Leveling a wooden floor: technology and necessary materials. Leveling a wooden floor The better to level a wooden floor

If indoors uneven wood floor, it becomes inconvenient to live in it. Boards creak, bend or, conversely, stick out, diverge, forming cracks.

The aesthetics of the room is violated, a traumatic situation is created. On such a floor, it is easy to fall and damage yourself. To avoid serious trouble and improve the condition of the home, uneven floors are leveled. They do it in different ways.

Dry methods

An uneven wooden floor must be leveled if the height difference is more than 5 cm. This uneven floor is visible to the naked eye. The surface may slope in any direction. In another case, the boards are unevenly arranged, in waves: one protrudes, the other sinks, bends. There are several options for eliminating unevenness in the floor using a dry method.

Installation of minilag from bars (tape support)

Tape support is one of the most reliable methods for leveling uneven wood floors. The method is used with height differences from 3 to 10 cm. The timber serves as a lining under the boardwalk. It should be of different thicknesses in order to be evenly spaced in the direction of increasing slope. For ease of installation, craftsmen use pieces of plywood rather than wood.

To install the minilags correctly, a preliminary calculation is carried out and the readings are checked with a meter level. The distance between them corresponds to the thickness of the sheets made from wood waste.

It is not recommended to lay sheets that are too thick to level an uneven wooden floor:

• they are heavy and inconvenient for DIY installation;
• create additional load on the floor and base.

Beams of different sections and sheet products are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with self-tapping screws. The fasteners should be of different lengths as the distance to the boards varies. Minilags are fixed across and along the boards. It is important to mark the sheets as accurately as possible at the points of drilling holes.

Installation of leveling point supports (scabs)

If indoors uneven wood floor, it is possible to eliminate the defect and level it with the help of point supports, which are called cobs. They are installed under the sheet products in the form of a grid. In this case, cells are obtained, the dimensions of which are determined by the thickness of the sheets.

Such dimensions of the cells will not allow sagging in subsequent operation.

Since the support "posts" are located pointwise, they make a careful marking on the sheets and screw in self-tapping screws at the points. Additionally, the sheets are fixed to the very base of the floor, choosing longer fasteners.

Methods for leveling uneven wood floors without screed are highly effective. After leveling work, the surface acquires an ideal shape and holds the topcoat well. 8-10 cm - a difference in height, at which it is better to dismantle the old floor and lay a new base with the replacement of the lag.

Wet screed method

For slight irregularities (up to 3mm), the wooden floor can be covered with acrylic filler or sealant. Before work, the boards are primed to protect the wood and ensure better adhesion with the leveling compound. The composition is applied in a thin layer, spreading evenly over the previously made marks on the walls, along the lighthouses.

It is important to know: the thickness of the layer determines the amount of time it takes to dry. To prevent the putty from cracking over time, PVA glue is added to it. After the mixture has dried, the surface is sanded.

If uneven wood floor has a slope of more than 3 mm, is used. This is not quite the right way for a wooden base. The screed creates a significant load on the base and floors. It is most possible when the boards are laid on concrete or brick posts, reinforced concrete supports. The need for it arises, for example, when using tiles as a topcoat.

To level an uneven wooden floor using the "wet" method, use dry mixtures with components that provide the screed with elasticity and special strength. These include various plasticizers and synthetic fillers.

1. Before applying the leveling compound, check the wood floors for ventilation. If it is not there, holes are drilled in certain places on the surface, and decorative grilles are installed over the topcoat.
2. The boards are covered with plastic wrap, which performs the function of waterproofing. The tree is afraid of water. And with a wet screed, a dry mixture is diluted with this liquid.
3. The leveling compound is poured in portions onto the surface and evenly distributed using a special rule. You can work gradually, filling in small areas.
4. After the screed has dried, it is sanded and primed.

A wet screed on a wooden base is rarely done. The main reason is the incompatibility between wood and leveling compound. Wood is mobile, and the cement mixture is static, therefore, over time, it can crack and crumble.

When choosing a method for leveling an uneven wooden floor, they are guided by the specific conditions of the room. It is important that in subsequent operation the surface does not deform, and the finish coat does not deteriorate.

Comfortable living in a house depends on many conditions. These include the quality of the finish and the general condition of the surfaces, including the leveling of uneven wood floors.

