Each master is faced with the problem of how and on what to fix the assembled doors. To install the finished door block, it is possible to use various installation methods. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the right one for yourself. You will need a small set of tools such as a drill, hammer, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also, to directly fix the box in the opening, you need fasteners and mounting foam. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.
The main stages of installing a door block
At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then press this structure away from the opening. If anchor bolts were used during the installation of the old box, nails that cannot be unscrewed can be cut off using a grinder.
Before installing the interior door frame, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the wall box does not deepen in the opening. This is necessary to fit the door trim. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the opening errors.
First, the installations are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location of the level so that the box is level with the door.
Working with mounting foam
It is important to know that the foam that is designed for the gun is much better and more convenient to use due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam, which is fed with a straw in a large amount, it will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to cover the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know that you need to start foaming with the fixation of individual small sections. After 30 minutes, you can already go through the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a large amount of foam, because during expansion the foam will squeeze the box inside. We recommend using professional foams.
Since the tree shrinks and expands precisely because of the increased humidity, the consequence of expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door simply stops closing for this reason.
Video on possible door mounting methods
There are several ways to fasten the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of a special type of fastening. Various fastening options provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope the video stories on the options for installing wooden door frames will help you.
Hidden way to install doors on foam
The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used for fixing, and the correct location is checked by the building level. Foaming with mounting foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is kept almost thanks to the foam alone.
To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small spacers of 3 mm are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can be removed only when the foam dries. Usually the door is left overnight.
This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.
Installing doors with clamps or spacers
The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use inside for temporary fastening of the door block in the opening of the spacer. It can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.
Both of these methods are very good for light and small doors.
Fastening doors with Knauf hangers
For these purposes, Knauf's direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best fit.
- First you need to screw the plates to the box.
- Insert the door into the opening.
- Adjust the level.
- We mark the places under the recess in the wall.
- We make a sample under the plate.
After that, we set according to the level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden bars.
It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess will definitely need to be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is good only when there is no fine finish.
New mounting options
This video will let you know how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door frame by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of self-tapping screws that are located at the ends of the opening. This happens with the help of metal plates with a hole, which are screwed on the outside of the box.
To achieve the final fixation of the frame in the doorway, the usual means of adjustment are used.
With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.
A clear advantage of this method is the full possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation while maintaining the original appearance of the box and the external finish of the wall. 
Concealed installation, fastening under hinges
As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the loop and fastened through it to the wall. From the side of the lock, another mount is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.
After fixing directly, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and fill all the gaps with foam.
A significant advantage of this method is the relative rigidity, the preservation of appearance.
Through-hole fastening on anchors or screws
This is the most common standard installation option for interior doors. For this mounting option, first, holes for anchors are drilled in the right places of the racks, then the door is fixed in the opening.
Training
- Marking 4 anchors on each side.
- Drilling with a pen 14 mm to a depth of 10 mm (space for a plug).
- We drill a through hole with a 10 mm pen (a place for fixing with an anchor).
After that, the box is exposed and the concrete under the anchor is drilled with a 10 mm drill. When the box rests on its anchors, it holds securely and does not require any spacers. The attachment points can be hidden by installing decorative caps of the desired color, size (14 mm). Screws can be used instead of anchors, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. The use of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) a curved rail. Doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs. 
Tricks when installing door extensions
Conclusion
There are many options for installing an interior door frame, but you should choose the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be affected by which opening the installation takes place, take into account the intensity and other factors.
Almost any novice master who has minimal experience with a level and a hacksaw is able to cope with the installation of an interior door. No special skills are required here. It is quite possible to install a door block in your house yourself. It is only necessary to measure everything correctly before installation, and during the assembly process, make sure that distortions do not form.
Necessary materials and tools
A large set of tools and consumables for installing a wooden interior door is not required. This is not a sewerage, electrical or plumbing device in a private home. In the case of a door block, all consumables (anchor bolts, self-tapping screws, carnations, handles and canopies) are already included in the product delivery set. Additionally, you will need to purchase only mounting foam.
Installing the doors yourself is not so difficult, but nevertheless this work requires attention and certain skills.
To install an interior door, from the tools you will need:
- a hacksaw with a small tooth;
- building level;
- tape measure with a pencil;
- screwdriver (screwdriver);
- chisel;
- a hammer.
You will also need small thin pieces of wood for spacers so that the door does not jam after foaming. Mounting foam in air expands two to three times. So that the canvas and jambs do not lead during its application, it will be necessary to first insert wedges in several places for the time of setting and solidification of the adhesive.
