There is no need to doubt, you will cope with this task perfectly. The most important thing is to correctly make all the calculations of the parameters of the future cabinet, the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will help you with this. And, of course, where without diligence and patience, tune in to a positive result - and you will succeed.
Step-by-step instruction
First, decide how you want your new wardrobe to look like. If you have good artistic skills, try to create an image on paper, even better if it is a drawing of future furniture. To make it easier for you, you can use the example indicated in this article. Here the instructions on how to make the cabinet yourself will be described in detail. The design of the furniture will be such that to create it, you will need a wall niche in your apartment. This option of furniture is very relevant, since the built-in wardrobe is roomy and does not take up extra space in the apartment.
Figure 1. Marking the vertical plane of the front of the cabinet.
The material for the future cabinet should be selected in accordance with the length and depth of your niche, and the height of the ceiling is also taken into account. For this example, laminated particle board is most suitable. In an abbreviated form, this building material is known as chipboard. In order to build a cabinet, you need a material that is approximately 16 mm thick. The construction market offers laminated chipboard of various sizes, in this case the most suitable 600 x 2440. The material of this size is convenient for the manufacture of all elements of the future cabinet.
What does a built-in wardrobe consist of? First of all, these are doors that represent the facade of the furniture, then - a pair of bearing racks, shelves and basement elements. This example will describe the simplest option for assembling a cabinet with a solid facade.
In order to make the cabinet yourself, you will need to go through the following stages of work: evaluate a niche, mark the plane of the facade of the future cabinet, mount vertical racks, make and install a roof, shelves, cornices, plinths and doors.
In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:
- electric planer;
- level;
- screwdriver Set;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- drill;
- grinder or sandpaper for grinding;
- self-tapping screws;
- glue;
- laminated chipboard sheets.
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Niche and its dimensions
In the example shown in this article, the niche size would be 3000 x 600 x 2650 mm. The length is 3 m, the depth is 0.6 m, the ceiling height is 2.65 m. The size of the niche depth was not chosen by chance, when assembling the cabinet, do not forget that the hanger for your clothes should fit into it freely.
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Cabinet facade plane
A very important stage in the assembly of the cabinet is the marking of the vertical plane of the facade, look carefully at fig. 1. The fact is that the installation of all bearing racks in a vertical position is carried out on the basis of this marking.
When dimensioning the front plane, keep in mind that when installing vertical posts, no gaps should form along the walls.
Figure 2. Marking of the most distant point (in the upper right corner).
To avoid this, select the slab that is the most suitable size. In this example, a slab 60 cm wide is shown. In this regard, it is necessary to mark the farthest point on the intended plane. In order for you to understand correctly how to proceed, pay attention to the following fig. 2.
In the example shown, the same point is marked on the right side of the upper corner. To all the remaining points, the vertical posts are sawed and reduced in width at the same time. In order for the vertical racks to be conveniently mounted, you should draw a projection of the plane of the future cabinet in the form of a straight line. To do this, you can use a pencil or chalk. The niche shown in this example is 3 m long. It is very important that the floor in the room is as flat as possible (in order to make sure of this, you should use the level). The next step is to install the racks.
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Vertical racks and their installation
The installation of the uprights starts from the lowest point on your floor. Use the level to find it. In the case of an imperfectly flat floor and with the lowest point, for example, on the left side, the installation of the racks must be started from this point. The cabinet shown in this example will have a separate roof from the ceiling, since the length of the base plate is 2440 mm.
Markings should be applied to the floor along which you have to establish verticals. To simplify the task, use the one shown in fig. 3 by drawing.
Here you can choose one of two ways:
- calculate the step of the racks, while taking into account the width of each door of your future cabinet;
- equal distances between the posts in this case should be set "by eye". Then the doors are sawn to the same width. In the example shown in this text, the cabinet will not have exactly equal spacing between the uprights.
Figure 3. Installation diagram of vertical racks.
The fact is that you have to install the doors using hinges, and they will make it possible to completely cover the edges of the posts with the door. When installing doors on intermediate posts, you will need to use other hinges that will cover only a third of the vertical post. Thus, the distance between the second and third posts you will get more by 8 mm (an example is shown in the previous figure).
