When the polyurethane foam hardens, it increases in volume, and the window sill can, when raised, deform. Therefore, before foaming the window sill, the panel is loaded using any available weights - containers with water, books, collapsible dumbbells. They will hold it in place and the foam will be squeezed out along its entire length. The excess of the hardened foam is cut off with a knife and the final finishing is carried out.
After installing the window sill, all gaps and crevices found in the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and at the bottom of the window are eliminated with silicone sealant. It is applied in a thin strip and compacted by swiping with your finger. Surplus is promptly removed with a damp cloth. Once dry, this will be more difficult and the result will be less flavorful.
Excess dried foam is also removed by cutting it off with a clerical knife to a depth of 1 cm. Further, the surface under the panel and large voids found flush with the wall are filled with ordinary plaster. On the ends of the window sill, using glue for PVC products, plugs are installed. At the end of all work, after the final finishing of the slopes, it remains to remove the protective film.
As you can see, installing a window sill on your own does not require special skills. The only significant obstacle may be the lack of the necessary tools and the purchase of consumables (their leftovers may no longer be useful). Accordingly, the costs will be higher than the services of a qualified specialist.
Installation instructions for a plastic window sill
Materials and tools:
Installation of PVC window sill.
- plastic profile;
- bars;
- wedges;
- metal stripes;
- sealant;
- polyurethane foam;
- special glue;
- building level;
- pencil;
- jigsaw;
- saw;
- drill;
- gun for polyurethane foam;
- staples;
- self-tapping screws.
First you need to prepare materials for work. Then you need to take the necessary measurements. In this case, take into account the properties of the PVC profile, the height of the heating radiator. If the distance between the window sill and the radiator is too small, it can impair air circulation.
The model should be several centimeters longer than the window width. When choosing the width of the model, it is necessary to take into account that the window sill recedes from the plane of the wall by no more than 8 cm. If the product is too wide, this can disrupt air circulation between the radiator and the structure.
Then the structure is trimmed. You can order a ready-made exhibit with standard dimensions, or cut it out with your own hands from a PVC profile. In this case, you need to leave a margin of about 5 cm. It is necessary to check if there are any defects on the product. In some cases, the model should be trimmed to fit the window. To do this, markup with a pencil is first performed.
Plastic models can be up to 3 m long. The width of the model is usually from 25 to 75 cm. If the product is wider than necessary, it is cut from the side that is mounted to the wall. The cut line should run 1 cm beyond the stiffeners inside the model.
The product must be cut with a jigsaw or a saw. At the same time, make sure that no cracks appear. Sawing work is carried out in protective gloves.
Then they move on to the next stage of work - the installation of the lining. This work is done with bars. They are placed under the windowsill. All the load from the product is transferred to the bars. If the product has cracks, then they are filled with polyurethane foam.
Then it is necessary to check whether the product adheres firmly enough to the frame. Next, you need to cut down the slopes to the wall. The installation site of the structure is cleaned of contamination. The wedges are fixed on which the window sill is installed. The wedges should not protrude beyond the level of the wall. The product is installed in the groove. The structure must be close to the window frame. The gap between the wall and the product must not exceed 4 mm. The part of the structure that protrudes beyond the internal slopes must adjoin the wall closely without gaps.
Metal strips are mounted under the structure, which enter the lower plug of the window sill. This is necessary in order to ensure the strength of the product. Then the structure is installed in its place. To do this, the product is pre-leveled and then fixed. Fixing the model can be done in several ways, which were described earlier. The length of the product must be greater than the distance between the slopes.
Back to the table of contents
Installation work
The first step is cleaning. It is better to produce it with a construction vacuum cleaner, since brushes and brushes are not able to remove all dust.
Moisture is required for good adhesion of foam to other materials. Therefore, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water. But you can go further and kill two birds with one stone. You do not need to use water, but a primer. In this way, dust residues can be removed, as well as provide the necessary moisture. It can be applied with a brush, but it is more convenient to do it with a hand spray. If you use the latter, then cover the windows with something or wipe them immediately. If you let the impregnation dry, then then it will have to be removed with consequences.
Better to use a primer
The window sill is being marked. Its total width will be the width of the opening plus 10 cm (this overlap is necessary to provide 5 cm for each "ear"). The depth will be equal to the distance from the window stand to the middle of the heater if it is under the window. Better not to cover it completely. If you do this, then warm air will not flow to the glass, and they will fog up, which will lead to the accumulation of condensation and the growth of mold and mildew. If there is no battery and radiator, then the overhang can be carried out by 5 cm. In some cases, at the request of the customer, an even larger protrusion is made. Perhaps the space will be used as an extension of the desktop or something else. In this case, it is necessary to install metal corners as props. Their base is embedded in the plaster. The length of the window sill is adjusted taking into account that the edges will be recessed by 1 cm into the wall.
Features of installing PVC window sill
Using a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw, trimming is carried out.
Wooden wedges for plastic windows
Next, you need to prepare the props on which the plane will lie. Special plastic plates are often used, but they may not provide the required rigidity. Instead, you can use parts of a trimmed window sill. It is worth placing them every 40‒50 cm. They are exposed using a building level or using a level (when using the latter, a line is projected and measurements are taken from it at two ends to the supports, the distance should be the same). Their height should be such that the window sill goes right next to the bottom of the frame and rests on the mounting bar. In order not to move them in the process, you can fix them with self-tapping screws. If the platform is made of a gas block, then you can simply screw it through with self-tapping screws, in the case of a brick, you will have to use perforators.
PVC window sill installation scheme
You can go the other way and install the supports not across, but along the windowsill. They can be crafted from plaster beacons. In this case, there will be a greater emphasis, which will definitely exclude deflections and creases.
Sill alignment
With the help of a pistol and polyurethane foam, the cracks that may be under the window are sealed. You need to be especially careful about the corners. There are times that everything is installed beautifully, and a draft blows from below, which is an indicator of carelessness.
Fixing
Plugs are mounted on the window sill, and it is tried on in its place. If there are no gaps between it and the window, then you can continue the installation. In the case where the gap is large enough, it is necessary to raise the props; at its minimum values, it can be expected that the foam will compensate for the gap. Until the repair is completely completed, you do not need to remove the film, it will be enough to lift it in those places that will hide in the wall and under the window.
Window sill bottom view
If the props were installed lengthwise, then the main layer of foam must be applied before the window sill is installed in its place. If across, then blowing can be done in several stages. Before installation - the part that is closer to the window. Then walk along the middle line, and then along the edge.