Step-by-step instruction
If the installed interior doors fit exactly under the existing opening, then it is recommended to install them at the final stage of repairing a cottage or apartment. Then, when the ceiling is already whitewashed and wallpaper is pasted. But if the doorway needs to be expanded, then doing this work is at the stage of rough finishing. A lot of dirt and dust is formed when breaking walls.
Step-by-step instructions for installing interior doors
Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is done in six steps:
- Box assembly.
- Installing loops.
- Canopy of the door leaf.
- Threshold and dobor installation.
- Platband fastening.
- Installation of door fittings (locks and handles).
Box assembly
When studying which pipes are best for plumbing and easier to install, you have to consider many metal and plastic options. With door blocks for interiors is much easier. Almost all of them are made from lumber. Constructions made of plastic or aluminum in private homes are extremely rare. As a result, when installing interior doors, you only have to work with wood, which is not so difficult.
Types of door frames
There are two ways to assemble a wooden door frame:
- cutting the corners of the upper crossbar and vertical racks at 45 degrees;
- connection of crossbeams and racks end-to-end without corner cutoffs.
The first option looks more elegant. However, the second one is simpler in self-cutting. Only with it you need to be very careful when cutting the side on the upper crossbar so that the vertical bars stand up evenly and without gaps. At the same time, it is recommended to choose the method of assembling the outer frame of the interior door, depending on the interior design.
Required dimensions and tolerances for assembling the door frame
To prevent the canvas from sitting too tightly in the box, when cutting the crossbar, lay 3 mm additionally on the left and right. Fastening of horizontal and vertical parts is carried out in the corners from above with self-tapping screws into the end of the racks from the outside. And so that when screwing in these screws, the bars of the box do not crack, you must first drill into the holes with a thin drill (a millimeter thinner than the fasteners).
At the same time, the carrier rack, where the hinges will be, should not be pulled rigidly to the end at this stage of the installation of the door. It should only be slightly fixed in place.
Hinge installation
The hinges are first hung on the canvas with an indentation from above and below by 200–250 mm. Hinges at interior doors are laid on ("butterflies") and secret. It is enough to attach the first to the end with the inner small part and fix it with self-tapping screws. And for the second, you will have to pre-cut the grooves.
Necessary measurements for installing hinges
Next, the canvas is inserted into a box laid on the floor. And the marking of the attachment points of the loops on the racks is made. But first, pieces of wood (pieces of fiberboard) 3 mm thick must be inserted between the end of the canvas and the details of the box, so that there are then gaps.
Then the carrier rack, which is not fully tightened, is unscrewed from the crossbar and loops are screwed to it. And then it is put in place and finally fixed with self-tapping screws.
Installing the door leaf
After the almost completely assembled interior door should be placed in the opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally using a level. To fix the block in the desired position, wedges and pieces of wood are used.
Sealing of cracks, holes and installation of dobor
It is allowed to leave a gap between the outer side of the block and the end of the wall with a thickness of 0.5 to 3 cm. But if the house is wooden, then this gap should be at least 1.5 cm in case of shrinkage of the log house.
Extension options for interior doors
The box is fastened with anchor bolts, which are placed under the hinges and the lock plate. To do this, first, holes are drilled in the vertical racks on both sides to the wall. Then the block is removed and the interior partition itself is drilled. If you work with a drill without cleaning the box, then there is a serious risk of inadvertently damaging its decorative coating.
Also, the box can be fixed with metal hangers. They are first screwed to the racks, and then, after bending onto the wall, they are attracted to it with self-tapping dowels.
If the wall is thick, then you will need to install extensions (false slopes, additional timber). The box has a so-called coverage area. This is an interior space and needs to be decorated. The extensions are made from solid wood, fiberboard or MDF. After cutting to the required dimensions, they simply need to be attached to the box and screwed to it with long self-tapping screws. Then, along the entire perimeter of the opening, spacer wedges and a spacer in the middle are also placed under them.
Dobor installation instructions
Then it remains only to spray the mounting foam and leave the block closed for a while at rest. It is recommended to continue installing the interior door the very next day. The foamed adhesive must completely dry and fix the door frame.
Threshold and architraves installation
The threshold and platbands are installed after fixing the box with anchors and mounting foam. The first is a metal bar with holes for self-tapping dowels. It needs to be cut to the width of the opening, drill holes in the floor and "nail".
Platbands for interior doors are in the form:
- semicircular;
- flat;
- drop-shaped;
- curly.