According to the example of cabinet assembly given in the text, the next step is to install the upright post from the left edge. The vertical should be placed on the floor; using the leveling method, exclude its protrusion beyond the facade plane. To do this, you should arm yourself with an electric plane and a level. The stand must be aligned on both sides. Next, draw a line on the wall that should correspond to the size of the end of the rack, and then remove the vertical rack for a while. A horizontal line is drawn along the entire length of the niche from the previously drawn line using a level. Thus, you need to adjust each individual cabinet post, focusing on the original height.
The next stage of work will be the installation of ready-made racks. To do this, you need corners (it is better to use chrome plated ones). For any vertical post, at least 5 elements must be used. With a couple of corners, the vertical is screwed to the floor, the rest will be needed for fastening to the wall. For the correct placement of the corners, mark the locations of the future cabinet shelves. The corners should be screwed to the panels using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16. Installation to the wall is carried out with self-tapping screws 3.5 x 16, plastic dowels 6 x 35.
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Cabinet roof fabrication and installation
In the example of this text, the upper part of the structure will be made of two elements. The roof is 800 x 2958 mm and the additional element will be 200 x 2958 mm. Thus, the thickness of the visor will increase. The structure of the roof of the cabinet shown in fig. 4, as you can see, has an arched visor. Its radius is 12.7 m.
Figure 4. Cabinet roof structure.
In order to cut the arc, you need a jigsaw; all uneven areas of the surface should be carefully sanded. The roof of the cabinet is almost finished, then you should use it as a template in order to make the cover. With the help of PVC edges, the edges of the main element and the additional overlay are glued.
The radial edges of the parts should also be glued. To do this, you need a PVC edge and glue (you can use liquid nails glue). The adhesive should be applied in a strip of about 1 m. The next step is to glue the edge to the end of the panel. In this way, glue the rest. Using a piece of cotton fabric, the edge is neatly smoothed over the board. Then, using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 35, you need to pull off the cabinet roof and the additional panel.
After you have completely prepared the roof for installation, proceed with installing it to the uprights. To attach the roof to each pillar, you need two corners.In this case, the distance between the edge of the corner and the front edge should not be less than 16 mm.
The question of how to make a wardrobe with your own hands sooner or later arises for every person who wants to save money on new furniture. Not everyone has the opportunity to purchase a wardrobe in a store, because such a purchase can be very expensive. There is another obstacle - to choose an item for a summer residence, at home, which can be especially problematic due to the lack of the required model. Therefore, self-production is a great alternative to expensive store furniture and additional savings for the family budget.
What do you need?
Many people think that making furniture is an incredibly difficult and overwhelming task, and before starting work, you should at least read the book How to make a wardrobe with your own hands. But this is not the case. In fact, the production of a comfortable, spacious and beautiful piece of furniture can be divided into the appropriate stages: preparation of the necessary tools and materials, production of individual parts, assembly, installation.
First of all, you need to decide what the cabinet is for and where it will stand. After all, the furniture will serve for many years, so the issue must be taken seriously. Often, wardrobes are arranged along the entire length of a blank wall, in the opening of an interior partition. As for cabinet furniture, it can be used to divide a one-room apartment into zones, this view will look good in a Khrushchev building.
Next, you need to calculate the dimensions of the cabinet. It should mean not only the width and height, but also the distance between the shelves, their number. For clarity, you need to transfer your idea to A4 sheet. It will also help to determine the material for the product: wood, lining, MDF, fiberboard. Often the frame is made of timber and the doors are ordered separately. Self-made is a good alternative for home, summer cottages. The design of the cabinet can be adapted for small apartments, it will look good in a Khrushchev building.
It is important to decide on the color of the product. There are many colors: "Beech", "Oak", "Alder", "Walnut". You can also always order the desired chipboard by choosing a color from the catalog.
Cabinet drawing
Depending on where the closet will be located - in the house, in the country, in the Khrushchev, it is necessary to draw up the corresponding drawings, break the product into its component parts, of which it consists. If the drawing school had a good mark, you can do everything yourself on a piece of paper. Also, drawings are created in special computer programs that can be found on the Internet.