Plank floor leveling.

Some old houses from the times of Stalin's and Khrushchev's buildings still have rough wooden floors. Over time, the floorboards rot, loosen and begin to creak. And during repairs, in order to hide the defects of the old uneven floor, a new coating is used in the form of a laminate or linolem.

But before laying a new floor, it is recommended to align the sub-floor with sheet material. You can do this procedure yourself without involving construction specialists and at minimal cost. For leveling the floor, it is best to use plywood, as the fiberboard sheets will eventually take the shape of an uneven floor and waves will appear again. Plywood is indispensable for the material used to level old wood floors.

It has a relatively low weight, is strong enough, resistant to stress and water, well polished, and has no unpleasant odor. The material does not change its properties with changes in temperature and humidity.

In order to carry out the procedure for leveling a wooden floor, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

• plywood sheets;
• roll insulation;
• screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
• jigsaw;

Preparation for leveling the wooden floor in the apartment

• Initially, it is necessary to check the status of the communications that are laid under the floor, since after the completion of the work there will be no free access to them.
• Next, you need to get rid of various irregularities that are very typical for a wooden floor.
• Fix and, if necessary, replace old, rotten, creaky boards.
• As additional insulation, if the floor is initially cold, you can use a roll of mineral wool insulation.

Prepared sheets of plywood are laid on the floor and in order to assess the strength and reliability of the coating, you should walk on it. In the course of such tests, additional defects may come to light that can be corrected in the moment without dismantling the floor. If it is found that the floor is sagging, then it is necessary to additionally put pieces of fiberboard in these places.

The most optimal and reliable fastening of plywood sheets will be fastening with self-tapping screws, which at the initial stage of fastening do not need to be driven in to the end. In places where plywood sags, fastening is unacceptable. After fixing the sheets, you need to carefully walk through the made flooring again.

This is necessary in order to check how firmly and correctly the sheets fit together. If the result of the check is satisfactory and pleased, then all the screws will be driven to the end, tightly drowning the cap in the tree.

After fixing the sheet material, the caps of the screws and the seams are putty with acrylic sealant. The advantage of such a putty is that even if the boards and sheets bend slightly, the sealant, due to its high plasticity, will not collapse and spill out.

After finishing the installation of plywood sheets, you can start laying another linoleum or laminate flooring.

Leveling an uneven wooden floor - video

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The quality of the floors and the comfort of staying in a house or apartment are always closely interrelated. Uneven wooden floors cause a lot of inconvenience and trouble. They creak, make unpleasant, annoying sounds. Poor-quality flooring is a prerequisite for the occurrence of traumatic situations in the home, not to mention the fact that uneven wooden floors look extremely unkempt and unaesthetic. Is it possible to fix such a defect? It is not easy to level a wooden floor with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professionals in construction and repair work.

An uneven wooden floor in the house can lead to traumatic situations.

Simple techniques

There are many technologies on how to level a wooden floor. Their diversity is due to the fact that from the moment mankind began to use wood for interior decoration of the house, the problem arose of how to level the wooden floor. One of the first options would be a cement-sand screed. This is the classic method for leveling a wooden floor. However, it is not universal and unique. The level of deformation of the floor can be different. Therefore, you should first pay attention to the levels of differences in the wooden floor and only then make a decision on which method it should be leveled.

Tidying up the wood flooring

The screed will help to solve the problem of leveling the wooden floor, if the level of differences in its coverage starts from 5 cm. Leveling the wooden floor with a cement screed will not cause problems if the process technology is followed correctly and quality materials are purchased. This type of screed solves another equally important issue: when applied, any types of flooring will last much longer and will be more reliable in operation.

Raised floors are an equally popular way of leveling a wooden floor with your own hands, it is considered the simplest and most convenient for residents of the house, since it does not cause the discomfort that work with cement-sand mixtures brings. Inexpensive plywood is the main component of raised floors. However, according to experts, with the help of raised floors, it is possible to level such a floor only in cases where the level of deformation of the coating is relatively small.

About the mixtures used

Before proceeding with leveling the surface of the coating, you need to take care of purchasing high-quality materials and leveling mixtures. The latter are widely used in works to eliminate floor deformation with their own hands. The optimal and practical option is fiberglass leveling compounds. They are reliable, easy to use and are used not only in adjusting the floor covering with your own hands, but also in other interior work related to wood.