They are fastened with a locking connection (“thorn-groove”), carnations or glue. Trimming them in the upper corners of the door is made at 45 or 90 degrees. In this case, the joints of the crossbar and vertical slats should be made as tight as possible. The slightest irregularities and errors when sawing off will then be in sight.
Options for arranging the threshold of interior doors
Installation of fittings for interior doors
At the end of the installation, locking fittings are installed. And usually, for interior doors, a two-in-one mortise product (handle + lock) is selected. Such a device can be rotary or push type. But in both cases, the principle of work is the same.
Installing the mortise handle is as follows:
- The canvas is marked at a height of about a meter from the floor.
- A hole is drilled for fittings.
- A handle with overlays (sockets) is placed and bolted together.
- Opposite, a groove is cut out in the jamb bar for the tongue and a reciprocal metal bar is placed.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a door handle
Drilling a hole is best done with a crown of the appropriate diameter so that it turns out even. And the reciprocal on the box and the mounting strips on the canvas must be recessed so as not to interfere with the closing of the door.
So that the independent installation of interior doors does not end in failure, you should:
- screw all self-tapping screws only after drilling thin holes for them, otherwise the timber and the canvas may crack;
- install the block strictly vertically (even if the slopes are curved or go at an angle);
- correctly dose the mounting foam, a large amount of it can lead to a skew of the block;
- leave a gap of 10–15 mm between the canvas and the threshold to ensure natural ventilation.
Everything should be done carefully and without haste. The marking and cutting of wooden parts must be performed only after two or three remeasurements. Remove an extra centimeter, let alone add it, it will not work here. It's clean and winterized
The installation instructions for interior doors allow you to install such structures on your own without much difficulty. You just need to strictly follow its points.
Thank you for your help in creating the article of our partners: Porta prima interior doors factory - www.portaprima.ru
Door structures between rooms in an apartment or a private house cannot be called very complex technical systems. However, their assembly and installation require knowledge of a number of nuances. Firstly, a self-installed door should not spontaneously open. Secondly, it must close without excessive effort. Thirdly, door structures must have a certain strength and not fall apart in cases where they are mounted in the dwellings of "lovers" to slam the doors.
Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several stages:
- Assembly of the supporting structural element - the box.
- Installation of the canvas, and then the box beam (a handle, hinges and other fittings are attached to it).
- Aligning the box in the door and fixing it securely.
- Canvas hanging.
- Finishing of doors with platbands.
Types of interior doors
A conventional door block consists of two elements - a leaf and a box. The latter is made of hinged and feigned timber, as well as lintels. If you will be installing doors with a threshold, the box is supplemented with a special bottom bar. The door leaf in most cases is hung on two hinges. There are systems with three loops, but they are used extremely rarely. The set of door blocks, as a rule, includes platbands. If the manufacturer does not provide any, you will need to purchase them separately.
In situations where the door frame is smaller in width than the door opening, you need to purchase extensions or trim the walls with flashings or slopes that are more elegant in terms of design. Here you need to know that professionals do not advise plastering slopes if you do the installation of structures made of wood materials (for example, MDF) with your own hands. Such doors are simply deformed after applying a plaster composition to them.
An excessively wide opening is often reduced with a wooden beam. Its dimensions should correspond to the "extra" width. Such a beam is installed from the side of the door pillar, where its hinges are located. The beam is attached to the rack with small cross-section universal self-tapping screws, and it is connected to the wall with anchors. Do-it-yourself installation of interior structures with your own hands is recommended after pre-finishing the premises (it is understood that you have leveled the walls, carefully and accurately puttyed them, and then plastered them).
Reducing the doorway with a wooden beam
In other words, the assembly and installation of doors is carried out after the completion of all, without exception, "wet" finishing work.
Otherwise, there is a high probability that the system may “float” from high humidity. Be sure to equip the rough flooring, as well as determine the thickness and type of finish floor that you will do. Without this, you will not be able to accurately mount the door frame to the height of the threshold. If you just decided to change the interior doors in a room where no repairs are being carried out, the latest recommendations do not matter.
It is very important to install the racks correctly. A door frame is attached to them. If you install it on crooked racks, the operational functionality of such a door will be minimal. Rack preparation is carried out as follows:
- The upper parts of the racks must be cut with a hacksaw (it is better to take a saw with small teeth) and a miter box. This operation is easier to do if you have a miter saw.
- On the inside of the rack, measure the required length (it consists of the bottom gap, the height of the door leaf and the top gap). The lower gap is usually taken to be about 1 cm, the upper one - no more than 0.4 cm. Prepare the second rack in the same way.
