log cabin. That being said, they shouldn't be too expensive. In houses designed as a classic blockhouse, it is better to install timber partitions. If the cottage is conceived in a modern style, dividing walls with a smooth surface can be made in it to provide designers with the opportunity to create an original stylish interior.
A wooden blockhouse is a complex of load-bearing walls made of logs, which form external and sometimes 1-2 internal enclosing structures. If the purpose of the building is a residential building, inside you will need to install interior fences that will divide the space into living zones.
Features of fences
A partition in a wooden frame can be installed only after the house has completely shrunk, when the risk of its deformation and destruction as a result of this process is reduced. Usually, the building is allowed to rest after assembly for 1-2 years, after which you can proceed with the installation of the internal parts of the layout. The structure is not load-bearing, it only takes its own weight, therefore it does not require a reinforced frame and a separate foundation.
The main difference between the partition and the wall is that the former can be easily dismantled without damaging the floor and ceiling, if the owners decide to change the layout and put the fence in a different place.
The qualities that an interior fence should have:
- Ease of material and construction;
- Environmental safety, which is very important when choosing a material for fencing residential areas in a wooden house;
- Thermal insulation;
- Noise protection from adjacent premises;
- The partition must cope with the suspension of some household appliances and furniture on it. This should be taken into account in advance when choosing a design and cladding material.
In most cases, an interior fence can be installed independently without the involvement of specialists.
Varieties
What type of interior fence to choose:
Frame partitions in a log house are a common and most affordable type of interior fencing that you can install yourself. They consist of a wooden frame, insulation and sheathing. Their main feature is the variety of possible configurations during installation. A frame fence can divide the space into zones of different shapes. In case of redevelopment, the structure can be easily disassembled and transferred to another place for further service.
Joiner's (panel) wooden partitions for a log house are just as good as frame ones. They are ready-made panels that need to be installed on the frame rails. Partitions often do not require additional finishing, they can be varnished, colored composite materials with drawing. Their disadvantage is low sound insulation, although this parameter can be adjusted when ordering, purchasing or manufacturing, choosing a suitable option for yourself according to the characteristics.
The cost of a carpentry partition depends on the type of construction and materials used and starts from 250 rubles / m2 to 1500 rubles / m2 and more.
Solid partitions without a frame are attached to the ceiling and floor guides by the nail method or screwed onto the screws. To disassemble such a structure, you will have to remove all fasteners for individual boards or panels.
Do-it-yourself partition in a log house
With independent construction, there is no desire to resort to the services of specialists in such a matter as the installation of partitions in the frame of a wooden house. Let's analyze the method of building each type of enclosing structure.
Frame construction
For assembly, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Beam for the frame. Its width can be 60-100 mm, depending on the desired size of sound insulation and the type of insulation chosen. The height of the bar is within 40-50 mm.
- Slats - Spacers can be smaller than frame bars. Their purpose is to maintain the rigidity of the structure and fix the insulation.
- Vapor barrier material, if such a layer is not provided in the insulation.
- Thermal insulation. For residential premises, it is optimal to use slab materials: mineral wool, foam, basalt.
- For fastening - self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, nails and a hammer can be used, if the material to be fastened allows their use.
Stages of work:
- The location of the partition is marked and the lower trim is mounted. To do this, the block is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws or screws. It is immediately necessary to provide for the location of the doorways.
- Strictly above the lower harness, the upper belt is attached in the same way, only there is no need to leave a gap under the opening.
- Installation of vertical racks. It is convenient to start from the opening and mount the timber with a step not exceeding the width of the insulation plate. Fastening with self-tapping screws or on corners to the upper and lower strapping. The side posts are attached directly to the wall.
- Now you need to make a doorway. The side pillars are already installed, you need to attach the top jumper.
- Spacers are inserted just above the middle of the height and fastened with self-tapping screws. You can do otherwise: measure the room and assemble the frame on the floor, then raise it and attach it to the ceiling and wall.