As for the wet screed, special mixtures containing various additives are used to level the flooring, which give the substance such a property as fast curing. Of course, these two types of mixtures used for leveling the floor are not limited. There is a whole class of self-leveling compounds. They are very practical, since the leveling of small floor defects with your own hands will be reduced to the correct application of the substance to the coating itself. But one must be careful, since their excessive concentration is quite capable of significantly ruining the floor.

And such mixtures have another significant drawback. Through their application, it is possible to level a wooden floor with slight irregularities and defects. For example, cracks and grooves up to 3 cm deep on the floor. When purchasing self-leveling mixtures, you need to pay attention to the time of their hardening after application to the wooden floor. If it is necessary to level the coating on a large area, you will have to buy limiters and resort to a cell-by-cell step-by-step algorithm for leveling the floor, when, after completing operations in one area and solidifying the mixtures, the work is transferred to another, etc.

About dry and wet methods

Floor leveling scheme with a dry screed.

If you prefer dry leveling, be sure to clean its base from dust and traces of paint, putty and other substances. Logs are constructed from unplaned boards. A meter length of boards is usually recommended for them. The lags, with the help of which the alignment takes place, are fixed with anchors. Here, both a professional and a novice master, who decided to put all the coating in order, will need a building level. With its help, it is easy to control the quality of the coating plane, knowing that this plane must be strictly horizontal.

In order for the coating to correspond to the required level, the leveling of slopes and drops is performed using ordinary small wooden wedges. The next step is the installation of the lathing, without which it is impossible to significantly fix the wooden floors. The crossbars are fixed on the logs with self-tapping screws, then sheets of plywood are laid. Alignment using this technology does not exclude the use of chipboard. What else should you pay attention to? The floor covering, with which the leveling will be performed, must be treated with an antiseptic so that the wooden floor can be used longer. For the treatment of the joints remaining on the floor, a sealant is used, the high quality of which can also increase the service life of the floor covering.

It is more difficult to level wood floors with a wet screed, it will take longer, but it will last longer.

Installation diagram of beacons under the floor screed.

The algorithm for starting work is the same - the floors are cleaned of debris and traces of building materials. The surface is primed. If it has cracks, they are covered up. The next step is to knead the leveling solution. The fill layer must dry thoroughly before installing wooden floors. And only then is it possible to install a wooden flooring layer. The room where the wooden floor is leveled must have a constant air temperature. There are often situations when it is impossible to properly level the wooden floor precisely because there are drafts in the building.

Floor is an integral part of the interior decoration of the house. An old wooden floor can be renovated very easily without resorting to complex technologies and materials. The main thing is, when the floor is leveled, do not rush and perform all operations in stages. The floor plays the role of a heat-insulating, heat-saving coating in the house. However, if it is made of wood, then it needs extra care. The sooner it is noticed that the floor has acquired irregularities, cracks and depressions have appeared on it, the easier it is to fix the floor covering and extend its life. The walls, ceiling and floor are a kind of hallmark of the house's residents. An unkempt floor speaks better than any words about the true attitude of the owners to their home.

Floor is the basic element in the interior of the house. Along with windows and doors, furniture and lighting, the condition of the floor plays a key role in creating a cozy and comfortable living space. Therefore, work on this important element in a house, apartment or in any other space should be done efficiently and responsibly. And especially careful approach is required for wooden floors.

Features: pros and cons

Wooden products were the most popular at all times. First of all, because wood is a symbol of warmth and reliability, besides, it is incredibly pleasant to the touch and as if “alive”. Wood itself is a durable material, however, and over time it is capable of losing its attractiveness, deforming, bending, sagging, crumbling and cracking. But this is not at all a reason for stupor and bewilderment.

Many owners, in order to hide the flaws that have appeared over time, prefer laying any modern coatings on a wooden base. It can be laminate, tile or linoleum. For this, of course, it is necessary to maximize the characteristics of the floor, and more specifically, to level its surface so that the new coating falls on it without any difficulties and defects.

Even with minimal technical skills, the work on leveling the floor covering can be done by hand, choosing the most acceptable from the many methods.

