Moknet angle in a block house what to do. Why sweat and wet the walls in the house and how to fix it

The problem of damp angles and walls often worries and residents of high-rise buildings, and owners of private houses. Due to the fact that the angle of the room was dumbbed, the walls are beginning to darken, the wallpaper is spoiled, the mold appears, the air becomes heavy in the room. Plus, in the cold season, the temperatures are reduced in the rooms, the windows are opening less often to ventilate the room, many precipitation falls, and the walls themselves are not dried by sunlight.

Raw corners and walls are a rather serious problem that should be immediately eliminated. The dampness indoors can cause different diseases, as well as become a place for collecting fungi and ticks.

Therefore, the question of why rawrite corners in the house worries many.

Sources of dampness in the corners of the rooms are apparent and hidden. Some are easy to detect, others will have to search. However, all the reasons why corners in the house are constantly cheese, are divided into two subcategories - internal (poor ventilation, insufficient heated) and external (increased thermal conductivity of the wall, water penetration from outside, etc.).

Often in the corners of the room there are dampness in such cases:

• the walls occurs (water can fall through cracks in the wall of the attic, drainage pipes or cornice overlap);
• the wall freezes (the angles "cry" from the fact that the "cold" bridge formed due to the increased thermal conductivity of the walls);
• the heated indoor is insufficient;
• there is no ventilation or it is ineffective;
• fungus formed on the walls;
• poorly waterproof the foundation of the house;
• there is a lot of washing and drying in the house;
• in the kitchen and bathroom there are no hoods;
• emptiness formed in seams not filled with a solution;
• external walls are too thin;
• formed voids in overlap plates;
• cooling through metal bolk or reinforced concrete structures;
• in the basements too much water and moisture;
• poorly embedded in the wall balcony plates;
• condensate appears on ventilation pipes due to improper vaporizolation.

Eliminate dampness in the corners

Attentive owners always will notice the calved corners in time and establish the reason for the appearance of sputum.

After detecting the culprit, the problem can be used to be eliminated:

• When freezing the wall, you need to take action on its insulation. The most effective is it will not only reduce dampness, but will reduce heat losses. Do it either by minvata or foamflast. However, the owners of apartments in high-rise buildings are such insulation - the case is quite troublesome. If there are problems with outer insulation, you can premises.

When applying insulation, insutia should produce thermal calculations to avoid the appearance of condensate and moisturizing the insulation material, as a result of which its insulation is being lost.

• Climate, degree of thermal conductivity of the wall, etc., is taken to make the right calculations, the climate, the degree of thermal conductivity of the wall, etc., therefore, in such cases, specialist advice is simply necessary.
• With an inefficient heating system, additional sources of thermal energy should be activated. It may be an electric fireplace, a radiator or other, which is recommended to be installed in those places where most dampness.
• When condensate appears due to excessive sealant of the room after installing plastic windows, the room is often followed.
• With an insufficient thickness of the walls, it is recommended to uninstall the building outside the front of the brick outside or apply the insulation under the plaster. It is possible to a slab insulation (, minvat) supplied to the frame as a sacrifices of 5 cm for filling in it clamzit. This building material absorbs moisture with a removal wall and stops the spread of mold.
• You can improve the ventilation to install an additional exhaust, and even at the bottom of the door when entering a separate room, you can make a slot for air regulation. Improve ventilation should also be in and kitchens, which are most often sources of dampness.
• If there is moisture under the housing, it can penetrate the microcracks in the floor, as a result of which the walls are cheese. To eliminate such a problem, the floor is treated with an anti-game agent, fill on it a moisture-resistant base, and all the cracks close up with a sealant.
• If the cause of raw corners has become the fungus and mold on the plaster, then all the affected places are treated with antifungal solutions, shuffled with high-quality mixture, and only after that we can glue.
• With poor quality moisture, the moisture penetrates into the seams, so the joints between the stove and the wall should be embedded so that there are no leaks leading to the occurrence of raw spids.
• When the joints of the seams in the external walls should be taken to ensure that closed and open joints ensure the air-setting, and the second, besides, well protected from moisture.