- Now you can sheathe one side of the wall so that the installed insulation takes its place during laying. It is advisable to stretch a membrane or film on the frame, which will protect the heat insulator from moisture. This issue is especially relevant when fencing kitchens and bathrooms. The film can be stapled to the frame posts. On top of the vapor barrier, the partition is sheathed with sheet materials (MDF, GKL) or a board, clapboard. The joints of the elements should be in the middle of the vertical rack. When one side is ready, we put the insulation slabs inside the frame. It is necessary to place them in such a way that there are no gaps in the insulation to improve the effect of sound absorption.
- Sheathing of the second side according to the same principle: vapor barrier, cladding.
This type of barriers can be installed in any houses: brick, concrete, stone, frame.
Joinery partitions
Shield screens can be bought ready-made or made by yourself. In the first case, you can significantly save time on assembling the product and its subsequent finishing, but you will not be able to save money. It is better to make and install shields on your own before laying the finished floor so that the structure can be fixed on the logs. How to make a partition in a log house yourself:
- The dimensions of the future structure are being removed. The length is divided into several parts that need to be made. The easiest way is to make a shield out of planks. It can be double or triple (according to the number of plank rows). To do this, according to the principle of a frame partition, a jumper is made from a bar, onto which flat boards are stuffed on both sides, between which you can lay insulation with foil: it is able to slightly damp noise and retain heat inside the room. Instead of foil, you can take ordinary insulation material (mineral wool, penoplex). The shield can be single, then the boards are made end-to-end to each other and guide rails are nailed along the lower and upper edges.
- On the ceiling and on the logs (on the floor), you need to make grooves to hold the shields. To do this, the bars are nailed or screwed in 2 rows, the distance between which is equal to the thickness of the partition or the width of the shield together with the retaining extreme rails.
- Shields are inserted into the grooves.
Carpentry structures can reach up to the ceiling or be below its level by 50-60 cm. These could be found in houses built in the 20th century in rooms with high ceilings such as hostels and administrative offices of ordinary employees.
Panel joinery and frame partitions are similar in design, if the first are made of 2 or 3 rows of boards.
Frameless design
In essence, a frameless fencing is similar to a shield one:
- 1) Guide bars are nailed to the ceiling and floor;
- 2) Boards are attached to the ceiling and floor beams, which are sheathed with plasterboard or other panel or finishing material.
Such a partition cannot have insulation. Instead of boards, plastic or composite panels can be chosen.
Other options
Partitions can be not only static, but also movable. Their independent production can be troublesome and costly, but with an understanding of the technology of their work, an experienced craftsman will be able to cope with this task.
Movable screens are sold complete with guides and all fasteners, therefore it is advisable to purchase a ready-made system. What types are these constructions:
- In thresholdless systems, the canvases move parallel along the ceiling profile;
- In rail tracks, partitions move along two rails on the floor and ceiling;
- Folding canvases are folded like an accordion, moving along the ceiling and floor profiles.
Each system has an instruction according to which a movable fence is installed. It is convenient to install this in several cases:
- For zoning large rooms;
- To distinguish between kitchen and room in a studio apartment;
- To delimit space in one-room apartments.
Sliding canvases of partitions will be useful in cases where it is necessary to visually delimit the space. There is no talk of any sound insulation and heat preservation.
If you want to independently make a sliding partition in a wooden house from a log house, it is worth repeating the principle of operation of ready-made systems and making appropriate floor and ceiling profiles, and making canvases. Fasteners and roller mechanisms still have to be purchased.
The main thing to consider
Static and sliding partitions for a log house can be made and installed independently, lightweight structures will optimally fit into rooms with wooden walls and floors. In addition, structures are easily attached to wood and adhere well to it.
The main thing to remember is that maintaining verticality and dimensional accuracy is the key to successful work. If the ceiling and floor rails are not attached parallel to each other, the railing will be slightly skewed. Mobile systems are especially sensitive to accuracy. If the profiles are not attached parallel, the canvases simply will not move or the process will be difficult.