Fill the gap with polyurethane foam
For a day, the plane must be pressed down with a load. To do this, you can use books, egg bottles with water, dumbbells (but it is advisable to make a lining of durable material under them), etc.
Fixing a plastic window sill
After polymerization and drying of the foam, its excess is cut off. Moreover, under the windowsill, it must be cut flush by about 1 cm, so that you can safely putty this space and the applied material has a sufficient layer.
We close up the seam under the windowsill with cement putty
How to mount a windowsill
All window sills are mounted according to the general principle. Since plastic sill boards are more often used for do-it-yourself installation, we will describe in detail the step-by-step instructions for PVC window sills, noting at the end the features of installing structures made of other materials.
Window sill width and length
Window sill width and length
Before buying materials, it is necessary to correctly measure the place where the window sill will stand. The length of the sill board is determined as follows:
- measure the width of the opening near the window and from the side that is closer to the room and turns out to be longer;
- to the maximum width of the opening, you need to add at least 1 cm on each side in order to hide the edges of the board in the slopes;
- if the window sill will stick out, and not be flush with the wall, then you need to take into account also the lugs.
To determine the width of the window sill, you need to measure the width of the wall to the window. Add 1.5 - 2 cm to the result obtained to deepen the board into the window groove. This width is sufficient if a flush-to-wall installation is planned, which is feasible for flat walls.
Measurements of windows with a quarter
Note! When the walls are uneven, it is recommended to measure them on both sides of the window. This will allow you to fit the sill and set it straight.
A protrusion can be provided, the size of which should not exceed 8 cm, so as not to impede air convection from the battery. After all, this will not only disrupt the uniform distribution of heat in the room, but also in cold weather will damage the window as a result of the formation of ice.
In accordance with the measurements obtained, the window sill is adjusted to the required length and width. Now you can start installing.
Dismantling the old window
Fastening the window and sill
Window sill installation
Step 1. Try on the future window sill at the installation site. Trim the board if necessary.
Note! Cutting plastic and stone is recommended with a grinder, a jigsaw is more suitable for wood, MDF and chipboard.
Step 2. Make grooves in the walls with a puncher, if necessary. The edges of the window sill will go into these recesses.
Preparing the opening with a puncher
Cut off the window sill to size
Step 3. Clean the installation surface from dust and debris.
Step 4. A window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, after removing the protective film from the edge to be inserted.
A window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, after removing the protective film from the edge to be inserted
Step 5. Wooden wedges are laid under the window sill, starting with the outer ones and ending with the central ones. Substrates should not protrude beyond the wall and the inner edge of the window sill. The maximum distance between the wedges should be 40 cm.
Foam with low expanding foam
Step 6.. If there are deviations from the horizon, then they rule with additional wedges.
Align the windowsill with the spirit level
Align the windowsill with the spirit level
Note! The board should have a slope from the window to the inner edge of about 0.2 cm. This measure will prevent the accumulation of liquid near the window: water will simply drain.
Wall-flush installation
Step 7. Load is placed on the windowsill. The total load should be 10-20 kg.
Load is placed on the windowsill
Step 8. After we additionally checked the horizontal position of the sill board, they proceed to fix it. For this, polyurethane foam is used. Better to use professional foam and a special spray gun. Additional fixation to the window profile is carried out from the outside using self-tapping screws.
Foaming the window sill
Note! When the foam gets where it shouldn't be, it is removed immediately with a cloth. If it has already hardened, then you can wipe off the foam using special solvents.
Step 9. After 24 hours, remove the weight and trim off excess foam.
Now you can install the plugs from the ends, and remove the protective film.
If a decision is made to install a wooden window sill, then on the inside of the board it is necessary to attach an antiseptic felt felt with the help of shredding. The ends of stone window sills are also protected with a felt layer before installation. Otherwise, the installation takes place according to the same principle as for plastic products.
Installation of window sills
Thus, the installation of a window sill is not difficult, especially when it comes to a plastic board. The main thing is to observe accuracy in alignment during work and not to overdo it with polyurethane foam.
Video - Window sill installation
Style and design
Since metal-plastic windows are often white, PVC window sills were originally made only in this version. With the growing popularity of these products, different color schemes for both windows and window sills began to appear. The most common variation of white is wood imitation, which is used in bedrooms or in children's rooms. In addition, this option allows you to install modern structures in a wooden house, which will not stand out outwardly, fitting into the concept of the structure.
For the production of this kind of products, laminated PVC films for wood are used. To impart the desired properties, impregnation with melamine resin is additionally carried out.
This way you can give the surface the look of any wood, be it oak, alder or cherry.
In addition, window sills with a natural stone finish, most often granite or marble, are also popular. Thanks to this solution, you can avoid buying an expensive and heavy product, but get an equally beautiful window design option. If you need to somehow decorate the room, which is especially often the case with a children's room, then you can resort to using color options for window sills.
They can have different textures and shapes, which are selected taking into account the wishes of the client.
If we talk about convenience, then for each type of house there are options of different lengths and widths, so that you can use the space as correctly as possible. Brickwork differs in width from the walls of a panel house, therefore, different window sills are needed here. If we talk about original design solutions, then you can make a window sill-countertop, which will perform two functions at once, thereby making it possible to do without buying a table.
This option will look good in small kitchens or bedrooms, where you need to place many functional areas in a small space.
The use of a glossy or matte finish, original shapes and sizes are all that the owner of a PVC window sill can get. Often such options are made to order and they cost a little more, but the appearance of a room with such an accessory will be inimitable. Each owner decides for himself what to install in his home based on taste preferences and financial capabilities.
How to wash the windowsill
When common home remedies such as: soap, soda, vinegar, tooth powder, chalk proved to be powerless in the fight against pollution, special chemicals will come to the rescue. A selection of modern household chemicals will be able to cope with any dirt on the plastic surface. You just need to correctly formulate your problem to the sales assistant in the household chemicals department, emphasizing that you need a plastic cleaner.
Careful use and regular maintenance will help you avoid the problems associated with washing difficult dirt. The main thing is not to use metal scrapers and abrasive products: they leave scratches in which dirt accumulates later.
As a decoration of the house space, you should consider a waterfall, an alpine slide, a fountain, a wattle fence, a flower bed of stones, a trellis, a rose garden, a mixborder, a dry stream.
It is up to you to install the window sill plate with your own hands or use the services of a specialized construction team. In fact, the process of installing a window sill is not difficult, but it requires the availability or purchase of the necessary tools, consumables (the remnants of which may no longer be useful) and work skills. If the first attempt to install a PVC plate with your own hands is unsuccessful, then the total cost of self-installation may turn out to be much more than the wages of the master.