Before you start drawing, it is important to take into account the external dimensions of the cabinet, the dimensions of the room. You should pay attention to the plinth, baguettes, switch, window sills, heating and take into account the distance from them.
- Skirting board in the room. If the cabinet is designed from wall to wall, then the plinth will not allow the furniture to be tightly moved. In this case, you need to bevel the vertical edges of the cabinet, or dismantle the skirting board itself.
- Chipboard thickness. The thickness of the material is calculated taking into account what will be stored in the cabinet and its dimensions. If there are no long shelves for books - from 16 mm. When drawing, you can count on this thickness. For cabinet furniture, you need to choose a high-quality material, more expensive.
When creating drawings, diagrams of a cabinet for the ceiling, one must not forget that it is assembled in a lying position, and then it will need to be lifted and placed. Then its diagonal should be 3-5 cm shorter than the ceiling height. Otherwise, the ceiling could be hit when lifting the cabinet.
Manufacturing
After the drawings are ready, you can start making the necessary parts. Sawing boards is a rather difficult task, and it is better not to test yourself, but to order this work from professionals. As a rule, such a service is provided at the place of purchase of chipboard sheets. The difficulty lies in the fact that a machine for sawing chipboard is quite an expensive pleasure, and it makes no sense to purchase it for one cabinet. Many people prefer to cut themselves with a jigsaw, but this results in chips, so it's better not to risk it.
It is necessary to decide in advance on the door opening system: to the sides, up, down, move like in a compartment. Taking into account the number of shelves, boxes, doors, you can calculate the required number of Euro screws, rivets for them, guides for boxes, holders.
Separately, it must be said about drills. They should only be in wood, which will allow you to make an accurate hole yourself without using additional forces. Their characteristic difference is the presence of a blade in the center and a flat profile (and not a cone, as in other types). Before assembling, it is important to practice drilling on unnecessary trimmings that remain after sawing the chipboard.
To avoid errors in measurements, you need to use high-precision instruments. You should avoid tape measures, and give preference to a metal meter and half-meter ruler, which can be purchased at every stationery store. But beware of Chinese-made plastic counterparts, they often have errors that can be a serious drawback when assembling a product.
Felt pads will help to facilitate further movement of the cabinet. They should be glued to the places where the item stands.
Making a wardrobe
Let's consider how to make a wardrobe yourself, using the example of furniture with swing doors. It is believed that this type of assembly is quite simple compared to a coupe, because there is no need to assemble the doors and frame separately. The design has many variations, which gives room for imagination and allows you to choose the model that will suit all requirements. The cabinet can be filled with shelves, drawers, hanger bar. This model will be convenient both at home and in the country.
The dimensions of the swing cabinet are also individual, which allows it to fit into any layout of the apartment, including the Khrushchev. Consider the drawings, diagrams using the following dimensions as an example: 2200x600x1500 mm.
Details of the piece of furniture:
- Sheets for sidewalls: 2184x575 - 2 pcs.
- Bottom: 1468x575 - 1 pc.
- Cover: 1500x600 - 1 pc.
- Shelves: 976х575 - 2 pcs.
- Shelves: 476х575 - 5 pcs.
- Wall: 268x500 - 2 pcs.
- Facades: 2081х497 - 3 pcs.
- Tsarga: 100x1468 - 1 pc.
- Drawer guides: 100x500 - 4 pcs.
- Int. box - 100x386 - 4 pcs.
- Bottom for boxes: 497х415 - 2 pcs. Fiberboard.
- Partition: 2068x575 - 1 pc.
- Wall: 2081х1497 - 1 pc. Fiberboard.
- Slats: 976x50 - 1pc., 476x50 - 1.
In order to make a cabinet on your own, you will need: chipboard, fiberboard, edge, confirmations, screws, handles, legs, guides, bar.
The cabinet has large dimensions, therefore, the load on the bottom increases. It is recommended to attach kitchen legs to the bottom, which have a number of significant advantages:
- Good price.
- Possibility of regulation. This point is important because not everyone has perfect floors at home. It is especially important when installing furniture in the country, in Khrushchev. Thanks to the legs, you can always adjust the desired height and level the cabinet.