08.01.2016 1 CommentAny house throughout the entire period of operation can be subject to changes, rebuilding, redevelopment. This can be due to a change of ownership or a change in the composition of the family. The problem can concern houses of any design, including buildings made of wood. The article will tell you how to make partitions in a wooden house.
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general information
The partition should be made after the house has shrunk.... It is considered a self-supporting structure and its main purpose is to form the interior or rooms. It should be characterized by good sound insulation and thermal conductivity. Internal partitions do not fulfill global design goals, they do not have a special load. They are not even always included in the project at home.
Building codes prohibit the use of internal partitions as support for floors. A partition built outside the plan must be able to be easily disassembled and dismantled. The developer, the owner of the house will be interested in the problem of what to make partitions in a wooden house.
Partition material
There are many options for the material, but you must immediately exclude the use of bricks, cinder blocks and other building stone. First, it's pointless. Secondly, for the construction of such a powerful partition, a foundation will be needed. In our case, it is hardly available. Materials for partitions in a wooden house are varied. There are a number of typical options:
- Wooden, standard partitions... This type is the most convenient, reliable and functional. These partitions will perfectly ennoble the house and give it comfort. Wooden partitions are durable, with their participation you can mount wall ceilings, hang shelves and cabinets, racks. Such a structure can be plastered or decoratively processed. Such a wall is easily exposed to fire treatment and anti-rotting agents, which is very desirable.
- Plasterboard partitions... They are economical, lightweight and inexpensive. These partitions are quickly erected and form seamless surfaces. Drywall has good sound insulation properties and fire resistance. The free space inside the wall can be used for electrical wiring and other utilities. The material is environmentally friendly.
- Frame-panel partitions... This is the most common and practical type of construction. For manufacturing, a beam of 50 × 50 mm is required. For increased noise insulation, a beam of 50 × 100 mm is used. You can apply a profile. You can sheathe such a structure with plasterboard, plywood. Not the best option - fiberboard.
- Solid partitions... They have a very heavy construction and are made of boards. If the boards are more than 50 mm thick, additional support in the form of a log will be needed. It will compensate for the weight of the baffle. The boards are mounted vertically, in the prepared grooves - from above and below. The sectional structure has the letter "P". A gap of no more than 2 centimeters is left at the top in case of subsidence. Boards can be sheathed or decorated with wood stain and varnish.
- Glass partitions... There are many available designs for glass partitions and sliding doors. They can also be used on the veranda or terrace. With their help, you can easily and quickly modify the parameters of the room.
- Designer partitions... During their construction, the principle of the space of options works, this is an opportunity for a creative person to show their design abilities. Wood, plastic, metal profile, chipboard, paper can be used as material. This is a great opportunity to separate part of the room and use partitions. Forged and fabric partitions can be attributed to designer partitions.
What partitions are there in a wooden house if it has more than one floor? In this case, it is necessary to proceed from the bearing capacity of the floor on which the partition will rest. In this situation, the principle works - the easier the better. A strength calculation will be required. Even if the ceilings withstand the partition, they can bend and change the geometry of the structure. Additional support or reinforcement will be required.
Basic requirements and wishes for the device
The main requirement for any building structure is safety. It must be securely fixed, exclude the possibility of falling, destruction. All fasteners, if possible, should be capable of being disassembled. This will make your work easier if you decide to make a rearrangement or redevelopment. It is advisable to maximize the use of low-combustible materials, pay a lot of attention to fire safety. The material for partitions should be environmentally friendly, moisture resistant, and aesthetic.
How to make partitions in a wooden house
Installation of frame partitions
Their installation begins with laying a horizontal bar on the floor. The dimensions of the timber should correspond to the dimensions of the future partition. Then the vertical post is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws to the wall. The lower end is abutted against the edge of the horizontal bar. The next step is to determine the point on the ceiling where the edge of the plumb line will be located. For this task, you need a plumb line.