- Now you start processing the lintel. Measure the desired length on the inside. The required length will include the width of the leaf, a small (about 0.4 cm) gap on the side where you will put the lock on the door, and another gap on the side of the hinges. Get the length (internal) of the lintel. Note - absolutely accurate.
Installation of interior door racks
Now you can saw off the ends of the lintel with your own hands (again, with a miter saw or a miter box). This procedure is done at a 45° angle. Next up are the door hinges. Their installation should be done as carefully as possible. It is important to determine the exact value of their depth and the distance between the lower and upper edges of the door leaf. The scheme of work is as follows:
- We measure on the rack (on the inside) from the top edge a distance of 20 cm.
- We apply the loop to the selected area, outline its contour (use a regular pencil).
- When folded, the hinge leaves a free space (gap) from the rack to the canvas of 0.4 cm. We calculate the installation depth of the fitting element, taking into account its thickness.
- With a chisel (or better with a milling cutter) we make a platform for the loop.
- Similarly, we determine the size and location of the installation of the lower hinge. But in this case, the value of the lower gap (1 cm) must be added to 20 cm.
- Having installed the hinges on the rack, we apply this design to the canvas and make marks about the areas where the hinges are located.
- It remains to make seats for the loop elements.
You have accomplished a difficult task on your own. Now you can deal with the box and platbands. More on this later.
Do-it-yourself door frame assembly and installation
Installing the box yourself will be quite simple if you follow the procedure below. You need:
- Attach (strictly perpendicular) with a stand to the lintel. If you are installing an interior product made of MDF, in order to avoid cracking it, you must first make holes with a drill and only then install self-tapping screws. Important! Holes are made of a smaller section than the diameter of the hardware used.
- Put the box in the opening, and then fix it securely using spacers and wedges.
- Take the building level and align it along the horizontal and vertical plane of the structure. After that, feel free to use self-tapping screws.
- Hang the door on the hinges. It can be inconvenient to perform such a procedure on your own, so call an assistant. After hanging, check the quality of installation, eliminate certain installation defects, if any.
- Close the interior door, install spacers of suitable sizes between the uprights and the canvas. They will save the box from squeezing out when blowing foam.
The last step is to fill the gap between the wall and the door frame. When the foam hardens, the spacers will need to be removed. You just have to install the platbands with your own hands. Everything is simple here - you file an angle of 45 ° and mount the elements in their place. Fastening of installed platbands is recommended: self-tapping screws; special nails (they are called finishing); on glue.
It is advisable to cover the tops of the self-tapping screws with decorative plastic caps. And nail heads are usually overwritten. Congratulations, you installed interior doors on your own, saving a lot of money on the services of specialists!
Every owner wants to save money on building a house or renovating an apartment. Therefore, more and more homeowners tend to do many repair and construction work on their own. Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors will help to save a lot.
There is nothing difficult in these works even for a novice master. You just need to carefully study the step-by-step instructions and watch the video.
How to install interior doors made of natural wood or MDF? These doors are in high demand due to their good quality at an affordable cost.
There is a certain order of actions:
- Unpack the purchased door set and door frames. Everything must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure.
- Assemble the door frame. The kit for this includes 3 components and 1 tie bar, which will be used for short-term fixation.
It is more convenient to assemble on a flat floor, laying a soft substrate. Gable panels have inserts (plastic inserts). They are hammered into special grooves. They must be carefully knocked out so as not to damage the loot. Use wood blocks for this, since it is impossible to knock on fragile plastic inserts with a hammer.
- Fasten all parts of the door fixed base according to the “groove to groove” scheme, giving it a U-shape. It is necessary to observe strict geometry, inaccuracies during assembly should not be allowed. Fasten the frame with inserts previously knocked out of the grooves, hammering them into the formed holes. Work with a hammer, but carefully.
If the parts of the box have shifted when the inserts are hammered in, then you need to correctly align the case with a hammer, placing a wooden plank.
Think about the direction of opening the doors. It all depends on the layout.
Advice! In the bathroom, pantry, and closet, outward-opening doors are best, as an inward-opening door will reduce an already small space. Doors to large rooms (living room, bedroom, office) should, on the contrary, be made to open inward, otherwise the door leaf will interfere in the aisles and hallway.
- In the future, you will need some tools for work:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- end saw and chisel;
- milling head;
- building level;
- dowels, tape measure and mounting foam.