- Load distribution.
When assembling boxes, it is advisable to install mortise handles. If it is planned to put ordinary ones, then the boxes need to be moved inside the furniture, otherwise they will interfere with the facade, the cabinet will have open doors. Therefore, in order not to have to redo the finished product, you should take care of the choice of accessories in advance.
Wooden furniture
A homemade solid wood wardrobe is an expensive pleasure and a luxury item in the home. When choosing a material, the following rules should be followed:
- The wood must be free of knots.
- There should be no interlayers in the wood mass.
- The annual rings should be close to each other.
To make furniture out of wood, 2 types of shields are made from it:
- Solid - from one piece of wood.
- Glued is when thin boards are glued on top of each other and then pressed. It is believed that the second type of massif is stronger. It does not change its shape, even if subjected to stress.
Types of wood:
- Hard: maple, oak, elm, beech, mountain ash, walnut, ash, apple, elm and sycamore. Frames of products, serious structures that will be subjected to loads are made from it.
- Soft: pine, cherry, willow, alder, cedar, spruce, juniper, poplar, aspen, chestnut and fir. Suitable for decorative elements, facades.
Most often, cabinets are made from solid oak. It has several advantages:
- Easy to handle.
- Insects don't like him.
- Does not rot.
- Long lasting.
- Does not react to moisture.
Another suitable material is beech. In terms of strength, it is not inferior to oak, so you can safely make furniture from it. But beech has a drawback - it easily absorbs moisture, which is not a good sign. But if the wardrobe will stand in a bedroom or another room with a favorable climate, you can safely choose an array as a material for a future product.
The manufacture of a cabinet from solid wood is carried out in the same way as from other materials, which allows the use of similar drawings. But it is not recommended to equip the whole house with them. The material is expensive and very moody. It should be remembered that solid wood products do not like changes in temperature and humidity. Otherwise, they bloat. Taking into account that many houses, apartments, summer cottages are equipped with a floor heating system, air conditioners, it will not be easy to create comfortable conditions for furniture.
At the same time, the array makes the dwelling truly royal and chic. Therefore, before use, it is important to treat the wood with special compounds in order to reduce its susceptibility to the environment.
Making a cabinet for yourself is not as laborious a process as it might seem at first glance. By clearly following the instructions and tips, you can independently assemble any cabinet or built-in piece of furniture.
Sliding wardrobes are popular regardless of the size of the apartment and the income of the owners. Attracted by the convenience of their use, the ability to adapt to the conditions of the room. It is quite possible to make them yourself if you know the design features, calculations and installation.
Types of sliding wardrobes - what material, where to install
It is easier to make a rectangular sliding wardrobe with your own hands, radius with a curved surface is within the power of professionals. The niche is the most convenient place for installation. The attractiveness of this location is that an inconvenient place becomes useful, practically without affecting the living space.
Installation in the opening between rooms saves costs on the partition and its decoration, and the built-in wardrobe separates the rooms. The compartment can be installed in the corridor near the wall, which is especially beneficial for small apartments: it does not take up much space, which is not enough.
Sliding wardrobes are also used for zoning rooms. They do not have a back, they have two front sides, access to the wardrobe from both sides. A small room should not be overloaded with furniture, they use a standard one. A spacious wardrobe can be installed in a large hallway. If space permits, then you can easily realize the dream of every woman - the wardrobe turns into a dressing room. Costs increase with size. Below is a diagram of a large wardrobe for the hallway.
Many materials are suitable for a compartment, among them are laminate, wall paneling, MDF. Only in this case it will be necessary to make frames for the door leaf made of wood. They use chipboard, which is convenient for installation due to its large size. The use of drywall is possible, but the material is fragile, does not withstand heavy loads, and sags noticeably without reliable fastening. A simple option is to use an old wardrobe with the replacement of swing doors with sliding doors.
Room measurements - how to avoid installation difficulties
Making furniture requires right angles, and room walls with such precision are rare. Deviations from rectangular shape can be centimeters, but even a few millimeters can cause installation difficulties. This is especially true of niches, where builders very rarely maintain a right angle.