After mounting the horizontal elements, install the vertical ones. The standard distance between them is 55 centimeters. But this is not a dogma, it is necessary to take into account the design features of the material and the overall size of the wall, its height. Nowadays, an aluminum building profile is actively used as a frame. The docking itself is carried out in the middle of the racks. Plasterboard sheets, plywood, fiberboard are used as cladding. Here, the hygroscopicity of the material is taken into account. The space between the cladding inside the frame is filled with a sound-insulating substance - foam or mineral wool.
The first stage is marking the lines of our partition. A plumb line is great for this. Then the design of the guides is prepared. Two bars are attached to the board, located in parallel. Nails or screws (self-tapping screws) are used as fasteners. The distance between the guides should be equal to the thickness of the future wall. If the boards are cut correctly and inserted into the guides, only the outermost one can be fastened.
The rest will be deprived of the opportunity to move freely. When constructing interior partitions in a wooden house, the future wall can be sheathed with plywood, fiberboard or chipboard sheets. You can perform a capital option by lining them with shingles and plastering. Then an additional lag must be present in the structure, which will hold the heavier structure.
Installation of plasterboard walls
How to make interior partitions in a wooden house from plasterboard correctly? The main advantage of drywall in this task is the ability to level the walls. The job can be done very quickly. It is important to consider that a wooden house almost always shrinks. This should not affect or destroy the drywall. Work begins with marking, drawing a line of the future wall on the ceiling. Then they project it onto the floor using a plumb line.
The frame is made using an aluminum profile. Less commonly, wooden beams are used, although the design is cheaper and more environmentally friendly. With the direct installation of drywall sheets, it must be borne in mind that the structure will move slightly. If the sheets are mounted tightly end-to-end, they will collapse. Small gaps should be left to compensate for expansion due to temperature and humidity. As a base for installation, the following can be used:
- walls made of wood,
- wooden slats,
- wooden beams,
- lathing made of wood,
- frame made of wood,
- the wooden wall itself or the floors.
There are several methods of attaching the drywall itself to the rail. This will require dowels, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a file, an electric or mechanical drill. A beam with a section of 50 × 100 mm or 50 × 74 mm will be used for the role of rails. The optimal place for fastening is in the middle of the rail or bar. The best gap between the screws is 15 cm. The fasteners should be slightly buried in the drywall. The joints should ideally be sealed with an adhesive reinforcing film. If the dimensions of the joints turned out to be more than 3 mm, then they should be putty, and then sealed with reinforcing tape.
When installing wall partitions made of glass and other material, all of the above principles are used. And the installation of designer partitions depends only on the design itself and is developed directly by the designer or architect.
Making partitions in a wooden house with your own hands, you can perfectly show your abilities and building talents. These works are easy to perform with little installation skills and abilities. The main thing is ingenuity, logical thinking, adherence to the simplest building rules. If you make mistakes, it will not be difficult to redo and correct them. Well, there should be no consequences, except for wasting on spoiled material.
Erection of a partition in a wooden house: video instruction
The video shows what nuances should be taken into account when building partitions in a wooden house.
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We buy a house, and we see rooms in it that are not planned out the way we need them. The area of the combined rooms is not the same, the partition is not located there. Inconvenient ...
What should we demolish the existing internal brick wall and build another?
Local conditions hinder us. It is impossible to build masonry in a new place, on a wooden floor, for this you need to remove the floor and lay out supports - concrete or brick pedestals that will carry a serious load from a brick wall.
The way out is the construction of a less massive, but no less functional wooden partition. Additional supports are not needed for it.
Initial data
We broke the existing partition into one brick
and we got such a huge space, which we will have to divide in our own way: 
View from here 
View from there
The technology of self-erection of a wooden partition
Nothing complicated, this is the simplest construction set that adults love to play. The most important thing is to determine the vertical of the wall, and the second most important thing is to set the lower and upper guides.