Assessment of the condition of the floor

Resuscitation and restoration of an old wooden base is much easier and cheaper than completely replacing the coating. The duration of its service depends on the coefficient of curvature. Often, connection locks lose their strength over time, cracks begin to form, where dirt and moisture collect. Therefore, before you start leveling and laying a new coating, it is necessary to conduct a complete analysis of the rough wood floor.

To determine the degree of damage, you need to walk along its surface and examine in detail almost every centimeter. Perhaps remove some boards and check the lag condition. It happens that when examined, rotten boards are found eaten away by insects, in this case, most likely, complete or partial floor replacement will be required.

If, after checking, it turns out that the problem lies only in peeling paint, in pits and bumps, if the boards and logs are in a tolerable condition, without rotten and cracked areas, if the floor does not sag underfoot under load, then restoration work will take place with minimal costs effort and time.

It is very important to determine how much the floor deviates horizontally. Usually, the operation is performed using a laser level, which is set at the highest angle in the room and indicates the difference between the horizon line and uneven areas of the surface.

If the boards sag and stagger under your feet, you need to scroll the wooden floor.

If, upon examination, gaps between the boards wider than 8-10 mm are found, or the degree of slope of the surface from a flat horizontal line is very obvious, the surface of the sagging floor must be laid with sheet material, for example, chipboard.

Materials and tools

First of all, in order to level the floors, it is necessary that all the necessary tools are always at hand. If the work is done in a large room, experts often recommend dividing it into several squares and leveling each of them separately. It is good when more than one pair of hands is involved in the work. This will help save time and nerves.

The choice of the necessary tools depends on the type of alignment work.

The standard set is usually:

• tape measure (for taking measurements);
• levels (hydro levels and laser);
• steel brush (for cleaning the surface from flaking in hard-to-reach places);
• brush-brush (for cleaning debris at the base of the floor);
• spatula (tool for leveling mortar on a plane);
• trowel (for leveling the cement-sand mass);
• puncher (for drilling in wood);

• electric drill (for preparing the leveling agent);
• needle roller (for rolling self-leveling material);
• hacksaw (for cutting wood);
• planer (removes small wood shavings, leveling uneven surfaces);
• screwdriver (for screwing and unscrewing screws).

With PVA and sawdust

Leveling the surface using PVA glue and sawdust is a modern and convenient method that does not require large costs and enjoys good characteristics and reviews among builders. Before starting the process itself, it is necessary to clean the floor and nail the beacons on the laser level. Further, the sawdust must be slightly moistened and mixed with glue. The mixture should be of medium thickness (should resemble sour cream).

After that, the resulting mass must be poured between the beacons and leveled. If the surface is not smooth the first time, it may be necessary to apply several layers of the mixture. The layer should be at least 1-2 cm. There can be any number of such layers, the goal is to make the height differences minimal. Before applying each new coat, it is important to wait until the previous coat is completely dry. As you can see, the method is simple and practical.

Putty

With the help of a properly selected putty, you can hide all cracks, rub seams and irregularities, as well as ensure a long service life of the wooden floor. This leveling method is used not only in case of a desire to install a new floor covering, but also for cosmetic repairs. Today there is an extensive selection of putty mixtures that have a color that matches the color of a real wood coating.

The putty may differ in its composition, but there are a number of general requirements, which include:

1. Elasticity.This will allow the mixture to evenly fill all gaps and holes in the surface.
2. High percentage of adhesion (adhesion) of the putty to the wood. This will eliminate the option of delamination of the coating and guarantee its long-term service.
3. Uniformity. The composition should be completely homogeneous mass, without the presence of foreign impurities.
4. Fire resistance. This property of the putty mixture guarantees the safety of the wooden floor in case of fire.
5. Antiseptic properties.Protects the surface from the formation of fungi and mold, which are harmful to wood and human health.

Mastic

Mastic is a material that is applied over a wooden floor. Performs both leveling and protective function. One of the advantages of this material is its antibacterial property. The mastic is applied to the surface in several layers and gives it a glossy shade. If the task of the owners is the restoration of wooden flooring and restoration, improvement of its appearance, then one of the best means of achieving this goal is rubbing the floor with mastic.