Raw corners on the upper floors of the building

In private houses or on the highest floors, the walls often refrease because of the attic.

This happens in such cases:

• the angles are gray due to violations in the insulation of the attic room, dampness and black spots appear most in places where the church of the attic adjoins the external walls;
• space The attic is badly ventilated (few ventilation holes, there is no pass-through ventilation), with well-performed ventilation in the attic, the same temperature is maintained throughout the surface of the roof in the autumn-winter time.

We warn the appearance of dampness

Minimize dampness and prevent its appearance will continue to comply with some rules.

• The underwear should be dried outside the residential rooms or with the hood turned on for the air vent.
• When cooking, saucepans and frying pans should be covered with covers so that pairs do not proceed.
• In the bathroom, where the highest concentration of humidity, as well as in the kitchen, should regularly clean the exhaust and ventilation holes from excessive clogs, and even these rooms need to be used daily.
• In a private house, you can isolate the attic, as well as to cover the walls with waterproofing material, preferably with pores.
• All flammable substances that form a lot of moisture, in particular, paraffin, to use extremely rare in the premises.
• All rooms in the house can be tired daily.
• Errors in the heating system are eliminated on time.
• To reduce humidity, use air dryer. This household appliance can easily cope with the problem of dampness, and its compactness will allow to carry the dryer from the room to the room.

Reduce humidity

If the walls often wet the walls in interior with high moisture (bath, bathroom), then the case is most likely in the ventilation system. Therefore, first of all, the ventilation openings should be checked for excess objects that can interfere with air circulation.

How clogged ventilation channels check simply: bring a burning candle to the outlet and see how the flame reacts: if it stretches to the lattice, then the channels are not clogged and there is a traction. When there is no reaction to the ventilation flame, you need to install additional devices in order to adjust air circulation.

When the holes are not clogged, and the thrust is still weak, then the door can be made additional slots for air intake. If it did not help in the ventilation channel, the forced extract is mounted. Such fans include only in the absence of people in the room, as they can harm health.

Experts advise in the bathroom to install fans with a mounted humidity controller. With increasing moisture, the fan works automatically, eliminating air oversaturated with damp.

Some stool sealing nuances

In case of violation of the sealing of the seams and, when the cracks appear in the walls, the corners indoors begin to be cooled. With this position, the output is one: the waterproofing of the joints between the panels should be repaired, and the microcracks close up in the walls.

After high-quality sealing, the walls should not recruit moisture. They can only flow only when the seamclosure technology is broken.

The main errors are the application of the sealant without pre-repairing or the use of a low-quality hermetic substance.

This should be taken into account: if the waterproofing of the joints to produce in the same apartment, and not in the whole house, the problem of dampness will not disappear. Moisture will penetrate the poorly sealed seams in the apartment floor above or on the technical floor, so although slower, it will find a way to the right room.

Waterproofing foundation

It happens that the dampness in the house is caused by the fact that the foundation is poorly isolated. With its insufficient waterproofing, underground water when lifting over 1.5 m, can penetrate into the walls. In this case, they will get wet, mold will appear under the plinth and in the corners, the plaster will begin to collave, and the wallpaper will ruin. However, if the foundation is competent, it will be able to prevent the penetration of groundwater.

Condensate after installing new windows

It happens that the foci of dampness in the corners of the apartments appear after replacing ordinary windows on plastic. The installed windows are very sealed, they closed the openings tightly, as a result of which the ventilability of the room is worse. Avoid changing the walls in such cases, you can know if you know what to do.

For the exchange of air indoors, it is often enough to carry out. However, if this is not enough, you can improve the ventilation by putting an additional fan on the sandwich. Then the humidity in the room will decrease, and there will be no condensation of moisture on the cold walls, in particular in the corners, where the air exchange is reduced.

The problem of raw corners is more likely to worry in the cold season. Many at first do not even notice the removal walls, however, when the moisture turns into a mold, the problem should be taken seriously. Funny fungi, mites and multicotions are breeding from constant in the room, and various diseases can manifest themselves to residents, shortness of breath, cough, as well as allergic reactions.