Video: how to install a window sill with your own hands
What is the window sill made of
The materials from which window sills are made today can be different. The type of sill board determines the way of its installation.
Wooden window sills
Wooden window sills
Wood, for example, oak, cherry, pine, has long been the most common material used to make a window sill. Wooden window sills do not lose their connoisseurs to this day. The wood is pre-dried and treated with antiseptic solutions and varnish.
Wooden window sills
Wooden window sills
The main advantage of a wooden window sill board is its natural origin and noble appearance. But such material is expensive, and solid wood products are subject to deformation. To preserve the window sill, you need to protect it from the effects of abrasives, water and aggressive chemicals, and also periodically renew the coating.
Wooden window sills
Glued laminated timber boards have a lower cost and greater resistance to external influences if they are made in compliance with the technology.
Particleboard and MDF
As a cheaper alternative to wood, many firms produce window boards from chipboard or fiberboard. The products are covered with a special film on top. MDF is a more durable and moisture resistant material in comparison with chipboard. If the integrity of the film is violated, water that has got on the board from the chips can lead to swelling and significant deformation. MDF is more expensive, but more stable.
Window sills made of wood shavings or fibers are very easy to clean. The main thing is not to use abrasives.
Stone products
Stone sill
Connoisseurs of natural materials often prefer stone windowsill boards. Most often it is granite or marble. Stone products are beautiful, each window sill has a unique pattern. But this pleasure is not cheap.
In addition, it is easy to leave a scratch on polished natural stone surfaces. Stone windowsills easily absorb dirt, such as coffee, wine or tea stains. And their thermal insulation is weak. Due to the high cost and high weight, it is better to invite professionals to install a stone window sill.
Marble window sills
An alternative to a natural stone window sill is an acrylic-based artificial stone board. Such products are not inferior in strength, heat resistance and beauty, but at the same time they are cheaper and do not get scratched.
Plastic window sills
Plastic window sills
PVC products in construction are becoming more and more popular every year. This also applies to plastic window sills, which have a whole list of advantages.
- From above, the windowsills are covered with a laminating film, which can have various colors and patterns. This allows you to choose a product in accordance with the overall decorative line of the room.
- Plastic is resistant to moisture and is not a breeding ground for microorganisms, including molds, which is especially appreciated by indoor plant lovers.
- Modern plastic window sills, due to special stiffening ribs, tolerate mechanical loads well.
- These products are easy to clean.
- Do not impair their qualities from exposure to direct sunlight.
- They are not afraid of temperature changes.
- They keep warm well.
- Easy to assemble by yourself. Plastic window sills for wood texture
The PVC window sill also has disadvantages:
- non-natural origin of the material;
- decorative laminate can peel off and be easily scratched;
- high temperatures, such as a hot saucepan, can deform the windowsill.
However, plastic window sills are most often used for self-installation.
Plastic window sills
Subtleties of installation
In order to install a new PVC window sill with your own hands, you need to correctly install the structure. The installation process of such parts can be carried out using:
- polyurethane foam and special glue, which are used to fix the window sill;
- fixing brackets;
- profile for installing PVC products.
The easiest and most convenient option for installation is the option with foam. The first step is to prepare wooden wedges, which will serve as a support for the new window sill. They are placed over the entire surface of the prepared base.
It is important to check the flatness of the installation using a level and note the slope of the product. It is necessary that the bevel is directed into the room in order to give direction to the condensate not towards the stove, but into the room
If there are any inconsistencies in these indicators, then the wooden wedges can be increased, or, conversely, reduced, depending on the situation.
All work is carried out in stages to avoid installation errors and unsatisfactory results. As soon as the wedges are of suitable dimensions, the free space between the sill and the base is covered with foam. So that the angle of inclination does not change, it is important to install a weight on the windowsill, which will give the required resistance, so the foam will solidify correctly. For complete solidification, at least two or even three days should pass, after which you can remove the weight and use the window sill.
The process of installing a window and sill goes step by step, and it is important to consider all the stages in order to get a decent result in the end. This process is inextricably linked with wall decoration, therefore, when planning the installation option, you need to think in advance about how further work will be carried out.
- If you plan to put the window sill before finishing with sandwich panels or drywall, then you do not need to groove at the bottom. By increasing the thickness, the board will be pressed with the finishing material.
- If the slopes are lined with varnish or paint over putty, then in this case it is imperative to gouge the surface.
If it is planned to use massive elements in the form of wooden panels, lining, cork, Venetian plaster for finishing the window, then it is important to take into account the protrusion of the slab, taking into account the thickness of the coating. Otherwise, it will be recessed inside the opening, which will not look aesthetically pleasing.
Thus, replacing a window requires that the old concrete sill is also dismantled and replaced with a new one. For the convenience of further work, it is advisable to remove the old structure without much damage to the masonry.
You can replace a heavy and outdated window sill with the help of a modern PVC product, which is not only light and strong enough, but also has a varied appearance that can be matched to the style of the room, which is very convenient.
The work process is reduced to the following stages:
- Installing a new product, putting it into the grooves prepared in advance.
- Aligning the window sill with the window using wooden wedges.
- The fixing process, when the window sill can be attached, can be made using polyurethane foam, which will provide excellent performance for many years.
- The use of stubs, which can be of different shapes. Depending on the design features of the window sill, they can be without ears, if the thickness of the product is quite large and there is a desire to make it look like a stone monolith, or with ears with a minimum thickness and a simple version of the window element.
To change the window sill quickly and correctly, it is important to complete all the stages, which include dismantling old structures, installing new ones and finishing work. This is important, because incorrect dismantling of an old product will add unnecessary work, inaccuracies in installing a new one will lead to operational problems, and improper finishing work will affect the final appearance.
To remove the foam that remains after installation, you must first cut it off with a clerical knife, and then apply a layer of tile glue, which must be putty after drying. Only after that the surface can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper.
PVC window sill marking
Following the technology of installing a turnkey plastic window, the plastic window sill should be installed after the plastic window has already been installed. In the previous article, I already said that the ebb and the window sill are installed simultaneously.
In order to understand how to install a window sill on plastic windows, you need to understand for yourself that the most important operation in this process is marking the PVC window sill. Further, step-by-step verified instructions with a photo, and my video is at the end of the article.
First, we take a piece of paper and a pencil. We draw a window in a section in width, in a simple one, in the form of an elongated rectangle. View from above. And we enter the value of the window width into our rectangle.