We take measurements at several points and record the results. We retreat 20 cm from the back wall and mark the measurement points on the parallel walls. We count the height from the floor: the first points are at a distance of 0.8 m, the second - 1.4 m and the third - 2.2 m. Further, we retreat from the first measurements by 30 cm and take another one at the same height. Deviations will have to be corrected with plaster. The walls in a niche can be primed with water emulsion, and then painted with acrylic enamel and for many years to forget about the dust on the surface.
We check the horizontalness of the floor and ceiling with a level, and problems may arise with the rectangularity of the opening. You can't measure it yourself with a lace, and the accuracy is too low. We use a simple device of two rails with pointed ends. We fasten them in the middle with rubber rings, insert them diagonally into the opening, at the point of convergence we make a continuous mark on the surface of both rails with a pencil. We check another angle and look at the marks: the discrepancy in the thickness of the lines is 0.3–0.4 mm.
Dimensioning - impact on cabinet design
Before installing the cabinet in a niche, we determine its width, which is understood by furniture makers as length. It should not be made as close as possible, it is better to deviate from the minimum niche length of 6 cm, then the cabinet is guaranteed to enter the opening. If the structure is located autonomously against the wall, we reduce the tolerance.
When determining the length, we also take into account the dimensions of the material, which you need to know in advance. When using chipboard, we mean that the size of the board is 1830 mm × 2750 mm. Plasterboard 2.5 or 3.0 m long, 1 m wide. We try to keep the width of the cabinet equal to the width of the slab or less. Then there will be no installation difficulties. As for the lining and MDF, we try to ensure that the length of the cabinet is a multiple of the width of the strips.
Sometimes it is required to make furniture that is wider than standard sheet material. The easiest way is to build up the missing length with a segment. At the joints of the bottom and floor we get a weak point, which can deform under loads. To avoid this, we put supports at the joints. You can make two cabinets, and then connect them into a single whole. The only drawback is the waste of materials on the extra wall.
When calculating the depth, we take into account the usable space used for storing things, then add 100 mm to it for the sliding system. We choose the height of the cabinet 10 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, excluding the height of the roof. This will allow you to collect a massive product in a horizontal position, then raise it without touching the ceiling.
A rigid frame and a solid base are a condition for the stability of the furniture
With insufficient frame rigidity, the cabinets sway, and the main reason for this is the lack of stiffeners. The fiberboard sheet for the back walls cannot provide it. We add transverse screeds made of chipboard 25 cm wide in each section at different levels, fasten with confirmations. This arrangement will provide maximum rigidity.
For a drywall cabinet frame, only a metal profile with purchased fasteners is allowed.
Incorrect positioning and insufficient number of supports will deform the bottom under load. To avoid this, we install the supports every 30–40 mm from each bulkhead. The sliding wardrobe can be installed on through supports 25 mm high with the possibility of adjustment through the holes in the bottom. The only inconvenience is the gap between the bottom and the floor, which will be a waste bin. The second option is to use kitchen legs 100 mm high.
Filling - installation of shelves, drawers and clothes rail
If the shelves are located in separate sections at different levels, there are no problems: the use of confirmations will do. Where it is impossible to screw them in, corner furniture ties are installed. When alignment is required, a "helicopter" can be used to mount with confirmations. In the middle of one of the shelves we screw in the confirmation, we turn it along the axis. We turn two confirmations into the shelf opposite, return it to its place. On opposite sides, we also fasten each shelf with two confirmations.
When calculating the installation of drawers, do not forget about the height of the lower rail so that the drawer does not rest against it.
To store clothes on hangers in the closet, we install the bar in a longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The classic longitudinal bar requires a minimum depth of 60 cm. The transverse version uses an extendable bar. It is fastened with four screws, which is unreliable. Instead of a lift rod, it is better to install a regular one. We fasten two longitudinal chipboard boards vertically to the upper shelf, and attach a shortened bar to them in the usual way.
Calculation of the width of the doors - the principle "not to interfere"
When the door is moved to the side, it should fully open access to the section and not interfere with the drawer being pulled out or the pantograph lift down. Consider an example with a 3-section compartment 2100 mm wide:
- 1. We measure the width of the inner opening. In our example, using chipboard, it will be 2068 mm.