Having collected the top of the box, you need to go to the lower zone. A tightening plate from the purchased set will come in handy, with which to fix the width of the door frame along the bottom. Screw it with screws in those areas that will later be embedded in the wall. Screw the screws at an angle, starting work not from the very edge, otherwise you can easily split the bar.
- Adjust the loot to the size of the doorway. Usually the length of factory doors is 5–6 cm longer than standard openings. After measuring the opening, cut the bottom of the box with a miter saw.
When determining the size of the doorway, you need to take into account the height of the threshold (if any) or its absence (when an interior door without a threshold is provided).
- For fitting, insert the door leaf into the assembled box lying on the floor without removing the cellophane from it. It is enough just to cut it off in the area of the handles and the castle.
- Mount the finished box, fitted in all respects, into the opening and, using the building level, install it perfectly evenly. Screw the box to the opening with wood screws, screwing them at an angle in those areas that will then be closed with foam and door trim.
If the doorway is not made of wood or drywall sheets, where there are wooden blocks, then dowels or similar fastening materials will have to be used for fastening.
It is impossible to fasten the door frame through the front side, so as not to spoil its appearance and not to impede the operation (opening / closing) of the door over time.
Foam the crevices between the opening and the box later, using dry finishing mixtures, make a slope in this place.
- While the foam hardens, you can start installing hinges and handles on the moving part of the door, as well as inserting the lock. Mark a place for the castle on the pediment and outline the outline according to its shape. With a router saw, carefully remove the top wood layer until the face of the lock is even with the door leaf.
For the inside of the lock, use a drill with a suitable drill to make a deeper recess.
Fix the lock with the fasteners provided in the set, harmonious in color and style with locks, hinges, door, plugs and door handles. To do this, insert the core of the lock into the drilled socket, put handles on it on both sides and clamp everything with fasteners.
The time has come to install the loops, the pins of which should look up, after which the canvas is put on. Work like a lock. Make sure that the loops are on the same level with the canvas.
- Return to the loot, mark and hang the hinges, determine the place where the lock enters, make a hole with a chisel and fix the plug.
- Hang the door leaf.
Everywhere where a wood mass was drilled, cut and sawn, it is necessary to cover its bare places with paint in a general tone or varnish. This will not only improve the appearance, but also preserve the wooden surface.
If desired, you can easily install an interior door yourself.
Factory door sets are made to a typical wall thickness of about 7-8 cm for city apartments. Why do homeowners, where the walls are thicker, have to adapt to industrial sizes
With a wall thickness of 25 cm or more, the openings not covered by the door jamb are covered with plaster, plastic or plasterboard slopes. Up to 25 cm, you can install interior doors with extensions, which is much faster and easier.
Dobor (additional boards) is a frame expander, which together with the platband plays an aesthetic role, hiding uneven surfaces, making the door much stronger and preventing it from warping.
It is made from grooved and edged boards for thick walls or from aircraft plywood (later decorated with self-adhesive film) for very thick walls. The extension, assembled from 3 components, copies the letter P in shape and is attached (you can use PVA glue):
- to the door frame;
- to the wall in the opening zone;
- on a vertical beam between the extension and the opening.
Benefits of add-ons:
- speed of assembly and installation of the door block;
- the absence of "wet" finishing works, which are undesirable for wood;
- extending the life of doors.
Briefly about loops. Factory products are often sold with hinges already attached. Then the issue of installing loops is not the key. But sometimes you have to install them yourself. This is where many people think about whether to use classic loops or butterflies.
Butterfly loop from the category of non-cut elements, i.e. when using it, you do not need to cut grooves. This is a plus.
Attention! But this design does not make it possible to quickly remove the doors if necessary. You will have to unscrew the hinges, and this is inconvenient during repair work or when bringing in or taking out furniture.
Butterflies are easy to install, however, when choosing this type of hinge, you need to know: even a minimal deviation due to a possible defect in the door leaf or the hinge itself will lead to the fact that the doors will not close tightly. That is why you need to be extremely careful when working with butterflies.
Decide which hinges to install, the owner. Butterflies are more suitable for light doors, and for massive heavy doors, it is better to choose the classic version, since it provides a stronger connection, thanks to which the classic hinges are able to hold more weight.
Installation of sliding interior doors
Recently, not ordinary hinged interior doors are in great demand, but sliding doors (slider), which slide along the rails or drive to the side (into the opening, pencil case, wall) on rollers.
They are of two types:
- a sliding accordion door, consisting of small plastic or wooden slats, which, when easily moved, save space;
- a door built into a pencil case or a wall, working according to the wardrobe technology.