Secondly, we find the starting point of the marking. This is done as follows. We remove the length of the window sill. We write the value above the rectangle. We get two numeric values \u200b\u200bper column that need to be subtracted. As in school, in the first grade))).
Divide the resulting difference in half. And we get the main figure, determined by the starting point of the marking of the PVC window sill. This figure is equal to the distance from the edge of the window sill to the edge of the frame on each side.
Thus, after installing the window sill and slopes, we will have the same:
- Side ledges of the sill - "ears" and
- Dawn angles of slopes
Thirdly, continuing the marking, we take two locksmith squares (90 degrees) with a scale of 30 cm and 50 cm. gap. The main thing is to understand that the position of the square is the future position of the cut-off window sill. It remains only to remove the first dimension along the length of the window sill, and write down this dimension on our sheet of paper, on which the starting point of measurement has already been determined.
Fourth, with the help of the second square, pressing it against the inner wall of the room, we fix the second size according to the width of the window sill. After that, the last cutting line of the side protrusion is automatically obtained.
Similarly, the dimensions are taken on the right side of the window sill.
After that, the markings are applied to the windowsill itself.
This markup we have seen is the simplest one. It is produced in a flat perpendicular opening.
It happens that the opening has a step configuration, then it is necessary to take several measurements. But, the principle of markup does not change.
Fifthly, if the opening has an angle, then the marking of the PVC window sill is carried out at an angle. To do this, as in the first case, press the large square with one side to the window sill profile, and direct the other perpendicular side at an angle. Let's imagine that this will be the angular cut line. And we attach the second square to the inner wall of the room. The intersection point of the gons is the end point. We fix its value. Further, leaving the second small square in a fixed position, we again attach the large square to the window sill profile at 90 degrees. We fix the second value at the intersection of the gons.
Thus, the marking of the PVC window sill is done. It must also be said that the cut-off line of the side ledge can be either flush with the inner wall of the room or buried in this wall. It depends on whether the customer will make repairs after installing the window.
Markup
Of course, before you put the window sill, you need to mark it. We measure the width of the window block, let it be 140 cm with us. We will buy the window sill 15-20 centimeters longer, since it should extend beyond the plane of the slopes by 7-10 cm (it's a matter of taste). So, we bought a 155-centimeter one. We put it aside for now.
We look close at our window opening: 
Everything is in order with him, the foam layer will turn out to be about 2-3 cm. If you get more, it will be better to raise the lower "slope", for example, with a self-leveling floor. This will make the design stronger (my personal opinion). Shortly before installation, the surface will need to be primed, do not forget.
Window sill markup
Next, we must find the exact middle of the window (we have 70 cm from the edges) and, accordingly, the exact middle of the window sill (77.5 cm). In addition, we draw their central axes with a pencil. It is from them that we will postpone all sizes so that the final result is symmetrical. In the course of the article, you will understand what I mean.
Now we take the dimensions. There are four of them to be removed, I labeled them A, B, C and D.
- A - approximately equal to the width of the window block, perhaps a little more, if space allows; but nothing less.
- B - the distance between the corners of the rough slopes. As a rule, it is more than A by several centimeters.
- B is the distance between the far edge of our hero and the plane of the wall.
Under the window block there is a special groove with a depth of about 2 cm, where it starts. You need to measure precisely from the groove, and not from the plane of the window, be careful. Here it is also highly desirable that the wall with the window was already plastered. Hollow out a little plaster under the "ears" and measure B so that they start "inside" the plane of the wall. 
All the cut edges will then simply be covered with slopes and a wall.
- G is the total width of the sill.
It is chosen in such a way that it would cover vertically no more than half the thickness of the radiator under the window.
Otherwise, in cold weather, condensation will form on the windows, since the warm air from the radiator will not reach the glass. Usually the protrusion is made 5-7 cm, it is undesirable to do more. Installers often make a mistake in this.
Marked windowsill
This is how our window sill will look after marking:
Cut off window sill
And after cutting like this:
Fitting
We try it on in place, insert it into the groove, set it manually to about a level, inspect it for jambs:
Everything is in order here, you can set the height of the window sill. Since ancient times, wooden wedges have been used for this, but in general, anything can be used as props. This time I conducted an experiment and used not wedges, but ordinary self-tapping screws, which I exposed along the laser.
I must say that the experiment was only partially successful. The near edge was exposed easily and quickly, but difficulties arose with the far edge (the one that goes into the groove). After all, who installs windows in our country? That's right, Uncle Vasya. And I did not take into account that the windows, in fact, may not stand strictly horizontally and even bend!
I had to put improvised means under the far edge, namely Penoplex insulation. It is necessary to ensure that there is no noticeable gap between the window sill and the window, that is, it should be tightly pressed against the window block from below.
It may be that the window goes in an arc. In this case, you need to choose the least evil. In my opinion, the main thing is the absence of a gap, and the surface roughness is not particularly noticeable to the eye.
Two requirements are imposed on the near edge: it must be strictly horizontal, and must be lower than the far edge, that is, the window sills are placed at a slope.
The slope is usually 5-10 mm per meter. That is, for a window sill 60 cm thick, the near edge should be 3-6 mm lower than the far one. This bias is invisible to the eye.
And it is done in order to prevent puddles, for example, when watering flowers. The water will flow down. Basically, if you don't want to make a bias, don't. I am only describing a general case. If you use wedges, slide them behind the plane of the wall so that later they do not get in the way and you do not have to pull them out.
When setting a slope, it is more convenient to use not our product itself, but scraps from it. Inserts one end into the groove, place a level on the cut and evaluate the slope. As soon as everything is set, we once again insert the "patient" in place and see if there are any cracks, and whether the desired slope is provided: 
By the way, the photo shows that, firstly, I partially tore off the film from the far edge. I think it's clear why. Secondly, I aligned the center axis of the window and sill. We see that there are no gaps. If you use wedges, there is a possibility that they might slip.
To prevent this from happening, you can coat them with a plaster solution, for example, alabaster. Then they will definitely not go anywhere.
We can proceed with the installation.
Preparation for work
The preparatory stage includes measurements of the future structure, as well as all materials and tools, as well as the preparation of the window opening for the installation of a new window sill.
Before buying, you need to make several measurements, namely:
- Window sill width. It is equal to the width of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
- Sill length. Measured as the length of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
It should be borne in mind that too large and wide window sill can significantly impair air circulation, therefore, water droplets will accumulate on the windows and their service life will be reduced.
From tools, you should prepare or purchase:
- Jigsaw or grinder.
- Level.