Video: How to get rid of dampness in a house or apartment

The fight against the abrasiveness of moisture in the residential premises should be started immediately. This process is quite time-consuming, sometimes requires cash costs. However, with the exact definition of the root causes of increasing humidity and the right choice of effective ways to combat dampness, you can forget about wet corners forever. And if necessary, the new repairs in the apartment will refresh the wall and please all.

Brick is a wonderful material that is ideal for the construction of various objects - garages, administrative buildings and, of course, private and apartment buildings. But sometimes after settling, the tenants begin to notice that the walls of the brick house will mock. A black mold appears on the surface of the walls, the wallpaper peeled, recks the plaster.

Mold is pretty unpleasant gray microorganisms that appear quite unexpectedly and it is very difficult to raise them, but perhaps.

Causes of the appearance of dampness

The reasons for recycling walls in the house of bricks can be the following factors:

1. If the apartment is an angular, the probability of the appearance of dampness increases significantly, since unprotected walls will be exposed to a constant change of temperature and cooling.
2. Increased humidity. In a brick house, dampness most likely goes out of the basement.
3. If the wall is poorly insulated or its insufficient waterproofing is made.

In any case, to no longer wet, it is necessary to carry out the insulation of the wall, as well as increase its waterproofing.

This is a much simpler and minor cost of a way than buying a new, not angular, apartment.

The fight against dampness in the basement may not always be crowned with success, especially in old houses from a long time who has long been tagged with sewage.

Tools that will need: level, hammer, roulette, pliers, knife and others.

To prevent this problem, different types of devices are used. This requires various tools. Depending on the way it is:

• roulette;
• level;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw;
• stapler and brackets;
• construction thread or twine;
• trowel;
• spatulas;
• other.

Heat insulation materials

Choosing thermal insulation materials in abundance presented in construction markets and in stores, you need to pay special attention to the characteristics specified by the manufacturer.

Some materials are intended for thermal insulation works from the outside of the house, others - for the insulation of walls from the inside. The inhabitants of the private house are better to insulate the wall from the outside, it will bring the greatest effect.

In an apartment building, it is not possible to insulate the walls outside, so you need to restrict ourselves to the internal processing of the wall. With proper execution of works from quality materials, such a processing will give the desired result.

• you need to pay close attention to the water absorption coefficient. He directly depends on the ability of heat-insulating material to absorb moisture. The smaller the value of this indicator, the better its water-repellent properties, which is very important in the situation when the wall will mock;
• the thickness of the material layer that will be used as a heater varies depending on the degree of material density and thermal conductivity coefficient;
• heat insulation with a small thermal conductivity coefficient will take the smallest space.

Sound insulation properties of materials should be interested in those who suffer from too noisy neighbors or loud sounds in the courtyard at home. If the thermal insulation material has a high noise absorption coefficient, it is possible to save consideration and time, and money without conducting additional repair to install sound insulation.

The class of flammability material is also important. The material is most safe with the class G1, since this thermal insulation will not burn without open fire.

Several most popular thermal insulation materials can be distinguished:

1. The most common insulation in connection with its value is mineral wool. However, if the wall is wet, and it is necessary to get rid of this problem first of all from this problem, and not just insulate the wall, then mineral wool is not the best choice. This material has a too high water treatment ratio.
2. Polyfoam is used both for internal and outdoor decoration. Moisture absorbs little, but has a low paropropsy ability and does not give air to circulate freely. When combustion, toxic substances will be released into the atmosphere.
3. "Warm plaster" is suitable for insulation of walls, both internal and from the outside. It has excellent sound insulation properties, does not absorb moisture, has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. The disadvantages of this material include a large mass, a layer of such plaster because of its gravity should not exceed 50 mm and requires the presence of an enhanced foundation for a private house.
4. Cork insulation is used for internal work. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is even lower than that of the "warm plaster", while the cork insulation has a small weight. It is convenient to use, perfectly suitable for the insulation of the wall, but it burns greatly.

Outdoor insulation of walls

If the house is private, then better work on the warming of the wet wall to spend outside, it will give the best result. To carry out these works, it is recommended to use foam, "warm" plaster.