On a note! Inexpensive accordion doors are not practical. Sliding doors of any modification are usually accompanied by step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer for their assembly.
Advantages of sliding doors:
- custom design:
- more space in the room for furniture;
- security;
- do not open spontaneously in drafts.
The disadvantages include:
- poor noise and sound insulation, as well as the penetration of odors, but this is not difficult to eliminate by installing a felt gasket on the pediment;
- the difficulty in repairing it and in caring for the surface where the door moves;
- the high cost of installation, but if the installation of sliding interior doors is done by hand, then the costs are practically no higher than when setting up swing doors.
Two-leaf interior doors
In large apartments or houses where there is a lot of space, the owners often prefer double doors between rooms (hinged or sliding). Installation of double doors of any version is also simple, but has its own specifics.
Set the crossbar (espagnolette) before inserting the loops. On each leaf, cut the hinges into the door itself and into the side post. Remove the fragment made earlier.
- Hang the first door on the hinges, aligning it in level, as with the installation of a single-leaf hinged door. After that, carefully hang the second one, adjusting it in accordance with the first one, mark the place for the second beam and fix it with self-tapping screws.
- After making sure that both sashes are level relative to each other, foam the seams. When solidified, the foam increases many times in volume, so it is better to use foam with a low expansion coefficient.
- Before inserting the handles, fix the striker mating plate in the door frame.
- Nail the flashing (embossed profile rail) with nails, initially smearing it with hot-melt adhesive for greater strength, and install the platbands.
Installing interior doors with your own hands is not difficult. It is important to consistently perform all installation steps.
Have you bought a new home, or is it time to renovate your old one? Restoration, replacement or installation of a new interior door is indispensable. Today we are not talking about restoration.
Let's talk about installing a new door. You can entrust such work to specialists, but we ourselves are with hands. Installing an interior door with your own hands will save the budget, give pleasure if you are a real man.
The construction market is full of offers. Interior doors are no exception. Choose whatever you like, affordable for your pocket. But don't rush to buy. It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the location of rooms in a house or apartment, the size of the doorway, the specifics of opening doors. Interior doors are:
- hinged one-door or two-door;
- sliding compartments (built into the wall or over the wall);
- harmonic;
- secret.
Each has distinctive features, requires an individual approach to installation, fittings. Handles can be installed on the surface of the leaf or recessed inside; swivel or push.
Hinges for different types of interior doors. Most often they consist of two parts: one is attached to the canvas, the other to the vertical rack of the box.
Hinged two-door design of a door.
For compartment interior doors, a system of upper / lower guides is provided. Knowing the features of installing different types of doors, doing everything yourself is not difficult. And now about everything in order.
Determine the size of the future door structure
We take a single-leaf swing door as a basis. Having understood the calculations of the overall dimensions of this design, it will not be difficult to deal with other options.
- We measure the interior opening in height and width. We take the size of a clean space without an old door, if any. There should be no inaccuracies in the calculations - this will affect the quality of installing interior doors with your own hands.
- If there is an old structure, we dismantle it, level the surface.
- The width of standard interior doors varies from 700 mm. They may be smaller, but this is only for some utility rooms. Because it will be difficult to pass through such an opening, and even more so to bring in dimensional objects.
- For a door with a width of 700 mm, the opening must be at least 790 mm. It is necessary to take into account the thickness of the frame, the door leaf and the technological gap for comfortable opening of the sash. Usually, 30 mm are left for a gap on the right and left sides inside the box.
- Let's move on to height. The standard door leaf corresponds to a height of 2000 mm. Larger sizes are made to order. We add to the height of the door leaf the thickness of the upper bar of the box, the gaps for opening.
- The design can be with or without a threshold. This must be taken into account when buying a door. On average, the height of interior openings is 2100 mm. If the dimensions of the space are slightly larger than the standard, do not worry. During the installation process, the remaining space will be hidden by foam, cashing around the perimeter.
Standard door and frame dimensions. What to buy at a hardware store to install interior doors with your own hands?
- door leaf of the required size, type - 1 pc.;
- timber for the box, if not included with the door - 3-4 pcs. (depending on the type of box);
- extras (if necessary);
- cashing out, if not included;
- hinges of a certain type (check with the seller in the store or read the information on choosing door hinges);
- doorhandle;
- self-tapping screws for the box;
- mounting foam;
- masking tape;
- tools, if not in the household, or rent.