- A hammer.
- Corner ruler.
- Masking tape.
Materials you need:
- Construction foam.
- Sealant.
- End caps.
- Suitable size PVC panel.
- Plastic underlays.
Surface preparation for installing a window sill
First, you need to remove the old structure. This is done with a jigsaw or a hacksaw. Next, you need to remove the cement screed around the edges.
Clear the space of debris, loose material, insulation and other things. This will ensure that the new window sill is securely attached. It is best to vacuum the base under the windowsill, so you are guaranteed to reliably clean the base.
If you are planning to install a window sill with side projections, then you should create small openings so that the panel can be inserted easily. First, the walls are cut, then the opening of the required size is knocked out with a hammer. The openings should be the same on both sides and such that the PVC panel is easy to insert.
After cleaning the base under the windowsill, it should be well primed to ensure the adhesion of the mortar to level the base.
Preparatory stage of work
Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to prepare the workplace. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:
- level;
- jigsaw;
- roulette;
- hacksaw;
- pencil;
- polyurethane foam;
- foam gun;
- puncher;
- drills for a hammer drill;
- a hammer;
- chisel;
- wooden bars;
- bit.
The window sill is installed so that it fits into the side wall, so it will be necessary to cut out connectors about two centimeters deep in the slopes.
To carry out this procedure, you need to attach the plastic window sill to the wall and make the appropriate marks on it with a marker, then carefully knock out the grooves. Such an operation requires maximum concentration and accuracy, otherwise it will take a long time to restore the slopes.
Important! In order to minimize damage on slopes, they should be handled very carefully during the entire installation. ... Next, we move on to performing indentations.
- The slopes are made of gypsum plaster. In this case, the procedure can be carried out with a hammer or chisel.
- Concrete slopes. Then you can make recesses for a plastic window sill using a punch.
After completing all the above manipulations, you need to clean the support profile and the lower part of the window from pieces of plaster and dust, since these materials are used to install the window sill. Then the cleaned surfaces are moistened, it is better to use a primer for these purposes, which strengthens the surface.
Note! In order to prevent the appearance of drafts from the window, all the cracks of the window frame must be well blown out with foam. ...
Foundation preparation
This step can take most of the time, but it is actually the most important step in the entire process.
See how the window is installed
It is important to assess if there are any deviations from the horizontal plane. To do this, we apply a level or along the lower edge of the frame we start a projection from a laser level
In the future, the window sill will be exposed exactly on it, which can also lead to distortion. If there are small deviations, then this is not scary, further it will be described how they can be compensated.
We measure the width of the window opening. It is important to remember that the plane of the stand should be recessed into the slopes by 1 cm from each end, and the protruding part on the sides should go beyond the opening by 3 cm or more.
We make grooves in the slopes, where the ends of the window sill will go. The edge of the frame will serve as a guide in this regard.
Pay attention to the edge of the stand on which the window stands, namely the bottom edge of the frame.
In order to do everything right, you can use several methods. With the help of a laser plane builder, a horizontal line is projected onto the opening. From this line along the window, a measurement is made to the edge, the value is fixed. Further from the same line, the same distance is laid, but already on the slope. If there is no level, then you can use either an ordinary level, which is placed close to the bottom line of the frame, is aligned horizontally on the bubble indicator and a mark is made.
A straight line is drawn that will connect our mark and the edge of the frame.
Most likely, there is a metal corner at the corners of the slopes. In no case should you try to knock it down with a chisel and a hammer, so you can damage it completely. For this, it is better to use a grinder. Just make two small transverse cuts across its width. An incision is also made along the marked line.
Slope preparation
With the help of a chisel or other suitable tool and a hammer, indentations of 1.5‒2 cm are knocked out.
Next, you need to evaluate the surface on which the installation will be carried out. Attention should be paid not only to how uneven it is, but also to how far from it to the bottom of the window. Ideally, it should not exceed 4 cm. This is due to the fact that it is with this thickness that the foam polymerizes in the best way, which makes it quite dense and durable. If the size of the layer is large, then voids can form inside, which reduces the bearing capacity, and can also cause drafts.
In the event that the size exceeds 4 cm, it is necessary to reduce the gap. This can be done with the help of available tools. For example, you can build a small formwork from the rule and pour the solution. In this case, it will be easier to deduce the required level. If the installation is carried out at a time when there are still remnants of a brick or foam block from the partitions inside the room, then the base can be laid out of them, and all the cracks can be sealed with mortar or glue. After that, you need to give at least a day for everything to stand and grab.
In the event that the level of the base will rise with the help of a foam block, it must be soaked in water for a short time. Due to its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, and if it takes too much of it from the solution on which it will be placed, there will be no seizure. Wetting saturates the foam block with moisture, so the setting will be the best possible.
Preparatory stage and its features
At this stage, it is necessary to measure the window sill and purchase material for self-installation.
Required tools:
Sill installation diagrams when using a stand profile.
- building level;
- an electric jigsaw or fine-toothed file;
- self-tapping screws;
- electric or cordless screwdriver;
- metal plates;
- special linings (wooden blocks or very dense synthetic material);
- construction foam;
- foam gun;
- silicone.
The size of the system is carried out with a tape measure. It should be 5-10 cm larger than the width of the window opening. It should be borne in mind that if, when installing a wide device, it closes the heating radiator, then the air flow in the room will be disrupted, the temperature will change. Therefore, the most acceptable width is one that will allow it to protrude no more than 8 cm from the wall level.The length of the product must exceed the distance between the slopes so that the element can enter it by 2-3 cm.In addition, it should protrude beyond the slopes 5 cm.
The design itself can be different: smooth, ribbed, rough. It all depends on personal preference, the appearance of the window and the style of the interior.
At the same stage, it is necessary to remove all debris from the bottom of the wall on which the window sill will be installed. If there are exfoliated plaster elements, they must be removed. If a rather large gap has formed, it must be repaired with mortar. Further installation can be carried out after its final solidification.
Replacing a window sill or installing a new one with your own hands is the most important moment in installing any type of window. The fact is that it is designed to play not only an aesthetic role in the interior, but also a protective one. It is he who is constantly affected by all kinds of temperature drops and mechanical loads. It is he who suffers from the constant ingress of moisture and the rays of the sun on him. And it is all these moments that largely determine the features of its installation.
The materials used for the manufacture of window sills can be very diverse - wood, PVC, marble, etc. And, of course, all the nuances of the installation will depend on them to some extent. However, for this action, there is still a general list of recommendations that allow you to navigate in the work algorithm itself.