Guides
We attach a central block vertically to the wall, which we fiercely control the level several times:
In order not to immediately "cut", you need to hammer (not completely) into the wall just one nail or wrap one long screw - approximately in the middle of the bar. On it, you will rotate and adjust the bar according to the level. After each hammered nail, apply a level, checking if the vertical has shifted:
As a result, the bar is fixed firmly to the wall, the distance between the fasteners should be no more than 600 mm. From each edge of the bar, respectively - no more than 300 mm.
Further, strictly observing the vertical, the lower and upper guides from a bar of the same section are installed in the same way. It will not be difficult to nail a block to the wooden floor and wooden ceiling in a private house, so there is no need to paint events.
If you have such an opportunity that the floor is with a screed (which is unlikely in the living room) and the ceiling is made of concrete ceilings - well, then use a puncher and dowel-nails.
And then the choice of material depends on the desired wall thickness. I decided that 100 mm would be very enough for me, so I put another small bar of 25 mm on each side on a 50 mm bar, and I already installed the plates on them.
The boards are used polished chipboard. You can take unpolished chipboard, plywood, OSB and any other materials of your choice. Just think - is it worth it to pay so much for a similar quality?
Do not be afraid of wood in terms of great sound transmission. We chose this technology in order to deprive the wooden structure of this great negative quality. It will be clear further.
Further actions
As you wish!
He will still be inside, he is not visible. Whatever they write and say about typical frame forms, this is your hut. For example, I was reluctant to maintain strict squares and spend extra energy on it on sawing bars and extra bars, in fact. Money needs to be saved, although there is a lot of it.
There is no need to achieve super monolithicity and incredible strength of the frame itself from the bars. A wooden plate screwed to it will significantly strengthen the connections, serving as an additional plane and a very strong stiffener. And the second slab, on the other hand, will firmly secure the future partition.
Having assembled a timber frame of an arbitrary non-square shape, we attach one lower plate to it:
This is the "inside" view of the wall. Pay attention to the location of the guides: inside the wall near the frame, the vertical is not only not observed, but even maliciously violated. That does not prevent the wall itself from remaining flat and vertical, but it allows you to seriously save on expensive bars.
And here is the view from the other side:
There are horizontal main guides in the frame, they are located in the middle - to give stability and the ability to "tie" to them, mounting auxiliary ones.
It's a whole slab, I haven't even cut or trimmed around the edges. Fortunately, you have the strength to carry it yourself, without helpers. If you are working alone, as a construction hermit, it is recommended that you either calculate forces or saw slabs to make it easier and more comfortable to carry. But in this case, you need to prepare the frame accordingly - so that each plate is sufficiently fixed at the ends. And for this you need to take into account the dimension of the workpieces.
Don't forget to check your vertical!
After that, we fix the second solid slab:
Inside view"
Outside view
There is very little left from above - here you cannot do without measurements and trimming. As well as at the end of the wall, where you will need to cut out additional elements.
In total, the wall will take 2 whole slabs on each side, 2 "halves" on each side (sawn strictly in half), plus one for all additional ones.
A total of seven on a wall 4 meters long with a ceiling height of 2.75 m, plan when calculating the cost of materials.
Soundproofing
There is nothing better when someone cares about you. For example, manufacturers of high-quality mineral wool insulation, which are also soundproofing material.
Such heaters-sound insulators are made taking into account the performance of several functions, therefore, there is no need to look for sound insulation separately. The question is in additional convenience - materials sold in rolls are not as convenient to mount as tiled forms. They need to be unwound, cut, while it is not always possible to observe the thickness of the mineral wool - it delaminates.
Plates of a specific size are easier to cut and easy to assemble as a whole.
Inside the finished frame, trying to tightly press the material against the already mounted plates, we put heat and sound insulation:
Then we repeat the operations with the chipboard on the other side of the wall, and we get an almost complete structure:
When asked about the method of fastening and the number of hardware on a chipboard sheet, I answer:
1. Fasten with self-tapping screws for wood with a length of at least 35 mm.
2. Be sure to fix the board around the edges.
3. The step along the edges must be at least 600 mm.
4. In the center, fix the slabs so that they are firmly in place. There is no need to look for non-existent technologies, especially since we have already violated them when we mounted a non-standard frame.