What tools do you need to prepare:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- hacksaw or miter saw;
- level;
- roulette;
- a hammer;
- chisel;
- miter box;
- mallet;
- foam gun;
- wedges and bars for spacers.
All details are bought, prepared. We turn to the installation of an interior door with our own hands.
Do-it-yourself door leaf and box preparation
Each master has his own methods for installing interior doors. You can mount the box and the canvas separately in the opening, you can assemble it into a single set and install it in the opening. The main thing is that the result is positive. Step-by-step instructions will help you avoid mistakes.
Do-it-yourself box assembly
Consider the technology when the box is assembled on the floor, then installed in the opening.
Initially, it is important to properly install the door frame. Knowing the size of the product, we cut off the desired length of the vertical slats. To do this, take a tape measure, make a measurement, mark a mark with a pencil, saw off the excess length.
There are two ways to cut a beam:
- at an angle of 45 degrees;
- at an angle of 90 degrees.
The assembly of the first option is not available to every craftsman. You need clarity of action, a firm hand and a miter saw. At an angle of 45, we cut out not only vertical strips, but also horizontal ones. We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, twisting them deeper.
The second option is no problem. We saw off the desired length, connect the parts at an angle of 90 degrees. We make a small notch on the top of the vertical bar for the upper vertical part of the box, a kind of groove. It will help to more tightly connect the parts from the timber with self-tapping screws.
Before tightening the fasteners, make holes with a drill to avoid cracking the slats and damaging the workpiece.
The step-by-step video instruction in this article will help you understand the technique of collecting the box with your own hands.
We considered the option when the assembly of the interior box comes from special blanks for the door structure. They are recommended when an additional rigid frame is needed in the opening. For example, in a wooden house, a box made of timber will play the role of a pigtail, will not allow you to lead a doorway when shrinking a log house, to break the geometry of the door. The thickness and width of the timber is selected according to the type of door: solid, MDF, panel or otherwise. Everyone has their own thickness. Choose your favorite option for collecting the support frame and proceed to the collection of the canvas.
Assembling the canvas with your own hands, installing accessories
Assembling the canvas involves fixing the necessary fasteners to the door leaf. Sometimes manufacturers make notches at the intended attachment points for hinges or handles. These are more exclusive and expensive models.
All fittings to the door leaf must be installed before the door canopy into the frame. Often the sash of the interior design is universal, i.e. the product can be installed in the interior opening both on the right and on the left. Our instruction hint will help to understand this issue.
Tip: for fire safety, any door should open outward, in the direction of travel. Neither the handle nor the canvas should touch other objects so that there is no rebound from the blow back. It can be traumatic.
Try to ensure that adjacent doors do not interfere with each other when opening. Sometimes the corridor space is narrow, but separates several rooms that need to be isolated with interior doors. If you choose the wrong opening option, then there will be a problem of hitting one door against another, or one of the doors may block the other. Architects do not always think through this moment, especially in small apartments. Therefore, provide for all the nuances so that the use of a useful piece of furniture is not deplorable. A sliding door would be a good option.
Do-it-yourself loop installation
We figured out the direction of opening. Let's move on to installing the hinges of interior doors with your own hands.
We will mark the canvas and the vertical bar of the supporting frame. According to the standard, two loops are fixed. If the door is heavy, such as an array, a third hinge will be required.
The hinges are attached to the door exactly according to the given scheme, observing the dimensions. From above and below we retreat from the edge of 150-200 mm, we make the first notch. This is one edge of the loop bar. We outline the second mark - this is the other edge of the bar. We find out the size by measuring the length of the loop with a tape measure or applying the loop itself to the first mark. We do the same actions on the vertical rack of the box.
Modern hinges may be tightly adjacent to the ends of the product or require additional penetration into the edge. To do this, we take a chisel, select the required gap from the canvas and timber. Thus, there were seats for the upper and lower loops.
We fix the fittings with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them with a drill.
Some experts recommend attaching the hinge to the canvas and box prior to installation. Other masters advise to put the box, and then screw the canvas together with the hinges in a standing position. What to choose is up to you. It is easier to immediately fix the hinges on the box and the sash in the supine position, and then install it in the opening. But it may be difficult to adjust if the adjoining door is not symmetrical around the perimeter of the opening.