- The window sill is fixed inside the room and below the window opening;
- Below on the windowsill, a maximum of 60 mm from its edge, there is a gutter - a teardrop up to 20 mm deep, necessary for water drainage;
- The final stage of installation occurs only after the preparation of the lower plugs;
- The lower part of the side slope solution is cut down to the wall. Then the wall is cleaned of debris, dust, dirt, etc.:
The window sill is placed like this:
- So that the board is in a strictly horizontal position (measured using a level), and the transverse slope of the window sill inward from the window box is approximately 3 0;
- The wedges, which are the basis for the installation, must not extend beyond the wall. Therefore, if they are installed correctly, they will need to be additionally fixed with plaster.
- After that, they proceed to removing the window sill, wetting the wall with water and covering it with lime-gypsum mortar, so that the level of the solution exceeds the level of the wedges by 15 mm;
- The window sill is placed in the mortar and pressed against the wedges with force until it stops;
- At the last stage, the excess mortar is smoothed and pressed flush with the plaster of the wall, followed by rubbing. In this case, the window sill itself enters the groove made on the bar at the bottom of the box. In relation to the side slopes located in the lower part, the same actions are performed - smearing with a solution and subsequent mashing.
Correctly install the window sill, so as to exclude its subsequent sagging and breaking, can be done by placing metal strips under it and introducing the ends of the latter into the lower plug. However, most often you have to deal with plastic and wooden window sills, during the installation of which strength and reliability can be achieved in its own way for each option.
Algorithm for installing the main types of window sills
Plastic
Installing a plastic window sill is very simple. No special skills or abilities are required here. It is extremely important to be careful in the process of sawing PVC, when one should do without strong pressing, so that scratches and chips do not appear at the cutting site.
- Stripping is carried out first;
- Then, using the horizon level, they expose the window sill by means of beacons. By the way, when installing the window sill, it is tilted down by 5 mm so that the moisture accumulated from condensate does not linger, but flows down;
- The free space is filled with polyurethane foam, the excess of which is subsequently carefully cut off with a construction knife;
- In conclusion, the ends of the window sill are protected with plugs, and the window sill itself is cleaned of the protective film.
Such a window sill is fixed with a special mortar or glue, but you can also use screws on mechanical supports. In order for the warm air to rise freely from the top of the battery, thereby drying the inner part of the slopes and glass unit when heating the room, the installation of a PVC window sill requires leaving a protrusion of up to 60 mm. The length of the plastic window sill should not exceed the width of the window opening by 15 - 20 cm. Inside the room, the ledge of the window sill should be at least 5 - 7 cm wide. By installing a window sill of this type over a steam heating battery, as a rule, a slight gap is left.
Wood
It is more difficult to install a wooden window sill, so people have already begun to forget about high-quality fitted wooden boards, although they are not only no less aesthetic and beautiful than plastic, but also more environmentally friendly. To properly install a window sill of this type, you will need to pay attention, first of all, to the source material. The window sill board should be free of flaws (such as knots and other defects), and, moreover, it must be well dried.
- The board is carefully peeled off on each side,
- After that, it is given the desired look and, of course, teardrops and cripples are sampled. Troughs are understood as gutters 7-9 mm wide and 5-6 mm deep, located at the bottom of the sill board at a distance of 2-3 cm from its front side;
- At the end of the processing, the board is trimmed to the desired length and shaped to the desired shape. In this case, it is important to place all window frames horizontally at the same level. By the way, it is also permissible to create composite window sills, connected with a dowel, pins and glue. The optimal length of the window sill is 10-15 cm more than the width of the window opening. And the optimal projection inwards should be 5 -8 cm less than the width of the window opening.
Do-it-yourself window sill installation in this case is done as follows:
- Work begins from the bottom of the board, which is placed on the wall. It is on it that the felt treated with antiseptics is attached, which, with the help of shredding, is attached to the board nailed down;
- The prepared board is wound on a quarter of the lower beam of the box and fastened to the box with the help of long nails, where it is fixed even more reliably. In this case, the heads of the nails are cut off and the severed ends are hammered into the lower part of the box bar, and then the window sill board is pushed onto the ends of the protruding nails. If you have to deal with brick or stone walls, the window sill will have to be fixed using lime-gypsum mortar. The window sill should slope into the room by no more than 2 0. If its ends need to be embedded in concrete or plaster, they must be treated with antiseptics.
Today on the market there is a fairly large number of different window sills, which are made of plastic, wood and other materials. The installation of such structures by specialists will be expensive, therefore many people want to know how to properly install a window sill with their own hands.
How is a plastic window sill installed?
The plastic profile is an environmentally friendly material, and all structures that are made from it are carefully controlled.
Such windowsills have many advantages:
- The structures are lightweight.
- They are easy enough to install.
- Such structures do not need to be painted.
- Plastic products are shockproof.
- Resistant to heat and light.
- Do not rot.
- Products practically do not catch fire.
Such structures can be installed even by a person who does not have the relevant work experience, and no special tools will be needed. The plastic window sill can be installed on any window in the room or on the balcony.
To properly mount such a window sill with your own hands, you need to know the sequence of actions.
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Existing methods of installing a window sill
To install a plastic structure, it is necessary to measure the parameters of the window.
There are several options for installing such structures. In the first case, the window sill is fixed with a special compound. This method is outdated and is rarely used today, as other, more modern and convenient installation methods have appeared.
In order to be able to quickly, self-tapping screws should be used. In this case, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the frame into which the fasteners are installed. The joint should be sealed with a silicone-based sealant. The extreme part of the window sill is wound under the frame and attracted with self-tapping screws. The rigidity of the structure can be made with special pads. The place under the windowsill must be treated with polyurethane foam.
During the installation of such structures, spring brackets made of metal can also be used. They should be screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws. The product is installed in the groove that is formed between the frame and the fastening element.
In the latter method, such additional devices as screws or staples will not be used. This method is labor intensive, but the most reliable. The installation principle is that special linings are installed under the structure so that its edge fits snugly under the window frame.
The last 3 methods are used quite often. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, it is impossible to fix a plastic window sill on self-tapping screws if the sash opens. All methods differ only in the way of inserting PVC window sills into the frame, all other stages of work are identical.
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How to do the preparatory work?
The first step is to purchase all the necessary tools and materials. The quality of the work performed will depend on the quality of the tools used.
Items you need:
- PVC profiles.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Silicone sealant.
- Polyurethane foam.
- Spring brackets made of metal.
- Lining.
- A simple pencil.
- Building level.
- Saw or electric jigsaw.