Now on the construction market, you can observe a huge variety of this product. The mastic can be sold ready-made, or it can be in the state of a blank, which must be mixed with other ingredients and, for example, with warm water. Also, the material comes in different colors, and it can be transparent. In terms of composition, wax, water-based, turpentine and water-soluble mastics are distinguished.

To apply the material to the floor surface, you will need a paint roller, which will help the solution to be evenly distributed over the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The composition can be applied in several layers, so its protective properties will be higher.

Of course, a product based on a natural composition has the best qualities. For such a mastic to dry completely, it will take only 2-3 days, besides, it is much easier to update it.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a great way to combat squeaky floors. Wood, as mentioned above, is affected by the environment. Change in temperature, humidity - all this, over time, contributes to the fact that wood boards begin to creak underfoot. The use of polyurethane foam will help not only get rid of the defect, but also insulate the wooden floor in the house.

To do this, after general cleaning of the surface and fixing the boards to the logs, it is necessary to drill holes in those places where there is the most creak. Further, through this hole with the help of mounting foam, the empty space of the above floor is filled, which contributes to the reliable fixing of the boards from below. It is worth noting that the drilled holes must match, or better - be slightly wider than the diameter of the foam nozzle.

An important point is not to overdo it with the injection of foam, so that the surface does not rise with a so-called hump.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a material based on a natural composition. It is able not only to level out even the most hopeless options for an uneven surface, but also to soundproof and insulate the floor. Expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material with fire resistance, durability, strength, resistance to temperature extremes, antibacteriality and affordability.

For the correct laying of the material, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

• The first is cleaning the room from debris, sealing gaps and strengthening the boards.
• Further, it is necessary to waterproof the base in order to prevent leaks and damage to the screed.
• Along the walls, a damper tape is attached directly to the waterproofing, which is necessary to compensate for possible expansion of the materials during work.
• To maintain an even level of the screed, beacons are installed.
• Now it's about laying expanded clay.

Expanded clay is laid on a base prepared in advance so that the layer does not reach the top of the lighthouse. The layer is leveled and compacted well. The evenness of the resulting layer can be checked with a level. If you are satisfied with the result, you can apply a solution over the insulation.

Sometimes, in order to avoid shifts and deformation, the repair work masters fill in expanded clay with special cement milk and leave to dry for a day before hardening, after which they cover the expanded clay "pillow" with a solution

Another way is dry leveling of the floor using expanded clay. This method is perhaps the simplest and does not take much time. Dry expanded clay is laid at the level of the lighthouses and evenly distributed. A layer of 3-4 cm is enough to get a stable coating. Sheets of the material of your choice (OSB, chipboard, plywood sheets, etc.) are laid on the formed expanded clay "pillow".

Slabs

In this case, the floor is leveled by laying special plates on a wooden surface.

OSB boards are sheets formed from compressed wood chips using an adhesive mixture. There are 3 types of chipboard: OSB-2, OSB-3 and OSB-4, each of which is intended for use in certain conditions, has a different thickness and properties. It is important to determine which of the materials is right for you. It is worth noting that in comparison with chipboard, OSB boards have a high percentage of strength and differ in maximum thickness. The material also guarantees heat and sound insulation.

The material is fastened by nailing it with nails of the required length to supports located at a distance of about 30 cm from each other. You can lay OSB on the logs themselves or using a point support. In the second case, the more often the supports are located, the more stable the surface will be. It is imperative to eliminate gaps at the junction of the canvases and canvases themselves with the walls.

To obtain a durable and even surface, a GVL coating is often used. GVL-coating is a floor leveling technology by covering plank surfaces with gypsum fiber sheets. The product contains reinforced gypsum and cellulose. This composition guarantees high density and strength of the finished product, the ability to withstand severe mechanical stress. The material is moisture resistant and retains heat well.

The way the gypsum fiber is laid depends on the quality of the substrate. Most often, additional leveling material is used. Sheets are laid in 2 layers, where the first is attached to the slats, and the second is glued over the first.

For reliable fastening of the board to the base, special self-tapping screws are used. Working with self-tapping screws ensures a long life for the wood floor.

And when buying such a tool, you should be extremely careful. Saving in this case is a guarantee that soon there will be a need to repair the wooden floor again.

The size of self-tapping screws can vary considerably. The choice of the appropriate size depends on the thickness of the floor covering.