• to begin with, the brick wall is cleaned from garbage, dust and dirt. Apply a layer of leveling plaster, then ground surface. It turns out a prepared basis for insulation. Foam sheets can be either glued or secured on the wall with a dowel;
• if glue is used, then each sheet of material is carefully processed with glue, then the sheet is attached to the wall and pressed. It is necessary to begin this work below, layers to lay in a checker manner, moving each stacked level relative to the previous one. The specified positions of foam sheets will help strengthen the strength of the structure;
• the glue is used and when fastening the sheets of dowels, only apply it to the foam point, better around the perimeter. Slightly gluing the material to the wall, the hole in which the dowel is inserted into it;
• after laying in one way or another method of all sheets, the design is fixed with the reinforcing grid, plastered. Wall insulation ends with decorative trim by painting or overlapping decorative plaster.

The easiest option with the outside is the use of "warm" plaster. After cleaning the treated surface, it is ground. A plaster mesh is attached to the wall and heat-insulating material is applied. After drying the "warm" plaster wall decorated with tiles, paint.

Inner insulation of walls

This is the best option for residents of an apartment building in the case when the wall will mock. Thermal insulation materials use a plug, mineral wool, foam, "warm" plaster.

The material is selected depending on the size of the wall, the financial capabilities of the room owners, as well as on the basis of safety reasons. From this point of view, the use of foam for insulation of the wall inside is undesirable, due to its high fire hazard.

The insulation of walls from the inside can be distributed into several stages:

1. Removal of wallpaper, cleaning walls from dirt.
2. Impregnation of the wall of the primer.
3. Placing a frame of metal or wooden plates. They need to be located at a distance from 40 to 60 cm from each other.
4. Laying the selected material. If necessary, sheets are cut off so that they are most suitable in the opening of the frame.
5. The lifting of the resulting design of plasterboard, plaster and final decorative wall decoration (wallpaper, painting).

Waterproofing plaster

You can prevent wetting wall at home with special drying plasters. This is a relatively simple and cheap way to significantly increase the waterproofing of the wall. You can use drying plasters both for internal and outer decoration.

The drying plaster material is mainly silicates, has a microporous structure. Such a structure does not allow the salts to penetrate the plaster, and crystallizes in the depths of the wall. Moisture due to this does not rise above the level of the wall, but its natural evaporation is not blocked.

• drying plaster can be applied to the old plaster, directly brick, mortar. This material can be used at any stage of the wall finish - with initial shockting, alignment of the wall, exclusively for waterproofing;
• before laying waterproofing plaster, you need to remove a wet layer of old plaster and about 50 cm of dry base. The surface under plastering should be smooth, without cracks and chips, stratification is not allowed.

The perfect base is clean and slightly rough. Before applying the surface is wetted with water or ground. Special plaster is stacked as common. The layer thickness is ranging from 2 to 4 cm.

The condition for using drying plaster should be the use of vapor-permeable decorative finishing materials, such as paper wallpaper, silicate tissues. In the processed room there must be good ventilation.

The problem of wet walls in the house must be taken very seriously, and if you run it, the consequences of this can be deplorable.

If the molding has already turned into the formation of mold, then the usual jumping out here is not to do, because after a short period of time it will rise again on the wall, whatever you have been treated. Here you have to look for other solutions, and specifically - get rid of moisture in the walls.

In order to find a solution to the problem, it is necessary to determine its source, and in a specific case, to find the reason for which the walls in the house sweat and wet.

Another important aspect to localize the moisture spot for the wall on the wall and do not give it to grow, can help several primitive measures. The first, it is necessary to remove all interference of air circulation in the place (curtains, rags, etc.), and then put the heater with a fan pointing to the spot (at least just a fan), so you will improve the situation slightly.

From which the walls in the house become wet and how to deal with it

First you need to determine the source of moisture. There may be several options, consider each separately.

1. Furgement of the outer wall of the house or apartment

This option is likely to relate to old houses, because before the construction only dreamed of construction during construction. Either during the construction of the house well saved on insulation, relying on a large number of batteries.

Signs: The house in the winter is constantly cold and raw. The walls indoors are very cold. Much energy goes to heating in winter.

Why is this happening: With severe frosts, the dew point in the wall passes closer to the room, and with insufficient heating, the wall begins to sweat. In this case, we need to shift the dew point closer to the street.