Installing and assembling the handle
Let's move on to the handles. Step-by-step instructions for installing handles will help you do everything right. Despite the fact that door handles are represented by a wide range, their installation is carried out according to a certain algorithm. Latch handles are often used, which contain a locking element in the design that allows you to close the door with a key or latch:
- we measure the height where we fix the handle and the lock, according to the standard 90–120 mm from the floor;
- at the end of the canvas, a hole for the lock plate is drilled with a large drill;
- insert the bar into the hole, outline its contours at the end of the canvas;
- we take out the lock and make a recess with a chisel so that the lock bar is flush with the surface;
- on the surface of the product we mark the place where the handle is attached, applying the locking bar from the outside;
- drill a hole for the handle;
- we insert the lock back into the end and fix it with a handle;
- We install the reciprocal bar on the box after hanging the door in the opening.
To figure out how to fix the handles on the door with your own hands, you can watch the video instruction:
Installing a door in an interior opening
We proceed to the next stage - installation of the product in the interior opening. Let's make a small digression. If the door is installed in a new apartment, then it is enough to check the evenness of the opening and correct the irregularities with the help of plaster and a trowel. Sand the surface, prime and proceed with the installation of the door structure. But if the repair is carried out in an old room, then it is necessary to dismantle the old door or interior box. It takes time, effort and skill.
The entire space around the box is foamed with mounting foam. Make dismantling in advance, so as not to spray, not to increase the installation time of the door. We do it with our own hands and for the first time. Finishing work of walls, floors must be completed before the installation of doors, so that later there are no incidents of inconsistency. This requirement applies both to the installation of a U-shaped box, and around the entire perimeter with a threshold. It is difficult to drive linoleum or tile under the door and maintain the possibility of proper opening.
Correct installation of the door with your own hands requires the presence of an assistant. There are two options for mounting in the opening, but in each of them it is difficult for one to do all the manipulations.
First way. Installing the box separately from the canvas
After checking the evenness of the frame with a level, we install it in the prepared interior opening. Accompanying each action with a level and a plumb line, we set the frame evenly. It should not have even the slightest bias. This will affect the opening of the sash.
Installing the door frame separately from the canvas. We install wedges or bars to pre-fix the box. Do not forget about the gap between the jamb and the slats.
We drill holes in the vertical bar, twist the screws into the holes. They have to pull the box to the jamb. If the house is wooden, a long self-tapping screw will easily go into the log. If the house is made of bricks, it is required to make a preliminary hole in the opening and insert a plastic dowel under the self-tapping screw. Fasteners must be recessed into the bar so as not to interfere with the opening / closing of the sash.
Check the level of all surfaces.
There are situations when the box cannot completely close the jamb. Help to hide the opening decorative dobor. They are attached directly to the jamb or attached to the box before installation. Choose the correct size of the extensions or cut them in place. Fix such extensions in the groove with foam.
The box is fixed. Let's move on to hanging the canvas. If the hinges are collapsible, then hanging the sash is not very difficult. The hinges are installed symmetrically on both parts of the product. We put one part of the loop into another and check all the gaps. They should be the same around the perimeter.
The second way. Installing the complete product
Before installing the kit in the interior opening, we lay out cardboard gaskets between the canvas and the box. This will keep the gaps and symmetry of the kit.
- Carefully lift the product, install it in the opening.
- Align around the perimeter with a level and a plumb line.
- We install wedges or bars around the perimeter to maintain gaps and space for foam.
- We turn to foaming the space around the perimeter. This process is similar in both the first and second installation methods.
- Before applying the foam in the gaps, cover the front sides of the box with masking tape to avoid foam getting on the product. It is quite difficult to clean it up. Use a foam gun. The gun will reduce material consumption and the work will be done neatly. Do not hurry. Apply layer after layer from top to bottom.
After foaming the space, it is advisable to leave the door closed for a day. At rest, deformations will not occur, and the cardboard laid between the box and the canvas will retain gaps and will not allow the beam to bend when the foam expands.
The door leaf can be installed separately from the frame or together. After drying, cut off the excess mounting foam, remove the masking tape.
It remains to fix the striker of the lock on the end of the box and install decorative details - platbands.
do-it-yourself interior door installation - the final process
With the door closed, we apply a notch to the attachment point of the lock striker. We select a hole for the bar with a chisel. It should be recessed into the timber flush. Fasten with screws. We check the operation of the lock and handle.
Finishing works are finishing. The final step is to install trim on the sides and top of the interior door. The platbands can be connected to each other at an angle of 45 degrees or at a right angle. It depends on the product design. Sometimes parts are sold in finished size or need to be sawed off. Carry out washing down with a zasovochny saw. The elements are connected in place, fixed with liquid nails or nails without caps, hammering into the drilled holes.