Self-leveling mixtures

Self-leveling mixtures are mortars that are designed to fill the floor, and are also one of the best and fastest levelers.

There are several types of leveling mixtures:

1. Fast hardening.It is used if it is necessary to quickly solidify the solution. Can be applied in both thin and thick layers.
2. Finishing. They are used at the end of the work, just before finishing the floor. The applied layer thickness should be no more than 5 mm. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the time for complete drying of the solution is much less than the drying time for the screed.
3. Thick-layer. Here the name speaks for itself. If you apply a thin layer of this type of solution, then the effect of the application will hardly be noticeable.
4. Special.This solution has the greatest strength and is used in small quantities for filling cracks and crevices. The mixture contains special elements that increase the percentage of wood adhesion to the base.

The plank floor can be found in a private house and in an old-style apartment. Its main advantage is environmental friendliness, heat capacity and pleasant tactile sensations. That is why many owners of residential premises, wanting to extend the life of a wooden floor covering, slowly tear off the boards, but seek to level them. It is a mistake to believe that only real carpenters or professional builders can level a wooden floor. In some cases, having theoretically prepared, you can carry out work on leveling the floor without tearing off the boards yourself.

The board floor can be leveled in the following ways:

• using a grinder;
• putty;
• by laying sheet material;
• screed.

Using roll or tile material (laminate, linoleum, PVC plates, carpet), unevenness of the wooden floor cannot be eliminated.

Before carrying out any work, it is imperative that you consult a specialist for the integrity and suitability of the floor for further use. Otherwise, the repair will not be successful and the coating will soon become unusable.

To choose the right way to level the floor in the house, you need to determine the degree of its unevenness. If the unevenness of the floor is up to 1 mm, then scraping is sufficient. A height difference of 2-3 mm is eliminated with putty. Laying sheet material on logs will correct the difference in height up to 10 cm. Minor irregularities are eliminated if linoleum is laid on the floor. Laminate is not suitable for such purposes.

Looping procedure

You can use the machine for scraping if the boards are placed strictly horizontally. It is not necessary to buy special equipment for a one-time procedure. It is usually rented.

Step-by-step description of the process:

• will take care of individual protection: a respirator against fine dust, earplugs;
• remove all furniture from the room. The doors to the neighboring rooms are tightly closed. They are hung with polyethylene for additional protection, because as a result of the operation of the scraper machine, fine dust is formed, which penetrates into any crevices;
• with the help of a bumper, you need to lower all the heads of the nails below the floor level by 2 mm;
• turn on the car. Work is carried out from the far corner of the room. Having reached the opposite wall, turn 180 degrees and move in the opposite direction;
• having cycled the boards once, the resulting dust is removed from their surface. Large gaps are sealed with putty to match the wood. After drying, the last cycle is repeated.

The leveled floor is varnished, linoleum or laminate can be laid on it.

Putty wood floor

In this case, an acrylic sealant or acrylic finishing putty is used. If the height difference reaches 3 mm, it is recommended to level the floor with a putty on PVA glue. This state of affairs can be easily explained: although acrylic putty has sufficient flexibility (it does not crack, even if the floor underneath bends), it can lose its integrity if its layer reaches 3 mm. Small areas of the floor are leveled with acrylic filler.

With a finishing putty on PVA glue, you can even out the height difference of more than 3 mm. In this case, sawdust is mixed into it. Disadvantage of this technique: the leveling material is very sticky and takes a long time to dry. After the putty dries, linoleum or carpet is laid on it. Laminate flooring, tiles cannot be laid.

Level the floor with plywood

How to level a wooden floor with plywood? In this case, the plywood is simply attached to the floor with self-tapping screws. The plywood is supported by the top of the irregularities or waves of the board.

However, this process has its own characteristics:

• if the width of the floor boards is 10-20 cm, the unevenness of the floor is insignificant, then plywood up to 10 mm thick is quite useful;
• if the width of the boards exceeds 20 cm, the unevenness of the floor is uneven, that is, they pass through the board, then plywood is needed with a thickness of more than 10 mm. It must be remembered that ordinary plywood will be ineffective in rooms with high humidity. For this, you can use a moisture resistant material.

The sheet material is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, the joints and seams are sealed with acrylic sealant. After that, the surface is decorated. For these purposes, carpet, laminate, linoleum are used. Boards are varnished when neatly aligned.