How to fix: In this case, you have two options, the first to warm the room, but these are additional cash spending in questionable benefit, and the second, it is necessary to insulate the walls of the house outside. To do this, you can try to insulate the walls with polystyrene foam, for example. In these circumstances, the thermal insulation of the wall inside the house will not help, but on the contrary - will aggravate the situation. The dew point, in this case, we will move even closer to the room. Moisture on the wall under the insulation will become even greater, and it will gradually turn into a puddle on the floor. Here can only help the outer insulation of the walls. Outdoor insulation, we will shift the dew point in the direction we need, as can be seen in the diagram. It is not very cheap, but it is reliable. And naturally follow the ventilation. Without ventilation wet walls can not be avoided.

2. Wall wet due to insufficient waterproofing

This option, in most cases, belongs to those who live on the last or first floors of the houses. If the wall is wet below, then the moisture can fall from the street through the base, through the floor, the basement, if there is insufficient waterproofing in those places. If the wall in the house wet or sweats upstairs, most likely, the moisture falls through poorly insulated from the water of the roof.

Signs: The most large spots on the walls in the fall, in crude weather, or in the spring, when it starts to melting snow. If the room is heated well, then at negative temperatures, wet spots will slowly dry.

Why is this happening: With poor-quality roof, water will always find a loophole and fall inside the room. And how is it rising upstairs with poor floorproofing floor? The fact is that whether it is concrete, a brick or a construction block, all these materials have a very bad property - to absorb moisture. The base, for example, can lift moisture from the ground almost per meter. That is why waterproofing between the wall of the house and the basement is so important.

How to fix: In this case, you have one. Find a place through which water gets inside on the wall, and make waterproofing better, or insulate outside the base, if it is in it. Inspection of the house from the street will give more results than the search for solutions from the inside. And of course, ventilation or frequent air ventilation in many cases will reduce the likelihood of problems with wet walls.

3. Bad ventilation of the room or its separate part

This is a very frequent phenomenon when ventilation in the house is not calculated enough, or works badly. Even if it is in good condition, there are still angles in the house in which it does not work, and they start sweat over time.

Signs: With a general problem with ventilation, strong fogging is possible. When local - wet the wall in the house behind the curtain, or for any objects that prevent air recirculation near the wall, and the rest of the walls are completely dry.

Why is this happening: With insufficient ventilation, whatever you do, the moisture will accumulate on the walls. In fact, moisture indoors abound for this, even if it seems that the air is dry.

How to fix: With the general problem with ventilation - it is necessary to solve it. Circulation in the house should be. With a local problem in certain places, remove interfering circulation objects.

4. Recently repaired

If you were all right before repair, and immediately after repair, suddenly the walls in the house wet, then there is nothing terrible here and this is a common phenomenon.

Signs: The windows in the house are very sweat.

Why is this happening: When you make a solid repair using stucco, putty or other materials, which includes water, the walls of this moisture are beginning to absorb and cannot be avoided. The repair is over, it seems to be dried, but moisture in the wall will remain for some time on some time. In addition to this, if during repair you have not sufficiently ventilated the room, the huge amount of moisture will be in the air.

How to fix: During the repair, it is necessary to air the room, and in the cold period it is also enough to heat. In this case, the walls will soon be dried.

Despite the fact that moisture has come from on the walls, you must remember that it is extremely not desirable to run this process, and the earlier you find the source of the problem, the easier it will be to correct the consequences.

Hello! In the fall bought a private house, made of bricks, the walls with a wedge with a grainsite. Now the temperature goes on the street - 17, the corners began to mock, viewed in the attic, there everything was covered with slag, what to do?

Galina, Kalachinsk.

Hi, Galina from Kalachinsk!

To answer your question, you should most thoroughly examine the house and reveal the root cause of the appearance of dampness.

Most likely your sellers - the owners of the house came across this problem, it would be good to ask them about it, if, of course, it is possible.