- 2. Subtract the double width of the buffer tape glued to the outer doors of the cabinet. The thickness of each is 6 mm, so in total we get 2068 minus 12 - 2056 mm.
- 3. We take into account the overlap of the doors, which in a three-section cabinet is 26 mm on both sides, which is 52 mm in total. The total width of all doors is equal to: 2056 mm plus 52 mm, it comes out 2108 mm. We divide the total width by three, and it comes out 703 mm.
This simple calculation will provide free access to the sections.
Door suspension - features of different systems
There are suspension systems with two guides and with a monorail. The system based on the bottom rail is the most widespread. The top rail only serves to support the doors. The system does not jam, touching the doors is excluded. It is simple to mount: we insert the top into the groove, raise it, put the bottom in place.
The system based on the top rail is simple, the hardware is cheap, and the installation is simple. Sash movement is quiet and smooth. It has significant drawbacks, therefore it is little used. If you press the door carelessly, the rollers may exit the grooves, the door goes inside the cabinet. The upper rail is not very rigid; a perfectly flat ceiling and reliable fastening are required.
In a monorail system, each door runs on paired rollers on separate rails. They keep the doors from wobbling to a certain extent, the lower guide is not used. The gimbal is precise, rigid, well adjustable. But they install the monorail mainly in the bedroom, where only adults will use the cabinet, since handling such a system requires accuracy.
Door Structures - Step by Step Assembly Guide
- 1. Calculate the length of the profiles and cut them. The height of the flaps depends on the clearances required for normal operation, they are indicated in the instructions for the suspension elements.
- 2. We drill holes for fixing the vertical handle profile: outer 10 mm, inner 5.5 mm. We drill 5.5 mm holes in the inner and outer walls, then we drill holes in the outer walls up to 10 mm. Fasteners and adjustments freely pass through the outer hole and attach to the inner one.
- 3. Install the profiles on the filler: first horizontal, then vertical. It happens that the profile is tight, then we use a rubber mallet, with which we apply neat blows, but not directly along the profile, but through a piece of wood.
- 4. We connect the profiles. In the upper part we screw a self-tapping screw into the profile, but not completely, so that there is room left, install the roller and tighten the self-tapping screw. From below we tighten the profiles, insert the lower rollers into the horizontal profile, screw the adjusting screw through the hole of the vertical profile.
- 5. Install the top guide. There are no nuances here, the only thing that should be observed is the absence of gaps with the side walls.
- 6. Before installing the lower rail, place it from below, install the stoppers, and hang one leaf. Move the bottom rail 20 mm into the cabinet and screw it on. Built-in wardrobes diagrams and drawings
The most popular coupe designs are built-in and stand-alone. Collect them from ready-made kits or order cutting according to their own sizes. To facilitate calculations, we offer universal drawings of sliding wardrobes. You just have to take them as a basis and adjust to the required size.
A sliding wardrobe is a very popular type of wardrobes, because it is not only roomy, but also takes up quite a bit of space. This piece of furniture is quite functional.
In this article we will tell you how to make a wardrobe with your own hands.
What is a coupe
The concept of a coupe first appeared in France in the age of horse-drawn carriages. At that time, the city streets, where common people lived, were so narrow that it was not always possible to open the carriage door. This led to the appearance of sliding-door carriages in the 17th century.
It is believed that the first carriage-compartment was invented by the French coachman Jeanto. Whether this is really so is unknown.
The crew of the compartment was referred to as flirtatious and frivolous concepts, because this type of transport was usually used for secret meetings with ladies. Some experts in the field of linguistics believe that the coupe came from the word "couple", which in French means fornication.
With the passage of time, compartment doors began to be used for train carriages. As for the furniture industry, any wardrobe with sliding doors is called a wardrobe.
Types of wardrobe
- Sliding wardrobes can be:
- Radial;
- Built-in;
- Case;
- Straight;
- Corner.
Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe technology
Instructions on how to make a wardrobe with your own hands:
- Choosing a material;
- We determine the degree, nature and technology of how the filling of the cabinet will be placed;
- We design doors, choose a suspension option;
- Choosing a technology for mounting shelves;
- Preparing a niche;
- We make the necessary measurements and drawings;
- We purchase the necessary materials and accessories;
- We cut out the required blanks;
- We assemble a wardrobe and install internal lamps, if necessary.