Another way to use plywood

If the difference in the height of the horizontal overlap of the house exceeds 10 cm, the use of a log is recommended. These are wooden blocks of a certain thickness. Their thickness and installation pitch are determined based on the characteristics of the plywood. So, you can take plywood 12-14 mm, then the lag step is equal to 35-40 cm.If the wood material is thicker (16-18 mm), then the lag step is 50 cm.

Stages of work:

• perform floor markings using a laser level;
• beacons are set up according to the markings. These are the same bars located at a distance of 230-300 mm from each other. They are screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws. The correctness of their installation is checked by the level. If the beacons are set incorrectly, the leveling layer will not give the expected effect. You can put linoleum on such a floor, laminate - no;
• according to the position of the lighthouses, you can install the remaining lags;
• plywood fastening is carried out only at the end of the installation of the log. It is easier to install if cut into equal squares. Installation of plywood is performed with an offset (like brickwork) using self-tapping screws.

Do not forget about the expansion gaps near the walls. The final stage is decoration. To do this, use parquet, laminate, linoleum, carpet.

Floor screed on wooden planks

It is possible to level the floor with a wet screed if it was originally laid on a concrete base or there are logs on brick posts under it. The distance between the support posts and the thickness of the floor itself is sufficient to withstand the load of cement or concrete mortar. Theoretically, on a wooden floor, a wet, cement screed is acceptable, the thickness of which does not exceed 5-7 cm. However, one must remember that the load on the floor will increase to 75-100 kg / m2. Plasticizers and microfiber for reinforcement must be added to the leveling material. Otherwise, the floor screed will simply crack, since a pure cement mortar is inelastic.

The technology for leveling boards with a wet screed does not differ from the classical method of organizing the rough layer. After the cement stone has matured, you can put linoleum, laminate, parquet or any other decorative material on it.

Despite the impressive list of advantages, the wooden flooring requires renovation over time. Cracks may appear, boards begin to sag and deform. Of course, this does not happen in a year, and not in two. But sooner or later it will be necessary to decide how to level the coating.

Especially if planned. This finishing layer requires an even base, which can be achieved in several ways. We will consider all this below.

Why is it necessary to level the floor?

Many are interested in the question not of how to level the wooden floor, but why it is necessary. We hasten to assure you that this is an extremely important step in the installation of a new flooring, which also extends the life of the main floor. All cracks, irregularities, deformations have a negative effect on the general appearance and on the finish coat. It doesn't matter if it is carpet or ceramic tiles. Trouble is inevitable in any case. For example, linoleum in places where the floorboards are curved will fray and crack, and the laminate will immediately begin to creak and the joints, accordingly, will not hold together securely.

Floor leveling methods.

So, if you do not know how to level a wooden laminate floor, then it is worth learning the basic methods that are actively used today. It should be noted that the choice depends on the initial state of the foundation.

• Looping;

• Self-leveling mixtures;

• Floor putty;

• Laying plywood sheets.

In order to understand how to level the wooden floor under the tiles, and in what cases each option is used, we will consider all the methods separately.

Looping.

We can say that this is the most time consuming method of alignment, but at the same time it is the most effective. It is suitable in the event that it is not planned to lay a new coating, and the design is limited to varnishing or painting the renewed floor.

There are two methods of scraping, manual and mechanical. In the first case, a manual scraper is used, and in the second, a scraper. The manual method is already outdated and does not justify labor and time costs at all, so we will consider the mechanical method.

Tools for the job:

The most important thing is taking care of your own health, so get these things:

• a respirator that will protect your lungs from dust;

• headphones that isolate you from noise (and the level is very high);

• gloves or heavy gloves as needed to reduce vibration from the device.

Premises preparation:

Be sure to take out all furniture, curtains, paintings. Thus, you will protect things from fine dust. You can cover the shelves with foil, securing the edges with tape. The doorway is covered with a film, and the windows, on the contrary, are opened so that the dust is weathered.

Coating preparation:

If the floorboards are in good condition, no partial replacement is required. In this case, carefully inspect the floor. If the heads of nails or screws are on the surface, then it is necessary to drown them into the floor to a sufficiently large depth. Failure to do this will inevitably damage your equipment.