The causes of the appearance of dampness can be a big set. It is the penetration of moisture with the bottom of the walls, up to the foundation due to insufficient waterproofing, and even the complete absence of such. / Between the surface of the basement basement and the lower chain of the brickwork must be a layer from the frontieroid or its analogues. /

It is the leaks of rain moisture with its cluster in the clay frowning. And leakage can be both through brick masonry on loose seams, and with the roof of the house.

The variant of the insufficient thickness of the walls of the house is not excluded, which leads to their freezing and the formation of condensate with the appearance of water indoors at home. / So-called dew point. /

There may be other reasons. But the above are usually most likely.

What to do? The question is complex and depends on the revealed reasons first.

When the moisture penetration, through the bottom of the walls, it is necessary to try, which implies the installation between the walls and the adjoining hydrogenation of waterproofing. Almost this most often looks like a difuting of a small trench of a possible depth in this place (centimeters of about 30) and the installation vertically pair of rubberoid layers, and better glass amol. A good effect gives a promissory of vertical surfaces of the base of walls by primer, bituminous mastic. Starting from the very nose (from under the surface of the Earth and with elevation over it for several tens of centimeters.) This is done by the material heated to the highest possible state (so that the same mastic in the metal container begins to bubble from high temperature).

This minimizes the possibility of ferrous moisture revenues in the bottom walls.

Other questions on the topic of condensate formation.

Many have seen the effect overteaving windows In the house, in the apartment, in the car or how the walls wall. And asked themselves the question: why does this happen? This is based on a simple physical process - condensation, in particular, moisture from the air.
Although not only moisture can be condensed, but so far planets are also formed after the explosion of a supernova plasma. And this happens under certain conditions of temperature, pressure and humidity at the moment. First you need to clearly understand what is humidity.

We deal with air humidity.

Absolute humidity - This is the actual water content in grams in a vapor-shaped (gaseous) state in 1 cubic meter of air.

Maximum absolute humidity - This is the ability of the air to dissolve the greatest amount of moisture, it will be saturated. Under normal conditions, mainly depends on temperature.

air temperature	-30	-20	-10	0	10	20	30	40	50	60	100
maximum gram moisture content / m3	0.3	0.8	2	5	9.5	17	30	50	80	130	600

Relative humidity - This is the ratio of absolute to the maximum humidity, that is, it shows how much the steam is dissolved in the air, relative to the maximum possible content at this temperature.

And here you can make the main conclusions. When the street is minus -10 and the relative humidity of 50% is only 1 gram of steam in the air. In the house or apartment at air temperature plus + 20 and relative humidity 50% there are already 8 grams of steam in one cubic meter of air.

When carrying out the room, or simply through the ventilation, running such cold air into a warm house, it is mixed with warm and heated. But since there is no new moisture in it immediately, that is, we will take for example, we launched half of cold air, in which there will be about 5 grams of moisture, and it will warm up to 20 degrees - it means relative humidity in it will only be about 25% It is not suitable for a comfortable stay, as the air with such a small relative humidity will seek to select (evaporate) moisture from our mucous membranes, the nose and the throat will be sweeping, and the consequences arising.

Although in real conditions, due to the livelihoods and use of water in everyday life, when bathing, washing or cooking, there are water sources, the relative humidity will be 30% -40%.

And the inverse situation when warm air, for example +30 degrees with a relative humidity of 90%, i.e., almost 30 grams of steam are dissolved in it - it is dissolved with cold and also saturated air to 90% and is cooled to a temperature for example + 10, which can most Dissolve only 10 grams. That is all the rest of the moisture, that is, extra 20 grams will fall into the sediment. If this happens in the atmosphere - it rains.

Here are the main reasons why windows or a raw wall sweat.

The first and main reason - because they are cold! And of course, mainly throughout the house or apartment is only in the winter. The bulk of air in the room has a temperature of about 22 degrees and humidity 40%, that is, the moisture content in it is about 8 grams per 1 cubic meter. Cold walls, and even moreover, windows do not have perfect thermal insulation from the external environment. Therefore, when frost on the street in minus 20 degrees, the temperature of the window glass can be even below zero degrees. If the multi-chamber profile and the three-chamber windows, the temperature of their surface is unlikely to be higher than plus + 5 degrees.