What is the wardrobe made of
Before you start designing a wardrobe, you need to decide on the material, because it directly depends on what technology this piece of furniture will be manufactured using.
From wood and lining
Wood is a classic material for making furniture. Today, it is very prestigious to have headsets made of natural wood. But for a wardrobe, this is not the best choice, since due to higher humidity, the tree can begin to deform.
If you still want to make the cabinet wooden, then choose straight-grained wood that does not have streaks, knots and cracks. It must be treated with special compounds.
The lining can be made of plastic or MDF. You do not need to prepare it in advance. But the frame of the cabinet doors will still have to be made of wood.
Drywall
It is possible to make a cabinet from gypsum plasterboard, but it is rather difficult. In fact, it will be a building structure, not a piece of furniture.
Laminate, MDF, fiberboard
These are the optimal materials for making this type of furniture. Of these, a wardrobe at home can be made easily and simply. They have all the advantages of wood and do not have its disadvantages.
Just one caveat, it is desirable to choose a fiberboard density above average.
What is filling made of
The filling depends on how the cabinet space will be distributed, where the shelves and drawers will be located. Experts advise you to follow the following guidelines:
- Wet to the side;
- The necessary little things - at the level of the gaze;
- Dry - on top;
- The most expensive thing is to distribute in boxes.
The goal of filling planning is to achieve the smallest shelf width that is required when calculating doors. The distribution of the inner space of the cabinet must be approached responsibly.
The filling of the cabinet significantly affects how comfortable and convenient it will be and how many years it will last.
Sliding wardrobe doors
Doors are the most difficult and most demanding part of the cabinet. It is necessary to determine how many shutters are required and what width, with the suspension structure and stoppers.
Note!
The fewer doors in the closet, the more convenient it is to use them. But this also increases the risk of skewing and stalling. The maximum width that is allowed for the shutters is 60-70 cm.
In addition, the doors should not be wider than the narrowest shelf, otherwise, it will be impossible to get to it. It is also desirable that the flaps overlap by at least 5-7 cm.
It is not necessary to buy such a necessary thing as a wardrobe, you can do it yourself. It is easy to find drawings of a wide variety of wardrobes on the Internet. A self-made wardrobe will be your pride.
Diy wardrobe photo
Note!
Note!
The wardrobe plays an important role in any interior. It is not surprising that strict requirements are imposed on it: not to take up too much space, be roomy, have a sufficient number of shelves and drawers. The models presented on the market do not always fully satisfy individual wishes.
It can be even more difficult for owners of apartments with non-standard layouts to choose an option that fits into the room. In this case, you can order a cabinet from specialists who will take into account all the wishes for the design and internal filling.
Unfortunately, this option is not affordable for everyone. Then the best solution to the problem will be to use your own hands and ingenuity, because it is not difficult to assemble the cabinet yourself!
Preparatory stage
For each room, its own type of construction is suitable, so it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main ones.
Closed front wardrobe - straight model with hinged doors. To open them, you need to provide additional space, do not forget about this if you are making a wardrobe for the hallway.
The cabinet with an open front has no doors, and its contents are visible. He makes certain requirements for order.
The doors of the sliding wardrobe are installed on a rail mechanism and open, moving apart. There are designs with top and bottom rails, which one to choose is a matter of taste.
Ideal design for a built-in wardrobe
The corner cabinet fills the corner. Suitable for a room of any size, if it is square or close to it.
Having chosen a suitable design, you can start creating a project for the future cabinet. Since this piece of furniture serves for more than one year, it is worth considering what functionality may be required from it. It is better to build a drawing on a Whatman paper, entering all the measurements there.
Decide on the location and dimensions of the cabinet. If a niche is provided in the room, it is ideal, but if it is not possible to build it in, choose a place where neither he nor him will interfere with anything.
Think over the internal content: the location and number of shelves and drawers, their sizes, additional elements such as mezzanines or interior lighting.