- Metal strips.
- Masking tape.
- Polyurethane foam.
- Nails.
- Screws.
In order to correctly install the structure for PVC windows, measurements should be taken.Strength depends on measurements and how well the structure will cope with its functions. With incorrect measurements, the design will not have the best appearance.
You should know that it will not work to fix the installed plastic or wood window sill in case of incorrect measurements. In this case, all installation work will need to be done anew.
In the process of measurements, it is necessary to take into account the properties and characteristics of plastic, as well as a number of some other parameters. These parameters include the height of the batteries located under the windows. If the distance between the two structures is small, then air circulation will be disrupted, as a result, the microclimate will deteriorate.
When measuring the installed window sill, one must take into account the fact that its length should be several centimeters larger than the width of the window. The width of the structure can be chosen based on your own preferences, but the distance between the wall and the window sill should not be more than 8 cm. If the window sill has a large width, this may affect the functions of the radiators. In the process of sizing the structure, it is necessary to check the air circulation that forms in this area.
Products are installed end-to-end to a plastic window, therefore a special profile must be attached to them, which will be used to fix the ebb.
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How to trim a window sill?
The design can be purchased ready-made or cut out of plastic yourself. If the window sill is cut from PVC, then the profile must be purchased with a margin of about 5 cm.
The first step is to check the product for defects, as they can spoil the appearance. In some cases, it may be necessary to trim the structure to fit the size of the opening. To do this, first of all, you need to correctly mark the window sill. This can be done with a simple pencil.
The maximum length of a plastic structure is 3 m. The width of the product varies between 25-70 cm. If the width of the structure is too large, then the excess can be cut off from the part from which it is fixed to the wall. The cutting line must be given special attention. It should run 0.5-1 cm behind the stiffeners that are located inside the product. In this case, the window sill will be able to fit tightly with the window frame. The back of the structure should go under the window and be firmly supported by wedges and construction foam. If the extreme part of the product loses its stiffening ribs, then the inner base will not be able to maintain the required shape at the junction, as a result of which it will bend inward.
The window sill can be cut with a saw or electric jigsaw. You can also use a hacksaw for plastic. You need to cut carefully, do not press hard on the tool so that scratches or other defects do not appear on the structure. Small pieces of plastic can get into the eyes. To avoid this, you should know the safety rules. Cut the plastic with goggles and work gloves.
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How to install the lining?
Use sticks to install the backing. They will take on the load from the windowsill. If there are potholes or crevices, then you should use polyurethane foam. At this stage, it is important to check the tightness of the product to the frame, as this indicator will guarantee the strength and reliability of the structure.
Slopes are installed. The lower part of them must be cut down to the wall, after which the installation site must be cleaned of debris. The bars on which the window sill will be held should not go beyond the wall. The blades are best fixed immediately. Thus, it will be possible to form a groove into which the structure for the windows will be installed. The sill must be adjacent to the window frame. The gap between the structure and the walls must be less than 4 mm.
The part of the window sill that protrudes beyond the slopes should fit tightly to the wall, since it is not allowed to leave gaps.
So that the structure does not deform, it is necessary to mount metal strips under it. These products must fit into the bottom plug of the product.
It is no secret that a window without a window sill looks at least ridiculous - at least some decorative "platform" under the window should be present. To date, you can arrange the bottom of a window opening in three ways: tiling it underneath, installing a wooden or plastic window sill. The latter, or rather its installation, will be discussed in this article, in which, together with the site, we will study in detail the question of how to install a PVC window sill with our own hands. We will pay special attention to the subtleties and nuances of this process.
DIY PVC window sill installation photo
DIY PVC window sill installation: preparing a window opening
In construction and repair work, preparatory work is indispensable anywhere, including when installing a PVC window sill. Here, almost everything is standard - we clean the lower part of the window opening from construction debris left after dismantling the old window sill or window, carefully prime the surface and leave it to dry.
Dismantling the old window sill photo
In addition to the standard procedures associated with cleaning the installation site of the window sill, other preparations must also be made. Rather, not preparation, but control - if you want to prevent bleeding from under the window sill, then you should check the quality of the foaming of the window frame and, if necessary, eliminate all the shortcomings. This nuance in work should be especially taken into account in the case of installing a plastic window sill, which is not associated with a complete replacement of the window block.
In addition, if the slopes in the opening are already ready, it is necessary to cut their bottom so that the window sill "goes" under them. This can be done in different ways - but in all cases you need to understand that the less you injure the slope, the easier it will be later to restore it. That's all at this stage. Now you can proceed to the direct preparation of the window sill itself.
Preparatory work before installing the window sill photo
Preparing a plastic window sill for installation
This stage is also not very difficult - all you need to do here is to properly cut it and adjust it to length. Plastic is easily cut with almost any saw tool - you can use a hacksaw for wood, and, and, and a blade for metal. The best option for cutting PVC windowsill is.
The task of fitting the window sill is to properly cut it along the length - this must be done in such a way that it freely falls into place and at the same time its edges do not look out from under the slopes.
How to install a plastic window sill photo
How to install a plastic window sill: installation features
When all the preparations are made, the new window sill is cut and the bottom of the window opening is cleaned, you can proceed to the direct installation. This process looks like this.
- Installation of a plastic window sill begins with the installation process. To begin with, it must be inserted into place and positioned so that none of its edges peep out from under the slopes - the window sill must be inserted under the window frame.
Installing a plastic window sill do it yourself photo
- The next step is to wedge the window sill between the window opening and the window frame. For this purpose, as a rule, wooden wedges are used - they are installed along the edges of the window sill and in the middle. When installing them, you need to control the absence of a gap between the window frame and the window sill.
- When the fixing of the far edge of the PVC window sill is finished, you should tackle its front edge. Between it and the window opening, it is also necessary to install linings that will provide an even horizontal level. The whole process of installing a plastic window sill with your own hands must be constantly monitored by the building level.
The role of the building level in the installation of a PVC window sill
- The final step in solving the question of how to install the window sill correctly is a reliable fastening. As a rule, it is simply glued with help, which is pumped into the space between the window opening and the window sill. Everything is simple here - well shake the balloon with polyurethane sealant heated in warm water, wind a tube on it and, inserting it as deep as possible under the windowsill, blow out the entire space with foam.
How to properly install a window sill with your own hands photo
There is one nuance here - it's not a secret for anyone that the foam, when solidified, greatly increases in volume, and during the expansion process, it creates considerable pressure, which is able to lift the window sill up. To prevent this from happening, you need to put some kind of load on the windowsill, for example, about five or six bricks. But first, in order not to damage the window sill, it is better to cover it with something.