Floor scrapping:

We start from the corner, moving around the room like a snake. We use a coarse grain tape for this. This is how we remove the first layer.

You will still find a hand-held scraper useful for floor cleaning in hard-to-reach places - near walls. At the end of the work, it is necessary to vacuum, but wait a little with this, allowing the dust to settle. Before varnishing or painting the floor is wiped with a cloth dipped in white spirit.

Self-leveling mixtures:

If you are looking for a way to level a wood floor under a laminate, then the previous option will not work for you. In this case, the work will be more time consuming, but you will get a proper base for the top coat. It should be noted that this method is also suitable for further tiling.

Let's take a closer look at the process of leveling the floor.

Preparation of the base.

We make all spring elements fixed, for which we use self-tapping screws or screws.

We deepen the hats into the floor, as in the case of scraping.

We carefully grind the base, removing paint residues, dirt, varnish.

All obvious gaps and voids are filled with acrylic putty or the same mixture, but in a thicker consistency.

After the composition has dried, the floor is primed in several layers with a moisture-proof primer, which ensures reliable adhesion of the mixture to the base.

A polystyrene joint is created at the walls, after which the floor level can be determined.

Pouring the mixture.

Before starting to pour the mixture, we fasten the reinforcing mesh to the base with a stapler. All joints are connected with an overlap of about 5 cm.

We prepare the mixture according to the instructions, mixing it with a drill with a nozzle. Leave the solution for 10-15 minutes and stir again. Now you can start laying directly.

Pour the mixture in portions, spreading with a roller over the entire surface.

Using a spatula, usually or a rubber squeegee, spread the mixture over the surface.

Drying of the solution is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

A few tips:

Observe all the rules indicated on the packaging of the mixture. The specified thermal regime must be maintained throughout the entire period of laying the mortar and its drying.

Be careful when preparing the mixture. Excess water can provoke delamination when the coating dries, and the disadvantage is too fast drying and the impossibility of uniform distribution.

If it is planned to raise the floor level, then pouring is carried out in two passes. That is, it is undesirable to immediately lay a thick layer.

Floor putty.

This option is not particularly suitable if you are deciding how to level the wood floor under the tiles. But for linoleum or carpet, this is the ideal way.

Putty mixtures based on sawdust and PVA are very popular. With their help, you can level a wooden covering of a sufficiently large area. At the same time, the cost of materials is low, and this makes repairs also economically profitable.

Procedure:

• lighthouse strips are stuffed on the cleaned coating according to the level;

• the space between them is filled with a mixture of the consistency of "thick sour cream";

• so that the sawdust does not draw water out of the glue, it is advisable to moisten them in advance, and then squeeze them out a little;

• if a thick layer of putty is required, then form the coating in layers of 1-2 cm. In this case, each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried;

• we check the result with a level, and if necessary, fill the irregularities with the same mixture.

Laying plywood sheets

This is one of the most popular ways to fix uneven wood flooring. But first, you need to decide how to level the wooden floor under the plywood.

Everything is quite simple here. Damaged floorboards are screwed to the base or logs with self-tapping screws. If the deformation is too great, then such boards are replaced with new ones.

Next, you need to install beacons - self-tapping screws, which are screwed to a certain height in squares of 20-30 cm. Moreover, the thicker the plywood, the less often beacons are installed. After that, we lay the logs in the form of plywood strips and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Preparation of plywood sheets:

It is advisable to pre-cut the sheets into squares with a side of 60 cm. It should be noted that before purchasing sheets, it is advisable to inspect them. If delamination is detected at the ends of the blanks, then such material is not suitable for work. If a defect is detected at the installation site, the sheets are replaced with new ones.

Laying plywood sheets:

We install the finished squares on the formed log mesh, taking into account the location of the plywood joints, since they should fall on the logs. It is highly desirable that masonry be carried out with an offset of the sheets, which is necessary to exclude the intersection of the four seams. Fix each plywood sheet with countersunk self-tapping screws.

If you mark the joints in advance with chalk, then during installation you will significantly save time and effort.

With this leveling, you can get a flat subfloor, which is suitable for the further installation of any topcoat.

By adhering to clear rules, you will not have a question about how to level a wooden floor or how to correct defects. The whole process is not very complicated, but it requires a certain amount of labor.