Don't forget about the choice of exterior finishes, decorations. The colors "oak", "alder", "beech" are the most popular today. Or you can choose wood with an interesting pattern and leave your own pattern. Get down to business creatively, decorate the doors with a carved pattern.
Materials
The material can be natural wood, plywood, MDF or chipboard - all of which are used by furniture manufacturers.
The tree is environmentally friendly, does not require additional decorations, and is easy to use. A wooden cabinet will last more than one year and will look solid and impressive. An ideal choice for classic interiors.
Plywood is made of glued veneer sheets (birch or coniferous trees are used). This cheap, practical material is suitable for making almost any furniture. It is best to choose film faced plywood (FOF brand).
Chipboard (particle board) is the cheapest and most common option. When assembling your own closet, they usually use it. Short-lived.
Self-adhesive melamine film is also useful for treating the side edges.
The rod diameter must be at least 22 mm. The easiest way is to buy it in a specialized store. Pens are also available there.
Tools
- Ruler, tape measure, pencil and others for taking measurements and building a drawing.
- Level.
- Jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting.
- Screwdriver or drill and screwdriver.
- Glue.
- Ratchet wrench.
- Iron for gluing the edging film.
- Fittings. Each door opening mechanism has its own set.
- Confirmates for a chipboard cabinet are best bought with a length of 7 cm with a diameter of 0.5 cm.
Working process
First of all, measurements are taken and a drawing of the future cabinet is built. The final result depends on a correctly drawn up drawing, so approach it with all seriousness.
It is not difficult to make doors for the cabinet with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions. If its vertical height is less than the height of the opening, the door will not completely close it, and if it is greater, it will not fit. Finding the horizontal dimension, you must not forget about the fasteners: they will add a few millimeters to it. The width of the doors should be ~ 3 mm less than the opening.
Now you need to mark the placement of the fastening bolts on the cut parts and drill all the holes.
The assembly begins with installing the bottom and attaching the walls to it. Make sure that the assembled cabinet fits into the allotted space and that other furniture will not interfere with the opening of the doors. If you are making a wardrobe, guides are installed at this stage.
The location of drawers and shelves is outlined, shelf supports and guides are installed. They must be strictly parallel to avoid skewing.
Now is the time to complete the installation of the upper shelves and roof. A gap of ~ 7 cm is left between the ceiling and the roof for mounting confirmations. Fasteners are made by hand, finally tightened with a ratchet wrench.
The side shelves are mounted on 4 confirmations (two on each side), in some cases dowels (small wooden cylinders) are used. One end of the dowel is inserted into the wall of the cabinet, and a shelf is put on the other.
The last step is to assemble the doors. Attach the handles with a bend outward before installation. For sliding doors, the correct installation of the mechanism is especially important. Take your time, proceed carefully.
It's time to start the final touches. Process the sections with decorative foil, decorate the facade. Add mirrors, interior lighting and other items.
Tricks and nuances
Build on existing cabinet layouts when designing your own.
A corner cabinet requires more care in design and assembly than a straight one, so it can be too complicated for an inexperienced person.
If you do not have enough experience, it is better to entrust the cutting of parts to a master. His hand will not tremble, and the cuts will turn out to be even and neat.
Consider the thickness of the saw to avoid getting a part smaller than necessary. The wall thickness must be at least 18 mm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure will be insufficient.
As you work on your drawing, pay attention to the curvature of the floor. If the floor is not leveled, gaps may appear between the doors. To avoid this, adjust the installation sheds for the swing mechanism, and change the height of the wheels for the sliding mechanism.
Sliding door rails must be parallel. Be very careful when marking and installing guides for drawers and shelves.
Drill holes for confirmations symmetrically. Use a drill of the correct size. The exact number of confirmations depends on the number of parts. Confirmates are covered with plugs to match the color of the design.
The installation of the mirror begins with the installation of the seal around the perimeter. The film is glued to the chipboard cuts with an iron. Iron it with a rag, pressing as tightly as possible. The edges can be cut with a regular knife.
Examine photos of hand-made cabinets: you will get a charge of inspiration and note interesting ideas for yourself.
We hope our tips have helped answer the question of how to make a wardrobe with your own hands.
DIY cabinets photo