Here is the room air, which due to the natural, comes into contact with the cold surface - it is sharply cooled, for example, up to 0 degrees. And at this temperature, the air physically cannot dissolve more than 5 grams of moisture, here is its residue of 3 grams and falls into the sediment - condenses on windows or walls and the effect of wetting is manifested, that is, the surface with such a low temperature lacks the fluctuations of molecules to push out moisture from yourself. And with intensive and constant condensation, the people say walls or windows cry.

The second and also important reason is too high humidity - more than 70% at high temperatures. For example, this occurs when you boil the water for a long time in the kitchen, or when you take a shower or a bath. Temperature can reach up to plus +40 degrees and humidity up to 100%. With such moisture and temperature, even the walls or windows with a street temperature + 20 degrees will be at the dew point. And therefore, pairs from the air on these surfaces will also be condensed. You can easily see such an effect on the mirror in the bathroom, or when just raise on the mirror.

The same thing happens with the window in the car. You get into the cold salon and begin to breathe, you can say, hot and very wet air from the lungs. Here is this moisture and settles on very cold windows in the car.

The third reason - I would call a hybrid. When the owners changed old wooden windows, on new plastic. Old wooden windows have gaps, they did not have hermetic double-glazed windows and therefore there was constant not controlled ventilation, which means there was always a low humidity in the house and a low temperature. From this window and did not stuff.

And putting new PVC windows that are very sealed, while the walls remained cold, and feeling that there were no warmer, people, due to banal savings and possibly poor ventilation, simply do not systematically do a systematically every room and do not use micro-ventilation which is possible in almost any PVC windows. From this moisture, it was not going to go, and in some rooms there was a constant high humidity, which condensed on cold glasses or walls, especially in the corners, where the lowered air exchange. And therefore, the conditions for stormy reproduction of the mold spawn germinated by fungus and corners or even all the walls began to black.

What you need, what would the windows do not sweat and do not black corners?

Events on the walls. First of all it is necessary to warm the whole house., layer of insulation is not less than 100 mm. For private houses with well-masonry - it is best to fill the air layer between the outer and the inner wall - .. this insulation has pores, which means there are vapors, which does not allow moisture to accumulate on the surface, unlike foam or polyurethane foam. In such a house there is enough ordinary ventilation.

For apartments, the most optimal option is an extruded foam, it is colored and much more expensive. It is best to glue it to an ideally smooth back surface, with the help of polyurethane glue, which is applied throughout the perimeter, and better area, whatever it fits tightly and there was no cracks between the wall and foam. And outside plastering it as much as possible, in several passes and each with a reinforcing wall, especially the sunny sides to protect against atmospheric phenomena.

Events around the windows. No matter how much cameras in a double-glazed window or in the windows profile, even with a maximum thickness of about 80 mm, they will not be able to insulate from the outside, like walls thick 500 mm! Why windows will always lose most heat, and more accurately cool.

The best option, even for new plastic windows - put two framesAs it was before, along the edges of the whole wall, so that the maximum possible air layer between hermetic windows. Better two windows with single-chamber windows, between which will be an additional 100 mm of air, and the total is about 200 mm, than one window with a five-chamber double-glazed window, a total thickness of 80 mm.

Another variant - establish modern shutters, and better insulated. Since in winter, the night is long, up to 16 hours, that is, we can on average for 10 hours a day to reduce thermal losses through windows, due to the additional air layer. The more insulated and sealed will be shutters, the better there will be an insulation of windows.

And the last option that is not very aesthetic, for that cheap and practical. , and better foamed polyethylene, which can be inserted outside between the glass profile of the frame.
To do this, you need to order more subtle sealing headquarters. In foamed polyethylene is very low, which means good thermal insulation. 8 mm thick it is comparable, and maybe better than an additional whole camera in a double-glazing!

If a sweats the window from the inside Or between Ramami means the tightness of the glass package was impaired. It can be attended to be stuck in the perimeter with a sealant, pre-dry in a warm dry room or replace the new one.

That's just such a house or apartment, allow without significant expenditures on heating, having warm walls and windows, on which condensate will not fall out and maintain with frequent ventilation or ventilation as much as possible humidity 50% - 60%