It will be possible to remove the load in 12-14 hours - although the manufacturers indicate that the complete polymerization of the polyurethane sealant occurs within 6 hours, it is better to wait a little longer. Generally speaking, the foam setting time depends on its volume - the more you inflate it under the windowsill, the longer it will freeze.
Installation of a PVC window sill: final work
Well, in conclusion, a couple of practical tips for installing a window sill.
- First, before gluing the window sill, its back surface and the base of the bottom of the window opening must be thoroughly moistened with water. The fact is that the polymerization process of polyurethane foam occurs faster at high humidity. It also adheres better to damp surfaces. You can moisten the space under the windowsill with a spray bottle, which is used to care for flowers or to dampen the laundry when ironing.
- Secondly, do not pump too much foam under the windowsill - this will not be better. The space must not be completely filled - it is better to make gaps between the stripes. So you will save both the sealant and prevent the sill from blowing up.
This is how the PVC window sill is installed with your own hands. Whether it is difficult or easy, judge for yourself, and also decide what to do best for you - call a specialist or try to do everything yourself.
Repair of an apartment or house includes the installation of window sills and slopes on plastic windows. It is known that the window sill, in addition to its aesthetic role, also performs a protective one.
In addition to mechanical stress and the influence of temperature, wooden, stone and plastic window sills are affected by moisture and sunlight.
All these factors predetermine the lifespan of the windows.
Installing or replacing them with your own hands on plastic or wooden windows is a simple process and does not require any professional construction skills.
Preparatory stage
Before making repairs and replacing window sills and slopes, it is worth buying all the necessary tools that are needed to install the window sill under the window.
After all, it is pleasant to work with correctly selected and good materials and tools, as they increase the efficiency and quality of work.
In addition, products and tools will come in handy in the future, given that the repair and replacement of windows will take place more than once, and the installation of plates will be done under each window.
All of them are purchased in specialized stores or window companies.
If the installation of windows will be done by hand, you will need the following tools:
- circular saw or jigsaw;
- level
- roulette;
- polyurethane foam;
- marker;
- puncher.
Installation of a window sill begins, first of all, with measurements. First you need to find out the dimensions of the workpiece.
It should be remembered that the quality of all work depends on how correctly the required dimensions are determined.
The length of the workpiece should be chosen more than necessary, because then it will not be difficult to adjust the dimensions using conventional tools.
The width of the workpiece must be such that the structure does not interfere with the air circulation from the battery upwards.
If this condition is neglected, condensation will appear on the windows, and the flow of cold air will move into the room and it will be necessary to change the windows.
That is why determining the dimensions correctly in advance is a very important stage in the preparatory work.
Trimming the slab under the window
Sometimes a situation arises when you need to correctly fit the window sills to the corresponding window sizes. First, markings should be made on the product using a marker.
Do not forget that the excess is cut from the part that is fixed to the wall.
In this case, the cutting lines should also be noted. They must go 0.5 - 1 centimeter so that the slab is rigidly and tightly joined to the window frame.
If the edges of the products do not retain the stiffeners, the inner sections will lose their desired shape at the joint and bend inward.
Trimming is done by hand using a jigsaw, saw or a special hacksaw, and stone window sills are trimmed with a special diamond disc.
The main thing here is not to forget about accuracy and not to press with great force on the tool in order to prevent scratches or chips from appearing, otherwise you will have to change the workpiece.
Also, do not forget about safety measures: do not allow small particles to get into the eyes and use gloves.
The workpiece is now completely ready for installation in place. The window sill must be washed and proceeded to the next step.
Installing the lining
When the measurements and trimming of the window sill have been carried out, it is necessary to continue the repair and start preparing the linings.
This is important for creating small outward slopes so that water can drain outward.
In this case, the pads should not protrude so that they do not have to be cut off again later.
If there are gaps, they are usually covered with polyurethane foam.
When laying, do not forget to put the slopes of plastic or wooden windows. The lower slopes are cut to the wall, and the installation site is cleared of unnecessary material.
It is assumed that the gap between the window sill and the wall does not exceed 4 millimeters and quite tightly and correctly adjoins the windows.
It is also necessary to install metal strips and insert the ends of these strips into the lower plugs under the windowsills to avoid deformation.
Installation of window sills
Repair involves the installation of window sills and slopes in various ways. The first one is outdated and rarely used.
It means that the window sills are fixed with a special adhesive solution. The fastest way is to do it yourself using self-tapping screws.
First, holes are drilled in the frame, into which these same parts are then screwed.
The joint area is filled with silicone sealant, and the edge of the window sill is brought under the frame, attracting with self-tapping screws.
According to the second method, installation is carried out using aluminum spring brackets screwed in with self-tapping screws.
And the final method, which is the most reliable and involves the use of the necessary materials, is to use special pads that are installed under various window sills.
There are different ways of installing various window sills, before use, the positive and negative sides of each of them are assessed and only after that - you need to choose the most optimal one, because the replacement of windows will depend on this.
The methods differ only in how various window sills, including wooden ones, are placed under the frame.
If the window sill has irregularities, then during installation there may be a gap between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone.
After that, you need to wash everything.
Installation of slopes
Upon completion of the installation of the window sill, it is required to install the same (wooden or plastic) slopes.
To do this, both horizontally and vertically, you need to align the window opening with your own hands.
This process is carried out using polyurethane foam, which protects them from the influence of temperature. Next, the quality of the poured foam is checked.
If there are surpluses, they should be removed, and if deficiencies are found, it is necessary to refill them.
First, you should install the top panel, which stretches along the entire length of the window installation, and only then fix the side panel.
There are different approaches. Installation can be carried out using rack frames, while securing the panel with nails or staples.
It is necessary to do everything as correctly and accurately as possible, while not allowing damage to the window sill, window and its slopes.
The second approach, the simplest and most convenient, is the use of polyurethane foams for installing windows, as well as masking tape.
An important condition for beautifully made slopes is the perfect vertical anchorage of the yards.
For the purpose of leveling, use wooden blocks and use a level to achieve a perfect vertical.
When all the necessary materials are installed, excessive amounts of foam are cut off, outside and inside the room, before washing everything, it is necessary to apply rotband on the foam.
As soon as it hardens, the various external slopes should be painted with water-based paint.
Then it is necessary to remove the protective layer from the slopes, window sill, plastic window, wash off the spots and dirt, and at the end, coat all the cracks with liquid plastic.
At this stage, the repair is completed.