Joints and mates
Is everyone on this?
With a wooden structure, yes. Everything is clear there, but I won't even talk about how to measure and saw. Measure with a tape measure, saw with a saw. Or an electric saw.
But there is one caveat: it is better to process the joints of chipboards right away, more precisely, to putty. So that moisture, which does exist in the air, does not penetrate into the cuts and does not force them to be saturated and swell. When you will finally finish the partition is still unknown, and you do not need "swollen" joints at all.
In order to qualitatively and evenly fill the joints and interfaces of the plates with the walls, you need to use such simple materials as self-adhesive mesh and corners, plastic or aluminum.
Putty mesh
At the end of the work, when the mesh has dried and fixed, I preferred the entire wall, which I highly recommend to you:
As you can see, the joints are almost imperceptible - they are one solid surface.
You can make the internal layout of a house or apartment using partitions that divide the space into functional zones. Timber walls are ideal for wooden buildings. They are durable and dense, perfectly conserve heat and protect from extraneous sounds. We will learn how to make a partition from a bar correctly, how to mount such a structure so that it will serve for a long time and reliably.
The construction of a partition element from a bar is greatly facilitated by the fact that this does not require either the work of designers or an additional foundation tape. The beam belongs to light materials that do not create a special load on the support.
The functionality of a timber wall in an apartment is based on its strength. As a rule, the partition has reliable support at the bottom (floorboards, logs). When installing a solid bulkhead, it is possible to do without additional fastening to the floor.
The advantages of a partition in a house made of timber can also include:
It is also important to note that the profiled timber has a natural beauty that allows you to save on decorative finishes.
Assembling the timber partition
The timber is produced mainly from hardwood. In cross-section, it looks like a square or rectangle.
For the construction of partitions, a profile with a cross section from 30x30 mm to 100x150 mm is often used.
To build a really reliable bulkhead from a bar with your own hands, if necessary, performing the function of a support for a variety of decorative elements, you need to know some nuances.
Features of laying timber
Before starting the installation of partitions from a bar, it is necessary to choose the right material for them.
The tree must be dried to a certain moisture content (no more than 15%), otherwise the partition may deform during shrinkage.
In addition, mandatory impregnation with special agents is required to prevent the appearance of decay and cracks on the material.
There are several subtleties that suggest how to make partitions from a bar:
| An important point | How to do it? |
| Arrangement of waterproofing. | The construction starts from the bottom bar, on top of which it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing material. This helps to prevent the damaging effects of moisture that constantly accumulates at the bottom of the bulkhead, for example, when cleaning floors or due to breakthrough of drainage pipes. It is recommended to use aspen or larch timber for laying the starting row, since these species have the greatest resistance to moisture. |
| Improving thermal insulation and sound insulation. | Before laying the next row, tow or jute fiber is laid on top of the previous one. The connection of the main wall to the bulkhead is insulated with the same material. |
| The rigidity of the structure. | Each row is attached to the previous one. The bars are fixed using wooden or iron dowels. The dowel is installed with a step of 1.5 m, and a distance of 15 cm from the corners. The dowels are staggered. |
After installation, the bulkhead is sanded together with the main walls and an antiseptic primer is applied. The inner wall can be erected during the main construction of the house or after.
Joining the timber to the main wall
The features and solution of fixing the partition element in a wooden house with your own hands depend on carpentry skills. First method: cut grooves in the log house.
With the help of a pencil and a level, two vertical lines are drawn on the wall at a distance equal to the width of the timber.
Then a careful gash is made along each line with a depth of 50 mm, and the middle is removed with an ax or chisel. A bar is inserted into the resulting groove.
If there is not enough experience to produce an even cut in a log house, you can resort to a simpler method: the partition is attached to the load-bearing wall using nails driven in at an angle.
The main stages of installation
To build a partition from bars with your own hands, you need to prepare tools.
The minimum set includes:
- axe;
- electric drill with a drill for wood;
- circular saw;
- roulette;
- level;
- a hacksaw for wood;
- hammer;
- wide chisel.
It is also important to choose the right lumber, and also facing for the frame sheathing.
Timber frame partition
Interior frame partitions can be mounted on a timber base. The frame is constructed from bars with a section of 5x5 cm.
It can be faced with plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheets, chipboard and fiberboard, plywood. After that, such an internal bulkhead is decorated with any materials.
The construction of such internal partition elements is possible anywhere in the house, regardless of the location of the foundation.
The construction of frame partitions in a house can be done in two ways:
| Building type | Installation method |
| Any (the walls are not necessarily wooden). | It is possible to use a pre-assembled timber frame. It only needs to be fixed on the floor, walls and ceiling, for example, using dowel-nails. |
| Log house | The partition can be erected on site. To do this, first, the walls, ceiling and floor are marked at the place where the structural element will be installed. Further, along the marking lines, the bars are fixed with long screws, which serve as the main frame of the frame. After installing them, it remains to collect the rest. For fastening vertical and horizontal bars to the frame, it is recommended to use metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws. |
For better preservation of heat in the room, the voids in the frame must be lined with foam, mineral wool, and other insulating material. Installation of a frame bulkhead is also possible in the bath. But do not forget that there is a high temperature - there should be no metal parts located on the surface.
The wood frame base is attractive due to the availability of the material and the ease of erection of the wall.
The timber lends itself well to processing, which allows you to assemble the frame of the partition element of any configuration.
If it is supposed to build a bulkhead, then it will be necessary to build a wall from two planes.
Installation of a one-piece partition using a bar frame
Let us analyze how to correctly install frame partitions in a house from a bar:
When erecting a double frame under a beam of 100x100 mm, the marking is carried out in this way. On the wall adjacent to the bulkhead, a straight vertical line is drawn along the level. From it, indents are made on each side of 50 mm and two more parallel lines are marked. Further, using the same method, mark the ceiling, floor and opposite wall. Along these lines, bars of the frame base with a section of 50x50 mm are exposed and fastened with long self-tapping screws with a pitch of 400-500 mm. The result is a double bar frame with a gap of 100 mm.
A beam of the future bulkhead is installed in this gap with its ends. But first, a jute tape is laid on the floor under the frame. The starting bar is fixed with dowels 200-300 mm long. In the floor and the lower part of the timber, holes are drilled for dowels with a distance of 150 mm from the main wall on each side and a step of one and a half meters.
When laying the second row, holes are also drilled into which dowels are inserted, nailed into the first beam. Jute insulation is placed between the bars. In this way, the entire partition is laid from floor to ceiling.
Mounting with tongue and groove
The joining of the beams using the thorn-groove method is permissible in a house made of profiled elements.
How to make a partition from a bar in this case:
If an opening is assumed in the partition element, then it is required to install additional stiffeners, which are attached to the upper beams using metal corners.
Mounting in a groove without tenons
This is another way to connect the timber.
Groove-toothed profiled timber joints In this method, the construction of the wall is carried out according to the following technology:
- A vertical line is drawn on the wall to which the bulkhead will be attached. An indent from it is made half the width of the profile on each side of the line. For example, the width of the bar is 100 mm, then 50 mm retreat and two more parallel straight lines are drawn.
- A groove with a depth of 30-50 mm is cut along the extreme lines.
- A jute tape is placed in this groove and the ends of the bar are inserted.
- The beam is laid in the same way as when installing with spikes, using dowels and a jute seal
After completing the assembly, the wall is poured with jute. When insulating during installation with high-quality flax fiber tape, this is not required.
When designing a house from a bar, partition elements are positioned in such a way as to obtain a minimum number of walk-through rooms.
Modern programs can create a three-dimensional model, which helps to assess how convenient the placement of rooms will be, and where it is best to install doorways.
